You forgot to add in the cost of buying your wife new fabric scissors. I dared to use my mother's fabric shears on paper, my next several week's allowance went to replacing them. 25 years later I still remember that fabric shears are for fabric only.
Remember, like Eskimos have 50 some different names for snow and ice, so too do women have for scissors and their uses, there's one scissor only used during Thanksgiving, without it no one can eat turkey. Also women have hidden scissors and they charpen them everytime you we make small makes that nag at their pet peeves
Get some 8 in. Multi-Purpose Stainless Steel Scissors from harbor freight or wiss shears. My favorite shears for garden, kitchen, and the shop. Using fabric scissors is like using your detail brush for drybrushing
The galvanized flashing shingles are used as an added layer of waterproofing on valleys of roofs, sometimes used on walls that are taller than another roof, such as on an attached garage, though you want a 90 degree angle when used that way. Haven’t played or painted in 13 years but channels like this make me want to get back into the hobby.
I remember going against a Custodes player who magnetized his bases and just used a steel sheet as the transport, what he did though was a paint job of marbling and gold leafing on the sheet to have the Aquila symbol.
This was the technique I used to use and it's fantastic. Goobertown Hobbies did a great video covering a ton of different methods to store minis and one he suggested was using small steel blanks (about a 1.25 inch disc) on the base of the mini and sticking a magnet to it, then putting it on a galvanized steel sheet. The magnetic bond is much stronger since it's between two pieces of metal and you don't have to worry about the magnet causing problems since it's stuck to the mini
My choice are Ikea Samla plastic boxes and magnetized self-sticking sheets ; this allows you to attach miniatures to the cover and keeps the box lightweight
I HEAVILY recommend using the Really Useful Box brand. They are tough and if you get the XL boxes you can get one of their lipped trays to double up on the troops you can fit. I have 5-6k of slaves to darkness in 4 of their boxes, all magnetized with some galvanized steel riveted to the bottom of the boxes and trays. Right now their site is out of stock on the 19ltr XL and the 9ltr XL i used, but i'm sure they'll make more soon.
Seconding RUBs! They're a big brand in the UK at least. Grab some self-adhesive magnetic sheets and stick them on the bottom and you're gold! And they all stack VERY neatly!
Staples in the US has them. Also, Walmart sells document boxes in a similar size that make a good substitute. The 8.1 L Really Useful Box is exactly the right size for four ASOIAF units in their trays, which makes it incredibly easy to get them from storage case to table.
I get large metal sheets in the ductwork section at home depot. I line a box with foam core and mount the sheets onto the foam core before final assembly. I use spray adhesive to attach the metal to the foam core. I also cut the metal a little bit smaller than the foam core sheets (about 1/4" or so) so the sharp metal edges are kept farther away from body parts. The foam core can simply be a friction fit into the container or you can use your glue method but you really only need to glue the bottom since the foam core sides will be glued to the foam core bottom.
Magnet Baron sells some awesome magnets and bases that come with slots in them for the magnets! They're the best and would work PERFECTLY with what you describe in this video
I was going to mention the use of sodium bicarbonate so props for that. The use of flashing was clever as Ive seen others use magnetic sheets or magnetic primer. It also reminded me I have a large roll of steel used for wrapping window trim & that will work well for my 'mech dolls.
I've been trying to work out how to do a transport box without things like a rivet tool, so this certainly helps. The trick I use for magnetizing the bases is to put a small dollop of UV resin (like for home made jewelry) and hit it with a UV lamp/light for about 5 minutes.
Great ideas! Double-sided 3M automotive tape is incredible for attaching magnets to bases and sheet steel to containers. It is expensive, but it saves you time. Which makes it cheap!
I use those self adhesive magnetic sheets, cut them into circles then stick them on the bottom. Put into metal toolboxes and bam, best carrying case ever.
In SEA, they sell biscuits in giant, rectangular tins with square lids. One good example being the Khong Guan brand of Top Choice biscuits with a 2 lb capacity, which my grandmother bought lots of. For $10, it's a great way to have afternoon tea and an army storage box.
In the u.k we have boxes called 'really useful boxes' and then just stick magnetic sheets on them that are flexible. Costs about £10 to make 1 or $12 in U.S money. They also have clip lock lids and stack well. A much cheaper option if you can get them.
Mason jars full of water. Put in as many models as fit. Shake until settled. Put in more to top up. When playing dump entire contents out as an "environmental hazard" for a neat way to enter the battle and insure never receiving an invite to return.
it was an old comic. the main character was extremly hyped about warhammer40k. but quickly lost interest in it. so he put all his minis in one bag and left the bag in his car....they more or less "bonded" together in one "gigant" ball...
Man, I just today discovered your channel, and I wanted to say that your videos are fantastic. I love the way they're edited, it reminds me of Studson Studio's videos.
I think this is best budget technique. I use clear double sided mounting tape. It's not as smelly as epoxy and does the trick since it's usually rates for 10-50lbs. You can grab a roll from the dollar store for cheap.
i highly recommend centralizing the location of the magnet. Moving a blob of models around is a real pain if you stick them near the edges and they start grabbing on to one another.
Another good tip - hotglue or noncrystalizing superglues work better for holding magnets on the bottom of bases - especially for those who experience winter as the differential expansion between trad. superglue and magnets cause them to pop off. (found this out recently, I too used to glob tons of superglue to stick the magnets)
plastic glue and sprue bits (sprue glue) works. A nice and thick batch will seal the magnet right into the base. Just dont use too much at one time with larger bases that need multiple magnets as it could melt/warp the base's plastic itself.
