Rooftop Insulation with Hunter Panels
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- Опубликовано: 14 янв 2021
- Check out this product from Hunter Panels - www.hunterpanels.com/product-...
On todays video we’re going to show you my next Monopoly framed house with a few new details that make it easier AND less expensive to build a super insulated house!
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Matt, big fan of your channel. One thing I would love to see are cross-section detail drawings showing exactly what you are talking about for us visual learners. Cross-sections of your walls, roofs, and the wall/roof union of your monopoly framing.
Same, here. Big fan, really hungry for detail views, cross-section views, SketchUp files...
Me too! Visual learner here, looking for details!
" it was cold this morning when I got up 36 degrees...." Lmao that t-shirt weather for us in the north
Haha, for sure... but uhhh... you people also die when its over 100 so theres that.
@@danielbuckner2167 I've gotten heat stroke in like 85-90°f weather😅
@@NB22222 😄
@@danielbuckner2167
Meh .... heat's not a problem. It's that dew point ... Humidity sucks.
@@johnjacobjinglehimerschmid3555 Nah, its the lack of humidity, without it I'll get nosebleeds. In north Africa and the western USA were the worst. I would have to breathe 5hrough a wet cloth just to soften things up to blow my nose. Hot steamy jungles are much more my speed. 🙂
matt you REALLY need to discuss the details re soffit air intake into that Hunter panel and ridge venting as well as how to attach roofing material-metal OR shingles -also please clarify -did you run brown zip on roof first (ie under first layer of foam ? otherwise how do you achieve air seal on the deck ?
Good comment. Have same questions.
Me too Matt. Would still need some soffit and ridge vents to draw a convention air flow. Similar venting if using metal roof with the wood slats arranged angular to the ridge.
I have to agree with these other comments Matt. It seems to me that, other than having an additional radiant barrier with the top layer of ISO, the venting channels which are intentionally left open to ambient temperatures, nullifies the work done by the top sheet. I even have to question whether or not airflow through these venting channels might actually create a wind chill on cold days reducing the efficiency of the bottom layer of rigid foam. With the amount of radiant heat reduction we can now get from lighter colored roofing materials, I think this technique might be too costly for any benefit it might provide. Actually looking forward to you proving me wrong.
He used foam backed zip on the roof. Most zip is sealed on seams with their proprietary tape and he used butyl tape where he knew future fasteners will pass through. That's his vapour barrier. Everything is built on top of this layer for the roofing. And then he's using Rockwood in the attic for insulation.
I had to rewatch this cause I really like the idea of it. It looks like (and he mentions 2” soffit vents) he vents the soffit and the I would assume you leave a gap at the ridge. It would get covered by the metal roof cap - or ridge vent if you were shingling on top. I think from an affordability stand point, you could reduce the cost by not adding the middle layer of polyiso, and just use zip roof then the Hunter Panels.
I use to watch “this old house” and similar shows on TV all the time. I would say to myself, man that’s the guy I want to build a house for me. Now, I want you to build a house for me!
My wife and I recently bought a 50 year old home. It really breathes which I don’t like after seeing your videos. I wish I could seal it completely but I don’t have a setup where I could bring fresh air, on our terms, inside. This is really helping me though to think of the small things I can tighten up and also considerations as we are saving, long term, to build our own home.
That is the hard nail to hit . House design and construction that lasts for 150+ yrs . That is the true 'green '
Matt Risinger always delivering the best videos!
Lmao
Another insightful post. Great info Matt. Thank you.
Really nice explanations with references to past techniques and how you've improved this approach with experience! Great video.
Matt, Really have been enjoying your videos and sharing of knowledge. One of you last comments on building houses to last potentially centuries is really what builders should be trying to achieve. In traveling Europe, I looked at many houses and buildings that had been built centuries before. Keep up the great work.
I really enjoy Matt's videos, even though I'm not remotely related to the building industry, I just find them quite interesting.
Same
Wait until you need to fix something in your home 🤣. Next thing your going to tear it down and rebuild.
It's going to be such a spectacularly insulated home! Love seeing it insulated from the slab up (especially with that Halo Interra slab insulation 😉)
I just watched your Xmas Day released video.
THANK YOU MATT RESIGNER for your heart to help others learn through your videos.
I've been watching Matt's videos for a while now. As a Mechanical Engineer, I love his theories and craftsmanship. Sound principles, beautiful work.
I'll also use this as my chance to say....
9:17...
NNNEEEEERRRRDDDDD
:) Thank you, keep being awesome and have a great day!!
