Can we talk about how cute the model truck and trailer on the treadmill was? Not only a great illustration of the topic, but really well made!! Well done.
This video should be. REQUIRED VIEWING for each person who purchases a travel trailer. And a discussion afterwards should be had also. The tapping of the in cab brake control and the explanation of the trailer TRAVELING FASTER THAN THE TRUCK is a crucial part of what is happening. Thank you sir. !
I destroyed my entire rig in 2022 due to trailer sway started by starting to pass a big rig. I thought I had done a good job loading,balancing, and using weight dist/anti sway bars. I even made sure my truck didn't squat more than half an inch and the trailer was perfectly level. At the time of the wreck I was well under the speed limit. We went from no problem to upside down on the road in less than 5 seconds. Here's my point--- the more sure you are this could never happen to you, the more you should think twice.
@@kevkamo6289probably limiting his squat to half an inch which means not enough tongue weight. Sway happens when you don’t have enough tongue weight or when the trailer wants to go faster than the tow vehicle. In which case you just manually squeeze the trailer brake controller for a second
That sounds horrifying! So what caused your wreck? If you had properly configured WDH, anti-sway, loading etc, what else can you do? Were you over weight for your truck? Was there a tire blowout? A slightly unbalanced weight isn't going to put you upside down towing a properly attached trailer with all those precautions.
@@jabroni6199 That's a good point. Glad I researched all of this. I bet a lot of people think reducing hitch weight is always a good thing when in fact it isn't. A "good" hitch weight is more of a window of between x lbs and x lbs, not a lower is better thing.
Weight distribution bars are a double edge sword 🗡️. They transfer weight to the front axle 100lb in my case but by doing so they stress the frame...more weight you transfer more stress on the frame.
Stress on the tv frame or trailer frame? My VW Touareg manual states not to use weight distribution as it will stress the cars frame which is why I don't use a weight distribution hitch.
Load toward the front - as much as tongue weight capacity will allow - and slow down. If you think you are going slow enough, maybe slow down another one or two mph.
Interesting video, I recently bought a F250 and a toy hauler travel trailer with a dry weight of 6200# and went to the CAT scale to see that the loaded trailer is 6950# (I don’t have toys) I also don’t exceed 65 mph and usually set my cruise control at 60mph. I am always shocked to see how many people pass me going 70+ with their travel trailer or 5th wheel and get a chuckle when I pass them as they blew out a tire.
Hensley Hitch - stopped sway completely on our 31' travel trailer. I don't know why aren't more common. They're amazing. We would never have kept the RV otherwise.
I went with ProPride 3P and glad I did. I have been looking at Hensley for 5 years as we planned our retirement. We should do reviews every 3 years for people to know the diference
Thanks for the video. As a new RV'er in 2021, I used a CAT scale to make sure I was loaded within all limits. I also used an Equalizer WDH similar to yours. I tow my 21' Jayco SLX 195RB trailer at no more than 60mph (95km/h) using my Nissan pathfinder. However I did find over the first 10000 miles (from Alberta to Newfoundland and back plus other trips) the A frame of my trailer gradually bent upwards! I am not sure but I put this down to the force exerted on the A frame by the Equalizer WDH system. I had to get the frame made horizontal again and had some additional strengthening welded on. Since then I have discontinued using the WDH with no issues despite towing my trailer more than 5,000 miles since then. The problem may have been the WDH or the flimsy trailer frame by Jayco but the issue is no longer a concern. Outside the scope of this video but I thought I'd comment anyway in case you have any thoughts or relevant experience of trailer frames bending? The safest thing is to slow down and load correctly.
Thanks for sharing this really important information about the sway bar and breaking the trailer when the trailer starts to sway, very interesting video have a blessed day😊
In addition to friction, another thing that helps is proper tires that resist side-flex. I just bought from a Ford dealer a 2021 F-150. Dealer had put new tires on it. Car tires with maximum pressure 44 PSI. First thing I changed was to put Load Range E tires on it the truck. I tow with 80 PSI in my rear tires. Interestingly, my 8.1 suburban came from the factory with Load Range E tires. The Chev door-sticker actually specified 50 PSI front, 80 PSI rear. (Of course, medium-duty motorhome runs 95 PSI all around.)
Your two weights are correct in that the vehicle axle weights should a 740 lb difference between the first two weighs. A third weigh with weight distribution engaged would show weight transferred to the trailer axle and weight restored to the front axle. Based on the Ford owners manual, you want 50% of the weight restored to the front which would make your front axle at least 3100 lbs. Take the combined weight of the vehicle axles from the third weigh of the vehicle and subtract the first weight of the vehicle combined axle weight and you get the ‘distributed’ tongue weight which will be less than 740 lbs to the tow vehicle. The third weigh vehicle axle weights (weight distribution engaged) subtracted from the tow vehicle gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) will give you the available payload. The key is to not over load the tow vehicle axles along with not exceeding the tow vehicle GVWR Make sense?
NEVER hit your brakes if a trailer starts swaying. Let the rig slow down on its own. Also, don’t go cheap on tires, you want 8-10 ply or higher. I’ve towed a saltwater boat around the southeast for the last 20 years. When I wasn’t doing that, I was running a lawn and landscape company towing trailers full of gravel, dirt, sod, mulch, and heavy equipment.
Im a new camper owner and im towing a smaller 22 footer with a 2023 Tacoma trd. I got the weight distribution hitch with sway bars and I've been told that given my small setup not to worry but im such a novice I still cant help but imagine im going to fly off the road with my family in it. This video was immensely helpful and although it doesnt necessarily ease my mind, I at least know what to look for now and how to better prepare with each trip. Thank you!
I feel you there. I'm in a 3rd Gen taco, too. Towing a 6x12 dual axle with added height and definitely a little nervous for our maiden voyage. Manual states sway bar over 2000lbs and hitch distribution over 5,000. Going to start with the sway bar and see how the tongue sits loaded.
I've been towing a 23 ft jayco recently with my 20/20 Taco off-road. I've got some research to do. Driving on the highway is an absolute nightmare when trucks pass. First they suck you in and then they blow you out. If you don't time your steering adjustment well enough you feel like you would certainly lose control. I'm sticking to the side roads for now and maximum speed of 50 mph.
@@CaseyQ I do indeed have a weight distribution hitch that was provided by the seller along with the camper. I suppose I'll have it gone over by a professional to make sure I'm doing everything correctly
Weight to front, tap brakes to slow sway, tiny steering corrections, let vehicle just coast no gas, to regain control. Speed increases steering corrections, stay around 55 or 60 tops.
Whoa! Without the WDH the hitch weight went all to the rear axle (note that the front truck axle DECREASED from 3260# to 2940# and the rear truck axle INCREASED from 2540# to 3600#). This means that your truck had significant squat when weighed. I don't, however, think that the math in calculating the hitch weight would've changed since I believe that the WDH merely levers the weight from the truck's rear axle to the front axle. Just something to watch when you use a CAT -- a secondary benefit with the WDH attached allows you to determine whether or not the WDH is set up correctly (i.e. the hitch weight is equally distributed). If the CAT tells you that the front axle's weight increased by half that of the rear axle, an adjustment of the WDH might be suggested.
Here is a tip for all. If your factory frame hitch has been on for years use a probe camera to inspect the inside of cross bar(if ends are open like on my Super Duty.) Rust never sleeps. I Was 100 miles out on a 1200 mile trip when for no good reason I thought I would pull in to a rest stop jusr to make sure all was ok with my bew 16 ft. Enclosed trailer. I freaked out when I noticed the trailer was 4 inches from the ground and the ball on hitch was pointing to about 2:00 O'clock! The frame had rusted to the point where it just twisted down. Talk about lucky. New draw tight on the way. Condensation alone can cause rust on unprotected metal. New hitch is powder coated but I will be monitoring the inside of the cross bar for sure. Also ordered a tongue weight pole scale.
I use vectors to calculate the pin weight. I have confirmed my calculation works by measuring the pin weight on a Catscale. So now that I know my vector system works I can move the load around as needed. I no longer needn to use a catscale much now I just calculate things. A vector is a mathmatical thing composed of two values, in this case it is the weight of something and its place's distance from the pivot point. I give vectors behind the pivot point a negative value because they subtract from the pin weight. Multiply the two values together and add that product to the pin weight to see how it changes.
