Thanks for the video! After watching it, we took two of these transmissions apart, and replaced their bearings. Part number 6006-2RS 1(2 Rubber Seals) for our application. They are only press fitted. We do not believe they ever had any adhesive. They are certainly NOT "welded" except by rust You can DIY by first cleaning and sanding the shaft above the bearing. Once its CLEAN, use a light oil, like 3 in 1 (WD-40 is a rust inhibitor) Walking first the flange, followed by the bearing via small hammer blows with a small flat chisel or large screwdriver; keep rotating the shaft so as to drive the flange and or bearing as straight as possible to avoid binding. Don't be afraid to hit it, after all if you don't succeed it's going to the recycle center! Keep in mind, any dirt / rust will keep you from extracting the bearing and flange. You only need to save and reuse the flat metal flange. So, feel free to cut the old bearing off with a grinder, Dremel or even a hacksaw. As simple as the construction of this junk seems, make sure you photograph the position of the flange/bearing, so as to insert the new bearing down to the correct position. Also make sure to Mark how low on the shaft it seats. An easy way to drive the new bearing / flange straight, is to get a scrap piece of steel tubing only slightly larger than the shaft diameter, and use it, and your trusty hammer to drive the new bearing, and the flange into position. Easy! Even if you buy a piece of tubing at i.e. the Depot, it's still cheaper than a new transmission. Good Luck! The only parts not repairable are the plastic planetary gears in the plastic case, as I could not find replacements. If anyone can find these parts, please let us know. We did service them by replacing the oil in the cup, and resealing with silicone gasket maker.
A few people have asked about the rubber seals above the top bearing at the top of the transmission case at the bottom of the shaft, anyone have info on where they can be purchased or a part number. I’m assuming they will be damaged in order to remove the shaft and top bearing from the casing.
@@davidwilkinson9385 I use transmission seal 91939 for the top its a bit taller because it outer circumference needs to be a bit smaller but it works -no more water in the transmission..... Tub Seal W10324647
Thank you. You saved me from thinking I could fix it. Had a customer bring in the identical machine. It was leaking water from the tub seal. Unfortunately she let it go for a long time. That was the original complaint. When I ran the machine prior to tear down, the transmission was making a racket. When I pulled the agitator off, I noticed side to side, up and down movement. When I flipped it over to remove the transmission I wanted to cry. The screws were frozen on the shifter, the connections were all full of green and brown corrosion. I finally got the trans out and turned the shaft. It was like it was jumping gears. Very sad how poorly this stuff is made. Needless to say, she gave me the machine for parts because the cost was prohibitive. Thanks again for a great presentation. Keep them coming.
Good day 😊 i am a macgyver i madr it happend and repaired my trasmission im sry dont have photos and vids to show but its my job atm and i love it there is nothing that i ever turn down for repairs atm im doing direct drive tranny 😊 trinidad its to expensive to buy parts and stuff .....❤
Thanks dude! I've been wanting to open one of those up. I figured the same on those bearings. I onlybdo bearing and seal kits on Speed Queen. Also, SQ transmissions are very much rebuildable but the gear oil is some nasty stuff. I can bring almost any classic too load Whirlpool direct drive washer back to life. Their tub seal is still like five bucks lol. Most people go through washer dryer phases. The government told everyone to go green with HE and trade in their water wasting machines. So many people went to frontloaders. But, they get moldy, don't clean well and take over an hour to wash a load. I meet so many people that are happy to get rid of front loaders, GE, Samsung, LG, Bosch and other disposable junk for a classic Whirlpool top loader.
@Jeff Stone sorry I didn't see your comment til now. But, you can lay down a Whirlpool brand washer on its back and look at the transmission. It will be cast iron and have a big square motor attached, and then a large pump attached to the motor.
I just did the top bearing in one of these today. Took a bit of finesse to get it off and save the stainless steel seal sleeve above the bearing. 6006RS bearing. I need to make a video of this but there are some tricks that make it easier. Never going to buy another of these complete units at $80 to $200 again!
You did this right, what a great breakdown and insight on typical manufacturing practice - this saves a lot of heart rending wishful thinking on repair and replacement of the parts. Whew!!! what a bunch of effort you saved - yes I blame the machine engineers and cheers to you for doing this - great video.
As others have said, that collar is press fit only, so once the rust is cleaned off, pop the shaft in the deep feezer overnight. In the morning, fire up the propane torch and quickly heat the collar up only, while tapping it down with a punch or screwdriver. I only had the bearing race left on the shaft, so tapping on it with the round side of a mechanics hammer got it off in no time!
It does work to remove the bearing on the shaft. There is a coupler pressed on the shaft after the bearing. It take a lot of hammering but it works. I did it today.
Honestly the best video I’ve seen about this. THANK YOU SO MUCH from just an average dad trying to fix his washer so his wife will continue to do his laundry.
Good video on the internals of the gearbox. Never seen the inside broken down like that before and i have been working on these since they came out in 2010. They are 5 year machines but very easy to work on. The part site you showed was not listing the real part number. I don't like any site that gives a ap number. No Manufacturer uses a part number that starts with AP. Almost all whirlpool parts start with W
Yeah I need to get a better explanation of where to look on the website. You do have to click on the product and there’s a manufacture part number listed underneath the other number. They always like to hide them. Lol
@@WasherDryerMoney Look above for details. I have covered everything with all details included. The seal, the bearing, the sleeve how to take them out and install them. You can get the seal and the bearing at Amazon and Ebay. But the bearing you can get them anywhere
You have to sand the shaft and remove the race and the bearing together from the long side. Where the bearing sits is hatched and can't go futher down the shaft when replacing. Some machine shops have a tall bearing press that can take it out, I on the other hand put the shaft loosely in a vice and put a block of wood on the other side of the shaft and tap out the bearing and race. To replace, tap the bearing and then the race with a pipe slightly bigger than the shaft. Should be noted though that what can cause the bearing to go bad in the first place is a leaking tub seal, which should be replaced as well.
