SRAM Hydraulic Road Brake Repair (Hydro-R)
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- We cover what has to be the most common failure of SRAM Road Hydraulic (Hydro-R) brake systems. This includes master cylinder removal and lubrication as well as lubricating and fixing stuck pistons.
UPDATE: Some friendly information from some key people who would know was passed on recently. Things to consider - please wear safety glasses when working on SRAM Hydro systems. The master cylinder part number won't be available in stock at Q until very late in the year but it "may" be available via SRAM warranty and support in Indy.
One more point that was brought forward by someone who definitely should know ;) - The seals on the pistons in the caliper are used and designed in such a way that their drag and flex when the piston extends is part of what helps the pistons return after actuation. With that in mind there is some debate as to what impact greasing the piston and seals had long time on the retract performance of the calipers. The consensus is that the decision to grease should be "mechanics choice". I still highly favor greasing them but understand better their intended function.
Hope this helps and please subscribe!
I did this repair twice in 3 months but the problem eventually returns. You definitely need to order the updated master piston kit, in the UK use SJS cycles. One thing to note is the spring for piston spends most of its life compressed so the new kit has a longer, stronger spring as well and lever flop is gone. Not sure how long they last or are meant to last. And this video is a godsend for the procedure! Definitely do the whole service once you replace the piston.
Any part number for that?
I've been searching for this mysterious updated kit and i can't find it! I have to service mine every few months and it sucks!
Thank you so much for this comprehensive video. I had this very same issue for the past 8 months and I had FIVE local bike shops tell me the issue was not fixable. Further, they were unwilling to help me return them to SRAM for service (despite my full willingness to pay them for the effort). SRAM offers no way of a rider to contact them directly, that I could find. And I even had one bike shop suggest that I replace the whole groupo for Shimano - that ALL of these SRAM levers are inherently defective. So, with nothing to lose I ordered some DOT grease and gave it a shot. Worked like a dream! While the issue was with my front brake I ended up doing both because it was so damn satisfying. Thank you again!
I had the same weird experience, I only took my bike in for a service, with the stuck brake being the worst issue, and was told I needed to replace the groupset for Shimano, and the bike was essentially a write-off! Followed this procedure, and now its fine.. bizarre!
Wow! For me the hydraulic brake system was until now a closed black box. Even my local mechanic said I need to buy a new brake. Now I found this video (I believe you are literally the only on YT explaining this at all and also so rich of details. Now I'm waiting for the grease and hope everything fits back in 😁
Thnaks again for making this Video
Thanks for the video! I work at an LBS and was concerned the bladder split on one of my customers bikes, the brake feel was awful and feared the worst. I watched this and took a few notes, and managed to get it sorted 5 minutes before closing the shop! Glorious!
You're an absolute life saver
Outstanding video and information! My local bike shop couldn't get this fixed, although the did try and kept it nearly 3 weeks before I called to get a status. They told me washing my my wheels with diluted bike wash (that they sell and recommend) caused the issue and recommended an entire front brake system replacement and it wouldn't be warrantied due to the diluted soapy bike wash contaminating the system. I bought a SRAM Professional Bleed kit and took care of the issue myself - thanks to you! I really want to like my guys at my LBS but they are still new with only a few years of operations, and seem overwhelmed with repair work because of the COVID19 pandemic...
Just done this, and it seems to have solved the issue. I used dunlop rubber grease after some research. I also removed a couple of the split ptfe seals from top and bottom to help with cleaning (IPA). The levers developed a squeak over time I didn't know what this was, but it's gone completely now which is nice. I did grease the lever pivot bushing, but I'm sure it was the master cylinder. So if you've got a squeaky lever, that's probably another good indicator. Mine was the Rival HRD, so had the split pin through the plate, easy enough to push out, after scouring for an appropriately sized pusher. It is quite tight, so get at it with a hammer. Screw the plate down, not quite tight on reassembly to help get the pin in, might have to use a screwdriver to shimmy the plate around a bit.
Real life saver. I always hated the extra play in my front 1x lever compared to my rear. Last week the play was so bad I could move the lever forward without contact with the master cylinder. Did not know what was involved. Thanks
What a great explanation and in depth tutorial. I wish you were local to me and I'd get you to sort out my brakes, looks like I'm going to have to try and do it myself. Thankfully following the video I should be OK, although think it'll take me all day to do!
Hey, Jim! Did You do these procedures already or still planning for the future?
Definitivamente comprendí el "por que?" de el pistón de recambio que venden en Ebay.
Por otra parte este es un video que vale la pena sentarse y observar las veces que sea necesario para poder comprender las fallas de los sistemas de freno SRAM hidráulicos.
Sin dudas éste es un video dentro de la categoría "para esto pago internet"
Este es uno de los mejores canales de RUclips que he visto.
Gracias por hacer este video.
Saludos.