I didnt try it yet. But some people recommended using Green Stuff or something similiar so there is no space between the magnet and the floor. And then pretty much drown everything in super glue. Hotglue might work but in my experience its not the best thing to hold something in place forever. Maybe it depends on the type of hot glue, I have no clue :D.
One thing to note for people using this technique: If you intend to fly to a huge tournament, and this transport method is used, and it has a lid, the TSA will need to open the box to check inside as the x-ray may not be able to see through it. Those other cases may be expensive, but if the end result is that your mini's don't get molested by airport security, then the cost is mitigated. After all, if the TSA has to look in, they may damage the mini's inadvertently... And that's not something you want to have happen.
I was lucky and got one of the big foam suitcases for free. Love it for transport, but this definetly seems neat too. Might try it if i ever need more transport boxes
Foam is usually everyone's starter. But it is so much faster to drop your models onto a metal plate and you dont have to worry about pieces getting stuck on the foam.
Safe&Sound makes boxes for miniatures that have metal bottoms/tops/sides, whatever you want. A big box with metal sheets in the top and bottom costs a bit over 30€. Not too sure if you can get them from outside Europe too well though
Instead of super glue or greenstuff, I recommend a hot glue gun for making a nice durable attachment. Put the magnet on a nice blob of glue, and then immediately press it down to an unpainted steel plate. The magnet will pull itself to the surface - ensuring a nice, flush, maximum-strength magnetic field - and the hot glue will fill the space between the magnet and the base. If the surface is clean and flat, the model will pop right off when cooled and the glue will leave no residue. I've never had a magnet break off when glued on like this. Best of all, the whole process takes very little effort and leaves no mess.
Fantastic video Nik!! I never thought of using steel plates in a bin to make magnets stick, brilliant! Also your editing is so freaking good! The story flows so well and everything is really clean. I aspire to be at this level one day 💪
Awesome video. You forgot to put the neodyn...neoduh...neeodum... the magnets on the Total. Other than that, great idea for transport, as long as you don't hit the box too much, it should be fine. Maybe sticking the box inside one of them transport cases...
@CC Minis I haven't done it myself, but I have seen videos about it. I plan to give it a try. Its a fairly thick paint, so just needs a good coat. I don't know about drying time. It may be worth a look into if you are interested. I was going to try it on a test plastic plate first and go from there.
@@CCMinis magnetic paint is full of smushed up iron. it's really thick and goopy and needs to be mixed really well. Three thin coats should do it but more coats is more iron for magnets to stick to. I'd give it at least a day to dry and you can paint over it but that reduces the already somewhat meager (compared to a metal sheet) effectiveness
What a compelling and brilliant video. Simple, fun, entertaining - and excellent clip-switch-rate. Dude, were i super rich i would hire you to do my videos. In fact, am looking forward to sticking simple magnets to the bottoms of my minis and sticking them everywhere metallic. If you drive away with minis stuck all over your car, you can safely assume it is my fault - and police officers will know where to send the restraining order.
Friendly recommendation you should add links to like an Amazon thing for the materials for those who don't have any local hardware shops or are just to lazy.
I use a similar technique, except due to my multiple, and curious pets, the open top posed a risk (for some reason my cats loved sleeping in them, and my doggos thought they were chew toys) another product that works wonders is a cheap toolbox (about 14AUD for a small red toolbox from the local hardware store) this provides a lid to add extra protection! its already metal so no need to modify :) plus an added bonus of having a spot for a padlock if you have curious children ;)
@@CCMinis really well tbh, i even incorp bit of a similar metal sheet in some terrain so minis can climb walls/ladders and things. Thanks for sharing though more people should know about this trick.
Only problem with those shingles is . Like the bigger the magnet they better it holds, the thicker steel you have the better it holds. So maybe ok for gentle movement and storage. Probably not enough if you have to haul the box in anyway it might get knocked. Doubling or tripling up the sheets might provide enough metal that you get a really secure grip. I have been using cheap steel rulers fastened to an inside of a box ,, that gives 1 to 2 mm thickness of steel. Ikea also have some great steel trayed document boxes , with metal 4 shelves, no front cover though.
Everyone always hating on foam. Buy the right sized stuff and it won't break. Sure if you jam a pointy chaos terminator on a 40mm base in a classic foam sheet with 25mm holes it will break for sure. Buy foam with properly sized holes for your miniatures and it is completely fine. Ofcourse you have to plan ahead and when your entire army is different size of models it will get expensive really quick. But for armies with mostly the same size of mini's it's fine (guard). Pick & Pluck foam also allows you to store your boxy tanks perfectly without needing to drill holes for magnets in the tracks.
I recycle metal Cookie boxes for this purpose. And I glue 1 or 2 Cent coins below the model base and then I need only magnets for the models I intend to transport instead of just all. And the models with magnets don't react to each other on the battlefield.
Man, you read my mind! I’d been looking for a box tutorial recently and you came right up. One question on the last part, did you sand the shingles on the inside to make the minis not slide around as much?
