Perfect Wall Review - A system to Build an efficient house!
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- What's the "Perfect Wall" system for a house? One that can stand for 500 years? One that can be built anywhere in the US with amazing efficiency, indoor air quality, and comfort? Join me for a tour of a house we built in Austin, TX utilizing the "Perfect Wall" system developed by Joe Lstiburek & Building Science Corporation.
Architecture by Rauser Design. Construction by Risinger Homes.
-Matt Risinger
www.MattRisinger.com
Austin, TX
I love that you can see the framing inside...
I can watch this video over and over again! Simple, elegant, smart and healthy. Why get complicated! Thanks for sharing. Cheers again from 🇨🇦
this is my favorite house. Hands down. Really love the external insulation approach!
YES, YES, YES!!!! thank you this is how you build a house.. ! Everything should be put OUTSIDE of the frame. No stupid ideas about controlled vapour release and controlled this and that.. This is simple. The design looks boring but from a structural viewpoint this is ****** golden.
+qweryuiasdf agreed! Thanks for watching. Time for you to build one too!
This is awesome! Would love to see your thoughts on this today! or even an updated video with new materials :)
Matt the quality of your videos are as good as some big budge tv shows IF not better.
Learning building science every single video.
+Dunetech that's awesome!
@@buildshowshow how to do BOTH the "cold roof" AND the "perfect wall" using a SHIPPING CONTAINER.
1. do it all "within" a container (like a 12'x12')
2. do to applying the cold roof to the exterior and the "perfect wall "inside" the shipping container...
3. use BOTH the cold roof on the exterior AND any or all layers of "perfect wall" on the exterior of shipping container...
Boy do I LOVE your concept Matt, The interior of the home with the open/exposed framing members looks amazing. I am about to undergo extensive repair work to tear out my entire lower kitchen cabinets on an outside wall because of water infiltration and rotting OSB shear panel that has occurred. Concealed behind the lower cabinets, this leak has been ongoing for years!!!! Moisture got behind the outside paper, failed and now this!! At this point I'm not awfully fond of OSB . Thank you for teaching us how to be better builders / and protecting our homes from the harsh climate that ultimately causes failure to the outside envelope of our homes.
I'm digging the interior of that house. Simple and sorta looks like an old retrofit. I'd be right at home in there. Well done.
Matt. I love your videos. I hope you keep them coming.
Outsulation would work well with Wall that has high heat capacity...like cement or adobe. This way the dense wall material holds the internal temp of the house, shielded by external temps by outsulation
T Jam: But instead he used 2x4s. Mistake! Brick would be great also and it's accepted, unlike Adobe (which I love the look of). Best of all for beauty is a rammed earth wall. Done well, they are a work of art. Stone walls would be also, but it's so much more expensive.
Folks,
I'm going to be implementing a Perfect Wall/outsulation house in BC, Canada this spring. Just got possession on the land. This video was one of the many inspirations for what I'm going to be doing.
I will be doing galvalum | sealed EPS | reinforced concrete w/wood texturing on the inside for aesthetics for the floor and buried walls, and galvalum | sealed EPS | wood with fine sanded surfaces on the inside for the upper parts.
I will be drywalling and internally insulating where necessary or advantageous, but will be using the gaps between studs where possible as part of a storage system.
Also looking to implement ground-source-heat-exchange which will be used to bring HRV intake air up above freezing even in the dead of winter *before* the HRV exchange.
If anyone has any further ideas, concerns, or interest please let me know.
@@daniellewis984 Make a video!
@59seank You need to check with your individual building inspector about your specific plans. In our case, we didn't violate any codes doing this in our jurisdiction. We ran all exposed electrical in conduit, and our inspector was satisfied we met the codes.
That's a great video, Matt. Nice work, as always, with pushing the envelope.
Matt Risinger
Thanks for responding Matt. I love the look of the wood frame in a house. It reminds me of the old summer cottages I stayed in when I was young. I figured you wouldn't build without code approval. I'm just surprised it's allowed. I live in the Chicago area, and I don't think open framing would ever fly here. We still require metal conduit for all electrical work!!!
Great content. Excellent method. If I ever build a wood-frame house I will definitely price out, and strongly consider your approach. Have you considered applying your concepts to a concrete-frame house. If so I would be interested in seeing a video with your analysis on it. Keep up the good work.
