How To Build A High Tensile Electric Fence
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- Опубликовано: 10 дек 2022
- In this video, I try to make building a high tensile electric fence as easy to understand as I can. Follow me through the steps of building a high tensile electric fence. Also, find out what you'll need to get the job done and... is electric fence really better than barbed wire? #fencebuilding #electricfence
#barbedwirefencing
• Why Isn't My Electric ...
@PlaneViewFarm
List of materials: planeview.farm 
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This was an excellent video. 🎉 will be installing based on this today. Greetings from Arkansas!
I totally understand the crooked post. That bothers me as well. New follower.
When you ran into and bounced off the fence 🤣
Nice fence, here in New Zealand, we use a lot of electric fences, for dividing paddocks, for dairy cows, and beef, some farmers use 3 H.T.wires [ two electric wires] wooden posts , 6 ft long, and strainers posts 7-8 ft driven in the ground, in softer ground, put a 8 x2 x 14 inch treated block in front of strainer [ under ground.
Thanks for the tips. Several common sense things to do but I hadn’t ever thought of. The cable clamps are one for sure.
Thanks! The cable clamps occurred to me walking through the hardware store.
Just found your channel in the process now of putting in fence post. I'm also in SOMO and this rain we finally got sure is helping with the process of driving them in. I appreciate the video. Very helpful. Gonna follow the channel.
Thanks! Good luck with your project!
Thx Andrew, this is one of the most comprehensive and detailed explanations of how and why high-tensile works. Thx. I think I'll go with the Timeless model of fencing.
Nicely done from southern Manitoba Canada. Good info
Great job! Excellent video and funny touches was entertaining.
Thank you!
We enjoyed watching your video!
Thank you!
Oh and trust me when I say, a twisted t-post would keep me up all night. So you and I are the only 2. 😆
If a twisted t-post bothered me, then I would never sleep. I hit with tractor, bull uses for scratching, car runs off road through fence, etc. I Bend it back and keep going. 😂😂😂
nice video
Great video. Thanks for the info.
What is your post configuration/spacing? Do you use tposts for the all the line posts or do you add wood every so often?
Thanks you! My t-posts are spaced about 24 feet apart. The only time I use anything other than a t-post is when the fence needs to make a turn or at the top and bottom of a significant elevation change. On a gradual slope, I just keep going with the t-posts.
Good job, and by 180 long ft. Of that fence materials and labor how much could be? Thanks.
I am also in MO down on the AR border. Just laying out so I can place my order. Why are you using steel t-posts instead of the newer plastic posts?
I have a lot of t-posts that were already here. I probably could have sold them and upgraded, but it was just more convenient. The timless posts are definitely the way to go if starting from scratch.
How often do you have grounding problems with the T posts and insulators? I saw one post that mentioned a specific issue with LockJawzs getting consistently grounded out with bird poop
It's staples because that's what is on the 50 pound box.
That's gotta be a misprint 🤣
very new to this so please forgive me.....with the wire tensioners in the middle of the wire run, will the electrical current travel thru the tensioners or....do you have to energize the wire on both sides of the tensioner. 🤔🤷....and yes, Im serious....im just stumped up here in Iowa. Must be the Canadian wild fire smoke.
No apologies needed. The inline strainer is galvanized metal, just like the wire. So, the current passes through without any issues. Only one supply wire is needed. The only problem that you could have would be if there's too little tension on the wire, causing a loose connection. Even then, it's unlikely to be a problem. Good question!
@@PlaneViewFarm thanks man. I am so stumped with this. I have the post insulators on the end posts and thought my tension springs would fit into them. nope. so now I guess I put the tension spring with tensioner inline together and use that as my guide for tension on the other 6 strands?
@NickKnox7 Yes, it is very common to do just that. In the end, the best way to do it is the way that's easiest for you. If something doesn't work where you thought it would, move it to where it does work. Keep going, you'll get it figured out 👍
Maybe I'm over thinking this (and probably so) but I'm wanting to install 7 wires. My question is will I need 7 black insulators per corner post per side such that at 1 corner posts I'll have 7 going one direction and 7 going the other direction? And then install a jumper to keep things electrified?
There's a few different ways to go with that based on what you're trying to accomplish.
1. You can terminate each wire with an insulator and then use jumpers to connect them, as you mentioned.
2. You can use a single end insulator to make the inside turn (this is what I usually do). www.dareproducts.com/products/electric-fence-insulators/corner
3. Or, for an outside corner, you can use a corner post bracket/lag or some type of tube insulator. kencove.com/fence/detail.php?code=TT-824731
The last two allow you to keep one continuous wire and reduces the number of insulators needed. Hope this helps!
@@PlaneViewFarm excellent info! Appreciate it brother. Your videos and the humor are superb. We are just north of you some in Iowa. Take care and thanks again!
Im new to using electric fence, my question is should each strand end at some point without touching the wire where you start ? And run 1 single wire down touching each hot wire
If I'm understanding you correctly, yes. You just terminate the line at the end of the run with an insulator. A jumper wire provides power to each strand that you want energized. I hope that helps you.
@@PlaneViewFarm yes, thank you..
How many earth spikes needed on a 25 hectors of land
3 will be enough, spaced 10 feet apart.
Barbed wire is more popular ONLY because it's cheaper and mostly easier, point blank period! It's NOT better! I'd rather have an electric fence as he describes in this video.
This is probably the cheapest fence to install but still gets the job done
Absolutely!
To pull top strand first to get post straight is not true. Run bottom stand drive post then rest of wire. Even if you drive a post at 30 degrees the tension of the wire will bring all in line perfectly. I am only a contractor so don't know what talking about. That wire should have at least 2k lbs of pull at install and will stretch over the next few days then remain tight as it warms or cool dure to outside temps
I've done it both ways. I like working top down better. I'm curious about the 2000 lbs of pull though, Kencove says no more than 250 for high tensile wire.
@@PlaneViewFarm the 2k is Oklahoma wire specks it will relax back to the 250 to 300 as every thing falls in place. The wire on top first is just putting it in your way. Ya fine for the little you do but you start doing 1/2 mile plus a day it's trouble especially if barb