Could you possibly describe some of the symptoms of any of the particular internal parts being broken? That last nylon bushing for example, perhaps could cause some sloppy noise during agitation? i recently changed the inner tub hub and possibly overstressed something inside the transmission, and that last few seconds of the video I think showed a weak link.
I own one of these GE machines with this transmission. I have done a lot of research to rebuild and get another 25 years from this washer. There are many videos of non English speaking repair techs out there. Mexican RUclipsrs post videos on repairing these machines. They do all sorts of interesting repairs like rebuilding the timers, to rebuilding the transmissions.
I just did mine, it agitates but it won't spin- I had the upper shaft with the teeth started on the last tooth not in the middle, do you think it jams when it goes to spin? I hear the brake unlock but it won't spin.
Can't say for sure about this specific application, but lip seals tend to be lightly pressed in. You pull them out with a screwdriver, then gently and evenly tap the new one in place.
Do you have a replacement seal? I do know of kits you can buy for this transmission. Make note of the condition of the shaft where the seal rides. There may be wear on the shaft and would cause it to leak in the future. You can buy a kit that comes with new shafts, seals, bushing...etc.
I see this is a rather recent upload. I have an old GE Profile with this transmission part #. (2001 - it had been working fine...) Recently it would not spin. I sanded the clutch "friction shoes" and it has worked fine for over a month. Today it wont spin. The motor turns but it seems as though the transmission lock ups immediately. I took off the belt and I can hand turn the tub pulley in the agitate direction and it turns fine. When I turn it the other way for the spin cycle it turns a little then it sounds as though it hits a metal pin and stops dead. I can turn it back and forth to "bump" whatever it's hitting and it sounds like metal-on-metal hitting in the transmission. If you read this and have any suggestions... thanks.
It does stop as far as the inner working in the transmission go, then it spins the entire body for the spin cycle. If the body won't spin then I'm going to guess the lower bearing failed or seized.
Sir, a fantastic video l am in the process of rebuilding my 20 year old GE washer. Why? because the new stuff is junk. Also l have a 1050 , 1254 and( 2 )1256 Bolen tractors l want to restore, your Bolen video was a bonus. Thanks for sharing l hope other people will subscribe, you have a lot to offer.
@@jeromedavis8575 That the Whirlpool Direct Drive transmision have aditional gears for the spin cycle and neutral, while GE one nope since it is a belt driven washer and the whole transmision spin counterclockwise along with the tub during the spin cycle, and it also have a separate pump to peform the "neutral drain" without having to turn the main motor.
I guess I won't be rebuilding mine. The casing is broken, as well as the weird looking gear that makes it agitate, I couldn't even see the plastic bushing, lol. Time for a new washer.
You can search ebay for the part number in the video title, they're often available for sale, but the used ones are more reasonable. The new old stock ones cost way more than the washer is worth.
@@MrUbiquitousTech it would cost me more for another transmission than a lightly used washer. I was debating on having the gears welded, but that would be a hassle too. Plus the cabinet is pretty rusty and oily. I'm in Canada and it seems online purchases are ridiculous compared to the US and/ or other countries.
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Could you possibly describe some of the symptoms of any of the particular internal parts being broken? That last nylon bushing for example, perhaps could cause some sloppy noise during agitation? i recently changed the inner tub hub and possibly overstressed something inside the transmission, and that last few seconds of the video I think showed a weak link.
I own one of these GE machines with this transmission. I have done a lot of research to rebuild and get another 25 years from this washer. There are many videos of non English speaking repair techs out there. Mexican RUclipsrs post videos on repairing these machines. They do all sorts of interesting repairs like rebuilding the timers, to rebuilding the transmissions.
I have the same transmission. Is working fine except it leaking at the tub side. Is there any part number for the top seal of the transmission?
What part # is the upper lip seal for the shaft if anyone knows?
I just did mine, it agitates but it won't spin- I had the upper shaft with the teeth started on the last tooth not in the middle, do you think it jams when it goes to spin? I hear the brake unlock but it won't spin.
As long as the teeth are properly aligned it won't matter if you lined it up at the last or the middle. Sounds like something's up with the clutch.
I have this washer...I am trying to find out how the top seal in the transmission fits.
Can't say for sure about this specific application, but lip seals tend to be lightly pressed in. You pull them out with a screwdriver, then gently and evenly tap the new one in place.
Do you have a replacement seal? I do know of kits you can buy for this transmission. Make note of the condition of the shaft where the seal rides. There may be wear on the shaft and would cause it to leak in the future. You can buy a kit that comes with new shafts, seals, bushing...etc.
I see this is a rather recent upload. I have an old GE Profile with this transmission part #. (2001 - it had been working fine...) Recently it would not spin. I sanded the clutch "friction shoes" and it has worked fine for over a month. Today it wont spin. The motor turns but it seems as though the transmission lock ups immediately. I took off the belt and I can hand turn the tub pulley in the agitate direction and it turns fine. When I turn it the other way for the spin cycle it turns a little then it sounds as though it hits a metal pin and stops dead. I can turn it back and forth to "bump" whatever it's hitting and it sounds like metal-on-metal hitting in the transmission. If you read this and have any suggestions... thanks.
It does stop as far as the inner working in the transmission go, then it spins the entire body for the spin cycle. If the body won't spin then I'm going to guess the lower bearing failed or seized.
Sir, a fantastic video l am in the process of rebuilding my 20 year old GE washer. Why? because the new stuff is junk. Also l have a 1050 , 1254 and( 2 )1256 Bolen tractors l want to restore, your Bolen video was a bonus. Thanks for sharing l hope other people will subscribe, you have a lot to offer.
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words!
What gear grease you used? The GE gear grease is expensive.
I used regular 75w/90
Gear oil SAE 90, close to a cup (250ml) is needed. Pretty much fills it. I recommend using Permatex gear oil RTV gasket maker.
Use a non-detergent oil, like compressor oil.
Awesome video!
Thank you Eric!
I had a GE washer with this transmission in it. It sounded like a whirlpool direct drive washer when agitating on the normal/fast speed.
The Agitation gears is pretty similar to the Whirlpool Direct Drive one.
@@KingHarlequin1999 What sets the 2 apart?
@@jeromedavis8575 That the Whirlpool Direct Drive transmision have aditional gears for the spin cycle and neutral, while GE one nope since it is a belt driven washer and the whole transmision spin counterclockwise along with the tub during the spin cycle, and it also have a separate pump to peform the "neutral drain" without having to turn the main motor.
@@KingHarlequin1999 Who had heavier gear oil, GE or whirlpool?
@@KingHarlequin1999 What oil is used in the 2 transmissions compared to the filter-flo?
I guess I won't be rebuilding mine. The casing is broken, as well as the weird looking gear that makes it agitate, I couldn't even see the plastic bushing, lol. Time for a new washer.
You can search ebay for the part number in the video title, they're often available for sale, but the used ones are more reasonable. The new old stock ones cost way more than the washer is worth.
@@MrUbiquitousTech it would cost me more for another transmission than a lightly used washer. I was debating on having the gears welded, but that would be a hassle too. Plus the cabinet is pretty rusty and oily. I'm in Canada and it seems online purchases are ridiculous compared to the US and/ or other countries.
@@MrUbiquitousTech What gear oil does this transmission use compared to their previous filter-flo transmissions?
Great tutorial. I see you changed your name.