If you put the oil paint on a paper towel, allow to sit 4-5 hours minimum, it dries much faster. The towel absorbs the linseed oil allowing the paint to dry quicker. I’ve went as long as 24 hours with excellent results. Great video, watched many of your clips, excellent.
That is awesome. Exactly what I needed to weather up some CP boxcars and hoppers. I see this weathering pattern everywhere. Thx so much for another excellent video.
Nice video and great results with the sponge. Did you apply the paint straight over the factory finish? I've had trouble getting paint to stick to a factory finish in the past.
That looks great, and much easier than I would have expected it to be. I'm glad to have discovered your channel! One thing I noticed you doing but not talking much about, that the "Boomer Diorama | River Railroad" channel mentioned on his recent oil-paint video: When you put the paint on some paper like that, the paper pulls some of the oil out of the paint, concentrating the pigment, and that makes it work better in techniques like this.
Great simple technique! Will have to bookmark these videos you do, I'll be weathering up a group of 15 covered hoppers soon (data only's from Accurail that I'm putting my own fictional road names onto). Keep up the great work, these tricks are super helpful to learn!
Hi Dan, here is Billy from Brazil. I have watch your videos, it's amazing. But now, I'd like to know if you have some videos weathering models using airbrush. If it is possible, could you post some for us? Tanks for your time, and congrats for your work.
Nice job Dan, came out real cool. Can you do a video on streaking, using oil on sponge but pulling straight down, as opposed to the blotting technique? I'm always challenged by the rust streaking. Take care - Bill
Nice job from a new subscriber. I've done similar weathering using gouache. I thought oils needed mineral spirit to blend, but I see yours say Water Mixible. Are they similar to gouache? Thanks.
Do you flat coat the car before adding the rust affects? I assume that you flat coat between different layers. Thanks for sharing your experience. I know it represents the results of your own experimentation. As always, a fantastic video!
Dan, can you clear up something for me: 1.) Is "clear coating" the same as "dull coating"? 2.) I'm considering buying a bottle/can of Gloss Clear Coat - Hobby and Model Lacquer Paint so, is this what I should use to clear coat my new models right out of the box before I start weathering? 3.) When should I apply dull coat? 4.) I've heard it said to wash a new car in warm soapy water to get any injection molding flash remaining on the model? Is that necessary?
Nice video Dan. The rust effect came out very nice. It's amazing how the sponge can achieve such a good effect. Would this also work with Acrylic paints as well provided that they are slightly thinned down? - Nicholas.
Something like this would probably work with acrylics, but I doubt it would work nearly as well. What makes this controllable is that the paint is fairly thick (and it's just that there's not much on the sponge), and acrylic paints tend to dry pretty quickly when they're in that state. The "Boomer Diorama | River Railroad" channel recently had a good video on the properties of oil paints that make them especially good for this kind of technique.
I do like that technique with the sponge. I make my own rust powder by putting about 3 or 4 rolls of 0000 steel wool in a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it in the window for about a couple of months. After the steel wool is pretty much dissolved I pour the mixture in a flat pan (one of my old stainless steel photo processing pans - 11x14) and wait for it to completely dry. You could use a glass baking dish. Then I use a single edge razor blade and pulverize the rust into a fine powder and store it in a little (snuff) can. When I get ready to use it on a piece of rolling stock I usually use my X-acto (AproXimo) knife and make gouges in the sides of the car. Then I fill the gouge with my rust. It really looks real, 'cause it is REAL rust. The rust powder is usually mixed with some distilled water, a little alcohol and water soluble glycerin and paint it on or use a little spatula to put it on. Then I use a final topcoat of clear matte acrylic topcoat. Cheers from eastern TN
Wonder what brand you're using now that Anita's is gone? So many of the paints are horrible. The more expensive tubes etc aren't good for weathering. Too wet, oily...not the same dry look.
“Ridiculous Preciseness”
The new phrase of 2023 by Dan the Man!
Another incredible video!
Always look forward to your next post!
Dan, an excellent video regarding adding rust weathering to a car. Very easy steps, and a superb presentation.
You are the Top G of weathering!
Outstanding short clinic narration and presentation as always!
Outstanding! Good to know especially for already painted things.👍
You my friend have taken weathering to another level!!! Your cars look amazing!! THANK YOU for sharing!!!
BES T RESOURCE FOR WEATHERING, HANDS DOWN!! Thank you Dan!!
Great technique for creating the rust effect. Thanks for sharing.
That looks awesome
Excellent technique. Gonna try it.
Thank you Dan, for all your tutorials … great work
Awesome technique. Thanks for sharing your skills!!!
Thats an amazing technique Dan! im going to try it on the top of some tank cars! thanks for this!
Cheers Wade
Will be trying this next week. I tried it on a paper envelop and it looked great
If you put the oil paint on a paper towel, allow to sit 4-5 hours minimum, it dries much faster. The towel absorbs the linseed oil allowing the paint to dry quicker. I’ve went as long as 24 hours with excellent results. Great video, watched many of your clips, excellent.
Very nice! Thanks for demonstrating this technique.
Beautiful job, thanks for sharing.
Awesome video man, always look forward to your great content.
That is awesome. Exactly what I needed to weather up some CP boxcars and hoppers. I see this weathering pattern everywhere. Thx so much for another excellent video.
Great technique. Artist oils are my go to weathering medium.
Love the fading away effect.
Will try this for sure 👍
You are a blessing to model railroading 👍
OUTSTANDING!!!