I’ve found the cam-style anti-sway devices to work better than the friction based ones. They won’t completely eliminate sway like a ProPride would - you’ll still feel that initial “woosh” when strong turbulent forces hit the side of the RV (and if you’re like me, your heart will jump out of your chest). But immediately afterwards, it goes back to center. I’ve driven through gale force winds that would otherwise have sent us into a sway-tastrophy.
The recommended Nose Weight (Tongue or Hitch Weight), was a rule of thumb guidance here in the UK, but it used to be between 5 to 7% of the MTPLM (Laden Trailer Weight). That was before EU Type Approval, for example pre-Type Approval, a manufacturer would make a recommendation, and it was up to the Owner whether they followed it. So my 1973 VW 412LS Variant (Station Wagon), is 1120kg Kerb Weight (fuel/oil/water and a Driver included), with a max Laden Weight of 1665kg, and VW recommended a maximum Towing Capacity of 900kg, with a Drawbar (Hitch Weight) on the tow bar of 50kg maximum. Which meant the Nose Weight (Tongue Weight) had to be no greater than 50kg. You decided whether to take the risk of going beyond those weights. The Caravan Club decided to introduce Guidance as well, called the 85% Rule, and 100% Rule. Again, not the Law. The 85% Rule was for new drivers to towing, and the 100% Rule was for experienced drivers of towing, they decided that the fully laden caravan had be a percentage of the Kerb Weight, so 85% of 1120kg is 952kg, with some leeway on the Nose Weight of between 5 to 7%. Neither matters with regard to the VW recommended 900kg though. The experienced were recommended up to 1120kg. However, even though we have left the EU, we still have Type Approval in Law for newer cars, and my 2018 Toyota Avensis Estate (Station Wagon) has figures for max Laden Weight of 2100kg, max Goods Train Weight of 3900kg, giving a max Towing Capacity of 500kg/1800kg (unbraked/braked), and a Drawbar of 75kg max, all legally enforceable. The now Caravan & Motorhome Club still recommends the 85% Rule & 100% Rule, again not enforceable, and still suggests a Nose Weight of between 5 to 7%. Note that they no longer state a Kerb Weight as above. However, trailer/caravan standards are also now Type Approved, with my 2008 Swift Ace Celebration 620 being plated these days 1450kg MRO (Mass in Running Order), full gas bottles but no water on-board, and a 1700kg MTPLM (Maximum Technically Permissible Laden Mass), which means I have a maximum legal user Payload of 250kg, including water. Oh and the maximum Nose Weight of the caravan is 100kg, although this last figure not legally enforced, except in mitigation arguments in Court when apportioning blame to serious accidents, and also by Loss Adjusters in Insurance Claims. Under the Law they use Max Laden Weight, Goods Train Weight, and MTPLM, rendering the 85% Rule, 100% Rule, and 5 to 7% Nose Weight guidance all just hearsay. However, back before Type Approval there were no passive Hitch Stabilisers (the industry standard here is the passive ALKO AKS 3004 Stabiliser), and no active Automatic Trailer Control (the active electronically controlled ALKO ATS Anti-sway Trailer System is the best on the market here), on trailers/caravans, and cars did not have Anti-skid Braking Systems (ABS), or Electronic Stability Control (ESC), indeed, there were most likely drum brakes, and tyre technology and roadworthiness legislation (UK is MoT, Europe is TuV, both now compulsory annual tests), for tow vehicles and trailers/caravans were less developed, or strict. These Laws are pretty much standard across Europe, whether your country is an EU Member State, or not.
I pull with a Ford truck, would think the other US makers would as well, but the towing package has anti sway built in. It’s better suspension plus electronic monitoring that will apply trailer brakes if sway is detected. I’ve pulled with an Expedition, a suv, but it had a heavy tow package as well, never had a problem. People if you are going to tow, don’t just slap a hitch on a vehicle, get one with a towing package and know the parameters of your vehicle.
I have F250, bought a 27' travel trailer. Camping World automatically sold me the stabilizer hitch. The truck doesn't even squat a little when hooked up. They told me to turn the sway control off on the truck since the hitch is supposed to prevent sway. The trailer does sway more than I like, probably not too dangerous, but it's stressful driving. I think I will try towing with the sway control turned on.
f250 in the last 10 years should handle that trailer without the stabilizer hitch. Your truck should squat when towing to a certain degree as having the proper tongue weight is key to reducing sway. I agree you should leave the sway control on truck on. Its a smart system and controls the sway in different manner than the WDH (really it only kicks in when its serious and way beyond the WDH stopping it). I recommend finding a scale to make sure you have the proper tongue weight in ratio with your trailers overall weight. My suspicion is that you WDH is transferring too much weight off the back which will lead to sway. Perhaps re-adjusting it or try towing without it all together to see if it gets any better.
Good content, nice job! My only issue is with the background music, it's a little annoying. I felt like I was watching an HR video welcoming me to my new company and it was distracting. I get the need for it, maybe just turn it down from 11 to 2. Thanks for putting it together. Everyone needs to see this information before packing for their first trip. Especially the part about slowing down. I do not understand why people are in a hurry towing an RV. There is nothing fast or quick when it comes to an RV trip. Take your time and enjoy the trip!
I'm glad these videos exist 'cause I'm a bit paranoid about going out on my first camping trip. Luckily it's very local so I won't need to drive on the freeway at all. But I'm getting a WDH with sway bars installed regardless.
I noticed on the three clips (at the very start of the video) that the axels are mid-location on the coach. That (combined with an undersized tow vehicle and imbalanced load) seems to exasperate the problem.
They make some great hydraulic devices that are small and you can pack with you to place underneath your trailer ball receiver and drop the weight of the tongue on to, to check your tongue weight. I tow a triple axle bumper pull toy hauler every summer and between the water tanks up front, the gas tanks in the rear, the grey/black water tanks, and the cargo, the weight distribution can change dramatically. These little devices are fantastic whenever you may be in doubt. Having said that, when you pull larger rigs, even well stabilized and in good weather, anytime something with a large box passes you, you are going to feel that sway as the vehicle starts to overtake you. At that point it will be the worst, so keep an eye on your rear view mirrors and don't let it take you by surprise.
Great information but I would also add to the mix, 1) tyre pressures for both tow vehicle and trailer must be at maximum for the load and speed, check the placard and then adjust pressures to suit the loads you have increased by adding things. 2) Remember, the wheels on the trailer are to carry the load of the trailer, the tow vehicle is not there to 'carry' that load, it is there to pull the load and stabilize any instability in the system, most countries require a minimum % tow hitch load for stability not a maximum. 3) Heavy things should be in the centre of the trailer and as low down as possible.
Equalizer hitches aren't there to stop sway that's the job of a sway bar that use's friction to stop left and right movement. A equalizer hitch takes the tongue weight and tranfers it to the front of the truck and to the trailer axles.
@@jerrytalley802 Right. I have 20' enclosed car trailer. With a car in it, I expect it weighs about 6,000 pounds I don't use an equalizer. I do use a friction snubber when towing with my motorhome, as the overhang it is huge, and there is no aerodynamic drag on the trailer. I tended not to need it when towing with my 8.1 suburban, since the overhang is less and there is plenty of aerodynamic drag on the trailer. I retired the Suburban and now have an F-150 SuperCrew shortbox. The F-150 has longer wheelbase and shorter overhang than the Suburban, so I expect it will tow better.
If you have a properly rated tow vehicle, your WDH is correctly adjusted and you observe weight and balance in your RV you won't need the sway control.
