Thanks mate for all you help. Remember when you did the light changing video, I managed to change my ceiling rose to a nice chandelier. Once again thank you for all your help.
Absolutely amazing series! I started yesterday and watched whole thing through! Though.... Listening the same two songs throughout the series makes me want to throw my phone through the window!
Hi Pouse. Started watching your series a few days ago, very informative but wish I'd known about it months ago, when I started my own loft conversion. Thanks for reminder on smoke alarm :)
No worries, if you're doing it in compliance with the building regs then they will tell you everything you need to do to get it signed of. Best of luck with it.
Hi pouse, found this a thankless job when I did my dormer conversion myself last year, just seemed to go on and on, stair well, landing, bathroom and 2 bedrooms I also had to double up my boards. Thankfully all worth it in the end nice and warm in winter and cool in the summer.
Our spec on new builds now is 150mm pir, normally made up with 100mm in between and 50mm over the top. What weve started doing is 30mm in between and triso multi foil rolled insulation over the top with a 4"x1" cross batten. Actually works out cheaper per metre and is a cleaner tidier and far more enjoyable to work with. I cut the thinner pir with my track saw a vacuum so there's literally no dust and you don't get all that dust falling off them when you bang them in. Hope this may help someone
Whilst I may not always agree with your methods, I do admire your enthusiasm and stamina for taking on such a big job as well as being a family man! Question: Part P requirements for electrical work and how are you going to address it? Before being able to sign off this job with the inspectors, they will want to see your certificate. I imagine you will struggle to get an electrician to be prepared to sign off work you have done yourself, but I may be wrong.
I know an electrician who has a look before I cover the wiring up. Then he will test and inspect for me. I opted for this option in the building regs notification. You could of course pay a bit more to building control and they will send someone out to inspect the wiring. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
As Pouse has said, I did the exact same, did the 1st fix in my loft conversion and got a sparky to just issue a document saying it conforms to part P, then I did the 2nd fix and the sparky hooked up to the consumer unit and tested the final circuits. this is a completely legal option, but like you said a lot of sparkys don't like to do it because they have this moral high ground thinking that only they should do electrical work, when in reality the law only states that you have to be competent.
Fruit_Men - I guess it is more likely that they don’t want the responsibility that they are taking on, if they are not making much money out of doing it!
@@steves1460 It's that, the requirement to be Competent only is a red herring as the only way to adequately demonstrate competence is to complete your exams and be registered and insured.
Paul Rockliffe - agreed! I have electrical and electronic qualifications, but not the specific knowledge / experience to test the installation afterwards. I wouldn’t consider myself ‘competent’ and always get the sparky in for any work. I wouldn’t fancy proving competency to the insrance company if ever there was a major incident, regardless of whether electricity was the root-cause. Gives ‘em a way out! Even the simple jobs are left to the pros, albeit i slightly begrudge paying for it.
Great videos! How did you get ventilation into the dormer cheeks? I find so much conflicting information about this, some places say full fill and vapour barrier, others say air gap but don't detail where the air flow is coming from!
I didn't vent the cheeks, filled with insulation and overboarded with insulation. The insulation and tape on joints was my vapour barrier but best to check with your building control officer as recommendations change with time. I did this over 3 years ago. Best of luck.
Hi Pouse Yesterday I binged watched all of the loft conversion videos. How long as it taken you to build the conversion? Have you got a bank of video to sort through to make the series? Also when you finished the roof you should of "topping off" which mean having a beer to celebrate finishing it. But really enjoyed the videos nice and short and to the point! :)
Hi, loft isn't finished yet! But I have taken several months off at a time. I started 2 years ago. Just about to plaster the inside. I have a family and full time job so it takes a bit longer than I'd like. I have loads of footage I have to trawl through, takes a while hense delay in getting them out plus my channel is more than just loft conversion so I try to mix the vids up a bit. Thanks for watching!
What about cross ventilation? The last time I did one of these, to meet building regs we had to leave a minimum 30mm air gap between the back of the insulation board and the roofing felt to allow air movement around the roof timbers to prevent dry rot. We did this by nailing lats onto the side of the spars so that the thickness of the insulation was flush with the face of the spars. This means that there are no voids without air movements. I'd read up the current building regs before doing anything of this nature.