As that one guy who had too many issues with using magnets for transport, here is my 2 cents (I go in depth): 1) If you are purely going for budget and efficiency, this guide is actually pretty good advice and it doesn't get much better than this. However, due to looks, risk to health and other stuff that most of us wargamers really don't care too much about (let's be real), there are some improvements that can be made. 2) For example, many people use Duncan's 2 or 3 year old video where he uses "Really Useful Boxes" that use the magnetic rubber/steel sheets that can be easily cut into, present no harm on pointy edges, and all around are extremely easy to use, plus they don't look terrible when glued down! You can even purchase them in the same size as the box (essentially) as the box is meant for A4 sized paper, and the magnetic sheets can come in A4 sized sheets. The downside to these rubber sheets is that they aren't very powerful. To simplify (and slightly inaccurately represent) how magnets work, magnets have a polarity. When they find an opposite polarity, they REALLY want to get close to that polarity, i.e. literally the side with more electrons (negatively charged). With these rubber steel sheets they usually have some in there that is meant to act as a magnet (one side has more electrons than the other, hence they naturally act as magnets) but they also don't have much metal in them, meaning that a regular piece of metal (which is chockful of, well, metal) the atoms of the metal align themselves and act like a magnet and do a much better job! The main downside to using metal is that it's much heavier (Which doesn't seem like much, but if you're one of the Warhammer players who has broken the 5 digit point marker a while ago, weight matters! Especially during transportation), risk of cutting/getting cut (children or clumsiness) and all around just not as easy to handle or use. With that being said, it works much better with magnets! 3) There is a big difference in magnets, and at the same time, hardly any at all! xD Essentially, Rare Earth magnets are, well, great materials to be used for magnets! Neodymium magnets (you got it almost perfect on the pronunciation, just change the n to an m (you said neody'n'ium)) are essentially the "creme de la creme" of Rare Earth magnets, and the best materials for making magnets (that are currently known, beyond doing stupid stuff such as freezing magnets to near sub-zero temperatures and making super-conductors). Essentially, Neodymium is the best, but also keep in mind that there are different grading and ratings for Neodymium magnets! They typically range from N32 all the way up to N52. Essentially, bigger number == better! Now, keep in mind that the difference in magnet pull strength between N32 and N52 is significant, anywhere from 30-50% more pull force, but the difference between N50 and N52? Or even N48 to N52? We're basically hassling over a small percentage. Essentially, go Neodymium, preferable at least N42+. Typically N50+ is a bit more expensive, but if you are like me and found that 1 amazon Chinese seller who sold 500 N52 Neodymium magnets (I checked, they're N52!) for $30, you are absolutely *GOLDEN*, otherwise it's not a big deal. 4) What matters most on magnets is always *surface area* and how close it actually gets to what it's attracted to. Firstly, you want as much surface area to be as close as possible to the target. For this reason, I wouldn't recommend buying magnets with a diameter of no lose than 5 mm. My 5mm x 2mm N52 magnets have about 1.25 N or kilograms of pull force (roughly 2.5 lbs). This may seem like overkill, but in reality, that optimal number only exists if you have your magnet making contact across the entire magnet, to another of itself. In reality, at best, you'll get about .75 kg of pull force from the magnet or roughly 1.5 lbs of pull force against your metal, and that's if you have perfect contact (which you likely will not!) and the golden standard for magnetizing anything model related is you want about 5x pull strength compared to the weight of your object. Since these minis typically weigh about let's say 20 grams, 5x that amount is 100 grams, so we are way in the overkill which is great! Especially when using the rubber steel magnetic sheets as you get far from optimal pull strength with those (but again, they have their advantages!) 4.5) How close a magnet gets to it's target is extremely important. Having 2 magnets split apart by 0.25 mm and touching is a significant distance due to formulas and physics. Splitting touching magnets = difficult even with these 5mm x 2mm magnets. Splitting them apart when there is a piece of paper between them? A little difficult. When they are seperated by .25mm? Practically no strength. 4.55) The reason I'm hammering the above point is because GW bases (relative to where you glue your magnets down, to where it makes contact) have a depth of about 2.2 to 2.6 mm of depth. This insignificant distance and difference between bases is typically what causes 6:35 to occur far too frequently for many, it's just a very small detail that's often overlooked, which the effect becomes far more pronounced on 40mm and larger bases. What I had to do was after gluing up the magnets, I took out my angle grinder, took out the sanding disc, and just clamped down the angle grinded with sanding disc, did not turn it on (too risque), and just manually sanded the bases down until I heard or saw that the magnet was slightly scratched or touching the sanded disc. I then rinsed and repeated... for my 200 model infantry only Death Korps of Krieg (it took several hours and my hand was not happy), but after this small detail, I can swing my box wildly, from side to side, same goes for my unit holders! (I'll place 2 links at the bottom) 5) The only thing I would advise about gluing the magnets, is that to *really* make sure they stay down, you want something more than just glue. JB Weld or Epoxy as shown as absolutely phenomenal, but what I ended up doing was: applying a little bit of super glue to the base directly, taking out essentially a 2mm sphere or smaller of liquid green stuff (a drop essentially) and put it on the glue, I then got my magnet and using plastic tweezers (or my fingers which I gave up doing after gluing about 200 magnets) I smushed it INTO the green stuff which spreads out (and also slightly elevates the magnet == less sanding base!) and then after sitting like that for a few seconds, applying an extra layer of super glue around the magnet further gluing the magnet to the green stuff, the green stuff to the base, etc, making essentially a very small volcano looking mound with a magnet at the top. I have never had a magnet come out of the base! Anyways, I'll post the links to my results here (for anybody interested): Super Useful Box + Rubber Steel: ruclips.net/video/18E5ABTlIPo/видео.html Unit Holder I designed with Rubber Steel at the bottom: ruclips.net/video/5zAm59d16X0/видео.html Again, I don't recommend using the rubber steel if you really want things to stick, especially sideways!!! But, if you approach using my methodology (just basic understanding of magnets + a bit of prep/research) you should be golden and it's much easier to work with! :)
@@CCMinis This is the comment i've been looking for! :) I don't seem to be able to find an exact equivalent at home depot tho... everything is a bit bigger and thicker.