Exceptionally informative. I agree with you that your second weighing can be with or without weight distribution. Ideally both is nice to have simply as you also get to see how much weight your hitch is actually distributing to your front axles. I only did mine with the bars attached, but still the same math to see how much of the added weight is on the truck. I notice that your front axle weight without wd was down 300ish pounds. I also tow with an F150 and tow a trailer that is somewhat heavier at a total of 7940. 6800 of that on my trailer axle and obviously the other 1140 on my truck, which is right around 14% of 7980 so that part is good. With my weight distribution hitch attached I am able to bring my front axle weight right back to its just the truck weight, thus ensuring that neither my front axle, rear axle or trailer axle is overloaded, and with the weight returned to the front axle handling is actually quite amazing. No sway at all it seems, and I have towed this set up for about 28000kms ( about 17350 miles). it would be interesting to see what your weights are like with the wdh fully set up, for the knowledge of how much weight you are managing to distribute to the front axle. Safe travels.....
Thanks so much for watching our video and sharing your thoughts. With the wdh fully set up, the steer axle is about 180 lbs lighter than the truck when not towing. You’ve got me thinking I should adjust the hitch to throw more of the weight on the front axles. Thanks again for your input. ~Two Traveling Teachers
@@TwoTravelingTeachers I have found that set up to work the best. My original target had been to get my front fenders back to the same height off the ground with the trailer as they were without the trailer, thinking that if they were lifted at all then clearly they must be lighter, as things don't go up when they are heavier, and sure enough when the front fenders are basically back to starting point, or maybe an 1/8" lower, then the CAT scale confirms that I have kept my weight on the front axle which is great for handling. My F150 when loaded for travel but without the trailer (wife included....even though she was not that keen on multiple CAT scale passes) actually has the front axle loaded to within a few hundred pounds of axle capacity anyway, so I did not want to add too much weight there, but it handles superb when I can set up the hitch to basically not remove any weight from the front of the truck either. If you do decide to experiment, I would be very interested to hear how you make out with it. take care.
I am a scale technician by trade. Most scale companies and including state weights and measures test truck scales with at least 12.5% of scale capacity. But usually, use around 21000l to 30,000lb of combined buggy and test weights. So at 25,000lb, a scale has a tolerance of +/- 60lb
I would just add that when you squeeze that brake controller, keep your foot steady on the gas pedal because people will tend to let off on the gas without realizing it because they're focused on the trailer, which has almost the same bad effect as stepping on the brakes would.
Been a truck driver for 20 years. All good points, also fun to see the frame rate of your camera reflected in the wheels of that pete at the end of the video. guessing 60?
Very good presentation. Me personally was getting tired to drive like a truckdriver with all those big weights behind me . Sold it all and now have a teardrop trailer. There is nothing to it. Although I still apply the 10-15% rule. Habits I guess.
Here is a way to buy something to weigh your trailer tongue weight and still be buying tools to use for other applications, #1 is a "high lift" bumper style jack, #2 is a hanging scale big enough for your tongue weight, place the bumper jack in front and above your trailer tongue with the scale hanging off of the jack, I think you get the point.
Maybe walked right over it, but before hitting the road, proper tire pressure, ckecked w/a good tire gauge, use max. pressure marked pressure on tire, checked cold, slow down, if you really want to get where you're going ?
Thanks for these informative vids. We just purchased an F150 as a tow vehicle as we are planning to start full time travel next year, so your vids are especially helpful 👍
Excellent video. I've had three fifth wheels in my life, but now I’m getting a little Casita TT to pull behind a Tesla Model X. Tesla advises against a WDH. So I think I should be ok with a trailer of around 3,000 lbs fully loaded, and keeping my speed around 62 or so. Does anyone have thoughts to share?
This is an excellent video! Light tongue weight is a recipe for trailer sway disaster! No matter how big the truck! I would like to add in a couple of things that might make your driving much more comfortable. Keep in mind that you need to follow this video completely! Factory trucks are designed for comfort without the trailer. Adding high performance shocks will change the performance of your ride and take some of the sway out of the assembly. Adding a torsion bar to the rear axle makes a huge difference and almost eliminates the sway of the assembly. Please bear in mind that these two additions are NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! to replace the weight distribution talked about in the video. Your weight distribution HAS TO BE CORRECT. I towed a 8,000 lb. trailer for 40,000 miles with a 2014 tundra 5.6ft bed and did have issues with the wind and passing trucks even though my weight distribution was correct. Adding high performance shocks and a torsion bar did help those issues and my driving experience was way more comfortable. I did not stumble upon this information until the last few trips with our towable. We have since gone onto a fifth wheel.
Sway requires timely trailer brakes deployment . Then have a big enough tow truck with class E { Heavy Duty Tires } tires . Side wall flex can aggravate the situation . A 3/4 ton or 1 ton / dually will do a much better job. A half ton truck is a car with a box on it that has heavier springs . You just cant get too much truck! ******* And inspect your trailer frame regularly for cracks .Yes especially the big expensive ones . Any trailer with 2 or 3 axles has tortional stresses that will break those frames . And it occurs regularly and the frames are made of thin low quality metal. They are not Chrome molly steel. On youtube you can find where these cracks occur , how to detect them and how to get them fixed . The most expensive 5th wheels literally breaks in the basement area and near the pinbox structure. My travel trailer with dual axles started to twist the I beams and split where the Cross Braces welded to the web of the 1/8th in steel I beam . Be aware !
Good video for what can be a confusing topic sometimes. You got the hitch weight correct (no weight distribution). If you did leave the weight distribution hooked up you'd have to account for that in the calculation. Weight distribution just moves weight from the rear axle to the front axle and the trailer axle, it doesn't decrease the hitch weight.
@jimd7703 If the trailer axle weight increases, and the trailer overall weight does not change, doesn't that imply that the hitch weight (or, more precisely, the weight applied to the truck) has reduced?
I've noticed there are differences with some dual axles travel trailers. Some axles are narrow from front to rear. And there are others that are more spread apart. Do the trailers with the axles farther apart have more stability?
From what I understand, the spacing between dual axles will affect stability as well as weight limitations. I don’t know how this is determined or which spacing is better.
We have been noticing that 18 wheeler purposely go fast when passing the RV trailers on the Highway. Causing the RV to sway a little. We had this happen to us with 2 28 wheelers one on each side. Let me say that your first reaction need to be to hit that rV trailer brake! Also note the speed for towing in California is 55 mph . We where going 60 mph
Going to buy a trailer for the first time. I have a Toyota Tundra SR5 with the 5.7 V8 engine. This was a very informative video. Any suggestions on Max weight the trailer should be?
Awesome! You’re going to love it. We have a video that should help you with your questions. It’s titled, “Buying an RV? Watch This First!” I’ll attempt to leave a link below. ruclips.net/video/yB3GqEJQ_jY/видео.htmlsi=oZDUwkID-Dw4_wai
Here is a way to buy something to weigh your trailer tongue weight and still be buying tools to use for other applications, #1 is a "high lift" bumper style jack, #2 is a hanging scale big enough for your tongue weight, place the bumper jack in front and above your trailer tongue with the scale hanging off of the jack, I think you get the point.
I noticed one thing in common in the videos you clipped in where extreme sway caused accidents, and that is the driver was overtaking another vehicle. Excessive speed while towing is never a good thing.
I don't know where you live but my suggestion would be to find a grain elevator with a scale readout on there building. You can go there after close or on a weekend. Stop in during the week and make sure its ok . Offer them a few bucks and you would have all the time you need
There are a number of RUclips videos out there by people with good reputations on RVs. The ones I’ve seen clearly indicate that you will see a bit of a difference in axle when using a weight distribution hitch. I encourage you to look at some of those to better educate yourself. Asking the question in this video was a wise idea
Good information sir. I would have liked more information on the side to side effects off an uneven load left to right. Does it also introduce sway or does it make it worse if you have an introduction of sway only?
It is my understanding that unbalanced side-to-side loads not only contribute to trailer sway, but may even cause it. Another major concern for unbalanced side-to-side loads is the possibility of pushing above an individual tire’s load capacity. You can still be within the trailer’s GVWR or axle ratings with an unbalanced load, but over the limit on any individual tire. An overloaded tire may cause a tire blowout, which could lead to serious problems. In my humble opinion, it is always better to properly balance the load and keep the weight lighter than you think you can allow. Best of luck and safe travels!
Hmm. I have no experience with air suspension, but I can’t see how it would help with sway other than helping level the rig. Personally, I wouldn’t ditch the sway bars.
