Direct-Injection Engines - How to Protect Yourself from Valve Gunk
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- autoTRADER.ca investigates the relationship between direct-injection engines and "valve gunk", and what you can do to protect yourself. Presented by Justin Pritchard
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Sorry, none of your tips prevent "valve gunk" on direct injection engines. The cause is completely attributed to the lack of "valve wash" from port injection, as you stated, and the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system. The PCV system takes all the vapours created in the engine, blow by etc, and sucks them into the intake manifold (after the throttle valve). These vapours contain several components but basically are combustion gases and oils vapours. Without the "valve wash" that port injection provides, the vapour deposits are what "gum" up the intake valves. There is no service or maintenance scheme that can prevent the build up. In fact many times there is not even a way to reverse the affects without a major engine disassembly or head replacement. Only a "catch can" will reduce or eliminate the build up. A catch can or Air/oil separator, intercept the vapours and condense the oil from the vapours before they enter the intake manifold. Again sorry, your wrong and there is only one solution. Yes good maintenance will ensure a good running engine which ideally produces less blow by etc, but really maintenance is not the solution for DI engines. Factory installed PCV catch cans are. (or aftermarket for the cars that don't have them)
EXCELLENT information !!! Thanks.
But on my car I simply disconnected the PCV hose from the air intake, added a plug onto the hole left open on the air intake (to prevent a vacuum leak), and let the PCV hose dangle, allowing the oil vapors to escape out into the atmosphere. Then once a year when I need to get my emissions test done I put everything back to the way it was temporarily just for the test, then disconnect the PCV hose once again. That's what they used to do on the cars from the 50's before emissions systems/hoses were added to cars. The oil vapors from the crankcase just went out into the air.
Ya that works, just venting to atmosphere. There are "decorative" and functional filters that you can adapt to the valve cover for a better look, prevent junk going up the hose (if that's possible) and may be less messy. Some cars may be affected by the loss of unmetered air though, not really sure on that one though.
I run catch cans on everything and I try to make sure I hit operating temp, seems to do the trick
Robert Kohut nailed it. Thought I was the only one cringing and raising a brow at what this guy was saying.
If your vehicle has an inter cooler It acts like a catch can. but it has no way to dispose of the blow by gunk. I drilled a small hole (1/8") in the high pressure side (after the air passes through it) This will let the gunk drain AND I spray intake cleaner through this hole while the engine is at high idle. That cleans the valves and does not affect any of the sensors in the intake system. I empty the entire can in small bursts so far it has done a very good job. My plugs last longer and I no longer get misfire codes.
All three suggestions, which are good maintenance practice anyways, will have almost no effect at the problem at hand.
An oil catch can, more specifically a passenger side catch can will filter out any oil being fed back into the intake to be burned off and significantly help in keeping those valves clean.
Nonsense. Sorry but it is.
Every answer for direct injection, requires the owner to buy something, or pay someone to fix it. Wonderful technology
Solution: Buy a Toyota because they use both port and DI
Or.... get and EV
you forgot to mention to use a high-grade full synthetic motor oil which doesn't leave as much gunk behind as do conventional oils.
The best fix to gdi issues is trade it in for a car with dual injection.
😂 true dat!
Just install an oil catch-can
Im afraid i agree this.
Yeah and then go back to carburators and then trade it for one horse , seems like you like 1806 transportation
Don't agree using a top tier gas, high octane gas used in standard run of the mill engines has shown to have poor fuel economy and higher emissions due to the lower internal compression. Install an oil catch can and perform a front and back induction service twice a year should keep things in check. For the rest of your fuel system fuel additives every oil change should be keep your injectors and upper cylinder nice and clean.
STP valve cleaner works amazing. It is a 9 minute spray that you into your valves and I actually took before and after pictures and it worked very well the first time. I also installed an Oil catch separator that I empty every time I do an oil change and that removes a lot of harmful oil residue that creates valve gunk. These maintance tips are absolutely necessary for the new cars with GDI and they do work.
An oil catch can will really help slow down build up on the intake valves.
Not rly. It helps ONLY on engines with not so tight cylinder bearings allowing blow by effect. On tight bearings or well maintained engines it's useless. I know because I've spent money on one and installed in my own car with direct injection and after 1 year of hard driving sometimes above 240km/h there was not a single oil drop inside. It was perfect clean. FA20 Engine 5W20 MOTUL oil. 45K km
Petrezen1982 Was your can baffled? There was no moisture or anything? Watch this video (it is a high performance vehicle and port injection) look how much moisture he pulls out. ruclips.net/video/HUQnx40ddX8/видео.html
Petrezen1982 You mean piston rings right?