It's funny the differences in store names from the states compared to Australia, Ali baba here is a Lebanese takeaway and Lowes is a older man's cloths shop
INSTANT Sub! Side note, what super glue do you use? I seem to ALWAYS struggle with mine and seeing how yours seems to drop out of the bottle with no issues is blowing my mind.
Yeah right. I finished that army and slayed the grey. Only that is not the only army I have and my primary choice still has models to build. But I can't do them because I have an army from another games system only about a third of the way finished. Not to mention the what if scenario of Regiment of US marines vs 3 Tumens of Mongols, 30,000 pending painting.
Excellent view count on this video so far! This was a fun and oh-so-smooth video... It kind of felt like I was invited back to someone's jazz-themed lair after midnight and was being seduced, which was unnerving. Thanks so much for the kind words and shoutout!!! Your box looks great!
Unfortunately they don't sell those Flashiing shingles as far as I can tell North of the 49th... but Good to know you cut it with only siscors... As I did find for $2.95 CAD per some Step Flashing which looks to be the same except it is L shaped and is 4x3x10.5" and theoretically I could cut it on the bend and or hammer it flat with a hammer I do own and then cut down to size for my box
You forgot to add in the cost of buying your wife new fabric scissors. I dared to use my mother's fabric shears on paper, my next several week's allowance went to replacing them. 25 years later I still remember that fabric shears are for fabric only.
Ahhhh always forget something!
Remember, like Eskimos have 50 some different names for snow and ice, so too do women have for scissors and their uses, there's one scissor only used during Thanksgiving, without it no one can eat turkey. Also women have hidden scissors and they charpen them everytime you we make small makes that nag at their pet peeves
Get some 8 in. Multi-Purpose Stainless Steel Scissors from harbor freight or wiss shears. My favorite shears for garden, kitchen, and the shop.
Using fabric scissors is like using your detail brush for drybrushing
@@horuslupercalaurelian1569 Got to be careful of the one's marked with a T
The galvanized flashing shingles are used as an added layer of waterproofing on valleys of roofs, sometimes used on walls that are taller than another roof, such as on an attached garage, though you want a 90 degree angle when used that way.
Haven’t played or painted in 13 years but channels like this make me want to get back into the hobby.
I remember going against a Custodes player who magnetized his bases and just used a steel sheet as the transport, what he did though was a paint job of marbling and gold leafing on the sheet to have the Aquila symbol.
That's a great way to do it!
Throwing these minis into the box actually hurt :D Great Video Nick, enjoyed it a lot!
Thanks Sergei! It hurt me too ... But I kinda liked it?
This was the technique I used to use and it's fantastic.
Goobertown Hobbies did a great video covering a ton of different methods to store minis and one he suggested was using small steel blanks (about a 1.25 inch disc) on the base of the mini and sticking a magnet to it, then putting it on a galvanized steel sheet. The magnetic bond is much stronger since it's between two pieces of metal and you don't have to worry about the magnet causing problems since it's stuck to the mini
That sounds like a great option!
My choice are Ikea Samla plastic boxes and magnetized self-sticking sheets ; this allows you to attach miniatures to the cover and keeps the box lightweight
Those galvanized shingles also make great movement trays. Just be sure to sand the edges.
The editing here is great. Not watched the whole video yet. But you secured the sub haha.
I HEAVILY recommend using the Really Useful Box brand. They are tough and if you get the XL boxes you can get one of their lipped trays to double up on the troops you can fit. I have 5-6k of slaves to darkness in 4 of their boxes, all magnetized with some galvanized steel riveted to the bottom of the boxes and trays. Right now their site is out of stock on the 19ltr XL and the 9ltr XL i used, but i'm sure they'll make more soon.
Seconding RUBs! They're a big brand in the UK at least. Grab some self-adhesive magnetic sheets and stick them on the bottom and you're gold! And they all stack VERY neatly!
Staples in the US has them. Also, Walmart sells document boxes in a similar size that make a good substitute. The 8.1 L Really Useful Box is exactly the right size for four ASOIAF units in their trays, which makes it incredibly easy to get them from storage case to table.
I get large metal sheets in the ductwork section at home depot. I line a box with foam core and mount the sheets onto the foam core before final assembly. I use spray adhesive to attach the metal to the foam core. I also cut the metal a little bit smaller than the foam core sheets (about 1/4" or so) so the sharp metal edges are kept farther away from body parts. The foam core can simply be a friction fit into the container or you can use your glue method but you really only need to glue the bottom since the foam core sides will be glued to the foam core bottom.
Sounds like a great way to do it!
You never win against the grey. They always come back.
... dear God you're right
Awesome video. Chill VO, straight to the point, no excessive info. Subbed.
Thanks bro, welcome!
God i love that box. Models on the walls is such a great visual.
I like the chill vibe you’re laying down 🤙🏻🤙🏻
Thanks Ryan!
I laughed so hard when you kicked the box into the car. Gotta subscribe!
Thanks Stefan!
