regarding the steering issue on one side: the steering linkages have a straight and a curved ball cup. according to the manual the curved ball cup connects to the front hub and the straight one to the steering plate. but it look like you have it switched around on the left side.
Great review and box stock setup tips. Mine shows up this week, and I can't wait to get this budget build started. They other thing a like about this rig is the blue aluminum bits. Red, purple, and black are everywhere except the blue MD, which is very expensive. I have been a TA fan since the RC10, and im glad to see them continuing to be a force in all forms RCs. Im looking forward to you getting some doors with the DC10.
@LegendsPizzaCo compared to a Yokomo SD/MD or Shark build, this will be a budget build. $299 for this kit is a steal compared to the RD and Revo. What do you consider a budget build?
@hyperc5249 a Sakura lol. I mean any kit is gonna need $300 in electronics. Nothing budget about it lol. To each their own. I understand there is more expensive kits than this. My rdx was cheaper but the SD and MD are more. I'm just making an observation lol
I'm definitely Team Associated and Yokomo guy. I'm curious if Associated consulted Yokomo on the design. They've partnered on designs for over 30yrs. I thought same about big front bulkhead braces but then remembered MST had major chassis flex issues in that area a few years ago. The whole chassis would twist 1/4" from the force of the servo trying to steer the wheels. They added a lot of bracing on next version. Associated Factory Team has optional carbon fiber composite parts for some models... arms, chassis braces, transmission cases, etc... They look like regular black plastic but stronger and 12% lighter. Hope they release for DC10
Awesome video.. I am 100% in camp 2. Been racing and trail trucking for 20 years and always been with AE for the most part. I have been officially supported by them for about the last 5. I knew this was coming and saw it was a sign to get. I’ve loved watching and following this scene and now want to learn all I can!!
Great review , I was waiting to see how the drivability would be, the chassis layout, and how economical electronics would respond on this chassis. I have a Team Associated touring car, and I know they build great products. Thanks for the informative view. Keep doing what you do we're watching....
I see whats causing your steering issue. The steering links need to be matching on both sides. Look at the steering links @7:43 and @ 8:14. On the left side the outer cup is straight and the inner is curved. On the right they are reversed. Its affecting your ackerman angle. Refference Page 16 for bag 7 step two of the manual. It wants the curved ball cup on the outside. That is why you are having to go past 100% on the remote.
I don’t drift, but I do run Associated buggies. If the steering on the drift car is anything like on the buggies, the link to the servo needs a thicker shim. In buggies we use either 2 or 3mm to get symmetrical steering left to right.
I don't know if anyone mentioned this in the comments yet. I fly a lot of RC, and I know that if I do any kind of sub trim to the servos a lot of times I have to adjust the endpoints as well to compensate.
@RoadsideRC I think it is a good point. Seriously because I've copied models from other models and sometimes I easily forget that the sub trims also get copied, and so setting up a new model will get you perplexed. And yes, I get it; you can easily adjust the turnbuckles on your car to center somethings out, but that doesn't mean the servo arm is perfectly 90° and centered out. I know you know that, I just thought it would've been a little more helpful to explain that circumstance in the video at that moment. My apologies. For anyone else who reads this comment. I don't even have an RC car yet, but I'm getting one. So I am clearly just speculating. I.e. I know nothing
Hey Troy, I’m building a budget ish yd2 sx3 for my first drift build. I am hoping you’ll be able to give me some advice on what kind of tyres I should get for just some smooth (not polished) concrete so I can get a feel for it all before I go to the track
Unfortunately, no. No two types of concrete are the same so suggesting the 1 right tire is basically impossible. That being said, Yokomo DRC are always a good starting spot, and then you can try others from there.
I agree with Troy on the tires, Id say pick DS Racing LF5 for slicker drifting to start, Reve D or LF3 tires for a bit grippier drift and see how they perform in your personal situation. Its quite fun to try new tires out on your fave surface as well. I mean, drifting is fun even if its testing tires, FTW :D
Yep - 100%! That is why I didn't stress over finding the "perfect" spring yet. Much more to do before dialing that in - and exactly why I mentioned the body weight in the video.
Thanks for the question! It is a common misconception. It actually takes a small amount of weight for the front end to do the job. These cars are 90% controlled by the rear end.
