Dream job for sure 😁! Unfortunately at the age of 14 I couldn't afford to buy an RC, I had to wait until I got my first paycheck to buy one, and that's also 20 years ago ✌️
Absolutely! Always very fun. Next is the revo's force 28max. Its been a while since I ran that truck. I still have a bunch of brand new rtr engines, so more to come. Thanks for the comment ✌️
Perfect choice on the numbers brother . I wouldn't have touched the blow down on my first go round , 46 degrees she would have got on the pipe immediately. Second go around I'd shoot for 55-56 degrees... square or close to square buggy engines run reallll good there. Play with compression and plugs to get the Low end Back. She needs a different pipe to run proper temps ...a smaller stinger will help as well. Great job on the mods bro. Love the content !!!
Thank you! Yes she needs a few adjustments and tests with different pipes, the owner is thinking about buying a new one, I could try different timing, lower blowdown and close, higher open 🤔
@@TastyBRC id say keep same crank timing and leave blow down with a med/long manifold like OS 75 and 2035 evo 3 pipe or the old school killers 41031/9886 or 41005/9886-9853 . that setup would like vast array of pipes ...squarish engine tend to like a variety of but there is always the magic one
Excellent job my friend. Numbers are really good like this. Don't know the stock PHC, but i'm sure you can lower it. 0,05 or maybe 0,1 depending how it is now. Definitely try it considering the temps. She runs very good 👌 great vid buddy
Thank you Kings, yes Pedja installed a picco conrod wich is probably longer by .4mm, wich is a lot! I said probably.. the engine runs perfect with that conrod and I dont have the original one to compare. If I had another one of these, I would try a higher opening, lower closing and blowdown, that would probably fix the low end. Dyno will tell!
@@TastyBRC 0,4 is a lot. Measure the PHC. I was actually thinking the opposite. raise the closing. Seems rich in the bottom ( probably with a relatively big idle gap)(measure what it is now so you know) keep the open. Close at 70. Try a pipe like the 2108 with long manifold.
Very nice! She is a screamer 😊. Interesting on the crank having to be very as straight as you can get it and effecting tune. I don't really understand the number side of things but interesting anyway haha 😊
It's basically the same as the numbers for a camshaft for a 4 stroke engine. Except that you have to think about the fact that the a/f charge comes through the crankcase and up into the cylinder thru transfer ports under pressure from the piston descending, and the intake window timing controls when that pressure starts to build. The exhaust timing and overlap with the transfer ports mimics valve overlap in a 4 stroke, and MUCH consideration has to be taken into consideration with the exhausts system and pipe when it comes to this and the expected rpm powerband of the modded engine. There's quite a bit of black art involved when it comes to the exhaust side and pipe design when it comes to a 2t engine. All the reading in the world will only get you so far on this. It takes a bunch of real world experience along with it to fully understand what's happening here. I'm not an expert on that subject, but I'm learning.
I refueled once at 7', I think it can go up to 7'30" but not much more at least with this pipe (2135) so probably not the best option for a serious racer!
@@TastyBRC appreciate the response! After reading the timing numbers; how do you go about determining what numbers could be modified/improved? Do you just use comparison to similar, better running motors?
My theory is that On road engines are pushed to their limits so I could go as high in timing numbers as a onroad engine. By increasing all the numbers within the onroad engines limits, i can increase the power of any offroad engine, 100% sure (even if I never go that far). I dont know exactly how every number influences the powerband, I am just starting to understand..
Yes! Im not very good at making fangs 😆 Id rather ramp the ports, its just as effective imo, fangs bring minimal improvement, the crankshaft Windows modds make 90% of the power increase
Wow that thing screams 😃 that’s so cool 😅. You did a really god job on that One my man 👍 Could you share some info on the bits you Are using ? like where to get a set. Sounded like you did get a nice tune at the end there. Why do you think the temp Are so low ? Keep up the good job
Thank you! I guess that the temp is super low cause the engine is sucking more fuel than it should! All that fresh fuel cool it down.I noticed that all my modded engines run lower on temp. Most important is that it doesnt sounds rich and holds the idle very well Shearch on amzn dremel tungsten carbide bits
Bonjour Tasty B et merci pour cette video super instructive. Sur Imodel (hobbytech) j'ai trouvé un kit chemise piston 5 ports pour alpha club racer 21 à un prix défiant toute concurrence (32€). Comme hobbytech ne fait pas de moteur mais plutot du rebadging, et qu'ils sont distributeur des moteurs alpha, je me dit que ce hobbytech B213 est probablement un moteur alpha à la base. Penses tu que cela puisse être une bonne idée de remplacer la chemise 3 ports par le kit chemise piston Alpha club racer 5 ports pour avoir encore plus de Top end ?