Ha! It’s my signature now. And I’m definitely a Nerd!
I well remember your previous project which I think you called "house in a blanket". Loved the exposed interior framing in the attic area and was really impressed how clean it was years later.
Always good stuff!!
Excellent video!
Excellent! This is the only way to go if you want an heirloom home that will be supremely comfortable to live in and last for generations with little maint. That's exactly what I want so I'll definitely use this framing/insulating technique when I get around to building my dream home for retirement. I'm considering retiring to the Austin area, so maybe you can even build it for me, although I plan to do a lot of the work myself. Unfortunately, I'm not retiring for at least a decade so hopefully you haven't retired by then!
When we move to Texas, I'm going to look you up, because I want you to build our dream home!!! Love your attention to detail! Love your vids!!
Thanks!
Start saving.
Superb as usual 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Matt, you need to write a book. So many videos and information over the past 10 years, I can't keep it organized.
Always inspired by your builds
excellent design.
Monopoly framing is a great way to put it. Great build!
Thinking for the long term !!! & not just the minimum to meet code. That is awesome.
I like your videos! I’ve learned a lot from them and I’ll be using a lot of your advice when I build my house next year. I’m a contractor here in Tennessee. I’m surprised your fasting the metal to the plywood. I’ve been doing metal roofs here for the last 12 years or so and we always install 1x4’s first. It’s amazing the pullout strength difference in screwing into plywood versus 1x4’s. We’ve had to do a lot of repairs on other roofers roof installs who just fasten to plywood. What I’ve seen happen a lot is the screws start walking out after 2-5 years. Have you had a problems with that Matt?
Matt, this settles it. I’m doing this on a 16’X24’ pool house. Now looking for a good 12’ hinge-out door (like a hangar door) and really thinking of totally copying Steve’s sliding barn door for the other axis. Awesome video.
Interesting product.
Matt I am so grateful that you made this channel and share your knowledge. I have learned many things that I never gave much thought to before.
I really like this roof system. But on top of your stick down layer still needs to have something on it before the metal. The rain screen Brillo pad wounded fine. Without it the metal will still burn the stick down layer.
Remember the other brand that said it was good up to some crazy temperature but when you went back to fix something on the roof and pulled a piece up it was burnt and dried up because the metal was right on the peel and stick.
Hope to here back from you.
I use to build post and beam over a decade ago so I remember those insulated prefab panels. The whole frame was completely covered wall and roof with them. I never really thought of the benefit of building the roof with them on a stick built but boy does that seem like a great idea.
super didactic!!! many thanks!!
7:20 That's actually how I found this channel, through Joe and The Perfect Wall, and wanting to learn if anyone tried making a Perfect Wall House LOL!
Nice job.
I did several projects with 3 in. Foam and a sealed air gap and then 2 in foam. Finished with 2 sided radiant barrier with proper air gap and celetex ceiling tiles for an R 100 insulation in the ceiling and r75 in the walls. PCH( Pacific Coast highway) traffic with motorcycles and busses going by 75 ft away. No sound from traffic or jets overhead through the ceiling or walls.Customers did not need to use a/c during the summer. Just a fan. Even with the sun beating on the outside wall.
== 75 feet from that monstrosity called PCH and no noise pollution? That's an impressive achievement.
@@rerite2 I was surprised myself. The homeowner made the comment to me months after I finished. I made everything so air tight that they would leave this vacation home and a month later come back and say there was no dust anywhere. Also surprised to hear this. Another customer told me she could take a nap in the heat of the afternoon with the fan running and the sun beating on her bedroom wall and she was quite comfortable without a/c
The State Inspector told me that the management company that ran the subdivision said I was the best contractor to ever remodel in their location. Nice to hear.
Sounds like El Segundo or Playa del Rey. Nice job.
@@user-tv5dt3nm9y Newport Beach .right where the boats go by.
Really appreciate your videos! My truss manufacturer messed up our trusses on a current home addition (the sales rep didn't send our blueprints to their engineering department & just decided to wing it...) and as a result our fascia on the addition is 13 inches lower than existing house. We're currently in the process of cutting off our overhangs & installing rafters over existing roof. Along the way I'm having my framers insulate the roof as well. I wasn't sure if I was putting together a good plan or not, but based on your videos it looks like I'm essentially doing insulated monopoly framing with overhangs.
