The front unibody holes that you have to tap are left over from where the cross member mounted for the BA10 junk. Learned that when converting an 89 to AX-15.
you give loads of important information. I like it. I am based in South Africa, just bought my first Jeep project. I fabricate so I plan to build these types of items for our country as our exchange rate outprices it sadly. I am currently awaiting delivery of my Jeep. Its a 2004 WJ for the sole reason of the solid front axle. I will be checking your videos out. I like the way you share info. You dont just record, you educate. Well Done Bud...!!!
I put a BA 10 in my XJ Grand Cherokee wagon it came out with a automatic,I used the original cross member bolt holes,I am a qualified transmission manual and automatic repairer,the BA 10 rebuilt will long service without any problems,I have one in a XJ I converted to manual, something I say any manual box would blow with you crowd ham fisted and totally abusive to the box,I've converted the AX5 to a six they too will give good service after a rebuild,,jeeps can be hard to get manual transmissions for and expensive,quote a few have walked this route,if you want to find fault with something then you will,both boxes are pretty decent I have found,
That is Iron rocks old critical path long arm setup. I used to run it for years on my old XJ. it was a good kit but it was radius arm and not 3 link which would cause binding at full flex. This newer rock link kit is the far superior update to the old critical path kit.
@@albertliverman2572 you might contact iron rock about that from what I heard through the grapevine a couple years ago was that iron rock had an upgrade for the critical path kit where you cut the top wishbone portion off the left side link then they send the bracket to be able to run your modified lower link and their new upper link. Don’t know if it’s true but I did hear about it being an option at one point!
Not yet as I didn’t have a channel when I installed mine. However this friend that I installed the front ones on wants me to do the rears eventually so hopefully soon!
are those a row of Batteries standing on the concrete floor? I hope they scrap batteries as batteries do not like the concrete floor. I always use a wooden base or rubber mat under any batteries.
how do you feel about the joints iron rock uses on these kits, do they hold up over time or get sloppy fast, with daily driver in mind, not just a off road rig
I’ve been driving mine for several years now. Daily driving and hard wheeling. Never had a joint wear out yet. Just lube the flex joints on every oil change.
Question for you, I purchased the 3” rock link kit for my XJ. No SYE yet, will a transfer case drop work with this kit, or will I be required to purchase an SYE?
Depends on shop rates honestly. It’s about a 20-24 hour job in total. So times that by what your local shops rate would be and that would give you a close idea
Only clean to bare metal where you weld. After that I use weld through primer on both sides before welding. I love “steel it” but there are other brands. After that I seam sealed all the edges that could get water behind it. Then paint afterwords. A lot of people don’t do this and depending on where you live some don’t worry about rust. Me I’m paranoid about it and I live in Cali lol.
I am not sure i like only 3 bolts per side when the axle is being held on by the crossmember. Mine has 5 bolts per side. One of which goes all the way through the frame.
Idk I’ve been running the kit for years now with no issues man. Plus mine is tied in to the rear long arm cross member with the transfer case skid I made now which makes it even more rigid. Welding the mounts in is also an option because the trans mount is removable. But I don’t see it as necessary.
No somebody swapped it in this one before he bought it. Still better than the low pinion axle it originally came with but still a 2 piece tube design that is weaker. He did the delete plate and one piece axle shaft on it as well.
Plenty long for 37s hell even guys run 40s and 42s with one ton axles and these same links. If you watched the end of the video you’d see my jeep flexing with them and 37s
I think it might be because of his brown dog motor mounts but I’ve heard of other people having similar issues installing the older mount on the 00-01 as wells
@@mountaincrawlers8 that's good. Hey, I'm installing the 4 link rear now on mine as well, what did you do for your exhaust? Specifically the catalytic converter. I ordered the iron 4 link exhaust and it looks like it's meant as a cat back but my cat won't fit with the 4 link crossmember.
@@BrandonArent you’re going to have to get creative on that one I deleted all the cats on my 01 several years back. So I’m not much help on that sorry man! The rest of the guys on my channel running the rear 4 link don’t have cats either.
The front unibody holes that you have to tap are left over from where the cross member mounted for the BA10 junk. Learned that when converting an 89 to AX-15.
you give loads of important information. I like it. I am based in South Africa, just bought my first Jeep project. I fabricate so I plan to build these types of items for our country as our exchange rate outprices it sadly. I am currently awaiting delivery of my Jeep. Its a 2004 WJ for the sole reason of the solid front axle. I will be checking your videos out. I like the way you share info. You dont just record, you educate. Well Done Bud...!!!
Real nice set up.I almost went with the IRO kit but went with CavFab Alpha Series instead.
Same still waiting for mine 😢😂
I put a BA 10 in my XJ Grand Cherokee wagon it came out with a automatic,I used the original cross member bolt holes,I am a qualified transmission manual and automatic repairer,the BA 10 rebuilt will long service without any problems,I have one in a XJ I converted to manual, something I say any manual box would blow with you crowd ham fisted and totally abusive to the box,I've converted the AX5 to a six they too will give good service after a rebuild,,jeeps can be hard to get manual transmissions for and expensive,quote a few have walked this route,if you want to find fault with something then you will,both boxes are pretty decent I have found,
Great video! Great explanation! Thanks for the good review!
