Just my two cents: You don't need to clamp the discs yourself. You can set to remove the spiral ring right after removing the big transmission pulley while everything else is still in place. At that point the disc assembly is already compressed because it's still mounted on the tub, and the spiral rings are perfectly reachable just by removing the clutch mechanism. So you could do as shown in this other video ruclips.net/video/iY9CPrmLq-k/видео.html up until minute 7:00, then come back and jump to 6:16 on this one.
@@ToddFun you save me from buying a tools but you don’t need to punch the casing of the bearing because it compressed together with the assembly and with the chase of the washer machine and it easy to make maintenance for the bearing next time other part of the gear is never damage unless there is no oil in the gearbox only the seals change and the top rod some time need to machinery to fix the scratch in it and painting it this washing machine its like the American muscles car i need your advice i have one but the spare part is shortage now so ether i collect it part for future or leave it until dade and buy new one
Excellent video! Thank you for walking through and explaining every step. Too many tutorials out there make assumptions about the viewers' experience level or worse, they leave out some crucial step. I was able to tackle this job with confidence (with very minimal previous experience). Thank you 👍
Very thankful you posted this. My wife dearly loves the "old" washer and begged to keep it rather than buying a new model with the irritating lockouts and pause/resets. I would never have attempted taking that tranny apart like you did so it gave me the confidence to dig in. Lots of fun !!!
Thank you Todd, the parts showed up in a matter of days, and the bearing replacement was easier than expected. She runs like a top now, and its quieter than when I first got it. For anyone who is considering doing this repair, it saved me at least $175 in parts, and it saved me whatever a service call costs from service one too. Highly reccomended, if you are mechanically inclined.
To hold the transmission in a vice, cut a 6" piece of 2x4 wood. Drill a 1" hole in the center, then cut it in half through the center of the hole. You know have two pieces of wood that can clamp the transmission shaft in a vice. The transmission bearing is 6205-2RS-1, it has a 1" inside diameter. When you replace the bearing you can hammer in the new one with the old bearing. The bell housing with the new bearing should be tight to the shaft after re install. If you can move it up and down use some red Loctite or peen the shaft with a nail or set punch to hold the new bearing tight to the transmission shaft. If you want to make sure the bearing is protected from any water leaking from the tub down onto it you can install a boot (seal) over the transmission before install the bell housing. A CV axle boot or something similar would work as a boot. Its recommend using Permatex 20539 Indian Head Gasket Shellac for the tub seal. I used JB weld because I am cheap. The transmission has 75W-90 gear oil that can be changed. There is a black plastic plug that can be pulled out to drain/refill.
Thanks for the video. Used it sucessfully. Used 2 ViceGrip 11R pliers for the spring compression and used the tub upside down to hold things instead of making the holding fixture and using the bench. Helped me help someone else and that is very much appreciated.
Todd, good instructional. Unfortunately the bearings that arrived from Amazon were not -1 even though the description said that’s what I ordered. It took a lot of sweating and head scratching before I figured it out. I froze the transmission in the freezer, and heated the bearing race with a heat gun, just warm enough not to melt the grease out, and it still will not even start past the taper of the transmission shaft. It’s about 0.002” too small for a Press fit. I filed the end of the shaft to extend the taper, and polished it to ensure no burrs existed, and got it to start, but it was so tight it pushed metal in front of the bearing and seized. I ruined the bearing hammering it back off. I finally figured it out and bought the last -1 bearing in town I think, which I will install tomorrow.
I had used the wrong bearing the first time too but in the show notes I posted a link to the 1 inch ID bearing. Sorry if the video was confusing but I thought I had corrected that in the video too. From Show notes: Bearing 6205-2RS-1 The '-1' is important, it means 1 inch inner diameter amzn.to/2Svxe9N
Only skills people's can do such a professional task and can't be done at home due the lack of tools the easier just to replace a complete part, well done job.
I bought new Motor centrifigual clutch which was defective from factory. I made one good clutch using parts from the old one. Some said too clean gunk out the water level sensing tube. My transmission has been replaced. 10 years or more love my GE
I managed to destroy the spiral spring retention clip. After some searching, I found a replacement, and this video ha ha. J&E WRIST PIN RETAINER SPIRAL 1.081 IN. DIAMETER .042 IN. THICK # 990-042-CS. I paid $2.50 for 1 from Pit-Stop-Gang on ebay.its the same exact part. fit perfectly. Also ordered the wrong bearing. Wish I found this video first because Todd specifies that it needs to be 1 inch inner diameter. I ordered the wrong one which was 25mm, It needs to be 25.4mm or 1 inch or it will not fit. Thank you for the video, Really helps a bunch, and very well done.
Great video! I was wondering, would the brake assembly ever just lock up and prevent the washer from spinning? I have an old ge washer that agitated and pumps, but will not spin. For a while, I could just wait for it to go into spin cycle and listen for the click when it shifts gears. I could then manually spin the drum from the top and then it would get going on its own. Now it just locks at the spin cycle and I cannot move the drum. The motor also starts to get hot and smoke a little. Looking for a used transmission brake assembly on eBay in the meantime.
Great work ToddI made my jig out of the old Drum bushing/bearing. I mounted it on a small piece of scrap wood and drilled a hole just a little larger than the old drum bushing/bearing. It worked great. Thank you again for a fabulous job.Barry
Found out its a 1-11/16th nut for those of us who want to use an impact to get the drum out. Thanks for this video. I need to do this for mine and these transmissions are no longer available.
@@garvdarb The socket is easy to find. I scrapped my washer and went with an 1980's Maytag for free. Not interested in the new crap designed to fail after a few years
Thanks for the hard work. I'm trying to do this repair but I am struggling with the part of getting the big spring out where you grinded it around. I don't have a precision, grinding disc, plus my pulse have never been good, so I'm using a 24TPI hack saw. I have eaten away a good part, similar to what you have but mine is not showing signs of a wedge or separation, and I'm really afraid if I keep hacking I might cut too much and do unrepairable damage to the shaft.
Update 2: I don't know what I am doing wrong but for some reason but the gasket that goes between the transmission and the motor (the one with 6 holes where 4 are for the screws that fix in place the transmission to the frame on the bottom) is hugging it too tightly and the pulley can't spin it. Maybe it is something to do with the big spring, but I can seem to solve the situation.
What is the use of the piece you put on at 19:07 ? In my machine, the same part was broken and I collected it without installing it. During washing, the inner drum rotates faster than normal, does it have anything to do with the broken part?
Hi Todd- I followed your advice here and replaced that bearing, and my washer (which had not been spinning) spun like a charm. Thanks for that. Unfortunately, a couple weeks later, my 7 year old son tripped and fell into the washer pretty hard and loads are unbalanced now, and I'm trying to figure out why. One idea I have is that it may originate from too much play in the vertically-grooved shaft that comes out of the post that sticks through the tub hub.. the shaft that the agitator assembly attaches to. When the spin cycle starts, before it spins out of control in that unbalanced load kind of way, I see a lot of wobble in the agitator.. and the shaft itself does indeed have a lot of lateral wobble within the post. I'm trying to figure out how that shaft is normally sturdied up so that it doesn't wobble. If I understand the mechanism right, it seems like it normally rotates around within the post with agitation, so this inner shaft must have some kind of mechanism that holds it straight during agitation, like a bearing. But all I can see when I peer in where the shaft enters the post is what might be some kind of gaskety material.. looks like there could be a bearing in there, but I'm not sure. Have you ever explored this, by chance? I guess if this is plausible, the question becomes whether this is a servicable part of the unit. Hmm. Thanks- UPDATE: I just replaced the tub nut (hub nut?), not thinking this would fix the problem, but it seemed like it might have been slightly misthreaded (those soft aluminum threads), and wanted to rule that out as the problem. A test wash without clothes just now didn't go out of balance. The agitator still seems wobbly, but so far so good..
