Hi, what also works great and does not smell as nasty as acetone is lighter fluid. Softens the glue ring really nicely up. After 30 minutes of having it face down in lighter fluid the insert comes right off.
Hi Thanks for sharing this. I did a similar exercise a year ago removing the cyclops of my Squale 20 Atmos 1521. Just used a typical smallish kitchen knife and a non-butane lighter. The project was a success with no damage whatsoever with the watch but it took a bit of time to pop the cyclops part by part. I wish I knew about the acetone usage back then. It may have made the job a bit easier. I may have even popped the cyclops as a whole. Cheers!
@@WatchComplications I definitely agree. I taped the potential scratch areas to death :) to avoid scratches. The repeated heat and nudge/scrape approach worked pretty well. Really love the vid quality of your reviews. I likewise admire and salute how your channel and journey had grown and transformed! cheers!
nice watch, especially agree with the modifications you have done the second hand just lights up the dial but is subtle enough to disappear I might have to make one :)
@Watch Complications, have you ever tried removing the bezel spring wire and tightening the angles to improve the bezel action, or reduce the back play? Pagani Design seem to have gradually improved the bezel action on their PD-1661; but some still have back play. Apparently this can be reduced by tightening the spring wires angles. The bezel uses a pin under it, rather than a ball bearing to make the clicks. The tension of wire holds the bezel on to the case, and also provides friction when turning it. It's a shame Pagani Design don't just make the spring wire angles tighter in the factory for tighter bezel action with less back play. Regards.
I have not tried that yet, but thought about it. Mine doesn't have a crazy amount of play so I'm ok with it at the moment. I also didn't want to go through removing the bezel spring and the whole bezel since this one was steel, and just went straight for the acetone. I did look at the spring some with the insert removed and I believe this bezel would be quite a chore to remove. Would need a pretty good tool to do it. I have several types but most aren't going to work. I have one that will work, I think. Have you removed the bezel on one of these?
@@WatchComplications The bezel simply lifts off once the spring is removed. It doesn't require prising from a tool (the wire spring holds the bezel to the case). I have a PD-1661 Cermit incoming that I will be modding to a Milsub homage; so after removing the insert with acetone I will remove the wire and tighten it to reduce the back play. Vostok Amphibia's use a similar octagonal stainless steel wire to hold on their bi-directional friction bezels. Tightening the angles makes the bezel tighter to turn, opening the angles makes it looser. Some brands use a ball bearing for the clicks, but Pagani Design use a pin under the bezel. Often collector use a caseback knife and dent the bezel or case trying to prise them off. Personally I prefer to use the tool below (after putting tape on the case to protect it). I hope this helps. Regards. www.amazon.co.uk/SNOWINSPRING-Baffle-Removal-Workbench-Opening/dp/B07RKTJJG3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=watch+bezel+tool&qid=1607617890&sr=8-5
Ah yeah, I have that same tool and it was the one I was speaking about to perhaps use to remove the whole bezel. And yeah, I've seen plenty of the videos showing knives and such, but usually not a smart approach. I'm much more familiar with the ball bearing setup. I suppose the way to remove the spring is remove the insert and then work at it from the inside? Just don't use acetone if the bezel is ceramic or aluminum ;)
Many thanks! I successfully removed the cyclops from my PD Sub (was not put on straight) and I think it looks better without as well! I've also got the PD 1651 coming in, so by now owning a torch and aceton, I think I'm well prepared.
Thanks for the helpful vid! I have a Parnis GMT Sub homage--nice watch, except I absolutely hate the cyclops! I'm sure it will get much more wear once that cyclops is gone!
Thanks Brien. Not sure how RUclips knew that I needed to see this video. My King Turtle is arriving tomorrow and I would like to remove the cyclops. I don’t however have the small torch for the job. Mine puts out a larger flame. May have to get that. I do have several butane cigar torches. Maybe one of those will work? Thanks for the demo.