Thank you for an other great video Roadside,my DC10 will be here next week,I would like your recommendations on tyres to use on smooth concrete and also smoothish Asphalt and will get them order,keep the great video.s coming and I am sure Team AE will be a strong force in the drifting community
Hi there! Unfortunately, there isn't just "one" tire to easily recommend, as no two concretes, asphalts, etc are the same. What works on my concrete, with my layout, may not work for you. That being said - the good part is the tires are cheap! :) I would start with a set of these for the concrete: alnk.to/a43OGAw And a set of these for the asphalt: alnk.to/6IFq37W After running them for awhile (they will need to scuff in over a couple packs) you can then evaluate if you want a harder or softer tire. Good luck!
any issues with the rear shock ball cup ends hitting the ground before the chassis? heard that was a minor issue and not allowing full travel of the suspension and the front ball ups not allowing full droop cause they hit.
@@RoadsideRC wasnt sure, i seen some talking about that issue with the shock ball cup ends hitting the ground and not allowing full travel so figured id ask.
Great review as always. I'm ready to buy a DC10 lol. I do love my RDX tho. Quick question. Where did you get the track pieces you used to create the track? I'm ready to do this in my garage too. Thank you in advance
How is it after 1mth? Will u be doing another video on updated settings? I went to get myself one too and so far its been great but still needs work on the front end. Cant run it at my usual camber.. This thing runs really low camber. Not used to it
Hi there! I think the chassis drives GREAT actually. Very happy with it. I assembled it with the box-stock settings, except for their "alternate assembly" camber. If you are struggling with the front end, I would highly suggest putting it back to the stock alignment.
Your steering issues is t a remote issue the same thing happens on the yokomo md2.0 you need to adjust the rod between the servo and steering and make sure your all your turnbuckles are the same
At this point in time this chassis just looks to drive like any other chassis out there. They did a good job basing their "new" chassis on almost everything that's out and popular today. The YD2, RDX, D5, RDS etc etc... to some extent normal behavior for a scene... But I just got myself an Dlike LP86 because of how it breaks the mold and tries to do something new, with roots leading back to pan cars and simple chassis etc. Don't get me wrong, the DC10 seems to drive really nice, and many people will get it. But where's the innovation? Reminds me alot of the Tamiya TT01/02 days where every other manufacturer had to make something that looked like a knockoff in order to sell. Great video, and thanks for the first look!
Yes! 100% agree - this isn't breaking any new ground. But competition is a good thing. I didn't get an LP-86, but do have one of the DSD-1 on order. Fun to have something different.
Dude thats a pretty sick car! I actually use their Apex-II as my outdoor/asphalt 4WD drift car! Ive had it for years and I was wondering if they would ever made a dedicated drift chassis. The new Traxxas drift car is just a massive fail and way too weird to ever adopt XD.
Yes - 100%. There is no way to fine-tune the spring until the body is mounted - but the springs that were suggested appeared noticeably wrong - even from the instructions given.
What spacer set up did you use on the front upper arm spacing? Did you do the factory recommended "6mm in the front and 1 mm in the back" thanks in advance
Another great vid. How does the RDS compare to the AE car? Can Yokomo and RDX parts fit on the DC10 like the RDS? Exciting to have another player in the game.
Awesome! I think this may be the one... I had friends tell me get a yokomo or a mst. I told myself I want to be different and experience every up and downs myself with my Sakura d5. Now that I have this d5 dailed in, my friends are invisible now lol. I think this chassis may just be the one. Hopefully the aftermarket is booming on this bad boy
@@RoadsideRC just by the video it looks super promising. If I end up grabbing one I'll only need an esc and servo as I already got the receiver and spare 10.5t...i do feel like I want to make my Sakura an outdoor car and a new chassis as an indoor type car. If I build an indoor car, I'm buying the goods!
@@RoadsideRC question, have you tried the Sakura MR? If so, how would you compare it to the RR? I bought the rear motor mounts for my Sakura solely for the purpose of moving my battery back as my spur is in the way. Also bought the top mount for it as well. Even though my tune is dailed to my liking as an MR, I feel the added weight out back could help my tune out a bit more with more controlled sway. Kind of how you explained in one of the videos having that pendulum effect.
Thank you for sharing. Highly appreciate it now team associated came out with one and Traxxas came out with the 4-tec rear wheel drive drift car.😂 Everyone is getting into drifting😅
Thank you for all that you do. Newbie here. Just got into the hobby a couple weeks ago and your videos were always first to pop up. I’m learning so much even from your old content. Thank you again!!
Very encouraging to see how well this chassis performs with minimal tuning. This is the review I was waiting for, and I'm looking forward to seeing more running footage with the body and more tuning.