Take a dremel with a metal cutting blade and go around the top edge of the race (as that is where it is pressed in) about 1/4 of an inch or less and cut it. Then make a verticle cut, grab a chisel and snap it out. Then you can place two angle irons parallel to each other and place the bearing on it. With the angle iron secured on a plateform so it won't move. Grab a 2x4 and place it on the tube/shaft and hit it with a hammer. The 2x4 protects that rubbe seal up there plus protects the shaft. Out will come the bearing and the race. However, at times the bearing gets rusted in their big time. In tha case you simply resort to the same technic as the scoring the race. You don't have to cut off the outer collar of the bearing but simply score it good with the dremel. Two of them, one half way opposite the other. Grab a hammer and hit it, being hardened metal, it will break and snap out. You can see the videos of people doing this on youtube when a bearing doesn't want to come out. Then you simply remove the ball bearings and do the same with the inside collar, it is where the rested frozen part is. With that part you simply use a chisel after you score it. Either it will break or it will turn and then you can walk it out with a channel lock. Tub seal part number ( w10324647 w10006371 Ap4567772) Size of bearing (30x55x13) Race replacement ( 1 1/4 chrome pipe extension at your plumbing store. Drain pipe for the sink). The shortest one will make 5 to 6 of them. They are rust free and exact size. Cut them about 1-1 1/8" inch long. File the cut edge if the seal goes over it although it won't matter. The edge should stick out off the seal and the seal goes over and on its smooth surface. The purpose of the race is not to keep the bearing in place but to accomodate the rubber seal. You can clean where it goes with rubbing alcohol and then put some crazy glue for extra goodness, although not needed before pushing the new homemade race in place. ruclips.net/video/BIMt0WGmwxQ/видео.html
@@alchemy1 I have a problem with water leaking between shaft and chrome pipe. I don't know what to do. chrome pipe extension does not fit as tight. do I need more crazy glue or silicone?
@@barrylink6378 Ideally you would want to cut the chrome pipe with a plumbing pipe cutter. Why?] Because a pipe cutter's blade going round and round the chrome pipe causes the that cutting lip sort cone shaped if you know what I mean. So, when you feed the chrome pipe, you feed the non-cut straight side first and the cut cone shapped facing up. The cone end as you can picture goes tightly over the shaft. Well, what you certainly can do now is to fill it with Loctite glue gel. If that is where it is leaking from. The gel is thick and not watery which is what is needed. That should fix the issue.
I have been able to successfully replace this bearing about 10 times in different machines. It is a pain but it can be done. Also the metal sleeve above the top bearing is removable which you have to slide that up the shaft in order to replace the top bearing. Usually the top bearing is the only one worn out.
Glad you liked it. I hate that I couldn’t get that top bearing off and replaced. Even if I could it’s extremely time consuming to get to that point. I’m not sure it would be worth it.
I replaced the upper bearing about 2 years ago. The tranny I did was from a model washer that had a wash plate instead of an agitator so the transmission output shaft was shorter than the one in this video, so I was able to pull the bearing using a long jaw puller I had. Here are some key points if you are looking to do this job. 1. You MUST disassemble the gear box and take out the solid agitator shaft. If you try to pull the upper bearing off with a puller, with the gear box fully assembled, the puller will drive the agitator shaft down an possibly right through the bottom of the plastic gear box housing. It will then be time to punch out and go home..lol 2. Once you have done step 1, you MUST put a mark on the outer, hollow shaft, to mark where the bottom of the bearing is located so that you can place the new bearing in the same spot on the shaft. There is no "stop" on the shaft so you won't know where to place the new bearing unless you mark the shaft. I used a hacksaw blade to score a light mark below the bearing. 3.You MUST remove all the rust and any other imperfections on the shaft, so that nothing will restrict the removal of the old bearing when you pull it off. 4. The sleeve he is pointing to here 6:12 , often has a groove worn into it by the tub seal. The seal then leaks water into the bearing. That is the reason you are here. If your sleeve has no groove, consider yourself lucky and clean the sleeve with some Scotch Brite. If your sleeve has a groove worn into it then don't even think about sanding the groove out. You will sand off so much of the sleeve metal that the new seal will not have a tight fit, not to mention that the sanding and polishing process would have to be done perfectly or you will have a leak again in no time. Just Clean the sleeve with Scotch Brite and count on having another leak again down the road 5. When you pull the old bearing off the shaft, the sleeve above it will come along also. That brings up the question of how did I reinstall the sleeve. 6. After I installed the new bearing, I heated the sleeve with a torch. That expanded the sleeve and it slid onto the shaft easily. Once it cooled, it shrunk to a very tight fit. 7. I used 1/4 inch aluminum blind rivets from harbor freight to put the 2 outer halves of the transmission housing back together. So when you drill out the original solid rivets use a 1/4 inch drill bit, or a bit size equal to whatever size screws you will be using, if you don't use rivets. It's critical that the 2 halves line up as they originally did so use common sense before you haphazardly start drilling out the original rivets. Finally, If you don't have a puller with jaws long enough to pull the old bearing off, you could use a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut the old bearing off. The sleeve above the bearing will make that a little tricky. To prevent cutting into the sleeve I would try to heat the sleeve and remove it, before cutting the bearing. Again , make sure you remove any rust on the shaft that will prevent the sleeve from coming off. PS- After drilling out the rivets on the housing, you will find it very difficult, if not impossible , to separate the upper housing half from the bearing. I heated the lip on the housing then used 2 screw drivers, 180 degrees apart on the housing , to pry the two housing halves apart. The lower bearing replacement should be easily accomplished using the info I just provided for the upper bearing so I won't go into that. This post is long enough already. I've never seen the lower bearing go bad btw. GOOD LUCK!!
Thanks for the video, shows what I want to see. My question is why my shaft that is connected to the wash plate comes off, it's so loose I can pull the wash plate and the shaft at once. Is there a way of fixing it?? Thanks again
Great video! Thank you! I came here looking for an answer to the super loud scream/ screech that my washer made when I ran the Auto-diagnostic mode. It went through every step fine, but when it got the the wash-spin mode it made the loudest grinding scream I have ever heard. then it started spinning. I figure it's the clutch mechanism not engaging properly, but I also wonder if it's a broken gear in the gear box. (Your video gives me an idea of what is in the gear box by the way. which is super helpful.) any insight would be great! I appreciate your time!
if yours is one of the machines with a plastic motor belt pulley check make sure the motor pulley has not striped its internal splines binding its rotation to the motor shaft . I have seen that happen the torque necessary to spin makes the motor shaft slip inside the pulleys splines and it makes a loud screech sound. exactly what you are saying..
Thank you very much dude i am also trying to repair my washer transmission, seems the bearing is going bad and locking up will update if i get any progress.. :-) and that's why we need to support the right to repair....
