2010 Toyota Highlander Transmission Fluid & Filter and Transfer Case Fluid
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- Опубликовано: 27 ноя 2024
- Changing the Transmission Fluid & Filter in a 2010 Toyota Highlander with a 3.5L V6, 4WD. Took about 5.7qts of ATF WS. Shows in detail how to remove and re-install the 3 hard to reach transmission pan bolts.
I also changed the Transfer Case Fluid. Took about 0.9qts. of 80W-90.
I followed your video with an attempt to do this myself due to financial reasons. Im sure this would be over 500 bucks at a dealership. In that sense you have really helped out a lot of people and wanted to take the time to personally thank you for making the video. It was clear and easy to understand. Its not easy making a video like this being under a vehicle trying to show what your doing. Thank you very much!
Thank you for the kind words. I enjoy helping people save money and doing video editing, but positive comments are what makes it worth my time.
Thank you for the kind words. It does take a lot of time to film, edit, and upload videos, so it's nice to hear a thank you verses "I would not let this guy work on my ex-wife's car. Thanks again.
@@jimdandy6472 😂😂
Great video, I just finished doing this; took me about 3 hours. For the bolts that were hard to get at, I used a hydraulic jack on the Transmission to raise it up about a half inch away from the car frame. This gave me enough room to get in an offset box wrench to unscrew the bolts. It was still a lot of work, but I was patient and it did not strip any bolt heads. I save about $450.00 doing it myself.
Your solution is really great! Thanks a lot!
I referenced this video again and successfully changed the transfer case oil. It was a bear to remove the plugs. Had to use a crescent wrench on the drain plug, very very carefully. The full plug I was able to remove with the method you mentioned. I used a 24mm socket, with 1/2” to 3/8” reducer to my flex head ratchet. I’m a little worried that I was only able to fill about 0.75qts, probably because I had the front of the highlander on ramps. Vehicle runs really smooth though. Lots of metal shavings found and cleaned off from the drain plug magnet. Glad and did this and thanks for saving me money!
One of the best automotive maintenance/repair videos I’ve ever seen!! And I’ve viewed many. Great job!
Great explanation in this video. I did the same trick when removing and installing the three pan screws above the frame, Doable but not easy...DO NOT CROSS THREAD SCREWS.
Thanks for making this video! I did a drain and fill yesterday at 73k miles. The fluid was pretty dark compared to new. I was having an issue with fluid level readings. Even thought I put in a half QT less than what came out, it’s reading full 🤷♂️. I’ll keep an eye on it. I didn’t have the right size washer to replace the one around the drain bolt so I reused it. After a good tightening to around spec 36 ft/lb it didn’t drip at all. But I would recommend to you DIY ers use a new washer just for price of mind.
Level can vary a bit based on fluid temp and being on a flat or slightly inclined surface. Get the fluid warmed up and the vehicle sitting on a "flat" surface, and trust the dip stick.
Do you have a link for a new crush washer for a 2013 highlander?
Thank you for making this detailed video! These trucks can go to 300- 500K miles as per Scotty Kilmer!
Great video. Probably loosening - but not removing - the driver side motor mount and front motor mount near the radiator will give you the extra inch to have good bolt access. Mount bolts removed and jack it up with the studs coming up but not out of their holes is very easy. Thanks for posting.
This video was very helpful. I referenced it multiple times and was able to successfully change the trans fluid and filter. Thank you so much for your help. You’ve saved me hundreds! After doing this, o think I can tackle the transfer case fluid and rear differential. Great video 👍🏾
Pretty amazing video! Thank you for taking so much time to do that well documented video. That's going to save me hours in work when I go to do this in the next week or so
Thank you Jim for the great video, I needed this help!
I need to change my transmission fluid and filter and transfer case just like in your videos, plus the rear differential fluid as well for my 2009 Highlander Sport
I just recently changed the front Evaporator Core (which was a beast!), and installed new OEM spark plugs, installed three new OEM Toyota Ignition Coils on the back three, as they are more difficult to change than the front and since I had everything off anyway, it just made sense to do it. Had to change front cam cover gasket and spark plug seals as the middle spark plug had oil in it, that was fun. Replaced the serpentine belt and replaced both top and bottom radiator hoses since I needed to change the red/pink coolant and I fully bled the coolant system.