I did leave an air gap, I explained that in the video. I used screws to stop the board moving up where necessary but also used foam to bond it to the rafters. In an earlier video you will see I used fascia vents to allow the air to move into the void above the insulation. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I've been doing my insulation the last couple of months, I just about know what I'm doing, but tend to go over-kill in case I don't, so I've taped over the joists too for the full space-station effect. I've done 600m of tape now, but it is continuous electrically! I'm not going to earth it, there's no need as the wiring will be fixed, tested and plastered over. Though I should do as my hoover generates a huge amount of static electricity and I get a hell of a bang when I brush those boards when I'm hoovering up!
@@paulrockliffe2378 Taping over the joists is actually really good practice as it gives you an extra membrane and even helps with cross ventilation as there are no leaks between the joists.
There is one area where the regulations have relaxed. If you have earth leakage trips on your consumer unit, which you would be wise to do, then you do not need to earth extraneous metal all over the place, such as radiators. You do need to earth incoming gas and water pipes, unless plastic.
Another great video! you have a membrane between the insualtion and the roof? its obviously not going to be touching the backof the tiles directly? I know I asked you this on a previous video too
Great video Pouse, and advice. I have several questions hope you can help. My rafters are 100mm deep, do I need to purchase 100mm insulation board or 75mm? Do I need to leave a gap for air flow?
75mm so you can leave a 25mm air gap and it must be vented to provide airflow. If you have old bitumous roofing felt then you need to leave a 50mm gap. You can always get advice from your local building control officer in the council, mine were always happy to help. Best of luck with it.
I know this is an older video, but i am removing spray foam insulation from between my rafters because no lender will lend against it nowadays, does the same apply to the rigid foam you use ? and does this now prevent people getting mortgages and equity release when the surveyor can't see the state of the timbers as in my case
Hi mate, I'm not the OP, but I just saw your Q. How did you get on and did you get your answer from elsewhere? I'm wondering the same - if using foam as a filler for PIR gaps also qualifies as something the lenders don't like. Thanks.
I would check with your local building control. They often have their own set of rules. With cables you don't want to sandwich them between insulation as they could get too hot if under heavy load, so keeping them cool is always a good idea, but they might have a different suggestion. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Great video. Really enjoying the series as I’m on a similar job myself at the mo out of necessity. Quick question, is it definitely ok to drill through roof rafters? Are they the “same” as a ceiling joist for reg purposes? Ie between .25 and .4 and in the middle etc etc? Rafters are carrying loads more weight. It’d be great if I can otherwise I’ll be using miles if cable.
Hi Pouse, really great job as always mate, really inspired! Just wondering how long it’s taken and what you did about scaffolding, ie costs? I’m planning a conversion myself, do you just need to get building regs surveyors in to sign off the work as you go in stages? Any advice would be well appreciated! Cheers
Best speak to your building control officer. You can apply for a building notice or full application. I did a notice where you get them to inspect as you go along at your own pace. A full application requires full plans. Often builders take this route. But things change often so best check with your local authority. Scaffold I paid and kept it for a year bit I was lucky. Some people charge you rent. I paid a one off fee. Again prices vary according to what part of country you're in, how long you want it and how much you have. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
That’s brilliant thanks, your videos are really helpful, looking forward to seeing your finished extension, good luck!... Looks like you’re well beyond the worst of it now anyway! 👍🏻
Get an electrician to test and inspect. You could get building control to do it for a bit more money with your building application or notice. Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE do you think building control would accept just an EICR? I’m in the process of domestic installer but won’t be ready for my build sign off so wondering best way to go about it.
he would probably have to finish to give a good idea of price, every projects different and i know from experience that when you budget for a job it usualy goes out the window and costs more coz you come across things you didnt expect to happen lol
I did my loft conversion 100% DIY apart from Building control and Architect (Required costs) and the final cost was around £10k but that's with no additional dormers ect...