Hi, Just starting Watching your Videos which are very informative for someone like me that is going to try to Repair Machines in my area of Massachusetts,, I was just thinking in all those Dryers/Washers that Home Depot ,Lowes ect Sell each day and someone has to Service there Appliance when they break $$$$$ You are doing a Great Service with showing us what you learned !!! Should i get a small Trailer i can hook up to my truck to pick up unwanted free broken machines ? I am very Handy and know how to use a Multi Meter and will give this a Shot!!! Just can you give me idea of what my Service Call Should be ? I called a Service Company in the Boston,Ma area and they say they charge $150 Service Call to work on High End Appliances !!! Wow .. God Bless and keep these. great Videos Coming !!!! Joe
I worked out for a long time with just my pick up truck. I got a ramp and a dolly and that was pretty much it. So you can definitely start off a truck but Would probably be a great upgrade later. The best way to figure out what you can charge is asking some service guys in a Facebook group. A lot of times they’ll be a local to your area and one of those groups and they can give you the lowdown on exactly what you can charge. Check out the Facebook group “appliance apprentice group” Let me know if you have any other questions.
Awesome. I got a hold of one that did not have anywhere near the same amount of rust so some are definitely way easier than others to get that bearing off.
This is a very common problem, I know people who have some of these VMW machines with the same issue, I’ve seen it in an Amana NTW4516FW, my own Whirlpool WTW4900BW0, and a Kenmore top loader. Very common problem on this type of machine.
My brother came over yesterday and we tried to get off that metal. Hit it with a big sledgehammer and flat head. It’s still didn’t come off I’m pretty sure it’s welded on or glued.
@@WasherDryerMoney Crimped on maybe (crushed). If glued, heating might release (soften) the “glue”. My guess, that ring my be crimped on. At this point, destructive dissembling may be the way to find the next clue. Maybe cut through that sleeve with a grinding wheel, then chisel off the pieces. Inquiring minds wanna know. Being able to replace that bearing may be a moneymaker for someone. Added: is failure of that bearing the first major malfunction for many machines?
I managed to replacevthat top bearing on the shaft. Cut the welding and removed the flange on the bottom. Removed old bearing, fitted new bearing. Lined shaft and flange in the lathe and rewelded. Riveted housing back together. Probably not worth it if you don't have access to a lathe.
No no, There is much simpler way. That sleeve above the bearing comes off without any problems at all. Look above at my comment what is up and how it is done, and where and how to replace them.
Thank you for all your videos. Very informative. Going to give rehabbing washers and dryers, part time, a go, picked up my first dryer this morning. Ever try to rebuild a LG transmission? Thanks again!
Good luck with your dryer. LG’s are not extremely popular in my area. At least I don’t get them very often. If I get one and it’s got a bad transmission I might break it down. I love to figure out how things work.
@@WasherDryerMoney I am known to tear things apart to see if I can get a better understanding of them sometimes. Just a few days ago, I tore into some suspension rod springs to see about making them stronger by dealing with the foam inside the plastic pieces. Cut the first one or two in half. Then decided another way to experiment with getting the moving plastic parts more grip.
Stay away from LG,Samsung,GE,Criterion and front load washers in general. If you want to make any kind of money, stick with Whirlpool direct drive standard washers and dryers.
That’s a good idea. The obvious answer across-the-board for most Appliance Repair guys is the speed queen. But they are expensive. If I’m going used I would get a older direct drive washer.
This is infuriating. It would cost them 1 more dollar to make this serviceable, probably not even that. It just makes you appreciate a nice old direct-drive machine.
@@lilolme69 lol, they make much more money if it is not serviceable, as we need to buy the whole transmission instead of 2 bearings. and remember they were originally serviceable, they spent "millions" to make it Unserviceable when they made the "new" designs....
Thank you so much for your information. I have that exact transmission and the shaft bearing is totally loose and wobbly. Now I know I have to get a new transmission instead of trying to replace the bearing.
I dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Forest Milo thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
I guess I'll be replacing the seals & bearings. I don't have the cash to buy a new one so I've been keeping this one running by watching RUclips videos 😂 I've replaced actuator a while back & the drain pump a few days ago. It didn't want to drain and was leaking I thought it was drain pump issue but it's still leaking so now I'm guessing the leak is the seal and it's been making a sound so I might as well replace the bearings as well. Can't lie tho this looks a bit intimidating. I really hope mine is welded on it's a diff one so let's hope.
At 6:11 showing the bottom of the bearing and what looks like the top of the piece it looks like it is pressed down to, is a thumbnail like groove. I wonder if you could clean the rust off the shaft then use a straight edge tool to separate the bearing from that piece then work it off. I have a few that need bearings. Don’t think I am going to go through that.
Yeah that was my main take away. It’s just too much trouble even if the top bearing came off easily. If you spend the drum and it makes any type of grinding noise it’s not worth fixing in my opinion.
Just took apart my transmission as per this video. The stainless steel collar for the seal on mine came off with abit of light hammering. I pop riveted the transmission back together with new bearings and it seems to be functioning.
It’s always difficult to sell a single dryer that’s a weird color. If it was white most people would not care because their washer is more than likely white. The market will tell I would just lower the price every week until you start getting hits. Free market you know LOL
May I present solution to the bearing problem? First know that it is the top bearing that goes out and not the bottom, 99% of the time, the one you can't get it because of that sleeve above it. It is that bearing that goes bad as it is right under the rubber seal. So now that is clear. Okay second, most of these so called gear boxes don't have them holes you drove the nut driver through. But that is not big deal, you drill a couple of hole with a drill bit. That solves that. Just need 2 hole or even one hole is good enough. Okay I will start from where you lift off. Clean off the rust with a sand paper, clean it good, on that metal tube that the bearing and the bearing sleeve is on it. Then just spray some lubricant on the tube. Place the bearing above the jaw of a vise or whatever and hit the top of the metal tube with a hammer by placing a 2x4 in between. The race/sleave and the bearing will come out, no problem. The sleeve is not welded or glues or anything. It is pressed in at its top edge. If you look close you can see it. I have repaired at least dozen of these. Clean the housing and install the new bearing ( 30x55x13mm, you can get them anywhere). Pounce the bearing until it seats. It will seat half way up, It won't go all the way to the top, so don't dry it. Here is the seal: (Washing machine tub seal w10324647 w10006371 Ap4567772) Now comes the creative part. How are you going to install the sleeve and where would you get them? Aha. Ready? They are 1 1/4" diameter, brass or some sort of rust resistent metal. So this is what you do. You go the plumbing joint and buy a chrom pipe extension. They are located at the sink drain section. They are exact same size and the exact right wall thickness and no rest. One extension is enough pipe to repair 5-10 usage. You cut it to size, about 1 1/4 long. Before you feed it in place, clean where it goes with rubber alcohol or so and put crazy super glue there. feed the new cut pip in place there and leave it for about an hour. It won't go no where.Make sure the pip is long enough but not too long (otherwise it will interfere with the basket) because the rubber seal goes around that sleeve. Your transmission will purr like a kittten. Cheers.
