Does Your Dirt Bike Bog?
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- Опубликовано: 4 сен 2024
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It is very common for carbureted dirt bikes to bog out when you twist the throttle at low RPM. Today I'm going over how to fix the dreaded bog on a Yamaha TTR125.
-Cameron
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I should probably do something about the seat cover huh?
Cameron Niemela yup
I like it
Definitely !
But what happened with the ?! i remember from older videos the seat cover was in good shape !
Cameron Niemela That seat cover looked mint in your last video. Great video
Cameron Niemela motoseat
This video should go down in history as the absolute best explanation of a carb possible
100% agree with that!!!
Nice!!
Scott Jane i’m hearin ya hey! It ABSOLUTELY is the BEST video about this🤟
Thanks bud for this vid
He is amazing at explaining mechanics of bikes. Love your stuff.
Another video explaining the same problem was an hour and four minutes long. This one... ten minutes. Good job Cameron.
Very good video, spot on! I'm a retried longtime racer and professional engine tuner over 40 years in before I retired last year. The only thing I would just like to mention to go along with this fantastic video for the others watching this video is:
The Pilot Screw screw adjustment can work in one of two ways depending on the type of carb your bike has, on some carbs the Pilot Screw is an Air Screw and on other ones it’s a Fuel Screw and they work in opposite ways, see below.
1. On some carbs the screw is actually an Air Screw and the further you turn the screw in it will reduce air introduced into the circuit and make the bike richer at idle and tip in off idle. Turn screw out and more air is introduced into that circuit making bike leaner at idle and tip in.
2. On other carbs the screw is actually the opposite, and is a Fuel Screw so it’s the exact opposite of above 1. when you turn the screw in and the bike gets leaner, and turn it out it bike gets richer at idle and tip in.
For both carb types above when adjusting the screw, adjust it slowly as the change in mixture does not change right away you have to be patient , move it a 1/4 turn and let the bike run a thirty seconds between adjustments.
What type is my bike Fuel Screw or Air Screw??? This can be tricky to figure out if your carb is on the bike. If you turn the screw so that the motor achieves its highest RPM at idle say it was at 1200 at startup and you turn the screw in and out slowly when the motor is say at 1400 that’s a good starting point. Once that has been found, shut off the bike and look to see how many turns out that point is from the lightly seated all the way in on the screw, don't force it in, just to the point when you feel any resistance. This high idle point should be in the range of 1 to 2 turns out for both types, as more than 2 turns is already max for the circuit, if its not your pilot jet may be too big or to small depending if your pilot jet circuit is effected by design as an 1. Air Screw or as a 2. Fuel Screw as per 1. or 2. above. You can also test off idle response after the high idle point, try to rev the motor off idle and see if your motor stumbles, if it does if your in the 1-1/2 turn range you can move it in or out and see if the response is better.
Finally, if the carb is off your bike you can use brake cleaner to blow liquid thru the circuit and change the screw adjustment to see what is which way makes more or lest fuel to come out the circuit. Be careful not to get an eyeball full of brake clean when doing this that way. Regards, Reg Riemer
Yes I agree, like you tuning and working bikes cars for 40 years and still learning. Be careful with brake clean around rubber carb parts it can damage them. Contact clean better choice- I learned the hard way.Most of the time if it's an air screw it's at the air box side of carb, fuel screw is at motor side. Air screw is blunt and no O Ring, Fuel screw is sharp with O ring. Pilot circuit is really important even in the mid range. Don't forget to check where the Jet Needle pos. is also working on lots of old stuff people move things they shouldn't. Thanks again really good video. Sincerely Denis Kerechuk
Yer 100 percent 2 strokes are air screws four strokes are feul screws , with 2 strokes good to adjust other lil screw at bottom of carb aswell to get it crisp and responsive
Can I ask, how did you get into the professional racing and engine tuning world. I want to start but I dont know whether to go to school or just teach myself everything and get into work that can accelerate my learning
@@succulentstan The best way to learn is to go out Racing something, Cars Drag, Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, quads, you need to learn the hard way about what melts engines. And there are many things that do, Too much spark advance, too little spark advance. Too rich a mixture, too lean a mixture, incorrect fuels, fuel delivery problems, pumps injectors or carbs.