Very true. I'm near the end now but I'd have to go through my book and check price. I've been logging it all. But I've also painted house, re-slated whole roof, and done new soffets, facsias and the end roof of my house. I'll give a summary when loft is finished and explain all.
Depends on the additional size of the dormers you add. This one didn't need planning but you will need to comply with building regs if it is to be a 'habitable room'. If you go to www.planning.gov.uk all the info is there. Then speak to your local authority building control as they all have slightly different rules.
That figure was orinally introduced for use with existing bitument felts but if you use a good breathable membrane with suitable ventilation (I used fascia vents) it can be reduced. Always check with your building control officer, they can advise. Hope that helps.
Generally speaking, on old property in most local authorities building control will require you to use 100mm between rafters and 30mm over the top. You can use thicker over the top and less in between rafters but you would need to calculate the u values to meet building regs. However if you're not going through building control so it isn't an official habital room, then you can use what you like in theory. The important thing is to leave an air gap and ventilation between the insulation board and roofing membrane to avoid condensation build up which can in time rot the rafters. Hope that helps.
It's because the cost is completely different from month to month. It depends where you buy your materials, what tools you use, what the cost of timber is at any given time. To work out your cost you need a design, then you can price up all the materials you need. If your house is bigger it will cost more. I will give the cost of the build when it's all finished but until then I don't know myself unfortunately. Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE I have seen almost everything you put up. I like the way you speak and I can watch for hours especially in current situation. Kind regards.
Hi, would you like to test a tool like mobile endoscope camera, which can help people to view and check the hard-to-reach places like the nooks and crevices of your house, appliances, car, and more.
Youv'e got cold spots around all your down lights and that ridgid looks very thin for 150mm regs insulation, you don't need an air gap with breathable membrane!!🤔🤔🤔🤔
In other words, it would be extremely selfish of you to expire before this project is finished. A modern-day version of Mozart’s Requiem in D Minor no less!
POUSE around the HOUSE - personally I would’ve milked that for all it was worth i.e. build-up the tension towards the conclusion of your series! ‘Scripted reality’ and all that. If it’s good enough for the Kardashians.....
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks mate for all you help. Remember when you did the light changing video, I managed to change my ceiling rose to a nice chandelier. Once again thank you for all your help.
Nice work!
I love watching your videos, it's as raw as it gets. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely amazing series!
I started yesterday and watched whole thing through!
Though.... Listening the same two songs throughout the series makes me want to throw my phone through the window!
Thanks for the feedback, although there are more than two songs, same band though!
Hi Pouse. Started watching your series a few days ago, very informative but wish I'd known about it months ago, when I started my own loft conversion. Thanks for reminder on smoke alarm :)
No worries, if you're doing it in compliance with the building regs then they will tell you everything you need to do to get it signed of. Best of luck with it.
This is a job that I’ve been meaning to do for a while and your video has given me the motivation to crack on. Thank you 👍
Best of luck and invest in a good mask!
I’m a Paramedic by trade, so I got plenty of masks...
Hi pouse, found this a thankless job when I did my dormer conversion myself last year, just seemed to go on and on, stair well, landing, bathroom and 2 bedrooms I also had to double up my boards. Thankfully all worth it in the end nice and warm in winter and cool in the summer.
I hope it will be worth it in the end! Thanks for watching.
I can relate to your comments about fitting insulation being joyless. Messy too.
Indeed it is!
Great to see another loft video ... strange I was doing wiring for mine today too...!!
Best of luck with it and thanks again for watching!
Our spec on new builds now is 150mm pir, normally made up with 100mm in between and 50mm over the top.
What weve started doing is 30mm in between and triso multi foil rolled insulation over the top with a 4"x1" cross batten. Actually works out cheaper per metre and is a cleaner tidier and far more enjoyable to work with. I cut the thinner pir with my track saw a vacuum so there's literally no dust and you don't get all that dust falling off them when you bang them in. Hope this may help someone
Great tips there Ross, thanks for the feedback.
Great update. Good to see the progress. Hopefully you finished the build before the lockdown began - or can still get supplies! Cheers.
Inside almost finished but I stocked up 2 months ago! Thanks for watching.