It would be much appreciated if you could do a detail video on how the overhang from exterior rigid is managed at the foundation wall. I am assuming you can't just have a four inch overhang with nothing to but a bug screen?
The open stud interior walls are an interesting concept, but they would be an impractical nightmare to clean effectively especially in a dusty region.
But one of the major selling points for this method is zero air infiltration thus no dust.
how dusty do your walls get now? i don't think it would be much different. if you're talking about dust in between the ship lap then just vacuum your walls
Healthy indoor environmental quality is a Hugh benefit
There are some key aspects of this wall system that I really like. I love the metal exterior for durability, and fire hardness (especially for those of us in wild fire states.) I love the ability to have drying to the interior in the event of a leak somewhere. I love the ability to immediately see if there is a leak, rather than having it go undetected for an extended period. I love the lack of thermal bridging. I love the tight envelope.
Here is what I don't love about this system: Foam, plastic and mechanical environmental controls. I am a huge non-fan of synthetic materials that expose residents to possible chemical off-gassing and are difficult to recycle at the end of the life of a house.
I don't believe for a second that this will stand for 500 years. Especially with no eve overhangs. The combination of UV light and rain will eventually beat down the surface coat on that metal and it will eventually degrade. It may last 100 years, but not 500.
I don't love needing to rely on mechanical systems that require electricity to manage the indoor environment for fresh air and cooling.
Happily, there are buildling systems that do everything you are interested in here, with none of the downsides and there are buildings that have been standing for 500 years already using these methods.
Do yourself a huge favor and research the Timber Frame, slipstraw and lime-plaster wall system. That system is breathable without having air leaks, is made from all natural and readily available materials that have very little embodied energy and can be composted if the house is ever torn down, has simple and easy maintenance and can be maintained indefinitely. As I said, there are homes in Europe built this way that are going strong after 500 years. This system has a great balance of thermal mass and insulation in the walls and can be an exceedingly energy efficient design if situated properly to maximize passive solar gain. Super easy to build net-zero this way and can be built to whatever R-value is desired for a given climate. This system also has incredible fire hardness. In most parts of the country, the source materials, timber, straw and clay, can be sourced very locally thereby reducing energy impact of shipping that is seen with the manufactured materials in this video.
I really appreciate what you are working on here. I really appreciate the desire to build super comfortable, energy efficient, ultra-durable homes. I think you will be really excited to learn more about Timber Framing and slip straw construction. Super low-tech, super doable for anyone, cost effective, and makes for amazingly wonderful interior and exterior space to occupy. Check it out and keep up the great work!
Great videos. Very helpful for the non-pro such as myself to understand building. Thanks.
Wow,that's a great way to build, does this need the air exchangers for fresh air or does it breath ok?
Thanks for sharing this video.
Hey Matt, Climate Zone 5b here, with additions and remodeling project. End cladding will be stucco. Since I want the thermal break of exterior insulation under stucco and I plan on using on the older parts of the home, it occurred to me after countless hours of online study that I might want to simply go all insulation outside and none inside.
Here, code calls for R20 cavity or R13 cavity + R5 continuous. I am considering (I will run this by building dept as well of course) using two layers of 2" polyiso foil-faced, offset seams and joints, (R13.1 ea = R26.2) on the outside and skipping the cavity insulation altogether. I will use drywall as interior finish, although I might consider an open-frame look in an area.
The roof/ceiling most likely will be conventionally designed, with ceiling plane insulation (R49 vented attic).
I've seen the videos and read about the perfect wall. My question is whether the peel-and-stick membrane is a necessity in this scenario of ext insulation only? (I know it's "perfect" but I'm going for "pretty good")
2x4 frame, osb sheathing with taped joints, building wrap integrated with window flashings (drainage plane), two layers of 2" ea polyiso, stucco. Wouldn't I be okay using osb as air-barrier (serves as exterior air barrier in conventional framing/insulation assembly) if I used a peel-and-stick tape on seams, top, bottom?
Some would ask why not just go ahead and insulate cavity and get all the more R value? Answer is cost, plus, I like the idea of everything outside and not spending the time it takes to insulate inside properly (I'm a remodeling contractor and this is for my own home, so I plan on saving labor here and there by installing myself). I can put up what I want as interior finish and not worry about anything.