Love your products! Keep up the good work 🤘
I’ve got the same kit! I’ll have to look into that flex joint… haven’t even checked my axle side bushing… 😂
Mine would start to clunk when it goes bad lol
Mean with the spray paint on the gearbox mount
I just purchased a Xj with I guess would be there older 3 link kit because it has there logo on the left link.
That is Iron rocks old critical path long arm setup. I used to run it for years on my old XJ. it was a good kit but it was radius arm and not 3 link which would cause binding at full flex. This newer rock link kit is the far superior update to the old critical path kit.
@@mountaincrawlers8
I wonder if I could just put links on the one side.
@@albertliverman2572 you might contact iron rock about that from what I heard through the grapevine a couple years ago was that iron rock had an upgrade for the critical path kit where you cut the top wishbone portion off the left side link then they send the bracket to be able to run your modified lower link and their new upper link. Don’t know if it’s true but I did hear about it being an option at one point!
Great install video. Do you have one for the rear?
Not yet as I didn’t have a channel when I installed mine. However this friend that I installed the front ones on wants me to do the rears eventually so hopefully soon!
are those a row of Batteries standing on the concrete floor? I hope they scrap batteries as batteries do not like the concrete floor. I always use a wooden base or rubber mat under any batteries.
Yes those are junk core batteries good batteries are always on a rack.
how do you feel about the joints iron rock uses on these kits, do they hold up over time or get sloppy fast, with daily driver in mind, not just a off road rig
I’ve been driving mine for several years now. Daily driving and hard wheeling. Never had a joint wear out yet. Just lube the flex joints on every oil change.
Question for you, I purchased the 3” rock link kit for my XJ. No SYE yet, will a transfer case drop work with this kit, or will I be required to purchase an SYE?
@@MrNcotton this kit comes with its own transfer case drop provided if you choose to use it.
I have a 2001 automatic with the centered style transmission mount. So just to be clear it won't fit the cross member without the older style mounts??
Yes according to iron rock you need to run the 99 and older transmission mount on this setup.
Nice video. Not including the parts, what is a reasonable labor cost to install full frame stiffener and long arm kit?
Depends on shop rates honestly. It’s about a 20-24 hour job in total. So times that by what your local shops rate would be and that would give you a close idea
Only 3 bolts per frame rail side hold the arm/crossmember?
Yep you can choose to weld it as well as the crossmember can be removed form the link mounts.
question what keeps the unibody from rusting behind the stiffener?
Only clean to bare metal where you weld. After that I use weld through primer on both sides before welding. I love “steel it” but there are other brands. After that I seam sealed all the edges that could get water behind it. Then paint afterwords. A lot of people don’t do this and depending on where you live some don’t worry about rust. Me I’m paranoid about it and I live in Cali lol.
@@mnvjim7900 I'm in Indiana so rust is a issue some what. I have a 99 xj just wandering about behind the two pieces of metal thanks
I am not sure i like only 3 bolts per side when the axle is being held on by the crossmember. Mine has 5 bolts per side. One of which goes all the way through the frame.
Idk I’ve been running the kit for years now with no issues man. Plus mine is tied in to the rear long arm cross member with the transfer case skid I made now which makes it even more rigid. Welding the mounts in is also an option because the trans mount is removable. But I don’t see it as necessary.
@@mountaincrawlers8i am sure the frame stiffeners make all the difference. I wouldn't do it without them.
@@ProjectXJ I have put this kit on jeeps before where the customer didn’t want stiffeners yet and I’d definitely have to agree
Did that 2001 come with a CAD axle?
No somebody swapped it in this one before he bought it. Still better than the low pinion axle it originally came with but still a 2 piece tube design that is weaker. He did the delete plate and one piece axle shaft on it as well.
Are they long enough for 37” or do I need to order longer links?
Plenty long for 37s hell even guys run 40s and 42s with one ton axles and these same links. If you watched the end of the video you’d see my jeep flexing with them and 37s
Hello,
Are those frame stiffeners weldable?
Yes I don’t believe I’ve seen any stiffeners that you aren’t supposed to weld.
Nice jeep..tq
what spare tire carrier and bumper is that?
I made it. You can check the full walk around video here ruclips.net/video/MoFZuIYXYUo/видео.html
My front driveshaft hits my cross member I didn’t install the lift
You need a minimum of 3” of lift for most long arm kits
@@mountaincrawlers8I needed offset transmission mount I got it all figured out
I just installed this kit on my 2001 with automatic and my transmission dropped right in.
I think it might be because of his brown dog motor mounts but I’ve heard of other people having similar issues installing the older mount on the 00-01 as wells
Didn’t cause any drive ability issues however. Just a PIA to install on this one.
@@mountaincrawlers8 that's good. Hey, I'm installing the 4 link rear now on mine as well, what did you do for your exhaust? Specifically the catalytic converter. I ordered the iron 4 link exhaust and it looks like it's meant as a cat back but my cat won't fit with the 4 link crossmember.
@@BrandonArent you’re going to have to get creative on that one I deleted all the cats on my 01 several years back. So I’m not much help on that sorry man! The rest of the guys on my channel running the rear 4 link don’t have cats either.
@@mountaincrawlers8 sound good, thanks for the info. I may end up doing the same as long as I don't get any engine codes.
Don’t forget the poor men’s plasma, turn the welder up to 11 and “ accidentally” burn through the entire bracket until is gone.