I wan't a cheap but good intro drifter.... This looks like the ticket.... BUT... The new traxxas drift car looks cool as well and have some pretty cool beginner settings I think might be good to learn with.... What to do! LOL
Yokomo RD2.0 is a slightly better choice than RDX - cheaper, less money required to put into it for improvement(adjustable links already included, gear differential instead of spool)
I put one on order at my local hobby shop. Hope I can get my hands on one! I'm not a TA off road runner.. but have had many many many TC3s and TC4s in my on road collection for years.. and have been patiently waiting for a release like this to get into drifting.
I do think there is some extra bulk up there. I think my first attempt is simply going to be removing weight from the components that are already there. We will see!
Respectfully id like to say the backround static noise is hard on the ears. I enjoy your videos you give good info and got this kit pretty fast. I appreciate that as i was very curious to see it up close. I think some audio engineering would really improve the videos tho.
Thanks for the feedback. I think there were two different noises. 1 is a fan to keep me cool. 2 is the fan on the ESC. Can you give me a time stamp where you hear it?
@@Joe_McGovern Hi Joe! That sound is the silly fan on the ESC. It is on eof the Accuvance fans - and it is LOUD. For part of the video, I actually unplugged it.
Super cool to see that the box stock alignment seems to be a super solid foundation for growth and making changes to individual preferences. I’m hoping someone local to me gets one and I can give it a whirl at the track. 🤙🏻
regarding the steering issue on one side: the steering linkages have a straight and a curved ball cup. according to the manual the curved ball cup connects to the front hub and the straight one to the steering plate. but it look like you have it switched around on the left side.
Good eye! I just went and looked at the car - and you are 100% right. I got the link on the left backwards.
THANKS!
Great review, exactly the thoughts I have had on mine! Keep up the great content
Thanks, will do!
Great review and box stock setup tips. Mine shows up this week, and I can't wait to get this budget build started. They other thing a like about this rig is the blue aluminum bits. Red, purple, and black are everywhere except the blue MD, which is very expensive. I have been a TA fan since the RC10, and im glad to see them continuing to be a force in all forms RCs. Im looking forward to you getting some doors with the DC10.
Thanks! Good luck with your build!
Budget build? Lol we have different ideas of what budget means lol.
@LegendsPizzaCo compared to a Yokomo SD/MD or Shark build, this will be a budget build. $299 for this kit is a steal compared to the RD and Revo. What do you consider a budget build?
@hyperc5249 a Sakura lol. I mean any kit is gonna need $300 in electronics. Nothing budget about it lol. To each their own. I understand there is more expensive kits than this. My rdx was cheaper but the SD and MD are more. I'm just making an observation lol
I'm definitely Team Associated and Yokomo guy. I'm curious if Associated consulted Yokomo on the design. They've partnered on designs for over 30yrs.
I thought same about big front bulkhead braces but then remembered MST had major chassis flex issues in that area a few years ago. The whole chassis would twist 1/4" from the force of the servo trying to steer the wheels. They added a lot of bracing on next version. Associated Factory Team has optional carbon fiber composite parts for some models... arms, chassis braces, transmission cases, etc... They look like regular black plastic but stronger and 12% lighter. Hope they release for DC10
Thanks!
I agree 100% - I really hope some folks release some carbon parts for this chassis!
Awesome video.. I am 100% in camp 2. Been racing and trail trucking for 20 years and always been with AE for the most part. I have been officially supported by them for about the last 5. I knew this was coming and saw it was a sign to get. I’ve loved watching and following this scene and now want to learn all I can!!
Awesome! If you have any questions - feel free to reach out!
@@RoadsideRC the DC10 group on FB has been extremely helpful…. And gentle on me.. LOL!
@@RoadsideRC is your garage floor prepped or just cleaned? What tires do you use…
Great review , I was waiting to see how the drivability would be, the chassis layout, and how economical electronics would respond on this chassis. I have a Team Associated touring car, and I know they build great products. Thanks for the informative view. Keep doing what you do we're watching....
Thanks!
The chassis really is quite good!
I see whats causing your steering issue. The steering links need to be matching on both sides. Look at the steering links @7:43 and @ 8:14. On the left side the outer cup is straight and the inner is curved. On the right they are reversed. Its affecting your ackerman angle. Refference Page 16 for bag 7 step two of the manual. It wants the curved ball cup on the outside. That is why you are having to go past 100% on the remote.
Yes! You nailed it! Good eye!
I don’t drift, but I do run Associated buggies.
