Hello there fellow model makers. I know that the title of this video is slightly misleading. It should clarify that this is for airbrush beginners. However, I have since then put together a beginners' series for hand painting a kit as well. Please do check those videos out if you want to hand paint your kits: ruclips.net/video/8YBrTCtSTkI/видео.html This link is to the complete build. If you want a more in depth tutorial, I have a more detailed four part series from this same build. Hope that helps :)
You gave me an idea I had to try. I knew about some putties being soluble in either water or alcohol (isopropyl); having converted over to Tamiya Putty White and Crazy Glue from Testors filler years ago I wasn't able to use this technique. Watching your video I decided to give my old Testors filler a try on an old Revell Spitfire Mk.II, first with water, then with alcohol. Water is a no go. It just clumps up the filler. Alcohol, on the other hand, with a couple of Q-tips cleaned it right up, leaving a smooth finish behind. There are two important points however. First, you have to do follow up coats of filler to make sure the surfaces are flush as the Q-tips remove some of the filler out as you wipe it up. Second, you do have to spend some time with either more Q-tips or a paper towel dampened with more alcohol to clean up the surrounding area as the filler gets spread out as you mop it up. The end result is beautiful however. NO SANDING! NO DETAIL LOST! Just clean up with an alcohol moistened Q-tip, fill then clean up again and again to completely filled and smooth. Thanks for giving me the idea to try this out. Anyone with a tube of old Testers filler has to try this!!!
I try and avoid sanding as much as I can. Although sometimes one has to, specially when the surfaces are uneven. But cleaning putty with water/alcohol is much much better. But you are right, I also have to go over a gap a couple of times or more till it fills up evenly. Thanks for the comment KEM, please do keep sharing and commenting. Good luck with your build :)
Stynylrez by Badger is a fantastic Acrylic based primer that is becoming very popular with modellers. If you haven't tried it yet, I highly recommend it.
Please, tell more about surfacer. How you use different types 500, 1000, 1500? And main - what thinner do you use for it on airbrush? What nozzile do you using to this primer? And what you use after it to clean airbrush from surfacer? I am use chep auto primers, but want to try surfacer.
Hi Val. I use 500 for filling fine gaps in the kit. I use an old brush and apply it in the gap like putty. Once it dries I sand away for smooth finish. Keep in mind that Mr. Surfacer shrinks after such an application (as do several putties) so you must wait for no less that 24 hours to check shrinkage and then sand. 1000 and 1500 I use both as surface primers. The nozzle size I usually use is .3 mm. This gives me a wide even spread. Also, I use general purpose thinner which I get from any hardware store. I had to experiment a little before settling in for a thinner. I use the same thinner to flush the airbrush. You can also give acrylic paints a try as a primer. I have used acrylics on several occasions with good results. Hope this info helps.
Is this thinner on isopropanol base or on laquer base? How do you think, may I thin it, let's say, vodka?)) (I thin tamya and gunze acrilic paynts by vodka, it's cheaper then original thinner)
Acrylic paints are water based and hence disolve in water and alcohol. These primers will NOT disolve in water or alcohol. What you will get is a stringy mass that will clog your airbrush (yes I have tried...lol). You need an NC (nitro cellulose) thinner. You can get NC thinner easily in any hardware shop. Keep in mind another commonly used thinner is GP or General Purpose thinner, this doesn't work. Just buy some NC thinner and it will work just fine with Mr. Surfacer.
Also, please be careful with NC thinner. It is toxic and inflammable. Use in well ventilated area and use a mask. Best is to take it outside. Do not spray for prolonged periods. And keep far far away from children or from anyone who doesn't know what it is.