A very clever solution, and well executed. Thanks for taking us along for the ride. It was a great video.
Thanks Lo-fi!
Magnet Baron sells some awesome magnets and bases that come with slots in them for the magnets! They're the best and would work PERFECTLY with what you describe in this video
Yea, those would work great!
I was going to mention the use of sodium bicarbonate so props for that. The use of flashing was clever as Ive seen others use magnetic sheets or magnetic primer. It also reminded me I have a large roll of steel used for wrapping window trim & that will work well for my 'mech dolls.
I've been trying to work out how to do a transport box without things like a rivet tool, so this certainly helps. The trick I use for magnetizing the bases is to put a small dollop of UV resin (like for home made jewelry) and hit it with a UV lamp/light for about 5 minutes.
That's a great idea!
Love the laid back style. keep it up brother!
Thanks daaawg
Great video, I have never been more enthralled by your pacing and such a wonderful tone. Subscribed, and liked good sir, thank you very much!
Thank you so much Benjamin! Really appreciate it =]
I'd never even considered this. Thanks for the tip, Nick!
Happy to help!
Great ideas! Double-sided 3M automotive tape is incredible for attaching magnets to bases and sheet steel to containers. It is expensive, but it saves you time. Which makes it cheap!
Great tip!
Yeah, I got fed up trying to get polypropylene to stick to duct steel. The 3M tape works much better.
I use those self adhesive magnetic sheets, cut them into circles then stick them on the bottom. Put into metal toolboxes and bam, best carrying case ever.
Thats a good solution!
In SEA, they sell biscuits in giant, rectangular tins with square lids. One good example being the Khong Guan brand of Top Choice biscuits with a 2 lb capacity, which my grandmother bought lots of.
For $10, it's a great way to have afternoon tea and an army storage box.
That sounds perfect!
In the u.k we have boxes called 'really useful boxes' and then just stick magnetic sheets on them that are flexible. Costs about £10 to make 1 or $12 in U.S money. They also have clip lock lids and stack well. A much cheaper option if you can get them.
I've seen those! I think they are like $20 a pop in the states tho, still a great option
@@CCMinis depending on what parts of America you are in - Office Depot sells them for $14 in some of the South, I’ve seen them for more on the Coasts.
love the style of this video! very helpful as well
Glad you liked it!!
Mason jars full of water. Put in as many models as fit. Shake until settled. Put in more to top up. When playing dump entire contents out as an "environmental hazard" for a neat way to enter the battle and insure never receiving an invite to return.
I have concerns, but I am also very interested
I used Duncan Rhodes' method but this is a good alternative too, very nice!
i haven't seen you're channel before, but this video was epic cant wait for more !
Welcome!
does anybody remember...i think it was the ctrl alt delete comic. where it was shown, the best way to transport your armies is, one plastic bag.
Wut
it was an old comic. the main character was extremly hyped about warhammer40k. but quickly lost interest in it. so he put all his minis in one bag and left the bag in his car....they more or less "bonded" together in one "gigant" ball...
This is my new favorite hobby channel. Thank you, Nick, for such an amazing video!
Thanks! Glad you are enjoying the videos
Don't worry everyone, you can use this method even if your mini's are still grey.
I do not condone this, but yes
Yes!! 😂
Man, I just today discovered your channel, and I wanted to say that your videos are fantastic. I love the way they're edited, it reminds me of Studson Studio's videos.
Thank you so much Tyler! Really appreciate it =]
Love it... expect to see me shamelessly steal this in about 6 months :) great video as always
Sounds good, I'll steal your warhammer in a travel case idea as well ;)
@@CCMinis deal
I think this is best budget technique. I use clear double sided mounting tape. It's not as smelly as epoxy and does the trick since it's usually rates for 10-50lbs. You can grab a roll from the dollar store for cheap.
0:50
The edit of woody being launched into the back of the car… beautiful.
* insert pacha perfection meme here.
To see this video suggested to me just as I found myself needing it is a blessing lol thanks man!
Glad I could help!
i highly recommend centralizing the location of the magnet. Moving a blob of models around is a real pain if you stick them near the edges and they start grabbing on to one another.
Dude its been a journey - you made a sub outta me with this one
Thanks!
I've never subscribed faster to anyone ever. Love your style
Thanks and welcome!
Highly recommend really useful box's they're sold at office depot
Another good tip - hotglue or noncrystalizing superglues work better for holding magnets on the bottom of bases - especially for those who experience winter as the differential expansion between trad. superglue and magnets cause them to pop off. (found this out recently, I too used to glob tons of superglue to stick the magnets)
Great tip! Thanks for sharing A B
plastic glue and sprue bits (sprue glue) works. A nice and thick batch will seal the magnet right into the base. Just dont use too much at one time with larger bases that need multiple magnets as it could melt/warp the base's plastic itself.
I didnt try it yet. But some people recommended using Green Stuff or something similiar so there is no space between the magnet and the floor. And then pretty much drown everything in super glue. Hotglue might work but in my experience its not the best thing to hold something in place forever. Maybe it depends on the type of hot glue, I have no clue :D.
Support me on Patron if you want, or don't, your call: www.patreon.com/CCminis
i felt very chill just watching this haha love it
Great video. Wish I'd seen this years ago before I got too deep into my current storage solution. Haha.
One thing to note for people using this technique:
If you intend to fly to a huge tournament, and this transport method is used, and it has a lid, the TSA will need to open the box to check inside as the x-ray may not be able to see through it.
