I must have watched over 100 of Matt's videos and ironically even though this is probably the oldest one I have watched it explains the perfect wall the most clearly.
Why not just use ICF?? Insulated Concrete Forms, such as Fox Block. No rot, no air or water leakage in walls, no insect problems, better insulation, better sound control, and reinforced concrete structural walls that are strong enough to resist even strong earthquakes.
Looking forward to living in my dream house! Thank you, Ryan's, for not only the initial support with your special but ongoing support through my build! ruclips.net/user/postUgkxe81Bz076USDt6sYU1rDcNa2LwCIKADgB Experience has been amazing so far! Made the process easy.
Matt thanks for the video. I live in Florida and based on my 35 years of personal experience I will never build anything out of termite food. My experience has been that nothing made out of wood will last 500 years in Florida. The constant attack by termites both subterranean and dry wood is a never ending problem. I will only buy concrete block properties and even the wood in those have been attacked by termites. Door frames, rafters, window frames ect anything that has wood in it seems like it is magnet for termites. I have this problem in about 50% of the properties I own. Tenting, trenching, baiting, treating wood surfaces are all solutions but unfortunately just temporary and most of these treatments use highly poisonous chemicals and gases. In addition these treatments are expensive and then you have to pay yearly to keep the contract in force. Eventually you have to treat again and the whole process starts over.I am planning on building a house soon but more than likely it will be solid concrete. Love to know how you termite proof your houses. Even if there was such a thing as a termite proof house, I don't believe it would out last a properly built concrete house. Just my 2 cents based only on my personnel experience.
I would argue that his notion of a "perfect wall" has more to do with the placement of building materials more so than the composition of said materials. Concrete is good no matter where you are; Here in the midwest, we don't have to deal quite so extensively with rot and termites, but houses should also be built with extreme weather in mind, and a solid reinforced stem wall is the only thing able to resist an f5 tornado.
alan juoe I lived in Brasil,(MG) for a few seasons. They have ants there that culture a fungus that decomposes concrete; there is no perfect building system; only one optimized for local conditions. Concrete is not impervious..
We build our homes out of brick or concrete blocks or thermal blocks with filled cavity wall insulation single or double cavity . They sit on a reinforced concrete foundation at least 1.5 metre deep and 0.75 m wide we then have a brick layer followed by a damp course then you build the house with brick and block non of this cheap and nasty machine woods we use OBS for framing to pour concrete into
i.e. standard walls in europe. for some reason putting the insulation on the outside of a roof structure only became code a few years ago in germany. be careful about the location of the water barrier in a hot climate, because it needs to be different than in northern and central europe. further requirements for a 500 year house: - wood does not start less than 4 feet above ground. -roof with large overhang
You forgot one important concern, and that is fire safety. As the recent high rise fire in London showed, the perfect wall can be a fire trap! The insulation will burn rapidly with an air space next to it. Fire suppression is an important consideration for any structure.
He used rockwool insulation which is noncombustible and a noncombustible metal cladding. Also, the airspace is very small, whereas grenfell has a 2 inch airspace. Also, this is only 2 stories tall so that chimney effect doesn't happen. Building Science Corp. did an entire post about it on their website.
"the perfect wall can be a fire trap! The insulation will burn rapidly with an air space next to it." actually no. the perfect wall (no flammable matchsticks holding everything up) contracted and paid for high grade insulation specced and actually tested (on site with a real life test fire, as your not gullible enough to pay the cash and just take what the label/PR says as true) not to ever burn. cutting corners on every job for the sake of construction/retrofit profit (and it will never happen to me mentality) burns it all down ,especially when its insured and worth more if it does (building 7 etc)
"There's not too many structures in the world that you can think of that have lasted that long...." Who are you kidding!! I live in one and it's no big deal - because so do the vast majority of my neighbours. The wall are 3 feet thick and built of granite . They are as square today as the day they were built and as well as being built of granite, they sit on granite. The original oak trusses and purlins are still present in the roof, although I have renewed the rafters and the thatch has long since been replaced by slate. I'll bet this house is still here LONG after that thing you're standing in front of has either rusted, rotted or been blown away! AND I'm giving you a 500 year start! I have no idea how many 500+ year old houses still exist in Europe, but they must number in the millions. Even in Texas there must be thousands of ancient adobe homes. And worldwide? Keep on counting! They were built from the materials at hand - whatever was lying around or could be cut down. And they were, demonstrably, built to last.
No Rick, it's a former water mill in Normandy France. The wall that supported the water wheels is thicker again - around 4' - and made of granite blocks around 3' by 18". It was made massively strong to take the strain of the 2 mill wheels and their axles which passed through the wall to drive the machinery within. The castle walls round here are considerably thicker again! There are several in Normandy dating from the 11th century (Caen, Domfront, Fécamp for example) and they have truly massive walls.
There really arent old buildings in the us, no really. The native populations construction styles varied allot but none used stone, adobe may be more prevelent in central america, thats outside of my experiance. The post culumbus europeans took a whike to start building stone structures and those are mostly limited to cities that have to rebuild frequently to update and increase popukation density. Westward expansion saw mostly wooden relatively modern and temporary structures. Its possible to find 100 to 150 year old buildings in many american towns but they are rare usually wood or brick and are typically public buildings.
Ian, that is awesome!! Unfortunately you don't understand how it is in America. We are a young nation, only 240 years or so. We haven't had thousands of years of colonization like your country has had. I would also venture to say that your homes construction is probably fairly rare as well considering the cost of moving and shaping the granite. In America we have mostly wood structure homes because of using the material around us from early colonization days and just engineering those materials, but someone kind of already covered that. The Native Americans that were here prior to European invasion lived mostly in a tent, called a 'TeePee'. They were conical shaped tents made of long logs tied together on one end, stood up, splayed out the legs and wrapped in animal hide. They were nomatic, so these structures could be tore down and rebuilt quickly while following animal herds. Some Natives in the New Mexico area build their homes in the side of cliffs. I have seen pictures but never seen them in person so I can't tell you a lot about them. I'm from Oklahoma, it's Indian Territory. White man drove all the tribes east of the Mississippi River to Oklahoma on what was known as the Trail of Tears.
@@TheRealCheckmate most people live everywhere but america, and they prefer to pay for, own, and live in a properly made double walled (50-150+yo 12" thick walls before any other internal/external cladding etc is added is average here) forever house not in effect (tldr a shithouse with tin roof/walls) a single walled reclaimed woodchip framed crate ,covered with chalk/paper boards, wrapped in plastic pallet wrap,with a 1 millimetre reclaimed mild steel sheets, plastic, and few beer bottles worth of real antiquated single/double paned glass held in with nails (most people call that 'going down the garden shed' to put bigger south double/triple multi hinged windows and a few quaint double/triple sealed 24" roof light pipes in there to heat it better) in an effort to try and give the impression to at least look nice so you can sell it for the retail cost of a real double walled EU home. hell, even traditional diy african mud huts have thicker walls than most american stick barn boxes (seen everywhere there,including yt), and far more than your current average exceptional usa working poor mobile (forever?) home with its
Interesting concept! How is the insulation fastened to the wall and roof? Any mechanical fixings mean perforations trough the waterproofing membrane. Would like a detailed description of this system
From what I saw from other videos from this channel, they just nailed the insulation through to the stud frame. So, the answer to your question is yes, the nail would make a hole in the water proof membrane.