@@ToddFun RIght Todd. Yes, I spent some time leveling and stabilizing everything. I'd removed the bottom a while back when I had a leak and had never put it back on, so thought that caused a lack of stability that led to this. Unexpectedly, it turns out the tub nut replacement seems to have done the trick!
How about them Amana, kenmore,whirlpool gearcases? They are also buy the entire thing deal, except their transmission is just a tin can cheap stuff. They have two simple bearings and of course it is the top one which is under the seal of course that gets the water and takes the beating. I have once succefully replaced one bearing and got it going. My next attempt is to use another case and destroy it and same the transmission while destroy the first transmission to save the case itself. And then simply install the transmission on the case that I saved and of course install a bearing. I drill out the rivets and simply install bolt and nuts afterwards in their place. I have sprayed WD40 where the bearing is and let it soak over night... but had no luck. I wonder if you think of a better method to save the case apart without destroying the transmission or vice versa? :-)
Very good video! It would be great to use a hydraulic press for the bearing work. You can also use permanent lock tite instead of staking the bearing in place. Make sure you clean the metal with brake cleaner or acetone before applying locktite.
What about the seal on the other end? When I was removing the reverse thread nut in the tub I made the mistake of trying to pull out that seal. Will it leak from the top? Will water get into the top of the shaft. FYI, not taling about the tub seal, it looks like a rubber boot seal type washer on top of the transmission shaft.
They discontinued this transmission. I replaced it twice since 1998, and now doing it a third time. It's a pretty simple swap. But on mine. The bearing never failed. It always stops agitating. Being that these assemblies don't last ten years. I'll buy a new washer before I buy a used transmission off Ebay. The going rate for used is $150. A cheap top loader start under $400.
A couple of additional tips, first, if you have the transmission out, at least change the top and bottom shaft seals (found on eBay) and pull the black fill plug on top of the transmission and drain the old transmission oil and refill with new 75w-90 gear oil. Second, rather than using a large socket to pound in the bearing, use the OLD bearing on top of the new along with a block of wood. No need to buy rarely-used giant sockets.
Hi Todd, thanks for the great video. I got it all apart no problem. But when reassembling the last pieces, is there a timing procedure that I have to be careful of? I'm talking about the pieces with the collars on them for engagement. I noticed an arrow indicator on one of the pieces. Thanks!
I would think if the tabs between the top and bottom are gapped about the same as in my video at 17:47 you should be fine. That's the most I know. Maybe there is a mark someplace but I don't remember and don't see anything in the video.
A friggin' $2 part to fix what would otherwise be $150-$400+. 🤦🏽♂️ At those prices, you might as well buy the tools to fix it yourself and invest for future work. I like the pegboard and other setups. Where did you get the clamps? My grandfather, a former Boeing engineer, had his garage filled with this sort of stuff (mechanical engineer), but I'm sadly don't have such a luxurious spread, and am pretty cash strapped. So, I was hoping to find either used tools or the like that I can use for repairs. Having (relatively) huge clamps like that is nice. In my own case, the washer is grinding at agitation, which I anticipate is due either to the bearings or brass balls being damaged/lacking lube. Out of curiosity - does anyone have thoughts about alternative greases? Like, how would a dielectric synthetic grease work compared with what I anticipate is plain old crude axel grease? Particularly, if the synthetic is highly water resistant?
This gear open before look to all extra silicon .no need to chisel the bearing or the last part because the bearing hold by the boody of gears so it will not comes out and the last part it will hold by the roller and nut so it will be keep all part in it place the charm do that because they sale it so the unit will travel from place to place and the part will fall down but when you repair it you will fix it in one place i hope you understand me and i suggest to make spot welding if you want to chisel better and more easy because you will take from the casing and by repair it many time it will damage i hope you under stand me
Todd, the 6205-2rs1 (new bearing) will not go on. The inner race is smaller than the one that came off. The part number of the one that came off was 6205-2rs-1r and the one I got off of ebay was 6205-2rs1. It is microscopically smaller than the original one. I am going to try to widen the inner race with a drill bit/dremmel (i know not recommended) but I have to get this thing running before my wife kills me. Thoughts/ideas? thanks
+Daryl Cesal Your eBay source sold you the wrong part. Even if it is marked correctly it is the wrong part. Same thing happened to me which is why I put in the extra detail about the inner diameter needing to be 1 inch. It is a very confusing bearing as the whole thing is in metric units with the exception of the inner diameter. Follow the link this link to my blog posting for more details: www.toddfun.com/2015/06/06/replace-bearing-in-washing-machine-transmission-brake-assembly/ The bearing that worked for me was: astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B0045FJNA4 Do not try to change your bearing if it is too small, just order the one off Amazon and in a few days you can put the machine together working.
+Todd Harrison Todd, thank you for the reply. Actually I bought a small grinding wheel drill bit and worked it for 30 minutes and was able to take enough material off to get it on. Now getting ready to put it back together... thanks man!
+Daryl Cesal Well that is interesting solution. I would think it wouldn't be too balanced and would quickly develop a shack. But if you got it just right it might be just fine. Let me know how it holds up after ~10 or so loads.
difference looks like 0.38mm. Thermal expansion and contraction. can of air duster, freezer or dry ice for cold = shrinks. Torch, oven red hot poker etc. For expand. When temp equalized that sucker is not going anywhere.Haven't tried it here but has worked when press fitting bearings without a press.
Todd, I have an old signature washing machine model sig60100towg. The thing has been grinding for years and finally gave out. It agitates but won't spin. Does this sound like a transmission to you. My washer looks very similar but more basic with just one knob. I believe it's from the 90's. Also the agitator just doesn't want to come out of the washer. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've looked for years for someone on RUclips with your knowledge and I'm amazed that I found it now. I figure being stuck inside nowadays is the perfect time to do some home repairs. Thanks
Really hard to say. So many things can go wrong. If it agitates then the transmission is fine. However there are some solenoids that need to switch the transmission in/out of spin/agitate so it could be that or the mechanical timer as those older machines will have contact points in the timer that need to make/break the circuit to the different solenoid engagements for the transmission. The grinding however could mean physical damage so it could be a very different problem. Nowadays it is best to just watch Facebook offer-up, local Craig's list or other local for sale sites that you can find because people are putting good machines up for sale or for fee all the time as they upgrade to the fancy front loading crap. Good luck.
Say I broke open the transmission found nothing was wrong. Lost a minor amount of fluid, now I need to top off and refresh seal. Best way of going about that?
+Chris Swicord Clean the and dry the surfaces and use this from my Amazon store or get it at an auto motive parts store: astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B0092LQHGY For oil, you can use any 90 weight gear oil from automotive store but replace all the oil so you don't have two oil types mixing. The pros will order an exact Gear Case Oil for the washer such as: www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-gear-case-oil-350572-ap3072960.html Good Luck with your repair.