@@regriemer2351i have a question.. i have a husqvarna 610.. i struggle with some bog and something that feels like fuel/ignition cut while riding at "normal" speeds/rpms.. great idle and open throtle but fels like you ar twisting key on/of/on/of whil just cruicing...
If i dont close the fuel petcock while parked it drips alot of fuel.
The carb has a dual thortle wire input on the side not the good ol nedle on top with a spring and chim that can be adjusted as far as i cab understand.
PLEAS HELP SOMEONE!
Affew tips for bogging! you have to diagnose whether its a lean or rich bog. rich bog is when it bogs then gains rpm, lean bog is when it bogs and dies, this may not be the case if your jetting is way off, if your bike used to run good and now bogs or runs crappy I wouldn't touch the jetting as its most likely a blocked jet or something worn like the needle or float valve or air leak, blocked air filter, old fuel, id go through the basic things before touching jetting. Jetting should only be adjusted when your bike is fully warm if its liquid cooled that is when you cant touch the radiator cap, air cooled can be abit harder to tell should be warm enough after a 5min ride. On most modern 4 stroke bikes they have pumper carbs which has a mixture screw, easy to tell twist the throttle and it should squirt fuel into the intake also the mixture screw is normally underneath if unsure look your carb up online, clockwise is leaner anti-clockwise is richer (older farm 4 strokes or pitbikes normally have 2 stroke carbs). 2 strokes have an air bleed screw which are normally located on the side of the carb clockwise is richer anti-clockwise is leaner. if u have a lean bog u can try to richen the mix screw or richen the needle by raising the needle which means lowering the clip or bigger main jet. a rich bog is the opposite, if its a lean bog it can be clogged jets and if it dies after a couple seconds of wot not straight away then it can be the float height or clogged fuel filter. Only boggs over bumps or jumps could be worn fuel needle that leaks with vibration causing the bike to flood. Bike doesn't start at all and can smell fuel float could be stuck, can just hit the bowl with a screwdriver saves taking the carb to bits, but if it happens often would be worth pulling apart and cleaning. If it only runs on choke your idle jet is clogged, if it runs better on choke you need to richen the circuit its running on. Depending on what stage of the needle your bike bogs at will tell you what you will need to adjust, 1/4 throttle idle jet 2/4 needle, half throttle needle and main jet, and full throttle mostly main jet, obviously this should just be used as a rough idea there are some great places and books that you can read to get a better understanding. Btw If you you are expecting to instantly go wot from idle very fast it will always bog unless you have a newer 4 stroke or efi, if you do have a pumper carb and it bogs when you blip the throttle and jetting is fine you can adjust the linkage on the carb that pushes the diaphragm that squirts the fuel in the carb. Highly recommend buying the mikuni tuning manual explains things far better than I can.
.
WeeBeast does this also apply to when it only runs with choke on that also bogs
@@cadenjames442 When you need choke to run after warm-up it's a plugged or restricted pilot jet. Fix that first then follow tips in this video to clear bog if still present after pilot jet cleaning or replacement.
On some carburetors you can (if lean bog) adjust accelerator pump circuit
Mine usually goes fine its a 2017 crf 230.
If i hold it wide open and let off instantly down a little hill sometimes it will shut off and act like it ran out of gas. There is no saving it if it starts to shut off either. It wont just start up after i have to wait 5 minutes or so.
I just took it out for the first ride in 3 or 4 months and it went fine. I drove a couple miles filled it up and on the way back just crusing along it shut off and wouldnt start.
WeeBeast hey bro just wanna thank ya for this comment. Read it last night, my pit bike has a brand new engine in it and I just got a chinese Mikuni carb. Put it on and it bogged out so bad, dad said raise and lower the needle etc and see which runs best then play with the mixture screw. Kept reading back on your comment and about 3 hours later hey presto! Bike started, ran with no revs up and down and no bogging at all!! Looked high and low for a decent video/blog to find out how to fix but all were too technical. You made it straight forward and simple. Thanks again bro.