I got the green bezel pagani, and the cyclops was glued on too far outward and crystal was installed a bit clockwise so the cyclops was showing the lower right corner... after seeing your vid, I got my torch out, toasted the lume pip brown, and I was like F---- then I kept going and the crystal popped off, SO I was like F this... just positioned the crystal more counter clockwise, and pressed it in with my thumb. using a razor I cut off the burnt layer of the pip, and I am now satisfied that at least the cyclops is now level and I see the right side of the date instead of just the corner.
hey there, yeah you gotta stay on point with a torch, so you don’t affect other things. It sounds like you got it too hot, because the crystal popping out is usually what happens when overheated. Sometimes the cyclops will also pop off at that point. Basically you want to get it just hot enough and then try something non-abrasive like peg wood or a nylon/plastic tool to tap at the cyclops. Could also use something like a razor blade, just have to be really careful with that. It won’t scratch the crystal, but you could scratch or cut something else.
Hi, What brand of ceramic bezel do you recommend for changing the bezel of my Pagani Design GMT, I don't loke it anymore, want the Pepsi bezel or the black and green one, thank you
agree it’s a tad problematic. this is something can can be automated and dealt with via quality control but if thousands are being made…things sneak by.
Great video Brian. Thanks for sharing this. A couple of questions: 1) what solvent should work for ceramic bezel inserts, and 2) would removing the cyclops with the ceramic bezel insert still attached damage the insert? Thanks!
Don’t use acetone on ceramic or aluminum bezels. This was a steel bezel with no printing so acetone gets the job done in about an hour. What solvent you use depends on the bezel type, printing, etc. Regular old hot water can also work in some cases. Here is a video that shows the same process but with a solvent that is not harmful to the type of bezel on your PD1639. It takes longer to soak, but shouldn’t harm it, it's a golf grip solvent. ruclips.net/video/Y_zDht9pl5U/видео.html
@@WatchComplications I'm trying this now with the golf grip solvent with an Al bezel. The solvent is very expensive (in UK at £25 but worth it if it does the job).
@@WatchComplications Absolutely great, took 6 hours for the insert to start to move and then turn easily before dropping off. I've ordered some GS Hypo cement and will try the technique of adding drops around the bezel so when adding the insert they will run together with less chance of oozing up on the crystal.
Do you know if it's possible to reattach the cyclops with some UV glue? I have a cyclops that's slightly misaligned and it's driving me crazy. I don't want to permanently remove ut just realign it.
@@WatchComplications But would you say it's possible to reattach the same cyclops that was on there? I'm thinking there might be some glue residue on it?
I’m personally ok with plastic movement holders, which is more common on solid case backs. With an exhibition back metal will look better. Techicnally, it should all be so snug there’s no jittering about internally anyway so shock absorption is more pertinent to moving parts on the movement itself (the movement as a whole and the holder + case are not moving/friction parts). Still, some people see it as lower quality...but again that usually comes down to a visual aspect more than anything.
Acetone will remove paint, the time it takes depends on thickness. And acetone has the potential to discolor ceramic, so if you are concerned about that, you could use really hot water for a while, or a less abrasive chemical like rubbing alcohol. Depending on the original adhesive used, results will vary.
I tried heating the cyclops for around 8 seconds with the torch but it won't budge. Not really comfortable heating it up much more since it is a diver and don't want to risk melting the gasket. I can't really just remove the crystal as I don't have the tools to press it back in. Could you use the acetone soak trick for longer to also remove the cyclops?
I will say that this cyclops is one of the tougher ones I’ve encountered. If you heat it up too much the whole crystal might pop off, but the gasket will probably still be ok. With the cyclops warmed up, If you have a razor blade or a sturdy piece of peg wood, you can put it next to the cyclops like you are trying to get under it and give it a few taps. Might get it to pop off. I’ve seen that too. And since it’s sapphire, it shouldn’t scratch.