Todd , first thanks for posting the video. I myself have a GE topload washer, recently there was a lot of scraping noise at the bottom of the washer...seems like it was out of balanced or the metal plate at the bottom had "popped" up out of place and was rubbing against the tub??? anyways it started leaking water and at first I thought it was a tub seal so I did all the work removing everything, got access to the tub, removed the agitator etc etc and the nut on the drive shaft, got all the way down to the tub seal...man was it hard to get out....had to use some wd 40 and needle nose pliers but it came out...I put the new tub seal in and put it all back together correctly and presto it still leaks......if it was rubbing against metal while running would the leak be in the outter tub or inner tub or should I replace both including the tub bearing in the bottom??? being on disability its hard to come up with the money for a new washer and the local appliance store in Mankato KS stiffed me outta $200 for essentially a piece of doop. Any ideals would help.
That would be hard to help without being there to examine the unit. I know the tub seals will leak if you don't put them in with some sealant. Put them in dry and they will leak. Maybe just use some automotive RTV gasket sealant would be fine. If the tub has a leak then you have to replace it. I guess you could take it out and fill it just under the seal and let it set to see if anything drains out. you might just have a drain hose or clamp that is bad. Or the pump has a leak or the the drain hose to the outlet is cracked. I have seen those cheap plastic exit drain hoses rub a hole and then you have a drain leak in that cheap hose that attaches to the back, if it is those are cheap.
Questions i watch this video and my washer machine wash drain the water but stop after drain the water that bearing have something to do with the problem
Todd...great video..need some help have you taken the gearcasing apart (exact same one as your brg. replacement)...my washing machine won't agitate but does spin. When I pulled up on the agitator to remove the entire shaft came out with it from within the gear case...any pics of inside gearcase. Thanks in advance
I have. There is some simple gear tracks inside. It would be serviceable if you could get the internal parts. However, I have never seen anybody sell the internal parts of the transmission. You would have to find a donor or purchase the whole assemble: www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/WH38X10002/0026/363.html
WCSE4230A0MM agitate ok but wont spin, motor check ok, turn transmition pulley by hand, turn ok in agitate direction, but only turn about 1/4 turn in spin direction then lockup wont turn any more, appreciate any help?
Hey Todd. I wrote in last year that I followed your advice and did this rebuild, with good results (thanks again). Well, I'm now seeing a new issue.. when the washer is agitating, the tub isn't holding tight. It makes me think something needs to be addressed in the disc brake assembly. I had taken it apart recently, and thought I might have put the clutch piece back incorrectly (the part that rests on the brass bearings). But I looked again and think that isn't the problem. The brake pad looks okay, in place.. so I'm not exactly sure what the problem is yet. Don't know if you've run into this issue or by chance have any ideas. Any thought would be appreciated!
Maybe the 4 springs could be worn out that usually push the brake disc down and hold it from rotating? I guess I'll just take the whole thing apart again!..
@@ToddFun You guessed it Todd! I haven't tested this with a load yet, but the basket is no longer rotating when the washer is off, so I expect it won't rotate during agitation. I found that the tub nut (hub nut?) was loose! Tightened it up, and it seems good to go. Yeesh. Thanks Todd!
I hope someone can help me. I have a washer that I am unable to turn the coupler on the transmission clockwise it will only turn counter clockwise BUT with motor and transmission out of washer both spin freely. Since I am currently unemployed I have to determine if its the transmission or something like the brakes dragging or basket drive assembly. i noticed the cam has no play outside the washer but while turning the basket drive assembly counterclockwise to get it back up into the washer it is difficult maybe its supposed to be? Also once in the washer there is alot of play in cam. One other thing I noticed was once the transmission was in the coupler would spin clockwise a little bit but not enough to turn the tub then I would hear a click and it wouldnt turn anymore and it never turned far enough for the tub to spin. Is that click something locking up with the brakes or in the transmission? i disassembled the brakes took of the spring to make sure they move freely. There was no play in the brakes so they seem okay to someone who doesnt know what they are supposed to feel like. Also we replaced the transmission fluid with 90 wt. Ugh someone please help we have been watching videos and searching the internet for a week. We replaced the capacitor before figuring out it was bound up somehow. thanks in advance for any help you can give.
saludos amigo necesito su ayuda estube viendo su video y esta muy bueno claro no hablo ni entiendo el inglis pero viendo el video se entiende muy bien mi problema es ke canbie la rolinera y alme el sistema de enbrague y freno de la trasmicion pero en lo que le pongo la araña me queda frenada ke debo hacer plis
The bearing needs to be a 6205 with a 1" bore. It is an odd ball bearing but can be had. I ordered mine through Motion Industries. $33 for that sucker.
Todd Harrison thank you very much I appreciate it. Also very informative video thanks for the info you’re the only video I can find on this problem. Also I tried to buy the bearing off a appliance parts store but they only sell the whole transmission. So thanks again for the link
For others looking like me because their washing tub seal failed which destroyed the bearing, you cannot buy the transmission and brake assembly. They do not sell it anymore. You could look on eBay for a used assembly.
Sir, at 6:38, you held up a clear plastic bag with the brass disk bearings & disk plate inside that appeared to have at least one spring clip in it. Isn't that what they were?
+Fred C Dobbs In the bag where the original parts plus a ring clip I thought I could substitute for the spiral ring clip. I had cleaned the parts put them in a ziplock bag to keep from loosing them while I finished the rebuild. The clip you see in the bag didn't fit because it was a normal ring spring clip with tabs. I had to use the original spiral clips. Other viewers have noted that McMaster Carr sells those spiral retaining rings (search for spiral retaining rings at www.mcmaster.com/
Hey thanks for the response... i think i found it.... but i'll have to order it and have it shipped to Trinidad.. here's the link to the part.. www.appliance-parts-usa.com/G-TRANSMISSION-brake-pad-fit-WH38X10002-PAD-O3A0_p_3755.html
@@ToddFun thanks for reply. Having really hard time finding. Used to be part no: WH01x10123 but no one has any more. You seem like a handy guy - ever use "friction material sheets" to cutout your own? I'm considering that idea. Yours in the vid definitely is not the standard oem part.
@@dallasbiggz7007 Very standard friction sheet so could get one from a "look-a-like" transmission but that is a gamble unless you can go to a used machine / servers shop and just ask if they have any that might fit.
If only a noisy barring use a dental pick to remove the grease seal move it up onto the bottom of the transmission then repack the barring with grease and push the seal back into place as you can only get to the top it may take a day or to, to work the grease into the bottom.
+Jerome Davis Not sure about the size difference but the gear loop did have about the same weight as 90 weight. Not a lot of it in the one I took apart in for this video. Maybe 2 cups at most. It was yellowish / clear thick oil. If that helps.
I can't get the new bearing to go back on the shaft, I ruined one new bearing trying, I'm going to go to a garage that has a hydraulic press or else I have to grind the shaft down.
Make sure you are getting the correct bearing! Bearing 6205-2RS-1 The ‘-1’ is important, it means 1 inch inner diameter www.amazon.com/KML-6205-2RS-1-Double-Sealed-Bearing/dp/B01N1EOQIY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=6205-2RS-1&qid=1551287949&s=gateway&sr=8-4&linkCode=sl1&tag=tod0f5-20&linkId=bfd8b7ddcc5da4edb4c3460b0cef7dfe&language=en_US www.toddfun.com/2015/06/06/replace-bearing-in-washing-machine-transmission-brake-assembly/
Great video as always Todd. I think I might have gone for a spot of Loctite 275 on the bearing though the chisel bit is a bit barbaric for me. But hey, its was a damn good fix and very entertaining. Thanks m8.
