Just finished installing the updated kit on my truck. Was straight forward and can’t see how the bolt would ever fail or loosen. If you ever were concerned you can easily inspect it by pulling the intake and looking at the grid. Thanks for a great product that doesn’t break the bank!
My question is, What’s stopping that bolt with the insulting washers connecting the bus bar rattling loose and falling into cylinder 6 like the oem failure point ?
The most failure prone fastener is the main one that we eliminate from inside the intake. The second bolt you refer to is still present as we need some way to connect to the heater but we’ve revamped how it is connected. The factory style uses a nut and bolt and transfers all the power through the bolt. Because power is transferred through the bolt there is a greater chance of the bolt melting off. The BD kit instead sandwiches the heater elements right up against the new lower busbar which means they are directly connected and no power goes through the bolt so it should not melt off like the OEM one. Additionally we no longer use the nut and thread the bolt directly into the busbar. This improves on the original design which should improve reliability of this connection.
Thanks for your comment. The hole you’re referring to is insulated by the insulation sleeve installed at about the 2:02 mark of the video. This insulates the bolts' threads against the through-hole and is a crucial step in the installation process.
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Just finished installing the updated kit on my truck. Was straight forward and can’t see how the bolt would ever fail or loosen. If you ever were concerned you can easily inspect it by pulling the intake and looking at the grid. Thanks for a great product that doesn’t break the bank!
Just installed my kit, pretty straight forward only recommendation I can make is print the instructions in colour to make it a bit better.
My question is, What’s stopping that bolt with the insulting washers connecting the bus bar rattling loose and falling into cylinder 6 like the oem failure point ?
Torque spec …it’s never been a cause of concern on any of the grid heater failures the melting nut is the problem
The most failure prone fastener is the main one that we eliminate from inside the intake. The second bolt you refer to is still present as we need some way to connect to the heater but we’ve revamped how it is connected. The factory style uses a nut and bolt and transfers all the power through the bolt. Because power is transferred through the bolt there is a greater chance of the bolt melting off.
The BD kit instead sandwiches the heater elements right up against the new lower busbar which means they are directly connected and no power goes through the bolt so it should not melt off like the OEM one. Additionally we no longer use the nut and thread the bolt directly into the busbar. This improves on the original design which should improve reliability of this connection.
@ has this system been “cycle tested”?
That bolt still goes through the part that your trying to insulate on both sides. Lol its gonna make contact in the hole it's going through.
Thanks for your comment. The hole you’re referring to is insulated by the insulation sleeve installed at about the 2:02 mark of the video. This insulates the bolts' threads against the through-hole and is a crucial step in the installation process.