The key is getting it just warm enough and then tapping at it. Don’t overheat the crystal or the whole thing will pop off and you’ll need a crystal press to put it back.
Well don't overheat it either. If you do the whole crystal will pop and (though the lens will also pop off), then you'd a crystal press to put it back in good. Once it's reasonably warm, have you tried tapping at it with peg wood (or some non-abrasive tool) to knock it off?
it seems that this particular model uses some crazy permanent epoxy. i heated it a ton more than the video has shown yet it didn't budge. glad im not the only one and i don't want to break a beautiful 60€ watch. coming from someone who hasn't such a high budget
@@WatchComplications I meant that the metal case backs made out of 2 pieces, welded. My question was about the case back with crystal, is it one piece with thread?
This was really informative for a beginner but pardon my ignorance dou you know if they use glue to hold the crystal in these watches? If thats the case would the acetone harm the water resistance?
This one uses a thick and tall gasket to hold the crystal, so an hour with acetone was a non-issue in this case. If you are worried about glued crystals or have bezel materials other than steel, then use something like golf grip solvent. That will take longer to loosen, but it's safer in those circumstances. (I mention this in the video description.)
Not 100% sure without trying it. I didn't measure the height of this one when I had it out, might have been a good idea I guess. There's plenty of depth to the bezel, so it's worth a try probably.
what happens if, when you press the bezel down after re-gluing, the glue seeps towards the bezel spring? Why didn't that happen here/is the only way to get around that to remove the bezel?
Don't put too much glue and put most in the corner so there is plenty of edge and if it seeps it tends to out the top. And yeah, you'd have to remove the bezel. But the spring on this rests underneath with quite a bit of space.
Hi, I’m trying to remove the cyclops from my Pagani 1651 using this method, but the jet flame seems to be having no effect whatsoever (other than making the watch really hot!) Any idea why I’m struggling so much?
I will say that this cyclops is one of the tougher ones I’ve encountered. If you heat it up too much the whole crystal might pop off, but the gasket will probably still be ok, you'd just have to use a crystal press to put it back on. With the cyclops warmed up, If you have a razor blade or a sturdy piece of peg wood, you can put it next to the cyclops like you are trying to get under it and give it a few taps. Might get it to pop off. I’ve seen that too. And since it’s sapphire, it shouldn’t scratch. Start with peg wood or something like that.
@@GelzBelz I do no have a video on that at this time. The tension of wire holds the bezel on to the case, and also provides friction when turning it. Tightening the angles makes the bezel tighter to turn, opening the angles makes it looser.
i don’t think the crystal would crack...it might pop out if overheated. you want to warm it up just enough and then use something to tap or scrape it off. how hard that is to do varies.
update. i eventually got it off using a razor blade and a urologists hammer. the cyclops is sapphire too since it shattered to beautifully. the main sapphire and movement remain unharmed. there's no doubt that this is a risky action but it is an option if anyone needs it. cheers
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi, what also works great and does not smell as nasty as acetone is lighter fluid. Softens the glue ring really nicely up. After 30 minutes of having it face down in lighter fluid the insert comes right off.
interesting method also
Hi Thanks for sharing this. I did a similar exercise a year ago removing the cyclops of my Squale 20 Atmos 1521. Just used a typical smallish kitchen knife and a non-butane lighter. The project was a success with no damage whatsoever with the watch but it took a bit of time to pop the cyclops part by part. I wish I knew about the acetone usage back then. It may have made the job a bit easier. I may have even popped the cyclops as a whole. Cheers!
typically I'd recommend staying away from metal, just to prevent accidental scratching and such. nylon tools or wood tools can be other good options.
@@WatchComplications I definitely agree. I taped the potential scratch areas to death :) to avoid scratches. The repeated heat and nudge/scrape approach worked pretty well.