Great job. Hope you guys down south are all safe.
Thanks. Keeping safe thanks. Same to you up North! Thanks for watching!
Nice work buddy 💪🏼😎👍🏼
Thank you Strongman!
Hi buddy loving your videos when will you be uploading the completed loft conversion?
Plenty more to come but it's just finding time to edit them. Hopefully one coming in next few weeks. Thanks for watching.
Whilst I may not always agree with your methods, I do admire your enthusiasm and stamina for taking on such a big job as well as being a family man!
Question: Part P requirements for electrical work and how are you going to address it? Before being able to sign off this job with the inspectors, they will want to see your certificate. I imagine you will struggle to get an electrician to be prepared to sign off work you have done yourself, but I may be wrong.
I know an electrician who has a look before I cover the wiring up. Then he will test and inspect for me. I opted for this option in the building regs notification. You could of course pay a bit more to building control and they will send someone out to inspect the wiring. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
As Pouse has said, I did the exact same, did the 1st fix in my loft conversion and got a sparky to just issue a document saying it conforms to part P, then I did the 2nd fix and the sparky hooked up to the consumer unit and tested the final circuits. this is a completely legal option, but like you said a lot of sparkys don't like to do it because they have this moral high ground thinking that only they should do electrical work, when in reality the law only states that you have to be competent.
Fruit_Men - I guess it is more likely that they don’t want the responsibility that they are taking on, if they are not making much money out of doing it!
@@steves1460 It's that, the requirement to be Competent only is a red herring as the only way to adequately demonstrate competence is to complete your exams and be registered and insured.
Paul Rockliffe - agreed! I have electrical and electronic qualifications, but not the specific knowledge / experience to test the installation afterwards. I wouldn’t consider myself ‘competent’ and always get the sparky in for any work. I wouldn’t fancy proving competency to the insrance company if ever there was a major incident, regardless of whether electricity was the root-cause. Gives ‘em a way out! Even the simple jobs are left to the pros, albeit i slightly begrudge paying for it.
Great videos! How did you get ventilation into the dormer cheeks? I find so much conflicting information about this, some places say full fill and vapour barrier, others say air gap but don't detail where the air flow is coming from!
I didn't vent the cheeks, filled with insulation and overboarded with insulation. The insulation and tape on joints was my vapour barrier but best to check with your building control officer as recommendations change with time. I did this over 3 years ago. Best of luck.
Hi Pouse Yesterday I binged watched all of the loft conversion videos. How long as it taken you to build the conversion? Have you got a bank of video to sort through to make the series? Also when you finished the roof you should of "topping off" which mean having a beer to celebrate finishing it. But really enjoyed the videos nice and short and to the point! :)
Hi, loft isn't finished yet! But I have taken several months off at a time. I started 2 years ago. Just about to plaster the inside. I have a family and full time job so it takes a bit longer than I'd like. I have loads of footage I have to trawl through, takes a while hense delay in getting them out plus my channel is more than just loft conversion so I try to mix the vids up a bit. Thanks for watching!
What about cross ventilation? The last time I did one of these, to meet building regs we had to leave a minimum 30mm air gap between the back of the insulation board and the roofing felt to allow air movement around the roof timbers to prevent dry rot. We did this by nailing lats onto the side of the spars so that the thickness of the insulation was flush with the face of the spars. This means that there are no voids without air movements. I'd read up the current building regs before doing anything of this nature.
I did leave an air gap, I explained that in the video. I used screws to stop the board moving up where necessary but also used foam to bond it to the rafters. In an earlier video you will see I used fascia vents to allow the air to move into the void above the insulation. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
I have always wondered if we should earth the foil on these boards in case a live wire came in contact with it....
Good point, although making sure the boards are all continuous would be one hell of a task! Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I've been doing my insulation the last couple of months, I just about know what I'm doing, but tend to go over-kill in case I don't, so I've taped over the joists too for the full space-station effect. I've done 600m of tape now, but it is continuous electrically! I'm not going to earth it, there's no need as the wiring will be fixed, tested and plastered over. Though I should do as my hoover generates a huge amount of static electricity and I get a hell of a bang when I brush those boards when I'm hoovering up!