@ AnthonyJ350 I agree - but cheap eBay ones are useless. A baffled or filtered type one definitely helps.
Blocking the EGR helps just as much again, and is very cheap.
Both those will help prevent it getting worse, but if it's already gunky, not going to get rid of it.
The only way to reverse the gunk build up is water methanol injection (you can run just distilled water) which will steam the build up off the valves and some of the inlet too.
Those are my 3 tips and will work a bunch better than changing oil, plugs, and air filter!
I've seen more catch cans being used on turbo charged vehicles like my f150 with the eco boost.
At a time in history when the combustion engine is almost ready for life support (EV's, Hydrogen, etc . . .), direct injection is going to set it back decades in terms of reliability in the mind of consumers and pave the way for the shift away from the combustion engine. We have reached the point where emission requirements have taken priority over longevity and reliability, both of which peaked over a decade ago.
how sad is this truth
EVs suck.
Screw it, I'm buying an old Corolla hatchback. I don't want anything to do with gdi.
You forgot that consumer buy what they want ;)
And actually they dont want 800kg of lithium in a car that won't last 10 years.
So your prothetic shit is incorrect
@@bioshockzoa who are you even talking to?
what is the use of saving fuel if the end result costs you more to maintain than the fuel would ever have cost?
It creates more power and burns cleaner, but yeah major flaws to be fixed with new GDI technology
The liberals don't care about how much we have to pay to maintain our cars.
Keeps Progressive liberals happy.
Bill Ryland Liberals Suck.
Using a RX catch can and clean side separator since new on my 17 Silverado High Country 6.2L and it calls for premium fuel anyway and you wouldn't believe the gunk that can catches so worth the investment on any direct injection and it doesn't void the warranty.
And you have clean valves now ?? Are you sure ??
Toyota is now using dual injection. It has direct injection for the main fuel and retains the intake runner injection also.. blends the two for best if both.
kens97sto171 so is ford
Which models? This sounds like a good idea. the fuel cleans up the intake valves
MY GS350 has it. Very good idea.
My BRZ has it ( same as Toyota 86)
more issues nd injector to fail meaning more cels
Using extremely clean synthetic oil could help..
Pennzoil Ultra Platinium is made with natural gas which makes it a lot cleaner than other synthetics..
Late to the party but I just got a v6 Caddy and I'm learning about all this stuff. Port injection keeps valves clean by spraying crud off the valve with fuel, but where does that crud go? Directly into the combustion chamber. Seems to me like DI would keep that crud in the valve port since you're not spraying it off into the chamber. I think taking the intake apart every once in awhile for a cleaning is a lot better that replacing piston rings. Then again, it sounds like the PCV system plays a large part in gunk build-up.
This guy does a very good job explaining the unmentionable problem of GDI engines.
Struggling to comprehend how spark plugs, oil changes, and air filter changes serve to delay the build up of crud on your intake valves?
Let me shed some light:
1.). Old, worn, mis-gapped, and carbon coated sparkplugs like to misfire when intake manifold vacuum is low, as it is when accelerating. Misfiring plugs allow unburned fuel to wash the cylinder walls, and contaminate the lubricating oil. Fuel contaminated oil quickly loses its viscosity, allowing it become more easily entrained in the crankcase blow by gasses that are directed to the intake system via the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system.
RESULT: WORN PLUGS CONTRIBUTE TO VALVE GUNK BUILD-UP.
2.). Infrequent oil changes allow the oil's viscosity to thin, as the polymer additives that are intended to provide "multi-viscosity" properties, break down with age. The "thinning of the oil" allows a greater amount of it to be swept through the PCV system, in a similar way as described with worn sparkplugs above.
RESULT:. OLD, THIN OIL ALLOWS INCREASED AMOUNTS OF IT TO BE DIRECTED AT INTAKE VALVES, WHERE IT COLLECTS AS CRUD.
3.). Infrequent air filter changes allow intake manifold vacuum to climb as the filters become clogged. In turn, high manifold vacuum entices crankcase gasses to flow past the clearances between the valve stems and valve guides, and onto the back sides of the valves, causing increased build-up. A poorly maintained vehicle often leads to the combination of overlooked sparkplug changes and oil changes, in addition to overdue air filter changes. Thus, an exacerbated effect occurs when high manifold vacuum acts upon the reduced viscosity oil, thereby undermining the effectiveness of the valve guide seals.
