Thanks for making these videos. I like how you edit out the parts where you drill through the hull or feed your lines. It would just add unnecessary time to your video. Helpful, concise, and inspiring. Good stuff. And no "sponsors"👍
No nonsense, always helpful tutorials. Super slick, clean install. Looks factory fresh. They make foot pegs where the track is curved so it might fit the hull shape a little better. Thanks for all your excellent videos!
@@Aksmaniyak Your pedal steering is great. Would it be possible to add the speed control to, say, the right pedal? Almost like an old-school riding lawnmower? That would make everthing to do with the moter handsfree.
Enjoy your videos!!!! Nice Install. I installed a similar setup on an old NuCanoe that I owned as a backup to an electronic steering setup that I made. I also used the same foot pedal setup as you and they worked very well. I am sure you will like your new setup. Real professional job. You are the man!!!!!
Awesome! I just did this on my new Outlaw before I even got it wet! Those guitar ports are perfect. I did the front a little bit different though, I used the guitar ports there too just under the back of the foot brace. Seems like that is working well so far!
Thanks Darren! I thought about that but felt the exit angle might bind the dyneema cord. The less bends and turns in the tubing gives a smoother control. Let me know how it goes.
I enjoy your ideas and videos. One bit of constructive criticism though. When you're done with the install of your idea you should show an on the water clip of it in action. Thanks for making these though!
@@Aksmaniyak that's good to hear. I've seen a couple. It would be nice to see them in the actual video as well though. Kinda like an initial on the water and then maybe use the other ones you post as an update or full review of your work. Either way I enjoy what you do and thank you again.
Fantastic videos. Wish I lived close by. I would like your suggestion regarding a battery for my new 55 LB thurst Newport trolling motor. I fish in smooth water with a little current at times. I plan to travel no further that 6-8 miles total and not all of that will need the trolling motor. Would a lifePO4 12V 56Ah be sufficient? Thanks. Jeff
Thanks Jeff. I like to be over prepared whenever possible. I went with a 100AH LiPO with a 45lb thrust bow mount trolling motor. I want to make sure that I will always have reserve power for emergencies. A 56AH may be enough but I would go to a 75AH if possible (I know they are expensive).
Its a year later now.. Just wondering How well it is still holding up. Has the Cable lasted or have you had to replace anything for wear and tear. Love your videos as I have a Outlaw which I have been modding out to.
Great Video, thanks for all the tips. Question -- How did you account for the vertical raising or releasing the lock allowing the motor to lie horizontally and how these motions will pull the steering feet to the bow of the kayak?
Thanks. The raising of the motor pulls both pedals a little farther back but there is enough slack in the line for this. Tilting the motor forward causes no issues.
@@Aksmaniyak Thank you for confirming. Using a bit of old school geometry, I calculated I'll need between 3-4 more inches of rope when motor is vertically raised. So, my thought is to install with the motor at its highest point, the line is mostly taunt, and both pedals nearest to the bow. Then when I lower the motor, that should be my normal pedal location to steer from. Being that I'm 5'9 I just want to optimize and mock up the normal pedal placement prior to drilling any holes.
@@vmexplorer I understand your method of pushing both pedals to lift the motor. I use a double pulley system to raise and lower the motor. Whatever method used, a lot of it is just "winging it" until you have the correct cable length. Post your results!
I watch your videos all the time - thank you! How did you take out the locking mechanism on the pedals. I probed around, but did not want to be to forceful (as I can sometimes be) and break it. Thanks in advance
What looks like a clip in front of the pedal might be the lip you are referring to but lifting it doesn’t release it. No worries, cutting the locking mechanism is an option. Thx
Awesome video!!! I just tried to replicate this on my outlaw, I cant figure out how to get the dynemacord through the 1/4 irrigation tubing now that its through the hull. What do you use to get it through the tubing??
Thanks! If it won't thread though on it's own, I use some 20lb fishing line first. I thread the line through the tube and then tie it to the dyneema and pull it through.
Is the steering setup still working good? Going to set up the steering on my outlaw in a similar way. How hard was it to thread the cable through the interior of the kayak?
Do you have an issue with how far the foot steering is from seat? The reach makes it difficult to sit flat on the seat. A few hours on the water fishing and my back starts hurting. I’m 5’10” and was wondering.
Thanks for making these videos. I like how you edit out the parts where you drill through the hull or feed your lines. It would just add unnecessary time to your video. Helpful, concise, and inspiring. Good stuff. And no "sponsors"👍
Thanks John. It's nice to hear from people who appreciate the style of my tutorials.
No nonsense, always helpful tutorials. Super slick, clean install. Looks factory fresh. They make foot pegs where the track is curved so it might fit the hull shape a little better. Thanks for all your excellent videos!
Thanks Adam! I haven't seen the curved tracks but will definitely do a search.
This is such an inspiring job! You explained it so well that I know that I can do it! Your electronics may be another story though...
Thanks! Just keep trying and learning.
@@Aksmaniyak Your pedal steering is great. Would it be possible to add the speed control to, say, the right pedal? Almost like an old-school riding lawnmower? That would make everthing to do with the moter handsfree.
@@Aksmaniyak You wouldn't happen to live in Michigan?