Thanks and I realize I probably need to run this by building department.
I don't think 2 layers BOTH with FOIL is a good idea - the foil traps moisture between the layers I believe.....
I was surprised that you didn't say "on the build show" at the end
I really love this house. My favourite by you. Please say you'll do some more in this style, but with a LOT more videos and with your current style - more detail!
That's pretty cool
Is there a tour of the finished home? Love to see the interior
interesting idea, I would do an inside and outside insulation to get better R ratings. thanks for the vid!
you rock! so glad I found your videos
Cool! Glad you came
Love the content as always, but do wonder the cost for such a system.
Could this be a retrofit on an existing house? Essentially remove siding, wrap house in barrier & insulation, then add new siding?
Of course the roof would be a separate interesting challenge, but maybe this gets you half of the way there.
Can really see the benefits of this system and looks like a great build! How did you conceal the services without the luxury of plasterboard?
Take a look at 3:46 - it doesn't look like they concealed it at all, just conduit. It goes with the style but I'm pretty sure my wife would not be on-board ;)
@@secessioncycles1357 You could box in a floor molding with electrical
How much would a house like this cost to build? I'm loving the design and the concept behind it.
Very hard to estimate without lots of parameters. $250-500/sf is a good estimate.
Nice! Did you do anything to plan for sound transmission between floors? Seems like it would be pretty noisy being all open.
Nice wall design!
I have an old masonry home and I'm looking for the best way to prevent heat from coming indoors during the hot summer months (I'm in southern Italy). What would be the best method for insulating masonry homes in hot, humid climates? Additionally, my neighbors' homes are attached to the two sides of my home making them inaccessible for external insulation. What would you recommend I do? Should external insulation be used on the front, back and roof while internal insulation is used on the sides attached to my neighbors' homes? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. By the way, great videos.
You have the right idea--foam + EIFS on exterior walls, foam + plaster on walls shared with your neighbors, and foam + strapping + deck/purlins + roofing for the roof.
Great video! And I like the idea. How did you seal and insulate the floor? I supposed not much is needed in your climate.
How did you guys seal and insulate the pier and beam floor? Can you give a breakdown of the floor layers. Thanks.
What are your thoughts on large overhangs in these applications? I noticed this building has no overhang on the gable end and minimal on the eaves.
Joseph Malovich The Perfect Wall concept means we need no overhangs in Framing so we can perfectly wrap/seal the house. But, we added them AFTER so we can shed water and shield the sun through windows/doors. However, the design dictated some reduction in overhang for daylighting & architectural intent. Matt
Matt Risinger Thanks for the clarification. I usually hear large overhangs are recommended for various reasons but excluding them for architectural and lighting reasons makes sense. I wish more builders in the states were like you, what I see in Zone 5A is pathetic.
Standing seam roof? Metal bldg mfr should embrace this. Nice video
Joe Large Metal is really hard to beat as a cladding for a house in the South. Thanks Joe! Matt
how much does a house like this cost to build? I would assume it would be cheaper than a traditionally built home. Love this concept!
its actually the opposite. materials and labor will be higher
I think Matt has stated it was in the ballpark of $250 per sq ft. Not sure if that includes site costs, but I'd assume that's just the building costs. He tends to use mid-to-high-end finish details so you might have some leeway to bring that down a bit with simpler trim. It's still going to be more expensive than a traditional home for several reasons, but largely due to the extra layer of 1x6 pine between the studs & sheathing, and the high cost of polyiso rigid foam relative to the ubiquitous cheap fiberglass batt insulation in traditional homes.
What makes me nervous. This house has no sheetrock. What would you do with the cavity behind sheet rock if you had it? I am not a builder and this reminds me of the old balloon construction used in the first quarter of the 20th century. I had 5 classmates who liked in such a house and were burned to death when a short in the electrical wiring started a fire in the wall cavity. I think if I lived in another old house I would rip out any lathe and plaster, fill the cavity with Roksul and then use a fire grade sheetrock on the exterior walls. Does this make sense?