@@brucestevenson6085 It is difficult to video tape it while actually working at it, being one person. I don't know why I left this crucial detail out. There are times that the bearing is rusted good and it is pretty difficult to take it out using the method I have described. Since nobody cares about the sleave or the bearing, use a dremel with cut off wheel and simply score the sleave vertically. Score it enough so you can use a chisel and a hammer and hit it and it will open up and give. You can then just slide up and remove it, using a channel lock or whatever. Comes the bearing that is stuck on stupid and rusted good. No problem. Take the dremel with the metal cut off blade and score the outer part of the bearing. Score it at two parts, 180 degrees, one opposite the other. Bearings are hardened metal. So once scored good, take a hammer and smack on it good and the bearing outer collar just snaps and falls out. You can see videos of these on RUclips how stubborn bearings are removed. The littler ball bearings justt comes off of course. Now the inner part is what is stuck on the transmission tube. Same deal with that, score it like you did with outter collar. Except you can't hit it with a hammer. Use a chisel and a hammer. Just place the chisel on the score line and hit it. If it doesen't just break and snap out, it will loosen very good. In that case you just take a channel lock or whatever and just walk it up and out. ruclips.net/video/BIMt0WGmwxQ/видео.html
@@brucestevenson6085 You can see this guys work better with a closer view. He just cuts it through. I am a little impatient. Nonetheless the idea is clear. Also the bearing he is cutting seem to be more giving in my perspective. He also didn't cut the inner race at two places for some reason or it would have just snapped out as the outer part. Although I haven't tried it but I can bet that if you heat that outer brass sleave with propane or acytelene torch, it will expand enough where you can just take it out and then reuse it. I am gonna have to try that. ruclips.net/video/zEKb6a_StFg/видео.html
It’s been too long since I made the video. I don’t have that transmission sitting around anymore. I believe it’s the same as the bottom one as far as the number that I showed in the video.
Do you have any part number(s) for those transmissions? From there we could arrive at a cost. From there, might it be cost effective to repair with upgraded bearings and replace oil with grease. When I need a transmission, I may be willing to pay more for an upgraded rebuilt one.
There’s only a few types of those transmissions. The big difference is the shaft in the middle is small for the low profile agitator version. I’m not sure there’s anyone making heavy duty versions of these transmissions. The video I did on removing the bearings from this transmission concluded with me thinking it was way too much trouble to get the top bearing off. Hi have heard there are a few guys that have gotten days off but their opinion was pretty similar to mine it’s a lot of time. You can look up a lot of prices for these transmissions on eBay to give you an idea anywhere from $100-$200.
I believe it’s gear oil, but I’m not 100% sure on that. They’re not really made to be serviceable as I mentioned in the video. GE use grease and I think that’s a better idea because it’s less likely to start leaking and fail compared to any oil.
@@WasherDryerMoney thanks for the response! And thanks for your video it saved my washing machine. One question about the transmission shaft. I guess that it is normal for it to be exposed to water hence why the tub seal is right below it?
Not hard if you have the right tools. Sand paper to clean the rust. Torch to heat up the bearing to expand it. And a press to press it out the bearing. Not something everyone has in there arsenal.
I SUGGEST TO RE-GREASE ALL BEARING WITH MOLY GREASE or Lucas red and tacky EVEN NEW ONES UNLESS YOU BUY A GOOD BRAND SUCK AS SKF KOYO . THE CHINA BEARING NEED BETTER GREASE AS THEY USE CLEAR JUNK IN THEM PARDON CAPS BUTTON STUCK ON
You should message me because I had about the same problem but what I did I got a torch and heat it up then pound it out and it didn’t work for me I can show you some pictures if you send me a link
Maybe I should reword that title. In my good months hi make $8000 refurbishing appliances. My shop is a two car garage at my house. I guess technically it’s kind of free. LOL I’ll work on that title.
@@iand2692 I sell a lot of washers and dryers and 99.99999999% of the time I pass if they are not white. And for the record..... DO NOT try and repaint it white. What a mess I ended up with and in the end, I had to strip all the white paint off. It looked like hell! lmao
@@WasherDryerMoney hey you're welcome. Thank you for the very informative video. Got me right where I needed to be right away for my problem, rather than chasing my tail for an extended period of time while I try to figure out the issue. Saved me a bunch of time and probably a few dollars to actually. Super appreciate the video
Thanks for the video! After watching it, we took two of these transmissions apart, and replaced their bearings. Part number 6006-2RS 1(2 Rubber Seals) for our application. They are only press fitted. We do not believe they ever had any adhesive. They are certainly NOT "welded" except by rust You can DIY by first cleaning and sanding the shaft above the bearing. Once its CLEAN, use a light oil, like 3 in 1 (WD-40 is a rust inhibitor) Walking first the flange, followed by the bearing via small hammer blows with a small flat chisel or large screwdriver; keep rotating the shaft so as to drive the flange and or bearing as straight as possible to avoid binding. Don't be afraid to hit it, after all if you don't succeed it's going to the recycle center! Keep in mind, any dirt / rust will keep you from extracting the bearing and flange. You only need to save and reuse the flat metal flange. So, feel free to cut the old bearing off with a grinder, Dremel or even a hacksaw. As simple as the construction of this junk seems, make sure you photograph the position of the flange/bearing, so as to insert the new bearing down to the correct position. Also make sure to Mark how low on the shaft it seats. An easy way to drive the new bearing / flange straight, is to get a scrap piece of steel tubing only slightly larger than the shaft diameter, and use it, and your trusty hammer to drive the new bearing, and the flange into position. Easy! Even if you buy a piece of tubing at i.e. the Depot, it's still cheaper than a new transmission. Good Luck! The only parts not repairable are the plastic planetary gears in the plastic case, as I could not find replacements. If anyone can find these parts, please let us know. We did service them by replacing the oil in the cup, and resealing with silicone gasket maker.
do you have the link for the Rubber Seal in this video ruclips.net/video/WF5V1Dijsiw/видео.html
Did you replace the tub seal? What is the part number
@@spicky2966did you happen to get the part #s for the rubber seals?
A few people have asked about the rubber seals above the top bearing at the top of the transmission case at the bottom of the shaft, anyone have info on where they can be purchased or a part number. I’m assuming they will be damaged in order to remove the shaft and top bearing from the casing.
