This is great, I studied boat building many years ago, haven't touched it for a long time. Now I'm starting to think I want to build a boat again but find I can't remember some steps... Your videos are bringing it all back.
@@buildingladygarnet I recently found two antique marine engines for motor launches which I'm working to restore. A one and a two cylinder engine. I've been looking at a boat design from my home area of Western Washington called a Poulsbo boat.
Hello Don, Spiling bottom planks on your back with a jogger stick. What bliss! 🥴 Did you allow the Everflex Contract 115 sealant to harden & then slice off the surplus? As it is oil based & the surface skins over, whilst remaining semi plastic beneath the surface, I suspect that scraping off it wet & cleaning with white spirits could weaken the curing process. I mention this, because between 1975/76, I was a technical sales rep for the industrial & construction adhesives division at Bostik Ltd, now Bostik UK. Perhaps an experiment using clear silicone construction sealant & the 115 to bond small offcuts of larch & immerse them in water to establish longevity? OTOH, if you plan to paint the hull inside & out, the 115 should work well. Very best wishes, Perry
Hello Perry, yes, I allowed it to harden up a bit and then scraped it off. Thanks for the suggestion of clear silicon, I will look into that. The hull will be varnished inside and out.
@@buildingladygarnet Toolstation at Cressex stock Everflex 200 Contractors Silicone Clear 295ml £4-98 Product Code: 13861. It adheres to non-porous surfaces, so after plank steaming, the "glue-lines" would require a couple of coats of thinned varnish first to ensure a positive bond. That would mean those edges have extra protection. However, the overall varnish finish will also protect the 115 from degradation, so "Yer pays yer money, yer tales yer choice". In a hundred years, someone will delight in restoring your dinghy!!!!
Thanks for this Perry. I will have to mull over the options! At college, we used sealant where the garboards were fastened to the hog, but on all the other lands, we only used varnish. So I'm debating what to do with the other planks, to sealant or not to sealant, that is the question! And if sealant, clear silicon or the 105? Decisions, decisions... And thank you for that final comment... it's rather a lovely thought, that someday in the far future (well, I hope it's far in the future!), when I'm gone, someone else might be able to restore and get pleasure out of this dinghy.
This is really interesting to watch and I admire you doing this in cramped conditions and unblessed by the magnificent facilities available to another boat builder we all know, though I don't mean to detract anything from the achievement with Tally Ho . One thing occurs to me. As this is a small boat, wouldn't it be easier to build the hull upside down ? Disclaimer; I know nothing about boat building !
Thanks for your kind words Tom, glad you are enjoying the build. You bring up an interesting point, as there is something of a debate about whether it is easier to build a small boat right-side up or upside down. At the boatbuilding college I went to, all the boats, both clinker and carvel, were built right-side up. John Leather, in his book on clinker boatbuilding, recommends building right-side up, as he claims that it is easier to judge how fair the lines of the planks are right-side up. Also, building upside down means having to turn the boat over to put in the steamed ribs/timbers, and there is a risk to the boat's structure during the turning process. But I am sure there are other boatbuilders who will argue with these points! Ultimately... I've done it right-side up because that's how I was taught. :)
Hi, 1h for 1", you have about 3/8" thickness, means you should steam for max 20 minutes. More and the wood is permanently damaged... Nice undertaking anyway!
An old builder once told me ,”the hull is the easy part.” Good luck
Very true! Thank you.
This is great, I studied boat building many years ago, haven't touched it for a long time. Now I'm starting to think I want to build a boat again but find I can't remember some steps... Your videos are bringing it all back.
Thank you Tony! If you start building again, what sort of boat would you build?
@@buildingladygarnet I recently found two antique marine engines for motor launches which I'm working to restore. A one and a two cylinder engine. I've been looking at a boat design from my home area of Western Washington called a Poulsbo boat.
@@tonymiller8826 Just looked up the Poulsbo boat, they are lovely-looking craft!
Hello Don,
Spiling bottom planks on your back with a jogger stick. What bliss! 🥴 Did you allow the Everflex Contract 115 sealant to harden & then slice off the surplus? As it is oil based & the surface skins over, whilst remaining semi plastic beneath the surface, I suspect that scraping off it wet & cleaning with white spirits could weaken the curing process. I mention this, because between 1975/76, I was a technical sales rep for the industrial & construction adhesives division at Bostik Ltd, now Bostik UK. Perhaps an experiment using clear silicone construction sealant & the 115 to bond small offcuts of larch & immerse them in water to establish longevity? OTOH, if you plan to paint the hull inside & out, the 115 should work well.
Very best wishes,
Perry
Hello Perry, yes, I allowed it to harden up a bit and then scraped it off. Thanks for the suggestion of clear silicon, I will look into that. The hull will be varnished inside and out.
@@buildingladygarnet Toolstation at Cressex stock Everflex 200 Contractors Silicone Clear 295ml £4-98
Product Code: 13861. It adheres to non-porous surfaces, so after plank steaming, the "glue-lines" would require a couple of coats of thinned varnish first to ensure a positive bond. That would mean those edges have extra protection. However, the overall varnish finish will also protect the 115 from degradation, so "Yer pays yer money, yer tales yer choice". In a hundred years, someone will delight in restoring your dinghy!!!!
Thanks for this Perry. I will have to mull over the options! At college, we used sealant where the garboards were fastened to the hog, but on all the other lands, we only used varnish. So I'm debating what to do with the other planks, to sealant or not to sealant, that is the question! And if sealant, clear silicon or the 105? Decisions, decisions... And thank you for that final comment... it's rather a lovely thought, that someday in the far future (well, I hope it's far in the future!), when I'm gone, someone else might be able to restore and get pleasure out of this dinghy.
This is really interesting to watch and I admire you doing this in cramped conditions and unblessed by the magnificent facilities available to another boat builder we all know, though I don't mean
to detract anything from the achievement with Tally Ho . One thing occurs to me. As this is a small boat, wouldn't it be easier to build the hull upside down ? Disclaimer; I know nothing about boat building !
Thanks for your kind words Tom, glad you are enjoying the build. You bring up an interesting point, as there is something of a debate about whether it is easier to build a small boat right-side up or upside down. At the boatbuilding college I went to, all the boats, both clinker and carvel, were built right-side up. John Leather, in his book on clinker boatbuilding, recommends building right-side up, as he claims that it is easier to judge how fair the lines of the planks are right-side up. Also, building upside down means having to turn the boat over to put in the steamed ribs/timbers, and there is a risk to the boat's structure during the turning process. But I am sure there are other boatbuilders who will argue with these points! Ultimately... I've done it right-side up because that's how I was taught. :)
Hi,
1h for 1", you have about 3/8" thickness, means you should steam for max 20 minutes. More and the wood is permanently damaged...
Nice undertaking anyway!
That's a good point, thank you!