What about the balloon wall caused the wiring fault? With all conduits easily accessible or exposed, how easy to inspect? Modern overcurrent protection and AFI / GFI adds huge safety factor. Fire protection (sprinkler or halon) has immediate access to all surfaces. I think this is a very robust technique from all perspectives including fire safety. Easy enough to insert blocking at 8’ if the code Nazis can’t get their heads around the reasons why it isn’t necessary.
you're talking about electrical that was how old when they burned to death? All this electrical is new.
Matt, is there a way to avoid screwing the rain screen through the insulation and vapor barrier?
Given that it is pier and beam, is there any consideration to sealing the base of the building in the same way.
It seems like an older house could be upgraded to the perfect wall system. Is the possible or feasible?
RickMakes Yes absolutely. It's been done alot in the NorthEast.
Matt do you still build homes this way? We are starting a new build soon and curious if you still use the “perfect” wall system.
+Kevin Lynch - Perfect Wall works as he calls it up north perfectly except we usually have insulation on both the inside and out for modern houses.
+Matt Risinger - Dude, modern research is increasingly showing that the basements in a house need exactly the same layering as the perfect wall too. Basements are notoriously difficult to get right because we (the builders of the world) always get them so wrong. The buildingscience guys got it wrong because they were rightfully afraid about keeping pests out, but if you insulate the inside, the vapor pressure from cold concrete hitting that insulation is too much up here, and you get condensation. Also, thermal cycling and water content cycling over the seasons is really hard on concrete expansion/contraction.
Mineral wool insulation on the outside combined with metal flashing is pretty effective at keeping the termites out.
Some jurisdictions now require borax-impregnated foam boards (protected physically by any one of a number of finishes) to insulate what would otherwise be exposed basement walls. Supposed to stop termites. I guess we'll see in future years. For sure uninsulated basements have to be one of the dumbest holdovers from the days of cheap fuel (if there was such a time). Still see uninsulated basements everywhere on new construction. Buyers don't notice, I suppose, and builders divert their attention- Look! Stainless steel appliances and granite counter tops!
Are the Carlisle R2+ polyiso waterproof as well? That wasn't mentioned.
With the higher costs of lumber, is a wood framed house still economical? Or are other materials more cost effective now?
Matt, I love your videos man, you're way ahead of the game. What are you using for you sheathing? I'm wondering if a way you could make this house even better, maybe not from a functional level but an aesthetic one, is to do a kind of post and beam structure. Use steel post supports in cement with large wood posts in the steel for the foundation. You want not need all that unattractive framing lumber, you would have large #1 grade timbers every 8 feet and the sheathing would be 2x6 t&g doug fir nailed to the outside of the posts. What do you think?
Jack, I like your suggestion of “Post & Beam,” Regrets, you lost me on: “…steel post supports in cement with large wood posts in the steel for the foundation…” ?
A metal frame is a favorite in Costa Rica where a good welder used to cost $10 -15 per hour. Wood - delicious food for termites.
@@antongorillo7715 You may have misunderstood; a common pier & beam foundation technique, at least here in Texas, is to pour concrete footings below grade up to at least 6" above grade, then drill or sink in (while the concrete is still wet) a triple-dipped galvanized post base/bracket, then attach the bracket to a pressure-treated post. Simpson Strong-Tie is a common brand. There's no wood within 6" of ground and you can even get a "termite shield," a piece of metal flashing designed to block termites' path from ground to the wooden post.
Great concept and video. Could this concept work with four sided porch?
Matt, any modifications I'd need when using engineered wood siding? We're in central NC. If done as a DIY project, do you think the perfect wall cost is comparable to 2x6 construction with dense-pack cellulose? We're trying to do a low cost, high impact project. Thanks!
