How to build a floating dock using barrels
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2013
- This video breaks down the construction of a floating dock. It covers the 'how to' component of building a floating wharf, plus it includes dimensions and offers a parts list of all materials that were used during the construction.
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Awesome Job! There's plenty of island nations that could benefit from this technique!
yes I agree, you just need to be careful of the tides with this type of dock, thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks so much for you video. I might try to add a platform to the end for chairs and such. Thanks again.
... yes , I have seen a couple like that, it will be a nice touch. Good luck and thanks for watching
cc
Excellent video, very informative. I will be sure to share my experiences when we build ours.
thank you, def like to see your finished product... thanks for watching and commenting
cc
Air filled 55 gallon barrel is suggested to have a buoyancy of 500 pounds. Not having any barrels on the land touching section, puts all the waterside weight, stresses, and strains from all directions on the first two barrels, upright poles, and hardware, and connecting hinge hardware.
I'd want barrels on the water end of the first section, and possibly the front, but dug in, or repositioned smaller barrels. Barrels 15, 20, 30 gallon, up to 55, or larger cube liquid storage can be had cheap or free with a little looking. Bottom ends of barrels facing inland, to have a rounder edge in the drag it in to land direction. Furthest section out in water, could be made so it can go length wise, or turned or other sections added to make an L, T, U, O shape dock, or even more complex configurations easily.
Wondering how first section is connected to shore, if it is? Are lock bolts on anchor poles tightened, or is it able to float up and down freely? How is this dock, after a year, and did you remove it, and re deploy it?
This is a great basic design, and has potential to be numerous shapes easily. A fraction of the cost of other less versatile commercially made options.
Very helpful and informative. I would like to use this knowledge to build a floating platform across the river which is 100 feet wide and max depth in 25 feet. Hope it works.
Looking good!
Thanks!
The total cost was $1450.00 for the lumber and hardware. This does not include the cost of the barrels. They were given to me so I'm not sure of their value.
thanks for watching
CC
were did you get the poles
this place is beautiful where is it?
Thanks!
... sorry... one of the advantages to a floating dock, very easy to float out and set up and very easy to take in after the Summer. thanks for watching and asking, CC
Do you have to take the dock up before winter or wont the water freeze and push the dock up to the surface?
hey Alex, with a floating dock you should take it out durring the Winter. It is
Great video, thanks for sharing! Do you find the poles to be enough anchor for winds, tides and boat traffic?
It is where we are located... this would not be suitable in an area where the tide or wind/ water was a factor.
Do you have a total estimate of what this cost you?
Thanks for the Video. I don't understand how you attached the barrels with the strapping to the dock also, I can't find the hardware that that is lagged between the dock sections.
Thanks for your help.
Hey Chris, if you check out one of my other vids on dock building you'll see I did a better job of breaking down all the steps ( How to build a floating dock using barrels... detailed step by step instructions ), if you watch from the 9 min mark you will see how I attached the barrels. You can find the hardware I purchased on this site ( www.multinautic.com/en/products/wooden-docks/category-dock-kits/ )... good luck , hope this helps
cc
This looks awesome! I'm going to build a floating bridge on a lake in our school(not a huge one, it will be 10-15meters long) and this helps a lot! How long did you construct this? like a few days? or hours? or?
I built one like this with my dad our bridge is 17.5 meters and it took us 6 days
That is a fine looking dock. Nice work. I wonder if you turned the barrels 90 degrees and used deeper joists (maybe 2x12 instead of 2x8) if you would even need to hold the barrels in place with strapping. The weight and depth of the lumber should hold everything in place by gravity. Of course, the dock would be about 6 feet wide (I think the barrels are about 3 ft tall), rather than 5 feet. You would also want to use a 2x12 "rim joist" at each of the 6 ft wide ends, and you would need some blocking about 24" from each rim joist to hold the barrels in place.
Thanks for watching and commenting. If I could do it over again for the small amount it would cost, I would've made it 6 ft wide!
The strapping is required. If the water is calm, they will sit in there just fine. But when you get waves caused by boat wakes, etc, there is a lot of rocking and twisting and a good chance for the barrels to slip out. I have a two story dock on barrels and I've seen that happen with others that were not strapped.