I always pull the plastic covers on the “sealed bearing” and repack with high quality wheel bearing grease. The bearings are Chinese and they use cheap quality grease…
My only critique is you used a regular claw hammer...a brass hammer or a ball peen hammer would be safer...and a brass drift for driving the bearing back in...or better than that, use your vise and press it in.
youbecha64 yeah the steel hammer on the socket is not a good idea, when i was a kid i did the same thing but hit the edge of the socket and a chip the size of a woodruff key broke off and went straight in my hand, its still in there about 25 years later, a softer face mallet is safer
Folks , good luck trying to get off the tub hub nut. Just in case someone gets the idea that if they CAN'T break it loose with the special tool and a baby sledge that they will just cut the nut somehow to get it off , I say STOP!! Been there tried that. It CAN"T be gotten off that way. The nut recesses down into the base of the inner tub and you can't get down there deep enough without damaging the inner tub base.Here are 2 tricks to get off that stubborn nut. 1. squirt some Tilex all around the nut and let sit over night. This hopefully will dissolve the minerals that are binding the nut to the tranny .WD40 etc , etc WON'T work. If TIlex doesn't work then the ONLY fool proof method I have found is 2. Get a 43mm Deep socket and an electric or pneumatic impact gun. END OF STORY! Please note the hub nut is REVERSE THREADED. So righty loosey lefty tighty
After messing with my 12 year old GE washer the last two weeks I learned a lot about how crappy these are made, especially this specific transmission and it's faulty design are, a little google searching finds all the posts and comments all over the web about this notorious POS GE transmission that they knew about since 1995 and have done nothing about. My saga started with a simple minor tub leak, so I decided to buy a new seal and bearing, got those ordered, took the machine apart and found the bottom bearing on the transmission was shot, not wanting to mess with all this plus finding the bearings and parts, I bought a factory reconditioned transmission on Ebay from a big appliance outfit for $128 and a 6 mo warrantee. I got that, put it in, and was putting the whole thing back into the cabinet when I suddenly noticed an 8" long CRACK in the cheap plastic outer tub! $75 later a new one was on my doorstep the next day, the old one was so brittle that just flexing it broke chunks out, Imagine that happening when full of water! I get the whole shebang back in, and with 4 new rubber retainer deals for the tub, new drain hose and went to wash a load, no more leak, but then it wouldn't SPIN, I could get it to spin if I pushed the pully and "jump started" it then the motor would do it. That motor turned free, so the bearings were fine, so I figured the starting capacitor was bad, replaced that $20- same problem! so I figured the stator on the motor maybe had some issue and it was weak, I bought a new in box OEM GE motor on Ebay for $119, but that came damaged in shipping- the aluminum housing was cracked, they issued a full refund, so I ordered another motor from another seller, meanwhile since the stator was intact I took the old motor apart, swopped the aluminum ends onto the other motor and tested it, turned just fine, spun freely, so I put that in, SAME exact problem!!! this new motor wouldn't spin even an EMPTY tub unless I first pushed the pully on it to help the motor start turning. So that was the last straw on this POS, best I can figure is the transmission is too tight internally or something and putting too much of a load on the motor (either the old or the new one- same thing happened) which gets VERY hot- you cant even briefly touch the metal case of the motor after just one small "light" wash cycle. It otherwise agitates just fine. I bought a new machine, told the transmission seller I wanted to return that item as it appears defective, so I got my money refunded on that, and I calncelled the other motor and got a refund on that, so far I'm out $177 I can't recover. This machine's transmission design sucks, you get one tub leak and that's pretty much the end of the transmission bearing and probably even the motor, what pisses me off is this exact transmission is notorious for having a defective design, with many people reporting the brake fails, and the bearing fails. Had I read that before last night I'd have junked the thing- no point repairing a defective design that will have the same problems again.
You have to expect bearings to fail. NOTHING lasts forever. It happens on cars, trucks...anything that is used wears out even on Toyotas. FYI- There are many videos out there that address the bearing issue. Such as putting a CV boot above the bearing in case the tub seal leaks water so it will not get on the bearing. I do know the turtle shaped brake disc can crack, but they are still usable. Mine is still intact after 25 years. You will not find a transmission that well built in a new machine. With all the plastic they use nowadays.
@@bobsoft I agree with you that this transmission is fairly well built - that is it will probably last 10 years under normal washing conditions. I do rebuild these with outsourced parts. Removing the tub from then transmission shaft sometimes takes HEAT. One nice feature of these washers is they fill with water over the clothes and wash the clothes very well. The washers built today are another story. Good luck trying to get 10 years of trouble free washing with newer style washers.
Buy a Maytag top loader for 450 bucks 10 yr warranty on transmission and hard wear with a one yr full warranty from seller delivered installed and old piece of shit removed. All that trouble only to watch the next malfunction happen. And if you can spend another 120 you can buy a full 5 yr warranty. If the 5 yr's passes without using the warranty you get your choice of a 60 dollar refund or you can extend the 5 yr warranty for another 5 yr's.
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Just my two cents: You don't need to clamp the discs yourself. You can set to remove the spiral ring right after removing the big transmission pulley while everything else is still in place. At that point the disc assembly is already compressed because it's still mounted on the tub, and the spiral rings are perfectly reachable just by removing the clutch mechanism. So you could do as shown in this other video ruclips.net/video/iY9CPrmLq-k/видео.html up until minute 7:00, then come back and jump to 6:16 on this one.
SUPER GREAT TIP! Thanks for stopping by and helping out. I have pinned your comment to the top of the comment stack. I hope others take a look too.
haha thanks! Glad to be of help. Your video was very helpful to fix my washer.
A nice informative video and also refined by viewers
@@ToddFun you save me from buying a tools but you don’t need to punch the casing of the bearing because it compressed together with the assembly and with the chase of the washer machine and it easy to make maintenance for the bearing next time other part of the gear is never damage unless there is no oil in the gearbox only the seals change and the top rod some time need to machinery to fix the scratch in it and painting it this washing machine its like the American muscles car i need your advice i have one but the spare part is shortage now so ether i collect it part for future or leave it until dade and buy new one
Excellent video! Thank you for walking through and explaining every step. Too many tutorials out there make assumptions about the viewers' experience level or worse, they leave out some crucial step. I was able to tackle this job with confidence (with very minimal previous experience). Thank you 👍
Great job. Steel wool works wonders when cleaning bearing races, etc..
I CAN'T BELIEVE GE DISCONTINUED THIS!
They suck! They want you to buy a new one which I just did.
Very thankful you posted this. My wife dearly loves the "old" washer and begged to keep it rather than buying a new model with the irritating lockouts and pause/resets. I would never have attempted taking that tranny apart like you did so it gave me the confidence to dig in. Lots of fun !!!
So glad to be helpful. Let me know how it works out.
Thank you Todd, the parts showed up in a matter of days, and the bearing replacement was easier than expected. She runs like a top now, and its quieter than when I first got it. For anyone who is considering doing this repair, it saved me at least $175 in parts, and it saved me whatever a service call costs from service one too. Highly reccomended, if you are mechanically inclined.
+Darin Bailey Great news! Thanks for the recommendations and I'm glad it was helpful.
To hold the transmission in a vice, cut a 6" piece of 2x4 wood. Drill a 1" hole in the center, then cut it in half through the center of the hole. You know have two pieces of wood that can clamp the transmission shaft in a vice. The transmission bearing is 6205-2RS-1, it has a 1" inside diameter. When you replace the bearing you can hammer in the new one with the old bearing. The bell housing with the new bearing should be tight to the shaft after re install. If you can move it up and down use some red Loctite or peen the shaft with a nail or set punch to hold the new bearing tight to the transmission shaft. If you want to make sure the bearing is protected from any water leaking from the tub down onto it you can install a boot (seal) over the transmission before install the bell housing. A CV axle boot or something similar would work as a boot. Its recommend using Permatex 20539 Indian Head Gasket Shellac for the tub seal. I used JB weld because I am cheap. The transmission has 75W-90 gear oil that can be changed. There is a black plastic plug that can be pulled out to drain/refill.