I've messed with a lot of carbs and I found your video help me tie my existing knowledge together very well. This 10 min video has made me a better small carb tuner. Thank you for sharing and the great imagery that brought it together. I'm working on a 81 fl250 that I just got. It tough because several mods have been done but original carb is still there.
Hey same boat, picked up an 85 fl350 with an aftermarket Keihin 34 that stumbles on throttle and won't rev out, going to be attaching the tuning tomorrow thanks to this video!
Cam, your the best teacher I've found for small engine troubleshooting. You might consider a teaching career.
I've watched 3 minutes of your channel and I've learned more about my engine than any other video on RUclips lol thanks for bring so detailed! You gained another subscriber within minutes!
Thank You Chad!
Broward vee
Dude u just saved my pit bikes (ttr 125) life thaks dude!!
a 125 is not a pitbike
Yes it so a apolo 125cc is not a pit bike
What was the problem with yours mine is a ag 125
@@arefknb4914 probably a clogged jet if you have it all original DONT change the jets just clean em
@@mechanic4744 haha no joke it was the main jet cleaned it out chucked it back togethor ran really nice and then the chain got caught up and i wasnt able to kick it put force to the fly wheel to make it turn and i was able to kick it over and then it started making a slight click here and there and the click would even make the the engine cut out think it has something to do with the gaers and i cant even get the bolts off as there tight and really wont come off and being a little rusty they didnt hold up well againts the pressure of me trying to loosen it one of em kinda rounded and i was like fuck it. Long story short it was unlucky for me i guess
Kick ass info m8. Very clear and concise info and the music wasn’t interfering at all. Keep it up bud!
5 years later and I’m still watching your video’s , Awesome work your doing my brother, your helping so many people with you video’s.
Love how he explains everything and goes into detail about what does what soo helpful!
If you can see the drain tube on your bow at the bottom, bend the clear tube up to the side of bowl and undo drain screw in the bike petrol on. The fuel will come up the tube and find its level which should be horizontal where carb bowl comes apart. Very simple plus accurate. Adjust and recheck if needed.
Great Idea Thanks!!!
Okay, I'm 56 years old. Been riding since I was 6. Have had 84 bikes so far. Owned a Yamaha Dealership. Never had this explained so well. Damn dude! Cameron, is there a way to graft a CRf150R rear swingarm, wheel disk brake, etc. onto a CRF150F? Not too concerned with cost. Just want the best CRF150F I can build (and race). Yes, there is a class for these locally that does NOT include the CRF150R, but you can modify the F model all you want! Any suggestions would be appreciated!!
Check with BBR or Thumpertalk. The shock linkage geometry is the tricky part with swapping swingarms.
@@hrbestalkinme3690 Thank you! Great suggestions.
Can you use a 150r frame? That would be a fun route! Also check thumptalk for specs on the swinger and find out if theres any better swap options or kits you can buy
Those crf150 you can make them 250cc easy
84 bikes, wow, that's a big list.im at 25 dirt bikes,10 quads, 0 Street bikes
I'm at my 125cc Apollo db37 for about 3 years now didn't know nothing about bikes but i had a passion and eager to learn so I did videos like this definitely helped me years ago when I was coming up but not riding for about a year some change I'm back here to get my basics in order
This video is the best video for fixing up your carb! I have a little 125cc quad that was bogging so bad when I gave throttle, all my mates said it’s either the slide or air/fuel screw. But I didn’t think it was any of that as it ran good before, and after watching this I realised that my float was out of line (running too lean) and I liked the fact how he said that bumpy roads after can stuff a float up, and that made perfect sense as the day it started playing I was out on the bumpiest road ever. Cheers mate, keep up the good work!
Your videos are so simple to understand and right to the point. Thank you so much for all your time and effort!
Yes very straight to the point and easy to understand. Thanks-
One of the best carb videos on RUclips.
