How has Damp come back through if you've injected it and then sand and cement render? Surely that would stop it so it wouldn't ever affect the bonding or has he chipped your render off and reinstalled with bonding? I'm confused to what he's done 😂
I would suggest that the finish has been spoiled by efflorescence. Salts surfacing from after the background began to dry after the damp proofing began to work. This may have deteriorated the new plaster. The vinyl paint would have exasperated this defiantly.
For clarification to anyone wondering. Carlite is a brand of gypsum undercoat plaster. Gypsum plaster degrades when water is introduced. This can cause the salts in it to expand, changing its appearance and spoiling the finish. Efflorescence can also become visible as well as biodegradation which can create a bio hazard.
@@dampsam Biodegradation is the breakdown of the material via microbiome forming. This includes fungi, bacteria and mould. All can be harmful to health.
@@amateurvegan2636 I think that’s just a bit of scare mongering as nearly everything is biodegradable if you give it long enough to decay. The compost pits in gardens would do more damage and there are millions of mould spores in the atmosphere. We would all end up like Howard huges if we listened to all the different scaremongers.
There can be issues with dry flex if the background is not prepped correctly, I heard of a contractor who used it and the paint on the wall was not adhered (bonded) correct and the membrane fell off after it was skimmed, always make a physical key on the background. Another issue has been on the joints and beads left in situ. Salts can come through any areas of wall not covered by adhesive and membrane so overlap it don’t butt it up to each other.
Hi Simon , just watched your latest video, did you have to hack off to fit Dryflex and use Salt neutraliser on the chimney breast , something iv got to address on my house at some point in future , Thanks Mark
Hi Mark, when I looked at the job the idea was to just go over the top with the dryflex if the wall was sound, then I realised they had put Carlite bonding on top of the render so I chipped it off, I then brushed it down and put a coat of SBR on the render. Where the plaster board was I jus took off the bottom where it was touching the solid floor, I put a coat of SBR on and let it dry before applying the adhesive, you don’t need to but I feel it gives you more time.
Hi Stephen, we use Dry Flex adhesive, it is made as part of the system and is like floor tile adhesive, you spread it on then go over it with a notched trowel before laying on the membrane 👍
So out of the product range what is best plastering after damp proofing out of the below options or if you have another suggestion.. Stik foam adhesive + board Sand & cement with sika 1 additive Or you have some dryzone Plaster for after rodding?
Its which ever your most comfortable with installing. i would not put sand and cement render on a solid external wall as it could thermal cold bridge. I think the best and quickest method is the express system if you have all the things to install it correctly.
I’d love to comment on this but without knowing all the details and seeing the job I don’t want to give you any wrong advice. There are a few different backing plasters that can be applied but to get them on correctly the correct you have to follow specifically the instructions.
Some interesting advice thanks! Quick question, I know bonding shouldn't be used, but could I use Thistle Hardwall over tanking slurry? Sand and cement render failed due to a leaking window only a small patch about a foot square.
Car lite acts like a sponge sucks all moisture in a definite no no under 1 metre high unfortunately as its so easy to use it's normally used by bobble hat billies and bodgers
Хобби
Never seen this system done before, looks really good, keep up the good work Sam 👍
Thanks Sam and great name by the way
How has Damp come back through if you've injected it and then sand and cement render? Surely that would stop it so it wouldn't ever affect the bonding or has he chipped your render off and reinstalled with bonding? I'm confused to what he's done 😂
I would suggest that the finish has been spoiled by efflorescence. Salts surfacing from after the background began to dry after the damp proofing began to work. This may have deteriorated the new plaster. The vinyl paint would have exasperated this defiantly.
That’s one way to look at the problems I suppose
For clarification to anyone wondering. Carlite is a brand of gypsum undercoat plaster. Gypsum plaster degrades when water is introduced. This can cause the salts in it to expand, changing its appearance and spoiling the finish. Efflorescence can also become visible as well as biodegradation which can create a bio hazard.
I’m not sure about the bio hazard or what it means, can you explain a little more I’m interested.
@@dampsam
Biodegradation is the breakdown of the material via microbiome forming. This includes fungi, bacteria and mould. All can be harmful to health.
@@amateurvegan2636 I think that’s just a bit of scare mongering as nearly everything is biodegradable if you give it long enough to decay. The compost pits in gardens would do more damage and there are millions of mould spores in the atmosphere. We would all end up like Howard huges if we listened to all the different scaremongers.
Have you had any more issues like this, and have you had any issues with dry flex .
I’m learning a lot from your videos. Thanks
There can be issues with dry flex if the background is not prepped correctly, I heard of a contractor who used it and the paint on the wall was not adhered (bonded) correct and the membrane fell off after it was skimmed, always make a physical key on the background.
Another issue has been on the joints and beads left in situ. Salts can come through any areas of wall not covered by adhesive and membrane so overlap it don’t butt it up to each other.
Hi Simon , just watched your latest video, did you have to hack off to fit Dryflex and use Salt neutraliser on the chimney breast , something iv got to address on my house at some point in future , Thanks Mark
Hi Mark, when I looked at the job the idea was to just go over the top with the dryflex if the wall was sound, then I realised they had put Carlite bonding on top of the render so I chipped it off, I then brushed it down and put a coat of SBR on the render.
Where the plaster board was I jus took off the bottom where it was touching the solid floor, I put a coat of SBR on and let it dry before applying the adhesive, you don’t need to but I feel it gives you more time.
Great Video what bonding would you use instead of Carlite bonding? Thanks
I would need to see the background to decide of what reinstatement is used.
How do you fix the dryflex membrane to the wall?
Hi Stephen, we use Dry Flex adhesive, it is made as part of the system and is like floor tile adhesive, you spread it on then go over it with a notched trowel before laying on the membrane 👍
So out of the product range what is best plastering after damp proofing out of the below options or if you have another suggestion..
Stik foam adhesive + board
Sand & cement with sika 1 additive
Or you have some dryzone Plaster for after rodding?
Its which ever your most comfortable with installing. i would not put sand and cement render on a solid external wall as it could thermal cold bridge. I think the best and quickest method is the express system if you have all the things to install it correctly.
What backing plaster would you recommend applying over tanking slurry, would sand and cement render stick to the slurry ok?
I’d love to comment on this but without knowing all the details and seeing the job I don’t want to give you any wrong advice. There are a few different backing plasters that can be applied but to get them on correctly the correct you have to follow specifically the instructions.
Some interesting advice thanks!
Quick question, I know bonding shouldn't be used, but could I use Thistle Hardwall over tanking slurry? Sand and cement render failed due to a leaking window only a small patch about a foot square.
Personally I wouldn’t as it’s a gypsum based product
Car lite acts like a sponge sucks all moisture in a definite no no under 1 metre high unfortunately as its so easy to use it's normally used by bobble hat billies and bodgers
Where did you get your hnc?
Barnsley Technical College
Hnc in?
keep bonding off the ground floor completely.
That's the plan!
Your correct, your systems do not work total ignorance of Building Sceince, a rip off merchant pretends he knows what he talking about.
Where are you based need work done
Barnsley in South Yorkshire