Those other cases may be expensive, but if the end result is that your mini's don't get molested by airport security, then the cost is mitigated. After all, if the TSA has to look in, they may damage the mini's inadvertently... And that's not something you want to have happen.
That's a great point!
I was lucky and got one of the big foam suitcases for free. Love it for transport, but this definetly seems neat too. Might try it if i ever need more transport boxes
Foam is usually everyone's starter. But it is so much faster to drop your models onto a metal plate and you dont have to worry about pieces getting stuck on the foam.
My group's goto is the ikea Kvissle + magnetising the bases. Works really well and retails for $25
That looks like a great option!
Safe&Sound makes boxes for miniatures that have metal bottoms/tops/sides, whatever you want. A big box with metal sheets in the top and bottom costs a bit over 30€. Not too sure if you can get them from outside Europe too well though
Haha great and fun video. Ah, magnets my greatest foe (glue them to my fingers, drop them).
Instead of super glue or greenstuff, I recommend a hot glue gun for making a nice durable attachment. Put the magnet on a nice blob of glue, and then immediately press it down to an unpainted steel plate. The magnet will pull itself to the surface - ensuring a nice, flush, maximum-strength magnetic field - and the hot glue will fill the space between the magnet and the base. If the surface is clean and flat, the model will pop right off when cooled and the glue will leave no residue. I've never had a magnet break off when glued on like this. Best of all, the whole process takes very little effort and leaves no mess.
Fantastic video Nik!! I never thought of using steel plates in a bin to make magnets stick, brilliant!
Also your editing is so freaking good! The story flows so well and everything is really clean. I aspire to be at this level one day 💪
Thanks so much Geordie! Really appreciate it =]
So true, magnetic sheets aren’t nearly strong enough to utilize the sides
Awesome video. You forgot to put the neodyn...neoduh...neeodum... the magnets on the Total. Other than that, great idea for transport, as long as you don't hit the box too much, it should be fine. Maybe sticking the box inside one of them transport cases...
Thanks! And yea... I forgot the hot glue too, whoops
I used a draw from my freezer and now my frozen food rolls round which is fun.
Thank you! My friend and I just got into 40K and I'm terrified of breaking anything so this is a great help.
Glad it helped!
Another option is just painting the inside of the box with magnetic paint. Or using a metal bottle such as a large open toolbox or metal storage box.
Absolutely! Have you given this a try in the past? How long does magnetic paint take to dry? And do you have to put it on thick?
@CC Minis I haven't done it myself, but I have seen videos about it. I plan to give it a try. Its a fairly thick paint, so just needs a good coat. I don't know about drying time. It may be worth a look into if you are interested. I was going to try it on a test plastic plate first and go from there.
@@CCMinis magnetic paint is full of smushed up iron. it's really thick and goopy and needs to be mixed really well.
Three thin coats should do it but more coats is more iron for magnets to stick to.
I'd give it at least a day to dry and you can paint over it but that reduces the already somewhat meager (compared to a metal sheet) effectiveness
What a compelling and brilliant video. Simple, fun, entertaining - and excellent clip-switch-rate. Dude, were i super rich i would hire you to do my videos. In fact, am looking forward to sticking simple magnets to the bottoms of my minis and sticking them everywhere metallic. If you drive away with minis stuck all over your car, you can safely assume it is my fault - and police officers will know where to send the restraining order.
Thanks Grimm! I'll take a screenshot of this for evidence 👍
I sliced my finger with fabric scissors once. We stole them from my friends mom and she wasn't happy. Good video bro!
Thanks bro beans! I hope your finger is ok
Great video, love the chilled vibe, nice editing and really informative - you got a new sub!
Thanks, welcome!
I put my minis in a box of ferrets, didn't work out so well.
Wait... for the minis or the ferrets?
Friendly recommendation you should add links to like an Amazon thing for the materials for those who don't have any local hardware shops or are just to lazy.
You sir, have a great point
@CC Minis keep it up bud...if you need any kit bashing ideas im your person. I have a fully converted Chaos Sisters army XDXD
1st video I've watched from you and thank you for the great content 👍. I subbed and hit the icon dood!
Thanks snort! Welcome
I just got back from adeptacon and saw this box and that nurgle.
Righteous! AOS Grand Championship?
@@CCMinis I think, was not playing just saw it walking the halls
@@cup0ffun275 Righteous, if you saw an awkward man holding it, there's a 70% chance it was me
Possible for you to maybe link an amazon list to some of the items like the box or which textured spray paint you used?
Rustoleum hammered steal I think? Honestly everything is significantly more expensive online - well worth a trip to the hardware store
I use a similar technique, except due to my multiple, and curious pets, the open top posed a risk (for some reason my cats loved sleeping in them, and my doggos thought they were chew toys)
another product that works wonders is a cheap toolbox (about 14AUD for a small red toolbox from the local hardware store) this provides a lid to add extra protection! its already metal so no need to modify :)
plus an added bonus of having a spot for a padlock if you have curious children ;)
Great tip!
The square plastic bins from Target often do have lids available as well. If not the clear ones, the white ones definitely do.
your videos are amazing. they are so bingey and i just cant wait for more releases from you. keep it up! :D
Love it, I've used this for my dnd minus for ages it's great 👍
Heck yea! How do they hold up long term?
@@CCMinis really well tbh, i even incorp bit of a similar metal sheet in some terrain so minis can climb walls/ladders and things. Thanks for sharing though more people should know about this trick.