Docktor Jim makes valid points, but you can get the barrels for $10 each on Craigslist (sometimes less), which makes them significantly more affordable than the very expensive floats. You can also use sealant on the barrels if necessary. The floats are gorgeous, and definitely made for the task, but I just don't have the $$$ for them. They can run as much or more than your lumber.
Yes I agree, the floats would be the way to go if $$ wasn't an option. I got my barrels for free so I went that route.
Hi...How do you disconnect it from the poles so you can drag it back to shore. Do you unbolt the pole supports or pull the poles out of the water.
Bob Ardis ... we simply pull the poles out and float the dock in one section at a time
I'm getting started on this tomorrow. I've already bought up some wood. What are the connecting brackets called?
The name of the brackets are called "T-Model" Dock Connector Hinge
cc
Hi CC! How is the warf holding up? It's a beautiful dock. Any changes or anything you would do differently? Barrels holding up ok?
peterbutlerjellytime The only thing I might do differently if I was to build a dock like this one would be to use either vinyl straps or rope to hold the barrels in place. I had to replace some of the metal strapping this summer and found vinyl straps (from old ratchet straps to be great)... plus much safer in case one of the kids brushes up against it in the water. I have attached a video of the vinyl straps for you to see. thanks for watching and commenting cc ruclips.net/video/PbRLYQ625Zo/видео.html
+Caper Camper you shld have take old tires and cut them into 3 in.straps to use around your barrels..it will last forever..i built mine 10 yrs ago and is still holding up
thank you for the tip, I will take your advice this summer and try it.
cc
I have a question about pulling it up for the winter. I understand how easy it would be to float the sections up to the shore but im thinking once at the shore you will want to pull the sections up on land 20 feet or so. Can a few guys lift and carry it? If not how would you go about that? thanks.
Yes... you can lift these sections easily with 3-4 guys... I wouldn't recommend less than 3. Depending on how far up the water rises in your location will determine how far up you put each section. You can see in the vid below we don't move up far because we are able to tie them off to the trees.
thanks for watching/commenting
cc
ruclips.net/video/EH0GUDixTio/видео.html
Looks great. I've been looking for something like this to span a 5ft creek that floods to 70ft in the spring. I would build 6ft wide. Also, looking to use as a way for ATV to cross. Do you think this could support the weight (in terms of floating)?
Hey David, tks for watching and commenting. If I were going to do this again I would go 6 ft wide, that's a good call. Is 70 ft a typo, if your creek only went up 7ft , I would use some sort of stabilizing bar on the sides, it will not move once you set the height. I have them on the sides and I can adjust if the water gets uncharacteristically high/low. It could even be something as simple as a 2x4 . If set firmly, it would hold your ATV ! I have an ATV and wouldn't have a problem bringing it onto the dock in the vid. If it floods to 70 ft (that's high) , you wouldn't be able to stabilize your dock and I personally wouldn't be crossing on an ATV. Good luck, hope this helps.
CC
Caper Camper 5ft wide, about 2ft deep that floods to 70ft wide and about 6ft at the deepest. After the flooding goes down the floats would be resting on the ground. Looks like I will build it this summer. I will attach a horizontal support to the stabilizer bars to act as hand rails. Thanks.
What is the pipe diamiter and what is die wall thickness
I live on a lake, in Michigan we freeze. Can these be left in the lake during the winter?
Hi Jennifer, if the lake completely freezes over and you decide to build a dock like this ... you should float it in at the end of your summer season. It is one of the advantages of having a floating dock, it takes about 20 min's to float a dock like this in.
thanks for watching and commenting
cc
Hows your dock holding up 6 years later. I just built a 3 dock system with poles and had to take poles out because of the waves and noise from metal on metal. Not present when you and your neighbors are trying to relax. I see you tightened your bolts to keep the dock stable but once the waves come in it just lifts the poles out of the ground. They are 8 feet poles and are about 1\2 way in. Had no choice but to go with a 1000 lb concrete block i made.