This is tops, did this this morning thanks a lot. Never realised how simple the system is. Great having the brakes and gears totally separate, unlike shimano.
This repair absolutely worked! One other thing that I hit on a while back is that the pad retraction springs that come with aftermarket pads come in varying quality... so I started bending the springs out to ~60* to increase the return pressure. I'm not sure whether it actually makes a difference altogether but I was having issues with lazy pistons and this seemed to alleviate some of that.
Thanks guys, this sorted my floppy lever! I had to use my syringe on the rear calliper to pop the piston out. Cleaned it and for now lubed it with SRAM Dot grease. Now it's super smooth and returning the lever with no slop. Thanks again.
Hey @chunky did you run fluid through the rear calliper?
@@rowenmackie4082 I had fluid in the syringe to make sure I didn't put air into the system. But it was just to give the lever piston some pressure so I could pop it out. The fix only lasts a few months. But you can get an updated piston assembly, not cheap though. Like 30 bucks for something. Obviously most systems with this issue are way past warranty/recall.
Thanks for the tip on using the syringe on the calliper! I was trying from the lever as directed in SRAM's lever service instructions and the piston wouldn't budge. I was afraid of breaking the syringe or damaging the bladder. Pushing from the calliper worked immediately with just a tiny bit of pressure.
Very helpfull, great video! Had issues with cx1 system, no back brakes at all. Master piston was stuck in lever, pushed it out with syringe. I noticed there was a crack in the upper teflon spacer. Ordered a complete new master cylinder at bike components. I hope i can re-install everything as easy as i could disassemble...
Thank you! There'll be a lot of people who benefit from this, though unsure if the UK distro will carry the piston assembly as an available spare. Thanks again!
I'm sure you already got it sorted but just in case... SJS carry the part: www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-levers/sram-b1-hrr-hrd-shift-lever-master-piston-assembly-bleed-screw/
Thank you so much for making this video. I was able to revive my Apex 1 levers that otherwise would have ended up in a landfill, and cost me dearly to replace.
No local shops stocked the SRAM DOT grease so I substituted for Syl-Glide from an auto-parts store. It is designed for lubricating seals and o-rings in automotive DOT fluid braking systems. So far it is working perfectly. If anything changes, I’ll be sure to update my comment here. Thanks again!
Super video congrats. Got a sram hydro that had missing seeling on the caliper, fixed it but after this piston had play as you axplain in your video. Did the maintenance but after bleeding lever is still completely soft. This brake is getting me crazy, never spent so much time on a hydro problem and still don't understand why it's not working...
Great job anyway!
Just wanted to say a big thank you for this. My Rival brakes were dangerously underperforming but now they're good as new.
Much clearer than what the Sram folks on the phone had to say!
Thanks. The SRAM folks have asked a few times if it's OK to reference this video to people when they ask. I'm glad I could help - Pass the link and share it when possible.
Thank you for this video!!! I have been having issues with my apex brakes for a solid year and couldn’t figure out what was wrong. This immediately fixed it!
Thank you Rob! I ran into this problem today and your video saved the day!!
Great video and explanation, best video and description of the issue and how to resolve it.
really thought i had to buy another pair of levers... thanks a lot, good job!
Super helpful video, thank you! I had a seized piston in my Rival lever and this really helped me to get it fixed 👍
You are awesome Psimet. Ride by your shop every once in awhile. Will stop in to say hi and buy coffee. :)
Just the best. Thank you
Ok, finally took on this fix and thanks to Ralph at PSIMET, this wasn't a hard job. my symptoms were: in the morning lever was perfect (i have gen. 1 Force levers) the sloppy lever would develop once things heated up. often the lever would get better during a ride once things cooled off. if you read up on Guide brakes, owners have the same issue. some Guide owners would simply leave there bikes in the sun on a hot day and master cylinders would get stuck. I have yet to ride mine since the servicing of the master but feels great so far.
my piston did not pop out once the backing plate was removed. I suspect this was due to a dry and dirty upper seal. otherwise, the master cylinder appeared ok. gave everything a good cleaning and applied dot grease just like Ralph says. the hardest part was getting that back plate under the roll pin.
one tip if you don't have a hirobel, flip the bike upside down and place hoods on a work bench and rest the seat stays on the arm of the work stand. creates a stable base so the lever doesn't move. also, wear a headlamp like a surgeon would.
thanks again PSIMET. p.s. I cannot find replacement master cylinders for Gen. 1 so still wondering if Gen. 2 master cylinders will work in Gen. 1 lever?
To my knowledge they do work. The only thing they seem to have changed is the plate that captures them. They removed the part as a replacement part though through distribution. I have yet to find a public source for replacements.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to shoot it. Is sram dot grease the only option or are there alternatives you’d recommend? The dot grease isn’t easy to get hold off:( finally, do you know the spec of the circlip, mine has disappeared on the road somewhere:( looking forward to functional brakes after following your approach!
