@TheVeteransEdge of course man. Painting rifles is like tattoos. I find them cool, but I can't ever commit doing it 😂. I want to on my 16" build though.
When doing the final stuff such as the mesh details and def the clear, would recommend taking the stencils off before hand. At least the stencils so when you clear you are clearing everything not just that top layer. Good video brother!
@@Pfizerchamp2020he wasn't talking shit at all, just givin a little valid point..... if you want all the paint protected by clear coat all the paint needs to be exposed to it to do so.....
Good stuff, I use that same paint normally and some others that are flat. Ive really gotten to the point I like to use 5 colors for a paint job. Typically fde, dark brown, red (its like a brick brown) sage, and od green. I'll use those colors in conjunction with a sniper veil for some snake skin style patterns. I see what you were doing for contrast with the black, but I dont like to use black at all because it's what we're tryin to get rig of. I'll normally just go a little heavier on a dark brown if I want that effect.
It looked really good. I have simply used natural stuff for my stencils. Like blades of flat grass, reeds, wheat, hay or pine straw, small tree limbs, palm fronds all work great and look very natural. Even adding some shots of white paint, adds detail to the camo patterns. I do suggest trying it all out on a scrap of cardboard or poster board, before applying it to... whatever! You'll see what you love / hate, before Fk'n up your expiensive gun!
Looks awesome, man. I'd personally suggest doing the clear coat at the very end after you've taken your stencils off. Otherwise, you'll have big random shapes of the paint job unprotected. Clear at the very end, brother. Love the content 🫡
Even the flattest clearcoat adds shine. I really like the effect from the mesh bag though. A light "dusting" with FDE or black from about 3 ft after taking the stencils off and before the clearcoat would have softened up the base coat areas. They really stuck out on the finished rifle. I used to use a rough cardboard cutout in the shape of my bow to see how the pattern would turn out before committing to painting on the bow itself.
MTN Spray Paint, used for graff art. Most actual art stores/ hobby stores carry it. You will find all your flavors with those cans compared to walmart/ hardware stores sprays
Looks good bro, You know the biggest difference I've seen when painting rifles I'll take one that I've just finished stand at the corner and let it cure for 2 weeks after that the krylon seems to last for a very long time even without the clear coat
@@rhino67 I’m definitely going to let mine cure for a little longer before I use it, I’m happy with the end result though. Great point! Thanks for stopping by and leaving your feedback.
Try putting it in your attic or in the trunk of a car during the peak of the summer sometime. It's a natural oven and works pretty well improvising to cure spray on finishes. If you have a SUV or a van that would work good too. It easily gets over 130+ F pretty easily in July and August inside of both.
PSA makes good shit. Never apologize for having a stripped PSA lower. It’s literally just a piece of metal. The only important thing one receiver itself in terms of quality is MAYBE the trigger and even then a standard mil spec trigger that the most advanced and experienced military in the world used, is more than perfectly fine. Remember, the standard issue military M4 is litteraly only a 7-$800 per unit cost. They’re litteraly “low end” rifles
citristip at walmart takes the spray paint off anything. just took one of my rifles' back to factory finish after about 22 layers of paint. coated it. waiting 30 mins washed it off in the sink. smells good too
I agree with Alec, only thing I’ve used is citristrip. Works great for aluminum, haven’t tried it on polymer so I can’t recommend that. Smells great, easy to use indoors. I just wipe it on with a paintbrush, wait about 30 minutes, agitate it a little bit with a toothbrush, then wipe off with paper towels and rinse in water
erm.. cool. Shouldn't you clear coat AFTER you take the tape off (except the optics)? Or was that deliberate ? You have tan and brown areas without clear coat sealer
Man I really need to make my own video on this topic because people are always doing just wayyyy too much and over thinking it lol. It’s literally just spray paint…
@@waffle_chuter I personally think everyone has a “RUclipsr” in them. I say you take some time and make a video, share your perspective, and make it happen. I’ll watch and support it! Send me a link on Instagram when you do @theveteransedge
@@TheVeteransEdge I appreciate that! I live in the northeast so it won’t be until it warms back up after winter haha. And after I finish the build I’m working on.