There are still ways to seal the perforation so that the only way moisture could get in would be if the nail were removed. Silicone sealers are my go to for durability and flexibility (on top of water resistance).
@@lozza2272 The membrane has some self healing properties. Similar to ice and water for the roofs. As a nail penetrates the membrane it adheres to the faster and pretty much reseals itself.
One of the problems I have with outboard insulation is window replacement. If you use a flange style window nailed to the OSB, then to replace the window you have to remove siding and rip up the foam insulation around the window.
There are two simple ways to get around that: 1. Use flangless windows. My preferred solution, and creates the simplest drainage geometry and the best aesthetics--innie windows look right to me, outie windows look too flat unless installed recessed to the inside. 2. Build a wooden box in the rough opening extending to the outside edge of the insulation, flash it, then install conventionally.
But the sales and marketing divisions say the material is inert and durable for 500 years... yeah, right. If organic polymers are involved 'don't bet the farm' on it.
My error was using the word "primarily", but concrete was used, and the Romans used it extensively. Look it up. www.the-colosseum.net/architecture/materials_en.htm
You two are both right, Both concrete and lime were used extensively. Without even one of the 4 primary materials (lime, limestone, fly ash and concrete) the coloseum would cease to exist. There is no way it would be the marvel of historic construction that it is known for today.
In my area, perfectly watertight and soundly built terraced houses are being pulled down by the local Council, because they don't fit their modern city centre plans. There are whole areas of the city where one daren't buy a house in case it gets repossessed at a future date - all of these houses are less than 120 years old
As The Contractor says pricing was "Just north of 250 a sq ft". That is expensive for that size house. I would not call that luxury home. For that money it would come with a basement in Canada.
Hey Matt will the following be a perfect wall in 2021? Corrugated Metal + 1x4 Pressure Treated Lath Rain Screen + 1 Layer of 1.5 Carlisle R2 + 1 Silver Foil Faced Polysio R-67 + ZIP R6 + 1" x 6" pine + 24" OC 2" x 4" Framing
If this was truly PERFECT, you would never do anything else. Since this video was made 5 years ago, you have come up with a bunch of MORE perfect than THIS wall systems and put insulation between the studs just like Millions and Millions of other houses. To say the number of choices regarding wall systems is overwhelming is an understatement!!!
Matt, have you ever investigated using a liquid applied rubber product such as Rub-R-Wall or Ames Blue Max instead of the peel-n-stick product. It seem easier to apply, and at a quick glance looks cheaper.
I'm not familiar with those products. But I do like the Fluid Applied WRB products generally and they could be a swap for the peel and stick. The Tremco, DuPont, and a few others are very impressive products.
Like what Matt is is saying very much. The idea that control of things from outside in. Take a look of the type with the in mind casacada/gremagor Control
Instead of a 1X4 pressure treated lath rain screen, I would like to use a metal product, similar to what is used on some ceiling drywall systems. I think that furring system is called Hat Channel. It would provide increased Fire and Rot protection. Does anyone know if this product is being produced for exterior rain screen construction? Matt, you have been to many IBS exibits, have you seen a product like that?
The only way to prevent rot in the walls is to have a wall that can breathe. The vapor barrier needs to be directly behind the drywall so it stops homeowner-selected humidity from the conditioned space invading the wall. The rest of the wall has to breathe so as to not sweat from constantly changing outside temperature and humidity. Sealing up a wall is a surefire way of promoting moisture buildup. House wrap is not a vapor barrier; it's purpose is to slow down air movement in the wall while allowing moisture to escape from inside the wall caused by the locale's changing temp/humidity. I never listen to the advice of a person who says everyone else is wrong.
Fun fact about this particular house, if you watch some of Matt's later videos. There is no drywall on the walls. They used that 1x6 sheathing to give it a shiplap look, built the studs, and then painted it. It's one of the best constructed houses I've seen. Granted, as a water damage restorer, houses like this would almost put me out of business....
6:10 you can see some cracks in the silver stick on weather protector. With no over hangs any building will not last as long. PERIOD. Your inviting water to come right in. I don't know any roof system that can last over 100 years without maintenance. Resins may last a long time, but not under constant changes in temperature and humidity.
Hi Matt, thanks a lot for your videos. I live in Australia so many of the products you use aren't available here. But I appreciate your technique and attention to detail. What's your opinion of 'double stud' or 'double envelope' wood frame houses? In terms of thermal and acoustic insulation capability, design, cost etc. Basically a 'house within a house' type concept. Separating the outside from the inside with 2 layers. I live in Sydney and I don't think it's popular here. I asked a builder today and he's never heard of it before.
***** I've not built one that way, but like the concept. Remember I'm in Texas so my delta between inside and outside temp rarely exceeds 30-40 degrees F. In colder climates that's a more common approach in the States. Thanks for watching and commenting. So cool that you are in Australia and watching my videos! Matt
Matt, Are you aware of any research regarding homes that have been retrofitted with expanding foam? For example the services that offer entering the wall cavity via a small penetration either externally or internally and pumping in expanding foam to fill the cavity. My question is when an older home has been insulated with this method does it decrease the materials ability to dry either to the inside or to the outside resulting in retained moisture and accelerated decomposition? I'm interested in this service but concerned about downstream hydroscopic effects and altering perm in a negative way. Your productions are great! Please keep them coming. Best
I am sorry but I think you are confused. The "perfect wall" concept is one thing. The 500 year wall/Institutional wall is another thing. The latter builds on the concepts developed for the former but they are not the same thing. The walls you are building for that house might be "perfect walls" but they are not 500 year walls. You need brick/stone as the most outside layer, not corrugated steel. Also, for residential with wood frame it is recommended to have insulation between the studs (except very cold climates). Go back and read Lstiburek whitepaper again.
Hi there, do you have faith in the adhesive of the peel & stick for 500 years? For me it's the greatest concern as we're using so many adhesives in construction now and I've seen some fail after just a few years. Thanks, Jack
Very interesting ... Thank you once again for sharing both concept and real life example. What about solar gain - it looks like the house won't have any overhangs? Maybe you could post a picture after the roofing & siding goes up? Thx.
We have overhangs that are being added AFTER insulation. I'm making some further videos on this project so stay tuned! Or see my Twitter feed for some progress pictures. Best, Matt
Matt, thank you I appreciate your videos and the obvious work that you do to make them... I am here in the state of Florida, and will soon be embarking on the construction of a 2,500-3,500 sqft home.... it will have a concrete foundation because of floodplain issues... With shipping containers set on top of that. I will probably put the 6 inches of closed cell spray foam insulation on the inside... Mostly because of condensation issues. My question to you is simple how would you construct the outside wall??
Cost $200k. Outrageous for a tiny house. Good demonstration of barn construction with insulation. Metal panels are not 500 year. Rock or brick? Roof metal & insulation does not have sufficient detail on how it is attached. Indoor plumbing and electric is barn quality. Same house could be much better with ruclips.net/video/9kwJw7J9C70/видео.html construction
This is great is cost is no object, but most of us have a budget to stick to. There needs to be more focus on coming up with wall systems that don't cost a fortune (in materials and labor) to build.