If the steering on the drift car is anything like on the buggies, the link to the servo needs a thicker shim. In buggies we use either 2 or 3mm to get symmetrical steering left to right.
Ahhh!! Thanks for the tip. I appreciate it.
Very good review and agree with your viewpoint
Thank you!
I don't know if anyone mentioned this in the comments yet. I fly a lot of RC, and I know that if I do any kind of sub trim to the servos a lot of times I have to adjust the endpoints as well to compensate.
Good point!
@RoadsideRC I think it is a good point. Seriously because I've copied models from other models and sometimes I easily forget that the sub trims also get copied, and so setting up a new model will get you perplexed. And yes, I get it; you can easily adjust the turnbuckles on your car to center somethings out, but that doesn't mean the servo arm is perfectly 90° and centered out. I know you know that, I just thought it would've been a little more helpful to explain that circumstance in the video at that moment. My apologies. For anyone else who reads this comment. I don't even have an RC car yet, but I'm getting one. So I am clearly just speculating. I.e.
I know nothing
Hey Troy, I’m building a budget ish yd2 sx3 for my first drift build. I am hoping you’ll be able to give me some advice on what kind of tyres I should get for just some smooth (not polished) concrete so I can get a feel for it all before I go to the track
Unfortunately, no. No two types of concrete are the same so suggesting the 1 right tire is basically impossible.
That being said, Yokomo DRC are always a good starting spot, and then you can try others from there.
I agree with Troy on the tires, Id say pick DS Racing LF5 for slicker drifting to start, Reve D or LF3 tires for a bit grippier drift and see how they perform in your personal situation. Its quite fun to try new tires out on your fave surface as well. I mean, drifting is fun even if its testing tires, FTW :D
ive always had 4wd drift/touring cars, never a 2wd drift car but will be picking this one up later today, big fan of TA
Awesome! I hope you like it!
You can see the servo horn not moving the same distance in each direction before you set one side to 113
It is fixed now. An eagle-eyed viewer actually noticed a part I had on wrong!
Love it great addition to the drift community.
I think so too!
Steering might not be centred straight, possibly need to change length of servo turnbuckle?
The issue I had was because I had a turnbuckle mounted in a wrong hole.
Sharp eyed viewer noticed!
I’ve had my MST for a while. Never got the RedCat. But this kits from AE intrigues me. Another good overview
Thanks! I think this chassis has a lot of potential!
Setting springs without a body is a bit backwards.
Yep - 100%! That is why I didn't stress over finding the "perfect" spring yet. Much more to do before dialing that in - and exactly why I mentioned the body weight in the video.
Dang it Troy why you gotta do such good reviews lol now I want one for sure. Hmmm next budget build 🤔
Sounds like a good idea to me! :)
I’m a total newb to drifting. To me it would make sense to be front end heavy. When you’re drifting don’t you want to front end to stick to the track
Thanks for the question! It is a common misconception.
It actually takes a small amount of weight for the front end to do the job. These cars are 90% controlled by the rear end.
What springs are you running in the rear?
Just the factory springs.
@@RoadsideRC sorry I should have specified, as in the yellow ones or black ones in the back?
😊Looks like you need to re-center the servo saver on the servo horn.
Thank you for an other great video Roadside,my DC10 will be here next week,I would like your recommendations on tyres to use on smooth concrete and also smoothish Asphalt and will get them order,keep the great video.s coming and I am sure Team AE will be a strong force in the drifting community
Hi there!
Unfortunately, there isn't just "one" tire to easily recommend, as no two concretes, asphalts, etc are the same. What works on my concrete, with my layout, may not work for you.
That being said - the good part is the tires are cheap! :)
I would start with a set of these for the concrete: alnk.to/a43OGAw
And a set of these for the asphalt: alnk.to/6IFq37W
After running them for awhile (they will need to scuff in over a couple packs) you can then evaluate if you want a harder or softer tire.
Good luck!
what is the wheel base of this chassis?
Per the Team Associated page: 257mm
any issues with the rear shock ball cup ends hitting the ground before the chassis? heard that was a minor issue and not allowing full travel of the suspension and the front ball ups not allowing full droop cause they hit.
Honestly - not sure that is really an "issue". If our cars are bottoming out, there are bigger problems!
@@RoadsideRC wasnt sure, i seen some talking about that issue with the shock ball cup ends hitting the ground and not allowing full travel so figured id ask.
Love your content. I’ve learned so much. What tires do you prefer for in your shop?
Thanks!