1. Learn how to drive with a trailer. 2. Don't overload the tongue weight. 3. Slow down by lifting your foot off of the gas pedal when sway starts. Don't speed up or break!
LOL. I don’t know much about driving a motor home, but I’m sure that it has its own issues. Come to think of it, I’ve noticed that most rentals I see are Class C motor homes. Maybe there is less of a learning curve with they. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Appreciate the video. Does this go for toy haulers as well? I was under the impression that toy haulers are made tongue heavy so when say a “Toy” is added to the back of the toy hauler the weight of the tongue still maintains that 10-15% window.
That’s a great question. I have no experience with toy haulers, but I think you’re right. I’m sure they’re designed to carry a ”toy” while maintaining the appropriate tongue weight. I guess you could always take it to a CAT scale to be sure. Thanks for the thoughtful comment. Maybe someone with experience will chime in.
My Equalizer hitch increases my trailer wt by 128 lbs vs wt when wdh is not engaged. Static tongue wt is 975 lbs via Sherline tongue scale and trailer is 7800 lbs. So, the wdh does move some tongue wt back to the trailer. The real mystery for me is in assuming a double axle suspension is a simple fulcrum. With my tongue on the tongue scale, i can walk 31 feet back to rear bumper and stand on it (200#) and the tongue scale doesnt change. Apparently the geometry of the double axle really dampers wt changes behind the axle. I can stand between axles and tongue and see small change but not as much as a sum of the moments calculation predicts. Can anyone add insight to this?
the reason some of the tongue weight moves back to the trailer is typically because as the WDH bars are applied the load on the rear axle of the vehicle is lessened (transferred to the front), thus the rear of the vehicle raises. As the tongue raises it also becomes lighter and the weight moves back to the trailer.
To answer your question, hitch and tongue weight are not the same. What you measured was the tongue weight ( usually define has weight on the tow ball ). If you had removed the hitch head from your vehicle before you weighed it, you would then be measuring the hitch weight ( force on the receiver).
This is a great video! Thanks for posting. The background music is almost as anxiety inducing as the crash footage, though! Please consider removing it. It makes it hard to concentrate on the great info you’re sharing!
So should the sway bars be level with the tongue of the trailer? And should the trailer tongue be level, or tipped slightly down towards the vehicle? I've heard different theories.
I've had 3 trailers . Proper weight distribution and anti sway bars are an absolute must. Proper install by a certified tech who knows how to st up the antisway system. Listen to what he's saying. Over 30000 miles some in heavy wind I've never had any sway issues. The proper set-up is absolutely imperative, That's why I've always had a pro install it. Proper weight distribution is a must as well. Do your homework before hooking up it will save you from tipovers
Agree that WDH's are a must for any trailer of any substance. BUT, so-called "Pros" don't always know what they're doing. I've had two different experiences with Pros that incorrectly set up my WDH on different trailers. Best policy is to use the WDH manual and a tape measure to measure wheel well heights and trailer leveling. Take responsibility yourself.
Lol you can set up your own hitch... especially the fact then you know how to adjust if needed. I love the fallacy of paying some pot head technician, expecting a professional.
Isn't this essentially just harmonic frequencies at play. The change in pitch begins with a shift at the steering wheel (front) and translates to the end. When overloaded at the rear, the recovery results in a push that lifts the rear of the vehicle and causes the wave to return back up the axis. ...correct me if I'm wrong, because it's probably not the safest maneuver, but I've heard that one way to overcome trailer sway before it gets really bad is to punch the accelerator and add more forward momentum, this snapping the trailer back in line. BUT, adding more force to the equation could also add more force into the accident.
Thats the main cause is driving to fast, if you start seeing the trailer start swaying drop your speed. In the UK its 60mph - motorways and dual carriageways. 50mph - single carriageways. 30mph - built-up areas.
You missed the most important point. The job of a weight distribution hitch is to distribute weight to the front axle of the truck. The front tires act to resist the sway, so without enough front axle wieght there will not be enough friction with the road. In that case, a longer truck would also create more resistance to sway. I have a Propride hitch which, with proper weight adjustment to the front axle, eliminates sway comple.
You are not in a race, ensure your vehicle is rated for the trailer you are towing, blance the weight of your gear in your trailer, place most of your weight over the trailer wheels, slow down and use anti-sway devices.
Keep it under 70, town 15-20% under your max tow capacity, watch your payload, remember tongue weight needs to be subtracted from your payload. Lastly, if you feel sway, tap your break controller to straighten the trailer out.
Hey teacher, to be truely accurate shouldn't you have two weights on your demo with the force meter? You are showing a tandem axel at the CAT scales. Or include a demo for tandem axle. Great vid, but yes background music is too loud.
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Can we talk about how cute the model truck and trailer on the treadmill was? Not only a great illustration of the topic, but really well made!! Well done.
LOL! Thanks so much for the kind comment.
Happy Trails!
~Two Traveling Teachers
Thank you for mentioning the speed factor! Then number of people I see pulling 30 foot plus trailers with a squatting pickup at 70+ mph is terrifying.
This video should be. REQUIRED VIEWING for each person who purchases a travel trailer. And a discussion afterwards should be had also. The tapping of the in cab brake control and the explanation of the trailer TRAVELING FASTER THAN THE TRUCK is a crucial part of what is happening. Thank you sir. !
Thank you!
More laws? Is there ever enough rules?
I destroyed my entire rig in 2022 due to trailer sway started by starting to pass a big rig. I thought I had done a good job loading,balancing, and using weight dist/anti sway bars. I even made sure my truck didn't squat more than half an inch and the trailer was perfectly level. At the time of the wreck I was well under the speed limit. We went from no problem to upside down on the road in less than 5 seconds. Here's my point--- the more sure you are this could never happen to you, the more you should think twice.
So what was your mistake?
@@kevkamo6289probably limiting his squat to half an inch which means not enough tongue weight. Sway happens when you don’t have enough tongue weight or when the trailer wants to go faster than the tow vehicle. In which case you just manually squeeze the trailer brake controller for a second
And this is exactly why I bought a propride. Glad you’re ok
That sounds horrifying!
So what caused your wreck? If you had properly configured WDH, anti-sway, loading etc, what else can you do? Were you over weight for your truck? Was there a tire blowout? A slightly unbalanced weight isn't going to put you upside down towing a properly attached trailer with all those precautions.
@@jabroni6199 That's a good point. Glad I researched all of this. I bet a lot of people think reducing hitch weight is always a good thing when in fact it isn't. A "good" hitch weight is more of a window of between x lbs and x lbs, not a lower is better thing.
I never thought to apply the brake controller manually via the little arm on the controller! Valuable tip
Thanks for watching and commenting. Happy Trails.
Slow and steady hell if you’re pulling a camper you’re on vacation so enjoy it
You are correct
Weight distribution bars are a double edge sword 🗡️. They transfer weight to the front axle 100lb in my case but by doing so they stress the frame...more weight you transfer more stress on the frame.
Exactly. I worry about this too, but I’ve decided I’d rather take my chances with the stress on the trailer frame. 🤷🏻
Stress on the tv frame or trailer frame?
My VW Touareg manual states not to use weight distribution as it will stress the cars frame which is why I don't use a weight distribution hitch.
@@TheSkite575 both truck and trailer
Some vehicles can not use a WDH.
Load toward the front - as much as tongue weight capacity will allow - and slow down. If you think you are going slow enough, maybe slow down another one or two mph.
Interesting video, I recently bought a F250 and a toy hauler travel trailer with a dry weight of 6200# and went to the CAT scale to see that the loaded trailer is 6950# (I don’t have toys) I also don’t exceed 65 mph and usually set my cruise control at 60mph. I am always shocked to see how many people pass me going 70+ with their travel trailer or 5th wheel and get a chuckle when I pass them as they blew out a tire.
This is a great video.
Everyone that pulls a trailer NEEDS to watch this. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the kind words. Safe travels!
~Two Traveling Teachers
Reinsures me I did the right thing by purchasing a ProPride 3P hitch system.