Matt, you need to mention in which climate (or location) you are building this (best even in the description), or else people will just copy this "out of context" which is very dangerous.
+Pinwheel Builds Good point, however this Perfect Wall concept is meant to be built in any climate zone in N America and work with the exception of thicker insulation on the outside. Check out Building Science Corp's website for more info and whitepapers. Matt
Thanks, the video was enjoyable. Why put a fleece jacket on the outside rather than between the ribs? Surgical requirements aside, people feel cold based on the perception of skin temperature. (Tests done with Navy SEALS many years ago.) With a house, unless you are touching a wall, insulation is designed to reduce the exchange of temperature from one environment to the other. I'd have to see a test of how moving a set amount of insulation outside of a structure rather than within the structure makes a substantial difference. Best system is likely a staggered structure that reduces conduction through the structural material. Considering build cost versus energy savings, calculations would need to be done using the speculative information on what energy costs will be. Lots of variables are in this decision.
I’d still like you if when you are in one of your perfect walled homes to run a meter to see if you houses have enough air brought in that there is enough oxygen in the home! I worked in a 700 foot building that was when built was built to a high standard! It failed on oxygen in every room because it did not bring in enough oxygen! They have a portable oxygen meter ya know! Thank you Matt 💞❤️
Using insulation on the outside of the thermal sink was started by a builder in TX about 25 years ago. It was so simple a change, yet so effective. Why didn't someone do it 200 years ago? Conformity is the norm. At 75 I have questioned many irrational norms over the decades, only to hear the "expert" answer "Everybody does it that way" as if that justified it. That common answer makes me ashamed to be a human. Maybe I'm a Vulcan in disguise. For design simplicity, ease of construction, stability, nothing beats a monolithic dome. Of course, few will buy or build one. Why? They are so different.
I like your vids, but I was expecting some type of concrete, rock, or brick construction based on the description. I honestly can't see a wood wall wrapped in plastic and foam lasting 500 years. It may still be standing, but a disgusting waterlogged mold infested mess...
Only methods for tempered climates, not tropical. In tropical climates,we use lightweight wood construction too. I think we need another method for the wall protection from the weather. But good video though.
Those structure you just mentioned where built from concrete not rocks and over in Europe where are very use to place being 500 years old our home are built to last a minimum of 300 year that why we do not use wood.
why dont you build any cinder block houses? they will last way longer then wood and don't catch fire or get moldy. Plus you can add foam insulation to the outside then cover it with stucco like they do in germany.
That's actually a very good assembly for the Southern US. Not easy to remodel, nor to wire, but durable and you've got some mass inside your thermal envelope to help temper the heat gains in the summer through the windows. Thanks for watching. Matt
i think this is a sound concept but claiming 500 years i think is a bit optimistic. r20 isnt even code for exterior walls where i live. if your looking to have a well insulated house where i live your looking at around r30 atleast. and a stick frame house lasting 500 years? with some peel and stick stuff? sorry but i dont think so. the adhesive on that moisture barrier is going to break down over hundreds of years no matter how great it is right now. your basically relying on tape to keep out water for hundreds of years. and have you ever seen 500yo osb? i havent either because theyve only been making it for what 30 years mabey?
Hi Matt, If I'm getting this right, it is deck, peel and stick, poly iso, poly iso, 3/4" air gap (battens) then metal roof. On later builds you moved the peel and stick to the other side of the insulation. Any insights as to why? Would you still build a roof like this with the peel and stick under the insulation? I am doing a retrofit application on my 100 year old stucco over brick cape cod style house in MN. Putting the peel and stick right on the deck makes the process flow easier - Tear off, remove eaves/gables, put down peal and stick that wraps over edges of "monopoly house" That dries it in really quickly. I can take time putting down poly iso, rebuilding gables / eaves, and putting on the metal roof. If I were to put the Peel and Stick over the poly iso like you do in newer builds, would I want some sort of barrier air barrier over the deck under the poly iso? Any insight would be much appreciated.
Why not ICFs? Quad Lock blocks have exterior foam options that increase the R-Factor to well above 50. They would provide the environmental separators you're looking for in a much simpler package.
Peel and stick on the OSB...so I assume you want all the drying done to the inside of it. And it would be nice if you had a plastic netting 1/8" thick hanging down the wall to be a gap between the the peel/stick and the foam.
There is no insulation to create a temperature differential for there to be a condensing surface, so why complain? It's like complaining about potential condensation on a window in the center of the house...
Don't expect anything but stone to do what stone does. If you want a building to last 500 years, look at what 500 year old buildings were made of. Not that this is necessarily such a bad system, just oversold.
I have a question. If you build your house water, vapour and air tight, how do you manage moisture in the wet rooms such as bathrooms etc ? What I mean is, having air vents, for bathrooms or cooking, is contrary to air tight.
Hi, great videos, That technology would only apply to a new house? I have an older house that vapour Barrier inside. Would that create issues over the long term with humidity being trapped in between vapour barriers? Thanks
The only drawback with this design is that if you have all wood framed walls and an internal fire occurs the fire benefits of mineral based insulation provide no benefit. Why not use one of the layers inside?
I think the Zip system is a way you could implement a Perfect Wall. Instead of the OSB + Carlisle Peel & Stick + Carlisle insulation I think you could just use the Zip System R-Sheathing which has insulating and waterproofing built-in.
Matt - another excellent video! Are you planning to keep tabs on this house after occupancy in order to verify that the structure operates as designed?
Matt Risinger Thank you for your uploads Matt, love your take on practical building science. Any updates on the energy performance of this house that you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Just a quick question, won't the Polyiso rigid insulation panels on the walls deteriorate from the moisture that will get behind the cladding? There is a lot of moisture in the air where I am building and from the existing structure (the 37 yr old house where I have lived over the past 5 years) that will be demolished to build my new home I have witnessed the damage that high moisture levels can do.
The only material I know in the last 2,000 years to last 500 years are red bricks. They are structurally strong; they have small capillaries to allow the building to breathe. They are not perfect, but they last a long time. The one layer that I find confusing is the vapor barrier. In many videos, Matt argues against vapor barriers in the south. So why is it included here?
Just curious. Since this is your 500 year structure would you consider metal hat channel in lieu of the 1x4 pressure treated lath for the corrugated metal? Regardless of my question this is so well thought out. Thanks for the exposure to new ideas.
Thomas Jefferson's house was made of wood and it is still very structurally sound. But it has enjoyed frequent maintenance throughout it's existence to date. It's exterior is painted every two years and every six the paint is stripped and it is painted again.
Those peel and stick membranes can be a pain to put up with one person in hot weather. That's where their weakness lies, if the person installing it has a hard Time getting it to contour in difficult corners you can end up with unwanted folds and wrinkles. Also anythibg that goes outside of the membrane has to be held on by screwing into the wood behind it, thus piercing it in many areas. I'd like to see done sort of "paintable" liquid membrane available in the future. Or atleast a membrane that is more forgiving and can be placed and adjusted in tight areas easier than what us on the market today.