Great video! The end result looks great and is practical AND cheap! you ticked all the...boxes 😅
Thanks BP!!
Magnets are cool
Aye you're cool Funky!
You mentioned models slide. I take it the textured paint was used on the flashing to help with that? Thanks. Nice video.
Yup! It helped a ton
awesome video very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Subbed! Educational video, easy enough that even I can DIY. Plus it was funny af 😂
Only problem with those shingles is . Like the bigger the magnet they better it holds, the thicker steel you have the better it holds.
So maybe ok for gentle movement and storage. Probably not enough if you have to haul the box in anyway it might get knocked. Doubling or tripling up the sheets might provide enough metal that you get a really secure grip. I have been using cheap steel rulers fastened to an inside of a box ,, that gives 1 to 2 mm thickness of steel. Ikea also have some great steel trayed document boxes , with metal 4 shelves, no front cover though.
Magnetizing my warhammer has changed my whole perception of life
Everyone always hating on foam. Buy the right sized stuff and it won't break. Sure if you jam a pointy chaos terminator on a 40mm base in a classic foam sheet with 25mm holes it will break for sure. Buy foam with properly sized holes for your miniatures and it is completely fine. Ofcourse you have to plan ahead and when your entire army is different size of models it will get expensive really quick. But for armies with mostly the same size of mini's it's fine (guard). Pick & Pluck foam also allows you to store your boxy tanks perfectly without needing to drill holes for magnets in the tracks.
I recycle metal Cookie boxes for this purpose. And I glue 1 or 2 Cent coins below the model base and then I need only magnets for the models I intend to transport instead of just all. And the models with magnets don't react to each other on the battlefield.
Sounds like a great way to do it!
Man, you read my mind! I’d been looking for a box tutorial recently and you came right up.
One question on the last part, did you sand the shingles on the inside to make the minis not slide around as much?
Yup! I gave them a light sanding as well
Love the vid, thanks!
As that one guy who had too many issues with using magnets for transport, here is my 2 cents (I go in depth):
1) If you are purely going for budget and efficiency, this guide is actually pretty good advice and it doesn't get much better than this. However, due to looks, risk to health and other stuff that most of us wargamers really don't care too much about (let's be real), there are some improvements that can be made.
2) For example, many people use Duncan's 2 or 3 year old video where he uses "Really Useful Boxes" that use the magnetic rubber/steel sheets that can be easily cut into, present no harm on pointy edges, and all around are extremely easy to use, plus they don't look terrible when glued down! You can even purchase them in the same size as the box (essentially) as the box is meant for A4 sized paper, and the magnetic sheets can come in A4 sized sheets. The downside to these rubber sheets is that they aren't very powerful. To simplify (and slightly inaccurately represent) how magnets work, magnets have a polarity. When they find an opposite polarity, they REALLY want to get close to that polarity, i.e. literally the side with more electrons (negatively charged). With these rubber steel sheets they usually have some in there that is meant to act as a magnet (one side has more electrons than the other, hence they naturally act as magnets) but they also don't have much metal in them, meaning that a regular piece of metal (which is chockful of, well, metal) the atoms of the metal align themselves and act like a magnet and do a much better job! The main downside to using metal is that it's much heavier (Which doesn't seem like much, but if you're one of the Warhammer players who has broken the 5 digit point marker a while ago, weight matters! Especially during transportation), risk of cutting/getting cut (children or clumsiness) and all around just not as easy to handle or use. With that being said, it works much better with magnets!
3) There is a big difference in magnets, and at the same time, hardly any at all! xD Essentially, Rare Earth magnets are, well, great materials to be used for magnets! Neodymium magnets (you got it almost perfect on the pronunciation, just change the n to an m (you said neody'n'ium)) are essentially the "creme de la creme" of Rare Earth magnets, and the best materials for making magnets (that are currently known, beyond doing stupid stuff such as freezing magnets to near sub-zero temperatures and making super-conductors). Essentially, Neodymium is the best, but also keep in mind that there are different grading and ratings for Neodymium magnets! They typically range from N32 all the way up to N52. Essentially, bigger number == better! Now, keep in mind that the difference in magnet pull strength between N32 and N52 is significant, anywhere from 30-50% more pull force, but the difference between N50 and N52? Or even N48 to N52? We're basically hassling over a small percentage. Essentially, go Neodymium, preferable at least N42+. Typically N50+ is a bit more expensive, but if you are like me and found that 1 amazon Chinese seller who sold 500 N52 Neodymium magnets (I checked, they're N52!) for $30, you are absolutely *GOLDEN*, otherwise it's not a big deal.
4) What matters most on magnets is always *surface area* and how close it actually gets to what it's attracted to. Firstly, you want as much surface area to be as close as possible to the target. For this reason, I wouldn't recommend buying magnets with a diameter of no lose than 5 mm. My 5mm x 2mm N52 magnets have about 1.25 N or kilograms of pull force (roughly 2.5 lbs). This may seem like overkill, but in reality, that optimal number only exists if you have your magnet making contact across the entire magnet, to another of itself. In reality, at best, you'll get about .75 kg of pull force from the magnet or roughly 1.5 lbs of pull force against your metal, and that's if you have perfect contact (which you likely will not!) and the golden standard for magnetizing anything model related is you want about 5x pull strength compared to the weight of your object. Since these minis typically weigh about let's say 20 grams, 5x that amount is 100 grams, so we are way in the overkill which is great! Especially when using the rubber steel magnetic sheets as you get far from optimal pull strength with those (but again, they have their advantages!)