@@davidwilkinson9385 I use transmission seal 91939 for the top its a bit taller because it outer circumference needs to be a bit smaller but it works -no more water in the transmission..... Tub Seal W10324647
Thank you. You saved me from thinking I could fix it. Had a customer bring in the identical machine. It was leaking water from the tub seal. Unfortunately she let it go for a long time. That was the original complaint. When I ran the machine prior to tear down, the transmission was making a racket. When I pulled the agitator off, I noticed side to side, up and down movement. When I flipped it over to remove the transmission I wanted to cry. The screws were frozen on the shifter, the connections were all full of green and brown corrosion. I finally got the trans out and turned the shaft. It was like it was jumping gears. Very sad how poorly this stuff is made. Needless to say, she gave me the machine for parts because the cost was prohibitive. Thanks again for a great presentation. Keep them coming.
Good day 😊 i am a macgyver i madr it happend and repaired my trasmission im sry dont have photos and vids to show but its my job atm and i love it there is nothing that i ever turn down for repairs atm im doing direct drive tranny 😊 trinidad its to expensive to buy parts and stuff .....❤
Searched everywhere to find a video of exactly what you explained. Thank you.
Thanks dude! I've been wanting to open one of those up. I figured the same on those bearings. I onlybdo bearing and seal kits on Speed Queen. Also, SQ transmissions are very much rebuildable but the gear oil is some nasty stuff. I can bring almost any classic too load Whirlpool direct drive washer back to life. Their tub seal is still like five bucks lol. Most people go through washer dryer phases. The government told everyone to go green with HE and trade in their water wasting machines. So many people went to frontloaders. But, they get moldy, don't clean well and take over an hour to wash a load. I meet so many people that are happy to get rid of front loaders, GE, Samsung, LG, Bosch and other disposable junk for a classic Whirlpool top loader.
Direct drive Whirlpool washer will always be king of the washers. Dependable, affordable and cleans clothes fast.
@@WasherDryerMoney How do we know which washers are direct drive?
@Jeff Stone sorry I didn't see your comment til now. But, you can lay down a Whirlpool brand washer on its back and look at the transmission. It will be cast iron and have a big square motor attached, and then a large pump attached to the motor.
I just did the top bearing in one of these today. Took a bit of finesse to get it off and save the stainless steel seal sleeve above the bearing. 6006RS bearing. I need to make a video of this but there are some tricks that make it easier. Never going to buy another of these complete units at $80 to $200 again!
You did this right, what a great breakdown and insight on typical manufacturing practice - this saves a lot of heart rending wishful thinking on repair and replacement of the parts. Whew!!! what a bunch of effort you saved - yes I blame the machine engineers and cheers to you for doing this - great video.
As others have said, that collar is press fit only, so once the rust is cleaned off, pop the shaft in the deep feezer overnight. In the morning, fire up the propane torch and quickly heat the collar up only, while tapping it down with a punch or screwdriver. I only had the bearing race left on the shaft, so tapping on it with the round side of a mechanics hammer got it off in no time!
Interesting thanks.
It does work to remove the bearing on the shaft. There is a coupler pressed on the shaft after the bearing. It take a lot of hammering but it works. I did it today.
any photos pls
Honestly the best video I’ve seen about this. THANK YOU SO MUCH from just an average dad trying to fix his washer so his wife will continue to do his laundry.
Glad to help
Good video on the internals of the gearbox. Never seen the inside broken down like that before and i have been working on these since they came out in 2010. They are 5 year machines but very easy to work on.
The part site you showed was not listing the real part number. I don't like any site that gives a ap number. No Manufacturer uses a part number that starts with AP. Almost all whirlpool parts start with W
Yeah I need to get a better explanation of where to look on the website. You do have to click on the product and there’s a manufacture part number listed underneath the other number. They always like to hide them. Lol
@@WasherDryerMoney Look above for details. I have covered everything with all details included. The seal, the bearing, the sleeve how to take them out and install them. You can get the seal and the bearing at Amazon and Ebay. But the bearing you can get them anywhere
You have to sand the shaft and remove the race and the bearing together from the long side. Where the bearing sits is hatched and can't go futher down the shaft when replacing. Some machine shops have a tall bearing press that can take it out, I on the other hand put the shaft loosely in a vice and put a block of wood on the other side of the shaft and tap out the bearing and race. To replace, tap the bearing and then the race with a pipe slightly bigger than the shaft.
Should be noted though that what can cause the bearing to go bad in the first place is a leaking tub seal, which should be replaced as well.
Take a dremel with a metal cutting blade and go around the top edge of the race (as that is where it is pressed in) about 1/4 of an inch or less and cut it. Then make a verticle cut, grab a chisel and snap it out. Then you can place two angle irons parallel to each other and place the bearing on it. With the angle iron secured on a plateform so it won't move. Grab a 2x4 and place it on the tube/shaft and hit it with a hammer. The 2x4 protects that rubbe seal up there plus protects the shaft. Out will come the bearing and the race.
However, at times the bearing gets rusted in their big time. In tha case you simply resort to the same technic as the scoring the race.
You don't have to cut off the outer collar of the bearing but simply score it good with the dremel. Two of them, one half way opposite the other. Grab a hammer and hit it, being hardened metal, it will break and snap out. You can see the videos of people doing this on youtube when a bearing doesn't want to come out.
Then you simply remove the ball bearings and do the same with the inside collar, it is where the rested frozen part is.
With that part you simply use a chisel after you score it. Either it will break or it will turn and then you can walk it out with a channel lock.
Tub seal part number ( w10324647 w10006371 Ap4567772)
Size of bearing (30x55x13)
Race replacement ( 1 1/4 chrome pipe extension at your plumbing store. Drain pipe for the sink). The shortest one will make 5 to 6 of them. They are rust free and exact size. Cut them about 1-1 1/8" inch long. File the cut edge if the seal goes over it although it won't matter. The edge should stick out off the seal and the seal goes over and on its smooth surface. The purpose of the race is not to keep the bearing in place but to accomodate the rubber seal.
You can clean where it goes with rubbing alcohol and then put some crazy glue for extra goodness, although not needed before pushing the new homemade race in place.
ruclips.net/video/BIMt0WGmwxQ/видео.html
omg people, just use a cut off wheel to take the bearing off.
@@alchemy1 I have a problem with water leaking between shaft and chrome pipe. I don't know what to do. chrome pipe extension does not fit as tight. do I need more crazy glue or silicone?
@@barrylink6378 Ideally you would want to cut the chrome pipe with a plumbing pipe cutter. Why?]
Because a pipe cutter's blade going round and round the chrome pipe causes the that cutting lip sort cone shaped if you know what I mean.
So, when you feed the chrome pipe, you feed the non-cut straight side first and the cut cone shapped facing up. The cone end as you can picture goes tightly over the shaft.
Well, what you certainly can do now is to fill it with Loctite glue gel. If that is where it is leaking from.
The gel is thick and not watery which is what is needed.
That should fix the issue.
