Know Your Wiring Harness Loom Types - Sleeving
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2016
- Wanted to do a quick rundown of the 3 different types of "expandable sleeving" or "expandable loom" you may see on engine harnesses. We will do another video for the heat shrink type. As mentioned in this video, here is a full run down:
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Expandable Sleeving, Nylon Sleeving, Expandable Loom...we just call it sleeving. This is probably the most popular want in the import market but there are more incorrect ways to go about it than correct. Expandable sleeving comes in many forms. In its lowest form (stage 1 on video), its non high heat resistant nylon sleeving and its split to make sliding the loom on an “easier” process, which shows poor harness planning as well as a lack of attention to detail. If the harness you’re looking at has this split woven sleeving, its a lower quality item. The split loom is unreliable and non high heat resistant. When it bends it loses its shape and exposes the wire underneath and just plain looks bad.
The loom needs to be solid 100% covering. Even if they get that part right, the solid 100% covering loom comes in non high heat resistant and wire exposing forms. That type is designed for computers or other non high heat / non fluid resistant situations. The loom is composed of woven material (nylon, fiberglass, etc) and if its 1 or 2 strands per weave its going to show wire through it. It would need to be 3 strands or higher to be up to par. The better loom to use (stage 2 on video) to use in automotive applications is a tight weave and high heat resistant design. You can tell which type the wiring harness manufacturer is using by looking at photos on their site close up and/or asking them which sleeving type they use. If for some reason what is pictured isn’t what you receive, then you should contact them rationally so they can fix it.
Chase Bays used the stage 2 type until late 2015, which was a 3 strand high heat loom. Wire could be seen through it 10% of the time and it COULD let some water in if blasted with enough of it. Whats underneath the loom is what keeps it even more safe but we’ll cover that later (adhesive heat shrink). If this sleeving was blasted with a heat gun it would hold for about 5 seconds before it would burn a hole in it.
We switched to the stage 3 type on video when it was made readily available. This type is amazing looking, fully weatherproof, and fireproof sleeving. It can be blasted with a heat gun on max heat for 60+ seconds before changing form in the slightest bit. This is THE best sleeving and we always stride to use the best materials on our products, so it was a quick decision to change over to this type. Check out some close up photos of this stage 3 sleeving on our harnesses here:
flic.kr/s/aHskBue9s6
In all the above loom type situations, each sensor/function end and junction SHOULD be heat shrunk with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing with a zip tie over the multi cable side of the junction. This is to protect it from strain when moving. If non adhesive heat shrink is used, the loom WILL pull out of the sleeving…exposing the wire beneath which will greatly decrease its aesthetics and durability. It will also allow fluids or weather in. Make sure the heat shrink lengths are consistent, our ends are cut perfectly by machine 0.5” to 1” on sensor/function ends, 1” to 1.5” on junctions. Too little or too much is bad for consistency, aesthetics, and durability. Things like this show a lack of attention to detail and are a red flag in a harness.
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(disclaimer: this is one the few times i've been in front of the camera. Sorry for the uh's and um's) 
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I would love to see what happens to the WIRE when placed inside of the loom and then heated.
So why make this and not tell us the what brand or part number chase ?
Even with a hot exhaust, theres usually enough air.flow in an engine bay to keep temps below 500. Most of the braided stuff is resistant to that point. And the split stuff.is usually fine so long as you don't over stuff it.
Agreed.
Awesome video! Great tech info. Keep it up!
Pretty informative. I bought a harness a good while back from you guys and unfortunately the alternator wires made contact with the exhaust manifold and melted the sleeving a bit. Still love that quick disconnect =)
Hey Jomar,
It was probably the old sleeving, not the newer stuff displayed in this video. Glad you like the quick disconnect!
Anyone wondering what the sleeving is, its techflex insultherm cable sleeving, only place I've found it in shorter lengths is cableorganizer.com
Hope that helps!
Is there any places I could possibly buy the stage 3 loom from? Looking to do my own harness. Much appreciated
what size of wire you use for the harness, because I've been looking for some info, and I found that the mil connector use non less that size 22 or 20 for it. Wich type of connector did you use. interesting tutorial.