Very good video. Best I have seen on this topic. Thank you for the help. I have a 2013.
VERY GOOD ! ! THANK YOU , I REALLY APPRECIATE THE DETAIL OF TAKING OUT THE HARD TO GET TO AUTO TRANS. PAN BOLTS & THE TOOLS USED ! ! ! AGAIN I APPRECIATE AND THANK YOU AGAIN ! ! ! ! !
Great job! Nice to see you giving love to your wife's 2010. I love my 08 Highlander. Can't beat Toyota!
What is the fluid spec ?
@@DKSE123 ATF W5 synthetic tranny fluid
There is a breather on this case. It is located on the cases cover towards the right side if you are facing the front of the vehicle between engine and transfercase
When re[using crush washer/gaskets I find a little more peace of mind when resurfacing them a bit with some 320 or 400 grit sandpaper. It smoothies out the circular ridges from the previous seal.
Amazing!
Take a bow Sir...take a bow!
-100
Your video helped me change all my fluids THANKYOU
Try 1/4” universal adapter + 10mm shallow socket + 1/4” extension bar (wobble extension bar , if needed)+ 1/4” ratchet should be allowed you to access the difficult bolts from underneath instead of side way. Something like Astro Pneumatic Tool 7412 12-Piece 1/4" Drive Flex Socket Set - 6 Point - Metric might also a good tool to have in this case.
Love the detail info, thank you
Great video Jim. Also watched your other video on the differential oil change. Regarding the hard to reach bolts, in the video link below they loosened the engine mount bolt and jacked the engine up to get about an inch of clearance to get on the bolts. You do have to take the drivers front wheel and wheel trim cover off but seems easier than fighting with the access. I may try that. In that video they also drained fluid a second time to get the rest of the fluid. Don't think that's worth it as trans fluid replacement is not even required so replacing is just for piece of mind even if you only replace 2/3 of the fluid.
ruclips.net/video/hmp67GDPSys/видео.html
Excellent video, thanks for the detailed part on getting the correct wrenches. I just might have my mechanic do it. Lol
How did you refill it? Did you pour all 4.5 quarts down the dipstick tube?
This is my question too
Was that the first time ever that transmission fluid was replaced with that high mileage? Have you had any issues after that, like the shifting of gears on third for example is kicking/bucking?
It was the first time for a transmission fluid drain and fill in this vehicle. No problems before or after.
I do have some concerns with doing a complete flush, but I think the concerns with creating transmission problems from simply changing approx. half the fluid and the filter is over blown. If your bands/clutch plates are so worn that you are relying on their particles floating around in the old fluid, your transmission is basically shot already.
ALL transmission bolts are easily removed with SK box wrench 87779. I assume cheaper box wrenches would also work, but that is the one I bought for this purpose.
Thank you for the tip. Will grab one of these.
? How many miles on your transmission fluid at the time of this change? How is transmission running 4 yrs later?
I saw a video of the same procedure on a '07 highlander with the 3.3 L engine. So I am sure it is a little different setup. I saw he used what appeared to be a 1/4" wobble socket with a long (probably 8-10 inch extension to reach those 3 bolts under the support beam. I know you mentioned trying a 1/4 inch wobble socket...but do you think a long extension would work? Thanks for the detailed video... You did a nice effective job, you are much more patient than I am :-)
Fireman, it's not a straight shot, so the wobble socket is what worked for me.
Perfect, appreciate the guidance
When you did the transfer case, did you jack up the rear of the car?
Thanks for the video. I viewed it a few different times haha. Just got done but I'm having a hard time getting a reading on the trans dip stick(Car is on and trans fluid is hard). You put in 6qts of fluid back in but only measured the old fluid to be about 5qts?
Trust the dip stick. Keep wiping it off and retying several times.
Hey Jim! It's my understanding that the 2010 RX350 is a nearly identical process, as it doesn't have a dipstick and has what is considered "lifetime" fluid. This is a correct assumption right?
There is a RUclips Video for a "2010 Lexus RX 350 filling up the transmission fluid with no dipstick". It's not very detailed, but they do show how to access the plug in the side of the transmission, so you fill until it starts running out this hole.