Yes I do. As primers and paints sit on the shelf they sometimes tend to get thick. So, it is advisable to check the consistency of the paint in the bottle and then add thinner accordingly. Hope that helps :)
Hello there fellow model makers. I know that the title of this video is slightly misleading. It should clarify that this is for airbrush beginners. However, I have since then put together a beginners' series for hand painting a kit as well. Please do check those videos out if you want to hand paint your kits:
ruclips.net/video/8YBrTCtSTkI/видео.html
This link is to the complete build. If you want a more in depth tutorial, I have a more detailed four part series from this same build. Hope that helps :)
Awesome video! Awesome music! Awesome build
Thanks a lot John very kind of you :)
You gave me an idea I had to try. I knew about some putties being soluble in either water or alcohol (isopropyl); having converted over to Tamiya Putty White and Crazy Glue from Testors filler years ago I wasn't able to use this technique. Watching your video I decided to give my old Testors filler a try on an old Revell Spitfire Mk.II, first with water, then with alcohol.
Water is a no go. It just clumps up the filler.
Alcohol, on the other hand, with a couple of Q-tips cleaned it right up, leaving a smooth finish behind. There are two important points however. First, you have to do follow up coats of filler to make sure the surfaces are flush as the Q-tips remove some of the filler out as you wipe it up. Second, you do have to spend some time with either more Q-tips or a paper towel dampened with more alcohol to clean up the surrounding area as the filler gets spread out as you mop it up.
The end result is beautiful however. NO SANDING! NO DETAIL LOST! Just clean up with an alcohol moistened Q-tip, fill then clean up again and again to completely filled and smooth.
Thanks for giving me the idea to try this out. Anyone with a tube of old Testers filler has to try this!!!
I try and avoid sanding as much as I can. Although sometimes one has to, specially when the surfaces are uneven. But cleaning putty with water/alcohol is much much better. But you are right, I also have to go over a gap a couple of times or more till it fills up evenly. Thanks for the comment KEM, please do keep sharing and commenting. Good luck with your build :)
KEM451 what is a Q-tip?
Stynylrez by Badger is a fantastic Acrylic based primer that is becoming very popular with modellers. If you haven't tried it yet, I highly recommend it.
Nice tip on buying liquid mask in the form of a general art mask. Can save a lot on money with that. Thanks!!! : )
The correct colour application is Dark Green over Ocean Grey (Ocean Grey first, then D. Green), not the way you painted it.
Please, tell more about surfacer. How you use different types 500, 1000, 1500? And main - what thinner do you use for it on airbrush? What nozzile do you using to this primer? And what you use after it to clean airbrush from surfacer?
I am use chep auto primers, but want to try surfacer.
Hi Val. I use 500 for filling fine gaps in the kit. I use an old brush and apply it in the gap like putty. Once it dries I sand away for smooth finish. Keep in mind that Mr. Surfacer shrinks after such an application (as do several putties) so you must wait for no less that 24 hours to check shrinkage and then sand. 1000 and 1500 I use both as surface primers. The nozzle size I usually use is .3 mm. This gives me a wide even spread. Also, I use general purpose thinner which I get from any hardware store. I had to experiment a little before settling in for a thinner. I use the same thinner to flush the airbrush. You can also give acrylic paints a try as a primer. I have used acrylics on several occasions with good results. Hope this info helps.
Is this thinner on isopropanol base or on laquer base? How do you think, may I thin it, let's say, vodka?))
(I thin tamya and gunze acrilic paynts by vodka, it's cheaper then original thinner)
Acrylic paints are water based and hence disolve in water and alcohol. These primers will NOT disolve in water or alcohol. What you will get is a stringy mass that will clog your airbrush (yes I have tried...lol). You need an NC (nitro cellulose) thinner. You can get NC thinner easily in any hardware shop. Keep in mind another commonly used thinner is GP or General Purpose thinner, this doesn't work. Just buy some NC thinner and it will work just fine with Mr. Surfacer.
Also, please be careful with NC thinner. It is toxic and inflammable. Use in well ventilated area and use a mask. Best is to take it outside. Do not spray for prolonged periods. And keep far far away from children or from anyone who doesn't know what it is.
Thank you! ))
I'll try to begin with 1000 and gunze leveling thinner.
Question, do you apply a few drops of thinner to the primer in an airbrush?
Yes I do. As primers and paints sit on the shelf they sometimes tend to get thick. So, it is advisable to check the consistency of the paint in the bottle and then add thinner accordingly. Hope that helps :)
What airbrush system do you recommend?
that music !!!!!!