have been looking forward to this, as of late I’ve been spending more time on the camper (1982 CU 2 litre) so seeing / experiencing you pass on your wisdom is amazing
You cannot believe how important is that storage at the top. We have been travelling all around America and that storage is almost impossible to access for thieves. Ours is a small one though, the roof goes straight there but underneath there's space for cameras and laptops.
Once again a really easy to follow step by step walk through of setting up the carbs. I am a little confused though as my rotor arm doesn’t point to #1 at tdc? And the leads don’t match yours. It came that way and runs so I haven’t messed about with it but is it possible mine was set up 180 degrees out and the leads simply changed to match ? The prev owner put twin 34 Weber carbs on with pancake filters and the crankcase breather is open to the air. Should I be venting that back into the engine via the filter boxes ?
Hello, firstly the distributor: if you set the crankshaft to TDC with nr 1 piston at the top...what 'o clock' is the rotor arm tip pointing ??. and at what' o clock' is the vacuum capsule (flat outside) pointing. It may be that the distributor drive is installed 1 'tooth' out.. Secondly: The crankcase breather should go to the airbox, there are pancake filters with an inlet spigot available so using plastic elbows and non collapsing pipe you can get a satisfactory result. Cordialement,
Hello, Love the videos here!! What engine oil choices you have for winter and summer? Any brand in particular? Synthetic? I've got an aircooled from 1980 here :)
Hi, many thanks for that, very helpful indeed. What did you do with the loose screws on the sides of the carb' bodies? I have exactly this problem where both are quite loose.
Hello, My meters are Hawk brand, made in Japan in the 80 to 90s, analogue and adjustable. I have had them a long time. There are digital meters now, probably 3 to 5 hundred € Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 merci beacoup! So first set the advance and then the carburetor? It's strange. I have checked in different books (Bentley and How to keep your vw alive) and they both say 5 degrees After TDC. I admit on those books they don't refer specifically to CU engines but engines starting with C or aircooled only.
Hi there, My distributor doesn't have a vacumn lead - think its an 009 - at top dead centre the rotor arm is not pointing where yours is - it points at your number 4. Can this be right or have i got my top dead centre mark incorrectly marked. Suppose the question is - does the type of distributor affect the ht lead positions on the distributor cap? Thanks
Hello, You have the timing 180* out, so you have to rotate 1 turn of the motor and get tdc again . The HT cap goes on only one way, so if your leads are on correctly then the engine will run ok. If you still have a vacuum take off on your carb(s), then I do not think an 009 distributor is the best choice, being for more agricultural and pumping set ups. A better choice is a SVDA. Cordialement.
@@sarran1955 Thanks, and i was sure i had marked the pulley at tdc by following one of your other clips carefully. I'm tempted to fit an SVDA but the way things are currently going with rebuilding the carbs! not sure i would know how to connect the new coil wires properly etc. Cheers
8 degrees btdc? I keep seeing 30 at 3000rpm to confirm mechanical advance is accounted for. Thanks so much for the video. I would have also liked to see a close up of the plugs. I'm struggling with overheating. Rejetted so many times (after confirming no vac leaks) and now I'm starting to quadruple check timing. Your method was very different.
Hello, 8 to 10* BTDC at idle 800 rpm, vacuum off and plugged. Here is a recent video which may help: ruclips.net/video/VtVIGXmJd0U/видео.html Cordialement,
Hello, If your carburettors are early type (about '68 to 74) then there is a vacuum spigot on both carbs. After this, there is just one on the left hand master carb. This is attached to the rear spigot of the distributor capsule by a flexible tube. It is used to find the engine speed at which it starts to draw vacuum at tickover and then starts to bias the distributor advance mechanism, which is why you blank it off and disconnect from the dizzy to get the dynamic timing spot on. To balance the carbs you need a venturi meter, either like mine (which can be used on all sorts of carbs) or a snail type. The tune is effected by adjusting the bottom butterfly gap with the adjusting screw, normally about 0.6 to 0.8 mm. Use a fine screwdriver and small adjustments. Hope this helps, Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Thankyou! thats a massive help. Im going to be doing a full tune up on my 82 2.0 CU on this weekend, its popping and spluttering at the moment. Ill set the carbs like your previous video for the bottom butterfly gap and get a venturi meter to finely balance them at a later date.
Hello , the electrics on these carbs operate the chokes and fuel solenoids.If you can see sparks then it is possible that you have a badly seated /adjusted valve . A compression test will help to diagnose the problem. Cordialement..
@@sarran1955 check and it's number 2 taking out push rods and yip the seats need clean and freeing of .....big thanks hope your doing well enjoying France keep good and I'll text you big thanks..smiddy
have been looking forward to this, as of late I’ve been spending more time on the camper (1982 CU 2 litre) so seeing / experiencing you pass on your wisdom is amazing
Love watching your videos you've taught me a lot about the large 2ltre engines. Mine runs like a clock since j rebuilt the carbs following your video.
You cannot believe how important is that storage at the top. We have been travelling all around America and that storage is almost impossible to access for thieves. Ours is a small one though, the roof goes straight there but underneath there's space for cameras and laptops.
Perfect timing, my CU appreciates this
Hello,
I saw what you did there...
Cordialement,
It's a Bahamas!!! Good choice 😍
Once again a really easy to follow step by step walk through of setting up the carbs. I am a little confused though as my rotor arm doesn’t point to #1 at tdc? And the leads don’t match yours. It came that way and runs so I haven’t messed about with it but is it possible mine was set up 180 degrees out and the leads simply changed to match ?
The prev owner put twin 34 Weber carbs on with pancake filters and the crankcase breather is open to the air. Should I be venting that back into the engine via the filter boxes ?