I use various tires in the garage. Yokomo DRC, ReveD, or DS Racing LF2.
It does look like a cool kit for a racer used to there associated race cars to get into drifting with
Yes! I think so!
Where can I find the red and white track setup?
You can get it right here:
ruclips.net/video/ZYytUAVfXVk/видео.html
Great review as always. I'm ready to buy a DC10 lol. I do love my RDX tho. Quick question. Where did you get the track pieces you used to create the track? I'm ready to do this in my garage too. Thank you in advance
Hi there!
Here are the track pieces:
ruclips.net/video/ZYytUAVfXVk/видео.html
How is it after 1mth? Will u be doing another video on updated settings? I went to get myself one too and so far its been great but still needs work on the front end. Cant run it at my usual camber.. This thing runs really low camber. Not used to it
Hi there!
I think the chassis drives GREAT actually. Very happy with it.
I assembled it with the box-stock settings, except for their "alternate assembly" camber. If you are struggling with the front end, I would highly suggest putting it back to the stock alignment.
By far my favorite RC channel. Thanks for all you do
Thank you for the support and kind words!
@@RoadsideRC absolutley my friend
Your steering issues is t a remote issue the same thing happens on the yokomo md2.0 you need to adjust the rod between the servo and steering and make sure your all your turnbuckles are the same
I did adjust the rod to ensure the servo and linkages were centered.
A sharp-eyed viewer noticed one link was installed wrong!
At this point in time this chassis just looks to drive like any other chassis out there. They did a good job basing their "new" chassis on almost everything that's out and popular today. The YD2, RDX, D5, RDS etc etc... to some extent normal behavior for a scene... But I just got myself an Dlike LP86 because of how it breaks the mold and tries to do something new, with roots leading back to pan cars and simple chassis etc. Don't get me wrong, the DC10 seems to drive really nice, and many people will get it. But where's the innovation? Reminds me alot of the Tamiya TT01/02 days where every other manufacturer had to make something that looked like a knockoff in order to sell. Great video, and thanks for the first look!
Yes! 100% agree - this isn't breaking any new ground. But competition is a good thing.
I didn't get an LP-86, but do have one of the DSD-1 on order. Fun to have something different.
Dude thats a pretty sick car! I actually use their Apex-II as my outdoor/asphalt 4WD drift car! Ive had it for years and I was wondering if they would ever made a dedicated drift chassis. The new Traxxas drift car is just a massive fail and way too weird to ever adopt XD.
I agree - I think they did a great job here!
Got mine built yesterday. And that battery holder is a bit of an oddity.
Agree 100%. I seriously don't think there is a more complicated one ever created.
love your insights mate! 👍🏼
Thank you - I appreciate that!
I'd wait until the fully finished body is mounted before evaluating springs.
Yes - 100%. There is no way to fine-tune the spring until the body is mounted - but the springs that were suggested appeared noticeably wrong - even from the instructions given.
What spacer set up did you use on the front upper arm spacing? Did you do the factory recommended "6mm in the front and 1 mm in the back" thanks in advance
I didn't - that total of 7mm causes the arm to bind. I did 1mm in the rear and 5mm in the front. Worked great.
Awesome, thanks for the quick response. Love your videos, keep em coming
Get that build video up please Sir 😊 the manual they put together is kinda questionable at certain steps 😔
@@cory272 It will be live on Wednesday!
Another great vid. How does the RDS compare to the AE car? Can Yokomo and RDX parts fit on the DC10 like the RDS? Exciting to have another player in the game.
Great questions! More to come!
An excellent review.
Thank you!
Awesome! I think this may be the one...
I had friends tell me get a yokomo or a mst. I told myself I want to be different and experience every up and downs myself with my Sakura d5. Now that I have this d5 dailed in, my friends are invisible now lol. I think this chassis may just be the one. Hopefully the aftermarket is booming on this bad boy
I really hope some companies jump on the aftermarket for this chassis!
@@RoadsideRC just by the video it looks super promising. If I end up grabbing one I'll only need an esc and servo as I already got the receiver and spare 10.5t...i do feel like I want to make my Sakura an outdoor car and a new chassis as an indoor type car. If I build an indoor car, I'm buying the goods!
@@RoadsideRC question, have you tried the Sakura MR? If so, how would you compare it to the RR? I bought the rear motor mounts for my Sakura solely for the purpose of moving my battery back as my spur is in the way. Also bought the top mount for it as well. Even though my tune is dailed to my liking as an MR, I feel the added weight out back could help my tune out a bit more with more controlled sway. Kind of how you explained in one of the videos having that pendulum effect.