Salut, merci pour le commentaire. Je ne pense pas que ces moteurs soient faits par Alpha, tous les Alpha et dérivés (Argus, Trackstar..) ont un bloc d'apparence identique. J'ai entendu dire que celui ci est fait par force, le carbu ressemble à un carbu force et à un diamètre de 14mm comme les force. Les Alpha ont un carbu de 14.5 comme tous les autres moteurs. Ce-ci dit.. le diamètre extérieur de la chemise est identique donc elle passe dans le bloc moteur. Il y a des chances que ça fonctionne.
@@TastyBRC Merci TastyB. Je vais finir le rodage et je testerai le changement de kit chemise à l'occasion. Si cela fonctionne, entre le moteur a 140€ et le kit chemise piston 5 ports à 32€ + les modifications sur le vilebrequin... it's a bargain ! . Si/quand tu le teste sur GT, ca promet d'être très intéressant.
Hey Tasty is there a way to communicate with you or to share videos with you or getting tipps etc but not facebook im not using it if you want i can drop my phone number here and maybe through whats app. IM JUST ASKING IF YOU SAY NO I CANT OR WHATEVER IM FINE WITH THAT
Nice man! Bought my first nitro at 14yrs old. 20 years later still a nitro guy. I wanna land a job as a nitro tech at a hobby shop would be my dream!
Dream job for sure 😁!
Unfortunately at the age of 14 I couldn't afford to buy an RC, I had to wait until I got my first paycheck to buy one, and that's also 20 years ago ✌️
Right on brother!
Dude😮 She is on Fire 🔥
- Nice work Tasty‼️
Completing mods and seeing how they turn out, Is always fun 💯
Absolutely! Always very fun. Next is the revo's force 28max. Its been a while since I ran that truck. I still have a bunch of brand new rtr engines, so more to come.
Thanks for the comment ✌️
❤amazing work mate 🎉
Your Awesome man !, Rex would be proud !
Thank you Texas 🙏
❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊. ไฟแอดพ์.
Perfect choice on the numbers brother . I wouldn't have touched the blow down on my first go round , 46 degrees she would have got on the pipe immediately. Second go around I'd shoot for 55-56 degrees... square or close to square buggy engines run reallll good there. Play with compression and plugs to get the Low end Back. She needs a different pipe to run proper temps ...a smaller stinger will help as well. Great job on the mods bro. Love the content !!!
Thank you! Yes she needs a few adjustments and tests with different pipes, the owner is thinking about buying a new one, I could try different timing, lower blowdown and close, higher open 🤔
@@TastyBRC id say keep same crank timing and leave blow down with a med/long manifold like OS 75 and 2035 evo 3 pipe or the old school killers 41031/9886 or 41005/9886-9853 . that setup would like vast array of pipes ...squarish engine tend to like a variety of but there is always the magic one
Amazing my friend. I've got to get better with engines
Thank you 👍
Excellent job my friend. Numbers are really good like this. Don't know the stock PHC, but i'm sure you can lower it. 0,05 or maybe 0,1 depending how it is now. Definitely try it considering the temps. She runs very good 👌 great vid buddy
I have puted a longer rod from picco p3tt so i think that this engine is already shimed good 😂
Thank you Kings, yes Pedja installed a picco conrod wich is probably longer by .4mm, wich is a lot! I said probably.. the engine runs perfect with that conrod and I dont have the original one to compare. If I had another one of these, I would try a higher opening, lower closing and blowdown, that would probably fix the low end. Dyno will tell!
@@stankovic7150😂 rascal
@@TastyBRC 0,4 is a lot. Measure the PHC.
I was actually thinking the opposite. raise the closing. Seems rich in the bottom ( probably with a relatively big idle gap)(measure what it is now so you know) keep the open. Close at 70. Try a pipe like the 2108 with long manifold.
Higher closing for extra bottom end? Yes .4 seems alors but unless I get a new conrod I cant be sure if is really different.
Il marche le hobbytech 😮 jolie boulot tasty
Merci! les modifications avec moi c'est toujours un peu la loterie 😅 mis cette fois c'est une réussite 😁
best job champ🤩👌
keep going
Thank you!
You got this engine man 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Very nice! She is a screamer 😊. Interesting on the crank having to be very as straight as you can get it and effecting tune. I don't really understand the number side of things but interesting anyway haha 😊
Thank you! I dont understand everything about these numbers either but Im learning, Kings and his dyno will reveal all the secrets of these numbers !
It's basically the same as the numbers for a camshaft for a 4 stroke engine.
Except that you have to think about the fact that the a/f charge comes through the crankcase and up into the cylinder thru transfer ports under pressure from the piston descending, and the intake window timing controls when that pressure starts to build. The exhaust timing and overlap with the transfer ports mimics valve overlap in a 4 stroke, and MUCH consideration has to be taken into consideration with the exhausts system and pipe when it comes to this and the expected rpm powerband of the modded engine. There's quite a bit of black art involved when it comes to the exhaust side and pipe design when it comes to a 2t engine. All the reading in the world will only get you so far on this. It takes a bunch of real world experience along with it to fully understand what's happening here. I'm not an expert on that subject, but I'm learning.