Matt, have you ever thought of getting a builders network? I really love your videos but it would be great to be able to find local builders who ascribe to the the same building principles, like it seems you have with Wade and Jake. Personally, I'm wondering if you have any recommendations on builders in the central coast of California. Thanks! Keep the amazing videos coming :)
I know this is an old post, but damn I've been thinking the same thing. So hard to find builders who give a sh!t. Jacksonville, FL here
Our house is only 15 years old and we're replacing our windows that pour water in the winter. Sucks not having any overhang. But good episode Matt.
overhangs are amazing. I'm going to be adding some to walls when I reroof the house. They make a load of difference
this guy inspires me to D.I.Y my dream home. thanks for sharing your videos
Puffy Jackets and a Yeti coolers are excellent!
4:08 that’s what SHE said!
🤣
AWESOME 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🙏
On the build Show! :)
I did a «perfect wall in my cabin» : sheating is a permeable wood fiber board (R4) and i have a rigid foam layer (R9) with the air-water barrier membrane already glue to it. Technically, it is R13, but even if it is not finish with no inside insulation, everybody is surprise by how warm it is (ans silent). A lot of folks were telling me i was crazy (what no vapor barrier???), i will just put R13 inside, in de 2x4 frame (that are inside the timber-frame) with no vapor-barrier, only rockwool + gypse panel, so the beautiful timber frame will still be visible. So the total is R26, but R26 with R13 of rigid «outsulation» is really not the same as R23 with only insulation inside. Thanks to Matt, i was new to construction and i started with something close his Houston house...
This is a great idea. I wish I would have seen this information before I built my office attached to my house.
Matt, thank you for educating builders on better and more efficient building systems.
Educating builders?! Do you think there arent reps? Hes just educating the youtube public.
@@danielbuckner2167 I spent 31 years in the millwork business. Six of those years, my job was to introduce new products to the market place. Yes, I realize that manufacturers and distributors have people on staff to help educate builders, wholesalers, architects, and other members of the trades. However, I also realize not everyone is getting the information needed to improve their products.
Also remember, most salesmen are order takers rather than professional sales people.
People are too busy running their businesses day in and dawy out to study all the new products on the market.
@@davidnielsen4490 oh for sure there are those who have their nose to the grindstone and cant look up. Some can benefit from new products others operate with too tight of margins to increase price per square foot. I think most progressive builders seek out new products and go to trade shows to see whats new too. I dont know about the order taker vs sales thing, it seems like i have to hear about something new all the time and almost always its not something i can use. 🤷♂️ Probably a commission vs salary thing.
@@danielbuckner2167 I've been a salesman for over 58 years. Nothing happens until something is sold. A good salesman doesn't worry about commissions but puts his client/customer first. By doing that, the commissions will come.
@@davidnielsen4490 Agreed but with the caveat that you already inserted, 'a good salesman'.
When you finish this house. I'd love to see a "lessons learned" final thoughts kinda video.
How long did you expect it to take. How long did it finally take. Projected cost and final cost. Major decisions made. Lessons learned. Corners you would cut next time. Corners you're glad you didn't cut. Things you would go further on next time. Etc.
Matt - much appreciated as always. Question: Why not just build with standard rafter overhang, but sheath the bottom of the rafters with zip (so not exposed) and then tape facia to that sheathing and that sheathing to the wall. Still air tight - and less gymnastics for overhang. True - tails will not show - but its a better construction than exposed tails for durability anyway.
Hah he just recently did a video with this exact idea. Apparently you were ahead of your time!
@@timgleason2527 🙂
Matt why not consider a double rood system (steel roof on top with an air gap) pioneered by Australian architect Glenn Murcutt?
It was 36 degrees here in Australia too.. Celsius! Also needs a puffy jacket.
It's "cool" to see someone talking about air barriers, solid envelope, and good insulation. As an Alaskan I'm a big fan of Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). Matt is talking the same things as them.
Alaska version of rafter tails seems easier.
Man this inspires me to try and figure out how to better my house considering it’s been added onto 3 times
I tell people if the house has already been partially remodeled more than twice, the best bet is to strip it to the studs and male a fresh start.
@@kenbrown2808 this house has been added onto three time the original part is a hundred years old
@@montebarnes8043 yeah, might be good to think about making a fresh start.
@@kenbrown2808 I would if I had the money but it’s a small house 800-900 sq ft so not much is wrong just needs electrical help
@@montebarnes8043 yeah, budget challenges are a universal thing. still, if you're dealing with original wiring, keep in mind, the correct way to bid a remodel is to calculate what it would cost to do a new house the same size, and triple it.