@@paulrockliffe2378 Taping over the joists is actually really good practice as it gives you an extra membrane and even helps with cross ventilation as there are no leaks between the joists.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I was assuming if it was all foil tapped
There is one area where the regulations have relaxed. If you have earth leakage trips on your consumer unit, which you would be wise to do, then you do not need to earth extraneous metal all over the place, such as radiators. You do need to earth incoming gas and water pipes, unless plastic.
Another great video! you have a membrane between the insualtion and the roof? its obviously not going to be touching the backof the tiles directly? I know I asked you this on a previous video too
You put membrane over rafters, then battens, then slate to batten, so there's a minimum inch gap between slate and membrane. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE brilliant thats very helpful
I agree. Fitting any type of insulation is boring, joyless and most types are messy. But worth taking the time and care in the long term.
I agree. Thanks for the feedback.
Great video Pouse, and advice.
I have several questions hope you can help.
My rafters are 100mm deep, do I need to purchase 100mm insulation board or 75mm?
Do I need to leave a gap for air flow?
75mm so you can leave a 25mm air gap and it must be vented to provide airflow. If you have old bitumous roofing felt then you need to leave a 50mm gap. You can always get advice from your local building control officer in the council, mine were always happy to help. Best of luck with it.
I know this is an older video, but i am removing spray foam insulation from between my rafters because no lender will lend against it nowadays, does the same apply to the rigid foam you use ? and does this now prevent people getting mortgages and equity release when the surveyor can't see the state of the timbers as in my case
Hi mate, I'm not the OP, but I just saw your Q. How did you get on and did you get your answer from elsewhere? I'm wondering the same - if using foam as a filler for PIR gaps also qualifies as something the lenders don't like. Thanks.
@@TomaszRykala i have left it open for now.
Hi Pouse, Great series of videos! For building control is it ok to run the cables between the membrane and insulation?
I would check with your local building control. They often have their own set of rules. With cables you don't want to sandwich them between insulation as they could get too hot if under heavy load, so keeping them cool is always a good idea, but they might have a different suggestion. Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching.
Great video. Really enjoying the series as I’m on a similar job myself at the mo out of necessity. Quick question, is it definitely ok to drill through roof rafters? Are they the “same” as a ceiling joist for reg purposes? Ie between .25 and .4 and in the middle etc etc? Rafters are carrying loads more weight. It’d be great if I can otherwise I’ll be using miles if cable.
Hi Pouse, really great job as always mate, really inspired! Just wondering how long it’s taken and what you did about scaffolding, ie costs? I’m planning a conversion myself, do you just need to get building regs surveyors in to sign off the work as you go in stages? Any advice would be well appreciated! Cheers
Best speak to your building control officer. You can apply for a building notice or full application. I did a notice where you get them to inspect as you go along at your own pace. A full application requires full plans. Often builders take this route. But things change often so best check with your local authority. Scaffold I paid and kept it for a year bit I was lucky. Some people charge you rent. I paid a one off fee. Again prices vary according to what part of country you're in, how long you want it and how much you have. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
That’s brilliant thanks, your videos are really helpful, looking forward to seeing your finished extension, good luck!... Looks like you’re well beyond the worst of it now anyway! 👍🏻
Hi Pouse. When's the next installment in this series coming along?
It came out 2 days ago, hope you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
Great progress. What’s your plans to get the leccy signed off or are you self certified?
Get an electrician to test and inspect. You could get building control to do it for a bit more money with your building application or notice. Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE do you think building control would accept just an EICR? I’m in the process of domestic installer but won’t be ready for my build sign off so wondering best way to go about it.
@@zedman442 No, the EICR won't cover all the other bits and pieces like running cables only in safe zones.
Hi always enjoy your videos,how much would the material cost for a project like this?if you don't mind me asking
he would probably have to finish to give a good idea of price, every projects different and i know from experience that when you budget for a job it usualy goes out the window and costs more coz you come across things you didnt expect to happen lol
I did my loft conversion 100% DIY apart from Building control and Architect (Required costs) and the final cost was around £10k but that's with no additional dormers ect...