I love this house! I want to build one in Central Ontario. How would you modify this build for a colder climate? Is the use of foil-backed foam specifically for hot, sunny climates? I'm thinking about over lapping seams of two layers of 4" Rockwool Comfortboard for R32 on the walls and roof, instead of rigid foam. I like the mineral wool product for it's fire-proof and sound-deadening properties but is it a good product for this type of build? The use of WIP 300 HT is smart for hot climates but would you change this up for a colder climate? Think 'Northern Michigan' if you need a reference point. ;-)
The builder I will be using in Winnipeg has built two homes this way, and retrofitted, as best he could his own home, and he highly recommends Rockwool b/c in "our climate [rigid foam] needs to be EPS b/c it's permeable enough for the wall to diffuse outwards...it's not as structurally stable. Also - it's a horrible environmental impact and chaulked full of every chemical you can think of. Roxul...is next to no chemicals, lower impact, higher performing, strong as hell, fireproof, and actually increases in r value slightly as the temperature dips" Winnipeg often gets to at or below -30°C. My neighbour here in ON, told me about Naturaseal (naturaseal.com). He works for AM roofing and has worked with the product. In a casual conversation he could not stop talking about how great this product is. I would hazard a guess it could be used as the air and vapour barrier layer. Good luck with the house build.
I had considered a liquid applied air barrier but I had not heard of Naturaseal before so thanks for that tip! Their presentation centre isn't too far away from me so I may have to pay them a visit. As for insulation, I'm sold on Rockwool (Roxul) but not on the price. I'm considering blowing in cellulose between Larsen trusses.
Thank you for all your videos. How would you support windows on the outsulation? Would not they sag after a few years with only insulation holding them up.
They will be fixed back to the frame, like a rain screen cladding system, protruding from the frame to accommodate the insulation and cladding.
Great accomplishment! When looking at the finished home I see no eave extensions. Will it make sense to add eave extensions (top of barrier) in climates like New England where snow and ice accumulate?
Beautiful house! I love the interior walls. Does fire code require drywall?
Matt, I absolutely love this house. It looks like it would be relatively inexpensive to build considering the efficiency. Any estimates as to the cost /sqft on this build? Any more information on this particular build?
Blood, Sweat, Sawdust I would expect this house could be built most places in the US in the $200/sf range depending on many factors including your foundation type.
I know it's about outside insulation rain vapor barrier but there is the question on where is plumbing and electrical. It's southern USA obviously not good for cold climate right? I like the wrap and it's affordable. Does it go Right over the pressure treated sheathing?
In California overhangs and soffets are minimized for fire code. I am in the hills between Cedar Park and Jonestown. I prefer outsulation but will probably lean towards thermal mass and more natural ventilation. I have lots more wind then down in Austin proper. Any data on the perfect wall in a fire?
Is the metal sheeting stainless steel with a PVD coating? If so is this durable in a Scottish coastal climate with sand and all the four seasons combined? How would you maintain the exterior?
Could you do this with steel instead of wood? You wouldn't get the esthetic inside....or maybe you could but I'm concerned with extreme wind load like ICF provides.
Is there anyway to get plans to this home ?
If it is an exposed stud wall, how do you hid the electrical wires and junction boxes?
Most of the electrical is run through the crawlspace and any exposed wire is in conduit.
Matt Risinger Very interesting. Thanks for the quick response!
Matt, our location is Siskiyou County, Nth California. Since our winter temps occasionally drop below freezing, what are our best options / methods to protect against freezing pipes?
Matt, great video. A few questions. The wall assembly includes CCW 705 which is a vapor barrier. Is there a reason for that? I don't see that in the area very often. Why not vapor permeable air barrier like house wrap or fluid applied? And, if you want a vapor barrier, there is a way to install R2 + Silver as a vapor/air barrier. Was there a reason why it wasn't done and CCW 705 was used instead? Lastly, what made you use R2 + Silver over other types of R2 insulation? Look forward to seeing your reply and thanks in advance.
+D.Y. LEE Check out the white papers on "Perfect Wall" on Building Science Corp's website. www.BuildingScience.com for more info on the vapor barrier. Yes, we could have used other insulations certainly. PolyIso gives a high R-value per inch and was a good choice for this project. XPS, EPS, or Mineral Wool could have also been used. Best, Matt
GOOD As Far As It Went BUT You Didn't Explain How You Engineered The FLOOR.
Hey just wondering what the best way to insulate a cinder block home without spending more than you would ever get back on energy savings I'm down in southern Florida and it's always hot most homes don't even have heat where I am
What about off gassing of the peel and stick? Doesn't that bleed into the house?
So how do you dust the myriad of timbers that are exposed? My guess is you have dusters on a stick or just moved in. What does you fire insurance company say about the "Perfect Wall"?
