Tips for using the filter in photoshop. If you think it effects the whites too much. Right click on the adjustment layer and choose Blending Options. On the bottom of the new window there is two gradient bars. Alt-click on the pin on the white side of the gradient and pull it towards the middle. This decreases the filter effects in the white areas of the image.
Warming filters such as the 81A, 81B, 81C, and 81EF were designed to correct the colour balance of film in cool lighting conditions such as portraits in the shaded areas on a blue sky day. The daylight film is designed for 5500 Kelvins and in the shade the Kelvins could be anywhere in the 6000-8000 range. By using using a warming filter in these conditions you will bring the colour temperature back to the manufacturers specs of 5500K. In Arctic/snow conditions and beach on a sunny day (in the shade of a tree or building) the colour temperature can be as high as 16000 Kelvins requiring a 85 series 0f warming filters for correction. Nice video presentation but I suggest using a 81A for general use and your 81C for portraits in the shade, particularly if you shoot weddings. Both white dresses and black suits develop blue casts in the shade. No scanning corrections will ever give you a better results than correcting in camera. It is not the same as Raw in digital. Hope this helps and sorry if this is too long and thanks for keeping film alive.
I have spent two months watching all the videos in this channel like if I was watching a tv show and I am absolutely sad because this is the last video 😭 You and your friends are absolutely amazing not only as photographers but as persons. I've learnt a lot. You are so inspiring. Thank you so much. Looking forward to buy a new fanzine because I missed all of them. Greetings from Canary Islands! 🌞📸
If I remember correctly, this type of filter works incredibly in slide film. Especially if the film is cooler like Ektachrome or when your in shade and the colour balance is cool in the shade.
Every video and photos you take seem like there's a warmth into them. I couldn't pinpoint what made them that way but it's just very special. Nice work.
Personally prefer the photos without the filter but can see the appeal of it for people living in England which tends to be more cool toned. I live in Australia and everything already comes out warm toned so I don’t need it to be anymore warm. :)
These kind of filter are originally created to color correct motion picture film white balance on camera. To correct tungsten lighting (used in studio) to match the white balance of daylight based filmstock like the kodak 250D or to use tungsten based filmstock (like the kodak 500T) in daylight external locations.
Warming filters are for color-correcting fixed white balance slide (transparency) film. Since slide film is a one-step process, the photographer is wholly responsible for the resulting image. Small exposure differences or color-shift on slide film are the result of shooting film slightly "wrong". Daylight balanced slide film is meant to be shot at 5500K, shooting it in shade would produce blueish images. That's why commercial photographers used Color Meters to measure ambient light and/or flash and adjusted their filtration before making an exposure. Portrait and Wedding photographers always shot color negative film since the goal was to make physical prints and it had greater exposure latitude. Originally, print film was chemically developed then video analyzed by humans and adjusted to the photographer's preference (I like my people images to be a little warm). Density (exposure) and each of the RGB channels was adjusted before "Print" was clicked and the image was sent into the enlarger for optical printing. Pro laboratories had specific channels setup on their analyzers for different film stocks, i.e. Portra. Now of course the photographer relies on a scanner operator (or himself) to adjust the images before making a digital file. Similar process, just not with the goal of optically printing an image. If you'd like to see what shooting slide film is like, fix your AWB to the Daylight setting and go out and shoot some JPEGS. Don't chimp. Look at your results on the computer when you get home. You will find/learn a lot!
I discovered your channel a couple of weeks ago and after slowly binging through all of your videos I meant to put a comment about filters as I don't think you've really mentioned them before. And then you upload a video and beat me to it - nice. Do you ever use polarisers?
Dorsheila. That is debateable. He puts the object of his attention right in the middle of the frame, whereupon the psychological reaction is yawn, boring.
@@AnthonySchnitzel a subjective opinion. 😉 I actually prefered the shots without. But I will try this on my slidefilm scans. Especially the Fuji Provia ones. I find a bit to cool in daylight.
Hi! First of all - thanks for a great channel, keep up the good work. I recently bought myself a Lecia M6 and I have had some troubles with the batteries. In the beginning I had the wrong kind so after some weeks I bought some really good ones. However it took me only a week before they where completely drained. I have done some research and some people seam to have a similar problem and their solution is to always set the time dial to B when they don't use the camera. I ordered new batteries yesterday so I haven't had time to try this out but hopefully it solves my problem. I was wondering if you have had the same problem and if you have some routine of always setting the dial to B or making sure that the lever is not cocked when you put the camera away (and thus leaving the meter off) ?