Nice. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Used it sucessfully. Used 2 ViceGrip 11R pliers for the spring compression and used the tub upside down to hold things instead of making the holding fixture and using the bench. Helped me help someone else and that is very much appreciated.
Todd, good instructional. Unfortunately the bearings that arrived from Amazon were not -1 even though the description said that’s what I ordered. It took a lot of sweating and head scratching before I figured it out. I froze the transmission in the freezer, and heated the bearing race with a heat gun, just warm enough not to melt the grease out, and it still will not even start past the taper of the transmission shaft. It’s about 0.002” too small for a Press fit.
I filed the end of the shaft to extend the taper, and polished it to ensure no burrs existed, and got it to start, but it was so tight it pushed metal in front of the bearing and seized. I ruined the bearing hammering it back off.
I finally figured it out and bought the last -1 bearing in town I think, which I will install tomorrow.
I had used the wrong bearing the first time too but in the show notes I posted a link to the 1 inch ID bearing. Sorry if the video was confusing but I thought I had corrected that in the video too. From Show notes:
Bearing 6205-2RS-1
The '-1' is important, it means 1 inch inner diameter
amzn.to/2Svxe9N
Only skills people's can do such a professional task and can't be done at home due the lack of tools the easier just to replace a complete part, well done job.
When you do the work yourself the tools pay for themselves is the old saying.
I bought new Motor centrifigual clutch which was defective from factory. I made one good clutch using parts from the old one. Some said too clean gunk out the water level sensing tube.
My transmission has been replaced. 10 years or more love my GE
I managed to destroy the spiral spring retention clip. After some searching, I found a replacement, and this video ha ha. J&E WRIST PIN RETAINER SPIRAL 1.081 IN. DIAMETER .042 IN. THICK # 990-042-CS. I paid $2.50 for 1 from Pit-Stop-Gang on ebay.its the same exact part. fit perfectly. Also ordered the wrong bearing. Wish I found this video first because Todd specifies that it needs to be 1 inch inner diameter. I ordered the wrong one which was 25mm, It needs to be 25.4mm or 1 inch or it will not fit. Thank you for the video, Really helps a bunch, and very well done.
Thank you very much for sharing the details. I will post them to my blog as well.
Saved me. Thanks !
Great video! I was wondering, would the brake assembly ever just lock up and prevent the washer from spinning? I have an old ge washer that agitated and pumps, but will not spin. For a while, I could just wait for it to go into spin cycle and listen for the click when it shifts gears. I could then manually spin the drum from the top and then it would get going on its own. Now it just locks at the spin cycle and I cannot move the drum. The motor also starts to get hot and smoke a little. Looking for a used transmission brake assembly on eBay in the meantime.
Great work ToddI made my jig out of the old Drum bushing/bearing. I mounted it on a small piece of scrap wood and drilled a hole just a little larger than the old drum bushing/bearing. It worked great. Thank you again for a fabulous job.Barry
+Barry K Sure, glad to help.
Found out its a 1-11/16th nut for those of us who want to use an impact to get the drum out.
Thanks for this video. I need to do this for mine and these transmissions are no longer available.
The illusive 1 11/16" socket. Buy a new washer
@@garvdarb The socket is easy to find.
I scrapped my washer and went with an 1980's Maytag for free. Not interested in the new crap designed to fail after a few years
One question, these washing machines when they shake the basket does it move a little clockwise? Or should it be completely static, thanks
Thanks for the hard work. I'm trying to do this repair but I am struggling with the part of getting the big spring out where you grinded it around. I don't have a precision, grinding disc, plus my pulse have never been good, so I'm using a 24TPI hack saw. I have eaten away a good part, similar to what you have but mine is not showing signs of a wedge or separation, and I'm really afraid if I keep hacking I might cut too much and do unrepairable damage to the shaft.
Update: I hit it lightly with a hammer and noticed it was sliding up, so I was able to take it apart and do the repair. Thank you.
Update 2: I don't know what I am doing wrong but for some reason but the gasket that goes between the transmission and the motor (the one with 6 holes where 4 are for the screws that fix in place the transmission to the frame on the bottom) is hugging it too tightly and the pulley can't spin it. Maybe it is something to do with the big spring, but I can seem to solve the situation.
Saw your Jeep radio fix post. Thanks a lot. You fix washing machines! You are a Renaissance Man!
stanthology yes, I sure do try to be. Thanks.
What is the use of the piece you put on at 19:07 ? In my machine, the same part was broken and I collected it without installing it. During washing, the inner drum rotates faster than normal, does it have anything to do with the broken part?
Hi Todd- I followed your advice here and replaced that bearing, and my washer (which had not been spinning) spun like a charm. Thanks for that.
Unfortunately, a couple weeks later, my 7 year old son tripped and fell into the washer pretty hard and loads are unbalanced now, and I'm trying to figure out why. One idea I have is that it may originate from too much play in the vertically-grooved shaft that comes out of the post that sticks through the tub hub.. the shaft that the agitator assembly attaches to. When the spin cycle starts, before it spins out of control in that unbalanced load kind of way, I see a lot of wobble in the agitator.. and the shaft itself does indeed have a lot of lateral wobble within the post. I'm trying to figure out how that shaft is normally sturdied up so that it doesn't wobble. If I understand the mechanism right, it seems like it normally rotates around within the post with agitation, so this inner shaft must have some kind of mechanism that holds it straight during agitation, like a bearing. But all I can see when I peer in where the shaft enters the post is what might be some kind of gaskety material.. looks like there could be a bearing in there, but I'm not sure. Have you ever explored this, by chance?
I guess if this is plausible, the question becomes whether this is a servicable part of the unit. Hmm. Thanks-
UPDATE: I just replaced the tub nut (hub nut?), not thinking this would fix the problem, but it seemed like it might have been slightly misthreaded (those soft aluminum threads), and wanted to rule that out as the problem. A test wash without clothes just now didn't go out of balance. The agitator still seems wobbly, but so far so good..
Check that the feet are set correctly to balance the machine, level and firm.
@@ToddFun RIght Todd. Yes, I spent some time leveling and stabilizing everything. I'd removed the bottom a while back when I had a leak and had never put it back on, so thought that caused a lack of stability that led to this. Unexpectedly, it turns out the tub nut replacement seems to have done the trick!
How about them Amana, kenmore,whirlpool gearcases? They are also buy the entire thing deal, except their transmission is just a tin can cheap stuff. They have two simple bearings and of course it is the top one which is under the seal of course that gets the water and takes the beating. I have once succefully replaced one bearing and got it going.
My next attempt is to use another case and destroy it and same the transmission while destroy the first transmission to save the case itself. And then simply install the transmission on the case that I saved and of course install a bearing.
I drill out the rivets and simply install bolt and nuts afterwards in their place.
I have sprayed WD40 where the bearing is and let it soak over night... but had no luck.
I wonder if you think of a better method to save the case apart without destroying the transmission or vice versa? :-)
I've had 2 bearings sent both too small. Where did you get yours.
Very good video! It would be great to use a hydraulic press for the bearing work. You can also use permanent lock tite instead of staking the bearing in place. Make sure you clean the metal with brake cleaner or acetone before applying locktite.