With the metal roofing directly on the decking will save on hail dmg
Matt - would you please provide a cross section detail of the layers in your roof? I am in the process of replacing an old EPDM 1.5/12 low sloped roof with a Sheffield metal roof. Would love to see the layers to the roof assembly on both your former home and the Monopoly framed roof. Thanks for making us all smarter with your videos!
Hi Matt, keep up the good work! Love the videos.
I'm about to do this to our house once we strip the shingles and paper, (we're going replace it with a steel roof ). Our home is one of the first solar envelope homes build in New England in the 80ies. (gambrel roof).
Question: my roof decking is plywood, after changing any boards that are bad, what do I do next before using this Hunter product? Do I put a membrane over my existing plywood? More insulation? Keep in mind that because it's a solar envelope, the space under the decking is connected to my north and south outer wall and not conditioned space. However, the heat we lose to the envelope escapes thru the top, so air seal is important. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! P. S. This might be a candidate for one of your videos.
I’m trying to meld the conditioned and unconditioned. Full soffit vent. Vented between trusses 3” deep to full ridge vent, then fiberglass air permeable inside that to R40+ in zone 4. I did it in the house I built in 1997 and it’s worked pretty well. Attic does not get 100F in heat of summer. Ceiling has R38. 2200 sf full electric house averaged $147/mo last year zone 4. Neighbor pays double mine for about 150 sf larger house.
I am currently working with Hunter Panels for this very thing. I am also working to use their sheathing, which is also insulated, but does not have a WRB built into it. I don't like the perm rating of the ZIp, so I want to use a separate WRB that is not integrated into the sheathing. They seem to be the only other player that has insulated structural sheathing.
One day when I have the ability to build my new home . I have learned so much from you ill be heating with a Mr' buddy heater and walking around in shorts lol
Very curious to see the soffit detail and how the roof ventilation transitions to the soffit. Possible to share?
Matt, how are you going to handle venting of the air gap in the Hunter panel? I think I see how you are handling the eaves. But it looks like you have the Shark Skin underlayment completely sealing the ridge, will you be cutting that open when you install the metal roof? Also a little surprised that Hunter does not add a radiant barrier on top of the polyiso. Seems like in a hot and sunny climate a foil film under that air gap could stop a lot of heat from being radiated further into the structure.
I was curious too about whether they put a radiant foil somewhere. Really don't understand why they wouldn't.
@ 4:08 "My box is nice and airtight" 😮😯😲
That's what she said!!! 🤪
That hunter decking IS the secret sauce in this. Bonded like that makes it all possible and not using purlins ("the 1x4 method") means you can use standing seam roofing which is so much better than a metal roof with THOUSANDS of holes in it. That hunter panel would also lend itsend well to the same framing and an engineered purlins system with overhangs and just a screw down metal roof like a pole barn. Unfortunately you would have to seal it all up like an old open eave house to keep varmits out but the envelope would be tight for the house.
Matt, If you decided to install solar panels on top of the roof 1-2 years from now (so that you have a net-zero house) what would be special considerations or done differently when mounting the solar panels on the roof?
Howdy Matt- can you or any of the build show network guys do a video on retrofitting a traditional southern roof assembly into a sealed or conditioned space? Any existing videos? I’m worried about unintended consequences if I just go blocking soffits and spray foaming like mad- but south MS summers in an older home are murdering my pocket book
what is the cost comparison , thanks Peter
What kind of guttering are you going to use under all those trees? You have a video for wood box guttering yet?
Northern builders might also want to keep the strapping under the metal roof. We get a lot of frost and condensation on the bottom side of our metal roofs that needs to dry.
Norther builders may also want to consider the snow load on the overhangs. Austin TX doesn't get much snow but, where I am in NH, overhangs like the ones Matt is installing would have to carry a significant amount of snow load, especially in the spring when the snow is melting and can gather at the edges. I don't think a mechanical fastened 2x supporting the overhang would fly with a NH structural engineer.