I'm not sure if I like this, particularly for urban shooting. It reminds me of using Auto white balance in Lightroom, it pushes things too warm for my liking. The warming filter is okay for some situations, but not generally.
This is so interesting and useful ! Great content, thank you. :) I got an idea if you feel like doing it sometime: it would be interesting to see a video about some great analog (or not) photographers who you may like, or who had a big influence over photography development as well as making up new styles. For exemple, like we have Picasso or Michelangelo in art, it would feel nice to be introduced by a little bit of history of photography from your point of view. :)
sh3. Forget Picasso, he had a contract with his dealer that forced him to produce badly executed paintings, else he no income. The star makers hailed him nevertheless. He used a box camera with a broken lens, that's where he got his similarly broken compositions and broken up faces from. The horse on his Guernica painting has got nothing to do with the bombed city, the real symbol of Guernica is the sacred tree, which is on the city's heraldic shield. So now you know.
81A adds the least warming, and 81C adds the most, with 81B somewhere in the middle. 81A is very subtle, whereas 81B is a decent all-arounder, especially if you'd be shooting in the shade that some films render more blue (looking at you Ektar and Provia), and 81C can be quite strong for general-purpose shooting.
Yeah, I'm not traveling a lot lately... But sometimes I miss being able to ask someone "hey can I take a picture of you?" without adding "if you have 10 minutes" haha@@NegativeFeedback
I guess it's meant to be used with cine films that are tungsten. But it's great to see the test otherwise, it does give a interesting look to some photos.
Actually, not so. If you have a film set to shoot under tungsten light and wish to shoot it in daylight, you would use a fairly strong blue filter, something from the 80 series. To go the other way, a strong amber, 85 series. The filter used here, a 81C, is a strong warming filter. I'm fairly sure he is adjusting color balance in photoshop to counteract the filter a bit, or his final images would appear much warmer (redder) than seen here. For the light overcast or mixed blue sky in most of these scenes, a 81A or 81B would be the limit before a reddish cast upset the color balance. Between digital color adjustments in scanning, and later, printing, there isn't really anything left to compare here.
For me, only nd filters allowed. All the other stuff it's only gonna ruin the sharpness, color rendition ecc. of the lens. This filter is useful to shot tungsten balanced film during the day, but for "normal" c-41 film i wouldn't use it.
To shoot "normal" film (I'm assuming you're referring to daylight film as normal film) you'd use an 80A (3200 to 5500K) or an 80B (3400 to 5500 K) or an 80C (3600 to 5500K) filter on your lens. Basically the 80A should be sufficient.
Exactly the insight I needed - Thank you :) Short but insightful, valuable, mini-vid', (Of the catch you out sort) Thanks :) and to others :) please hit that little bell so you get email advises of any new vids' ;)
Your filter is going to record in camera slightly different wavelengths which Won"t be reproducible in PS. Cuts through haze, not that you would see on 35 lens. That LoMo film seems pretty good! Or just you lol
Sebastian Sanders it looks like an MP in my opinion, I could be wrong. How much are you trying to spend? Do you want a film or digital Leica? Also have you used a ranger finder before?
M6 Leica Historical Society of America special edition with black paint finish and black dot. He's got an MP winder on it (and a MP finder?). One of a shortlist of 3 dream cameras for me hence my keen eye.
@@NegativeFeedback just got the notification when I'll go sleep cause it's 1 am in the morning already. Anyway I miss your old backsongs haha can't wait for the next week ⚡
Tips for using the filter in photoshop. If you think it effects the whites too much. Right click on the adjustment layer and choose Blending Options. On the bottom of the new window there is two gradient bars. Alt-click on the pin on the white side of the gradient and pull it towards the middle. This decreases the filter effects in the white areas of the image.
Thanks! Will definitely give this a go
Warming filters such as the 81A, 81B, 81C, and 81EF were designed to correct the colour balance of film in cool lighting conditions such as portraits in the shaded areas on a blue sky day. The daylight film is designed for 5500 Kelvins and in the shade the Kelvins could be anywhere in the 6000-8000 range. By using using a warming filter in these conditions you will bring the colour temperature back to the manufacturers specs of 5500K. In Arctic/snow conditions and beach on a sunny day (in the shade of a tree or building) the colour temperature can be as high as 16000 Kelvins requiring a 85 series 0f warming filters for correction. Nice video presentation but I suggest using a 81A for general use and your 81C for portraits in the shade, particularly if you shoot weddings. Both white dresses and black suits develop blue casts in the shade. No scanning corrections will ever give you a better results than correcting in camera. It is not the same as Raw in digital. Hope this helps and sorry if this is too long and thanks for keeping film alive.