Why didn't you use foam forms for the basement and house walls, even for roofs. Reference www.quadlock.com/ for one. There are several suppliers. This gives R27 before adding any insulation. Additional foam insulation can be glued to outside if desired. The costs were comparable to lumber framing and not subject to moisture damage. You have the added advantage of reinforced concrete walls which I am sure will withstand hurricane and tornado damage. Blown in insulation will always sag so you lose the R value over time.
We have an old early 1900s farmhouse in northern VA and we are planning to do a major renovation/remodel. We'd like to make the place as energy efficient (and as long lasting) as possible. Is it practical to consider using such a system when renovating an existing structure? If we did so, are we essentially looking at 'new construction' prices? And lastly, I know you are a big fan of Bensonwood, so how do you compare this system to the SIPs system used by Bensonwood? Thanks for the video and any tips you can provide.
Daniel, The roof will be Decking, Carlisle WIP 300HT underlayment, two 3" layers of Carlisle R2+ Silver Polyiso (stagger seams), then 1x4 lath, and finally a screw down metal roof. Stay tuned to my blog for some updates and details on the assembly. MattRisinger.com Thanks! Matt
Hi Matt, Michael here once again. We are in the early stage process of planning to build a house. We are leaning towards a SIPs house construction at the moment. What can you tell us about the difference between this "perfect wall" and a structural insulated panels' construction with plywood instead of OSB?
These are two different concepts. SIPS is good, but it can be more susceptible to thermal bridges and it has less potential for drying if water gets past the WRB. I would prefer a Perfect Wall to SIPS given the choice. Matt
how do you attach the insulation? if you put nails, it will perforate the blue membrane. the outer skin will need to mount to sandwich the insulation. the screws will perforate all the layers?
Great RESPECT! I wish all builders were aiming for 500-year durability structure, unfortunately from my experience, most of them are OK with structures which can only stand without problem 10 years ( which is a length of standard warranty for new homes ) and 10 years without problems it is THE best case scenario
+Matt Risinger I am considering your methods as in Florida they are stuck in the past with t111 or hardee board with poor sealing for air leaks. My question is how do you deter, deny termites, ants, and other colony creatures from digging into your furring strips behind the metal wall? And maybe I missed it, but how is it for blocking sound (we will be building a short way from a railroad line). Thanks.
Hello Matt, Im about to build a recording studio and i have to say that I'm stunned at this "perfect wall" approach. The idea is to have no drywall ceiling but rather open framing like the house in the video, but, I have been struggling on how i would keep the heat away. Would it be possible to use this method and still somehow soundproof the roof? Thank You. Ever
Great video! Don’t understand why Companies are building cheap wood boxes with paper and vinyl siding and selling it for 400 grand? Why are homebuyers buying this crap? Pay a little more and build with brick!
Build brick walls with lime mortar and it'll need repointing every fifty years. Build brick walls with cement mortar and after, at best, 50 or 100 it will start to crack if there is any movement whatsover. I'm in the UK and our brick houses often are nowhere near as durable as we like to pretend they are. In fact, our housing stock, in many respects, is one of the worst in Europe, but we seem to have largely stopped noticing :(
I've read before that doubling foil-backed foam is a bad idea. That leaves the outermost layer of foam with foil on both sides of it which means it can't breathe if it gets moisture into it. What are your thoughts on that?
Matt, if you apply the Carlisle wrap does it take the place of Tyvek d? Also can the new thermal wrap from tyvek take the place of the foam sheets? How about using the wafer strips to promote air flow between the wrap and the siding?
Would the 1x4 strapping stand up to attaching solar panels to? With those long screws, it seems like the shear loads would be high. I guess if you tied multiple of them together via something on top of the metal roof, they'd be less likely to move around.
Hey Matt. We cannot figure out how to get to zone 3 r-values using exterior insulation only...especially in the roof. Preferably, we would like to use Roxul to avoid off-gasing and degradation of foams. Any recommendations?
Pretty basic. For roof on zone 3 use 10 inches of rockwool comfortboard 80. (R-4 per 1"). Youll need some extra long lag screws. Nice thing about the comfortboard is it has some nice very nice accoustic absorption properties as its used quite regularly in interior accoustic panels. Also its fire resistant with a high melt point of like 2000 degrees F.
I must have watched over 100 of Matt's videos and ironically even though this is probably the oldest one I have watched it explains the perfect wall the most clearly.
One of my favorite Risinger videos. My man went out and built a cutting edge, non traditional house.
It takes thought and daring to break the mould
Why not just use ICF?? Insulated Concrete Forms, such as Fox Block. No rot, no air or water leakage in walls, no insect problems, better insulation, better sound control, and reinforced concrete structural walls that are strong enough to resist even strong earthquakes.
ICF is the way to go!
Done mine 17 years ago. Could not pick better material.
Looking forward to living in my dream house! Thank you, Ryan's, for not only the initial support with your special but ongoing support through my build! ruclips.net/user/postUgkxe81Bz076USDt6sYU1rDcNa2LwCIKADgB Experience has been amazing so far! Made the process easy.
Matt thanks for the video. I live in Florida and based on my 35 years of personal experience I will never build anything out of termite food. My experience has been that nothing made out of wood will last 500 years in Florida. The constant attack by termites both subterranean and dry wood is a never ending problem. I will only buy concrete block properties and even the wood in those have been attacked by termites. Door frames, rafters, window frames ect anything that has wood in it seems like it is magnet for termites. I have this problem in about 50% of the properties I own. Tenting, trenching, baiting, treating wood surfaces are all solutions but unfortunately just temporary and most of these treatments use highly poisonous chemicals and gases. In addition these treatments are expensive and then you have to pay yearly to keep the contract in force. Eventually you have to treat again and the whole process starts over.I am planning on building a house soon but more than likely it will be solid concrete. Love to know how you termite proof your houses. Even if there was such a thing as a termite proof house, I don't believe it would out last a properly built concrete house. Just my 2 cents based only on my personnel experience.
I would argue that his notion of a "perfect wall" has more to do with the placement of building materials more so than the composition of said materials. Concrete is good no matter where you are; Here in the midwest, we don't have to deal quite so extensively with rot and termites, but houses should also be built with extreme weather in mind, and a solid reinforced stem wall is the only thing able to resist an f5 tornado.
alan juoe
I lived in Brasil,(MG) for a few seasons. They have ants there that culture a fungus that decomposes concrete; there is no perfect building system; only one optimized for local conditions. Concrete is not impervious..
WhatIsMisophonia I’m not aware of any above ground structure able to withstand an f5 tornado...
alan juoe what about P.T. lumber and PVC vinyl lumber and composites for framing studs and doors and windows...?
We build our homes out of brick or concrete blocks or thermal blocks with filled cavity wall insulation single or double cavity . They sit on a reinforced concrete foundation at least 1.5 metre deep and 0.75 m wide we then have a brick layer followed by a damp course then you build the house with brick and block non of this cheap and nasty machine woods we use OBS for framing to pour concrete into
I want to see close ups of the layers in the wall and how it is built please
i.e. standard walls in europe. for some reason putting the insulation on the outside of a roof structure only became code a few years ago in germany. be careful about the location of the water barrier in a hot climate, because it needs to be different than in northern and central europe.
further requirements for a 500 year house:
- wood does not start less than 4 feet above ground.
