i have done both oil extraction and oil drain. i feel oil drain gets rid of more oil albeit at more effort and time. let it drain for a 1/2 hour, even then still drips
I actually did a bit of a combination. Had a car that has an oil filter under the engine so I used the extractor, then took off the oil filter when the extractor was done. Definitely a little bit still left in there, but not enough for me to worry about. To each their own though. Nothing wrong with taking your time and getting every last bit of old oil out of the engine.
Great video! To avoid your mistake, would you recommend cutting the end of the drain hose at a 45 degree angle so it's not fully pressed at the bottom of the pan?
That's a good question. Having done this a few times since on different cars, the honest truth is just raising it slightly off the bottom was enough. I even did this on my Evo which has an oil filter mounted under the car, I was surprised at how little oil was left when I removed the filter. In my opinion it works fine as is, however, I don't think cutting it at an angle would hurt. If you test it out, would love to hear your experience.
So I was just watching the footage from the video I was editing on doing the first oil change this way on my Evo IV, and I hear myself say, "the tube has an angle at the bottom". Still unsure why I struggled so much with the Audi, but when doing the Evo it got almost all the oil.
Followed your steps today. Regardless of the angle of the tube, I did notice the sulrping began around 6.7ish L. Continued to pump to get remaining oil. Your video was super helpful and easy to complete. Btw, I reversed the pump and pumped out the used oil back into the empty containers that I used, will take them to get disposed.
@@saroshhavewala1489 so glad you found it useful and it worked out well for you. I ended up taking the Mytivac directly to Advance and dumped it, but transferring it to something easier to transport makes sense as well.
I have a 19’ s5 fbo tune. I’m running 5w30 castrol edge euro blend. Cars runs much cooler stronger and the engine isn’t as noisy as it was on the 0w20 liqui molly
So I have my 30,000 mile service coming up soon, but I wanted to get one more oil change in before then. I think I'm gonna try your setup and see if I notice a difference. Thanks for the suggestion.
I have an 18' s5 stock and I have switched from OEM 508/509 to Royal Purple HPS 5w-30. I have about 75k on the clock and I started to see an increase in oil consumption. I had replaced the PVC valve and the one way breather hose. This slowed my consumption, but if I was not at MAX oil level I had some noticeable engine noise. The 0w-20 is for emission standards and it is recommended to move to a higher viscosity with. They had use to run 5w-40. The Royal Purple made it feel like new. It's smooth and has not significantly impacted my MPG. Maybe -0.5 MPG difference.
@@andytran-ry7ycprobably yes, mine is 2018 and stock. I had some cooling issues on the Autobahn, the engine was a little to loud from my perspective and I thought I had a little to much oil lose. The preowner had the services done in a tuning shop ( cuz he was a friend ) and had never issues with the cooling, noise and oil lose. After I bought it, I took it to Audi and let them do a check trough and Service. After that i started to get the issues. And after fucking hours of researching what could be the issue, it Turned out the tuning shop did 5w30 and Audi 0w20. So a couple weeks ago i changed it myself back to 5w30 and all issues are literally gone.
Terrible advice using anything but manufacturer recommended oil like some clown is suggesting in the comment section. AE839 direct injection engines suffer from low speed pre ignition due to incorrect oil viscosity (too thick) getting past the piston rings and igniting with the fuel especially if the car isn’t brought up to operating temp. Not to mention you will void the warranty using improper oil. It’s not that complicated, use manufacturer recommended oil, more frequent oil changes won’t hurt, and don’t thrash on these until you are at operating temp which goes for pretty much every high performance car out there.
Way too long because I had it pushed down too far. I think realistically it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes. The key is to make sure you extract the full amount.
For sure. Because I didn't do the last oil change and nothing else would come I wasn't sure if they just hadn't put in enough. Lesson learned that the tube was just shoved down too far.
Interesting. Watched your video and you made very good points. I'll definitely look into it. Either way I'm going to do more regular oil changes than recommended because I don't buy this 10,000 mile oil change nonsense.
Bro you are so full of shit. Complete BS advice. Are you an Audi engineer? You are merely providing opinions based on zero factual evidence. Every engine is different and has very specific tolerances to be complied with. In the case of the AE839, nothing will blow the engine quicker then high load pre ignition due to thick oil getting past the piston rings and blowing your engine up, especially when cold. It is STUPID to use anything other than manufacturer recommended oil especially when the car is still under warranty. Lastly, if you are concerned about the longevity of your oil and it’s efficiency, you send samples to a lab and analyze the data, you don’t make things up out of thin air because you think you know, very dangerous and expensive practice.
Thanks for watching. I put the list of tools in the description and also chapter markers so you can easily jump around if needed.
Like a pro. Love the oil ring change and putting oil on it. And the torque wrench - a must!!
Thanks Jay. Doing my best not to blow up my engine 🤣
Nice video!
Thank you. Appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment.
i have done both oil extraction and oil drain. i feel oil drain gets rid of more oil albeit at more effort and time. let it drain for a 1/2 hour, even then still drips
I actually did a bit of a combination. Had a car that has an oil filter under the engine so I used the extractor, then took off the oil filter when the extractor was done. Definitely a little bit still left in there, but not enough for me to worry about. To each their own though. Nothing wrong with taking your time and getting every last bit of old oil out of the engine.
