Thank you so very much for your method of getting to the 4 dreaded pan bots. After watching every available video, yours is the only one that details the best way to get to those bolts. Others use wrenches of various types with up to a half hour of 1/4 in knuckle brushing turns. Two other raise the transmission; one loosening both motor mounts, the other also raises the rear drive train.Totally unnecessary as you have shown. Your method is the most efficient method. The squeezing in of wrenches is even less effective if there is any rust. Also running the risk of rounding off or even breaking off the bolt heads. It makes it very difficult to replaced them and evenly tighten or torque with your method. I managed to get my rusted bolts off and even torqued with a small 1/4 in torque wrench. Lots P B applications for a few days before helped, as always for any rust belt repair.
Gentlemen, GREAT video. I'm going to have my mechanic perform this for me. He said there's a type of Highlander in which it would take 8 hours of labor to complete. He hasn't seen my car yet but his description sounded exactly what you performed. I'll talk to him, of course, when I see him next week.
Great job. If you do this drain and fill every 30,000 miles you don’t really need to do the strainer. And it is a strainer not a filter. I changed my pan at 100,000 miles and this strainer was completely like brand new. People get confused like this is some kind of filter like an oil change. It’s not. The key thing you accomplished is cleaning the magnets and the new gasket.
Thank you for the video Few suggestions: Always wear protective gloves when working with any fluids You can use a short 1/4 inch wobble 10 mm socket with extension to remove those difficult bolts But your suggestion to raise up the tranny a bit with the 19mm bolt removal from the tranny mount bushing is a good tip Always measure all the transmission fluid so you know exactly what came out so you can put it back in fresh. Doing a drain and fill you would need 4 quarts, unless you are working on a car that has a tow package, it will take a little bit more. But since you did a full pan drop and filter change it will be a little more than 4 quarts. Never use impact tool while inside the transmission, use appropriate 3/8 ratchet/socket and always use a torque wrench to get the perfect torque to assure accuracy since you are dealing with aluminum. Always replace the drain plugs “crush washer” as it is not design to be reused. Filter bolts should be @ 8 ft/lbs the Pan should be @ 69 in/lbs or 6 ft/lbs and the Drain plug is @ 36 ft/lbs. Some people put a little blue loctite for added security but maybe you don’t need them if you clean the bolts Carburetor cleaner fluid and dry them well. I would also suggest sending a sample of the tranny fluid out to a company called Blackstone Labs to have the tranny fluid analysis to see what came out and how it is doing. Thank you
Ditto the compliment for your great tip for lifting the trans. I was going to post a comment to advise against using any type of power tool on sensitive bolts, such as those holding the filter, but see the warning in this one. Also appreciate your "real world" experience....wrong trans. filter. How many times has this happened to us DIYers? I assume you edited out the obligatory profanities that comes with learning you have to run to the parts store while the car is "torn apart." Thank goodness most PS are now open on weekends. Back in the day, many weren't. thanks again for video....
Those were my thoughts on having to lift motor and transmission to get to those bolts ; although just jacking the transmission would work too , I was just afraid to only jack transmission for fear of breaking bell housing but obviously it doesn't hurt a thing .
Yeah I'll sometimes use the bolts to hold gasket in place , or I'll use grease or glue if the bolt trick doesn't work . Just curious what repair manual says to do .
Probably the best video I've seen on this. I'm curious about how little tran fluid you used. Was that considered a full flush, in which case the manual indicates 9.3 quarts or just a "drain and fill" which normally takes close to 4 quarts without removing the pan and filter? I'm about to do mine and I think I may have bought way too much oil.
Great video and tip about raising the transmission. The one step that wasn't clearly described is you need to loosen that transmission bolt and (missing part) then put the jack under the transmission and jack the transmission up, correct? (The way you described it is very helpful but you skipped the part about jacking up the transmission. )
@@DLMGarage So I've an Acura MDX as well. It doesn't have a pan. Drain plug only. There's no way that I can tell to change the filter on that vehicle. Although given the option I'd replace it and since there is a pan it's always a good idea to replace the gasket. Still for me I think the biggest drawback of all of this is that you never get all of the fluid out. You simply drain what you can then dilute what's left with clean fluid. I've heard some people recommend doing the job up to 3 times in a row. Although I'd think that would be really expensive and a lot of work.
In the south where I live we don't have any corrosion issues so I don't have to worry about it but in northern snowy climates I have had that happen alot. Appreciate the advice
Technically, through the funnel, then the dipstick, to the transmission, until it's fully transmitted through the transmitter during the transmission process. 😐
That fluid was pretty cherry think you could have gone a ways with it.But it is always good to keep on top of it to prolong the life and health of the tranny 💥
yea, it's usually the VVT cams, some times the pins wear out in the cam causing the issue, I have found that low oil can cause that noise. Also using a cheap filter will cause that noise too along with not using the correct oil. I had a noise and when I changed to 0-20 with a oem filter it went away.
some say no and some say yes, if the fluid looks good and the tranny is running fine I change it regardless of mileage, but if the fluid is burnt and their is a shifting issue I leave it alone.