As far as "lifetime" fluid, I would refer to the owners manual, but typically if you don't tow or drive a lot in the mountains most new cars can go a "lifetime" without a transmission fluid change, although I would recommend at least one at around 100k and then hope for the best. At least a drain and fill if there is a drain plug on the transmission pan.
Thank You for a very well done Video. Do recommend using Blue Thread sealer back on the bolts when you resemble?
Blue thread sealer "loctite" is a good idea for transmission pan bolts. If your pan gasket is a '"cheap" type say cork or rubber without metal inserts around the bolt holes it is more important as the torque is very low and the gasket shrinks/expands. If you have a high quality pan gasket with metal inserts around the bolt holes it is not as important to use blue thread sealer as these bolts can be torqued a bit tighter and gasket shrinking/expanding has no impact on their tightness.
Long story short, use a small dab of blue thread sealer on the transmission pan bolts.
@@jimdandy6472 what are the torque specs on the pan bolts?
@@user_namehere I don't like to give out torque specs as you should look them up or follow the recommendations that come with the gasket.
The answer will be around 8 ft-lbs/96 in-lbs. A 1/4" drive screw driver handle tool with a good snug tightening will get you pretty close. It's a good idea to use a drop of "blue" loc-tight to make sure they don't come loose.
@@jimdandy6472 thanks! I did this job on the 1st and tightened then to around 8lb ft with loktite except the ones I couldn't get to with a torque wrench, just snugged those up. Took me about 5hrs total (including test drive and adjusting fluid lvl). I've done this on other vehicles but your vid helped be prepare with everything I needed and what to expect in detail. Thanks a lot!
The transfer case bolt calls for 85W90, GL5. You put in 80W90. Isn’t that too thin at low temperatures?
It will work just fine. If it really bugs you get the Toyota fluid. This is a complex subject with many opinions.
Thanks for the video . I did the drain and fill only I'm still trying to get my head around the dipstick level. I started putting back 3.7 q as per the manual however the level was too low I started adding 100 ml each time and check the level when the car is operating and idling till I hit 4. 6 q the level is up to about the hot notch. What would you think the amount of drain and fill without the filter thanks
Mine has the towing package with extra transmission cooler, and I also dropped the pan and changed the filter, so likely 1/2 to 3/4 quart more than you had, so mine took a bit over 5 quarts.
4.6 quarts for your drain and fill sounds reasonable. Unless you have any reason to doubt the dipstick reading, it's always the best indicator of the proper fill!
Hi, I very much enjoyed the video and conversation. I have a 08 Highlander without towing package and I put nearly 5 qts. Though manufacturer says to do 3.7 ( maybe without dropping pan and changing filter)
The 4 cylinder one does not have dipstick
Are Beck/Arnley filters good quality or any other brand you recommend? Here in Australia Toyota OEM filters are $140(120 USD).
yes excellent quality in fact the numbers on my toyota OEM filter same on the beck filter
@@davidstobbe1387 Thanks. Ended up ordering OE from Partsouq which was nearly 1/3 of the price from local dealers.
hey Jim great job i purchased a 2010 highlander with 14500 miles, not sure if it was done at 80,000 what was your milage when you did this
did you change it.. i just bought one with 150 k and im a little scared to change the fluid without knowing if it has been done
I have a 2009 Toyota Highlander. It is not a 4wd. Does it still have a transfer case??
If it's not 4wd, then it is only front wheel drive (2wd) and you would not have a transfer case, drive shaft (Toyota calls it a propeller shaft), or rear differential.
@@jimdandy6472 thank you for the reply and answer.
What are torque specs for the transmission pan bolts?
The only thing I would say is I've seen videos saying that you have to do this all at a specific temperature. But I have no idea how critical that is. I think that tube you're talking about is an overfill.
Yes, the owners manual probably says the vehicle should be at operating temperature, on level ground and running at idle, but you don't have to get too carried away. A reasonably flat driveway or street is fine. Many dip sticks have a COLD and HOT line and anywhere in between those or at the top of the HOT range is going to be fine. This vehicle has a dip stick and dip stick tube where you check and add fluid. I don't know on any overfill tubes.