What's is the operational upper temperature rating of the stage 3 loom? Do you mind revealing your vendor? McMaster has various looms rated at around 255 to 300 F, is this sufficient for engine bay operations?
I'll be looking this up, very interested... where can we get it!
What would you recommend for auto repairs on a harness you don't want to remove?
Hi great video good information can you tell me were I can buy like a kit lot to make my harness like that and what is the name of that materiar thank
do you have any links to where to buy the stage 3 type material? or a brand name?
I needed wire harnessing the Suzuki Gemma bike with sprayer and some electrics above the engine
Very good stuff! Thanks!
I needed a wire harnessing the Suzuki Gemma 250cc with sprayer and some electrics above the engine
I decided to replace the valve cover gaskets on my truck but the plastic wire loom on my fuel injector and ignition harness is crumbling. I'm going to replace the wire loom first so that the pieces don't fall in the engine. The manufacturer used electrical tape to hold the ends but I'm going to use zip ties instead because it'll be faster and easier.
where can I buy a wire harness for my fuel injectors cuz all the wiring is 20 years old and no longer pliable? It's for a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 6cyl 2wd.
where can I buy the stage 3 sleeving?
nice vid bro
they also have aluminum coated plastic loom it can handle higher temps..
What is that boot that you are using on that DTM-06 Housing?
what loom do the dealership cars use on the engine bay harnesses?
do you produce wire harnesses?
cool if i'm running my wiring near 1000 degree temps i'll keep that in mind. otherwise the stage 2 will allow any heat in the wires to dissipate quicker.
Where can I buy stage three ?
Pretty cool videos. But it just breaks my heart when I see you guys do cool things and no one is working in the background. I've been sitting home lifeless and waiting 10 weeks now for a k swap harness. Depression every morning is starting to kick in.
We can't work 24/7. There aren't enough people great at wiring assembly that we can hire to run night shift. We can't even find enough of those people to keep us caught up! This video was filmed after hours obviously. The reason we have such a delay is because we have so many harness orders. We assume thats based on the end result we provide. Quality assembly like you see on our wiring harness takes more time than people know. I am so sorry for the wait time, there isn't much more we can do to automate processes and get these done faster. Compromising quality for faster turn around times is not an option.
If I wasn't still active duty I would come beef up your production line. I'm an aircraft electrician, so we deal with milspec wiring. Also, I grew up not far from Birmingham.
Love that brother... Passion ... You teach it or buy it. Great video very very informative. Im 52 and still haven't gotten rid of the horrible visions I see in my head every time I have to do Elec work...lol Gettin there though. Then the final push to clear the board (Bucket List) after this is Welding. If you don't mind I'd like to offer some advice.... Never... E V E R ... Allow the phrase "That's Good Enough" To be spoken or even joked about at your shop, or in your life for that matter.I'm a Chef and it just roasts my balls to hear it. If you wouldn't eat it, or install it in your car etc... Why bother doing it at all?
Is the 3 one good for under the hood
what about raychem? wouldn't that be top tier?
good video
So even tho the Stage 3 Harness didnt melt like the other 2 did, you can still see smoke coming out of the ends of the sleeve. What is burning, and just because the material itself is flame retardant, does that mean that heat does not travel through the material? Have you tried burning a sleeve with wires inside...aka an actual Harness? I am curious to see how well wires inside of the stage 3 sleeve fare after being exposed to extreme heat/fire!
My thoughts exactly. I have some Techflex insultherm arriving tomorrow, and I'll be heat-testing it with 20 gauge SXL-rated wire.
Lemme know how that works out. Besides Fire/Heat proof insulation, Ive also been looking for some better Weather/Water proof material, because i have an Evo 8, and they have a major flaw in the wire harness that runs from Inside on the drivers side through the firewall & into the wheel well along the inside of the fender to the main breaker box, and what happens is that water runs down the harness into the cabin and then rests at junction box where the harness connectors are and then shorts out everything. I had to cut the wires on both sides of the plug & hard wire 20 wires! Such a PITA! Besides being a bad design, the fender plug needs to be sealed, and the harness needs better insulation.