Hensley Hitch - stopped sway completely on our 31' travel trailer. I don't know why aren't more common. They're amazing. We would never have kept the RV otherwise.
Hensley went on to make Pro Pride hitch. Very similar, very effective. Very pricey.
I went with ProPride 3P and glad I did. I have been looking at Hensley for 5 years as we planned our retirement. We should do reviews every 3 years for people to know the diference
Hensley works. Expensive, but it works.
Great video. With lots of useful information. Can’t believe how bad the trailer was at the start. Have a great week. Chelsea and Mike
Thank you! We hope you have a great week as well.
Thanks for the video. As a new RV'er in 2021, I used a CAT scale to make sure I was loaded within all limits. I also used an Equalizer WDH similar to yours. I tow my 21' Jayco SLX 195RB trailer at no more than 60mph (95km/h) using my Nissan pathfinder. However I did find over the first 10000 miles (from Alberta to Newfoundland and back plus other trips) the A frame of my trailer gradually bent upwards! I am not sure but I put this down to the force exerted on the A frame by the Equalizer WDH system. I had to get the frame made horizontal again and had some additional strengthening welded on. Since then I have discontinued using the WDH with no issues despite towing my trailer more than 5,000 miles since then. The problem may have been the WDH or the flimsy trailer frame by Jayco but the issue is no longer a concern. Outside the scope of this video but I thought I'd comment anyway in case you have any thoughts or relevant experience of trailer frames bending? The safest thing is to slow down and load correctly.
The WDH is a double edged sword. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for sharing this really important information about the sway bar and breaking the trailer when the trailer starts to sway, very interesting video have a blessed day😊
Thank you so much! We appreciate it.
In addition to friction, another thing that helps is proper tires that resist side-flex. I just bought from a Ford dealer a 2021 F-150. Dealer had put new tires on it. Car tires with maximum pressure 44 PSI. First thing I changed was to put Load Range E tires on it the truck. I tow with 80 PSI in my rear tires. Interestingly, my 8.1 suburban came from the factory with Load Range E tires. The Chev door-sticker actually specified 50 PSI front, 80 PSI rear.
(Of course, medium-duty motorhome runs 95 PSI all around.)
Those videos are crazy! I use a BlueOx sway pro weight distribution hitch. No sway observed yet towing our GD Imagine XLS 21BHE. 🙏
Your two weights are correct in that the vehicle axle weights should a 740 lb difference between the first two weighs. A third weigh with weight distribution engaged would show weight transferred to the trailer axle and weight restored to the front axle. Based on the Ford owners manual, you want 50% of the weight restored to the front which would make your front axle at least 3100 lbs.
Take the combined weight of the vehicle axles from the third weigh of the vehicle and subtract the first weight of the vehicle combined axle weight and you get the ‘distributed’ tongue weight which will be less than 740 lbs to the tow vehicle.
The third weigh vehicle axle weights (weight distribution engaged) subtracted from the tow vehicle gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) will give you the available payload.
The key is to not over load the tow vehicle axles along with not exceeding the tow vehicle GVWR
Make sense?
Thanks so much for watching and sharing your thoughts.
NEVER hit your brakes if a trailer starts swaying. Let the rig slow down on its own. Also, don’t go cheap on tires, you want 8-10 ply or higher. I’ve towed a saltwater boat around the southeast for the last 20 years. When I wasn’t doing that, I was running a lawn and landscape company towing trailers full of gravel, dirt, sod, mulch, and heavy equipment.
Im a new camper owner and im towing a smaller 22 footer with a 2023 Tacoma trd. I got the weight distribution hitch with sway bars and I've been told that given my small setup not to worry but im such a novice I still cant help but imagine im going to fly off the road with my family in it. This video was immensely helpful and although it doesnt necessarily ease my mind, I at least know what to look for now and how to better prepare with each trip. Thank you!
@@Thedumbtruckdriver yes
I feel you there. I'm in a 3rd Gen taco, too. Towing a 6x12 dual axle with added height and definitely a little nervous for our maiden voyage. Manual states sway bar over 2000lbs and hitch distribution over 5,000. Going to start with the sway bar and see how the tongue sits loaded.
I've been towing a 23 ft jayco recently with my 20/20 Taco off-road. I've got some research to do. Driving on the highway is an absolute nightmare when trucks pass. First they suck you in and then they blow you out. If you don't time your steering adjustment well enough you feel like you would certainly lose control. I'm sticking to the side roads for now and maximum speed of 50 mph.
@@candycarton do you have the distribution hitch and sway bars as well? And did you install them yourself
@@CaseyQ I do indeed have a weight distribution hitch that was provided by the seller along with the camper. I suppose I'll have it gone over by a professional to make sure I'm doing everything correctly
Weight to front, tap brakes to slow sway, tiny steering corrections, let vehicle just coast no gas, to regain control. Speed increases steering corrections, stay around 55 or 60 tops.
Turn into the sway also
Use trailer brake as well
Drive slower and use the right vehicles. Big helper.
What a great video the first 30 seconds was terrifying. We’re glooming at 15 feet at most! 1967 vintage, yet wanted to learn for safety.
Sorry to scare you, but we hope it was helpful.
Whoa! Without the WDH the hitch weight went all to the rear axle (note that the front truck axle DECREASED from 3260# to 2940# and the rear truck axle INCREASED from 2540# to 3600#). This means that your truck had significant squat when weighed. I don't, however, think that the math in calculating the hitch weight would've changed since I believe that the WDH merely levers the weight from the truck's rear axle to the front axle. Just something to watch when you use a CAT -- a secondary benefit with the WDH attached allows you to determine whether or not the WDH is set up correctly (i.e. the hitch weight is equally distributed). If the CAT tells you that the front axle's weight increased by half that of the rear axle, an adjustment of the WDH might be suggested.
Here is a tip for all.
If your factory frame hitch has been on for years use a probe camera to inspect the inside of cross bar(if ends are open like on my Super Duty.)
Rust never sleeps. I Was 100 miles out on a 1200 mile trip when for no good reason I thought I would pull in to a rest stop jusr to make sure all was ok with my bew 16 ft. Enclosed trailer. I freaked out when I noticed the trailer was 4 inches from the ground and the ball on hitch was pointing to about 2:00 O'clock!
The frame had rusted to the point where it just twisted down. Talk about lucky. New draw tight on the way.
Condensation alone can cause rust on unprotected metal. New hitch is powder coated but I will be monitoring the inside of the cross bar for sure. Also ordered a tongue weight pole scale.
I use vectors to calculate the pin weight. I have confirmed my calculation works by measuring the pin weight on a Catscale. So now that I know my vector system works I can move the load around as needed. I no longer needn to use a catscale much now I just calculate things. A vector is a mathmatical thing composed of two values, in this case it is the weight of something and its place's distance from the pivot point. I give vectors behind the pivot point a negative value because they subtract from the pin weight. Multiply the two values together and add that product to the pin weight to see how it changes.
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
I’ve found the cam-style anti-sway devices to work better than the friction based ones. They won’t completely eliminate sway like a ProPride would - you’ll still feel that initial “woosh” when strong turbulent forces hit the side of the RV (and if you’re like me, your heart will jump out of your chest). But immediately afterwards, it goes back to center. I’ve driven through gale force winds that would otherwise have sent us into a sway-tastrophy.
Thanks for sharing!
Happy Trails!
Best is have right truck to do job. To many think just because they have enough power with that 1/2 ton they're good.
Pro Pride no sway hitch. Pricy but worth it. Hensley designer. Pivot point projection acts like it povots at the trucks rear axle.
The recommended Nose Weight (Tongue or Hitch Weight), was a rule of thumb guidance here in the UK, but it used to be between 5 to 7% of the MTPLM (Laden Trailer Weight). That was before EU Type Approval, for example pre-Type Approval, a manufacturer would make a recommendation, and it was up to the Owner whether they followed it.
So my 1973 VW 412LS Variant (Station Wagon), is 1120kg Kerb Weight (fuel/oil/water and a Driver included), with a max Laden Weight of 1665kg, and VW recommended a maximum Towing Capacity of 900kg, with a Drawbar (Hitch Weight) on the tow bar of 50kg maximum. Which meant the Nose Weight (Tongue Weight) had to be no greater than 50kg. You decided whether to take the risk of going beyond those weights.