Two things I would add. One, take a Nickel round wound guitar string and put it through the jets like a super small bore brush. Then blow them out. It JUST worked for me with a snow blower carb this week. Also, after you remove the main jet, remove the main jet emulsion tube and blow it out while you're in there. Just saying. Great videos. I watch them all the time.
it’s crazy how i’ve been watching your brother on his car videos now i got a dirt bike and watch all yours good stuff man keep it up
All of your videos are amazing. You take the time to explain why stuff should be done and you actually explain how to do each step of the process. I turn to your channel when it comes to working on my 94/96 RM 250. Thanks for the in-depth look and learn. Keep them video's rolling.
This video is amazing....you aren't acting like a You Tube wannabe and your explanations are so concise and easy to follow.
Even though a two stroke is supposed to be so easy to work on....there is sooooo much that the average person hasn't got a clue about......me for one.
Thank you and can you make loads of vids please covering the most common problems with Two Strokes...?!?
From A to Z troubleshooting of a bogging down engine.The best on RUclips! Keep the good work!
Thanks for sharing this, so helpful, finally got my pit bike running properly! Don’t know which one of the things worked, just did them all plus took spark plug cap off and recut HT lead.
Hey Cam - new subscriber here, but wanted to say your videos are very informative, and helpful. I have a 08 CRF100F and an 08 TTR110E, and your review on the carburetor was very helpful in fixing a bogging problem i have had on the Honda. Thanks!.
Thank you so much. I just sold my Crf450 and bought 2 85cc 2 strokes that had this exact problem! After watching this video I regret my decision a little less 🥲
Awesome video. I'd add just one thing; for the diagnosis, it's easier to pull the air filter first than the carb - a dirty/blocked filter might give the same symptoms as a blocked jet or badly adjusted float. Other than it's pretty much the same method I use in the shop :P
damn dude this is the most comprehensive and easy to understand carb lesson I've seen. Thanks man! I'm saving this one for future reference.
This was so helpful. Thanks. My 2011 wr450 was bogging and running rough and when ever I tiped it over just a bit it would piss out fuel. And he was right. The floats were too high
I've done many things carb related on my dirtbike before, but I've never heard about checking the float height. You really have some mad skills when it comes to dialing in the carb for optimum performance
also check your fuel lines and filter, i mustve taken my carb apart 10 times before relizing my fuel line was kinked and not allowing enough fuel through
wish I would have found this video about 2 weeks ago. I had just got my carb tuned last night. this video would have saved me some time
I appreciate all the replies to my comment. Thank you guys! And thank you Cameron!!
Best carb vid on RUclips, hands down
Great video! But I think you could have also gone into needle height adjustment also. That plays a big role on the main jet also. Again good video. Helped me remember fine tuning tips.
Thank you so much!!!! The bike set for 30 plus years!!!! Runs amazing now!!! It was the air gas mixture screw this whole time the guy I bought it off of rebuilt the carburetor and he didn’t have it set right this video is awesome
Amazing videos! I love when people tell you the why what and hows of how to do something. Not just this is how you do it.
Legend mate sorted my problems right out, my bike runs like a true buet now
The float height also sets the fuel pressure on gravity-fed carbs. If there is too much fuel in the bowl your pressure will be higher and that's why it runs rich and runs out the overflow because of the physical amount of fuel. Too low and you don't have fuel pressure pushing up into the jets and it runs lean.
Maybe thats why my crf 230 shut off a couple miles later after i filled it up. It wouldnt start.
It will shut off too if i get low on gas and let off the throttle at once while its wide open.
Do you think this is running lean or rich?
Thank you!
ruclips.net/video/VJR_qqCug6A/видео.html
I disagree there are vent holes on the carb so the pressure in the bowl stays at atmospheric pressure
Sorry bud, you’re wrong.
@@slickricktheruler your comment isn't as helpful maybe as you thought. We need more information. What's wrong with my understanding of setting float height?
dude best simple carby explanation ever
I like your systematic approach from the easier to chech and fix to more hard to access root causes. I wish I knew it 5 years ago :-) . It seems the exposion in UV light made not only plasics and seat cover, but also handlebar protector fragile.