Actually I am pleasantly surprised at the condition of the dock. It sees a lot of action from May to September... really haven’t had to do any maintenance (other than securing the barrels) from season to season. This area sees very little if any tidal activity , we loosen the bolts off if there is a heavy rain to allow for the water rising and tighten once it returns. I may do a follow up vid this summer to show the condition of the dock ; thanks for the idea
i would try to run air line to all the drums to lower and raise in the water. small caps down and open, large caps up with airline. and to equal air in all drums. one side 4x4 up rights solar light caps and 2x4 railings. eye bolts down the length with rope..a safe waterproof stain . 8' x 12' L to the right side at the end with a swing mounted to deck.. 6 landscape timber 3 per side upright 6"" different in length wrapped with rope 5 times on the step up to get on the dock..ok ok my dream...lol but what you did is awesome ..that's exactly the start of my idea I've had for along time...
that's a lot to consider, but it sounds great... thanks for watching
Can you show a picture of the underside of a section and how you have the drums attached?
I have pasted a short video that I have showing what it looks like , hope this helps
ruclips.net/video/xcDL_hoN3oo/видео.html
Here is a video I posted showing all the steps
studio.ruclips.net/user/video1-hXpAojOTY/edit/basic
To make this last years, One floor joist in the middle may be problematic, at a 5 foot width. I would add 2 more with joist hangers, at the inside of each barrel, and cross brace at the end of each inside end of each barrel. May also want saddles between the barrels and floor boards, so all the weight isn't supported by the 1' deck boards sitting on the barrels, straining the boards and deck screws.
You can also use flotation foam to fill the barrels with. Turn all caps parallel to dock so one isn't constantly below water line when deployed, foam filled or not. Seal each cap with silicone after foam fill has set. Drain barrels, invert with open plugs, when it is out of the water over the winter. If there is a manufacturer, near you, that uses bulk foam, it may be cheaper than buying the flotation foam mix kits. If using from a bulk supply, test one for buoyancy.
thanks for watching and offering advice, I did use the silicone on the plugs and made sure they were parallel. We just built a new dock for a friend and we did saddle the barrels and use an extra joist. We measured off the barrel width and snugged it in tight to the barrel. You have some great tips here!
CC
A materials list would have been helpful in the description. What kind of hardware did you use for the dock poles? How are they secured under the water?
...the materials list was dictated to you at 14:15, the screws were not included, we used 2 1/2 " for the platform and 3 1/2 " for the frame, but you can use other sizes give or take a little. The posts (www.multinautic.com/en/products/wooden-docks/category-anchoring-systems/galvanized-steel-posts/) I purchased at Rona but as you can see I'm sure you can purchase online or order at another Building Supply store.
The posts are pound into the water bottom 6-12 inches or so, this works for me because we don't have much current , if you do ... you might have to consider other options.
Here is the same version dock (not as long) with a little more hands on ruclips.net/video/1-hXpAojOTY/видео.html
Hope this helps
cc
Caper Camper VERY much appreciated!!!
Looks like you built this in the summer of 2013. How is it working one year later? Sufficiently stable? I'm looking to build a floating dock and I heard the following about wood docks, "wood sections, unless in very secluded environment, don't make for good floating docks. They would need exceptional corner brackets, or bracing to hold them together. otherwise, the corners get pulled loose very quickly, as the screws dont work well holding the end caps on."
A floating dock that you can leave in over the winter would be ideal, but basically everything I've read or heard is that it's very risky in MN. Anyone seen a floating dock you can keep in over the winter that is almost 100% guaranteed not to break?
Thanks in advance for any comments/advice!
Hi Peter, I have been using wood docks for decades and have never had an issue with the corners coming apart (as you can see from my video though, there is not much of a current /tide where I have been using them). My experience with floating docks (barrels or floatation devices) is that they should be taken in during the winter, this is one of the reasons you would opt for a floating one ( very easy to put in and take out ).
Options for you might include using a metal surface if you don't want wood or to use a more permanent structure where you would build cribs and put your dock over the top, this would be a permanent dock vs. the one you would remove at the end of the season. Both options would increase your cost too!