4.5) How close a magnet gets to it's target is extremely important. Having 2 magnets split apart by 0.25 mm and touching is a significant distance due to formulas and physics. Splitting touching magnets = difficult even with these 5mm x 2mm magnets. Splitting them apart when there is a piece of paper between them? A little difficult. When they are seperated by .25mm? Practically no strength.
4.55) The reason I'm hammering the above point is because GW bases (relative to where you glue your magnets down, to where it makes contact) have a depth of about 2.2 to 2.6 mm of depth. This insignificant distance and difference between bases is typically what causes 6:35 to occur far too frequently for many, it's just a very small detail that's often overlooked, which the effect becomes far more pronounced on 40mm and larger bases. What I had to do was after gluing up the magnets, I took out my angle grinder, took out the sanding disc, and just clamped down the angle grinded with sanding disc, did not turn it on (too risque), and just manually sanded the bases down until I heard or saw that the magnet was slightly scratched or touching the sanded disc. I then rinsed and repeated... for my 200 model infantry only Death Korps of Krieg (it took several hours and my hand was not happy), but after this small detail, I can swing my box wildly, from side to side, same goes for my unit holders! (I'll place 2 links at the bottom)
5) The only thing I would advise about gluing the magnets, is that to *really* make sure they stay down, you want something more than just glue. JB Weld or Epoxy as shown as absolutely phenomenal, but what I ended up doing was: applying a little bit of super glue to the base directly, taking out essentially a 2mm sphere or smaller of liquid green stuff (a drop essentially) and put it on the glue, I then got my magnet and using plastic tweezers (or my fingers which I gave up doing after gluing about 200 magnets) I smushed it INTO the green stuff which spreads out (and also slightly elevates the magnet == less sanding base!) and then after sitting like that for a few seconds, applying an extra layer of super glue around the magnet further gluing the magnet to the green stuff, the green stuff to the base, etc, making essentially a very small volcano looking mound with a magnet at the top. I have never had a magnet come out of the base!
Anyways, I'll post the links to my results here (for anybody interested):
Super Useful Box + Rubber Steel: ruclips.net/video/18E5ABTlIPo/видео.html
Unit Holder I designed with Rubber Steel at the bottom: ruclips.net/video/5zAm59d16X0/видео.html
Again, I don't recommend using the rubber steel if you really want things to stick, especially sideways!!! But, if you approach using my methodology (just basic understanding of magnets + a bit of prep/research) you should be golden and it's much easier to work with! :)
Thanks for the thorough explanation Darius!
@@CCMinis I like the channel, expecting great things :)
Just found your channel. Great stuff-subbed!
Thank you and welcome!
best storage solution for Warhammer models is your trash bin. The method shown here works for every decent game though.
"These can be bought at a... store" lol
Another perfect 5/7, Brendan… I mean Nick
Always appreciated, Robert =]
Shingles are a typeof roof covering, but these are unusually thin
Yea they are "shingle flashing" not sure what its for, but its not a normal shingle
@@CCMinis This is the comment i've been looking for! :)
I don't seem to be able to find an exact equivalent at home depot tho... everything is a bit bigger and thicker.
I just bought one of those big christmas cookie tin boxes for 5 bucks, fits all my skeletons, but very cool video :P
Those tins work great too!
It's funny the differences in store names from the states compared to Australia, Ali baba here is a Lebanese takeaway and Lowes is a older man's cloths shop
You are blowing my mind Julian! What's your big box hardware store called?
Great idea!
Thanks Wulven!
Just buy a metal tool box and magnetize the minis. Also get super glue accelerator.
Certainly a good option!
Also look for the magnetic strength, n54 i think
That's good to know - thanks!
0:45 I'm calling the Police
You'll never take me a live copper
Cool vid subscribed 😎
Aye thanks Harrison!
INSTANT Sub! Side note, what super glue do you use? I seem to ALWAYS struggle with mine and seeing how yours seems to drop out of the bottle with no issues is blowing my mind.
Thanks! And starbond medium - the 4 oz version comes with 2 caps!
As great as the advice is can we all give a shoutout to that editing though…
Thanks Sci! Really really appreciate it =]
Yeah right. I finished that army and slayed the grey. Only that is not the only army I have and my primary choice still has models to build. But I can't do them because I have an army from another games system only about a third of the way finished. Not to mention the what if scenario of Regiment of US marines vs 3 Tumens of Mongols, 30,000 pending painting.
Excellent view count on this video so far! This was a fun and oh-so-smooth video... It kind of felt like I was invited back to someone's jazz-themed lair after midnight and was being seduced, which was unnerving.
Thanks so much for the kind words and shoutout!!! Your box looks great!
Aye thanks T-Nu, this one kinda blew up! You're welcome to visit my lair any time
S class vid, thanks for this so much 🎉🎉🎉🙏🙏💯💯💯
Glad you enjoyed it
I fucking lost it when you kicked the box into the car :D
Hahaha that was fun to film
Unfortunately they don't sell those Flashiing shingles as far as I can tell North of the 49th... but Good to know you cut it with only siscors... As I did find for $2.95 CAD per some Step Flashing which looks to be the same except it is L shaped and is 4x3x10.5"
and theoretically I could cut it on the bend and or hammer it flat with a hammer I do own and then cut down to size for my box
Metal toolboxes exist. Some with drawers. It would even have a handle.
Yes