Really appreciated this video. My 02cr250 just started having bogging problems today on some trails.
i have an '01 cr125 and have started running into bogging problems. let me know when you find out whats wrong with it please
Thanks ! My floats must definately be low. Overflows fuel sometimes onto the trailer during transport.
I know right. Guys lay their bike over and go running to turn it off, I go running to turn off my fuel valve LOL
Your vids are deadly, couldn't be better quality and explained so anyone can understand it. Keep it up!
Just did this and found it was my float now its pissing fuel out of the overflow....
did you ever fix it mate lmao
@@georgebowman8288 I wonder
Still wondering... Wadda cliffhanger
Still wondering
This guy is an absolute ducking legend bro we need more people like you in the motorbike community 👍
Thanks this really helped me fix my bike
My son and I are going to hit this check list next weekend. Thank you!
2:00 That plug looks extremely rich in the video lol.
rich is better for dirt bikes, fool. as long as it isnt fouling off the start is fine
@@uziXwraith why name him fool bro you can also say that without that
@@uziXwraith all he said was the plug looks like it's running rich, how that makes him a fool is beyond me. Pretty large assumption there....
Not just dirt bikes though, air cooled engines in general.
@@uziXwraith yes if you dont wanna make peak power. Lean is mean fool or you could be smart and run it perfect ps that plug is wayyyy! Too black
My wr450 bogs quite hard. And this video has inspired me give these tips a try thank you well explained
My TTr 250 only does this on the first rev after starting it cold.
Anonym us it’s cold, let it warm up
My TTR 230 does that as well, I let it warm up and the bog always goes away.
thanks man! im only 12 and i work on my klx125l i had a issue with it not idling it was the mixture screw and it didn't return to idle that well and i'm still trying to figure that out but this helped cuz it bogged too but your vids have helped me solve every problem on my bike. thanks!
Really helpful video 👌
eujj jij ook hier xD
Fr I was stuck for awhile until I stumbled across this vid 👏🏼
How does this not have 1M views. I’ve never seen a better video
Now I have a better idea of why my WR idles like crap. I'm still not sure why it's so hard to start though. Thanks for explaining the float and jets. Maybe at some point, you could do an entire video on each piece of the carb and problems each piece can create.
Nick Childs check the valves if it’s hard to start
Nick Jones I do all the time but they're always in spec
Check your jets. Check your carburator for airleaks, adjust the needle and clean the airfilter and check if you have the right spark plug.
Nick Childs buy a ultrasonic cleaner and chuck the entire carb in it
I know I’m late. I have a drz125 and It turned out i was adjusting my air mixture screw . I was really trying to adjust my idle speed. I watched the video now it runs good. Thanks man. Subscribed!
When you say -"If your bike has a fuel filter".
Shouldn all bike run with a fuel filter?
In my mind running without a fuel filter is a recipe for trouble with your carb
No it helps a lot
Some bikes don’t. You might be thinking of an oil filter?
Good point.& You have to clean your fuel tank out occasionally, mine got clogged w/ dust last week, starved the fuel line, I was at a riding area & had to push back to truck, removed tank, wash out crap, then fuel flowed o.k.
Just discovered this channel not too long ago and I've watched several of your videos. Gotta say man you have some of those most helpful/informative videos I've found. Clean editing and great explanations. Keep up the nice work!
It only bogs when I’m in gear and give it a bunch of throttle, yes mine is carbureted and it’s a high output, does anyone know the problem
Same for me, only 2nd gear, bogs like it dies for a secound, did you find the problem ? :) my carb also drips if i dont turn of the fuel when i put it away
If your carb leaks your floats are probably stuck open. Remove the float bowl and clean it. Make sure the pin the floats push on when it’s full drop down.