Interesting idea. I will try to remember that tip. Thanks.
What about the seal on the other end? When I was removing the reverse thread nut in the tub I made the mistake of trying to pull out that seal. Will it leak from the top? Will water get into the top of the shaft. FYI, not taling about the tub seal, it looks like a rubber boot seal type washer on top of the transmission shaft.
They discontinued this transmission. I replaced it twice since 1998, and now doing it a third time. It's a pretty simple swap. But on mine. The bearing never failed. It always stops agitating. Being that these assemblies don't last ten years. I'll buy a new washer before I buy a used transmission off Ebay. The going rate for used is $150. A cheap top loader start under $400.
thanks for the video it will be very helpful for finishing the dismantling of the washer after my buddy gets the agitator out
What gear oil is used in this transmission? Just curious.
A couple of additional tips, first, if you have the transmission out, at least change the top and bottom shaft seals (found on eBay) and pull the black fill plug on top of the transmission and drain the old transmission oil and refill with new 75w-90 gear oil.
Second, rather than using a large socket to pound in the bearing, use the OLD bearing on top of the new along with a block of wood. No need to buy rarely-used giant sockets.
Would you have the listing or part number to these seals?
Hi Todd, thanks for the great video. I got it all apart no problem. But when reassembling the last pieces, is there a timing procedure that I have to be careful of? I'm talking about the pieces with the collars on them for engagement. I noticed an arrow indicator on one of the pieces. Thanks!
I would think if the tabs between the top and bottom are gapped about the same as in my video at 17:47 you should be fine. That's the most I know. Maybe there is a mark someplace but I don't remember and don't see anything in the video.
Excelente Video, muy completo. Gracias por tu tiempo para compartirlo. Saludos desde Juárez México
A friggin' $2 part to fix what would otherwise be $150-$400+. 🤦🏽♂️ At those prices, you might as well buy the tools to fix it yourself and invest for future work.
I like the pegboard and other setups.
Where did you get the clamps?
My grandfather, a former Boeing engineer, had his garage filled with this sort of stuff (mechanical engineer), but I'm sadly don't have such a luxurious spread, and am pretty cash strapped. So, I was hoping to find either used tools or the like that I can use for repairs.
Having (relatively) huge clamps like that is nice.
In my own case, the washer is grinding at agitation, which I anticipate is due either to the bearings or brass balls being damaged/lacking lube.
Out of curiosity - does anyone have thoughts about alternative greases? Like, how would a dielectric synthetic grease work compared with what I anticipate is plain old crude axel grease? Particularly, if the synthetic is highly water resistant?
I got the camps at Harbor Freight
This gear open before look to all extra silicon .no need to chisel the bearing or the last part because the bearing hold by the boody of gears so it will not comes out and the last part it will hold by the roller and nut so it will be keep all part in it place the charm do that because they sale it so the unit will travel from place to place and the part will fall down but when you repair it you will fix it in one place i hope you understand me and i suggest to make spot welding if you want to chisel better and more easy because you will take from the casing and by repair it many time it will damage i hope you under stand me
Hi Tood, is it a great video, Thanks. But I have a question, Where i can get the brake disc, of this machine?.... Thank you again.
I've never seen just that for sale. Maybe try eBay.
So basically you took out the spiral black retainer clips and threw them away and replaced the middl bearing and put it back together?
I replaced the bearing but I reused the spiral retainer clips.
Todd, the 6205-2rs1 (new bearing) will not go on. The inner race is smaller than the one that came off. The part number of the one that came off was 6205-2rs-1r and the one I got off of ebay was 6205-2rs1. It is microscopically smaller than the original one. I am going to try to widen the inner race with a drill bit/dremmel (i know not recommended) but I have to get this thing running before my wife kills me. Thoughts/ideas? thanks
+Daryl Cesal Your eBay source sold you the wrong part. Even if it is marked correctly it is the wrong part. Same thing happened to me which is why I put in the extra detail about the inner diameter needing to be 1 inch. It is a very confusing bearing as the whole thing is in metric units with the exception of the inner diameter. Follow the link this link to my blog posting for more details:
www.toddfun.com/2015/06/06/replace-bearing-in-washing-machine-transmission-brake-assembly/
The bearing that worked for me was:
astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B0045FJNA4
Do not try to change your bearing if it is too small, just order the one off Amazon and in a few days you can put the machine together working.
+Todd Harrison Todd, thank you for the reply. Actually I bought a small grinding wheel drill bit and worked it for 30 minutes and was able to take enough material off to get it on. Now getting ready to put it back together... thanks man!
+Daryl Cesal Well that is interesting solution. I would think it wouldn't be too balanced and would quickly develop a shack. But if you got it just right it might be just fine. Let me know how it holds up after ~10 or so loads.
difference looks like 0.38mm. Thermal expansion and contraction. can of air duster, freezer or dry ice for cold = shrinks. Torch, oven red hot poker etc. For expand. When temp equalized that sucker is not going anywhere.Haven't tried it here but has worked when press fitting bearings without a press.
How I can't get that part new or rebuild the transmission and brake assembly
Excellent and helpful video! Thank you
Todd, I have an old signature washing machine model sig60100towg. The thing has been grinding for years and finally gave out. It agitates but won't spin. Does this sound like a transmission to you. My washer looks very similar but more basic with just one knob. I believe it's from the 90's. Also the agitator just doesn't want to come out of the washer. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've looked for years for someone on RUclips with your knowledge and I'm amazed that I found it now. I figure being stuck inside nowadays is the perfect time to do some home repairs. Thanks
Really hard to say. So many things can go wrong. If it agitates then the transmission is fine. However there are some solenoids that need to switch the transmission in/out of spin/agitate so it could be that or the mechanical timer as those older machines will have contact points in the timer that need to make/break the circuit to the different solenoid engagements for the transmission. The grinding however could mean physical damage so it could be a very different problem. Nowadays it is best to just watch Facebook offer-up, local Craig's list or other local for sale sites that you can find because people are putting good machines up for sale or for fee all the time as they upgrade to the fancy front loading crap. Good luck.
Hey Todd, thanks for the reply my friend. I still loved the video. I was just figuring if it was fixable I'd give shot. Thanks again
Say I broke open the transmission found nothing was wrong. Lost a minor amount of fluid, now I need to top off and refresh seal. Best way of going about that?
+Chris Swicord Clean the and dry the surfaces and use this from my Amazon store or get it at an auto motive parts store: astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B0092LQHGY
For oil, you can use any 90 weight gear oil from automotive store but replace all the oil so you don't have two oil types mixing. The pros will order an exact Gear Case Oil for the washer such as: www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-gear-case-oil-350572-ap3072960.html
Good Luck with your repair.
how can i get a kit to repair my olympia transmission
Todd , first thanks for posting the video. I myself have a GE topload washer, recently there was a lot of scraping noise at the bottom of the washer...seems like it was out of balanced or the metal plate at the bottom had "popped" up out of place and was rubbing against the tub??? anyways it started leaking water and at first I thought it was a tub seal so I did all the work removing everything, got access to the tub, removed the agitator etc etc and the nut on the drive shaft, got all the way down to the tub seal...man was it hard to get out....had to use some wd 40 and needle nose pliers but it came out...I put the new tub seal in and put it all back together correctly and presto it still leaks......if it was rubbing against metal while running would the leak be in the outter tub or inner tub or should I replace both including the tub bearing in the bottom??? being on disability its hard to come up with the money for a new washer and the local appliance store in Mankato KS stiffed me outta $200 for essentially a piece of doop. Any ideals would help.