The Caravan Club decided to introduce Guidance as well, called the 85% Rule, and 100% Rule. Again, not the Law.
The 85% Rule was for new drivers to towing, and the 100% Rule was for experienced drivers of towing, they decided that the fully laden caravan had be a percentage of the Kerb Weight, so 85% of 1120kg is 952kg, with some leeway on the Nose Weight of between 5 to 7%. Neither matters with regard to the VW recommended 900kg though. The experienced were recommended up to 1120kg.
However, even though we have left the EU, we still have Type Approval in Law for newer cars, and my 2018 Toyota Avensis Estate (Station Wagon) has figures for max Laden Weight of 2100kg, max Goods Train Weight of 3900kg, giving a max Towing Capacity of 500kg/1800kg (unbraked/braked), and a Drawbar of 75kg max, all legally enforceable. The now Caravan & Motorhome Club still recommends the 85% Rule & 100% Rule, again not enforceable, and still suggests a Nose Weight of between 5 to 7%. Note that they no longer state a Kerb Weight as above.
However, trailer/caravan standards are also now Type Approved, with my 2008 Swift Ace Celebration 620 being plated these days 1450kg MRO (Mass in Running Order), full gas bottles but no water on-board, and a 1700kg MTPLM (Maximum Technically Permissible Laden Mass), which means I have a maximum legal user Payload of 250kg, including water. Oh and the maximum Nose Weight of the caravan is 100kg, although this last figure not legally enforced, except in mitigation arguments in Court when apportioning blame to serious accidents, and also by Loss Adjusters in Insurance Claims.
Under the Law they use Max Laden Weight, Goods Train Weight, and MTPLM, rendering the 85% Rule, 100% Rule, and 5 to 7% Nose Weight guidance all just hearsay.
However, back before Type Approval there were no passive Hitch Stabilisers (the industry standard here is the passive ALKO AKS 3004 Stabiliser), and no active Automatic Trailer Control (the active electronically controlled ALKO ATS Anti-sway Trailer System is the best on the market here), on trailers/caravans, and cars did not have Anti-skid Braking Systems (ABS), or Electronic Stability Control (ESC), indeed, there were most likely drum brakes, and tyre technology and roadworthiness legislation (UK is MoT, Europe is TuV, both now compulsory annual tests), for tow vehicles and trailers/caravans were less developed, or strict.
These Laws are pretty much standard across Europe, whether your country is an EU Member State, or not.
You’ve got a lot of great information here. Thanks for sharing!
I pull with a Ford truck, would think the other US makers would as well, but the towing package has anti sway built in. It’s better suspension plus electronic monitoring that will apply trailer brakes if sway is detected. I’ve pulled with an Expedition, a suv, but it had a heavy tow package as well, never had a problem. People if you are going to tow, don’t just slap a hitch on a vehicle, get one with a towing package and know the parameters of your vehicle.
I have F250, bought a 27' travel trailer. Camping World automatically sold me the stabilizer hitch. The truck doesn't even squat a little when hooked up. They told me to turn the sway control off on the truck since the hitch is supposed to prevent sway. The trailer does sway more than I like, probably not too dangerous, but it's stressful driving. I think I will try towing with the sway control turned on.
f250 in the last 10 years should handle that trailer without the stabilizer hitch. Your truck should squat when towing to a certain degree as having the proper tongue weight is key to reducing sway. I agree you should leave the sway control on truck on. Its a smart system and controls the sway in different manner than the WDH (really it only kicks in when its serious and way beyond the WDH stopping it). I recommend finding a scale to make sure you have the proper tongue weight in ratio with your trailers overall weight. My suspicion is that you WDH is transferring too much weight off the back which will lead to sway. Perhaps re-adjusting it or try towing without it all together to see if it gets any better.
Great job... love the treadmill.
Thanks for watching
Good content, nice job!
My only issue is with the background music, it's a little annoying.
I felt like I was watching an HR video welcoming me to my new company and it was distracting.
I get the need for it, maybe just turn it down from 11 to 2.
Thanks for putting it together.
Everyone needs to see this information before packing for their first trip.
Especially the part about slowing down. I do not understand why people are in a hurry towing an RV. There is nothing fast or quick when it comes to an RV trip.
Take your time and enjoy the trip!
Thanks for the comment. I’ll look into improving the background music for future videos. 😆
You are a very good physics teacher👍
Great video, thank you for mentioning SPEED….never knew but always thought that played a huge factor
Thanks for watching, and thank you for commenting! Happy travels!
First upgrade i made on my boat was ... The trailer, dual disk brakes + hydro/electric actuator.
I'm glad these videos exist 'cause I'm a bit paranoid about going out on my first camping trip. Luckily it's very local so I won't need to drive on the freeway at all. But I'm getting a WDH with sway bars installed regardless.
Don't feel like your the only one. We all have the jitters at first but it gets easier with every trip. Drive safe!
I noticed on the three clips (at the very start of the video) that the axels are mid-location on the coach. That (combined with an undersized tow vehicle and imbalanced load) seems to exasperate the problem.
They make some great hydraulic devices that are small and you can pack with you to place underneath your trailer ball receiver and drop the weight of the tongue on to, to check your tongue weight. I tow a triple axle bumper pull toy hauler every summer and between the water tanks up front, the gas tanks in the rear, the grey/black water tanks, and the cargo, the weight distribution can change dramatically. These little devices are fantastic whenever you may be in doubt. Having said that, when you pull larger rigs, even well stabilized and in good weather, anytime something with a large box passes you, you are going to feel that sway as the vehicle starts to overtake you. At that point it will be the worst, so keep an eye on your rear view mirrors and don't let it take you by surprise.
Great information but I would also add to the mix, 1) tyre pressures for both tow vehicle and trailer must be at maximum for the load and speed, check the placard and then adjust pressures to suit the loads you have increased by adding things. 2) Remember, the wheels on the trailer are to carry the load of the trailer, the tow vehicle is not there to 'carry' that load, it is there to pull the load and stabilize any instability in the system, most countries require a minimum % tow hitch load for stability not a maximum. 3) Heavy things should be in the centre of the trailer and as low down as possible.
Thanks for sharing your valuable insight and tips!
Equalizer hitches aren't there to stop sway that's the job of a sway bar that use's friction to stop left and right movement. A equalizer hitch takes the tongue weight and tranfers it to the front of the truck and to the trailer axles.
My equalizer hitch also has 4 point sway control, so some hitches do control sway, just shedding some light.
@@jerrytalley802 Right. I have 20' enclosed car trailer. With a car in it, I expect it weighs about 6,000 pounds I don't use an equalizer. I do use a friction snubber when towing with my motorhome, as the overhang it is huge, and there is no aerodynamic drag on the trailer. I tended not to need it when towing with my 8.1 suburban, since the overhang is less and there is plenty of aerodynamic drag on the trailer. I retired the Suburban and now have an F-150 SuperCrew shortbox. The F-150 has longer wheelbase and shorter overhang than the Suburban, so I expect it will tow better.
If you have a properly rated tow vehicle, your WDH is correctly adjusted and you observe weight and balance in your RV you won't need the sway control.
Exceptionally informative. I agree with you that your second weighing can be with or without weight distribution. Ideally both is nice to have simply as you also get to see how much weight your hitch is actually distributing to your front axles. I only did mine with the bars attached, but still the same math to see how much of the added weight is on the truck. I notice that your front axle weight without wd was down 300ish pounds. I also tow with an F150 and tow a trailer that is somewhat heavier at a total of 7940. 6800 of that on my trailer axle and obviously the other 1140 on my truck, which is right around 14% of 7980 so that part is good. With my weight distribution hitch attached I am able to bring my front axle weight right back to its just the truck weight, thus ensuring that neither my front axle, rear axle or trailer axle is overloaded, and with the weight returned to the front axle handling is actually quite amazing. No sway at all it seems, and I have towed this set up for about 28000kms ( about 17350 miles). it would be interesting to see what your weights are like with the wdh fully set up, for the knowledge of how much weight you are managing to distribute to the front axle. Safe travels.....
