I doubt I’ll ever want to own a Mercedes, but I’m always open to how things work and go together, so this video was certainly not a waste of my time. 😁👍🔧 Editing and other notes: you changed twice with the timing of the steering reset (from 2 to 3 and back to 2 seconds). Also, counting out loud - one thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three is much more precise than simply counting up. One other thing - I don’t believe I heard your reason for replacing those batteries. This was the first thing I wanted to know.
Firstly sorry for the delayed response. The steering is 2 seconds as I said and noted, I had mistakenly said the windows and sunroof were as well 2 second and that’s why I corrected myself and made clear with the captions that that was 3 seconds and only the steering was 2. I realize my counting was a little rushed but the reset did work so I guess it’s not super sensitive. I did mention actually that I had both battery warning lights on the dash, as well I had a fail to crank directly after purchasing it because we had all the doors open when we looked it over, I had to boost it so I knew the battery was the issue. I also replaced the alternator as preventative maintenance although it was charging fine still. It’s a good idea to replace the batteries before they fail on a vehicle like this with everything being computerized low voltage can cause an array of secondary issues and even damage components. Buying a used Mercedes like this is actually a pretty affordable option... When I was shopping for this I found equivalent SUV’s from other brands with similar mileage to be similarly priced, this is worth more new but luxury vehicles depreciate faster. As well parts seem to be similarly priced in the aftermarket, as yet I haven’t had a need for dealer parts and I find it easy to work on myself.
Hi Matt, firstly thanks for your informative videos they really help. I recently purchased a 2006 Mercedes-Benz ML 350 with around 100km on it. The car seems to be in great shape aside from a couple dings and scratches. My question to you is about the P0016 and P0017 codes that come up. It is saying the camshaft/crankshaft sensors need to be replaced. I'm worried about the future of the car because they are known to have problems with the timing chain and sprockets wearing away. What's the best way to keep such a repair from happening and maintain a healthy timing chain/sprocket system? Cheers!
Firstly apologies for my delayed response! This is a great question and something I hope to talk about when I do a review on my ML. Hopefully in your case those codes really are caused by bad sensors, I’d try to change them. If you check out my oil change video I actually strained my oil to check for metal shavings that would indicate wear to the balance shaft gear. That is the first step to me is knowing if your vehicle already has the issue. If you are lucky like I was and your oil is free of metal, then focus on using high grade oil, synthetic is a must, I went with Mobil1, change it sooner then later etc. Understand that the balance shaft gear, which is the one that wears is in the middle of the engine, I’m not totally sure on how that area of the engine receives oil but it is typical in a setup like this that the lower gear runs in the oil that’s in the base of the engine, the cam gears may or may not receive oil from the cam oilers but I’m almost certain the balance shaft gear only gets oiled from whatever is on the chain. So now with that understanding you can see that high engine RPMS would fling oil off the chain causing the balance shaft gear to lack oil at the same time as it’s being exposed to an increased amount of friction... This is why I drive mine gentle, as a rule, I don’t rev it past 4,000RPM and generally try for lower, I believe low RPMS is the number one thing you can do to make it last. Stay tuned, I’ll have more ML vids coming, I try to stay on top of potential issues with my cars so my videos offer a lot of tips to help avoid issues.
Just a thought, I had the grey battery warning symbol and replaced the AUX battery with a $20 aftermarket replacement and the warning went away and i'm still driving with what is the original main battery i believe, (stamped 01/07 - The same as the date of the vehicle manufacture) on the terminal, so I think it is the original main battery and am amazed, however the carpet had been cut already, so I believe the Aux battery had been replaced before already at least once but not the main AGM main battery. Does this sound plausible to you? (AGM life over Lead Acid)
I had the dealership change my battery a week ago. Now the ignition (with the key in it) wont budge, sunroof wont work, display screen wont respond to buttons on steering wheel.
I would definitely be returning to the dealer and asking them what they did wrong. Could be a coincidence but it sounds like they didn’t make a good connection on the new battery. Good luck, that sounds very annoying.
Nope, not true at all, you just do the simple relearn procedure like I showed and all will be good. These vehicles are actually really easy to work on for the most part.
I doubt I’ll ever want to own a Mercedes, but I’m always open to how things work and go together, so this video was certainly not a waste of my time. 😁👍🔧 Editing and other notes: you changed
twice with the timing of the steering reset (from 2 to 3 and back to 2 seconds). Also, counting out loud - one thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three is much more precise than simply counting up. One other thing - I don’t believe I heard your reason for replacing those batteries. This was the first thing I wanted to know.