Hope this helps, thanks for watching and commenting
CC
Caper Camper - Thanks CC! The dock you built here looks awesome. I'm thinking of attempting something similar (and still pull it in every winter). Any problems you had with it? I've heard that sometimes the poles can get pinched and the dock gets stuck higher than water level - then someone steps on it and it drops. That every happen to you or any other issues with this dock?
Actually that has happened, if you check out my more recent video on floating docks (
ruclips.net/video/1-hXpAojOTY/видео.html ) and take note of the 8 min 10 sec point you will see the new brackets have bolts that you can tighten which would prevent this from happening . I actually popped mine off this summer and made my old brackets able to work like this by drilling a hole through and welding a bolt on.
CC
how much did you spend on this? (if you don't mind me asking, rough estimate) and where did you acquire your blue barrels?
Hey Mike, total cost was approx. $1500. The barrels were given to me , so I'm not sure of their value. thanks for watching and commenting
cc
You can find used barrels in many locations at bluebarrelsystems.com. There's a zip-code based barrel search in the Online Store.
how high is it from the water to the top of dock deck?
I don't know exactly, I would estimate it to be in the vicinity of 3 feet or so. Once I put it back in for the year I will measure it.
thanks for watching and commenting
cc
Daniel Guzman I
how deep did you put your poles into the ground
+Andrew R Hey Andrew... the poles do not have to go into the bottom very far. Mine are basically there to stabilize the side to side movement. If you were putting a dock like this in an area where the tide was a factor or the current you might want to go a bit further. The poles on the wharf are about 6 inches in (at the most).thanks for watching and commentingcc
This looks like Minnesota- there are a lot of lakes there. Not much water here in Nevada!!!!!!
Nice video but would’ve been extra cool if you recorded while you were building it
What type of pipe did you use to anchor the dock?
I used all multinautic dock hardware... I found it at a lumber yard/ hardware store
where I live. If you check out multi nautic . com you will see the exact pole I used in the video.
@@capercamper thanks for the information!
What is river depth max to min levels
This dock sits in very shallow water with very little tidal activity, max depth at the end is ~ 5 feet of water
could you like disconnect it and paddle it away?
Yes you could, that is actually how you put it in the water... float each piece into place and connect
thanks for watching
cc
lol just found out how to steal an entire dock :)
...if you had to ask the question about whether a floating dock has the ability to be floated away, I doubt you'd figure out how to disconnect :) ... just sayin
wow chill fam , you pull out the pins on the part connected to the shore.
...not quite, but keep googling it ...
Hi Alex. I'm a little concerned about the price. Not saying it's bad but for doing it yourself it seems that 1500 is a little high for a cost.
The hardware if I can recall was just as expensive as the lumber. If you were creative enough to eliminate some of the hardware I used , you could drastically reduce your cost. Overall though, if you know your prices, this wasn't expensive.
The barrels always leak, and sink over time. I built 6 docks using barrels, and had to replace the flotation on all of them. Barrels don't provide good stability, and they look terrible. It's better to use Ace, Kadco or Permafloat float tubs. You get great stability, ease of attachment, good appearance, and 40 years of service with no leaks.
Hi Dock, thanks for watching and commenting. I will keep an eye on this .
CC
u sound like a barrel snob lol :) you are the only one ever to have had this problem it seems.These barrels can remain in the lake and freeze and will ride up on the frozen lake with 0 issue in my experience . you apparently have the worse luck ever with barrels or maybe are a permafloat dealer :) no hate but any videos of how barrels suck A** cause ive never seen one :)
PS try leaving your precious and expensive permafloats in all winter in a frozen lake and you will be crying in the spring :) all good ! -until you try that :) i kid because i kare and kan!
Sucks you had bad luck with the plastic barrels and sucks you feel that it needs to look good. Mine is 58 feet long floats just fine and looks great. Costs half of what a 10 foot dock would have cost. I have more fun on my dock than than anyone around me and they paid probably triple what i paid.
Do you have any tutorial videos on HOW TO REMOVE THE DAMNED PLASTIC BARCODE PIECES?!? seriously wtf is wrong with people
hold that fucking camera steady!
Don't be a dick. The guy posted this to help others. Jack A!
Sports Fan Well said mate ,too many entitled idiots these days .