-roof with large overhang
You forgot one important concern, and that is fire safety. As the recent high rise fire in London showed, the perfect wall can be a fire trap! The insulation will burn rapidly with an air space next to it. Fire suppression is an important consideration for any structure.
Very good point!
Excellent point.
He used rockwool insulation which is noncombustible and a noncombustible metal cladding. Also, the airspace is very small, whereas grenfell has a 2 inch airspace. Also, this is only 2 stories tall so that chimney effect doesn't happen. Building Science Corp. did an entire post about it on their website.
See more recent videos on Rockwool. Matt takes a flame to it and nothing.
"the perfect wall can be a fire trap! The insulation will burn rapidly with an air space next to it."
actually no. the perfect wall (no flammable matchsticks holding everything up) contracted and paid for high grade insulation specced and actually tested (on site with a real life test fire, as your not gullible enough to pay the cash and just take what the label/PR says as true) not to ever burn.
cutting corners on every job for the sake of construction/retrofit profit (and it will never happen to me mentality) burns it all down ,especially when its insured and worth more if it does (building 7 etc)
Matt, I love your vids. Glad you took some time to highlight this important concept.
"There's not too many structures in the world that you can think of that have lasted that long...." Who are you kidding!! I live in one and it's no big deal - because so do the vast majority of my neighbours. The wall are 3 feet thick and built of granite . They are as square today as the day they were built and as well as being built of granite, they sit on granite. The original oak trusses and purlins are still present in the roof, although I have renewed the rafters and the thatch has long since been replaced by slate. I'll bet this house is still here LONG after that thing you're standing in front of has either rusted, rotted or been blown away! AND I'm giving you a 500 year start!
I have no idea how many 500+ year old houses still exist in Europe, but they must number in the millions. Even in Texas there must be thousands of ancient adobe homes. And worldwide? Keep on counting! They were built from the materials at hand - whatever was lying around or could be cut down. And they were, demonstrably, built to last.
No Rick, it's a former water mill in Normandy France. The wall that supported the water wheels is thicker again - around 4' - and made of granite blocks around 3' by 18". It was made massively strong to take the strain of the 2 mill wheels and their axles which passed through the wall to drive the machinery within.
The castle walls round here are considerably thicker again! There are several in Normandy dating from the 11th century (Caen, Domfront, Fécamp for example) and they have truly massive walls.
I think the goal was to build a 500 year house without relying on stone.
There really arent old buildings in the us, no really.
The native populations construction styles varied allot but none used stone, adobe may be more prevelent in central america, thats outside of my experiance.
The post culumbus europeans took a whike to start building stone structures and those are mostly limited to cities that have to rebuild frequently to update and increase popukation density.
Westward expansion saw mostly wooden relatively modern and temporary structures.
Its possible to find 100 to 150 year old buildings in many american towns but they are rare usually wood or brick and are typically public buildings.
Ian, that is awesome!! Unfortunately you don't understand how it is in America. We are a young nation, only 240 years or so. We haven't had thousands of years of colonization like your country has had. I would also venture to say that your homes construction is probably fairly rare as well considering the cost of moving and shaping the granite. In America we have mostly wood structure homes because of using the material around us from early colonization days and just engineering those materials, but someone kind of already covered that. The Native Americans that were here prior to European invasion lived mostly in a tent, called a 'TeePee'. They were conical shaped tents made of long logs tied together on one end, stood up, splayed out the legs and wrapped in animal hide. They were nomatic, so these structures could be tore down and rebuilt quickly while following animal herds. Some Natives in the New Mexico area build their homes in the side of cliffs. I have seen pictures but never seen them in person so I can't tell you a lot about them. I'm from Oklahoma, it's Indian Territory. White man drove all the tribes east of the Mississippi River to Oklahoma on what was known as the Trail of Tears.
@@TheRealCheckmate most people live everywhere but america, and they prefer to pay for, own, and live in a properly made double walled (50-150+yo 12" thick walls before any other internal/external cladding etc is added is average here) forever house
not in effect (tldr a shithouse with tin roof/walls) a single walled reclaimed woodchip framed crate ,covered with chalk/paper boards, wrapped in plastic pallet wrap,with a 1 millimetre reclaimed mild steel sheets, plastic, and few beer bottles worth of real antiquated single/double paned glass held in with nails (most people call that 'going down the garden shed' to put bigger south double/triple multi hinged windows and a few quaint double/triple sealed 24" roof light pipes in there to heat it better) in an effort to try and give the impression to at least look nice so you can sell it for the retail cost of a real double walled EU home.
hell, even traditional diy african mud huts have thicker walls than most american stick barn boxes (seen everywhere there,including yt), and far more than your current average exceptional usa working poor mobile (forever?) home with its
I have been inside Tudor homes in England that were 500 or so years old.
They dried out, after they got wet. That's why they lasted so long. Meanwhile, they were energy leakers.
Interesting concept!
How is the insulation fastened to the wall and roof?
Any mechanical fixings mean perforations trough the waterproofing membrane.
Would like a detailed description of this system
From what I saw from other videos from this channel, they just nailed the insulation through to the stud frame. So, the answer to your question is yes, the nail would make a hole in the water proof membrane.
They typically glue and screw for fastening water proofing.
There are still ways to seal the perforation so that the only way moisture could get in would be if the nail were removed. Silicone sealers are my go to for durability and flexibility (on top of water resistance).
@@lozza2272 The membrane has some self healing properties. Similar to ice and water for the roofs. As a nail penetrates the membrane it adheres to the faster and pretty much reseals itself.
@@littlered6780 thanks for your reply. That's a great product.
One of the problems I have with outboard insulation is window replacement. If you use a flange style window nailed to the OSB, then to replace the window you have to remove siding and rip up the foam insulation around the window.
There are two simple ways to get around that:
1. Use flangless windows. My preferred solution, and creates the simplest drainage geometry and the best aesthetics--innie windows look right to me, outie windows look too flat unless installed recessed to the inside.
2. Build a wooden box in the rough opening extending to the outside edge of the insulation, flash it, then install conventionally.
Thanks for the good work.
We need a 500 yr foundation development project . Concrete w/ rebar? Stone.
I'm not buying 500 yr life. no overhang on the roof?
Pipe dream. That is shack technology if there ever was any.
But the sales and marketing divisions say the material is inert and durable for 500 years... yeah, right. If organic polymers are involved 'don't bet the farm' on it.
they retrofit an overhang later on
Do yourself a favor and watch videos by joseph lstiburek.
@@MW-gh1mo
Thanks, I did.
My new found favorite channel. Fantastic!
The Coliseum is built primarily of concrete made with volcanic fly ash.
and lemon Juice
Lime, not concrete, big difference. Major difference, look it up. Concrete did not happen until relatively recently.
