Installing Mento Airtight Roof Underlayment
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- See 475's high performance Pro Clima roof membrane get installed on this 3:12 roof, before the rain screen , exterior insulation, and eaves get put on. More on this project at: HomeDiagnosis....
Get samples of these awesome building materials at: FourSevenFive.com
I’m excited to see what you have in store. I’m in the process of designing my own home and will be the builder. We will build our guest house first to get the practice then build our main house after once we learned what works and what didn’t. I will be a first time homebuilder and sometimes I am an idiot.
KEEP IT UP BADASS
Use a leaf blower to clean up the little stuff. Not perfect, but should get rid of 90% of the stuff.
Leaf blowers do better job than broom.
Great video. I was beginning to think y'all were vacationing in Hollywood with the TV show crew. I'm anxious to see the approach you're going to use for the eaves.
Haha, no, just working 6 days a week in the damp heat on boring stuff, mostly not worth shooting with the camera. Thanks for hanging in there.
"Belt and suspenders" haha, love it 😂
;)
I realize this is an old video, but if you know how far out those eaves are going to go, why not start the Mento underlayment close enough to the edge that it would cover the eaves and use two perfectly overlapping pieces for that first strip. The bottom layer would be folded down the wall and taped to continue the air barrier and the upper layer would be taped only at the top with the bottom left loose until the eaves are attached, then taped to the eaves. After laying down these two perfectly overlapping layers as mentioned, you would do the shingle pattern the rest of the way up the roof just like you did.
Love your videos - keep them coming! Quick question: would you be using any different products if you were building in a cold climate (northeast)? I'll be putting a new roof on a 200 year old post-and-beam in the spring so the vapor-permeable underlayment got my attention...
It's all part of a system, of course, so no one product takes the cake or is a 'must have', but yes, lots of high performance builders use this system in cold climates. 475 is based in NYC.
Corbin- if water gets behind that wall Force forcefield , even if mento prevents it from going further, your Forcefield/OSB is toast . I also dont get your negative shiplap using Vianna on top of the terminal edge of the roof mento
The comments on the “dings” in the Mento3000 were really concerning. The fact that you’ll look for actual leaks migrating to the sheathing seams to then troubleshoot where a “ding” was is nuts. After watching this I really question the durability of the underlayment...no matter what you install it’s gonna get banged up and it better be prepared for it. Especially at this price and performance target.
Reminder: you install an actual roof over this.
@@HomePerformance Did I miss something? I thought you said you will be ding a visual inspection of the entire roof and resealing any "dings" with tape designed for the task. I understood you to mean that the "looking for leaks" on the underside is intended as part of your inspection for "dings." It's sort of like using a smoke pen to locate small air leaks during a blower-door test - right?
Home Performance if your response is “you install a roof over it” then why in the heck pay for such an expensive underlayment? Use #15 felt then? I think you’re looking for a good belt and suspenders approach but ignoring the fact that the suspenders you’re wearing are broken.
Isn’t it peppered with nails? The only underlayment that seals nail holes is fluid applied according to testing.
@Krunch2020 metal roof on battens, not shingles
I’m really surprised you only went with R38 for the ceiling (which likely implies thermal bridging). What was the logic that led you to this given the significance of the roof plane in conductive energy loss?
I'm sure he did a return on investment analysis and anything above wasnt going to have a good payback, also he mentions he's not in it for energy efficiency hes in it for comfort and health, energy efficiency happens to be a byproduct.
Energy modeling gives you the performance effects of various improvements, and the insulation levels we use are ideal for the home as a system. Cooling load on studio space= 1/2 ton (the smallest minisplit you can find). Cooling load on the main house = 1.5 tons (generally the smallest split system heat pump you can find). Adding more insulation anywhere in this house would intentionally detune the enclosure from the HVAC. That’s not home performance.
I very much disagree with the response from “Town’s End Living”. Adding a proper amount of insulation to the roof plane is all about comfort, efficiency is the by product in my book. What’s the larger contributor to comfort in a room, air or radiative temperature? Forgoing the proper insulation depths compromises the envelopes ability to control radiative temperature. If your response is just “we’ll throw more heating/cooling at it” I say you’re focusing too much on the “system” of the house and not the “system” that’s our planet. Just my 2c, we all have different motivations and that’s all good!
@@batmb1e he was focusing on the house as a system down to very little detail, as he explained if he were to add more insulation the HVAC units would be oversized and therefore turning on and off too often, a ac unit needs to run for a minimum amount of time to start to condensate and perform its job correctly and efficiently. He cant get any smaller of a unit then he has now. Plus the R38 on the fashion that he has assembled works together alot better, has a better U valve than most houses with even higher insulation values. At a certain point its smarter to put your money in other items, and I'm sure along with planning the system and his goals he also had to plan for a budget, everyone's budget is the biggest variable.
I need belt and suspenders .. lost to much tonnage LOL
I have a question about butyl backed tape before battens. Would the screws that hold down the battens penetrate the underlayment?
Yes, of course- hence the tape
@@HomePerformance ok, just learning about all of this. So what is purpose of the tape since the screws are going to penetrate?
@@minni1094 there are no dumb questions, Minni, just unasked ones! The tape's only purpose is to self-seal all the penetrations the fasteners will make. That's the property of butyl tape that makes it so valuable for this application.
Why use a squeegee applicator and not a roller?
Manufacturer instructions, they include it. Also, have you used a roller? I’m not convinced they actually work.
Why didn't you use forcefiled for the roof?
Not approved for roofs.
@@HomePerformance I've seen it installed on roofs. I wonder if the builder's know that.
Learned today that FF has JUST been approved for roofs recently, did not know it.
So why not Grace
Ice an Water over the whole roof, it cuts out a few steps an Ice an Water the heat up an will just absorb to the OSB an close holes from nails
I don't believe Grace is vapor permeable like this is- it's a membrane, not a rubber layer.
A much better belt and suspenders approach ? Plywood, Grace Ice and water shield, and one of the thin roof underlayment that maintain a small air gap under roofing material . Grace seals around all nails, air gap ventilates Does anything that gets past roofing (thsi you doubt need to ventilate water that gets into OSB, and if some water should get into decking, its plywood and much better at releasing water prior to delaminating . Sure rio in veery way to your approach- ventilation, nail penetrations , and more durable decking. And Gracie is self adhering through not just the terminal six inches !!!
Only way to get 100 years out of roof is install full copper.
I simply dotn understand why you are insisting on a “permeable” roof with this membrane ? That requirement is what is driving you away from proven cheaper underlayment-sharkskin, or even grace and water shield. ANY bulk water leakage will more than exceed the health “risks” you are trying to avoid re mold etc. Heavy tar paper, esp two layers is also permeable and far far cheaper...
I’ve used this material before to great success, John, and since it’s my house, AND because our #1 goal is to get people thinking outside the box of mainstream building.