The stripped lower receiver as long as it's Mil-Spec is of no significant importance. Anderson and PSA work well for custom builds. After you start adding Tier 1 quality parts that rollmark means nothing. It's what is inside/on that lower that counts entirely. The hate steams from mechanically challenged individuals that have to "buy" everything from the factory already assembled. Hardily anything you buy is going to have a Geissele or ALG trigger. It likely won't have a Daniel Defense or FNH cold hammer forged barrel or a Centurion Arms, BCM, Daniel Defense, or Midwest Industries handguard either. How many have a Surefire muzzle device from the factory? I think you get my point and meaning behind it. Paying $250 - $500 for a stripped lower is ridiculous and wasted money.
@@TheVeteransEdge You have the talent for it. This rifle looks great and it only keeps gets better the more you practice doing it. I still have some of the U.S. Military Aervoe FM595/AMS595 Spec spray paint in various camo colors. That stuff is getting harder to get and a lot more expensive these days since they quit making it. If you do a rifle in this paint and put it in the trunk of a car or in your attic in the summer to bake on afterwards it's something in between rattle can and Cerakote durable that comes out of a can. I'm lucky I got several cases while it was still readily available. Few people on the net have experience with using it, however those that do the agreed consensus is it's a real bitch to get off if you change your mind. Lol That is assuming if your prep was good and you tossed it into a natural heat source to bake on afterwards. 🙂♠
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
🔥Intro! Cant wait for more great content!
You already know!
Great work!!! Rifle looks night and day better imo. Earned a new sub today.
thanks for stopping by, and for the sub!
Outstanding job thanks for the ride!!!
@@simplekustomsbyeddiepapand1838 thanks for stopping by 😎
Thats pretty nice and its a cool blend of different styles
@@TCraig00 thanks for the feedback dude 😎 and thanks for stopping by!
@TheVeteransEdge of course man. Painting rifles is like tattoos. I find them cool, but I can't ever commit doing it 😂. I want to on my 16" build though.
@@TCraig00 well unlike tattoos, if you don’t like your paint job you can easily redo it, cheers!
Sick rattle can job! 😎😎😎
Thanks dude!
Rattle can the world 🙌🏻🔥
@@publicpersuaders took me a while to come around lol
Looks pretty darn good....
@@paulemery9733 thanks Paul !
When doing the final stuff such as the mesh details and def the clear, would recommend taking the stencils off before hand. At least the stencils so when you clear you are clearing everything not just that top layer. Good video brother!
@@strapped_6159 thanks dude!
Make a video yourself
@@Pfizerchamp2020 im good
@@strapped_6159 So just talk shit? Makes sense
@@Pfizerchamp2020he wasn't talking shit at all, just givin a little valid point..... if you want all the paint protected by clear coat all the paint needs to be exposed to it to do so.....
One of the better paintjobs out there forsure! Solid pattern and color
@@FreeBayArea thanks man 😎🙏
Great work!!! Love the video
@@jimmysalgado5237 thanks Jimmy, appreciate you stopping by
Super dope! Seems like a chill, educational channel, definitely subscribing
@@glizzyglaz1963 bro that means the world to me, honestly. That’s what I’m going for. Thanks for the support
You had me at stand by…🇺🇸🦅👍
@@Rick850angler thanks for stopping by Rick!
Looks sick man!
@@TexasFirearms thanks man!
nice job bro, I would recommend hitting the stenciled smooth areas with a sponge👍🏽
@@brianraymundo4172 I’ll put that feather in my hat 😎
Solid knowledge transfer brother...🇺🇲🇺🇲
@@twinarrowssurvival.2.065 thanks brother 😎
super sick bro! I cant wait to paint mine!
Thanks man, you should tag me on IG when you finish it up!
@@TheVeteransEdge Will do! Ill follow you on IG now!
I really like the final result!
@@M--GT8223 hey thanks for stopping by, and for the feedback 😎
Looks good 👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸
@@lyndonhamby7432 thanks dude 😎 appreciate you stopping by
Good job!
@@pompapompowski9527 thank you!
@TheVeteransEdge good tips from smarter people are always a nice thing to knows👍😇
@ appreciate you stopping by
Nice I’m in copa too lol crazy!
small world!
I lived in Copa for 7 years lol i just moved back to CO 😂 damnit
Good stuff, I use that same paint normally and some others that are flat. Ive really gotten to the point I like to use 5 colors for a paint job. Typically fde, dark brown, red (its like a brick brown) sage, and od green. I'll use those colors in conjunction with a sniper veil for some snake skin style patterns. I see what you were doing for contrast with the black, but I dont like to use black at all because it's what we're tryin to get rig of. I'll normally just go a little heavier on a dark brown if I want that effect.