@@alchemy1 thanks
I have been able to successfully replace this bearing about 10 times in different machines. It is a pain but it can be done. Also the metal sleeve above the top bearing is removable which you have to slide that up the shaft in order to replace the top bearing. Usually the top bearing is the only one worn out.
Thank you for this video!! Answered questions no one else has addressed.
Glad you liked it. I hate that I couldn’t get that top bearing off and replaced. Even if I could it’s extremely time consuming to get to that point. I’m not sure it would be worth it.
I replaced the upper bearing about 2 years ago. The tranny I did was from a model washer that had a wash plate instead of an agitator so the transmission output shaft was shorter than the one in this video, so I was able to pull the bearing using a long jaw puller I had.
Here are some key points if you are looking to do this job.
1. You MUST disassemble the gear box and take out the solid agitator shaft. If you try to pull the upper bearing off with a puller, with the gear box fully assembled, the puller will drive the agitator shaft down an possibly right through the bottom of the plastic gear box housing. It will then be time to punch out and go home..lol
2. Once you have done step 1, you MUST put a mark on the outer, hollow shaft, to mark where the bottom of the bearing is located so that you can place the new bearing in the same spot on the shaft. There is no "stop" on the shaft so you won't know where to place the new bearing unless you mark the shaft. I used a hacksaw blade to score a light mark below the bearing.
3.You MUST remove all the rust and any other imperfections on the shaft, so that nothing will restrict the removal of the old bearing when you pull it off.
4. The sleeve he is pointing to here 6:12 , often has a groove worn into it by the tub seal. The seal then leaks water into the bearing. That is the reason you are here. If your sleeve has no groove, consider yourself lucky and clean the sleeve with some Scotch Brite. If your sleeve has a groove worn into it then don't even think about sanding the groove out. You will sand off so much of the sleeve metal that the new seal will not have a tight fit, not to mention that the sanding and polishing process would have to be done perfectly or you will have a leak again in no time.
Just Clean the sleeve with Scotch Brite and count on having another leak again down the road
5. When you pull the old bearing off the shaft, the sleeve above it will come along also. That brings up the question of how did I reinstall the sleeve.
6. After I installed the new bearing, I heated the sleeve with a torch. That expanded the sleeve and it slid onto the shaft easily. Once it cooled, it shrunk to a very tight fit.
7. I used 1/4 inch aluminum blind rivets from harbor freight to put the 2 outer halves of the transmission housing back together. So when you drill out the original solid rivets use a 1/4 inch drill bit, or a bit size equal to whatever size screws you will be using, if you don't use rivets. It's critical that the 2 halves line up as they originally did so use common sense before you haphazardly start drilling out the original rivets.
Finally, If you don't have a puller with jaws long enough to pull the old bearing off, you could use a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut the old bearing off. The sleeve above the bearing will make that a little tricky. To prevent cutting into the sleeve I would try to heat the sleeve and remove it, before cutting the bearing. Again , make sure you remove any rust on the shaft that will prevent the sleeve from coming off.
PS- After drilling out the rivets on the housing, you will find it very difficult, if not impossible , to separate the upper housing half from the bearing. I heated the lip on the housing then used 2 screw drivers, 180 degrees apart on the housing , to pry the two housing halves apart.
The lower bearing replacement should be easily accomplished using the info I just provided for the upper bearing so I won't go into that. This post is long enough already. I've never seen the lower bearing go bad btw.
GOOD LUCK!!
Thanks for the info
Can you give me a part number for that upper bearing and I would love for you to post a video of this ! Thank you and I just subscribed !
@@bruce7259how you planning in putting it back together correctly? I think its part out time or replacement time
Where did you find the replacement seal
Thanks for saving me time and money! Great video! Kinda expected it! Throw away society anymore. thanks brother!
Thanks for the video, shows what I want to see. My question is why my shaft that is connected to the wash plate comes off, it's so loose I can pull the wash plate and the shaft at once. Is there a way of fixing it?? Thanks again
Great video! Thank you! I came here looking for an answer to the super loud scream/ screech that my washer made when I ran the Auto-diagnostic mode. It went through every step fine, but when it got the the wash-spin mode it made the loudest grinding scream I have ever heard. then it started spinning. I figure it's the clutch mechanism not engaging properly, but I also wonder if it's a broken gear in the gear box. (Your video gives me an idea of what is in the gear box by the way. which is super helpful.) any insight would be great! I appreciate your time!
Yes that bearings can be replaced I have done it a lot
if yours is one of the machines with a plastic motor belt pulley check make sure the motor pulley has not striped its internal splines binding its rotation to the motor shaft . I have seen that happen the torque necessary to spin makes the motor shaft slip inside the pulleys splines and it makes a loud screech sound. exactly what you are saying..
Guitar man, great video. Exactly what I needed to see. Cheers.
The 🐐 with all the need to know information
Thanks
I like a person that's honest keep this and all your videos
Thanks
Thank you very much dude i am also trying to repair my washer transmission, seems the bearing is going bad and locking up will update if i get any progress.. :-)
and that's why we need to support the right to repair....
Good luck
Hi, Just starting Watching your Videos which are very informative for someone like me that is going to try to Repair Machines in my area of Massachusetts,,
I was just thinking in all those Dryers/Washers that Home Depot ,Lowes ect Sell each day and someone has to Service there Appliance when they break $$$$$
You are doing a Great Service with showing us what you learned !!! Should i get a small Trailer i can hook up to my truck to pick up unwanted free broken machines ?
I am very Handy and know how to use a Multi Meter and will give this a Shot!!! Just can you give me idea of what my Service Call Should be ?
I called a Service Company in the Boston,Ma area and they say they charge $150 Service Call to work on High End Appliances !!! Wow ..
God Bless and keep these. great Videos Coming !!!! Joe
I worked out for a long time with just my pick up truck. I got a ramp and a dolly and that was pretty much it. So you can definitely start off a truck but Would probably be a great upgrade later.
The best way to figure out what you can charge is asking some service guys in a Facebook group. A lot of times they’ll be a local to your area and one of those groups and they can give you the lowdown on exactly what you can charge. Check out the Facebook group “appliance apprentice group”
Let me know if you have any other questions.
You made me determined...am the son of a silver star marine from vietnam.....no such thing as no...adapt and overcome... Im on # 4 rebuild lol.
Awesome. I got a hold of one that did not have anywhere near the same amount of rust so some are definitely way easier than others to get that bearing off.
This is a very common problem, I know people who have some of these VMW machines with the same issue, I’ve seen it in an Amana NTW4516FW, my own Whirlpool WTW4900BW0, and a Kenmore top loader. Very common problem on this type of machine.