Really love the vid quality of your reviews. I likewise admire and salute how your channel and journey had grown and transformed! cheers!
yup tape helps too. cheers and thanks for watching...plenty more to come :)
Watched you vid, applied the techniques to my watch and hey presto, it works! Thanks for the empowering content.
cool! glad the vids helped some :)
Thank you for the how to video Brian. I think this watch looks much cleaner without the cyclops...I and I really like that second hand 😊👍
Glad you liked it and yeah...looks spot on now!
nice watch, especially agree with the modifications you have done
the second hand just lights up the dial but is subtle enough to disappear
I might have to make one :)
It's a great all around watch. Comfortable, looks ok, low-cost, no worries wear.
Another great video Brian. I am going to enjoy watching many more of your videos. Thank you!
glad you’re enjoying them
Brian, excellent content. I learned something I didn't know you could do...remove a cyclops from crystal. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed, and yup, they're just glued on there.
Good and informative video, thanks Brian. Will try the bezel removal on some tight ones with your method. Good stuff, keep em coming!
Just remember, the approach will vary from watch to watch and between bezel types ;)
@Watch Complications, have you ever tried removing the bezel spring wire and tightening the angles to improve the bezel action, or reduce the back play? Pagani Design seem to have gradually improved the bezel action on their PD-1661; but some still have back play. Apparently this can be reduced by tightening the spring wires angles. The bezel uses a pin under it, rather than a ball bearing to make the clicks. The tension of wire holds the bezel on to the case, and also provides friction when turning it. It's a shame Pagani Design don't just make the spring wire angles tighter in the factory for tighter bezel action with less back play. Regards.
I have not tried that yet, but thought about it. Mine doesn't have a crazy amount of play so I'm ok with it at the moment. I also didn't want to go through removing the bezel spring and the whole bezel since this one was steel, and just went straight for the acetone. I did look at the spring some with the insert removed and I believe this bezel would be quite a chore to remove. Would need a pretty good tool to do it. I have several types but most aren't going to work. I have one that will work, I think. Have you removed the bezel on one of these?
@@WatchComplications The bezel simply lifts off once the spring is removed. It doesn't require prising from a tool (the wire spring holds the bezel to the case). I have a PD-1661 Cermit incoming that I will be modding to a Milsub homage; so after removing the insert with acetone I will remove the wire and tighten it to reduce the back play. Vostok Amphibia's use a similar octagonal stainless steel wire to hold on their bi-directional friction bezels. Tightening the angles makes the bezel tighter to turn, opening the angles makes it looser. Some brands use a ball bearing for the clicks, but Pagani Design use a pin under the bezel. Often collector use a caseback knife and dent the bezel or case trying to prise them off. Personally I prefer to use the tool below (after putting tape on the case to protect it). I hope this helps. Regards.
www.amazon.co.uk/SNOWINSPRING-Baffle-Removal-Workbench-Opening/dp/B07RKTJJG3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=watch+bezel+tool&qid=1607617890&sr=8-5
Ah yeah, I have that same tool and it was the one I was speaking about to perhaps use to remove the whole bezel. And yeah, I've seen plenty of the videos showing knives and such, but usually not a smart approach.
I'm much more familiar with the ball bearing setup. I suppose the way to remove the spring is remove the insert and then work at it from the inside?
Just don't use acetone if the bezel is ceramic or aluminum ;)
Many thanks! I successfully removed the cyclops from my PD Sub (was not put on straight) and I think it looks better without as well! I've also got the PD 1651 coming in, so by now owning a torch and aceton, I think I'm well prepared.
cool! yup looks much better without.
@@WatchComplications Received mine (same color as yours) and it truely is a stunning looking watch...looks better than any Sub imo.
can you please elaborate? it was steaming hot yet the cyclops didn't budge at all. thanks
@@Dionysor Did you use a torch? only a blue flame works.