Im so glad i found your video! I just got my ttr 125 back from my mechanic and within a couple days of riding it, it began to bog out. Im almost certain that the problem is gonna be a clogged main, and, or pilot jet cause i did notice some bits of dirt in the fuel tank, so i siphoned the fuel out of the tank and to my surprise it was more than just a bit of dirt in the tank, it was alot! Im guessing that i didn't quite get it all out, and now the pilot jet is clogged. Thanks to you 🙏 and your wonderful video, i now know what to do to fix the problem.
Keep up the good work!
Very helpful. I did all the stuff you said and it works well now. I only had one small spring left over. Don’t know where that came from, but it seems to work without it. 😃
Thought the thumbnail was a slightly altered Romanatwood
Dylon Desbiens me to love your vids
I know I just subscribed I keep for getting to
My bike bogs when it is hot. It's a 1985 Honda XL80S, with 2,000 miles. It's 35 years old Now, and this stsrted happening in the last 3-4 years. Thinking it was a lean problem, I have cleaned the carb many times to fix this "bogs when hot" issue, but it still does it. I xleaned the insides veey thoroughly and even ran a wire from a wire brush through any little internals I could find, including the two hollow screws inside the bowl. I removed those to clean them.
All fuel lines are good, flow well, cap vent is good, carb. floats are plastic and look good, and the filler pin and its rubber tip looks like new. Again, I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the two brass screws inside the bowl. One is an assembly of 2 or 3 brass pcs. both have a central hole and several cross-drilled holes on the probe section beyond their threads.
Outside the carb, I only see one screw, the idle adjustment. I cannot find the fuel-air adjust screw, if there IS one. Is it hidden behind a metal plug?
Could the carburetor be fine and the coil or condenser are dying?
The gas is fresh and the spark plug is fine.
The engine bog starts when I have the 80 out on the road, after about 1-2 miles. Once it begins, from that point on, I limp home trying not to give it too much throttle. Any throttle twist that puts any torque load on it when it is hot, and it bogs.
Again, gas gets to the carb very well. I have even removed and replaced the gas cap to check for tank vacuum, and letting it be at the surrounding air pressure doesn't make the bog go away.
If anyone can help me figure this out, I would really appreciate it.
Love the thumbnail lol😂
Clear direction
Easily understood
Great video big Guy💪✅
What happened to the seat cover?
It was super brittle from sitting in the sun and started falling apart as soon as I rode the bike haha. I have have given it a little help too lol
Nick Jones girlfriend ‘s crotch got hungry.
That my dear boy is from what we call raising hell on your dirt bike. Read your manual man! It says there on page one: these bikes are not for soft tailed sissies, and are made for only one thing. Raising seventeen circles of hell lol
I don't understand how 67 people could dislike this video?
"clean the Jets with a dust off can..." What about damn carburetor cleaner?!
Take them out then. Be careful with them, lay them in a paper towel. Then use carb cleaner. Remember where they go. This is what I do.
Hands down, tne of the best carburetor field repair explanation
you really saved me out there
My fuel screw is gone where can I find some screws
Dude, thank you soooooo much for this!!! I bought a 110cc Taotao and for the life of me I could not find out why the bike kept bogging! After watching your video, I learned that the bike was shipped to me with the fuel screw tightened all the way! I had to use a drill to loosen it!
Cameron, when I tried to go out two full turns with the fuel screw the bike started leaking gas at a pretty quick pace. So, I tightened it back all the way and just opened it 1 half turn. Again, this did the trick but according to your advice, 2 to 2 and 1/2 turns is the norm. Am I playing with the right screw??? LOL!
My 90 cc 4 wheeler has this same problem and I've done everything you've suggested in this video and it still bogs. It idles great on its own and when the back wheels are held off the ground it goes full throttle without bogging, does anyone know what my problem could be
Charlie Leonhart could be a fuel delivery issue, or low compression
if you are a heavier rider it may be your gearing is too short
Maybe an ignition problem
Man, I'd love your knowledge of bikes. Getting a older small 2 stroke for the misses, cause she wants to try off-roading with my budget it's probably gonna be more of a project bike lol. Your videos with help a ton!