RESULT: INCREASED ACCUMULATION OF VALVE GUNK BUILD-UP
There is NOTHING you can do to prevent carbon build up with DI. The build up comes from reversion of the combustion gasses combined with PCV. You can slow it down but not prevent it. That is why a lot of cars are coming out with both DI and Multiport FI.
Catch can....
@@231mac who can install a catch can on my Mazda6 Skyactive 2.5L DI engine? Will avoid warranty? Please let me know before valves are gunked
@@RR-ev3po The install with most Cath cans is very simple and there are plenty of install videos on RUclips. I've never heard of a catch can voiding a warranty, unless the owner never emptied it and caused engine damage.
Your best way to prevent gunk on the intake valves is synthetic oil. It requires a higher temperature before it starts to coke. All valves in a internal combustion engine have some oil leak down from the valve stem which moves to the the actual valve seat area. A synthetic oil will resist coking from the high heat of combustion, where a regular oil will coke at a lesser heat producing more gunk on the intake valve near the opening causing restriction of air to the engine making it run like crap. Oil can also get into the intake plenum through PVC systems and settling towards the back engine cylinders intake valves producing deposits on those cylinders.
YEP....Oil causes the issue. Good oil helps mitigate the issue. Gimmicks like catch cans etc have more drawbacks than benefits. If your catch-can is not perfectly sealed, you'll have bigger problems than dirty valves. The PCV system is calibrated to run at vacuum. Better keep that vacuum in place with that catch can.
-Top Grade Fuel
-Oil Catch Can
-Water Methanol Injection
-Go wide open throttle twice a day (on ramps are perfect for this)
Low volatility / NOACK oil (check for MB 229.5 spec if you can't readily find NOACK numbers as that's
EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) and PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) systems depend on the vacuum pressure generated by the intake manifold thus drain all their contents into the intake manifold which touches the intake valves anyway. If poorly burnt gasoline and carbon soot from the EGR get recirculated back into the intake manifold along with the blow-by air-fuel mixture and aerosolized engine oil droplets from the PCV system via vacuum hoses then it will not matter what gasoline or engine maintenance you do. The intake valves will foul regardless due to the EGR and PCV system recycling exhaust gases and crankcase pressure into the intake manifold. An oil catch can installed inline into the PCV system will help collect aerosolized oil droplets from the crankcase mitigating intake valve carbon build-up but not eliminate it entirely. Although illegal, venting the EGR directly to atmosphere will help protect your intake valves from fouling. Best advice is to forsake new GDI (gasoline direct injection) engines completely and purchase engines with dual systems that have both port fuel injection and direct fuel injection or just go for port fuel injection systems period. Old technology, although outdated, is still functional in the 21st century. Newer is not always better.
You're wrong about catch cans on daily drivers. Hence why their is NO scientific data. It's a con that can make things worse.
That gunk as you call it is blow by from the crankcase, those oil vapors go back to the intake manifold, a catch can will work but needs a one way valve, too much vacuum in the oil pan can reduce oil on cylinder walls, which will cause rings to wear out, and you wont know until a teardown.
Forth tip: leave your vehicle with direct injected engine parked in your driveway permanently to prevent gunk buildup.
Better yet don't buy a car withdirect injection.
Or buy an older vehicle with a trouble free sefi port system
I agree with the plugs especially for the 100K plus replacement intervals. I have 2 Ford vehicles with the EcoBoost DI V6. I changed one set around 12K....new plugs as part of a tune. Looking good still with around 30K on the current set. Changed the other vehicles set the other day at just under 72K. Very pronounced carbon buildup. My other reason for changing more often is to reduce the risk of a plug getting seized in the spark plug well at 100K. Plugs air filter and if accessible fuel filter are three fairly easy and not too overly expensive preventative maintenance items. For the most part they are also fairly easy to complete yourself without paying dealer mark up.
Main cause is using an oil with a low flash point. What builds up on the valves is oil fumes not oil itself. A catch can is a band aid solution to the problem. Some brands don't have a lot of issues such as DI Chevy engines because they induce a swirl which has proven to keep the intake valves cleaner NOT clean. BMW 335 drivers found out back in 2010 that using a high flash point oil reduced almost completely valve oil fume buildup..I hate being a beta tester for the car industry!
What oil would you recommend? Motul or amsoil?