Fabulous innovation, Matt. You're a true Pathfinder. I'll never forget that roof job I helped with during a long summer heat wave in central Texas (1998). It was my job to climb into the attic and repair a few rafters. The temperature was so hot, I was sweating profusely, and I couldn't hold onto tools because they were all wet from sweat streaming off my face onto my hands. My best guess: it was >130 F. in that attic! We got it fixed, and at lunch I must have downed a gallon of lemonade! Later, I shared some very preliminary ideas with folks at Habitat for Humanity. I'm thrilled to see you elaborate the crucial details. p.s. I recently did a very rough "parametric" analysis that went like this: if proper attic venting saves an average of $25 per month in AC power, that's about $100 during 4 hottest summer months x 20 years = $2,000 saved x 1 million new Texas homes = $2 Billion USD saved by this one invention, in Texas alone! Now, extrapolate to the entire USA, then do same in Asia, Europe, Africa, Mideast, Australia and South America. The potential market for this one invention is ENORMOUS! We archived Joseph Lstiburek's great article from Fine Homebuilding here: supremelaw.org/authors/matt.risinger/PA_Crash_Course_Roof_Venting_FHB.pdf
Matt, how did you handle the Hunter air gap at the eave? Seems to me that that would be a cool place to play around a bit on how that air channel starts and terminates.
This question definitely needs addressed. :-)
You create a chimney stack along entire ridge by cutting the top plywood sheathing 1” short of ridge. You cap it with a slotted z-flash and stand-off ridge cap. Very easy and common w/standing seam roofing. It’s recommended to run reticulated pu foam behind z-flashing to prevent insects, 30 or 45 ppi works great, is widely available and cheap.
Thanks Mike but that is a roof peak detail. And an interesting one. But I think the eve venting leaves a ton of room for innovation and architectural play. I'm thinking a false fascia with a gap (filled with bug proofing) or a gap at the wall/rafter interface. Like I said how the air gets in and out could be fun. The fact that it needs to is always there though.
@@bluenadas I would cut the foam 2” short on end the cantilever 2x6 off siding , cut the ends at roof pitch and nail 1x6 fascia. I’d then run the SIP top deck over the fascia either top screwed or stapled. The drip flashing over that. On the underside, I have a soffit that I fit 1x material w/2” screen or louvered intake along entire length of soffit.
@@MichaelM-to4sg I like that idea but want if you wanted an open soffit design like Matt enjoys with nice cedar rafter tails? I’m thinking foam ends at the wall and you rip cut about 5” of a 2x6 3/4” deep to be flush at the SIP decking but allow an air gap at the wall/SIP interface. Filled air gap is hidden in shadow and the style of the open soffit is maintained?
Could you do this with a scissor truss roof also? so far it I think all of them I have seen have had the large enclosed space ... really think this is a cool building idea so much so I keep thinking about changing my plans to move to this..
Love the show! I have a question about doing a chainsaw remodel/ monopoly house. I am in zone 5 and have a 1957 ranch.the house has a tar infused sheething, wood clad siding then a layer of 1/2" foam then aluminum siding. Can I remove just aluminum siding, then add 2 inches of exterior rigid foam or should I go back to framing? Maybe somewhere in between?
Can the zip system be added to an existing part of a house while I’m building an addition? Is there a thin version that I can use to re wrap my old leaky house?
Looks great! Curious how this gets through the permitting process. Anytime I’ve designed anything outside of the box the plans examiners implode.
Have the engineer sign off the plans. That takes the pressure of the local code guys
Hey Matt, can you cover not forgetting to remember to plan for internet technology as part of the electrical plan? I've run into 3 people this week alone who had to retro-fit ethernet wiring and extra outlets into their finished new builds to get proper coverage.
I'm thinking of T-studs with foam insulation between the studs and rock wool insulation in between them.
This house will be so insulated that lighting the candles on a birthday cake could cause all your guests to strip down to their shorts.
Ha yea this house will be so insulated that.......when the front door opens the toilets flush
So...choose your birthday guests carefully!!! LOL
Matt, look into 3D printed houses. They are, by design, super air tight and it’s easy to get to Passive house standard. I would love to see a video about them with our thoughts.
Matt, what do you do for exhaust fans and plumbing vent pipes going through your roof?
The zip tape or caulk makes an amazing seal around those. Just like around windows.
Also make sure the foam of adjoining panels are adhered to each other so there are no unintended airgaps. I saw plenty of caulking between ZIP R-3 and studs. Just pay attention to the details.
1 pipe is his goal
Excellent question. If you’re having to run pipes in the middle of a panel, it would be nearly impossible to foam seal around pipe w/o cutting larger hole at deck sheathing, enough to fit foam hose around perimeter of pipe.
Of course there’s no reason for exhaust fans other than an ERV/HRV intake-exhaust, which is plumbed through wall, unless you have gas appliances. Plumbing vents too can be vented high on walls under eaves. That’s how we do it up high in Rockies.