Dude this is an awesome video! I'm sure it can be figured out. I have a few ideas on how to repair it
My brother came over yesterday and we tried to get off that metal. Hit it with a big sledgehammer and flat head. It’s still didn’t come off I’m pretty sure it’s welded on or glued.
@@WasherDryerMoney Crimped on maybe (crushed). If glued, heating might release (soften) the “glue”. My guess, that ring my be crimped on. At this point, destructive dissembling may be the way to find the next clue. Maybe cut through that sleeve with a grinding wheel, then chisel off the pieces.
Inquiring minds wanna know. Being able to replace that bearing may be a moneymaker for someone.
Added: is failure of that bearing the first major malfunction for many machines?
Hi fellas I used a press and it came off
@@jeremyramdass831 interesting 🧐 that’s what I’ve heard before that you need some serious equipment for it to come off
Glad your back. Keep uploading videos sir.
Will do.
I managed to replacevthat top bearing on the shaft. Cut the welding and removed the flange on the bottom. Removed old bearing, fitted new bearing. Lined shaft and flange in the lathe and rewelded. Riveted housing back together. Probably not worth it if you don't have access to a lathe.
No no, There is much simpler way. That sleeve above the bearing comes off without any problems at all. Look above at my comment what is up and how it is done, and where and how to replace them.
Thank you for the video. It helped alot.
Very usefull, thanks for the video blessings from Guatemala take care.
Glad to help
Thank you for all your videos. Very informative. Going to give rehabbing washers and dryers, part time, a go, picked up my first dryer this morning. Ever try to rebuild a LG transmission?
Thanks again!
Good luck with your dryer. LG’s are not extremely popular in my area. At least I don’t get them very often. If I get one and it’s got a bad transmission I might break it down. I love to figure out how things work.
@@WasherDryerMoney I am known to tear things apart to see if I can get a better understanding of them sometimes.
Just a few days ago, I tore into some suspension rod springs to see about making them stronger by dealing with the foam inside the plastic pieces.
Cut the first one or two in half. Then decided another way to experiment with getting the moving plastic parts more grip.
Stay away from LG,Samsung,GE,Criterion and front load washers in general. If you want to make any kind of money, stick with Whirlpool direct drive standard washers and dryers.
Yeah this is an easy fix if you have the time patience, knowledge and tools to do it.
thanks for the demo, that looks like stress
@@RicardoBrathwaite-u6e ya not fun
Can you do a video of your recommended machines?
That’s a good idea. The obvious answer across-the-board for most Appliance Repair guys is the speed queen. But they are expensive. If I’m going used I would get a older direct drive washer.
Nice video good complete tear down
Hi, how did you get the upper bearing shaft combo disconnect from the case? I have removed the seal but the shaft is still stuck to the case.
This is infuriating. It would cost them 1 more dollar to make this serviceable, probably not even that. It just makes you appreciate a nice old direct-drive machine.
I fall more in love with direct drive machines every year. It was such a perfect design. The only ones I recommend new now are speed queens classic.
@@WasherDryerMoney Yep... but their dryers aren't getting favorable reviews... What dryer do you recommend?
Actually it would cost them MILLIONS to make it serviceable.
@@lilolme69 lol, they make much more money if it is not serviceable, as we need to buy the whole transmission instead of 2 bearings. and remember they were originally serviceable, they spent "millions" to make it Unserviceable when they made the "new" designs....
Any recommendations on where to buy a transmission either new or rebuilt
I was going to try the same operation, but seeing that the gear set is plastic, I believe that bad bearings might very well ruin the gears too.
Yeah they’re not made like the old direct drive washer‘s.
These washer is a VMW ( Vertical Modular Washer) system. I call it JUNK!
Thank you so much for your information. I have that exact transmission and the shaft bearing is totally loose and wobbly. Now I know I have to get a new transmission instead of trying to replace the bearing.
I dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Russell Manuel Instablaster ;)
@Forest Milo thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Forest Milo it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
@Russell Manuel glad I could help xD
I guess I'll be replacing the seals & bearings. I don't have the cash to buy a new one so I've been keeping this one running by watching RUclips videos 😂 I've replaced actuator a while back & the drain pump a few days ago. It didn't want to drain and was leaking I thought it was drain pump issue but it's still leaking so now I'm guessing the leak is the seal and it's been making a sound so I might as well replace the bearings as well. Can't lie tho this looks a bit intimidating. I really hope mine is welded on it's a diff one so let's hope.
Bearing go bad and The wobble eats that tub seal like no ones business same here shorted out my actuator chased it to here
@@trentshull6356Make a video of your washer on spin cycle
At 6:11 showing the bottom of the bearing and what looks like the top of the piece it looks like it is pressed down to, is a thumbnail like groove.
I wonder if you could clean the rust off the shaft then use a straight edge tool to separate the bearing from that piece then work it off.
I have a few that need bearings. Don’t think I am going to go through that.
Yeah that was my main take away. It’s just too much trouble even if the top bearing came off easily. If you spend the drum and it makes any type of grinding noise it’s not worth fixing in my opinion.
You gave bottom bearing number how about top bearing number?
Just took apart my transmission as per this video. The stainless steel collar for the seal on mine came off with abit of light hammering. I pop riveted the transmission back together with new bearings and it seems to be functioning.
Is 400 to much for a red Kenmore Elite dryer to sell. I’m fixing them easy it’s the selling that’s killing me
It’s always difficult to sell a single dryer that’s a weird color. If it was white most people would not care because their washer is more than likely white. The market will tell I would just lower the price every week until you start getting hits. Free market you know LOL
May I present solution to the bearing problem?
First know that it is the top bearing that goes out and not the bottom, 99% of the time, the one you can't get it because of that sleeve above it. It is that bearing that goes bad as it is right under the rubber seal. So now that is clear.
Okay second, most of these so called gear boxes don't have them holes you drove the nut driver through. But that is not big deal, you drill a couple of hole with a drill bit. That solves that. Just need 2 hole or even one hole is good enough.
Okay I will start from where you lift off.
Clean off the rust with a sand paper, clean it good, on that metal tube that the bearing and the bearing sleeve is on it. Then just spray some lubricant on the tube.
Place the bearing above the jaw of a vise or whatever and hit the top of the metal tube with a hammer by placing a 2x4 in between.
The race/sleave and the bearing will come out, no problem. The sleeve is not welded or glues or anything. It is pressed in at its top edge. If you look close you can see it. I have repaired at least dozen of these.
Clean the housing and install the new bearing ( 30x55x13mm, you can get them anywhere). Pounce the bearing until it seats. It will seat half way up, It won't go all the way to the top, so don't dry it.