@@gester27 Amsoil or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum
I installed a catch can on my GDI engines early on. I catch a lot of gunk in the can. I also use CRC intake cleaner at every oil change. I use quality synthetic oil and a factory filter every 4500 miles. So far all is well. Kia and a Buick VVT. One has 30,000 one has 40000. Boroscope shows clean valves. I empty the catch cans every 1000 miles.
troy mahan you were the first person that mentioned your use of synthetic oil.
I have a Sonata 2.0T now. 100K miles, no issues or performance dips.
I’ve only ever used full synthetic, but it has no catch can. Does the synthetic slow the buildup process at all?? Or is the catch can the key?
Clean and fresh plugs and top tier gas, please explain how these "indirectly" help valve gunk? I can see a quality motor oil, that may limit oil mist going into the ERG valve, would help keep what does make its way to the backside of the intake valve would help.
I'm not a mechanic, but I can attest to what is said. I thinks it's in relation to knock. They also recommend drilling out the PCV to make the hole a tad bigger as well.
I hear a lot of discussions about the relative merits of 'catch cans'. My question is, if they are so effective, why aren't they routinely used by the manufacturers? I don't know whether they work or not ... I'm just asking the question.
I wondered that as well, and after reading many posts on different forums for my vehicle, the consensus seems to be that manufactures know any problems related to buildup will arise well after the car is out of warranty, so they don’t want to spend the money to fit cars with them from the factory. But I don’t know if that’s accurate. I’m thinking of installing one on my 2020 Mustang Ecoboost but don’t want to void my warranty.
I prevent carbon buildup by not starting my engine. I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado I bought new in 2015 and have only started it 28x since new. When it is running I put the pedal to the medal at every red light and stop sign. By not starting my engine often I have 285 low miles on my 2015 pickup. Who says you have to use catch cans or run solvents thru the throttle body when all you gotta do is not run your engine. This is why I paid $51k for my GDI Chevy. I want quality for that kind of money and not have to worry about carbon buildup after 1000 miles on my $51,000 truck. Dont be a fool people and ruin your $50k-$75k pickups by starting them up every day and going over 1000 miles. Be smart, spend your hard earned money on an expensive GDI truck like I did then park it. They look good parked and carbon-free. Dont let another big car maker bullshit you anymore. These engines are designed to save our planet and stop global warming. Do your part and buy one
Some is caused by crank case oil vapor return into cylinders. Put a catch can and filter in that line .
Maintenance should be done for every car. Top Tier Fuel will help with the injectors andding a catch can will help but not cure the problem. I have a Lincoln MKS Eco-boost sedan. I have a catch can installed. If you have a Ford Eco-boost in a sedan or truck install of a catch can is very simple to do and you don't need the most expensive one you can buy. Mine was $30 on Amazon with the features I wanted. A bottom drain valve etc. Don't use the breather that comes with it. They reduce vacuum and can mess up your smog check.
Next he will be suggesting to inflate the tyres to correct pressure.
The only way these tips reduce the amount of gunk build up is by reducing the likelihood and amount of ring blow by, an increase in blow by increases the oil vapours that come out of the crankcase and deposit on the valves. The only real way to prevent gunk buildup is to fit an oil catch can even on a non turbo or diesel engine . Some cars have factory catch cans but they are usually of limited help.
I'm surprised he didn't mention a catch can between the crankcase vent and the instake manifold.
CRC Valve Cleaner is the solution but don't follow instructions on can.
2017 Sonata new got 32mpg combined. At 25K now gets
26mpg combined. After cleaning, returned to 32mpg and sets you back
into the seat @ WOT, so it works. Bring car to operating temp., spray
intake (down flow from any MAF) with full spray at 2500rpm. Engine will
choke down and almost die, turn off at this point. Let heat soak for 1
hour. Start and drive for a couple miles and repeat twice (3 times
total). Engine will crank longer before starting and will rattle and
ping first mile of first cleaning. This method only uses 1/3 can for all
three heat soaks. The initial pinging proves that carbon was breaking
away after each heat soak. No codes set and 5K mile later (30K). Blow-by
from crankcase increases with each acceleration and that is why highway
use delays carbon buildup. I am a lead foot with WOT used frequently. I
will do one heat soak every oil change from now on. GDI problem
handled.
Bro..can u do a vid on this?
@ 1:38, man you almost gave me a heart attack. I almost thought the "can" was intake cleaner. I'm thinking, man how can he put up with the smell and talk lol...😅 😅 😅
Use seafoam aerosol once a year, that's what I do. Plus if you have a flex fuel run the higher ethenal blended fuels, they burn cleaner than regular gas so the gunk won't build up as quick or at all.