523hotsauce. Sorry, concrete. Look it up. www.romanconcrete.com/
My error was using the word "primarily", but concrete was used, and the Romans used it extensively. Look it up. www.the-colosseum.net/architecture/materials_en.htm
You two are both right, Both concrete and lime were used extensively. Without even one of the 4 primary materials (lime, limestone, fly ash and concrete) the coloseum would cease to exist. There is no way it would be the marvel of historic construction that it is known for today.
Young Matt. Love it❗
In my area, perfectly watertight and soundly built terraced houses are being pulled down by the local Council, because they don't fit their modern city centre plans.
There are whole areas of the city where one daren't buy a house in case it gets repossessed at a future date - all of these houses are less than 120 years old
As The Contractor says pricing was "Just north of 250 a sq ft".
That is expensive for that size house.
I would not call that luxury home.
For that money it would come with a basement in Canada.
Dang it... all this time I have been stuffing my fleece jacket in between my ribs...
you rock, thank you!
i love watching these type of videosss..I dont even work construction at all, I just find it so fascinating!!!!
What sort of wall will last 500 years? Not one that has wood in it.
i agree. theres no way. wood will degrade over a 500 year period weather it gets wet or not
Hey Matt will the following be a perfect wall in 2021? Corrugated Metal + 1x4 Pressure Treated Lath Rain Screen + 1 Layer of 1.5 Carlisle R2 + 1 Silver Foil Faced Polysio R-67 + ZIP R6 + 1" x 6" pine + 24" OC 2" x 4" Framing
I would add a fifth control layer: 5. Pests/insects
that is solved by design, not layers
I believe this is the 100 year wall. The 500 year wall adds masonry on the interior. I like BSC too, I will check out your other vids. Thanks.
If this was truly PERFECT, you would never do anything else. Since this video was made 5 years ago, you have come up with a bunch of MORE perfect than THIS wall systems and put insulation between the studs just like Millions and Millions of other houses. To say the number of choices regarding wall systems is overwhelming is an understatement!!!
In addition you need to protect the house from noise which is essential for a comfortable environment
Matt, have you ever investigated using a liquid applied rubber product such as Rub-R-Wall or Ames Blue Max instead of the peel-n-stick product. It seem easier to apply, and at a quick glance looks cheaper.
I'm not familiar with those products. But I do like the Fluid Applied WRB products generally and they could be a swap for the peel and stick. The Tremco, DuPont, and a few others are very impressive products.
Like what Matt is is saying very much. The idea that control of things from outside in. Take a look of the type with the in mind casacada/gremagor
Control
Instead of a 1X4 pressure treated lath rain screen, I would like to use a metal product, similar to what is used on some ceiling drywall systems. I think that furring system is called Hat Channel. It would provide increased Fire and Rot protection. Does anyone know if this product is being produced for exterior rain screen construction? Matt, you have been to many IBS exibits, have you seen a product like that?
Please keep posting more about this system. It is very intriguing. How does this compare to an entire home built with ICFs?
ICF is a different animal altogether. This is a much more conventional looking house that is easier to build (in my opinion). Matt
The only way to prevent rot in the walls is to have a wall that can breathe. The vapor barrier needs to be directly behind the drywall so it stops homeowner-selected humidity from the conditioned space invading the wall. The rest of the wall has to breathe so as to not sweat from constantly changing outside temperature and humidity. Sealing up a wall is a surefire way of promoting moisture buildup. House wrap is not a vapor barrier; it's purpose is to slow down air movement in the wall while allowing moisture to escape from inside the wall caused by the locale's changing temp/humidity.
I never listen to the advice of a person who says everyone else is wrong.
Fun fact about this particular house, if you watch some of Matt's later videos. There is no drywall on the walls. They used that 1x6 sheathing to give it a shiplap look, built the studs, and then painted it. It's one of the best constructed houses I've seen. Granted, as a water damage restorer, houses like this would almost put me out of business....
6:10 you can see some cracks in the silver stick on weather protector. With no over hangs any building will not last as long. PERIOD. Your inviting water to come right in. I don't know any roof system that can last over 100 years without maintenance. Resins may last a long time, but not under constant changes in temperature and humidity.
Don't you pierce the weather-proofing when you add siding, lath or paneling?
Hi Matt, thanks a lot for your videos. I live in Australia so many of the products you use aren't available here. But I appreciate your technique and attention to detail.
What's your opinion of 'double stud' or 'double envelope' wood frame houses? In terms of thermal and acoustic insulation capability, design, cost etc. Basically a 'house within a house' type concept. Separating the outside from the inside with 2 layers.
I live in Sydney and I don't think it's popular here. I asked a builder today and he's never heard of it before.
***** I've not built one that way, but like the concept. Remember I'm in Texas so my delta between inside and outside temp rarely exceeds 30-40 degrees F. In colder climates that's a more common approach in the States. Thanks for watching and commenting. So cool that you are in Australia and watching my videos! Matt
Matt, Are you aware of any research regarding homes that have been retrofitted with expanding foam? For example the services that offer entering the wall cavity via a small penetration either externally or internally and pumping in expanding foam to fill the cavity. My question is when an older home has been insulated with this method does it decrease the materials ability to dry either to the inside or to the outside resulting in retained moisture and accelerated decomposition? I'm interested in this service but concerned about downstream hydroscopic effects and altering perm in a negative way. Your productions are great! Please keep them coming.
Best
Are man-made foams and glues really going to last 500 years?
Not a chance!
My guess would be no. And my guess is probably just as valid as their guess that it will.
I should think oxidation would be the biggest threat to these polymers, especially in the heat of Texas.
I'll let you know in 500 years
All the hippies bitch that your styrofoam coffee cup won't biodegrade for a million years.
I am sorry but I think you are confused. The "perfect wall" concept is one thing. The 500 year wall/Institutional wall is another thing. The latter builds on the concepts developed for the former but they are not the same thing. The walls you are building for that house might be "perfect walls" but they are not 500 year walls. You need brick/stone as the most outside layer, not corrugated steel. Also, for residential with wood frame it is recommended to have insulation between the studs (except very cold climates). Go back and read Lstiburek whitepaper again.
Hi there, do you have faith in the adhesive of the peel & stick for 500 years? For me it's the greatest concern as we're using so many adhesives in construction now and I've seen some fail after just a few years. Thanks, Jack
I had the same concern, would the adhesive last that amount of time.
He is an idiot, he socks at explaining and only really does marketing
Lmao, glue house lasts 500 years? Where’s the roof overhangs?
Very interesting ... Thank you once again for sharing both concept and real life example. What about solar gain - it looks like the house won't have any overhangs? Maybe you could post a picture after the roofing & siding goes up? Thx.
We have overhangs that are being added AFTER insulation. I'm making some further videos on this project so stay tuned! Or see my Twitter feed for some progress pictures. Best, Matt
Matt, thank you I appreciate your videos and the obvious work that you do to make them...
I am here in the state of Florida, and will soon be embarking on the construction of a 2,500-3,500 sqft home.... it will have a concrete foundation because of floodplain issues... With shipping containers set on top of that.
I will probably put the 6 inches of closed cell spray foam insulation on the inside... Mostly because of condensation issues.
My question to you is simple how would you construct the outside wall??