@@edrosenquist6541 Thanks. I suppose that would work but then you would not have a cruise control.
@@edrosenquist6541 No in the south.
Nice job Aksel 👍
The guitar ports are the best 😁
Thanks. So you like my idea...LOL!!!
Love the Whippoorwill in the backround 😊
A lot of nature around here.
Enjoy your videos!!!!
Nice Install. I installed a similar setup on an old NuCanoe that I owned as a backup to an electronic steering setup that I made. I also used the same foot pedal setup as you and they worked very well. I am sure you will like your new setup. Real professional job. You are the man!!!!!
Thanks John! Praise from you is a great compliment! I wish I had your machining skills...I could get in some real trouble. lol
Awesome! I just did this on my new Outlaw before I even got it wet! Those guitar ports are perfect. I did the front a little bit different though, I used the guitar ports there too just under the back of the foot brace. Seems like that is working well so far!
Thanks Darren! I thought about that but felt the exit angle might bind the dyneema cord. The less bends and turns in the tubing gives a smoother control. Let me know how it goes.
@@Aksmaniyak will do! I can send you a picture of you like, just need to know where to send it 😊
@@darrent8863 Thanks. I have a FB page that makes it easier to share info about projects. here is the link. facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461
@@Aksmaniyak I am joining! :)
@@darrent8863 You are approved!
Would you be interested in doing a short video on how you mounted the trolling motor as well?
Sure Matt. I've already done the video and am editing it.
I enjoy your ideas and videos. One bit of constructive criticism though. When you're done with the install of your idea you should show an on the water clip of it in action. Thanks for making these though!
Thanks Lando. I do a shakedown cruise video on all my builds. I just haven't posted it yet. Stay tuned!
@@Aksmaniyak that's good to hear. I've seen a couple. It would be nice to see them in the actual video as well though. Kinda like an initial on the water and then maybe use the other ones you post as an update or full review of your work. Either way I enjoy what you do and thank you again.
Awesome and clean!
Thanks Carlos!
Fantastic videos. Wish I lived close by. I would like your suggestion regarding a battery for my new 55 LB thurst Newport trolling motor. I fish in smooth water with a little current at times. I plan to travel no further that 6-8 miles total and not all of that will need the trolling motor. Would a lifePO4 12V 56Ah be sufficient? Thanks. Jeff
Thanks Jeff. I like to be over prepared whenever possible. I went with a 100AH LiPO with a 45lb thrust bow mount trolling motor. I want to make sure that I will always have reserve power for emergencies. A 56AH may be enough but I would go to a 75AH if possible (I know they are expensive).
Its a year later now.. Just wondering How well it is still holding up. Has the Cable lasted or have you had to replace anything for wear and tear. Love your videos as I have a Outlaw which I have been modding out to.
Thanks Sarge. I don't have it anymore but the dyneema cord has lasted in excess of 2 years without failing. The key is to reduce friction points.
Great Video, thanks for all the tips. Question -- How did you account for the vertical raising or releasing the lock allowing the motor to lie horizontally and how these motions will pull the steering feet to the bow of the kayak?
Thanks. The raising of the motor pulls both pedals a little farther back but there is enough slack in the line for this. Tilting the motor forward causes no issues.
@@Aksmaniyak Thank you for confirming. Using a bit of old school geometry, I calculated I'll need between 3-4 more inches of rope when motor is vertically raised. So, my thought is to install with the motor at its highest point, the line is mostly taunt, and both pedals nearest to the bow. Then when I lower the motor, that should be my normal pedal location to steer from. Being that I'm 5'9 I just want to optimize and mock up the normal pedal placement prior to drilling any holes.
@@vmexplorer I understand your method of pushing both pedals to lift the motor. I use a double pulley system to raise and lower the motor. Whatever method used, a lot of it is just "winging it" until you have the correct cable length. Post your results!
I watch your videos all the time - thank you!
How did you take out the locking mechanism on the pedals. I probed around, but did not want to be to forceful (as I can sometimes be) and break it.
Thanks in advance
Thanks Bob. Just lift the bottom lip up until it pops off.
What looks like a clip in front of the pedal might be the lip you are referring to but lifting it doesn’t release it. No worries, cutting the locking mechanism is an option.
Thx
Awesome video!!! I just tried to replicate this on my outlaw, I cant figure out how to get the dynemacord through the 1/4 irrigation tubing now that its through the hull. What do you use to get it through the tubing??
Thanks! If it won't thread though on it's own, I use some 20lb fishing line first. I thread the line through the tube and then tie it to the dyneema and pull it through.
Спасибо за ваши видео!
Добро пожаловать!
Is the steering setup still working good? Going to set up the steering on my outlaw in a similar way. How hard was it to thread the cable through the interior of the kayak?
It worked fine and it is easy to thread the line thru if you don't have too many curves in the tube. You can always use a fish tape to do it too.
Have you found a smooth electronic method to steer with? Preferably foot controlled.
Thanks
It could be done but wouldn't really be cost effective. It would be less work, and probably money, to upgrade the motor.
Do you have an issue with how far the foot steering is from seat? The reach makes it difficult to sit flat on the seat. A few hours on the water fishing and my back starts hurting. I’m 5’10” and was wondering.
I'm 5'10" also and do not have any issues.