That would be hard to help without being there to examine the unit. I know the tub seals will leak if you don't put them in with some sealant. Put them in dry and they will leak. Maybe just use some automotive RTV gasket sealant would be fine. If the tub has a leak then you have to replace it. I guess you could take it out and fill it just under the seal and let it set to see if anything drains out. you might just have a drain hose or clamp that is bad. Or the pump has a leak or the the drain hose to the outlet is cracked. I have seen those cheap plastic exit drain hoses rub a hole and then you have a drain leak in that cheap hose that attaches to the back, if it is those are cheap.
Questions i watch this video and my washer machine wash drain the water but stop after drain the water that bearing have something to do with the problem
Todd...great video..need some help have you taken the gearcasing apart (exact same one as your brg. replacement)...my washing machine won't agitate but does spin. When I pulled up on the agitator to remove the entire shaft came out with it from within the gear case...any pics of inside gearcase. Thanks in advance
I have. There is some simple gear tracks inside. It would be serviceable if you could get the internal parts. However, I have never seen anybody sell the internal parts of the transmission. You would have to find a donor or purchase the whole assemble: www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/WH38X10002/0026/363.html
WCSE4230A0MM agitate ok but wont spin, motor check ok, turn transmition pulley by hand, turn ok in agitate direction, but only turn about 1/4 turn in spin direction then lockup wont turn any more, appreciate any help?
Thank You Todd
Very good lesson....
Hey Todd. I wrote in last year that I followed your advice and did this rebuild, with good results (thanks again).
Well, I'm now seeing a new issue.. when the washer is agitating, the tub isn't holding tight. It makes me think something needs to be addressed in the disc brake assembly. I had taken it apart recently, and thought I might have put the clutch piece back incorrectly (the part that rests on the brass bearings). But I looked again and think that isn't the problem. The brake pad looks okay, in place.. so I'm not exactly sure what the problem is yet. Don't know if you've run into this issue or by chance have any ideas. Any thought would be appreciated!
Could be the clutch assembly or slipping belt?
@9027dad Did you ever resolve this? I’m having a similar issue.
Maybe the 4 springs could be worn out that usually push the brake disc down and hold it from rotating? I guess I'll just take the whole thing apart again!..
I would agree. Maybe some grease got on the brake pad? Or something is not tight.
@@ToddFun You guessed it Todd! I haven't tested this with a load yet, but the basket is no longer rotating when the washer is off, so I expect it won't rotate during agitation. I found that the tub nut (hub nut?) was loose! Tightened it up, and it seems good to go. Yeesh.
Thanks Todd!
hey man what if you put 4 spot welds to hold the bearing in place?
Sure, just don't get it too warm and that'ed work.
my buddy from work has one of these washers in the back of his truck ive been stripping it down over the last couple days
Hi, Todd, What kind of material is the brake gasket? Do you know where I can get it? Thank you, forvideo. It's very interestant. Salutes
You might be able to look it up here: www.appliancepartspros.com/parts.html
I hope someone can
help me. I have a washer that I am unable to turn the coupler on the
transmission clockwise it will only turn counter clockwise BUT with motor and
transmission out of washer both spin freely. Since I am currently unemployed I
have to determine if its the transmission or something like the brakes dragging
or basket drive assembly. i noticed the cam has no play outside the washer but
while turning the basket drive assembly counterclockwise to get it back up into
the washer it is difficult maybe its supposed to be? Also once in the washer
there is alot of play in cam. One other thing I noticed was once the
transmission was in the coupler would spin clockwise a little bit but not
enough to turn the tub then I would hear a click and it wouldnt turn anymore
and it never turned far enough for the tub to spin. Is that click something
locking up with the brakes or in the transmission? i disassembled the brakes
took of the spring to make sure they move freely. There was no play in the
brakes so they seem okay to someone who doesnt know what they are supposed to
feel like. Also we replaced the transmission fluid with 90 wt. Ugh someone please help we have been watching
videos and searching the internet for a week. We replaced the capacitor before
figuring out it was bound up somehow. thanks in advance for any help you can
give.
I do see bolts on the center case.
mcmaster carr sells those spiral retaining rings.
2020tesla Thanks! that comes in handy. I'm sure others will also like to know that.
saludos amigo necesito su ayuda estube viendo su video y esta muy bueno claro no hablo ni entiendo el inglis pero viendo el video se entiende muy bien mi problema es ke canbie la rolinera y alme el sistema de enbrague y freno de la trasmicion pero en lo que le pongo la araña me queda frenada ke debo hacer plis
The bearing needs to be a 6205 with a 1" bore. It is an odd ball bearing but can be had. I ordered mine through Motion Industries. $33 for that sucker.
I got the correct on from Amazon for ~$5 or less if I remember. I have a link in my show notes.
Thank you Todd
Great Video! Very Detailed.
Do you have a link for the bearing? The old link in the description is no longer a webpage
amzn.to/2Svxe9N
Todd Harrison thank you very much I appreciate it. Also very informative video thanks for the info you’re the only video I can find on this problem. Also I tried to buy the bearing off a appliance parts store but they only sell the whole transmission. So thanks again for the link
Fantastic video! Thankyou so much!! Saved $$$$.
For others looking like me because their washing tub seal failed which destroyed the bearing, you cannot buy the transmission and brake assembly. They do not sell it anymore. You could look on eBay for a used assembly.
Nice job!
Didn't you get the spiral spring retention clip you said you could not source in the replacement brass disk bearing disk package?
+Fred C Dobbs No. I got a generic bearing off Amazon for ~$2. I didn't buy any special kit or package.
Sir, at 6:38, you held up a clear plastic bag with the brass disk bearings & disk plate inside that appeared to have at least one spring clip in it. Isn't that what they were?
+Fred C Dobbs In the bag where the original parts plus a ring clip I thought I could substitute for the spiral ring clip. I had cleaned the parts put them in a ziplock bag to keep from loosing them while I finished the rebuild. The clip you see in the bag didn't fit because it was a normal ring spring clip with tabs. I had to use the original spiral clips. Other viewers have noted that McMaster Carr sells those spiral retaining rings (search for spiral retaining rings at www.mcmaster.com/
TY+Todd Harrison (ToddFun)
hey Todd, can i get a new replacement brake rubber?
... i destroyed mine while replacing the bearing... everything went well except for that part...
+Goutam Sieunarine Sorry, I don't see that item for sale anyplace.
Hey thanks for the response... i think i found it.... but i'll have to order it and have it shipped to Trinidad.. here's the link to the part.. www.appliance-parts-usa.com/G-TRANSMISSION-brake-pad-fit-WH38X10002-PAD-O3A0_p_3755.html
+Goutam Sieunarine Yes, looks right. good luck.
Todd, where did you get that brake pad shown at 19:21? Having hard time finding.
Not sure any more. Try eBay for possible NOS.
@@ToddFun thanks for reply. Having really hard time finding. Used to be part no: WH01x10123 but no one has any more. You seem like a handy guy - ever use "friction material sheets" to cutout your own? I'm considering that idea. Yours in the vid definitely is not the standard oem part.
@@dallasbiggz7007 Very standard friction sheet so could get one from a "look-a-like" transmission but that is a gamble unless you can go to a used machine / servers shop and just ask if they have any that might fit.
If only a noisy barring use a dental pick to remove the grease seal move it up onto the bottom of the transmission then repack the barring with grease and push the seal back into place as you can only get to the top it may take a day or to, to work the grease into the bottom.