Great video! To avoid your mistake, would you recommend cutting the end of the drain hose at a 45 degree angle so it's not fully pressed at the bottom of the pan?
That's a good question. Having done this a few times since on different cars, the honest truth is just raising it slightly off the bottom was enough. I even did this on my Evo which has an oil filter mounted under the car, I was surprised at how little oil was left when I removed the filter. In my opinion it works fine as is, however, I don't think cutting it at an angle would hurt. If you test it out, would love to hear your experience.
So I was just watching the footage from the video I was editing on doing the first oil change this way on my Evo IV, and I hear myself say, "the tube has an angle at the bottom". Still unsure why I struggled so much with the Audi, but when doing the Evo it got almost all the oil.
Followed your steps today. Regardless of the angle of the tube, I did notice the sulrping began around 6.7ish L. Continued to pump to get remaining oil. Your video was super helpful and easy to complete. Btw, I reversed the pump and pumped out the used oil back into the empty containers that I used, will take them to get disposed.
@@saroshhavewala1489 so glad you found it useful and it worked out well for you. I ended up taking the Mytivac directly to Advance and dumped it, but transferring it to something easier to transport makes sense as well.
Thanks for sharing. @Hengst and @LiquiMoly a good combination!
Yeah good stuff for sure, and at a good price.
I have a 19’ s5 fbo tune. I’m running 5w30 castrol edge euro blend. Cars runs much cooler stronger and the engine isn’t as noisy as it was on the 0w20 liqui molly
So I have my 30,000 mile service coming up soon, but I wanted to get one more oil change in before then. I think I'm gonna try your setup and see if I notice a difference. Thanks for the suggestion.
I have an 18' s5 stock and I have switched from OEM 508/509 to Royal Purple HPS 5w-30. I have about 75k on the clock and I started to see an increase in oil consumption. I had replaced the PVC valve and the one way breather hose. This slowed my consumption, but if I was not at MAX oil level I had some noticeable engine noise. The 0w-20 is for emission standards and it is recommended to move to a higher viscosity with. They had use to run 5w-40. The Royal Purple made it feel like new. It's smooth and has not significantly impacted my MPG. Maybe -0.5 MPG difference.
@@s0m3thlng_should i run 5w-30 if im bone stock?
@@andytran-ry7ycprobably yes, mine is 2018 and stock. I had some cooling issues on the Autobahn, the engine was a little to loud from my perspective and I thought I had a little to much oil lose. The preowner had the services done in a tuning shop ( cuz he was a friend ) and had never issues with the cooling, noise and oil lose. After I bought it, I took it to Audi and let them do a check trough and Service. After that i started to get the issues. And after fucking hours of researching what could be the issue, it Turned out the tuning shop did 5w30 and Audi 0w20. So a couple weeks ago i changed it myself back to 5w30 and all issues are literally gone.
Doesnt make any sense!
Terrible advice using anything but manufacturer recommended oil like some clown is suggesting in the comment section. AE839 direct injection engines suffer from low speed pre ignition due to incorrect oil viscosity (too thick) getting past the piston rings and igniting with the fuel especially if the car isn’t brought up to operating temp. Not to mention you will void the warranty using improper oil.
It’s not that complicated, use manufacturer recommended oil, more frequent oil changes won’t hurt, and don’t thrash on these until you are at operating temp which goes for pretty much every high performance car out there.
@@ayrtonm7907 thanks for the feedback. I've done 4 oil changes on this car and I only used the manufacturer recommended viscosity.
@@shautohaus Smart man, not just any 0w20, 509 spec
Cut the end of the suction tube at an angle...
Where do you go to dispose the old oil from the evacuator hose?
Auto zone or Advanced Auto. They both have disposal tanks in the rear. Just ask the front desk folks. They usually ask you how much you are disposing.
How long did it take to get the oil out?
Way too long because I had it pushed down too far. I think realistically it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes. The key is to make sure you extract the full amount.
You should check that at least 7 Lout before add new oil in to start with
For sure. Because I didn't do the last oil change and nothing else would come I wasn't sure if they just hadn't put in enough. Lesson learned that the tube was just shoved down too far.
ECS makes a dip stick
@@AndrewTa530 I remember seeing that. I need to just buy it. Really don't like that I have to go into the MMI to check my oil level.
The green tint is the special oil for b9 S4 it’s not because it’s liquid moly. Regular 0W-20 isn’t green this oil has a special number in the back
B9.5 s4/5 takes the same oil^
Interesting. Thanks for the info.
0W20 is WAY too thin. No wonder these have premature rocker arm failure. Explains a lot. These engines need 0W40. I just made a video on this
Interesting. Watched your video and you made very good points. I'll definitely look into it. Either way I'm going to do more regular oil changes than recommended because I don't buy this 10,000 mile oil change nonsense.
Bro you are so full of shit. Complete BS advice. Are you an Audi engineer? You are merely providing opinions based on zero factual evidence.
Every engine is different and has very specific tolerances to be complied with. In the case of the AE839, nothing will blow the engine quicker then high load pre ignition due to thick oil getting past the piston rings and blowing your engine up, especially when cold. It is STUPID to use anything other than manufacturer recommended oil especially when the car is still under warranty. Lastly, if you are concerned about the longevity of your oil and it’s efficiency, you send samples to a lab and analyze the data, you don’t make things up out of thin air because you think you know, very dangerous and expensive practice.