Here is the seal: (Washing machine tub seal w10324647 w10006371 Ap4567772)
Now comes the creative part.
How are you going to install the sleeve and where would you get them?
Aha.
Ready?
They are 1 1/4" diameter, brass or some sort of rust resistent metal. So this is what you do.
You go the plumbing joint and buy a chrom pipe extension. They are located at the sink drain section. They are exact same size and the exact right wall thickness and no rest. One extension is enough pipe to repair 5-10 usage.
You cut it to size, about 1 1/4 long. Before you feed it in place, clean where it goes with rubber alcohol or so and put crazy super glue there. feed the new cut pip in place there and leave it for about an hour. It won't go no where.Make sure the pip is long enough but not too long (otherwise it will interfere with the basket) because the rubber seal goes around that sleeve. Your transmission will purr like a kittten.
Cheers.
Sounds like a clever solution. Make the video!
@@brucestevenson6085 It is difficult to video tape it while actually working at it, being one person.
I don't know why I left this crucial detail out.
There are times that the bearing is rusted good and it is pretty difficult to take it out using the method I have described.
Since nobody cares about the sleave or the bearing, use a dremel with cut off wheel and simply score the sleave vertically. Score it enough so you can use a chisel and a hammer and hit it and it will open up and give. You can then just slide up and remove it, using a channel lock or whatever.
Comes the bearing that is stuck on stupid and rusted good.
No problem.
Take the dremel with the metal cut off blade and score the outer part of the bearing. Score it at two parts, 180 degrees, one opposite the other. Bearings are hardened metal. So once scored good, take a hammer and smack on it good and the bearing outer collar just snaps and falls out. You can see videos of these on RUclips how stubborn bearings are removed.
The littler ball bearings justt comes off of course.
Now the inner part is what is stuck on the transmission tube. Same deal with that, score it like you did with outter collar.
Except you can't hit it with a hammer. Use a chisel and a hammer. Just place the chisel on the score line and hit it. If it doesen't just break and snap out, it will loosen very good. In that case you just take a channel lock or whatever and just walk it up and out.
ruclips.net/video/BIMt0WGmwxQ/видео.html
Thanks
@@brucestevenson6085 You can see this guys work better with a closer view. He just cuts it through. I am a little impatient. Nonetheless the idea is clear.
Also the bearing he is cutting seem to be more giving in my perspective.
He also didn't cut the inner race at two places for some reason or it would have just snapped out as the outer part.
Although I haven't tried it but I can bet that if you heat that outer brass sleave with propane or acytelene torch, it will expand enough where you can just take it out and then reuse it.
I am gonna have to try that.
ruclips.net/video/zEKb6a_StFg/видео.html
I have a GE Model # GJXR2G80W washer that has a loud clunk when it switches in and out of spin cycle. Is this a transmission issue?
What was the part number for the one that’s stuck on that shaft ??
It’s been too long since I made the video. I don’t have that transmission sitting around anymore. I believe it’s the same as the bottom one as far as the number that I showed in the video.
Do you have any part number(s) for those transmissions? From there we could arrive at a cost. From there, might it be cost effective to repair with upgraded bearings and replace oil with grease. When I need a transmission, I may be willing to pay more for an upgraded rebuilt one.
There’s only a few types of those transmissions. The big difference is the shaft in the middle is small for the low profile agitator version. I’m not sure there’s anyone making heavy duty versions of these transmissions. The video I did on removing the bearings from this transmission concluded with me thinking it was way too much trouble to get the top bearing off. Hi have heard there are a few guys that have gotten days off but their opinion was pretty similar to mine it’s a lot of time. You can look up a lot of prices for these transmissions on eBay to give you an idea anywhere from $100-$200.
It’s a kenmore. Is whirlpool Ultimate II also built like this?
If it has the six lights and pauses/play button it’s usually the same transmission.
What kind of oil can i use to replace the planetary gears?
I believe it’s gear oil, but I’m not 100% sure on that. They’re not really made to be serviceable as I mentioned in the video.
GE use grease and I think that’s a better idea because it’s less likely to start leaking and fail compared to any oil.
@@WasherDryerMoney thanks for the response! And thanks for your video it saved my washing machine. One question about the transmission shaft. I guess that it is normal for it to be exposed to water hence why the tub seal is right below it?
wheres the Link to parts place?????
Absalutly no reason to drill the 4 holes. Dont need to bend the big tang iether....I do the electric ones now too Lol.
I would cut that sleeve, then press bearing out
Looks like a can of worms. I'm going to save myself the headache and just buy the whole part
Not hard if you have the right tools. Sand paper to clean the rust. Torch to heat up the bearing to expand it. And a press to press it out the bearing. Not something everyone has in there arsenal.
I SUGGEST TO RE-GREASE ALL BEARING WITH MOLY GREASE or Lucas red and tacky EVEN NEW ONES UNLESS YOU BUY A GOOD BRAND SUCK AS SKF KOYO . THE CHINA BEARING NEED BETTER GREASE AS THEY USE CLEAR JUNK IN THEM PARDON CAPS BUTTON STUCK ON
You should message me because I had about the same problem but what I did I got a torch and heat it up then pound it out and it didn’t work for me I can show you some pictures if you send me a link
Send me an email.
Washerdryermoney@gmail.com
Oddball question: why was your shop sooo expensive to rent ?? $8,000.00/month sounds crazy.
Maybe I should reword that title. In my good months hi make $8000 refurbishing appliances. My shop is a two car garage at my house. I guess technically it’s kind of free. LOL I’ll work on that title.
@@WasherDryerMoney I just thought renting a garage down south was crazy expensive.
Couldn’t get it off because it was too snuggly !!!!!!😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Lol
How to remove the bearing and the race above it. Both same principle. Use a dremel with a cut off blade.
ruclips.net/video/BIMt0WGmwxQ/видео.html
You got scared of a little rust and gave up???
400 to much
Just list it and start lowering the price every week.Eventually you’ll get a good feel for what Appliances sell for in your area.
So would you recommend staying away from dryers that aren’t white?
@@iand2692 I sell a lot of washers and dryers and 99.99999999% of the time I pass if they are not white. And for the record..... DO NOT try and repaint it white. What a mess I ended up with and in the end, I had to strip all the white paint off. It looked like hell! lmao
@@lilolme69 haha thanks man. That’s the only one in my inventory that’s red. It’s a pain to sell
Like and a comment :)
Thanks
@@WasherDryerMoney hey you're welcome. Thank you for the very informative video. Got me right where I needed to be right away for my problem, rather than chasing my tail for an extended period of time while I try to figure out the issue. Saved me a bunch of time and probably a few dollars to actually. Super appreciate the video