BTW I purposefully left the grade on the outside footage neutral to show how it actually looked to the eye
good, better not catch u editing
I have spent two months watching all the videos in this channel like if I was watching a tv show and I am absolutely sad because this is the last video 😭 You and your friends are absolutely amazing not only as photographers but as persons. I've learnt a lot. You are so inspiring. Thank you so much. Looking forward to buy a new fanzine because I missed all of them. Greetings from Canary Islands! 🌞📸
I like the new production pace. In your case, more often is better. Thanks.
That filter just saturates the sun’s color in such a pleasing way. I love it! Would be interested to see how it effects slide and b&w film as well.
If I remember correctly, this type of filter works incredibly in slide film. Especially if the film is cooler like Ektachrome or when your in shade and the colour balance is cool in the shade.
Every video and photos you take seem like there's a warmth into them. I couldn't pinpoint what made them that way but it's just very special. Nice work.
A video about a filter... LOVE IT.
Personally prefer the photos without the filter but can see the appeal of it for people living in England which tends to be more cool toned. I live in Australia and everything already comes out warm toned so I don’t need it to be anymore warm. :)
I'd love to head to Australia and just take every camera I own and shoot all the things haha
I love it on black and white, even the darker red filters, it make the sky incredible
Thanks for the tip about telling the lab George, I am just about to try my RB67 pro SD with the Cokin Z pro filter set up, keep up the good work.
These kind of filter are originally created to color correct motion picture film white balance on camera. To correct tungsten lighting (used in studio) to match the white balance of daylight based filmstock like the kodak 250D or to use tungsten based filmstock (like the kodak 500T) in daylight external locations.
But it’s nice to use them in a creative way too
I really like using the Cinestill 800T in daylight with a warming filter on the lens. Looks really nice.
I really like it, gives so much life to the photos
Thanks for sharing about the filter George. I’ll try it out.
Warming filters are for color-correcting fixed white balance slide (transparency) film. Since slide film is a one-step process, the photographer is wholly responsible for the resulting image. Small exposure differences or color-shift on slide film are the result of shooting film slightly "wrong". Daylight balanced slide film is meant to be shot at 5500K, shooting it in shade would produce blueish images. That's why commercial photographers used Color Meters to measure ambient light and/or flash and adjusted their filtration before making an exposure.
Portrait and Wedding photographers always shot color negative film since the goal was to make physical prints and it had greater exposure latitude. Originally, print film was chemically developed then video analyzed by humans and adjusted to the photographer's preference (I like my people images to be a little warm). Density (exposure) and each of the RGB channels was adjusted before "Print" was clicked and the image was sent into the enlarger for optical printing. Pro laboratories had specific channels setup on their analyzers for different film stocks, i.e. Portra.
Now of course the photographer relies on a scanner operator (or himself) to adjust the images before making a digital file. Similar process, just not with the goal of optically printing an image. If you'd like to see what shooting slide film is like, fix your AWB to the Daylight setting and go out and shoot some JPEGS. Don't chimp. Look at your results on the computer when you get home. You will find/learn a lot!
Finally, someone who knows what they're talking about.
Love the video, can’t wait to see next weeks.
I know right? lol the anticipation is killing me
“When I got a Leica I promised myself I would only put b&w film through it”
*Why*
This was a nice video to watch like it was just a pleasant piece of cinema
They are always so dope. Im trying to make my videos more like his. 2019 goals ha
Oh man I missed this kind of videos!
I discovered your channel a couple of weeks ago and after slowly binging through all of your videos I meant to put a comment about filters as I don't think you've really mentioned them before. And then you upload a video and beat me to it - nice. Do you ever use polarisers?
im always very amazed at how you frame your photographs, everything looks so good
Dorsheila. That is debateable. He puts the object of his attention right in the middle of the frame, whereupon the psychological reaction is yawn, boring.
Very subtle but still super good
I'd love to see how it affects new Ektachrome
My thoughts excactly. Warming filters were ment for slidefilm if I'm not mistanken.
@@sespela That's what i read everywhere, but eh, seems like it works for print film too.
@@AnthonySchnitzel a subjective opinion. 😉 I actually prefered the shots without. But I will try this on my slidefilm scans. Especially the Fuji Provia ones. I find a bit to cool in daylight.