Thanks so much for watching our video and sharing your thoughts.
With the wdh fully set up, the steer axle is about 180 lbs lighter than the truck when not towing. You’ve got me thinking I should adjust the hitch to throw more of the weight on the front axles. Thanks again for your input.
~Two Traveling Teachers
@@TwoTravelingTeachers I have found that set up to work the best. My original target had been to get my front fenders back to the same height off the ground with the trailer as they were without the trailer, thinking that if they were lifted at all then clearly they must be lighter, as things don't go up when they are heavier, and sure enough when the front fenders are basically back to starting point, or maybe an 1/8" lower, then the CAT scale confirms that I have kept my weight on the front axle which is great for handling. My F150 when loaded for travel but without the trailer (wife included....even though she was not that keen on multiple CAT scale passes) actually has the front axle loaded to within a few hundred pounds of axle capacity anyway, so I did not want to add too much weight there, but it handles superb when I can set up the hitch to basically not remove any weight from the front of the truck either. If you do decide to experiment, I would be very interested to hear how you make out with it. take care.
Thank you very much. This is excellent information
You’re welcome, and thank you for watching our video.
I am a scale technician by trade. Most scale companies and including state weights and measures test truck scales with at least 12.5% of scale capacity. But usually, use around 21000l to 30,000lb of combined buggy and test weights.
So at 25,000lb, a scale has a tolerance of +/- 60lb
Great information! Thanks for sharing.
I would just add that when you squeeze that brake controller, keep your foot steady on the gas pedal because people will tend to let off on the gas without realizing it because they're focused on the trailer, which has almost the same bad effect as stepping on the brakes would.
Thanks for sharing!
~Two Traveling Teachers
Totally agree especially if going down hill
Been a truck driver for 20 years. All good points, also fun to see the frame rate of your camera reflected in the wheels of that pete at the end of the video. guessing 60?
Wow! Great catch on that. I hadn’t noticed until you pointed it out. Yes, 60 fps on the GoPro.
Thanks for watching.
Very well done! Thanks
Thank you too! We appreciate your comment.
Well done! Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I WILL use many of these tips
Thanks so much and we’re happy you found it useful!
Almost swayed couple of days ago glad I was able to regain control definitely scary 😨
We’re glad you were able to regain control! Safe travels.
Very good presentation. Me personally was getting tired to drive like a truckdriver with all those big weights behind me . Sold it all and now have a teardrop trailer. There is nothing to it. Although I still apply the 10-15% rule. Habits I guess.
Thank you for watching and sharing your comment. Enjoy your teardrop and happy trails!
Here is a way to buy something to weigh your trailer tongue weight and still be buying tools to use for other applications, #1 is a "high lift" bumper style jack, #2 is a hanging scale big enough for your tongue weight, place the bumper jack in front and above your trailer tongue with the scale hanging off of the jack, I think you get the point.
Maybe walked right over it, but before hitting the road, proper tire pressure, ckecked w/a good tire gauge, use max. pressure marked pressure on tire, checked cold, slow down, if you really want to get where you're going ?
Cool simulation! In the name of science!
Thanks for these informative vids. We just purchased an F150 as a tow vehicle as we are planning to start full time travel next year, so your vids are especially helpful 👍
Thank you so much for your feedback. Best of luck!
You mean an F350?
F150 is what women drive to go get a few bags of potting soil for their planter box.
@Falling_Down_1776 Although, I believe F150 owners can write a simple sentence without having to edit it..
@PC-tc5je but he's sorta right. Just said it like a dik lol
Excellent video. I've had three fifth wheels in my life, but now I’m getting a little Casita TT to pull behind a Tesla Model X. Tesla advises against a WDH. So I think I should be ok with a trailer of around 3,000 lbs fully loaded, and keeping my speed around 62 or so. Does anyone have thoughts to share?
This is an excellent video! Light tongue weight is a recipe for trailer sway disaster! No matter how big the truck! I would like to add in a couple of things that might make your driving much more comfortable. Keep in mind that you need to follow this video completely! Factory trucks are designed for comfort without the trailer. Adding high performance shocks will change the performance of your ride and take some of the sway out of the assembly. Adding a torsion bar to the rear axle makes a huge difference and almost eliminates the sway of the assembly. Please bear in mind that these two additions are NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! to replace the weight distribution talked about in the video. Your weight distribution HAS TO BE CORRECT. I towed a 8,000 lb. trailer for 40,000 miles with a 2014 tundra 5.6ft bed and did have issues with the wind and passing trucks even though my weight distribution was correct. Adding high performance shocks and a torsion bar did help those issues and my driving experience was way more comfortable. I did not stumble upon this information until the last few trips with our towable. We have since gone onto a fifth wheel.
Thanks for the comment and this valuable insight and information.
Happy Trails!
Get a vehicle built to tow trailers. Look for heavy rear leaf springs and higher ply sidewall tires.
Sway requires timely trailer brakes deployment . Then have a big enough tow truck with class E { Heavy Duty Tires } tires . Side wall flex can aggravate the situation . A 3/4 ton or 1 ton / dually will do a much better job. A half ton truck is a car with a box on it that has heavier springs . You just cant get too much truck! ******* And inspect your trailer frame regularly for cracks .Yes especially the big expensive ones . Any trailer with 2 or 3 axles has tortional stresses that will break those frames . And it occurs regularly and the frames are made of thin low quality metal. They are not Chrome molly steel. On youtube you can find where these cracks occur , how to detect them and how to get them fixed . The most expensive 5th wheels literally breaks in the basement area and near the pinbox structure. My travel trailer with dual axles started to twist the I beams and split where the Cross Braces welded to the web of the 1/8th in steel I beam . Be aware !
Great video and thank you, I had no idea of these dangers of bumper pulling. New to the rv world…..
Thanks for watching and commenting. We're glad you found it useful.
Be safe and Happy Travels!
We are thinking about buying a travel trailer and this has me rethinking the whole idea. 😰
Answer; Motorhome.
Good video for what can be a confusing topic sometimes. You got the hitch weight correct (no weight distribution). If you did leave the weight distribution hooked up you'd have to account for that in the calculation. Weight distribution just moves weight from the rear axle to the front axle and the trailer axle, it doesn't decrease the hitch weight.
Thanks so much for your comment.
@jimd7703 If the trailer axle weight increases, and the trailer overall weight does not change, doesn't that imply that the hitch weight (or, more precisely, the weight applied to the truck) has reduced?
Good information to ponder! Thanks
You are welcome. Safe travels!
~Two Traveling Teachers
I've noticed there are differences with some dual axles travel trailers. Some axles are narrow from front to rear. And there are others that are more spread apart. Do the trailers with the axles farther apart have more stability?
From what I understand, the spacing between dual axles will affect stability as well as weight limitations. I don’t know how this is determined or which spacing is better.
We have been noticing that 18 wheeler purposely go fast when passing the RV trailers on the Highway. Causing the RV to sway a little.
We had this happen to us with 2 28 wheelers one on each side. Let me say that your first reaction need to be to hit that rV trailer brake!
Also note the speed for towing in California is 55 mph . We where going 60 mph
2 18 wheelers
Well it’s a good thing I’m considering a class c rv then a tow trailer
Lol. Thanks for watching.
I usually run 55-60. Nottowing anything crazy micro minnie 2106. Also have the E2 WDH. Rather get there slow and safe.
Slower is definitely safer. No need to be in a big rush… take it easy and enjoy the ride.
Any considerations for a lightweight camper under 3000 lbs such as a Scamp tow by a 1/2 tonnes truck?
Going to buy a trailer for the first time. I have a Toyota Tundra SR5 with the 5.7 V8 engine. This was a very informative video. Any suggestions on Max weight the trailer should be?
Awesome! You’re going to love it. We have a video that should help you with your questions. It’s titled, “Buying an RV? Watch This First!”