I found the finished building here: www.houzz.com/projects/1608514/perfect-wall-house
Rad! Thanks for saving us the time! Haven't even clicked on it yet, but excited (and hoping) to see a corrugated white exterior!
Cost $200k. Outrageous for a tiny house. Good demonstration of barn construction with insulation. Metal panels are not 500 year. Rock or brick? Roof metal & insulation does not have sufficient detail on how it is attached. Indoor plumbing and electric is barn quality. Same house could be much better with ruclips.net/video/9kwJw7J9C70/видео.html construction
Thank you.
This is great is cost is no object, but most of us have a budget to stick to. There needs to be more focus on coming up with wall systems that don't cost a fortune (in materials and labor) to build.
Matt, you need to mention in which climate (or location) you are building this (best even in the description), or else people will just copy this "out of context" which is very dangerous.
+Pinwheel Builds Good point, however this Perfect Wall concept is meant to be built in any climate zone in N America and work with the exception of thicker insulation on the outside. Check out Building Science Corp's website for more info and whitepapers. Matt
Thanks, the video was enjoyable.
Why put a fleece jacket on the outside rather than between the ribs? Surgical requirements aside, people feel cold based on the perception of skin temperature. (Tests done with Navy SEALS many years ago.) With a house, unless you are touching a wall, insulation is designed to reduce the exchange of temperature from one environment to the other. I'd have to see a test of how moving a set amount of insulation outside of a structure rather than within the structure makes a substantial difference. Best system is likely a staggered structure that reduces conduction through the structural material. Considering build cost versus energy savings, calculations would need to be done using the speculative information on what energy costs will be. Lots of variables are in this decision.
I’d still like you if when you are in one of your perfect walled homes to run a meter to see if you houses have enough air brought in that there is enough oxygen in the home!
I worked in a 700 foot building that was when built was built to a high standard! It failed on oxygen in every room because it did not bring in enough oxygen! They have a portable oxygen meter ya know!
Thank you Matt 💞❤️
This home has a continuous supply of fresh air from an ERV
Visit Europe, the concept of lasting 500 years is not new
That ist not right! www.swissinfo.ch/eng/europe-s-oldest-wooden-house-still-going-strong/1288454
Tudor buildings ARE 500 years old
Europe is not the US, very different. We use lots of air conditioning, so buildings have to be very different.
Using insulation on the outside of the thermal sink was started by a builder in TX about 25 years ago. It was so simple a change, yet so effective. Why didn't someone do it 200 years ago? Conformity is the norm. At 75 I have questioned many irrational norms over the decades, only to hear the "expert" answer "Everybody does it that way" as if that justified it. That common answer makes me ashamed to be a human. Maybe I'm a Vulcan in disguise.
For design simplicity, ease of construction, stability, nothing beats a monolithic dome. Of course, few will buy or build one. Why? They are so different.
I like your vids, but I was expecting some type of concrete, rock, or brick construction based on the description. I honestly can't see a wood wall wrapped in plastic and foam lasting 500 years. It may still be standing, but a disgusting waterlogged mold infested mess...
Great video,since its 4 years old i am wondering if you are planning to update with some of the newer products
I’m on the lookout for someone to build a Perfect Wall 2.0 house with me!
It will be terrible if somebody will inside when fire.
I recommend don't use OSB and chose fireless board like greenboard or something same
Only methods for tempered climates, not tropical. In tropical climates,we use lightweight wood construction too. I think we need another method for the wall protection from the weather. But good video though.
Those structure you just mentioned where built from concrete not rocks and over in Europe where are very use to place being 500 years old our home are built to last a minimum of 300 year that why we do not use wood.
Plenty of wood used historically in Europe. Much of it in houses that are 300+ years old.
Up here in Alaska we call it a remote wall. And yes it is way more expensive.
why dont you build any cinder block houses? they will last way longer then wood and don't catch fire or get moldy. Plus you can add foam insulation to the outside then cover it with stucco like they do in germany.
That's actually a very good assembly for the Southern US. Not easy to remodel, nor to wire, but durable and you've got some mass inside your thermal envelope to help temper the heat gains in the summer through the windows. Thanks for watching. Matt
Matt Risinger really would love to see your input on an ICF house and type of attic to tie in.
i think this is a sound concept but claiming 500 years i think is a bit optimistic.
r20 isnt even code for exterior walls where i live. if your looking to have a well insulated house where i live your looking at around r30 atleast.
and a stick frame house lasting 500 years? with some peel and stick stuff? sorry but i dont think so. the adhesive on that moisture barrier is going to break down over hundreds of years no matter how great it is right now. your basically relying on tape to keep out water for hundreds of years. and have you ever seen 500yo osb? i havent either because theyve only been making it for what 30 years mabey?
Great information
Hi Matt, If I'm getting this right, it is deck, peel and stick, poly iso, poly iso, 3/4" air gap (battens) then metal roof. On later builds you moved the peel and stick to the other side of the insulation. Any insights as to why? Would you still build a roof like this with the peel and stick under the insulation? I am doing a retrofit application on my 100 year old stucco over brick cape cod style house in MN. Putting the peel and stick right on the deck makes the process flow easier - Tear off, remove eaves/gables, put down peal and stick that wraps over edges of "monopoly house" That dries it in really quickly. I can take time putting down poly iso, rebuilding gables / eaves, and putting on the metal roof. If I were to put the Peel and Stick over the poly iso like you do in newer builds, would I want some sort of barrier air barrier over the deck under the poly iso? Any insight would be much appreciated.
Why not ICFs? Quad Lock blocks have exterior foam options that increase the R-Factor to well above 50. They would provide the environmental separators you're looking for in a much simpler package.
Peel and stick on the OSB...so I assume you want all the drying done to the inside of it. And it would be nice if you had a plastic netting 1/8" thick hanging down the wall to be a gap between the the peel/stick and the foam.
There is no insulation to create a temperature differential for there to be a condensing surface, so why complain? It's like complaining about potential condensation on a window in the center of the house...
Why would you want such a gap?
Good school matt!
Don't expect anything but stone to do what stone does. If you want a building to last 500 years, look at what 500 year old buildings were made of. Not that this is necessarily such a bad system, just oversold.
I have a question. If you build your house water, vapour and air tight, how do you manage moisture in the wet rooms such as bathrooms etc ? What I mean is, having air vents, for bathrooms or cooking, is contrary to air tight.
Hi, great videos, That technology would only apply to a new house? I have an older house that vapour Barrier inside. Would that create issues over the long term with humidity being trapped in between vapour barriers?
Thanks
Will I spend 500 years paying for it?
Good question.
The original owner has already moved out, as seen in a subsequent video.
Glad to know that my resale value will be retained when I'm 500
The only drawback with this design is that if you have all wood framed walls and an internal fire occurs the fire benefits of mineral based insulation provide no benefit. Why not use one of the layers inside?
What is the comparison between Perfect Wall and Zip?
I think the Zip system is a way you could implement a Perfect Wall. Instead of the OSB + Carlisle Peel & Stick + Carlisle insulation I think you could just use the Zip System R-Sheathing which has insulating and waterproofing built-in.
I would love to see some detail section drawings on these videos.