Heavier on the dark brown is a sold idea. thanks tyler
@TheVeteransEdge no problem brotha, god bless from ole Carolina 🤙
Yes looks good I painted my
@@johnday4883 thank you
Looks good! I'm in Arizona also, I'll be doing mine as well!
@@44prohunter nice! What part of AZ are you in? Tag me in IG when you finish!
I like it.👍
@@VincentRangelJr thanks man, appreciate you stopping by
It looked really good. I have simply used natural stuff for my stencils. Like blades of flat grass, reeds, wheat, hay or pine straw, small tree limbs, palm fronds all work great and look very natural. Even adding some shots of white paint, adds detail to the camo patterns.
I do suggest trying it all out on a scrap of cardboard or poster board, before applying it to... whatever! You'll see what you love / hate, before Fk'n up your expiensive gun!
@@chrissewell1608 luckily it can always be cleaned and redone, thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment, I’ll try this out next time.
Looks good man
@@Justanotherwhiteguy4U thanks dude
Looks awesome, man. I'd personally suggest doing the clear coat at the very end after you've taken your stencils off. Otherwise, you'll have big random shapes of the paint job unprotected. Clear at the very end, brother. Love the content 🫡
@@Nocturnal-nonsense yeah great note, will for sure do that. Thanks for stopping by 😎
Yeahhhh no lol.
Even the flattest clearcoat adds shine. I really like the effect from the mesh bag though. A light "dusting" with FDE or black from about 3 ft after taking the stencils off and before the clearcoat would have softened up the base coat areas. They really stuck out on the finished rifle. I used to use a rough cardboard cutout in the shape of my bow to see how the pattern would turn out before committing to painting on the bow itself.
@@wayneneuhofel6744 Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment!
That's nice
@@Z28Z28SS thank you I
Fire job I don’t have patience enough to do it well
@@Jus10worsT I’m sure you do, where there a will there’s a way.
Now how does the gun feel when done? Tacky or rough? Does it rub off on your hands as it ages?
@@kylecribb5618 good question. It’s smooth and hasn’t been rubbing off.
Nice
@@lennytrillo2300 thanks Lenny 😎
Not bad at all pretty good
@@lemarballardful thanks brother 😎
As a Marine where can I find crayon colors?? Asking for a friend lol Semper Fi bro.
MTN Spray Paint, used for graff art. Most actual art stores/ hobby stores carry it. You will find all your flavors with those cans compared to walmart/ hardware stores sprays
@@terrarecon 🤣 check specialty stores like harbor fright and or ACE 😎
That turned out great for cheap .
I think so too!
thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment dustin!
looks sick, probably shoulve peeled the stencils before the clear coat though.
@@stephenbissell3124 great point, I’ll keep that in mind for the next time 💡
Looks good bro, You know the biggest difference I've seen when painting rifles I'll take one that I've just finished stand at the corner and let it cure for 2 weeks after that the krylon seems to last for a very long time even without the clear coat
@@rhino67 I’m definitely going to let mine cure for a little longer before I use it, I’m happy with the end result though. Great point! Thanks for stopping by and leaving your feedback.
Try putting it in your attic or in the trunk of a car during the peak of the summer sometime. It's a natural oven and works pretty well improvising to cure spray on finishes. If you have a SUV or a van that would work good too. It easily gets over 130+ F pretty easily in July and August inside of both.
@ that’s a fantastic idea, next summer I’ll just it in my garage for a few days, easily 120F in there during the summer.
@@TheVeteransEdge
Improvise, adapt, overcome!!
💪
nice!!!
@@tyemiller6204 thanks for stopping by Tye
PSA makes good shit. Never apologize for having a stripped PSA lower. It’s literally just a piece of metal. The only important thing one receiver itself in terms of quality is MAYBE the trigger and even then a standard mil spec trigger that the most advanced and experienced military in the world used, is more than perfectly fine. Remember, the standard issue military M4 is litteraly only a 7-$800 per unit cost. They’re litteraly “low end” rifles
@@christopherclement2474 true that! I’ve heard a lowers a lower is a lower” and kind of believe it more and more.
It’s awesome! Don’t strip or change the paint!
