A superb video. I just love your 'wonggely' spring trick, it's going to save me a headache tomorrow. Also the advice that the tappets will take up to 20 minutes to quieten! Well done!
Hi John, following Haynes and advice on these push rods and tubes mentioned by you, and some other vids, did this, was busy outside my house from pavement, weather turned atrocious, built what looked like a gypsy tent with tarpaulin over the rear door laid on a sponge mattress, water was everywhere but I didn't get wet, was determined to continue as I was all ready to go. First attempt a year before had failed, I didn't get the wiggly spring wire thing right, and, a stud was damaged. Found out they can be replaced, did so. I didn't use a torque wrench as didn't have the right one, had to do it by sense of touch and the tight is tight idea, so no forcing. Was a joy to stop the leaking because, as you know the oil goes right onto your heat exchangers and exhaust creating an awful smell. Ta and cheers. Pity the Haynes manual has images that look like they were taken in the dark, it has however been useful.
Hello, Yes I feel that despite the T3 used by Haynes being a staff vehicle.. the layout and photos of the CT CU engine section are far from clear.. Cordialement,
Hi. I believe rocker slots go up. They are to allow oil to pool-up and keep the assemblies lubed. Early 40hp engines did not have slots, and were notorious for seizing.
Hi Buggy, The early engines did not have hydraulic lifters and the pushrod tubes were sandwiched into place, so no spring or slotted pedestal was required. See my comment above...
I spent an inordinate amount of time fiddling with the 'wonggeley' springs. On the left-hand head, one could see where the pedestals had made a small groove where the spring had been pinched between the steel pedestal and the alloy head itself but not on the right head, nor on any other of the pedestals. This worried me enough to NOT simply pinch the spring between the pedestal and the heads. Quite correctly, the pedestals' grooves must face downwards as they are where the springs must reside, not between the pedestal and the heads. The grooves do not help pool oil to aid in the lubrication of the rocker shafts; they simply clamp onto them. The springs seat now beautifully on the edges of the pushrod pipes. I believe that, with some fiddling, one can even fit them after installing the shafts!
Aah the Wongly springs...I've seen so many of these motors without....easy to spot without dismantling because of the oil pouring out of the pushrod tubes..🙄 Cordialement,
Hello, Easy answer...Budget....The owner was hoping to be able to re-use pistons and barrels, so that was 300Euros. A pair of basic AA heads new is about 900Euros, but these heads were serviceable after being worked on, for a parts cost of about 85Euros. Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Reusing old barrels that have gone cone shaped is a waste of new rings and the compression will just goes back to the way it was within ~5000kms. I assume the serviced heads got new guides, valves and seats recut or replaced?
Thank you very much for all the lovely video's. I have a question in regards to the distributor gear. The muppet that build my engine, managed to put the distributor gear 180 degrees in the wrong way. I would like to remove it and put it in correctly. Do you have any tips for that?
A superb video. I just love your 'wonggely' spring trick, it's going to save me a headache tomorrow. Also the advice that the tappets will take up to 20 minutes to quieten! Well done!
Hi John, following Haynes and advice on these push rods and tubes mentioned by you, and some other vids, did this, was busy outside my house from pavement, weather turned atrocious, built what looked like a gypsy tent with tarpaulin over the rear door laid on a sponge mattress, water was everywhere but I didn't get wet, was determined to continue as I was all ready to go. First attempt a year before had failed, I didn't get the wiggly spring wire thing right, and, a stud was damaged. Found out they can be replaced, did so. I didn't use a torque wrench as didn't have the right one, had to do it by sense of touch and the tight is tight idea, so no forcing. Was a joy to stop the leaking because, as you know the oil goes right onto your heat exchangers and exhaust creating an awful smell. Ta and cheers. Pity the Haynes manual has images that look like they were taken in the dark, it has however been useful.
Hello,
Yes I feel that despite the T3 used by Haynes being a staff vehicle.. the layout and photos of the CT CU engine section are far from clear..
Cordialement,
Great video. Got a 1976 bus about a month ago. Thanks for the video
Excellent tips, most videos leave all of these very important little things out.
Australia
Another detailed concise "how to video", thank you
Hi. I believe rocker slots go up. They are to allow oil to pool-up and keep the assemblies lubed. Early 40hp engines did not have slots, and were notorious for seizing.
Hi Buggy, The early engines did not have hydraulic lifters and the pushrod tubes were sandwiched into place, so no spring or slotted pedestal was required. See my comment above...
I spent an inordinate amount of time fiddling with the 'wonggeley' springs. On the left-hand head, one could see where the pedestals had made a small groove where the spring had been pinched between the steel pedestal and the alloy head itself but not on the right head, nor on any other of the pedestals. This worried me enough to NOT simply pinch the spring between the pedestal and the heads. Quite correctly, the pedestals' grooves must face downwards as they are where the springs must reside, not between the pedestal and the heads. The grooves do not help pool oil to aid in the lubrication of the rocker shafts; they simply clamp onto them. The springs seat now beautifully on the edges of the pushrod pipes. I believe that, with some fiddling, one can even fit them after installing the shafts!
Aah the Wongly springs...I've seen so many of these motors without....easy to spot without dismantling because of the oil pouring out of the pushrod tubes..🙄
Cordialement,
Good to see someone making a video in detail like this. However, why you putting old junk heads on a rebuilt motor?
Hello,
Easy answer...Budget....The owner was hoping to be able to re-use pistons and barrels, so that was 300Euros.
A pair of basic AA heads new is about 900Euros, but these heads were serviceable after being worked on, for a parts cost of
about 85Euros.
Cordialement,
@@sarran1955
Reusing old barrels that have gone cone shaped is a waste of new rings and the compression will just goes back to the way it was within ~5000kms. I assume the serviced heads got new guides, valves and seats recut or replaced?
@@mathewboyd3746 ruclips.net/video/iGolJzpQVr4/видео.html
Thank you very much for all the lovely video's. I have a question in regards to the distributor gear. The muppet that build my engine, managed to put the distributor gear 180 degrees in the wrong way. I would like to remove it and put it in correctly. Do you have any tips for that?
Hello,
Sorry I did not see this before..
This may help:
ruclips.net/video/KkyBAMMHpa4/видео.html
Cordialement,