Hello, firstly the distributor: if you set the crankshaft to TDC with nr 1 piston at the top...what 'o clock' is the rotor arm tip pointing ??. and at what' o clock' is the vacuum capsule (flat outside) pointing. It may be that the distributor drive is installed 1 'tooth' out..
Secondly: The crankcase breather should go to the airbox, there are pancake filters with an inlet spigot available so using plastic elbows and non collapsing pipe you can get a satisfactory result.
Cordialement,
תודה רבה על המידע זה מאוד עוזר
אין בעיה,
לבביות
Hello, Love the videos here!!
What engine oil choices you have for winter and summer? Any brand in particular? Synthetic?
I've got an aircooled from 1980 here :)
Hello, a 10/40 MINERAL oil is just fine. No need to be exotic
Cordialement
@@sarran1955 ahahah exotic. Have a good night!
Hi, many thanks for that, very helpful indeed. What did you do with the loose screws on the sides of the carb' bodies? I have exactly this problem where both are quite loose.
Hello,
Are you talking about the screws 1 per body of each carburettor that lock the venturi cylinder in place..??
Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Hi....yes, I think so
It's the screws you mention at 16:50
What's next on your channel,any more rebuilds coming up?
Hello, Still sticking to plan A, so ignition and carb adventures on the CT block, then a CT bottom end rebuild...
Cordialement,
I'm always amused at people who 'modify' Volkswagens thinking they know more than Volkswagen.
What's this 32:09 exhaust meter model? Is there any inexpensive tool like this in Europe? Thanks
Hello,
My meters are Hawk brand, made in Japan in the 80 to 90s, analogue and adjustable. I have had them a long time. There are digital meters now, probably 3 to 5 hundred €
Cordialement,
Did you say 80 mm from the center of the screw to the 8 degrees angle? 28:25
Hello,
Indeed...
This short may help:
ruclips.net/video/3nqUWst2XRo/видео.html
Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 merci beacoup!
So first set the advance and then the carburetor?
It's strange. I have checked in different books (Bentley and How to keep your vw alive) and they both say 5 degrees After TDC. I admit on those books they don't refer specifically to CU engines but engines starting with C or aircooled only.
morning what oil is best for the cu 2.0 engine ?
Hello,
I'm assuming you're in the United Kingdom ..
Any good quality mineral oil at 20/50 SAE will do,
Cordialement
Hi there,
My distributor doesn't have a vacumn lead - think its an 009 - at top dead centre the rotor arm is not pointing where yours is - it points at your number 4. Can this be right or have i got my top dead centre mark incorrectly marked. Suppose the question is - does the type of distributor affect the ht lead positions on the distributor cap? Thanks
Hello,
You have the timing 180* out, so you have to rotate 1 turn of the motor and get tdc again .
The HT cap goes on only one way, so if your leads are on correctly then the engine will run ok.
If you still have a vacuum take off on your carb(s), then I do not think an 009 distributor is the best choice, being for more agricultural and pumping set ups. A better choice is a SVDA.
Cordialement.
@@sarran1955 Thanks, and i was sure i had marked the pulley at tdc by following one of your other clips carefully. I'm tempted to fit an SVDA but the way things are currently going with rebuilding the carbs! not sure i would know how to connect the new coil wires properly etc.
Cheers
@@charliepaterson6988 Hello,
One thing at a time..
Static valve timing, then ignition timing, then final tickover and carb tune.
Cordialement,
8 degrees btdc? I keep seeing 30 at 3000rpm to confirm mechanical advance is accounted for.
Thanks so much for the video. I would have also liked to see a close up of the plugs.
I'm struggling with overheating. Rejetted so many times (after confirming no vac leaks) and now I'm starting to quadruple check timing. Your method was very different.
Hello, 8 to 10* BTDC at idle 800 rpm, vacuum off and plugged. Here is a recent video which may help:
ruclips.net/video/VtVIGXmJd0U/видео.html
Cordialement,
Where are the vacumn take off for the dial style carb sync tool on the carbs? I cant seem to find any info at all on it
Hello,
If your carburettors are early type (about '68 to 74) then there is a vacuum spigot on both carbs. After this, there is just one on the left hand master carb. This is attached to the rear spigot of the distributor capsule by a flexible tube. It is used to find the engine speed at which it starts to draw vacuum at tickover and then starts to bias the distributor advance mechanism, which is why you blank it off and disconnect from the dizzy to get the dynamic timing spot on. To balance the carbs you need a venturi meter, either like mine (which can be used on all sorts of carbs) or a snail type. The tune is effected by adjusting the bottom butterfly gap with the adjusting screw, normally about 0.6 to 0.8 mm. Use a fine screwdriver and small adjustments.
Hope this helps,
Cordialement,
Here is a little clip of the vacuum gauges on an older CJ type engine:
ruclips.net/video/dsfo5ATgBp0/видео.html
@@sarran1955 Thankyou! thats a massive help. Im going to be doing a full tune up on my 82 2.0 CU on this weekend, its popping and spluttering at the moment. Ill set the carbs like your previous video for the bottom butterfly gap and get a venturi meter to finely balance them at a later date.
Hi, how do I get in touch with you?
Thank you
Hello,I do not currently 'do' Facebook or Twitter.
Look me up on the 80/90 club page:
club8090.co.uk/forum/
Cordialement,
Hi can you please help if you can. Am getting sparks in cabraters. I dun timing new spark plugs Leeds cap running still back sparks in cabraters ..
Hello , the electrics on these carbs operate the chokes and fuel solenoids.If you can see sparks then it is possible that you have a badly seated /adjusted valve . A compression test will help to diagnose the problem.
Cordialement..
@@sarran1955 check and it's number 2 taking out push rods and yip the seats need clean and freeing of .....big thanks hope your doing well enjoying France keep good and I'll text you big thanks..smiddy