@@A74568Z thanks! It’s growing on me for sure. Appreciate the feedback.
Ur in Wyatt Earp Country
@@jerryparker5137 indeed I am 😎
What would you recommend for removing said paint?
@@matthewcote151 good question, acetone and a plastic scrub pad will do the job
citristip at walmart takes the spray paint off anything. just took one of my rifles' back to factory finish after about 22 layers of paint. coated it. waiting 30 mins washed it off in the sink. smells good too
I agree with Alec, only thing I’ve used is citristrip. Works great for aluminum, haven’t tried it on polymer so I can’t recommend that. Smells great, easy to use indoors. I just wipe it on with a paintbrush, wait about 30 minutes, agitate it a little bit with a toothbrush, then wipe off with paper towels and rinse in water
@@alec.g2812 good to know!
@@msquared9605 noted!
If you hang the gun it’s a lot easier too. You don’t have to flip it over
@@justa3v619 I’ll try that next time. Thanks for stopping by!
erm.. cool. Shouldn't you clear coat AFTER you take the tape off (except the optics)? Or was that deliberate ? You have tan and brown areas without clear coat sealer
@@crs9796 yeah totally.
Man I really need to make my own video on this topic because people are always doing just wayyyy too much and over thinking it lol. It’s literally just spray paint…
@@waffle_chuter yeah maybe you should!
@ I’m just not really the “RUclips type” ya know. I have a few shorts but not really any full on videos with myself in them lol.
@@waffle_chuter I personally think everyone has a “RUclipsr” in them. I say you take some time and make a video, share your perspective, and make it happen. I’ll watch and support it! Send me a link on Instagram when you do @theveteransedge
What’s stopping you? 😂😂
@@TheVeteransEdge I appreciate that! I live in the northeast so it won’t be until it warms back up after winter haha. And after I finish the build I’m working on.
I like to eat crayon but paints good too 😂😂
@@Jus10worsT the blue ones kind of taste like blueberries 😂
Shouldnt u do a disassembly of ur weapon before u paint
@@jerryparker5137that’s more suited for cerakote applications. I liter cleaned mine and that’s enough for a rattle can job.
Not with spray paint
The stripped lower receiver as long as it's Mil-Spec is of no significant importance. Anderson and PSA work well for custom builds. After you start adding Tier 1 quality parts that rollmark means nothing. It's what is inside/on that lower that counts entirely. The hate steams from mechanically challenged individuals that have to "buy" everything from the factory already assembled. Hardily anything you buy is going to have a Geissele or ALG trigger. It likely won't have a Daniel Defense or FNH cold hammer forged barrel or a Centurion Arms, BCM, Daniel Defense, or Midwest Industries handguard either. How many have a Surefire muzzle device from the factory? I think you get my point and meaning behind it. Paying $250 - $500 for a stripped lower is ridiculous and wasted money.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment John 😎
@@TheVeteransEdge
You're very welcome!!
Rattle can camo jobs are still the best ones! They happen to be the cheapest easiest to redo as well!
@ agreed. I’ll be teaching myself cerakote pretty soon, that will be an upgrade.
@@TheVeteransEdge
You have the talent for it. This rifle looks great and it only keeps gets better the more you practice doing it. I still have some of the U.S. Military Aervoe FM595/AMS595 Spec spray paint in various camo colors. That stuff is getting harder to get and a lot more expensive these days since they quit making it. If you do a rifle in this paint and put it in the trunk of a car or in your attic in the summer to bake on afterwards it's something in between rattle can and Cerakote durable that comes out of a can. I'm lucky I got several cases while it was still readily available. Few people on the net have experience with using it, however those that do the agreed consensus is it's a real bitch to get off if you change your mind. Lol That is assuming if your prep was good and you tossed it into a natural heat source to bake on afterwards. 🙂♠
Agreed. Unless you get a cool looking billet lower, or something ambidetrous there isn't anything special on expiense lowers, but their cool logo!
He has little targets hanging from his ears! 😮
@@chrissewell1608 🤣
Looks good but I would have Cerakoted ur rifle but I'm not you
@@jerryparker5137 that’s next, after the holidays 😎
If it's too pretty, it won't shoot.
@@kennethherrick8436 yeah? Good thing I decided against the pink/ purple combo
If it wont shoot, will it at least moan or uwu??
Asking for a friend
Nice
thanks bro