The perfect wall does not require framing to stay visible. You can still add drywall or whatever kind of finish on the inside. you can even add insulation on the inside with fiberglass if you're concerned about fire hazards. The concept of the perfect wall is to eliminate water and vapour from the equation. In other words, you seal the outside of the house from water and air penetration and you insulate the outside to eliminate the possibility of condensation and diffusion.
I've been trained as a carpenter by canadian standards but I have always doubted the way moisture has been handled. I stared doing research and came across Joe Lstiburek's ideas. And it just clicked for me. This is the way it should be done.
What dust?
I'm with you on this 100%. I've been researching Joe's work as well and this method really resonates with me. Matt's videos are great but I'd really love to know how his ideas would apply to building in Canada. I plan on building in Central Ontario and we obviously need more insulation than that. I see a lot of double-stud walls but nothing like this. I know this post is a year old, but I'd love to hear your thoughts on building something like this in Canada.
It doesn't matter if you live in Canada or the North Pole, you'll get a better thermal barrier by putting the insulation on the outside. Look up thermal bridging. The R value of the wall in this video is around 27, if that is not enough for you then add more foam.
The fire insurance company will love the fact that it has a metal roof and metal cladding. If you think that the painted wood is going to significantly make the interior more prone to fire then cover it with drywall or paint the wood with fire resistant paint.
vastu satra home construction as per directions for toilet, bathroom, living and other room, etc. is also science of good home to live in?
Is that metal siding concealed fastener? Looks like corrugated but don't see the fasteners.
Does anyone know where to look for architectural details for this system of construction? I'd love to see the details for the fastening of fascias and spouting, the intersection of the wall and foundation, and all the window and door flashings. Do the corrugated sheets look straight given that the battens are only fixed to the insulation?
How flammable is that insulation?
How do you fix the cladding and roofing through the insulation? Must be using some long screws
I had the same question. Outside of the studs, you have 1"(x6") pine, 1/2" OSB sheathing, 3" of foam (or 4" in the video), then 1" battens... That's 5-1/2" to 6-1/2" nominal between cladding and stud. So that's a lot of fasteners sandwiched into the wall, and a long screw to secure those battens so they hold the cladding securely.
There are several companies that sell 8-14"+ screws for exactly this kind of application.
What is the r value of the walls & ceiling?
Hey Matt, instead of the peal and stick for the water/vapor/air barrier could you use the Poly wall fluid applied system?
this man said "outsulation" I'm dead lmao
lmao that part killed me too
Does not having gypsum board in the interior decrease the fire rating?
How much outsulation would you need in a really cold climate?
The cross section and explanation is not clear. What are the 1 inch laths attached to? The laths and insulation can't just float in place.
This was my question too. Is attaching the insulation and lath punching a bunch of nail holes in the membrane, or is the insulation glued to the membrane? ANd then the metal siding is sort of floating around that like a big shell?
Matt - in the early phases of planning a new build. Is there specifications that I can provide to builders for perfect walls? Someone like Zip System have a specification?
You’re always saying there’ll be links in the description but there never are. Frustrating
yeah, when money is no object
+Matt Risinger I am curious about the detail where the porch roof connects to the home. It appears that you have a major thermal bridge where the ledger (steel?) connects to the structure. Is this not a big deal or is there some connection detail that minimizes energy transfer? I am building a similar home with a second story porch and this is a concern of ours. Thanks!
Wesley, the concept is off Perfect Wall from buildingscience.com. They don't really answer the question you have, but the do have examples for smaller overhangs where the overhang will float on the side of the insulation. If you're doing something larger and figure out a good solution, please publish.
What from this video implies that the steel continues through the many layers of insulation that were discussed to make the thermal bridge? From what I can see it would bridge the 4 inches of insulation he discussed.
You can see that the porch roof is made of lightweight metal, and the front supporting posts can be made very strong so that the ledger does not have to support much weight other than wind load. He is probably using screws into the studs so there is some minimal amount of bridging, just the screws going through the insulation to the stud wall.
Can a rocket mass heater be used in a 500 year home without losing the airtight envelope?
A building with no overhangs is pure insanity. Read the book Water in Buildings by William Rose from the University of Illinois small homes council.