Thanks for the helpful vid! I have a Parnis GMT Sub homage--nice watch, except I absolutely hate the cyclops! I'm sure it will get much more wear once that cyclops is gone!
just be careful and don’t overheat :)
Thanks Brien. Not sure how RUclips knew that I needed to see this video. My King Turtle is arriving tomorrow and I would like to remove the cyclops. I don’t however have the small torch for the job. Mine puts out a larger flame. May have to get that. I do have several butane cigar torches. Maybe one of those will work? Thanks for the demo.
yeah, you have to go slow and steady with the right torch or you could...torch something. hope it went/goes ok...let me know!
Great to see someone else who dislikes the cyclops!
I'm not sure dislike is even a strong enough term haha ;)
That's a shame I really like the Cyclops.
Thanks for sharing 😀.
glad you liked it!
I got the green bezel pagani, and the cyclops was glued on too far outward and crystal was installed a bit clockwise so the cyclops was showing the lower right corner... after seeing your vid, I got my torch out, toasted the lume pip brown, and I was like F---- then I kept going and the crystal popped off, SO I was like F this... just positioned the crystal more counter clockwise, and pressed it in with my thumb. using a razor I cut off the burnt layer of the pip, and I am now satisfied that at least the cyclops is now level and I see the right side of the date instead of just the corner.
hey there, yeah you gotta stay on point with a torch, so you don’t affect other things. It sounds like you got it too hot, because the crystal popping out is usually what happens when overheated. Sometimes the cyclops will also pop off at that point. Basically you want to get it just hot enough and then try something non-abrasive like peg wood or a nylon/plastic tool to tap at the cyclops. Could also use something like a razor blade, just have to be really careful with that. It won’t scratch the crystal, but you could scratch or cut something else.
Hi, What brand of ceramic bezel do you recommend for changing the bezel of my Pagani Design GMT, I don't loke it anymore, want the Pepsi bezel or the black and green one, thank you
Some great info here, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
These are pretty nice watches. It's odd they can't put the bezel on straight tho, of all things.
agree it’s a tad problematic. this is something can can be automated and dealt with via quality control but if thousands are being made…things sneak by.
Great video Brian. Thanks for sharing this. A couple of questions: 1) what solvent should work for ceramic bezel inserts, and 2) would removing the cyclops with the ceramic bezel insert still attached damage the insert? Thanks!
Don’t use acetone on ceramic or aluminum bezels. This was a steel bezel with no printing so acetone gets the job done in about an hour. What solvent you use depends on the bezel type, printing, etc. Regular old hot water can also work in some cases. Here is a video that shows the same process but with a solvent that is not harmful to the type of bezel on your PD1639. It takes longer to soak, but shouldn’t harm it, it's a golf grip solvent. ruclips.net/video/Y_zDht9pl5U/видео.html
@@WatchComplications I'm trying this now with the golf grip solvent with an Al bezel. The solvent is very expensive (in UK at £25 but worth it if it does the job).
@@andysmith7903 let me know how it goes
@@WatchComplications Absolutely great, took 6 hours for the insert to start to move and then turn easily before dropping off. I've ordered some GS Hypo cement and will try the technique of adding drops around the bezel so when adding the insert they will run together with less chance of oozing up on the crystal.
awesome. either dots around or a thin line around should work. if any excess squeezes out, just leave it. It’ll dry and you can just brush it away.
Does the heat used to remove the cyclops effect any Anti-Reflective coating/film on the inside of the crystal? Thank you!
These are low cost Chinese specials. There is no AR coating.
Do you know if it's possible to reattach the cyclops with some UV glue? I have a cyclops that's slightly misaligned and it's driving me crazy. I don't want to permanently remove ut just realign it.
That's typically what's used for cyclops lenses.
@@WatchComplications But would you say it's possible to reattach the same cyclops that was on there? I'm thinking there might be some glue residue on it?
that might be on a case by case basis. even if there is some, it’s clear
Hi Brian. Great video. Is nail polish remover safe to use on ceramic and resin bezels also?
no i wouldn’t. i think golf grip solvent would work ok in that situation. takes longer but not as abrasive
Do you have the blue plastic protection sticker on the crown deliberately ?