I think you'll like it on Provia, that pretty much always needs a warming filter
Ektachrome was a notoriouly 'cold' colour temperature (more towards the blue) side film, so expect significant warmong effect again here.
Can you use a "cold" film with a warm filter plz?
I like that it doesn't make brick too orange. Im gonna see if they make one of these for my Polaroid SX-70 and see if I can review it on my channel.
thanks for this video mate!! it would be nice to see more tests like this :) that is really helpful
George throwing rapper hands the whole video, album soon?
And yes, I comment this a year and a half later when rewatching all of Gergo's videos.
Hi!
First of all - thanks for a great channel, keep up the good work.
I recently bought myself a Lecia M6 and I have had some troubles with the batteries. In the beginning I had the wrong kind so after some weeks I bought some really good ones. However it took me only a week before they where completely drained. I have done some research and some people seam to have a similar problem and their solution is to always set the time dial to B when they don't use the camera. I ordered new batteries yesterday so I haven't had time to try this out but hopefully it solves my problem. I was wondering if you have had the same problem and if you have some routine of always setting the dial to B or making sure that the lever is not cocked when you put the camera away (and thus leaving the meter off) ?
we WEEKLY now
the grind never stops *blowing smoke out of nose emoji* (wrote this on my computer)
1:21 unintended pun "it's just Leica fun experiment"
Very nice!
subtle but it’s really pretty :)
Overcast day = greater degree of blue light. The warming filter will help correct the colour on film and make the images look 'more natural'.
warming filters are a must have for slide film.
ive had a warming filter sitting around in my drawers. i think ill throw it on now!
That empty pool is so cool
Necessary kit for shooting slides, plus it looks nice on c41 too!
I'm not sure if I like this, particularly for urban shooting. It reminds me of using Auto white balance in Lightroom, it pushes things too warm for my liking. The warming filter is okay for some situations, but not generally.
2:13 Have you forgotten to put the lenshood back on?
Is this filter designed for B&W or for colour film specifically?
This is so interesting and useful ! Great content, thank you. :)
I got an idea if you feel like doing it sometime: it would be interesting to see a video about some great analog (or not) photographers who you may like, or who had a big influence over photography development as well as making up new styles. For exemple, like we have Picasso or Michelangelo in art, it would feel nice to be introduced by a little bit of history of photography from your point of view. :)
sh3. Forget Picasso, he had a contract with his dealer that forced him to produce badly executed paintings, else he no income. The star makers hailed him nevertheless. He used a box camera with a broken lens, that's where he got his similarly broken compositions and broken up faces from. The horse on his Guernica painting has got nothing to do with the bombed city, the real symbol of Guernica is the sacred tree, which is on the city's heraldic shield. So now you know.
yoo cool video! whats the name of the Gallery which you viseted in the video?
Have you tried to change blend modes for the Warming filter in Photoshop? Maybe set it to Color or Hue?
I wanna see a video of you trying out a camera with a waist level viewfinder ! RB67 or RZ67
Any more negitive feedback tee shirts coming out?
Maybe soon, it was logistically pretty challenging
@@NegativeFeedback fair enough mate👍if u do decide to release some I'll be first to buy boi👍 (Cheeki Breeki)
NegativeFeedback i still love mine!
Interesting. I personally liked the filter effect much more on the indoor photos.
Welp, just bought a filter off of KEH.
Thats how they get ya haha
Should I go for 81A, 81B, or like yours, an 81C? What difference do they make from one another ?
81A adds the least warming, and 81C adds the most, with 81B somewhere in the middle. 81A is very subtle, whereas 81B is a decent all-arounder, especially if you'd be shooting in the shade that some films render more blue (looking at you Ektar and Provia), and 81C can be quite strong for general-purpose shooting.
I’d be interested to see what this filter does for shooting ECN2 films like 500t and 200t. Anyone know if there’s a difference between the 81A or C?
I really hope Peels post about you wearing their shirt
1:22 "a Leica-fun experiment" : )
Nice LHSA , Stay curious George.
4x5 Chamonix vs Mamiya 7... As your main and only camera. Which would you pick?
Bless you
Really depends how much you travel, the mamiya is way more portable but I love shooting large format
Yeah, I'm not traveling a lot lately... But sometimes I miss being able to ask someone "hey can I take a picture of you?" without adding "if you have 10 minutes" haha@@NegativeFeedback
@@superyuyo4060 Yeah it is a bit slower to do, helps if you carry your camera already set up though
Great video as always! I would like to know where are the places at 2:19 and 2:34 (it's the same place perhaps?). Thanks!