Screw that. My friend had enough issues with DI. He installed a water injection system. His problem went away! He turns it on every 30 days for one tank. His valves are spotless. So is his pistons... He also uses RXP gas kicker. It removes carbon and prevents carbon build up. To start with...
I might add DI vs Port injection. Is not even close to the same. One uses high pressures
None of this will help if it does not touch the valves
But it will prevent them happening earlier
None of those suggestions will make a bit of difference what will work is an oil catch can and for boosted applications i.e.: turbo or supercharged, a dual oil catch can is a must.
I have a 2013 range rover sport supercharged, dealer just put in brand new engine and I still have 1 more year warranty, once that expires I was planning on adding an oil catch can, since I can't alter anything before that, but what do you mean dual? 2 in series or parallel?
@@unprofessionalmechanic8466 He means one for the 'clean' side and one for the 'dirty' side. And I would at least put on on the 'dirty' side now.
These tips help with other things, but not really for carbon build-up. Ford EcoBoost engines had major issues with this buildup when they were only DI before dual-injected. During the 3.5's development torture tests in the F-150 (there are videos of it on RUclips) they ran the piss out of it. Constant, prolonged redlining and brutal operating conditions. When they tore it down at an auto show the valves virtually had no carbon build-up at all. I think the best way to prevent gunk is routine Italian Tuneups in combination with quality oil and gas if choosing not to use a catch can. Driving an engine hard for long periods of time will make it so carbon doesn't have time to deposit on the valves.
Thanks for sharing!
Best way to reduce valve deposits:
1. Run quality Syn oil at reasonable oil change intervals
2. Oil catch can
3. Combustion chamber cleaner used occasionally
4. Engine oil flush used occasionally
5. Use valve cleaner spray occasionally or walnut blasting.
No information to help remove the buildup or stop it from forming. The information in this video only helps by not making a bad situation worse.
But the subject is about prevention, plus this the most logical advice I've seen especially for brand new cars.
I don't think this applies to the current Ford 5.0 engine since it has both standard location injectors AND direct injection. Would that be correct?
hard to tell as Ford does brag about it in their specs, some have both, if your car is new, you maybe lucky, ask your mechanic "how many injectors does my car has ?" . If double the number of cylinders your in luck :)
1) Catch can's will HELP (not eliminate) filter the oily vapors which CONTRIBUTE to oily deposits on the valves
2) VVT will result in soot on valves regardless of catch cans. This is typically less harmful than oily gunk/depositys
3) in addition to catch cans, I say go bigger turbo, tune, water/meth injection+port injection and this will keep your valves clean. But hey, that's just me.
Great Video, i have a 2009 Odyssey v6 3.5l with 200 kilometres! I just replaced my spark plugs, timing belt, and water pump at 160k and they were cleaner and looked great!.
I was going to look into a 2018-2019 Oddy for replacement but it has those terrible DI as mentioned as Earth Dreams DI engine.
I think I will keep driving this until it dies! my mechanic said see you at 400k then!
Have a GDI car with 353k miles . Seems to run ok never cleaned intake valves. Just started to use valvoline restore and protect engine oil. Change oil every 5k miles with full synthetic oil. Have used lucus fuel additive since new as well . Add 5 ounces every other fill up
One massive thing you forgot: Driving the cars shorter than 10mins at a time, REALLY increases carbon buildup. I had a buddy with a 2007 Passat with the 2.0t. He drove about 5,000 miles a year. He lived just a bit from work, engine temp gauge never reached in the middle. 40,000 miles later, just a couple years ago, he had an engine light, with misfiring, he noticed it was worse on fuel and it ran a bit rough. What I did was take it on a roadtrip across the country. For the first 2 hours, I locked the transmission into 3rd gear so it was revving at about 4,500 rpm on the highway. I filled it up and left it in D. Engine light went away, power is restored and fuel economy is better than he has ever seen it. Carbon will burn off, the combustion chamber just needs to be piping hot to do it.
True, engines need to reach proper operating temperature to function properly. Another article I read stated that its good to drive DI cars hard sometimes although not sure if doing that will help remove soot from the valves
you filled it up with?
That's how they actually do it in Norway, put an old diesel in 2nd gear and drive it hard to get no tickets
In speed we trust.
Italian TUNE-UP :D :D
Forget about the video, here are the solutions
1. Catch can
2. Fully synthetic oil
3. Pay a TRUSTED mechanic $700 every 40k miles to do walnut blasting (ask for before and after pics if you dont trust the guy) as most of them will spray a little seafoam and charge you full amount
A guy can’t help but wonder what kind of toxic spew is coming out of the tailpipe when they spray that chemical in your engine.
