Hey man... stoked on your vids, been learning a bunch... bout to start taking cracks at making my own rasp knives at home, I can't seem to find that scribe block you used anywhere, I know you mentioned home depot, but do you have a link by chance? Thank you
Here you go: www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-mortise-gauge-94645.html?campaignid=12169631175&adsetid=114847961017&product=94645&store=66&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-K2MBhC-ARIsAMtLKRsW2hK-X7ixnOBXBJO5XBxUfEYBH5sJaIMZzAXuUpXg-k33fdeUS5gaAgLMEALw_wcB
@@theriversexperience9383 Thanks bud. Appreciate the prompt reply... I am watching your heat treating on farrier rasp vid right now. If you don't mind, can you give me a quick clarification just so I am sure I understand. At the beginning you said all you really need to do with farrier rasps is put them in the over at 400 degrees for 2 hours. But then dive into forging the steel, is that just an extra step to strengthen and de magnatize the steel? Thanks... I just want do this correct the first time.
Typically about 15 hours on a smaller knife, if your not trying to rush it. I've made a knife in 4 hours before. The big thing is drying times for epoxies and stuff.
@@theriversexperience9383 appreciate that. So it's the handle which I guess takes the longest. Wood carving, epoxy drilling, etc. The knife itself I'm guessing will probably take about 4 hours would you say?
Yes and no. When you anneal you only do that once. When you normalize you do that 2 to 3 times. You normally only have to anneal hardened steel but you normalize pretty much everything you make into a knife. Annealing softens the steel but normalizing cycles refine the grain structure.
Just subscribed, and love the work you are doing! The copper knives are awesome also! I have a question about farrier rasps, and what type of steel they are? An old farrier just gave me an old rusty rasp, and I want to make a knife from it, and want to do it right, as far as heat treatment. Thanks!
Thanks for subscribing! A lot of files/rasp are made from some sort of 10xx series steel. Typically people don't anneal and re-heat treat them because they are technically already hardened. I anneal mine because it's easier to drill through them for the pin holes in the tang. Just re-heat treat it like it was 1084 and you should be just fine. Will it be a perfect heat treat? Nope, but you will have decent edge retention.
@@theriversexperience9383 thanks for the info. I've been making a few knives from circular sawmill blades, and have been doing the same annealing process for those. I don't think I'll be forging it much, but wanted to make sure it holds an edge, and isn't brittle.
Excellent video, Thanks for the clear and concise information! I have a question if I may, do you know what temp to go with before the quench? Was it just a little hotter than non magnetic, or is it a specific temp?
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Can't wait to see the finished product. My father in law gave me an old rasp and some day it'll be a knife or two
Answered alot of questions I had in mind asking, thank you again with the vlog style vids, cant wait to see the handle
Thank you for the information! I am learning a lot
You mention about getting the Scotch Brite belts,,,heck, I need the 2x72 1st,,,lol. Enjoyed the video.~
Thank you. So much info
With rasp files i go straight to the tempering, bc them files are already heat treated...
Hey man... stoked on your vids, been learning a bunch... bout to start taking cracks at making my own rasp knives at home, I can't seem to find that scribe block you used anywhere, I know you mentioned home depot, but do you have a link by chance? Thank you
Here you go:
www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-mortise-gauge-94645.html?campaignid=12169631175&adsetid=114847961017&product=94645&store=66&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-K2MBhC-ARIsAMtLKRsW2hK-X7ixnOBXBJO5XBxUfEYBH5sJaIMZzAXuUpXg-k33fdeUS5gaAgLMEALw_wcB
@@theriversexperience9383 Thanks bud. Appreciate the prompt reply... I am watching your heat treating on farrier rasp vid right now. If you don't mind, can you give me a quick clarification just so I am sure I understand. At the beginning you said all you really need to do with farrier rasps is put them in the over at 400 degrees for 2 hours. But then dive into forging the steel, is that just an extra step to strengthen and de magnatize the steel? Thanks... I just want do this correct the first time.
Where can I get a pattern for this knife ? I’m accumulating tools to set up my shop, I’d like to try this one soon.
I haven't really released the pattern for this build.
@@theriversexperience9383im just wanting to do this as an hobbie, I’d be happy to pay for the pattern etc.
@@dennismoore7681 send me an email at theriversexperience@yahoo.com and I'll send you a PDF copy of it.
Is that a 1 gallon paint can? if i was quenching large hunting knives, should i go for an ammo can instead?
Which oven did you use I'm having a hard time finding one that sill go higher than 230°c
Hello. I end up with a bluish purple color when heat treated for 2 hours. I normally do 1hr and 30 minutes. Why is that?
The blade became too hot maybe try hardening it again? And then heat treat it at a slightly lower temperature this time
🙏🇨🇦
How long does it take from start to finish? beautiful knife by the way
Typically about 15 hours on a smaller knife, if your not trying to rush it. I've made a knife in 4 hours before. The big thing is drying times for epoxies and stuff.
@@theriversexperience9383 appreciate that. So it's the handle which I guess takes the longest. Wood carving, epoxy drilling, etc. The knife itself I'm guessing will probably take about 4 hours would you say?
Cool channel. Sub'd.
Thank you!
Awesome video appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge with us 🙏🏻🙏🏻
I picked up a rasp today. They had two on sale, might go get the other one tomorrow. I am definitely enjoying this series.
That knife is awesome! I can't wait to see the finished knife!
Awesome
A faca ficou linda ... Parabéns sou fã do seu canal !!!! Fazenda rio grande / Paraná/ Brasil
Dang I am interested! Great job
Great work and videos. What exactly is normalizing the steel, is it annealing? Thanks
Yes and no. When you anneal you only do that once. When you normalize you do that 2 to 3 times. You normally only have to anneal hardened steel but you normalize pretty much everything you make into a knife. Annealing softens the steel but normalizing cycles refine the grain structure.
Just subscribed, and love the work you are doing! The copper knives are awesome also! I have a question about farrier rasps, and what type of steel they are? An old farrier just gave me an old rusty rasp, and I want to make a knife from it, and want to do it right, as far as heat treatment. Thanks!
Thanks for subscribing! A lot of files/rasp are made from some sort of 10xx series steel. Typically people don't anneal and re-heat treat them because they are technically already hardened. I anneal mine because it's easier to drill through them for the pin holes in the tang. Just re-heat treat it like it was 1084 and you should be just fine. Will it be a perfect heat treat? Nope, but you will have decent edge retention.
@@theriversexperience9383 thanks for the info. I've been making a few knives from circular sawmill blades, and have been doing the same annealing process for those. I don't think I'll be forging it much, but wanted to make sure it holds an edge, and isn't brittle.
Excellent video, Thanks for the clear and concise information! I have a question if I may, do you know what temp to go with before the quench? Was it just a little hotter than non magnetic, or is it a specific temp?
Brilliant, extremely informative . Simply love it.