It's Whitechapel Gallery I think
Didn't you already have an orange filter ? Like the one in video from Naples
Yeah, that's for black and white not colour though
1:40 What is that music? I cannot find it on LSOW's Soundcloud channel.
People: *Trying to get rid of Takumar's yellowness*
Negativefeedback: Why?
supernice
can you send the link of the filter i want to try it myself on my 50mm summarit
I guess it's meant to be used with cine films that are tungsten. But it's great to see the test otherwise, it does give a interesting look to some photos.
That's an 85 filter which is a lot stronger than an 81
Actually, not so. If you have a film set to shoot under tungsten light and wish to shoot it in daylight, you would use a fairly strong blue filter, something from the 80 series. To go the other way, a strong amber, 85 series. The filter used here, a 81C, is a strong warming filter. I'm fairly sure he is adjusting color balance in photoshop to counteract the filter a bit, or his final images would appear much warmer (redder) than seen here. For the light overcast or mixed blue sky in most of these scenes, a 81A or 81B would be the limit before a reddish cast upset the color balance. Between digital color adjustments in scanning, and later, printing, there isn't really anything left to compare here.
@@randallstewart175 thanks for the correction guys
For me, only nd filters allowed. All the other stuff it's only gonna ruin the sharpness, color rendition ecc. of the lens.
This filter is useful to shot tungsten balanced film during the day, but for "normal" c-41 film i wouldn't use it.
The filter for Tungsten is an 85, this is an 81 warming which is basically a stronger skylight filter
can you elaborate on why a heliopan warming filter can't outperform some nd filters?
Zenger warming filters and ND filters are two different things... ND filters block some ammount of light without varying the colours of the image.
The whole point is that it "ruins" the colour rendition of the lens.
The warming filter just makes everything look Portra.
Is that a LHSA edition M6?
Just wondering, where are some of the places you went to in this video (like the swimming pool place) ???
Whitechapel Gallery
Thank you so much
@@NegativeFeedback
Anyone know the name of the song at 1:40? i searched LSOW's soundcloud for it but can't find it
Makes me wonder: What filter would i need to shoot indoor with tungsten lights, with normal film ?
To shoot "normal" film (I'm assuming you're referring to daylight film as normal film) you'd use an 80A (3200 to 5500K) or an 80B (3400 to 5500 K) or an 80C (3600 to 5500K) filter on your lens. Basically the 80A should be sufficient.
@@Regsfoto Thanks a lot Steve !
Does it affect the metering too much?
with a 81B I'd add 1/3 stop to your metering.
Exactly the insight I needed - Thank you :) Short but insightful, valuable, mini-vid', (Of the catch you out sort) Thanks :) and to others :) please hit that little bell so you get email advises of any new vids' ;)
Your filter is going to record in camera slightly different wavelengths which
Won"t be reproducible in PS. Cuts through haze, not that you would see on 35 lens.
That LoMo film seems pretty good! Or just you lol
💪🏻
Nikon p510 great point shoot
2:19 where is that?
hi gergo
What gallery was that?
think its the Whitechapel gallery cos he was in Aldgate
What did i miss?
Please tell me the location of the derelict swimming pool it looks sick
Same, I wanna go round shooting some run down derelict places for some great photos
Does anyone know what the name of the track beginning at 1:40
Try other camera filters. I use warming and hundrends of others.
I been using film for over 40 years
A warming filter, makes things warmer. Hmmm.
DO! Hasselblad 500CM! please!
Which Leica do you have? And which do you recommend for my first Leica?
Sebastian Sanders it looks like an MP in my opinion, I could be wrong. How much are you trying to spend? Do you want a film or digital Leica? Also have you used a ranger finder before?
M6 Leica Historical Society of America special edition with black paint finish and black dot. He's got an MP winder on it (and a MP finder?). One of a shortlist of 3 dream cameras for me hence my keen eye.
@@BennettIsAmazing this one
@NegativeFeedback Was it the one at Richard Caplan?
BennettC I bought it on Facebook a while ago
I wish I can afford this expensive camera lol
2:22 oof
Am I the first one who watch this in Indonesia?
Quite likely
@@NegativeFeedback just got the notification when I'll go sleep cause it's 1 am in the morning already. Anyway I miss your old backsongs haha can't wait for the next week ⚡
Filters all the way. Photoshop is blasphemy. Better shoot with digital if you want to photoshop things.