Thanks for watching man! Good luck on the bike search
Ya cause my bike don't even idle right now
UR GOAT ETHAN mess with the idle screw and clean the jets with a tiny drill bit
Ok
Ty Burns thx I'll have 2 find time to work on it it also does the leak the gas thing even if it's running so I think the carb really needs to be adjusted or replaced (it's a old bike and altho I've had it for years the person before me really abused it)
UR GOAT ETHAN it's just a little screw on the side of the carb just take a Flathead to it it's nothing tbh
on most carbs (at least that I've seen) you don't even need a screwdriver, you can just twist it with your fingers
Your clearly knowledgeable about fixing Dirt bikes of all kinds.
Knows nothing
I didn’t know jets were in dirt bikes
Pro//boy are you serious
You are the kind of buddy everyone should have
Ha! Guessed the new video ;) What did I won :D
SupermotoTrolls dis dick
I just bought a WR450F that had some mods done to it ... it will only run when you keep the choke on. They told me it needed to be rejetted so thanks for explaining the jets like you did it might help me out fixing this prob...
Best carb video I’ve seen by far.
I just went through the fuel screw adjustment on my Philippines Honda XR150. I replaced the fuel screw with an extended fuel screw so that adjustments can be made with no tools or at worst, needle nose pliers. It ran like crap when I first installed it, sparkplug indicated that it was way rich. So I screwed it in all the way & went rich in 1/4 turn increments until I was happy with the throttle response and transition from low speed to high speed. I took a plug reading every time I adjusted it and rode the bike. I recommend everyone replace the fuel screw with the extended type. I made my idle screw finger adjustable too.
I hope this helps Cameron is the best mechanic in the world 🤝 thankyou
Kickstarting it from in front of the bike, that's pretty cool! Badass, never would've thought of that
Outstanding. now i can get the TTR125 to stop bogging, its been driving me crazy. I just need to adjust the float, it spills fuel every time you lean in on the kick stand. I knew that couldn't be right. Thanks
Ttr 225 was doing the exact same thing, this helped so much man, thanks!
under the float there is a pin sometimes dirt builds up there make sure that is clean also make sure there is no air leaks to the carburetor from the lines or the T that connects the lines never run tank empty cause old gas and water will ruin the carb lines and will let rust and dirt enter the carb
I had a TTR125 which had a bog problem when opening the throttle, it also needed a lot of time to warm up, so I went up two sizes for the Pilot Jet, opened up the fuel air mixture screw to 2.25 turns, and had to open the idle knob also a bit, but after that, there was no more bogging when opening throttle and the bike would start without needing the choke, just thought I should share. Thank you again.
best trouble shoot vid for the ttr125, thanks!
I just put a 143cc bore kit on my 110 and it was acting like it was super rich and bogging thanks for the video
How can you own a yamaha dealership and not know this? This is farmboy 1.01 tech right here,been doing all this for forty years on generators,outboard motors,pressure washers,you name it...... but it is all great info for beginners nonetheless. Look for the simple problems first,usually fuel system,occasionally coils or plugs,but a clear logical approach and a little patience will usually get the job done. Happy riding,stay safe folks!👌🏴
My 1970 Super Cub that I just bought has this issue after my uncle fix the no spark issue (previous owner replace points and condensor and installed the points wrong) Hopefully your video will help get the bike running properly. I just want to go back and forth from work on the little bike and hopefully piss off some cars for going too slow.
Bro, late to the party but that video makes me want to send you a seat cover. Excellent!
I have a lil sandblaster just for plugs. U can put two in then sand plast away. Super clean.
my bike has had a really bad bog, im new to biking so im very thankful for this 👌
I just used this video saved me time , plus 1 million times more/better info. than in manuals
Thanks for explaining the carb float settings and how to adjust...
Great info on measuring float height. I have a vintage bike I cleaned up the carb on years back that needs re adjustment/cleaning so this is super useful.
I looked up for it, after that youtube suggested it. Which is a better and all together explanation than the others. Good job youtube. lol
Level" with the float bowl is a baseline setting for some carbs but certainly not all, always look at a manual specific to that carburetor and bike to determine what correct is.