@@kevinbloomquist2637 The wood sheathing has a rabbet joint, when fully engaged, the foam is flush. I suppose a bead of pu adhesive like Liquid Nail Ultra or Siga Primur along all mating surfaces would be an extra measure worth pursuing. The biggest area I’d be looking to use adhesive is at ridge. The foam should be mitered along ridge while the decking sheet is relieved approximately 1” short on each side of ridge creating a 2” chimney vent. Whether you seal that mating of the 2 foam panels along ridge w/adhesive or application of spray foam, sealing that joint is imperative
Always educational. Good stuff. I keep thinking you need to collaborate with Belinda Carr. Look her up.
What about bug screening the roof air gap? If you have an air gap on wall you use a bug scren to avoid stuff living in there.
This seems great for the summer, but in the winter wouldn't it be a good idea to be able to close-off the ridge vent?
I’m in the process of a major remodel. Do I need to have my architect draw this roofing system into the plans?
With these really tight houses, it becomes necessary to add controlled air exchange. Can you do a show on air exchange technologies? It would be good to understand efficacy and costs of air to air heat exchangers. Thx
Matt Ryan!!
@Matt Risinger - which trade installed the Hunter roof panels (Framers/Roofers)? Great info. Thanks.
how much is that hunter product per square? Also, would you go directly over it with the WRB or put that on the sheathing on the roof. Assuming you still need a layer of sheathing under it?
I like the the product but I wish you would have spend a little time on the venting detail thinking of something like this for my timber frame home
I have been watching your videos with much pleasure. My question is, with a house built in the 80's how do I update the attic to more of a condition space. I live in north texas
I live in Florida and had the same question my house was built in 83.
spray foam and an ERV?
Spray foam attic made a nice comfort improvement in my Georgia house. Noise reduction was an unexpected bonus.
Matt I love what u did on this roof. Question did u vent the eves to allow flow through the panels or just leave it sealed
Please do a video on spraycork. Would like to hear your opinion. Thank You!!!!!
All that sealing and taping and what-not and then you have to send fasteners through the whole thing. I assume the system dries on the inside but have you had any issues trapping moisture in that assembly?
Alright Matt , Great content as always.....but, I've got to ask....why not just build a SIPS house??? I only ask because I currently have a 1930s Colonial house in Connecticut but getting ready to move to Florida and build a brand new house by myself. The house you have here has alot in common with a SIPS house. Thanks again for all the Awesome content!! Please be safe and God Bless!!! Donny
Amazing. Why a metal roof instead of shingles? Love your vids.
Ha! Cold? Ya right! :P
Matt, did you use the newly-released Dap E90 acoustic sealant on your zip panels? I got a tube and not impressed with what I see. Seems very similar to the other cheapo white acrylic 'acoustic sealants' marketed by the usual suspects. Very little flexibility - poor tear strength/elongation/adhesion and plenty of shrinkage. But not surprising for $6 for a 28 oz tube...cheaper than Alex Plus painter's caulk.
@1:32 mark. Did not see any hurricane straps. This would have been a good time to run a metal band across some if not all the rafters and tie them into the wall to prevent uplift in any high wind storms. Or at minimum hurricane straps.
I have a question about waterproofing and air sealing a 100 year old garage. Is it possible to get your advice? I just don’t know how to do it while retaining the original structure.
Matt, what do you think about comfortboard for exterior roof insulation? I've been researching it but the suggestions aren't clear to me. R value not high enough? Expense? I'm in climate zone 5b, with snow and heat (Boulder, CO).
hebel its a good option too
My old house needs a new roof. I was thinking of adding foam to my roof before the new roof. Do I need to plug all my attic vents?
I feel like insulation value requirements are going to explode in the next few years. Is avoiding foam insulation still a concern ecologically? I’m a big fan of the dense mineral wool, although it is expensive for the R-value per inch.
Matt I love the channel and I have a simple question. How do we make this type of building affordable for the masses to adopt and use?
It’s a great question. Getting panelized Buildings like BMC’s Ready Frame process would be a great start. And having Production Builders goto these methods would be awesome too.
@@buildshow So are you thinking that if production builders did the same it would drive costing down, and that would make it more affordably built and for the masses?
@@bcimato it's not crazy to think alot of builders will be doing similar things in the near future. Building codes are gonna start requiring more efficent homes as the country tries to lessen it's energy useage. I think the market will start showing that in this next decade. And those cost effective meathods will definately become evident first.
@@ljuwt200what what does a stringed instrument, slightly larger than a violin, have to do with it?
@@ShotGunner5609 I agree about code changes in the future... But building to this level today will require sacrifices in the name of location and Sq Ft. for the average masses to afford.