I tend to leave them on for a bit after buying. This was stil relatively new when I modded it.
Most all automatic watches use a plastic movement holder . Ask me i think it helps as a shock absorber
I’m personally ok with plastic movement holders, which is more common on solid case backs. With an exhibition back metal will look better. Techicnally, it should all be so snug there’s no jittering about internally anyway so shock absorption is more pertinent to moving parts on the movement itself (the movement as a whole and the holder + case are not moving/friction parts). Still, some people see it as lower quality...but again that usually comes down to a visual aspect more than anything.
Will the acetone damage ceramic bezels or the paint on the numbers on it?
Acetone will remove paint, the time it takes depends on thickness. And acetone has the potential to discolor ceramic, so if you are concerned about that, you could use really hot water for a while, or a less abrasive chemical like rubbing alcohol. Depending on the original adhesive used, results will vary.
We're can I buy the glue that you used to put the bezel back, thank you 😊
I get it on Amazon
Great beard! What length? Picking up a pd1651 with the 11.11 sale!
lol not long, usually around a 1/2 inch or less. enjoy the 1651, it's a fun watch to have around.
Hi Brian! Please indicate to me the correct type of adhesive to fix the cyclops on a sappire lens
Since I'm not a cyclops person, I've not reattached any, but I believe UV glue is usually used, and you'd need a lamp to help cure it.
@@WatchComplications thank you very much
I tried heating the cyclops for around 8 seconds with the torch but it won't budge. Not really comfortable heating it up much more since it is a diver and don't want to risk melting the gasket. I can't really just remove the crystal as I don't have the tools to press it back in. Could you use the acetone soak trick for longer to also remove the cyclops?
I will say that this cyclops is one of the tougher ones I’ve encountered. If you heat it up too much the whole crystal might pop off, but the gasket will probably still be ok. With the cyclops warmed up, If you have a razor blade or a sturdy piece of peg wood, you can put it next to the cyclops like you are trying to get under it and give it a few taps. Might get it to pop off. I’ve seen that too. And since it’s sapphire, it shouldn’t scratch.
Thanks for this I just got a PD- 1651 and that cyclops has got to go. Now i know how!
The key is getting it just warm enough and then tapping at it. Don’t overheat the crystal or the whole thing will pop off and you’ll need a crystal press to put it back.
Trying to get this cyclops off PD-1651 torched the hell out of it....will not budge ...any ideals?
Well don't overheat it either. If you do the whole crystal will pop and (though the lens will also pop off), then you'd a crystal press to put it back in good. Once it's reasonably warm, have you tried tapping at it with peg wood (or some non-abrasive tool) to knock it off?
@@WatchComplications I gave up, I do not have a press. I heated it way more than you did yours.Thanks for the reply.
it seems that this particular model uses some crazy permanent epoxy. i heated it a ton more than the video has shown yet it didn't budge. glad im not the only one and i don't want to break a beautiful 60€ watch. coming from someone who hasn't such a high budget
Hi. Is the back cover made as one piece with threads, or are the threads welded to the cover, like in fullmetal covers?
It's a screwdown case back, that is fairly typical of watch cases, if that's what you're asking.
@@WatchComplications I meant that the metal case backs made out of 2 pieces, welded. My question was about the case back with crystal, is it one piece with thread?
@@neverstov I believe it's one piece (with the crystal pressed into place)
@@WatchComplications you are my hero! Thank you very much) 😊
This was really informative for a beginner but pardon my ignorance dou you know if they use glue to hold the crystal in these watches? If thats the case would the acetone harm the water resistance?
This one uses a thick and tall gasket to hold the crystal, so an hour with acetone was a non-issue in this case. If you are worried about glued crystals or have bezel materials other than steel, then use something like golf grip solvent. That will take longer to loosen, but it's safer in those circumstances. (I mention this in the video description.)