Really nice result I'll be trying this. Look forward to the rest of the weathering tips on this Hopper.
I just got interested in weathering, so ill be starting with the cheap tyco cars to practice
another excellent video shale for the eyes 👌
Great video! Can’t wait to see another layout update.
Nice work. I use oils and a little 70% alcohol for a drippy effect. works for me.
Everytime nice and great videos.
Thx for that
German greets
scotti
Nicely done. Great teaching lesson.
love these dan
oh i like this technique... thanks for posting...
Thanks for educate me with your channel. I don’t do model train cars tho I design train liveries on a videogame Train Sim World 2.
Nice video and great results with the sponge. Did you apply the paint straight over the factory finish? I've had trouble getting paint to stick to a factory finish in the past.
That looks great, and much easier than I would have expected it to be. I'm glad to have discovered your channel!
One thing I noticed you doing but not talking much about, that the "Boomer Diorama | River Railroad" channel mentioned on his recent oil-paint video: When you put the paint on some paper like that, the paper pulls some of the oil out of the paint, concentrating the pigment, and that makes it work better in techniques like this.
Great video! Did you spray on dull coat first?
Neat trick I learned from you
Thanks for the lesson.
Great simple technique! Will have to bookmark these videos you do, I'll be weathering up a group of 15 covered hoppers soon (data only's from Accurail that I'm putting my own fictional road names onto). Keep up the great work, these tricks are super helpful to learn!
Dude you have to try the Distress Oxide I been doing my own test and it works beautiful
Hi Dan, here is Billy from Brazil. I have watch your videos, it's amazing. But now, I'd like to know if you have some videos weathering models using airbrush. If it is possible, could you post some for us? Tanks for your time, and congrats for your work.
Instant Sub...thank you!
Brilliant
I have really good luck with PanPastel artist's pastels on my N Scale cars. Then a light application of Testors Dullcote does the trick !
Which varnish do you apply on oil paint afterwards?
Thank you sir I appreciate it go video
@Dan, excellent idea. How long would a covered hopper be in service to develop this rustyness? (How old is the prototype photo?)
That does look really good, Dan. It’s amazing how such a simply bit of work makes the model look so much more “real”.
Nice job Dan, came out real cool. Can you do a video on streaking, using oil on sponge but pulling straight down, as opposed to the blotting technique? I'm always challenged by the rust streaking. Take care - Bill
Nice job from a new subscriber. I've done similar weathering using gouache. I thought oils needed mineral spirit to blend, but I see yours say Water Mixible. Are they similar to gouache? Thanks.
you should design graffiti decals - that would look cool
What pens do you use for doing the custom graffiti?
Great technique and good ideas, So, whose your favorite drummer? I'm a Steve Gadd guy but there are many other great drummers out there.
Tough one, Bonham, Copeland, Bill Ward, so many to list!
Thank you for mentioning Ward!
Do you flat coat the car before adding the rust affects? I assume that you flat coat between different layers.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I know it represents the results of your own experimentation. As always, a fantastic video!
Yes, I will before, and after!
Dan, can you clear up something for me: 1.) Is "clear coating" the same as "dull coating"? 2.) I'm considering buying a bottle/can of Gloss Clear Coat - Hobby and Model Lacquer Paint so, is this what I should use to clear coat my new models right out of the box before I start weathering? 3.) When should I apply dull coat? 4.) I've heard it said to wash a new car in warm soapy water to get any injection molding flash remaining on the model? Is that necessary?
Yes, when I say clear coat, I always mean dull coat unless I specify gloss clear.
I've seen covered hopper cars that are really beat up
Nice video Dan. The rust effect came out very nice. It's amazing how the sponge can achieve such a good effect. Would this also work with Acrylic paints as well provided that they are slightly thinned down? - Nicholas.
Something like this would probably work with acrylics, but I doubt it would work nearly as well. What makes this controllable is that the paint is fairly thick (and it's just that there's not much on the sponge), and acrylic paints tend to dry pretty quickly when they're in that state. The "Boomer Diorama | River Railroad" channel recently had a good video on the properties of oil paints that make them especially good for this kind of technique.
Where do you buy sponges like that ?
Thanks.
CVS pharmacy, Walmart, really anywhere!
Thank you Sir.
I do like that technique with the sponge. I make my own rust powder by putting about 3 or 4 rolls of 0000 steel wool in a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it in the window for about a couple of months. After the steel wool is pretty much dissolved I pour the mixture in a flat pan (one of my old stainless steel photo processing pans - 11x14) and wait for it to completely dry. You could use a glass baking dish. Then I use a single edge razor blade and pulverize the rust into a fine powder and store it in a little (snuff) can. When I get ready to use it on a piece of rolling stock I usually use my X-acto (AproXimo) knife and make gouges in the sides of the car. Then I fill the gouge with my rust. It really looks real, 'cause it is REAL rust. The rust powder is usually mixed with some distilled water, a little alcohol and water soluble glycerin and paint it on or use a little spatula to put it on. Then I use a final topcoat of clear matte acrylic topcoat. Cheers from eastern TN
p̲r̲o̲m̲o̲s̲m̲ 🍀
Wonder what brand you're using now that Anita's is gone? So many of the paints are horrible. The more expensive tubes etc aren't good for weathering. Too wet, oily...not the same dry look.
great video, could you put a link to your insta as im having trouble finding it
instagram.com/dan_e._dankenson/