Both my GDI cars generally see a service every three months because my other half and I live a distance from our workplaces so both cars do some considerable commuting. As yet, not real issues with either car and the kilometres are getting up there...One car at 160K...the other at nearly 90K...
The EGR makes it dirty the EGR system make sure your EGR is clean maybe there should be a some kind of a filter on the EGR
WARNING: Don't by a vehicle with a GDI engine.
I made this mistake purchasing a Kia 2.0 liter GDI Theta engine (used in both Kia and Hyundai).
144,000 km and the engine self destructed. And this even with regular maintenance.
I have also heard the GDI engines with turbos are extremely susceptible to carbon build up. And that using a cleaner can also be very bad because if a deposit lets go it can damage the turbo.
Not to mention that the chemicals in the cleaners can damage the turbos by striping the bearings of its lubricants.
Christian_Patriot GM addresses this problem on their GDI engines by closing the intake valve before the injector fires, this eliminates the problem of valve deposits that many other manufacturers have. My brother has a chevy Cruze turbo GDI with over 200,000 miles and I scoped it with my bore camera and found minimal deposits on the intake valves. The car still runs great and gets 40mpg! Chevy baby! Buy American!
How do you do that..cha nge the timing??
Throw more money at the problem! Amazing advice.
Doesn't mention catch-cans.
@Porky WithAPistol They do not void your warranty
@Porky WithAPistol Well that was your first mistake, buying a KIA or Hyundai. I bought an F150, added a catch can. Ford sells them on their website. Got 2k miles in with the can and it already had some in it.
@@CedroCron I do both.
Steve Cedrone I own a 2018 Accord 2.0 with GDI....would you prioritize the cleaner over the catch can....or both???
Egr valves and crankcase breather valves are to blame!
german sheperd yes but it does increase mileage and keep pollutants out of the air. In the past they used to breath ventilation directly into the air.
Your right, one false system causing issues to another crap band-aid system #egr, build better engines from the start and cleaner we can be #e85
that's why a catch-can is important. It stops those oily vapors from coating the intake valves.
it doesn't "stop" oily vapors. Variable valve timing and valve overlap also lets exhaust gases (especially soot) back into the combustion chamber bypassing the catch can. I have 2 catch cans and was still getting soot (not as much gunk). Started spraying water/meth and aux fuel port injection and that has helped A LOT!
@@QuantumRift I don't know why that concept is so hard for some people to accept, but you nailed it. In the winter months I collect over a liter of water, oil, and gas in my catch can system, all of which would contaminate the crank case oil, and coke up the intake valve.
Said NOTHING ...
Saeef Bey -- I agree. None of the "advice" given will help with the freakin PCV system spraying its oily mist into the intake manifold, which will slowly build up on the intake valves.
Its the PCV and EGR systems that cause the build up. Idiots. 🤦🏻♂️
Oil catch can, EGR delete, and water meth injection are the way to go.
If diesel, DPF delete and cat delete (or high flow cat)
Forgot to mention an oil catch can to help prevent deposits.
Use less evaporate oil like amsoil stuff & less SAPS oil > The best I found is
Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30
Amsoil Euro 5w-30
Penzoil ultra platinum has a high flash point...very good oil
Yes. Oil with lower volatility can reduce oil vapours.
Good gasoline? Yes.
Synthetic oil? Yes.
Sparkplugs? NO. (better/full combustion does not help intake valves).
I can't speak to plug change for GDI engine as I don't have one. I do have an 8 year old port injection engine which the manufacturer says to change plugs at 105 K miles. I changed mine at 65K and wow what a difference. Smoother, quieter, and more oomph. I just didn't notice the decreased performance over time.
Following your maintenance from the booklet won’t stop build up also. With turbo application different oil weight sometimes better than recommended. Since recommended is for fuel economy not engine protection.
Why can't you vent the gases to the outside air to prevent this? I know it is not allowed because of emissions, but is it possible?
Here's a thought : the car manufacturers are well aware of this problem,so how come they don't install catch cans at the factory and save the consumers big headaches down the road ?
Get rid of EGR and install a catch can is what you need to prevent valve gunk in a GDI engine.
You can get a mechanic to clean it or you can get a can of carburetor cleaner and fog it old school. Cleans everything downstream from the throttle plate. It can also clean and fix a stuck open EGR valve. Spray for a minute, let it soak for 10 minutes. Repeat 2 times. Fog.