Transmission fluid expands when heated. You check for proper level when it's at operating temp to ensure its the correct level in operating conditions. If you set the level when cold, you'll be underfilled and that could cause damage, at the very least it won't run smoothly.
Good
Do you check fluid level of trans while the car is running?
Yes. In Park, Engine running, on level/flat surface, with the fluid warmed up (so after it's been driven for a while or been running for 5+ minutes). There is probably a line on the dip stick for Cold and Hot.
What size of a hex bit socket is needed to remove the drain plug bolt?
10 mm
My toyota highlander 2006 (3mzfe) calls for Toyota T-IV Transmission fluid. Please use oem fluid if your not doing a flush. T-IV is thicker than ATF-WS that many are using so be careful
Same fluid for 08 ?
@@DKSE123 for all first gen which go from 2000- 2008
Thanks Tom Hanks I will follow suit 😉
Is the fwd and awd pan different?
👍👍👍👍👍
Good video
Where do I find the dip stick on these? Some reason I can't find it
At 20:15 in this video you can see an Orange funnel sticking in the dip stick tube. This dip stick doesn't just pull out (like most), there is a little lever you need to move before pulling up.
@@jimdandy6472 I don't think I have one..is this hybrid?..I am looking at that location right now and I c nothing..took picture but RUclips won't allow me to upload pictures.. there is nothing next to to the manifold and intake air vent
@@lopapao Try googling location of transmission dipstick for your specific vehicle. You may find that it does not have a dip stick. Many newer cars are coming out with basically "sealed" transmissions.
Wait , the books say i need 9.5 quarts of trans fluid .
Good info!
🤘🤘🤘 ta toyota jest twoja, czy tylko naprawiasz komuś???
Blue is medium strength. If they wanted to be pricks then they could of used Red. I heard red is real hard to loosen.
Heat works well for the red loctite and also for stubborn rusted bolts and nuts.
The owners manual and Toyota tell me that it's 9.5 Quarts. Where's the rest?
In the torque converter, transmission cooler coil (behind/in the radiator), supplemental transmission cooler coil (if you have the "towing package"), and some in the lines filter and internals of the transmission. The amount that will drain out the pan is much less than the total amount in the entire system. Trust the dipstick.
@@jimdandy6472 So how can I change all the transmission oil without removing the oil pan?
In the torque converter
Why did you change the filter? Doesn't the actual service manual just call for a flush and fluid change?
Yes, the Toyota manual does not ever mention changing the filter. It also does not say "flush". Most car transmissions now days either say no service required or just recommend draining the pan and replacing that much fluid with new (drain and fill). That's fine and probably good enough, but I like to drop the pan, clean the magnets, and install a new filter at least one time, at somewhere around 70,000-100,000 miles. It's just my thing.
There are a lot of cars that don't have a drain plug, so to drain the fluid you need to drop the pan, thus you are most of the way to a filter change with them. Some places suck the fluid out, but most DIY'ers don't have that option.
There are endless battles out there about flushing transmissions, so I won't discuss that. With the drain and fill, or drain and fill with filter change you only change part of the fluid (~1/3). Doing them say every 35k miles slowly flushes things out and is basically what Honda recommends. Drain and Fills with a drain plug are easy and a great item for dealerships and quick change places to push (somehow to them "your fluid always looks dark and smells slightly burnt"). Under most normal driving conditions transmission fluid can easily go 100,000k miles +, but hopefully changing it helps make sure you never have a transmission failure.
Well , If Fluid Doesn't Last Forever Then Why Would The Filter ?
That fluid work in highlander 2008 front transmission ?
I assume you mean the front transfer case, which would use Hypoid gear oil API GL-5, SAE 80W-90 conventional, or 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil.
I have a video on that: ruclips.net/video/2n6sZLIPER0/видео.html
Start watching at about 21 minutes in.
Go to www.toyota.com/owners/resources/warranty-owners-manuals/highlander/2008 and download the O&M manual.
The extra tube is because they decided you don't need to change the "lifetime" fluid...what a crock
Factory Spec is 3.7 quarts. Better double check your atf level. You most likely overfilled it.
I believe that's what's in the pan- so if you just drain the pan, that's what you'd get.