This unit was ran dry for a long time so it needed a new bearing. Grease alone wouldn't have worked.
Todd I want this 10 bearing
Nice work Todd ! :)
EcProjects Thanks!
+Jerome Davis Gear Case oil: www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-gear-case-oil-350572-ap3072960.html
+Jerome Davis Not sure about the size difference but the gear loop did have about the same weight as 90 weight. Not a lot of it in the one I took apart in for this video. Maybe 2 cups at most. It was yellowish / clear thick oil. If that helps.
Sir, I want this bearing
You need to make a video on how to remove the nut on a 10 year old GE washer.
I can't get the new bearing to go back on the shaft, I ruined one new bearing trying, I'm going to go to a garage that has a hydraulic press or else I have to grind the shaft down.
Make sure you are getting the correct bearing!
Bearing 6205-2RS-1
The ‘-1’ is important, it means 1 inch inner diameter
www.amazon.com/KML-6205-2RS-1-Double-Sealed-Bearing/dp/B01N1EOQIY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=6205-2RS-1&qid=1551287949&s=gateway&sr=8-4&linkCode=sl1&tag=tod0f5-20&linkId=bfd8b7ddcc5da4edb4c3460b0cef7dfe&language=en_US
www.toddfun.com/2015/06/06/replace-bearing-in-washing-machine-transmission-brake-assembly/
Great video as always Todd. I think I might have gone for a spot of Loctite 275 on the bearing though the chisel bit is a bit barbaric for me. But hey, its was a damn good fix and very entertaining. Thanks m8.
Robert Lewis Thanks Robert. Yes I would think Loctite 275 would be fine. All it needs to do is keep the bearing from moving up.
There's no brake disk in mine
Hi sir! you are a good man and awesome friend
No kidding..... $3.00 bearing and $500 in labor to replace it.... hahaha
Yeah, lots of work but makes me much happier when I can help people.
Nice fix Todd.thanks for sharing
Ver64 Glad you liked it.
I have the same problem I am going to do what u do and then tell u the result
Excellent. Thank you for sharing.
I can’t get this part anymore unless I spend 500 bucks time for a new washer
Good job!
I always pull the plastic covers on the “sealed bearing” and repack with high quality wheel bearing grease. The bearings are Chinese and they use cheap quality grease…
My only critique is you used a regular claw hammer...a brass hammer or a ball peen hammer would be safer...and a brass drift for driving the bearing back in...or better than that, use your vise and press it in.
youbecha64 yeah the steel hammer on the socket is not a good idea, when i was a kid i did the same thing but hit the edge of the socket and a chip the size of a woodruff key broke off and went straight in my hand, its still in there about 25 years later, a softer face mallet is safer
youbecha64 Good points. I'll keep that in mind on my next repair. Thanks.
Folks , good luck trying to get off the tub hub nut. Just in case someone gets the idea that if they CAN'T break it loose with the special tool and a baby sledge that they will just cut the nut somehow to get it off , I say STOP!! Been there tried that. It CAN"T be gotten off that way. The nut recesses down into the base of the inner tub and you can't get down there deep enough without damaging the inner tub base.Here are 2 tricks to get off that stubborn nut.
1. squirt some Tilex all around the nut and let sit over night. This hopefully will dissolve the minerals that are binding the nut to the tranny .WD40 etc , etc WON'T work. If TIlex doesn't work then the ONLY fool proof method I have found is
2. Get a 43mm Deep socket and an electric or pneumatic impact gun. END OF STORY!
Please note the hub nut is REVERSE THREADED. So righty loosey lefty tighty
Thanks for the tears of knowledge. Well appreciated.
Merci Todd
After messing with my 12 year old GE washer the last two weeks I learned a lot about how crappy these are made, especially this specific transmission and it's faulty design are, a little google searching finds all the posts and comments all over the web about this notorious POS GE transmission that they knew about since 1995 and have done nothing about.
My saga started with a simple minor tub leak, so I decided to buy a new seal and bearing, got those ordered, took the machine apart and found the bottom bearing on the transmission was shot, not wanting to mess with all this plus finding the bearings and parts, I bought a factory reconditioned transmission on Ebay from a big appliance outfit for $128 and a 6 mo warrantee.
I got that, put it in, and was putting the whole thing back into the cabinet when I suddenly noticed an 8" long CRACK in the cheap plastic outer tub! $75 later a new one was on my doorstep the next day, the old one was so brittle that just flexing it broke chunks out, Imagine that happening when full of water!
I get the whole shebang back in, and with 4 new rubber retainer deals for the tub, new drain hose and went to wash a load, no more leak, but then it wouldn't SPIN, I could get it to spin if I pushed the pully and "jump started" it then the motor would do it.
That motor turned free, so the bearings were fine, so I figured the starting capacitor was bad, replaced that $20- same problem! so I figured the stator on the motor maybe had some issue and it was weak, I bought a new in box OEM GE motor on Ebay for $119, but that came damaged in shipping- the aluminum housing was cracked, they issued a full refund, so I ordered another motor from another seller, meanwhile since the stator was intact I took the old motor apart, swopped the aluminum ends onto the other motor and tested it, turned just fine, spun freely, so I put that in, SAME exact problem!!! this new motor wouldn't spin even an EMPTY tub unless I first pushed the pully on it to help the motor start turning.
So that was the last straw on this POS, best I can figure is the transmission is too tight internally or something and putting too much of a load on the motor (either the old or the new one- same thing happened) which gets VERY hot- you cant even briefly touch the metal case of the motor after just one small "light" wash cycle.
It otherwise agitates just fine.
I bought a new machine, told the transmission seller I wanted to return that item as it appears defective, so I got my money refunded on that, and I calncelled the other motor and got a refund on that, so far I'm out $177 I can't recover.
This machine's transmission design sucks, you get one tub leak and that's pretty much the end of the transmission bearing and probably even the motor, what pisses me off is this exact transmission is notorious for having a defective design, with many people reporting the brake fails, and the bearing fails. Had I read that before last night I'd have junked the thing- no point repairing a defective design that will have the same problems again.
You have to expect bearings to fail. NOTHING lasts forever. It happens on cars, trucks...anything that is used wears out even on Toyotas.
FYI- There are many videos out there that address the bearing issue. Such as putting a CV boot above the bearing in case the tub seal leaks water so it will not get on the bearing. I do know the turtle shaped brake disc can crack, but they are still usable. Mine is still intact after 25 years.
You will not find a transmission that well built in a new machine. With all the plastic they use nowadays.
@@bobsoft I agree with you that this transmission is fairly well built - that is it will probably last 10 years under normal washing conditions. I do rebuild these with outsourced parts. Removing the tub from then transmission shaft sometimes takes HEAT. One nice feature of these washers is they fill with water over the clothes and wash the clothes very well. The washers built today are another story. Good luck trying to get 10 years of trouble free washing with newer style washers.
Hardcore!
This vdeo
hello todd. It is a nice video. Are you a electronic o mechanic gay
+Engie Borges both as needed. But only as good as my current skills which are not expert in either.
+Jerome Davis Yes
Buy a Maytag top loader for 450 bucks 10 yr warranty on transmission and hard wear with a one yr full warranty from seller delivered installed and old piece of shit removed. All that trouble only to watch the next malfunction happen. And if you can spend another 120 you can buy a full 5 yr warranty. If the 5 yr's passes without using the warranty you get your choice of a 60 dollar refund or you can extend the 5 yr warranty for another 5 yr's.
you're going to need that warranty cause the new maytags are JUNK.