I have a catch can on both my new vehicles and only use a top tier fuel
What do spark plugs have to do with the backs of the valves? Also,check the air in the spare!
Good point. And Spark plugs last 100K these days , I am not going to change them early when I could "just check the air in the spare" HA HA. I use a full synthetic oil that has a low volatility percentage , it is called NOACK percentage. Some people mention a Catch-can but then someone has to remember to empty it.
I must say that all your tips (besides the cleaning service at the end) have ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with carbon build up in the intake and valves. The carbon build-up is caused by oil return from the crankcase in combination with gases from the EGR system. All these parameters are irrelevant to the "tips" you recommend. Your tips are applicable to a good maintenance of the engine, but will have no effect on carbon build up.
I second that.
Agreed. The title should just read "follow service intervals" 😂
Another great explanation more for f150 you're honest and have the gift to explain the hard please Don't stop
Don't belittle tire press. That.cost ford& Fstone m.M&. Deaths
With direct injection you will be changing your engine before you need to change your spark plugs
What u really need to do is start early on using CRC GDI valve cleaner alone with BG FUEL additive.the valves r already gunked up bye 10,000 miles really bad,I'm a KIA tech and see it all the time because most of the engines r GDI .and by 30,000 miles you'll problem need a manual cleaning of the valves bye removing the intake,thats if u want good performance and idle like the vehicle was new.
I think a lot of this is over worrying. Yes, GDI is a bad design, but not all cars will suffer as bad as others. I believe it is in the tolerances and this varies from car to car even from the same engines and make. My Ford Focus has 70,000 miles on it and i didn't do anything different than any other car I had previously. Hardly changed the oil on time. It still runs as well as the day I bought it and its fuel mileage is the same too.
love how in the video the person getting gas grabbed regular... and this is why his fuel injectors were clogged early . Chuckled pretty good lol
YOU ARE SO FAR OFF. USE AN AIR OIL/SEPERATOR OR CATCH CAN TO CATCH BLOW BY FROM THE PCV VALVE BEFORE IT'S INTRODUCED INTO THE INTAKE SYSTEM. EVERY OTHER OIL CHANGE USE A PRODUCT LIKE CRC GDI INTAKE VALVE AND TURBO CLEANER. YOU'LL NEVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT GUNK BUILDUP OR HAVING TO TAKE YOUR VEHICLE TO THE DEALER FOR A WALNUT SHELL BLAST/VALVE CLEANING
Why hasnt anyone mentioned walnut blasting as a solution to build up
You would need to remove the intake manifold to access the back of the intake valves.
benjaminwayneb . Yes that is obvious . Still anyone mechanical can easily do this
mystic1754 . There are no real "solutions" to this problem . Ford on the other hand has added a 3rd injector before the intake valve as a solution
Because it works
Have you heard of routine intake cleaning? that's all you need... once a year or every 6 months if you drive really hard or do a lot of short trips. Catch cans don't work most of the time, that's why they do not come installed from factory.
Great information on maintaining a clean direct injection engine 🙌
Hey this is great advice for the 1990s. I don't think car dealers distribute maintenance schedules anymore. I have scoured the internet for a maintenance schedule for my Honda Accord and come up empty-handed. Everything just says do what the onboard computer tells you to do. And I doubt very much that it's going to tell you to change your plugs or get your injectors cleaned. I did find an online manual for my 2019 Honda Accord it is 500 pages long and has nothing in it about a maintenance schedule. A manual that is 500 pages long is basically about as good as no manual at all.
This is all about just teaching you how to use a computer. It's more like the five volumes of operating instructions I got on my old Windows operating system in the early 1990s then a practical, serious guide to using these damn new cars and their stupid encrusted valves and their accompanying oil dilution problems which aren't even mentioned here.
Some cars, Toyota, some Subarus, with others to follow, have dual injection system for that very purpose. 1. port injection 2. direct injection. the computer decides when to use each.
Problem solved.
Catch Cans can help reduce oil and water vapor form mixing with the stuff from the EGR system in the intake system use two catch cans in series and use 10w 30 motor oil will help to.
The only difference between grades of gasoline is that the lower octane gas has more additives blended in to slow down the rate of ignition. That's it.
You forgot step 4 get rid of the egr valve and also use a water/meth injection. Also step 5 dont buy a direct injection car.