Right before you said it’s more of a top end engine, I was just thinking wow that thing has some legs. Nice “B”
Thank you 😁
That's badass
Novarossi heart 💥💥
great! what are the autonomies in this configuration? thanks
I refueled once at 7', I think it can go up to 7'30" but not much more at least with this pipe (2135) so probably not the best option for a serious racer!
Thanks for the reply! nice to see micromotors optimized for your needs.
Loving the videos! Very interested in the timing aspect of things! Where did you learn from? Any good you tube channels/videos on it?
Thank you 👍
Check Kings Rancing's channel, he made a couple videos on timing numbers ✌️
@@TastyBRC appreciate the response! After reading the timing numbers; how do you go about determining what numbers could be modified/improved? Do you just use comparison to similar, better running motors?
My theory is that On road engines are pushed to their limits so I could go as high in timing numbers as a onroad engine. By increasing all the numbers within the onroad engines limits, i can increase the power of any offroad engine, 100% sure (even if I never go that far). I dont know exactly how every number influences the powerband, I am just starting to understand..
Nice!
Thank you 👍
Wow Nice work dude as always! When we get the Video of the OS Max B21?
Thank you 👍 The B21 is ready, installed in the buggy, it should not be too long 🤔
Running very nice after the mods, any reason you didn't add any fangs to the ports.
Yes! Im not very good at making fangs 😆 Id rather ramp the ports, its just as effective imo, fangs bring minimal improvement, the crankshaft Windows modds make 90% of the power increase
Wow that thing screams 😃 that’s so cool 😅. You did a really god job on that One my man 👍
Could you share some info on the bits you Are using ? like where to get a set. Sounded like you did get a nice tune at the end there.
Why do you think the temp Are so low ?
Keep up the good job
Thank you!
I guess that the temp is super low cause the engine is sucking more fuel than it should! All that fresh fuel cool it down.I noticed that all my modded engines run lower on temp. Most important is that it doesnt sounds rich and holds the idle very well
Shearch on amzn dremel tungsten carbide bits
Tu n'as pas loupé ta modification contrairement à moi la semaine dernière...😆😉👍
J'ai eu de la chance, il marche bien!
Wicked 🇬🇧gonna mod mine
Up the compression remove a shim
It has a longer conrod, I cant remove a shim!
u definitely getting better at the cuts bro iam getting more confidence with the dremel myself lol 😅
Thank you John 😄
Good job! You created a wheelier😂
Almost 😁
Bonjour Tasty B et merci pour cette video super instructive. Sur Imodel (hobbytech) j'ai trouvé un kit chemise piston 5 ports pour alpha club racer 21 à un prix défiant toute concurrence (32€). Comme hobbytech ne fait pas de moteur mais plutot du rebadging, et qu'ils sont distributeur des moteurs alpha, je me dit que ce hobbytech B213 est probablement un moteur alpha à la base. Penses tu que cela puisse être une bonne idée de remplacer la chemise 3 ports par le kit chemise piston Alpha club racer 5 ports pour avoir encore plus de Top end ?
Salut, merci pour le commentaire.
Je ne pense pas que ces moteurs soient faits par Alpha, tous les Alpha et dérivés (Argus, Trackstar..) ont un bloc d'apparence identique. J'ai entendu dire que celui ci est fait par force, le carbu ressemble à un carbu force et à un diamètre de 14mm comme les force. Les Alpha ont un carbu de 14.5 comme tous les autres moteurs.
Ce-ci dit.. le diamètre extérieur de la chemise est identique donc elle passe dans le bloc moteur.
Il y a des chances que ça fonctionne.
@@TastyBRC Merci TastyB. Je vais finir le rodage et je testerai le changement de kit chemise à l'occasion. Si cela fonctionne, entre le moteur a 140€ et le kit chemise piston 5 ports à 32€ + les modifications sur le vilebrequin... it's a bargain ! . Si/quand tu le teste sur GT, ca promet d'être très intéressant.
❤
Kinda looks like a Force.
Great tips, I hope you are wearing breathing protection my friend.
It looks like a Force indeed, the carb is very similar to the force engines carb, 14mm. Thanks for the comment Todd
holy shhhhh, is this just 12% nitro as well?? nice
Yes 12%
@@TastyBRC thats unreal power for 12% on that engine wow
noice
Thank you 👍
@@TastyBRC you bring me back to that hobby mate
bell lavoro , ma il minimo non è stabile !
Hey Tasty is there a way to communicate with you or to share videos with you or getting tipps etc but not facebook im not using it if you want i can drop my phone number here and maybe through whats app. IM JUST ASKING IF YOU SAY NO I CANT OR WHATEVER IM FINE WITH THAT
Sure! Drop your Phone number here, I will add you on whtsap and delete the comment asap ✌️