@@WatchComplications oh i see, thank you very much
Can the bezel insert on this model of pagani be replaced with a standard ceramic submariner bezel or is it a bit thicker?
Not 100% sure without trying it. I didn't measure the height of this one when I had it out, might have been a good idea I guess. There's plenty of depth to the bezel, so it's worth a try probably.
Where did you get the second hand?
eBay. search for blue second hand nh35 and should see some.
Bought it from a second hand shop.
what happens if, when you press the bezel down after re-gluing, the glue seeps towards the bezel spring? Why didn't that happen here/is the only way to get around that to remove the bezel?
Don't put too much glue and put most in the corner so there is plenty of edge and if it seeps it tends to out the top. And yeah, you'd have to remove the bezel. But the spring on this rests underneath with quite a bit of space.
Hi, I’m trying to remove the cyclops from my Pagani 1651 using this method, but the jet flame seems to be having no effect whatsoever (other than making the watch really hot!) Any idea why I’m struggling so much?
I will say that this cyclops is one of the tougher ones I’ve encountered. If you heat it up too much the whole crystal might pop off, but the gasket will probably still be ok, you'd just have to use a crystal press to put it back on. With the cyclops warmed up, If you have a razor blade or a sturdy piece of peg wood, you can put it next to the cyclops like you are trying to get under it and give it a few taps. Might get it to pop off. I’ve seen that too. And since it’s sapphire, it shouldn’t scratch. Start with peg wood or something like that.
Do you place the insert on the click or the backlash in the bezel is removed?
somewhere between the two where it seems to rest naturally. You can also tighten the springs up on these so there's less give.
@@WatchComplications do you have a video showing how to tighten the springs?
@@GelzBelz I do no have a video on that at this time. The tension of wire holds the bezel on to the case, and also provides friction when turning it. Tightening the angles makes the bezel tighter to turn, opening the angles makes it looser.
Does a simple lighter work for removing the cyclops?
maybe. any source of heat can generally work, just have to control it and not get it too hot.
Avez-vous un lien pour acheté le vernis merci
are you talking about the glue (I don't use any varnish in the video)? The adhesive is called GS-hypo cement.
@@WatchComplications Ok thanks
Send it to Portugal, please!
eh? my fixed up Pagani?
@@WatchComplications that one like the Tag Heuer. It's beautiful! 😁
ah haha. yeah that was a giveaway several months ago :)
@@WatchComplications thank you for the answers. Nice work making watch mods!
Bezel insert made out of steel, is it?
yes
Great modes
Thanks! Much more my style now.
Interesting video. Feel free to comment on my videos to help promote your channel. Wear your pieces in good health. Regards.
Thanks. I'll keep an eye out for reviews. How about that Vario Trench! :)
@@WatchComplications The 1918 Trench watch is a lovely piece. Wear your pieces in good health. Regards.
heating the cyclop directly when the watch glass is attached to the watch is risky, it might damage the dial or the glass seal if not careful.
to be fair, doing anything with watch parts is risky. if done carefully and slowly as I show in the video, it can produce good results.
Lol, I also despise the cyclops, if i need a magnifier to read the date, then why dont i need one to read the time. Ridiculous
i tried this with a sub homage. no dice. id rather not crack the crystal or worse. thanks anyways
i don’t think the crystal would crack...it might pop out if overheated. you want to warm it up just enough and then use something to tap or scrape it off. how hard that is to do varies.
update. i eventually got it off using a razor blade and a urologists hammer. the cyclops is sapphire too since it shattered to beautifully. the main sapphire and movement remain unharmed. there's no doubt that this is a risky action but it is an option if anyone needs it. cheers
cool
When I remove the cyclops with heat, I take out the movement out of the case, just in case you know 🤪🤣😂
Fair. But if it’s getting hot enough to affect the movement, you’ve probably gone too far 😂