I’ll attempt to leave a link below.
ruclips.net/video/yB3GqEJQ_jY/видео.htmlsi=oZDUwkID-Dw4_wai
Here is a way to buy something to weigh your trailer tongue weight and still be buying tools to use for other applications, #1 is a "high lift" bumper style jack, #2 is a hanging scale big enough for your tongue weight, place the bumper jack in front and above your trailer tongue with the scale hanging off of the jack, I think you get the point.
I noticed one thing in common in the videos you clipped in where extreme sway caused accidents, and that is the driver was overtaking another vehicle. Excessive speed while towing is never a good thing.
I also noticed that almost every tow vehicle in the intro is a SUV towing
This is awesome video you made sir. Very informative and helpful. 👍🏻
Thank you so much! We’re glad you found it useful.
I don't know where you live but my suggestion would be to find a grain elevator with a scale readout on there building. You can go there after close or on a weekend. Stop in during the week and make sure its ok . Offer them a few bucks and you would have all the time you need
Front end alignment and anti sway bars.
There are a number of RUclips videos out there by people with good reputations on RVs. The ones I’ve seen clearly indicate that you will see a bit of a difference in axle when using a weight distribution hitch. I encourage you to look at some of those to better educate yourself. Asking the question in this video was a wise idea
Great video!
Good information sir. I would have liked more information on the side to side effects off an uneven load left to right. Does it also introduce sway or does it make it worse if you have an introduction of sway only?
It is my understanding that unbalanced side-to-side loads not only contribute to trailer sway, but may even cause it. Another major concern for unbalanced side-to-side loads is the possibility of pushing above an individual tire’s load capacity. You can still be within the trailer’s GVWR or axle ratings with an unbalanced load, but over the limit on any individual tire. An overloaded tire may cause a tire blowout, which could lead to serious problems. In my humble opinion, it is always better to properly balance the load and keep the weight lighter than you think you can allow.
Best of luck and safe travels!
There seems to be a rising movement to get air suspension and ditch the sway bars, any thoughts on this?
Hmm. I have no experience with air suspension, but I can’t see how it would help with sway other than helping level the rig. Personally, I wouldn’t ditch the sway bars.
Sway starts ease if throttle and apply trailer brakes only to bring it out.
I'm done with sway. I bought the propride hitch
These travel trailers are huge. 8 wide and 12 high
I worked in a travel trailer rv lot back in the 70’s. Back then they sold anti-sway bars that were part of package for the hitch. Dont they still use?
1. Learn how to drive with a trailer.
2. Don't overload the tongue weight.
3. Slow down by lifting your foot off of the gas pedal when sway starts. Don't speed up or break!
One common theme in these crashes. SUV's towing too big of trailer. Short wheelbase.
Really good information in this vlog. I'm so glad we are Motorhomers now.
LOL. I don’t know much about driving a motor home, but I’m sure that it has its own issues. Come to think of it, I’ve noticed that most rentals I see are Class C motor homes. Maybe there is less of a learning curve with they.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Appreciate the video. Does this go for toy haulers as well? I was under the impression that toy haulers are made tongue heavy so when say a “Toy” is added to the back of the toy hauler the weight of the tongue still maintains that 10-15% window.
That’s a great question. I have no experience with toy haulers, but I think you’re right. I’m sure they’re designed to carry a ”toy” while maintaining the appropriate tongue weight. I guess you could always take it to a CAT scale to be sure.
Thanks for the thoughtful comment. Maybe someone with experience will chime in.
Fantastic tips
Thanks you!
My Equalizer hitch increases my trailer wt by 128 lbs vs wt when wdh is not engaged. Static tongue wt is 975 lbs via Sherline tongue scale and trailer is 7800 lbs.
So, the wdh does move some tongue wt back to the trailer.
The real mystery for me is in assuming a double axle suspension is a simple fulcrum. With my tongue on the tongue scale, i can walk 31 feet back to rear bumper and stand on it (200#) and the tongue scale doesnt change. Apparently the geometry of the double axle really dampers wt changes behind the axle. I can stand between axles and tongue and see small change but not as much as a sum of the moments calculation predicts.
Can anyone add insight to this?
the reason some of the tongue weight moves back to the trailer is typically because as the WDH bars are applied the load on the rear axle of the vehicle is lessened (transferred to the front), thus the rear of the vehicle raises. As the tongue raises it also becomes lighter and the weight moves back to the trailer.
To answer your question, hitch and tongue weight are not the same. What you measured was the tongue weight ( usually define has weight on the tow ball ). If you had removed the hitch head from your vehicle before you weighed it, you would then be measuring the hitch weight ( force on the receiver).
This is a great video! Thanks for posting. The background music is almost as anxiety inducing as the crash footage, though! Please consider removing it. It makes it hard to concentrate on the great info you’re sharing!
So should the sway bars be level with the tongue of the trailer? And should the trailer tongue be level, or tipped slightly down towards the vehicle? I've heard different theories.
this is the vid!
I've had 3 trailers . Proper weight distribution and anti sway bars are an absolute must. Proper install by a certified tech who knows how to st up the antisway system. Listen to what he's saying. Over 30000 miles some in heavy wind I've never had any sway issues. The proper set-up is absolutely imperative,
That's why I've always had a pro install it. Proper weight distribution is a must as well. Do your homework before hooking up it will save you from tipovers
Agree that WDH's are a must for any trailer of any substance. BUT, so-called "Pros" don't always know what they're doing. I've had two different experiences with Pros that incorrectly set up my WDH on different trailers. Best policy is to use the WDH manual and a tape measure to measure wheel well heights and trailer leveling. Take responsibility yourself.
Lol you can set up your own hitch... especially the fact then you know how to adjust if needed. I love the fallacy of paying some pot head technician, expecting a professional.
Isn't this essentially just harmonic frequencies at play. The change in pitch begins with a shift at the steering wheel (front) and translates to the end. When overloaded at the rear, the recovery results in a push that lifts the rear of the vehicle and causes the wave to return back up the axis. ...correct me if I'm wrong, because it's probably not the safest maneuver, but I've heard that one way to overcome trailer sway before it gets really bad is to punch the accelerator and add more forward momentum, this snapping the trailer back in line. BUT, adding more force to the equation could also add more force into the accident.
no apply hand pressure to the trailer brake controller, like a parachute , opposite of speed.
@@thefix2573 Well that's the other way.
Thats the main cause is driving to fast, if you start seeing the trailer start swaying drop your speed. In the UK its 60mph - motorways and dual carriageways. 50mph - single carriageways. 30mph - built-up areas.
Do not just slow down! That could actually increase the sway. Keep speed even and apply trailer brakes. If you don't have trailer brakes, get them!
Awesome video about trailer sway! Thank you so much for your insight 👍
Thank you so much for watching and commenting.
I can’t remove the metal frame in the middle. I stuck at that part of your mod. My frame is black.
You missed the most important point. The job of a weight distribution hitch is to distribute weight to the front axle of the truck. The front tires act to resist the sway, so without enough front axle wieght there will not be enough friction with the road. In that case, a longer truck would also create more resistance to sway. I have a Propride hitch which, with proper weight adjustment to the front axle, eliminates sway comple.
Both of your points are sound. Thanks for sharing.
Nothing can eliminate sway completely.
The most important part is proper loading of the trailer and having sufficient tongue weight. My advice is to buy enough truck for the trailer.
@@_DB.COOPER It's completely gone as in it doesn't want to sway, it's self righting at this point.
@@-_.._._--_.-.-_-_-_-...-.- NOTHING can eliminate sway completely, NOTHING! Glad I could help.
You are not in a race, ensure your vehicle is rated for the trailer you are towing, blance the weight of your gear in your trailer, place most of your weight over the trailer wheels, slow down and use anti-sway devices.
Keep it under 70, town 15-20% under your max tow capacity, watch your payload, remember tongue weight needs to be subtracted from your payload. Lastly, if you feel sway, tap your break controller to straighten the trailer out.
What trailer are you pulling with your f150? I'm looking to get a Grand Design Imagine XLS
We tow a 22 MLE
Hey teacher, to be truely accurate shouldn't you have two weights on your demo with the force meter? You are showing a tandem axel at the CAT scales. Or include a demo for tandem axle. Great vid, but yes background music is too loud.