So - question... how did you get around the fire codes with exposed structure and no fire barrier (drywall)? Did you put in sprinklers, 'cause I didn't see them. IMHO, you have basically made a well insulated wood fired kiln wrapped in jet fuel (foam boards). But it looks pretty.
There are no fire codes requiring drywall you idiot.
Could you do this over an existing brick house?
So you have a perfectly air tight outer shell and then you put hundreds of holes in it when you screw the siding battens through it? How does that make sense?
I read that siding should have an air gap between it and the insulation. How would you attach the siding and how would this work on CBS? I am in FL so the siding has to take winds of up to 180 MPH
Attach furring strips to the CBS through the insulation, then attach siding to the furring strips.
I have been looking at different (efficient) wall designs for a house I am designing and would love to build something like this, but is sheetrock a required part of the national building code? Great video - thank you!
I don't believe sheetrock is required and I've been looking for a way to remove it completely. This is right up my alley.
Around here you need an approved fire barrier such as Sheetrock
I live in a rural area of northern california were fire codes are literally stricter than any other state in the country. New construction must have a sprinkler system inside the house, cladding must either be cement based or metal, windows must be tempered, etc. But having drywall is not a requirement. Drywall isn't going to do shit it preventing your house from burning down.
Jack, thanks for your info re sprinkler system requirement. I plan to build a DIY 1,200 square foot, flat roof cabin at Lake Shastina in Siskiyou county Nth Calif. Do you have any experience of the additional cost for a sprinkler system? If so do you know of an installer with experience? I plan to build the exterior with mortar-less cement block (flat, i.e. no texture, Conrad Block: ruclips.net/video/y0rJE_9qNrg/видео.html ).
For a cabin aesthetic some of the interior walls and all the flat roof ceiling will be cedar. All glass lake front.
AAC block by aercon or hebel is my favorite wall system finished with STO stucco
A house this tight would need a HRV, but how do you handle make-up air for the dryer, bathroom exhaust fans, etc?
He covered that in another video. Sorry, but I do not remember the name.
@@typoagain1 I'll have to search through his videos. As far as I'm concerned, it's the elephant in the room when talking tight houses. Can't just "bring air in" because of a thing called condensation.
What is the cost per sq ft. of this type of construction versus traditional building methods. Thank you. :-)
How does this system hold up to high wind?
One thing I read or heard from Joseph's lectures is the location difference. Where is Alaska most to all insulation is on the outside, but as go you farther south the ratio reverts to the the opposite or nearly, say 20% outside and 80% inside. At this time I am not sure of the reason but this seems contrary to that idea. Any ideas of a 2 house comparison of yours versus the 20% out and 80% inside would be?
The reason is to keep moist air from reaching cold sheathing. In this case the insulation itself is airtight, and the sheathing is covered in peel-and-stick on the moist side, so even if the sheathing is cold it will never come into contact with moist air.
Matt could you do the same thing by building an ICF home you just had 50-50 insulation?
whats thermal resistance on that wall in this house?
Matt, great videos, well done and very informative. I was wondering what the cost of the perfect wall system in a house like this would be compared to traditional construction. I am interested in building something very similar in size and style, though only 1 story, however I am on a farmers income. How much could someone expect to spend on a house like this?
+Mindful Honey Very hard to predict. It's certainly more in both materials and labor, but if you are building yourself the labor will be offset. Best, Matt
How would the roof be vented properly?
I like the concept of insulation but the Moment a house looks like a Prius, I’m turning away lol
Great video Matt! What was the ACH50 on this house? I'd assume that the home would be pretty tight.
Jeff Kaczmarski We blew a 1.4ACH50, not as tight as I would have liked. I would do a few things differently and believe I could get to Passive House standards (.6 or less ACH50) on version 2 of this house.
Matt Risinger Solid video; love the concept and execution. Would love to hear about tweaks you would make to version 2 to get it even more air tight.
+Matt Risinger 1.4ACH50 is nothing to shake a stick at. A friends new home achieved a 5.5ACH50. The builder said that was great. Ha! Keep up the great builds and videos!
Do you have the architectural / structural details posted anywhere?
It looks noisy. It seems like there is nothing to dampen the noise of the kids playing.
What kind of steel coating did you use?