@@Daemiex thought so 👍
@@CucumberFanatic good on you👍👌
Very true. I'm near the end now but I'd have to go through my book and check price. I've been logging it all. But I've also painted house, re-slated whole roof, and done new soffets, facsias and the end roof of my house. I'll give a summary when loft is finished and explain all.
What size mm penny washers did you use Pouse? M6 25mm?
I think they were these - amzn.to/2PKabsN. Hope that helps.
What a fab video! I'm still not featuring though! Didn't I pass all that up for you?!!
Yes but you didn't let me film it as you were in a rush!
Is there not a number 28 onwards in the series as the loft ain’t completed ?
Correct! Plenty of footage, just have to edit it, so stay posted! I will show the full conversion. Thanks for watching.
How much did this all cost you?
And also have you finished your attic now?
Not finished yet. I'll do a summary when the loft is finished with costs etc.
Do you need planning permission for a build like this? in the UK, London to be specific. Thanks
Depends on the additional size of the dormers you add. This one didn't need planning but you will need to comply with building regs if it is to be a 'habitable room'. If you go to www.planning.gov.uk all the info is there. Then speak to your local authority building control as they all have slightly different rules.
POUSE around the HOUSE thanks for the information, keep up the good work 👍
What about your power boxes?
I made holes for the light cables as I fitted the insulation. Hope that helps.
I thought you were supposed to have a min of 50mm between the insulation and the breathable membrane.
That figure was orinally introduced for use with existing bitument felts but if you use a good breathable membrane with suitable ventilation (I used fascia vents) it can be reduced. Always check with your building control officer, they can advise. Hope that helps.
Can I ask what is the depth of the insulation you used in ur loft? thx for your videos (just liked and sub!)
Generally speaking, on old property in most local authorities building control will require you to use 100mm between rafters and 30mm over the top. You can use thicker over the top and less in between rafters but you would need to calculate the u values to meet building regs. However if you're not going through building control so it isn't an official habital room, then you can use what you like in theory. The important thing is to leave an air gap and ventilation between the insulation board and roofing membrane to avoid condensation build up which can in time rot the rafters. Hope that helps.
Great video, how much do you think it's cost you so far to build?
TheStressD he never reveals the cost its his secret. We're all here cuz be wanna save money dunno why he doesn't disclose cost
It's because the cost is completely different from month to month. It depends where you buy your materials, what tools you use, what the cost of timber is at any given time. To work out your cost you need a design, then you can price up all the materials you need. If your house is bigger it will cost more. I will give the cost of the build when it's all finished but until then I don't know myself unfortunately. Thanks for watching.
Can you please put more content out?
I keep trying but struggle for time. Feel free to browse my channel. Plenty more videos! Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE I have seen almost everything you put up. I like the way you speak and I can watch for hours especially in current situation. Kind regards.
Adam Jamro - ...and you have the added bonus of getting to watch it all come down again. Coming to a screen near you soon! ;-)
another good job and very informative.will you have a party when youve finished ?
I don't have the energy for a party!! Thanks for watching.
Hi, would you like to test a tool like mobile endoscope camera, which can help people to view and check the hard-to-reach places like the nooks and crevices of your house, appliances, car, and more.
Youv'e got cold spots around all your down lights and that ridgid looks very thin for 150mm regs insulation, you don't need an air gap with breathable membrane!!🤔🤔🤔🤔
Pouse that coughing sounded a touch like Covid, keep out of the Heath buddy we want to see the end of the project 🌈
In other words, it would be extremely selfish of you to expire before this project is finished. A modern-day version of Mozart’s Requiem in D Minor no less!
If you look at start of video it was November 2018 so not Covid just getting old and worn out....but I'm still standing in 2020! Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE - personally I would’ve milked that for all it was worth i.e. build-up the tension towards the conclusion of your series! ‘Scripted reality’ and all that. If it’s good enough for the Kardashians.....
Fake Covid
A better title would be ‘An exciting and informative man doing very boring jobs!’
Not sure about exciting.
theres no much head room