BEGINNER heat treatment Knife Hardening & Tempering
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2021
- More geeking out on bushcraft knife making with a metallurgist that is Graham from Vlakvark Forge! To end Day 1 of this 2-day bladesmithing course I took at Vlakvark Forge, Graham shows us how to do basic heat treatment of knives! Other than being a bladesmith, Graham was also a metallurgist for many years. In this video, he shares his knowledge (again) with us on metals and how why hardening and tempering is important for knife making!
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Great video guys👍
Graham is the man to go to for HT info ,when I come up against a problem or new steels he will always steer me in the right direction, top Guy!
Regards
Davy
Very knowledgeable and always willing to help out where he can! He is definitely as you say, a top guy! 🥳🎉
Second time watching this I really appreciate this video
Cheers Nicholas! It was a fantastic time to be forging with Graham. Check out his website when you get 5 minutes www.clarkeknives.co.uk
I’m trying to get into bladesmithing right now but I’m not ready to invest into a kiln just yet, what would be the safest way for me to heat treat my blades for now until I build up my confidence to invest in a kiln?
The cheapest way to heat treat your knife would be using a forge, but as you may already be aware, it’s not the best way to get a consistent heat treat out of a gas forge compared to a dedicated equipment like a kiln. We have made a video about heat treatment comparison. Let me know if you want a link to it and I can happily share.
I've never seen tempering done with a torch before, so much quicker than sticking in the oven for an hour or so.
Cheers for the comment Jason! If you think about it, putting a low torch and heating up the blade is the same principle as a conventional way of tempering it!
@@UKBladeshow Out of interest would this form of tempering work with most of the steels or is it suited to just a particular group?
The way you drilled that hole got me nervous rofl
hahaha!
Most enjoyable video as always! I will have to be That Guy though: what's the real world difference between tempering to ~200C for a few seconds and tempering at ~200C for a hour (twice)? Completely understand the torch is much more practical for the time constraints of a two day course but are you losing out relative to the conventional hour-long temper?
Excellent question Rob! I will get back to you once I’ve conveyed your question to Mr Clarke! Thanks for the comment and feedback dude!
Was also wondering about this method. And does it apply to all (common) oil quenching carbon steels like O1 for example? Thanks for the vid btw.
Hi Siep thanks for the comment ! I’ll let you both know soon!
I could bore you for hours on this topic so although I've tried to keep it brief you might want to get a coffee or beer before proceeding.
Plain or very low alloy carbon steels are fully tempered once they reach temperature. Nothing can be gained by holding at temperature for a period of time. More highly alloyed carbon steels and tool steels (inc O1) are a little more sluggish and I wouldn't temper them with a torch. they do need to be tempered in an oven. The industry standard is 1hr/inch once the furnace reaches temp with a minimum of 1hr for sections under 1 inch.
I, as a metallurgist with 50+ years experience in commercial & industrial heat treatment, cannot see why more than this is necessary. It's all a matter of how quickly the alloy atoms can re-arrange themselves within the steel structure during tempering. Carbon atoms are very small and move like Harry Potter's Quidditch Snitch. Others are bigger and slower like a Bludger!!!
Double tempering is only required where the hardening process generates retained austenite in the steel structure. I won't bore you with the technicalities of this but it mainly occurs in high alloy tool steels, high speed steels and heat treatable stainless steels. The first temper destabilises the RA which itself then needs a temper, hence second temper (and some high speed steels need 3 tempers). However, this destabilisation only occurs when tempering above about 450 Celsius. For knifemakers using stainless and wanting to temper around 200 Celsius it's best to modify the hardening cycle to minimise the generation of retained austenite or use low temp cryogenic treatments or a combination of both. I'm not certain that a second temper at 200 Celsius is beneficial but it certainly can't do any harm. When I get stainless springs, for example, sent in for heat treatment (for folding knives) then the first temper is at 500 Celsius, which destabilises the RA and often increases the hardness, then a second temper between 540 & 630 to get the required hardness.
I hope this answers the question but if not let's have it.
@@grahamclarke4470 thank you sir! I, as a new knifemaker, am very curious about all the possibilities and processes (need to buy some books, i know). If i understand it correctly, a one hour temper would be sufficient for O1?
My name is Vince do I get hand o n lessons 😮
Hahahahahaha!