People find a reason to be ungrateful, these are the same kind of people who think of reasons to NOT do things... Thanks for the effort bud, anybody who's even put the effort into popping the hood would know because it's easy to see down in the opening straight back and to the right of the hood latch on "the TRANSMISSION side"... who would have thought they would put it near the TRANSMISSION, perhaps even connecting it to it. What an engineering marvel that something should be connected to what it's named after!
Thank you so very much for your method of getting to the 4 dreaded pan bots. After watching every available video, yours is the only one that details the best way to get to those bolts. Others use wrenches of various types with up to a half hour of 1/4 in knuckle brushing turns. Two other raise the transmission; one loosening both motor mounts, the other also raises the rear drive train.Totally unnecessary as you have shown. Your method is the most efficient method.
The squeezing in of wrenches is even less effective if there is any rust. Also running the risk of rounding off or even breaking off the bolt heads. It makes it very difficult to replaced them and evenly tighten or torque with your method.
I managed to get my rusted bolts off and even torqued with a small 1/4 in torque wrench. Lots P B applications for a few days before helped, as always for any rust belt repair.
I'm glad I do t live I. The rust belt. I have heard of the struggles lol
Gentlemen, GREAT video. I'm going to have my mechanic perform this for me. He said there's a type of Highlander in which it would take 8 hours of labor to complete. He hasn't seen my car yet but his description sounded exactly what you performed. I'll talk to him, of course, when I see him next week.
Great job. If you do this drain and fill every 30,000 miles you don’t really need to do the strainer. And it is a strainer not a filter. I changed my pan at 100,000 miles and this strainer was completely like brand new. People get confused like this is some kind of filter like an oil change. It’s not. The key thing you accomplished is cleaning the magnets and the new gasket.
Still wish they had a fill plug side. Every time I pulled out the dipstick oil everywhere on it, had to wait over night to get a readable reading.
Thank you for the video
Few suggestions:
Always wear protective gloves when working with any fluids
You can use a short 1/4 inch wobble 10 mm socket with extension to remove those difficult bolts
But your suggestion to raise up the tranny a bit with the 19mm bolt removal from the tranny mount bushing is a good tip
Always measure all the transmission fluid so you know exactly what came out so you can put it back in fresh. Doing a drain and fill you would need 4 quarts, unless you are working on a car that has a tow package, it will take a little bit more. But since you did a full pan drop and filter change it will be a little more than 4 quarts.
Never use impact tool while inside the transmission, use appropriate 3/8 ratchet/socket and always use a torque wrench to get the perfect torque to assure accuracy since you are dealing with aluminum.
Always replace the drain plugs “crush washer” as it is not design to be reused.
Filter bolts should be @ 8 ft/lbs the Pan should be @ 69 in/lbs or 6 ft/lbs and the Drain plug is @ 36 ft/lbs. Some people put a little blue loctite for added security but maybe you don’t need them if you clean the bolts Carburetor cleaner fluid and dry them well.
I would also suggest sending a sample of the tranny fluid out to a company called Blackstone Labs to have the tranny fluid analysis to see what came out and how it is doing.
Thank you
Thanks and appreciate the tips!!
Thanks for the tips. Especially in the wobble Rachet and extension.
Ditto the compliment for your great tip for lifting the trans. I was going to post a comment to advise against using any type of power tool on sensitive bolts, such as those holding the filter, but see the warning in this one.
Also appreciate your "real world" experience....wrong trans. filter. How many times has this happened to us DIYers? I assume you edited out the obligatory profanities that comes with learning you have to run to the parts store while the car is "torn apart." Thank goodness most PS are now open on weekends. Back in the day, many weren't. thanks again for video....
thanks for posting this tutorial video...planing to replace my transmission oil this weekend 👍
Those were my thoughts on having to lift motor and transmission to get to those bolts ; although just jacking the transmission would work too , I was just afraid to only jack transmission for fear of breaking bell housing but obviously it doesn't hurt a thing .
Thank you for an amazing video!
Yeah I'll sometimes use the bolts to hold gasket in place , or I'll use grease or glue if the bolt trick doesn't work . Just curious what repair manual says to do .
Thank you so much for uploading this tutorial
Probably the best video I've seen on this. I'm curious about how little tran fluid you used. Was that considered a full flush, in which case the manual indicates 9.3 quarts or just a "drain and fill" which normally takes close to 4 quarts without removing the pan and filter? I'm about to do mine and I think I may have bought way too much oil.
nahh just a drain in full. it will take between 4 and 5 quarts.
Thanks
Great video and tip about raising the transmission. The one step that wasn't clearly described is you need to loosen that transmission bolt and (missing part) then put the jack under the transmission and jack the transmission up, correct? (The way you described it is very helpful but you skipped the part about jacking up the transmission. )
yea loosen the trans mount and it will lift up giving you the clearance.