Firstly sorry for the delayed response. The steering is 2 seconds as I said and noted, I had mistakenly said the windows and sunroof were as well 2 second and that’s why I corrected myself and made clear with the captions that that was 3 seconds and only the steering was 2. I realize my counting was a little rushed but the reset did work so I guess it’s not super sensitive. I did mention actually that I had both battery warning lights on the dash, as well I had a fail to crank directly after purchasing it because we had all the doors open when we looked it over, I had to boost it so I knew the battery was the issue. I also replaced the alternator as preventative maintenance although it was charging fine still. It’s a good idea to replace the batteries before they fail on a vehicle like this with everything being computerized low voltage can cause an array of secondary issues and even damage components. Buying a used Mercedes like this is actually a pretty affordable option... When I was shopping for this I found equivalent SUV’s from other brands with similar mileage to be similarly priced, this is worth more new but luxury vehicles depreciate faster. As well parts seem to be similarly priced in the aftermarket, as yet I haven’t had a need for dealer parts and I find it easy to work on myself.
Exceptional video! Superior job. Thank you.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Hi Matt, firstly thanks for your informative videos they really help. I recently purchased a 2006 Mercedes-Benz ML 350 with around 100km on it. The car seems to be in great shape aside from a couple dings and scratches. My question to you is about the P0016 and P0017 codes that come up. It is saying the camshaft/crankshaft sensors need to be replaced. I'm worried about the future of the car because they are known to have problems with the timing chain and sprockets wearing away. What's the best way to keep such a repair from happening and maintain a healthy timing chain/sprocket system? Cheers!
Firstly apologies for my delayed response! This is a great question and something I hope to talk about when I do a review on my ML. Hopefully in your case those codes really are caused by bad sensors, I’d try to change them. If you check out my oil change video I actually strained my oil to check for metal shavings that would indicate wear to the balance shaft gear. That is the first step to me is knowing if your vehicle already has the issue. If you are lucky like I was and your oil is free of metal, then focus on using high grade oil, synthetic is a must, I went with Mobil1, change it sooner then later etc. Understand that the balance shaft gear, which is the one that wears is in the middle of the engine, I’m not totally sure on how that area of the engine receives oil but it is typical in a setup like this that the lower gear runs in the oil that’s in the base of the engine, the cam gears may or may not receive oil from the cam oilers but I’m almost certain the balance shaft gear only gets oiled from whatever is on the chain. So now with that understanding you can see that high engine RPMS would fling oil off the chain causing the balance shaft gear to lack oil at the same time as it’s being exposed to an increased amount of friction... This is why I drive mine gentle, as a rule, I don’t rev it past 4,000RPM and generally try for lower, I believe low RPMS is the number one thing you can do to make it last. Stay tuned, I’ll have more ML vids coming, I try to stay on top of potential issues with my cars so my videos offer a lot of tips to help avoid issues.
nice work sir thank you
Happy to help, thanks for the feedback.
Just a thought, I had the grey battery warning symbol and replaced the AUX battery with a $20 aftermarket replacement and the warning went away and i'm still driving with what is the original main battery i believe, (stamped 01/07 - The same as the date of the vehicle manufacture) on the terminal, so I think it is the original main battery and am amazed, however the carpet had been cut already, so I believe the Aux battery had been replaced before already at least once but not the main AGM main battery. Does this sound plausible to you? (AGM life over Lead Acid)
I had the dealership change my battery a week ago. Now the ignition (with the key in it) wont budge, sunroof wont work, display screen wont respond to buttons on steering wheel.
I would definitely be returning to the dealer and asking them what they did wrong. Could be a coincidence but it sounds like they didn’t make a good connection on the new battery. Good luck, that sounds very annoying.
@@CarswithNash It is horrible. I have to get my car towed in.
Thank you for the quick response!!
Matt I was told I had to have the dealer “reset” the car after I replace the battery. Do you know this to be true??
Nope, not true at all, you just do the simple relearn procedure like I showed and all will be good. These vehicles are actually really easy to work on for the most part.
6:43 Just like that.
No bro..you have to tear the car appart to change it
Only if you are the first one changing the battery.
Ba-Tree, ba-tree, batree, you're driving me crazy, man. It should be pronounced BA-TTERY instead of BA-TREE.