Better Off Road Performance Cheap [Sway Bar Disconnects]
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- BADLANDINDUSTRIES.COM
You guys love our products and here's another one for those of you that want more articulation and better flex for your Instagram pics and maybe off road too.
These OE fit sway bar disconnect links are 100% bolt on and require no drilling. We do offer a Heavy Duty set as well that will require modification of the sway bar and control arm.
They are intended to be removed as needed to allow full range of motion of the front IFS.
What's cool about these links is that unlike most kits you only need 1 to get the function.
You can buy these here: www.badlandind...
Free Amazon Prime Membership ~ amzn.to/3M4bPQI
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Would u design a disconnect for the new nissan frontier?
I've been asked to before, and I believe that due to the sway bat location, this link won't work
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Just ordered a oe replacement one for my H3T alpha
Appreciate it man.
@@BadlandIndustries any plans for a rear disconnect? I have mine removed currently. But noticed it definitely feels twitchy after on the road
@@mk2mike i have not tested them but if you can confirm they're 10mm thread and the length I'll make one for you
@@BadlandIndustries awesome! I’ll get some measurements and see if only one is needed or if both and a securing point is needed
Need these for my V8 H3
Sway bar never touch upper A arm?
No
Make anything like that for a 05 Xterra?
Looks like it'll hit the tie rod if one side is disconnected.
On my H3, the front link is 5.25" and the back link is 4.5".
How long are your H3 links and does the 3/4" difference matter much?
Do the link heads rotate so you can mount with both facing one direction(front) and also facing away from each other(rear)?
Your store says they are HD for the H3, does that mean drilling the mount and sway bar is required?
Like you style, keep up the good work.
I go off the factory dimensions. That said they are adjustable by a little bit. They can spin and rotate to fit perfectly. The h3 are already bigger so no drilling.
These are well made and heavy duty.
As a side note, for those doing the torsion bar lift on your H3 to 23.5", disconnect the sway bar before raising. I took it to a tire shop so they could align it and asked them to raise it to 23.5". Everything looked great and drove good. I always had an issue putting the link back on because the gap was longer than the link, I wrote this off as uneven ground. I made this link the same length as the factory link and when i went to install it, it was short, but this time it was on level concrete. Upon checking the height, the passenger was 23" and the driver was 24", the sway bar was doing it's job. All's well now at 23.75" each side and the link is the right length.
Now I just have to figure out a way to make my arthritis riddled fingers grab and pull the sheath down to open. Maybe a socket head 10-32 on each side about the middle of the sheath. Ideas?
I have a 04 Colorado 4x4 with the 5 in CST lift. Would these work with my set up?
I have a custom length option at checkout. Measure your link and ill send you one that long.
What happens if you disconnect both links from sway bar? Why do you suggest only disconnecting the drivers side?
The sway bar would need to be retained so that it won't contact the tie rod. With the one link still connected the bar can be allowed to articulate with the connected arm and not contact the tie rod. Also selling 1 is cheaper, and the driver side is conveniently close to you the driver so the time and effort involved.
@@BadlandIndustries Thanks for clarifying. I wish I could just send you my canyon and update everything on it haha! Thanks for the videos.
@@deanmiller5114 nothing im doing is all that crazy aside from the motor swap and sas stuff.