I thought 2013 Highlanders did not have a dipstick for the automatic transmission. Silly me
Thank you for the great video. Does the 2.7L take the same filter as the 3.5 L? Mine is a 2.7 about to do the tranny fluid change this week.
not sure, I would use rock auto, look up both vehicle's and see if the part numbers are different.
How do we fill if it doesnt have a diptube?
My 01 Corolla didn't have a drain plug. Was very frustrating doing this job.
drain plug is great but I have seen many people just do a drain and fill and ignore the filter which also needs to be changed.
@@DLMGarage So I've an Acura MDX as well. It doesn't have a pan. Drain plug only. There's no way that I can tell to change the filter on that vehicle. Although given the option I'd replace it and since there is a pan it's always a good idea to replace the gasket. Still for me I think the biggest drawback of all of this is that you never get all of the fluid out. You simply drain what you can then dilute what's left with clean fluid. I've heard some people recommend doing the job up to 3 times in a row. Although I'd think that would be really expensive and a lot of work.
Thank you.
great video thanks! Where to find gasket and filter?
rock auto, or napa
@@DLMGarage thanks！
@@DLMGarage Just been to Napa. They don't carry it, but oddly it appears on their website
Do you HAVE to change the filter??? Would it be ok just to change the fluid and thats it? My truck has 90k miles on it
it's a good practice to,
Don't use impact on the plastic cover bolts. They will rust over time and next time they will snap. That is what I just did to my car. :-)
In the south where I live we don't have any corrosion issues so I don't have to worry about it but in northern snowy climates I have had that happen alot. Appreciate the advice
Yeh just need to snug it down. Don't over torque it
Are you refilling through the dipstick tube?
Yes
Yes
Technically, through the funnel, then the dipstick, to the transmission, until it's fully transmitted through the transmitter during the transmission process. 😐
Thank goodness for your support 😮
Wow a look inside that Pan and you can see how much you miss on doing a simple drain and fill
Very true!
do u remember what size of washer you use for drain plug??
I don't, i buy them in a 10pack and it fits pretty much most toyotas.
Looks like you just did the fluid change, looks good.
yea for a high mileage vehicle it was well maintained by the previous owner!
Well the transmission pan gasket was changes as well as the transmission filter.
How much mileage was on this when you changed this fluid?
160,000
That fluid was pretty cherry think you could have gone a ways with it.But it is always good to keep on top of it to prolong the life and health of the tranny 💥
I took out from my 2011 highland a little over 5qt not 3
Can you post a link to the tool to remove the plastic tabs? Thanks for the video
www.amazon.com/ARES-Removal-Removes-Fasteners-Prevents/dp/B072J9XVFX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=24K1FQQYGQ7C5&keywords=push+tab+tool&qid=1652123667&sprefix=push+tab+tool%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-4
@@DLMGarage thank you!
Do you apply seal packing to those bolts?
I don't and it's never leaked.
Grate video but what’s torque specs bro.
65 inch punds
Can you do transfer case as well?
they can be changed, but mine is not 4wd so i don't have it
@@DLMGarage oh okay. What after market transmission filter should I get? Oem is too expensive in my opinion. Wix filter will work?
wix work@@Kaywonlee
Engine has a lifter tick going on. Is that normal for these?
yea, it's usually the VVT cams, some times the pins wear out in the cam causing the issue, I have found that low oil can cause that noise. Also using a cheap filter will cause that noise too along with not using the correct oil. I had a noise and when I changed to 0-20 with a oem filter it went away.
2.7l or 3.5l engine?
3.5
can i change at 146k miles but last owner never changed it
some say no and some say yes,
if the fluid looks good and the tranny is running fine I change it regardless of mileage, but if the fluid is burnt and their is a shifting issue I leave it alone.
Can you give me a link to get the transmission fluid filter
ordered it from rockauto.com, but they sent the wrong one. had to go to my local parts store to match up the right one.
i would have wedge a piece of wood between frame and the trans.!
yeah def would of been safer!!
That wood definitely be ah wedgie 😂🤣😂🤣
It would have been nice to see how to find the dipstick and where to fill the fluid.
the end of the video shows it.
ruclips.net/video/hEevt2gt040/видео.html
People find a reason to be ungrateful, these are the same kind of people who think of reasons to NOT do things... Thanks for the effort bud, anybody who's even put the effort into popping the hood would know because it's easy to see down in the opening straight back and to the right of the hood latch on "the TRANSMISSION side"... who would have thought they would put it near the TRANSMISSION, perhaps even connecting it to it. What an engineering marvel that something should be connected to what it's named after!
what was the mileage?
160k
@@DLMGarage was 160k the first transmission fluid change? That's a bit late, no? How did it run afterwards? Any slippage?
Whats the part #
I don't recall
Atf fluid fresh red still good😂
Is 2wd or 4wd??
2wd
Thanks for answering, at the dealership they tell me that my truck does not have a filter in the transmission, it is a 2008 2wd too
@@ramonarellano5214 def an 08. About to do mine. Good luck !
Not all Toyotas have drain plugs