Love this video the only thing I noticed is putting assembly lube under your bearings in never a great idea should always be a clean and dry surface but I'm sure they know what there doing!!
I can offer you a tip that will help you out.. Until last year, I worked for a performance shop that specializes in the GM LS/LT engine platform, the Ford Modular/Coyote platform & I usually ended up building a couple of random late model dohc engine or 2 of something like a BMW N54/N55 throughout the year. Until you aquire a really nice torque wrench that has an internal dynamic angle finder, throw that torque 5o yield gauge away. When you look at the torque to yield spec, round it to the nearest 90 degree value and use that, or use a paint marker to mark the bolt head after your initial snug value is obtained, then mark the block however many degrees from the bolt mark reflected in your tq value and tighten until your marks line up. I've seen many people with inconsistent values or untorqued (missed) bolts altogether due to the clumsiness of those torque angle gauges. Obviously they work better on some applications than others, but mostly just result in increasing the likelihood of error. Looks like you did a great job though! Congrats!! It's been a while since I've owned a e36 and even longer since I had one that still had a BMW engine in it, but that car looks like it could be a lot of fun!!
awesome that it didnt end up causing major damage. Im in the process of turboing my e46 so this is definitely encouraging. gonna double check the vanos bolts when i put the motor back together now lol
There is special tools available for the crank bolt, I used to make them for a Swedish dealer. But bmw has a variant to. You bolt them on in the front of the crank where the belt pulley sits. Works great and you can loosen the crankbolt without help I've done it several times. Make sure the crank is straight if you have locket the crank with the fly wheel to loosen the bolt. great video guys 👍
Recommend if you have to pull the god crank bolt use a 3plug adapter for an extension cord the thick orange rubber ones you can buy them from any auto and hardware store put it at the thickest crank counter lobe and you won’t have issues with breaking wooden blocks/warping the fly wheel using the lock. Attached my half inch makita roughly around 740lbs breakaway not certain but was able to get it off in about 3 mins of continuous impact. Entire body and hand definitely feel weird after but glad it’s out!
i got lucky with my crank bolt i had the motor sitting on the floor (on a tire) and all i had to use was a impact to break the junk inside the threads loose, and used a pipe wrench and 4 foot breaker bar. came off decently easy
I have a m52tu b28 E39 turbo built and Im trying to run the same intake plenum, are they vacuum lines on the top and did you run into any issues with them 😅 love the build looks mint
I spend maybe 2 hours on that crank bolt, had several people standing on the engine stand, using breaker bars with a 2 meter long pipe etc. Nothing worked. Ended up borrowing a $2000, 3500nm airgun and it was literally out in 2 seconds.
That oil varnish on the cam trays is easily removed with a soak of some Totally Awesome degreaser diluted 1:1. Also, bar magnets for the lifters so you don't drop any
Hey Joshua, Do you mind sharing the name of the machine shop that did your head and block? I have an M52 and it would be worth the drive to get it to a recommended shop.
Are you going for over 500whp on original M52 2.8 Pistons? I am on my third engine, have broken Piston all around when going over 470whp… All of mine have broken where the Rings go, not sure how it is called in English
I've got the biggest 3inch vibrant intercooler I could fit in there, I don't remember the model # sorry. It's on a VEMS standalone. I wouldn't recommend it, very dated ECU with no safetys. I'm looking to upgrade in the future
coincidence or what but this is the 2nd video about rebuilding an m50 engine and also the second video where one of the ARP studs snap. The first one where I saw it was Mat ross’s video.
Don't these have an aluminum block? If you have the engine out of the car as it is wouldn't it be wise to swap for an M50 cast iron block and M50 rods? I've always been advised not to run much more than 8PSI of boost on the M52 with the stock bottom end.
@@mr_amaris did not know that! While it appears Europe got the better M3, North America got the better M52 config. Any idea what the ceiling is on the stock head studs and gasket? (obviously once the head comes off these might as well be upgraded but for those who yet to rebuild)
it warms my heart seeing this run without any odd noises or smoke.
great job!
i wonder how he found a mechanic and shop that was cool enough with him being involved in the process and filming
They probably know each other
Almost Every mechanic shop is cool like that just depends on the person you are and the vibe you give to them.
Love this video the only thing I noticed is putting assembly lube under your bearings in never a great idea should always be a clean and dry surface but I'm sure they know what there doing!!
I can offer you a tip that will help you out.. Until last year, I worked for a performance shop that specializes in the GM LS/LT engine platform, the Ford Modular/Coyote platform & I usually ended up building a couple of random late model dohc engine or 2 of something like a BMW N54/N55 throughout the year. Until you aquire a really nice torque wrench that has an internal dynamic angle finder, throw that torque 5o yield gauge away. When you look at the torque to yield spec, round it to the nearest 90 degree value and use that, or use a paint marker to mark the bolt head after your initial snug value is obtained, then mark the block however many degrees from the bolt mark reflected in your tq value and tighten until your marks line up. I've seen many people with inconsistent values or untorqued (missed) bolts altogether due to the clumsiness of those torque angle gauges. Obviously they work better on some applications than others, but mostly just result in increasing the likelihood of error.
Looks like you did a great job though! Congrats!! It's been a while since I've owned a e36 and even longer since I had one that still had a BMW engine in it, but that car looks like it could be a lot of fun!!
awesome that it didnt end up causing major damage. Im in the process of turboing my e46 so this is definitely encouraging. gonna double check the vanos bolts when i put the motor back together now lol
There is special tools available for the crank bolt, I used to make them for a Swedish dealer. But bmw has a variant to. You bolt them on in the front of the crank where the belt pulley sits. Works great and you can loosen the crankbolt without help I've done it several times.