There's no explanation as to why, but this is solid advice 👍
Great Educational Video! Saved for my library! ;)
Every direct injection engine, especially if modified, must have an air/oil separator installed in to catch the blowby that coats the intake valves. IAG makes one for $400
very good advice especially the oil change interval it should be shorter than the owner s manual ( I would say around 3 000 miles) this would be that the oil will contain less soot when passing through the pcv system because it is the pcv system that recirculates the oil vapors of the crankcase onto the intake valves... less dirty vapors les accumulation my 2 cents...
Thanks for the Video. It really help new driver like me.
This is why ford added port injection too. Best of both worlds
Northern Rider
Toyota as well....
When did they start doing dual injection?
Do you recommend some sort of catch can to trap oil and water vapours from the crankcase ventilation system before it's recirculated back to the intake? Or are these mostly for turbo engines?
Do your homework. They seem to work, but not sure if they're needed or not. Depends on the application. Recommend checking owner forums for the specific model you're after. If it was my car, I would add one.
Congrats on being one of the first if not the first car reviewer to tackle this "dirty secret" pun intended. Toyota was one of the first to recognize the problem and are preventing it with their newest engines. I see Ford has started copying Toyota. Funny that none of them offer catch can kits for their problem engines. I didn't expect it from VW given their recent history but from Ford I was hopeful.
Ford's newer DI engines do dump some fuel on the valves to help keep them clean. I think a few VW engines are now doing the same.
Which engines, The eco boost ones?
Totally agree. Only thing touching valves should be clean air...& pcv system allows those oil vapors / blow by back in to what should be clean. I'm not sure where egr comes back in, but have never seen anything but disabling that:)
As you can see by the other comments none of the suggestions u mentioned would keep a DI engine intake valves or head clean,
They are good things to do to a car but not tho keep the intake clean
I tell you what works a class action lawsuit,make these thieves pay for their idot engineering fools
I just stopped worrying about it.
This video could be shortened to about 1 minute...intake cleaning via chemical cleaning. The rest is mostly not true if at all.
Catch can. Don't be a cheap ass when buying one. You can expect to spend $150 and up for a quality can. Stay away from the cheap garbage on eBay. Do your research, and make sure the can has a mechanism to remove oil from the air that passes through it. And if you run one, get familiar with it and how often you should drain it.
Seafoam, CVC , these are 2 top valve cleaners that can be done approx 25000 miles and are $20 or so , I use them and recomend them, look them up on RUclips, odds are you can find a video on RUclips for your vehicle
110,000 miles on a DI engine with no problems. They're not meant to be driven by old grannies.
James Last ...
So no other special effort other than driving it hard?
Best solve, don’t buy a car has that type of engine.
Such as ?
@@dane2469 Hyundai, Kia... etc
I bought my ‘19 Kia Forte BECAUSE it has port injection.
I'm with you. Both our cars got port inj.
All these tips won't prevent carbon built up. The most effective way to prevent that is to install a mechanical filtration oil catch can so no oil vapor goes back inside the intake system which is the main and only reason for carbon building up. Thabks
Great info/video, thanks!!
I just bought a new Mazda 6, just found out Skyactive engine has direct injection...now I have second thoughts...
I have a mazda 6 2014 and now a 2019 3. Great cars. Use CRC’s valve and turbo cleaner as directed and there’s no problem. I use it at every oil change. Gas milage is unbelievable on these cars.
mazda for now havent had any major problem with thier DI engines
@@youssefbayoumy5335 .thank for replying . Ii received this answer directly from Mazda, regarding intake valve buildup. Not sure if it assures you, but it doesnt convince me 100% :) "Carbon build up is a natural byproduct of burning gasoline and happens with all vehicles over time. There are many factors that play into this build up, such as Octane level (higher octane burns hotter and cleaner), brand of gas, elevation, driving style just to name a few. I would not say the motor is prone to buildup, as the buildup occurs naturally due to internal combustion of gasoline"
@@RR-ev3po it eventually does happen but not as much as in hyundai..my dad has a hyundai tucson 1.6 GDI engine with only 120 000 km and its burning A LOT of oil and the catalytic converter broke but there was no smoke which makes me sure its only because of carbon build up,,might this be the reason for oil burning?
@@youssefbayoumy5335 my rav4 2006 , 2.4 Lengine VVTI ( not DI !!) with 110k mi is burning a quart of oil every 1000mi. It is the pistons rings premature wearoff allowing oil to leak. That is a known issue with that engine, your dad ' s Tucson could have the same. Try adding a thiker oil (5w40 ) and if it stops, thats the same problem As i've read, gunk deposits on valves of DI engines have many symptoms but not oil burning. Anyway, good luck and thanks for replying