It's probably the adhesive on the inside that was melting or cooking.
Where is this company based
What's the name of the heat sleeve you use, and where can I buy it
We sell it on our website!
sold Cherokees get hot i need that
@Everyone that asked him. These guys are in the business of making money so you can't expect him to tell you what type of loom he is using by product name BUT you are more than capable of using google or the equivalent search browser and searching on flame resistant expandable loom and just finding one with high chemical resistance and go for the densest loom you can find to get it as waterproof as possible even though none of that will matter since 99% of all of you aren't qualified to make a wire harness and that loom isn't going to stop you from catching your ride on fire. If you are part of the 1% that is qualified to make a wire harness then you shouldn't have needed me to tell you to use google and search it yourself.
If you guys are after the product name: Techflex Insultherm
HardstylePete thanks
Wow! Okay heat resistances has nothing to do with the style of sleeving, it has everything to do with the material. It is not hard to tell how heat resistant a particular cable is unless the manufacturer/seller doesn’t make the specs available, but you just shouldn’t buy sleeving without checking the specs. You don’t have to use zip ties, and indeed that would look pretty amateur, you can use heat shrink instead of zip ties. Not all split sleeving let’s the cables pop out so easily either, because that is a factor of quality and design. I’ve used split sleeving that had a well implemented overlap, and I couldn’t get the cable to pop out when I tried. I still added a little extra heat shrink at 1&2/3, but only because the cable was not going in a static location but rather would be in motion flexing most of time. Don’t choose your cable sleeving based on the style, as has been suggested here. Choose your sleeving based on the requirements of your application and the capabilities of the cable. If you need cut resistance and flexibility, then find sleeving which provides that, if you need aesthetics then pick some sleeving that looks the part. If you need heat resistance than figure out how much heat resistance you need and balance that against price and preference. Oh yeah, if you need sleeving that can be installed without unplugging your cables, then definitely get the split sleeving. There are lots of options and I’m pretty sure there exists some split sleeving that can meet the rest of your requirements (provided your requirements are within reason, because of course faster than light sleeving is highly improbable). There certainly exists split sleeving that is not braided, and while that might seem obvious, it also seems to have escaped the notice of the presenter here.
Yeah, if you ever have to work on it later you will cuss the person that put solid sleeve on a wires. It might look nice but the labor charges for trouble shooting just tripled. I wouldn't even take the job myself if I can't access the wiring.
What song is that playing in the background
Nothing in your engine compartment gets to 1000 degrees. Overkill is just overkill here. Oems still use vinyl tape and mild plastic split loom.
Juan Fernandez your exhaust will reach near that. Think o2 sensor.
Juan.... The only 'Vinyl Tape' OEM uses is the same he does in the video. Vinyl Adhesive Tape is used where Frame/Body Connectors go and also around the Breakouts. It's not overkill Juan, It's called Quality. Also a dam good site to see a kid in his 20's Have the passion for the work he does whether its for his car or.... Your's. Your statement is not without some merit as temps even in a modified street car won't reach much more than 3-400 maybe. But hell, why not have that extra protection when my truck goes up in flames lololol
How do I contact Jimmy bays?
Glowing white turbo manifold?
FACT: no matter which one you use, some dude on the Internet will tell you the shiet they used is better
Dude. You just need a larger diameter wire loom on the split nylon. 🤦🏼♂️
yeah, we don't even do wiring anymore. sold that side of the company in 2017.
yeah i just knew that expandable PET sleeving was useless.
Half of your products are really decent, and the other half I'm afraid to purchase because nobody will vouch for it's build quality or durability.
Thanks! There are tons of reviews on our website from actual customers and you can scroll through our instagram to see more postive feedback. There's easily thousands of reviews out there for us.
That's a mean Murderer's thumb. It's a real thing. Google it.
Refers to types of harness as stuff.. meh
useless - Seriously? Nothing wrong with split-loom. for the prices of quality split loom you are fine! A car's wiring is NEVER going to see the temps a heat gun puts out, unless you are an idiot that runs it right on the header / exhaust pipe!
You are using cheap crap sleeving if you melt it during heat shrink installation.