Make sure the crank is straight if you have locket the crank with the fly wheel to loosen the bolt.
great video guys 👍
Such a cool shop to allow you to be present and tape while they work.
Great Video, love the calm style of this. Cant wait to see the dyno results! Greetings from Germany!
Recommend if you have to pull the god crank bolt use a 3plug adapter for an extension cord the thick orange rubber ones you can buy them from any auto and hardware store put it at the thickest crank counter lobe and you won’t have issues with breaking wooden blocks/warping the fly wheel using the lock. Attached my half inch makita roughly around 740lbs breakaway not certain but was able to get it off in about 3 mins of continuous impact. Entire body and hand definitely feel weird after but glad it’s out!
Great video. Short and sweet but still in depth enough to be very interesting.
i got lucky with my crank bolt i had the motor sitting on the floor (on a tire) and all i had to use was a impact to break the junk inside the threads loose, and used a pipe wrench and 4 foot breaker bar. came off decently easy
Great vid, needed this. 190k on my s52 an I want to refresh it like this man. Good job
I'm impressed that you can get 600hp with OEM pistons and connecting rods.
Nope
@@ZORGONICAL ?
I have a m52tu b28 E39 turbo built and Im trying to run the same intake plenum, are they vacuum lines on the top and did you run into any issues with them 😅 love the build looks mint
Beautiful build
I spend maybe 2 hours on that crank bolt, had several people standing on the engine stand, using breaker bars with a 2 meter long pipe etc. Nothing worked. Ended up borrowing a $2000, 3500nm airgun and it was literally out in 2 seconds.
That oil varnish on the cam trays is easily removed with a soak of some Totally Awesome degreaser diluted 1:1.
Also, bar magnets for the lifters so you don't drop any
Let's go babyyyy!!!!
You guys are putting lube behind the bearings?
uhm, may I please ask why did you put assembly lube underneath the bearings ?
Thanks for the video. I'd love to do this with my 97 M3 (OBDII). What is the intake you are using (haven't scanned through your other videos yet).
Excellent video!
Did u try a dcf 961 ?
Awesome video! How much was the machining?
Hey Joshua,
Do you mind sharing the name of the machine shop that did your head and block?
I have an M52 and it would be worth the drive to get it to a recommended shop.
I maybe planning to build an m52b28 too... Did you change the compression ratio or did you keep the stock 10.2:1 ?
This engine was still stock. Doing to lower compression on the next motor
A m52 alu block making 600 reliably? Bruh, that makes me want to put a turbo on my m52b20 e36 vert. I would love a 300hp build to have a fun ride.
Most U.S. m52s are iron block. Like this one.
Got the same car definitely been thinking about doing the same
Weird how the crank bolt he says he Got off still is one while disasemble of Internals
I have a m52b20 one vanos, can I put a turbo on it?
Are you going for over 500whp on original M52 2.8 Pistons?
I am on my third engine, have broken Piston all around when going over 470whp…
All of mine have broken where the Rings go, not sure how it is called in English
Ringland😁
GREETINGS, YOUR PROJECT IS VERY NICE.
I HAVE A QUESTION, WHAT CPU DO YOU USE, SINCE I AM WORKING ON A PROJECT FOR A 2000 e39 2.8 MAKING IT TURBO.
I am using a VEMS ECU.
Dope I feel like ive seen this car before. You in Ontario?
Yes sir
hi, i don't understand the name of the head gasket you use, can you repeat please?
Great job! What size intercooler u go with? Link?
I've got the biggest 3inch vibrant intercooler I could fit in there, I don't remember the model # sorry. It's on a VEMS standalone. I wouldn't recommend it, very dated ECU with no safetys. I'm looking to upgrade in the future
Great build! Curious, M5025 rods are 140mm. 5 mm longer then the stock M52B28 rods. What did you do to compensate for that increased length?
I used M50B25NV rods, they are 135mm just like M52B28. However M50B25TU (vanos engine) rods are 140mm.
Glyco bearings will take any abuse 😊
coincidence or what but this is the 2nd video about rebuilding an m50 engine and also the second video where one of the ARP studs snap. The first one where I saw it was Mat ross’s video.
Don't these have an aluminum block? If you have the engine out of the car as it is wouldn't it be wise to swap for an M50 cast iron block and M50 rods? I've always been advised not to run much more than 8PSI of boost on the M52 with the stock bottom end.
This is an iron block, all north American m52s are iron blocks aside from the Z3's.
@@mr_amaris did not know that! While it appears Europe got the better M3, North America got the better M52 config.
Any idea what the ceiling is on the stock head studs and gasket?
(obviously once the head comes off these might as well be upgraded but for those who yet to rebuild)
piston ring gap?
What type of pistons did you install?
Re-used stock pistons
What pistons are used in this build?
5150 CP Carillo 9:1
What intake manifold is that?
Not sure, bought it second hand. Took alot of work to make fit properly
You wouldn't want lube under the bearings
Is this running on a stand alone
Yes on a VEMS standalone
Where did you get it tuned ?
@@manr1421 Schnell Engineering in Ontario
Thanks.
Did the video skip the part where you guys checked the crank bearing clearances or you just didn't check them?
Yes they were checked off camera 👍
Use n54 pistons
Are they a straight fit
M52b28 aluminum block am i right?
It's an iron block
American m52 have a Iron Block.
The m52 that was in the z3 in 97 is aluminum.
M52 & M54 are tanks
It bothers me how clean everything is then the crank shaft being dirty as hell
Hai can you help my to start my car
Budget and turbo build can't go together , epecially while working on an M5x platform 😂 ask me how i know
how tf is it possible that it has forged crank. WTF
We are only human. Hand built/ made anything so over rated. Prefer mine robot assembled any day.
😭😭 “i gotta do it for like 9 more years for it to pay off” i gotchu ill give u sum support