@@davidhess3320 im also sakura d5 driver, budget affordable kit to get into world of drift . fyi the new sakura d6 are gonna be released soon .
Thanks for this video! I buy this car for testing Team associated in Drift.
Great! I have been very happy with it so far!
For a first product, they did pretty good .got most things right... unlike the "other" newly launched drift car beginning with T also
Agree 100%!
Can't wait for mine to come in the mail!
Good luck!
so you built it from a kit cool looks a good drifter not bad on test some teething problems guess a few tweaks
*thumbs up👍Au💯full view always*
Thanks 👍
Damn.... I gotta get one!
The more I drive it - the more I like it!
My transmitter can go up to 150% and it's independently adjustable
Great! I didn't see what this one maxed out at. Just tweaked it for what I needed.
Be very careful pushing the revox buton very lightly. the butons are known to fail after time.
Good tip!
Thank you for sharing. Highly appreciate it now team associated came out with one and Traxxas came out with the 4-tec rear wheel drive drift car.😂 Everyone is getting into drifting😅
Yes! I love these new vehicles coming in!
Time to get my 6th drift car🤣
:) That is part of the fun!
that radiolink transmitter... replace it.
I haven't had any issues with it...yet... :)
Thank you for all that you do.
Newbie here. Just got into the hobby a couple weeks ago and your videos were always first to pop up. I’m learning so much even from your old content. Thank you again!!
Awesome! Glad I could help! Let me know if you have questions
One of your best videos, mate, your assessment of the chassis is spot on in my opinion
Thank you!
Very encouraging to see how well this chassis performs with minimal tuning. This is the review I was waiting for, and I'm looking forward to seeing more running footage with the body and more tuning.
Thank you!
Yes - I was a little apprehensive. Not sure how the chassis would do. Happy to see that it works rather well!
Your garage track looks kinda like an angry or sad ginger bread man and makes me chuckle every time. Thanks for the always great content!
Ha! A new name for the track!
I wan't a cheap but good intro drifter.... This looks like the ticket.... BUT... The new traxxas drift car looks cool as well and have some pretty cool beginner settings I think might be good to learn with.... What to do! LOL
From what I have seen so far, I 100% do not recommend the Traxxas. You will hit a performance ceiling with that car VERY fast.
if you want a good drift chassis, go with this or the reved rdx, the traxxas is an rtr thats not even close to what the DC10 or RDX can do
Yokomo RD2.0 is a slightly better choice than RDX - cheaper, less money required to put into it for improvement(adjustable links already included, gear differential instead of spool)
Thanx for the advice guys! Duely noted!🤟 I work in big construction. At the moment we have huge flat concrete slabs for me to practice on! 😆
I put one on order at my local hobby shop. Hope I can get my hands on one! I'm not a TA off road runner.. but have had many many many TC3s and TC4s in my on road collection for years.. and have been patiently waiting for a release like this to get into drifting.
Nice! This sounds like it is just right for you!
Lose that front end will be closer to 70 at the rear
I do think there is some extra bulk up there. I think my first attempt is simply going to be removing weight from the components that are already there. We will see!
Its not far off the weight of my RDX thats carbon converted, mine all in, no front bumper is 1165g with battery, 29 - 71 to rear
Respectfully id like to say the backround static noise is hard on the ears. I enjoy your videos you give good info and got this kit pretty fast. I appreciate that as i was very curious to see it up close. I think some audio engineering would really improve the videos tho.
Thanks for the feedback.
I think there were two different noises. 1 is a fan to keep me cool. 2 is the fan on the ESC.
Can you give me a time stamp where you hear it?
8:06
@@Joe_McGovern Hi Joe! That sound is the silly fan on the ESC. It is on eof the Accuvance fans - and it is LOUD.
For part of the video, I actually unplugged it.
Most of the video there is just a loud backround noise. If its a fan its a fan 🤷♂️😅 @RoadsideRC
Super cool to see that the box stock alignment seems to be a super solid foundation for growth and making changes to individual preferences. I’m hoping someone local to me gets one and I can give it a whirl at the track. 🤙🏻
Yes! I was very worried that the box alignment would be bad. Not so!
Looks soo boring, driving in slow circles. Almost as boring as rock crawling.
Sounds like someone who hasn't tried it!
associated vs traxxas drift lol
I need to get my hands on one of the Traxxas cars!
Just got mine, going to test and review soon 🫡
Great! Would love to hear your thoughts!