Matt - another excellent video! Are you planning to keep tabs on this house after occupancy in order to verify that the structure operates as designed?
We plan to install an e-monitor to keep tabs on energy usage. Thanks, Matt
Matt Risinger Thank you for your uploads Matt, love your take on practical building science. Any updates on the energy performance of this house that you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Just a quick question, won't the Polyiso rigid insulation panels on the walls deteriorate from the moisture that will get behind the cladding? There is a lot of moisture in the air where I am building and from the existing structure (the 37 yr old house where I have lived over the past 5 years) that will be demolished to build my new home I have witnessed the damage that high moisture levels can do.
+Matt Risinger how does the data look?
@@buildshow where can we see the data?
The only material I know in the last 2,000 years to last 500 years are red bricks. They are structurally strong; they have small capillaries to allow the building to breathe. They are not perfect, but they last a long time.
The one layer that I find confusing is the vapor barrier. In many videos, Matt argues against vapor barriers in the south. So why is it included here?
Just curious. Since this is your 500 year structure would you consider metal hat channel in lieu of the 1x4 pressure treated lath for the corrugated metal? Regardless of my question this is so well thought out. Thanks for the exposure to new ideas.
ICF = the perfect wall
toology55 ICF are awesome agreed!!
toology55 I don't agree. Look into the studies with xps vs eps foams. Especially below grade.
Thomas Jefferson's house was made of wood and it is still very structurally sound. But it has enjoyed frequent maintenance throughout it's existence to date. It's exterior is painted every two years and every six the paint is stripped and it is painted again.
Those peel and stick membranes can be a pain to put up with one person in hot weather. That's where their weakness lies, if the person installing it has a hard Time getting it to contour in difficult corners you can end up with unwanted folds and wrinkles.
Also anythibg that goes outside of the membrane has to be held on by screwing into the wood behind it, thus piercing it in many areas. I'd like to see done sort of "paintable" liquid membrane available in the future. Or atleast a membrane that is more forgiving and can be placed and adjusted in tight areas easier than what us on the market today.
There's no way in hell you can claim 500 year durability on products that have only been in use for a handful of years.
Why didn't you use foam forms for the basement and house walls, even for roofs. Reference www.quadlock.com/ for one. There are several suppliers. This gives R27 before adding any insulation. Additional foam insulation can be glued to outside if desired. The costs were comparable to lumber framing and not subject to moisture damage. You have the added advantage of reinforced concrete walls which I am sure will withstand hurricane and tornado damage. Blown in insulation will always sag so you lose the R value over time.
We have an old early 1900s farmhouse in northern VA and we are planning to do a major renovation/remodel. We'd like to make the place as energy efficient (and as long lasting) as possible. Is it practical to consider using such a system when renovating an existing structure? If we did so, are we essentially looking at 'new construction' prices? And lastly, I know you are a big fan of Bensonwood, so how do you compare this system to the SIPs system used by Bensonwood? Thanks for the video and any tips you can provide.
great video!
Matt, thanks for posting this. I will be doing a similar job but retrofit. What is the roof assembly on this house? Daniel
Daniel, The roof will be Decking, Carlisle WIP 300HT underlayment, two 3" layers of Carlisle R2+ Silver Polyiso (stagger seams), then 1x4 lath, and finally a screw down metal roof. Stay tuned to my blog for some updates and details on the assembly. MattRisinger.com Thanks! Matt
Hi Matt, Michael here once again. We are in the early stage process of planning to build a house. We are leaning towards a SIPs house construction at the moment. What can you tell us about the difference between this "perfect wall" and a structural insulated panels' construction with plywood instead of OSB?
These are two different concepts. SIPS is good, but it can be more susceptible to thermal bridges and it has less potential for drying if water gets past the WRB. I would prefer a Perfect Wall to SIPS given the choice. Matt
how do you attach the insulation? if you put nails, it will perforate the blue membrane. the outer skin will need to mount to sandwich the insulation. the screws will perforate all the layers?
Great RESPECT! I wish all builders were aiming for 500-year durability structure, unfortunately
from my experience, most of them are OK with structures which can only stand without problem 10 years ( which is a length of standard warranty for new homes ) and 10 years without problems it is THE best case scenario
+Matt Risinger I am considering your methods as in Florida they are stuck in the past with t111 or hardee board with poor sealing for air leaks. My question is how do you deter, deny termites, ants, and other colony creatures from digging into your furring strips behind the metal wall? And maybe I missed it, but how is it for blocking sound (we will be building a short way from a railroad line). Thanks.
Hello Matt,
Im about to build a recording studio and i have to say that I'm stunned at this "perfect wall" approach. The idea is to have no drywall ceiling but rather open framing like the house in the video, but, I have been struggling on how i would keep the heat away.
Would it be possible to use this method and still somehow soundproof the roof? Thank You. Ever
Build a sound proof recording booth Inside of the structure?
Great video! Don’t understand why Companies are building cheap wood boxes with paper and vinyl siding and selling it for 400 grand? Why are homebuyers buying this crap? Pay a little more and build with brick!
Build brick walls with lime mortar and it'll need repointing every fifty years. Build brick walls with cement mortar and after, at best, 50 or 100 it will start to crack if there is any movement whatsover. I'm in the UK and our brick houses often are nowhere near as durable as we like to pretend they are. In fact, our housing stock, in many respects, is one of the worst in Europe, but we seem to have largely stopped noticing :(
Hi Matt, would it be possible to install the Air/Water/Vapor Barrier directly above the 1×6 Pine and save rhe sheeting? Regards from Montreal.
I've read before that doubling foil-backed foam is a bad idea. That leaves the outermost layer of foam with foil on both sides of it which means it can't breathe if it gets moisture into it. What are your thoughts on that?
What is the I beam on the building, I assume for scaffolding?
been to Rothenburg un der Taber?
Matt, if you apply the Carlisle wrap does it take the place of Tyvek d? Also can the new thermal wrap from tyvek take the place of the foam sheets? How about using the wafer strips to promote air flow between the wrap and the siding?
VJ Meitl It would seem to me that the furring strips would provide for that airflow, reducing moisture ,condensation .
Does using the 1x6 lath on the outside of the house ever lead to problems with rodents gaining access to the house through this potential space?
Would the 1x4 strapping stand up to attaching solar panels to? With those long screws, it seems like the shear loads would be high. I guess if you tied multiple of them together via something on top of the metal roof, they'd be less likely to move around.
Could I build this style of house in Central Indiana?
Is the cladding drilled threw to the inner frame or is it all held together with peel and stick....
very nice
Build it out of brick or stone frame a wall inside insulated drywall done last for a thousand years if your roof last that long
Hey Matt. We cannot figure out how to get to zone 3 r-values using exterior insulation only...especially in the roof. Preferably, we would like to use Roxul to avoid off-gasing and degradation of foams. Any recommendations?
Pretty basic. For roof on zone 3 use 10 inches of rockwool comfortboard 80. (R-4 per 1"). Youll need some extra long lag screws. Nice thing about the comfortboard is it has some nice very nice accoustic absorption properties as its used quite regularly in interior accoustic panels. Also its fire resistant with a high melt point of like 2000 degrees F.