I found something interesting in my example. During a ride, in heavy conditions, if the rider pushes the piston strongly and rapidly it will eventually stop in line with the fluid hole (in-out for the fluid - behind the piston leaps). The hole has a raff surface down the bottom (poor machining process) and the flat o-ring is stuck in place. I fixed it by polishing the edges of the hole (especially the downside with the Dremel tool). Use grease. Change DOT fluid.
Thank you so much! Wiht this video it was quite easy to revive Rival 1 lever!
bro this video solved every issue with my brakes spot on. THANK YOU SO MUCH !
Hello.
1. Currently, as I can see, this is the best, if not to say the only, video on servicing Hydro R piston. Thank You a lot!
2. In video You have stop plate gen.1. I have on bike stop plate gen.1 also. But in kit of small parts, that I bought, I have stop plates gen.2. So, my question is - can be rolling pin below the stop plate gen.1 removed? Like it done for gen.2.
Thank You in advance.
Александр Рагозный indeed. You just have to press it out. I use a thin carbide scribe to push it through.
@@PSIMET thanks a lot! By the way, if question is still actual. From bike-discount.de piston, as spare part, comes lubricated in small amount of some white lube. Piston inside package separated from all other small parts and lubricated inside its small individual package.
@@PSIMET A torx screwdriver did the job perfectly for me. Not sure of the exact size, just small.
Updated the description. be sure to hit the "see more" option to learn more!
Forgot to add that it was also suggested that you can simply flip the bars if you don't have the ability to flip the bike.
My master cylinder is stuck inside the body and introducing fluid doesn't work. If I put too much pressure on the seringe, fluid leaks through the seringe hose.
This is the best RUclips video I’ve ever seen. I’ve had endless issues with sram force - cable shifter end jumping out of spool and almost every issue imaginable with the hydroR brakes. Current issue is fluid shooting out of bleed port on the lever at the end of a bleed like it’s been under pressure? Bleed totally fails. Nearly new bike!!! Any ideas? Great fascinating video. I wish you were in Scotland! I hope I can fix my issue without pulling out that master cylinder. L
Sounds like the pistons are stuck and/or master cylinder is stuck. Bleed isn’t “doing anything” do the whole video procedure and you should be good to go.
PSIMET thanks 🙏- when I bleed the lever end fluid is escaping when I pull back the lever to get the air out. A lot of fluid is leaking out, but I can’t see where it’s coming out. I replaced the bladder assembly with a new one, but it’s made no difference. Best wishes, Laurence
@@lanceblack888 hard to diagnose without being there but sounds like maybe you’ve blown the o ring on the hose connection in the lever. That or stripped the plastic threads out of the housing where the hose is connected. Should be easy to tell where the fluid is literally coming from. Push fluid in under pressure while bleeding until you get it to leak or pull the lever while the syringes are clamped off.
It would be interesting to see a video that explains how all the hydraulic parts inside the lever actually work together: the cable end bit (I’m not even sure what it does - does the master cylinder push fluid into this? I presume it does), the bladder diaphragm assembly and how all these bits work together with the master cylinder? I’m still unsure how the system works. L
PSIMET yep 👍 I think it has something to do with the hose. I’m not happy with how the hose is seated. It seems physically under tension. I don’t think it’s upsides down, but I suspect it’s not properly sealed. L
Hi. Thanks for video. Same problem with SRAM RED ETAP HRD 11V (road) . No support from SRAM. They didn't provide spare part for it (No piston kit, no bladder/cap kit )...Very Poor SRAM support !!!
I have Apex 1 levers and couldn't get the plate out. In the end I found that on my levers the tension pin runs through the back of the plate. There is a small hole on each side of the lever assembly which you can use a small tool to push the pin out which will release the plate. Hopefully anyone struggling will see this and not have the struggles I went through!
Yup. It’s a revision they did after I did this video. I believe I’ve posted it here in another comment. Takes a second to figure out but still completely serviceable
Speedy reply! Thanks for the video, had completely given up with these levers until this came about and couldn't have done it without your guide!
Great video! Can someone provide the dimensions of the small piston seal?
It doesn't make it clear that the non returning (floppy) lever I think is only a symptom of the stuck master cylinder, not stuck pistons. I found that is worth a shot if desperate to give the hoods a good whack with your hand/fist. That can be enough to get it returning again. Short term fix till you've time for an overhaul.
With „master cylinder“ you mean the main part with the first O Ring, right?
If thats dry, its not moving back i guess.
My question now is, why isnt a fix for this just turning the bike upside down and drop 1-2 drops of DOT5.1 in it (without full dissassembly) to get that first o-ring going again?
I mean it should be resistant against dot to not desolve or something.
@@DoktorSkill worth a shot i guess, might work for a bit, but it isn't getting at all the seals.
Would you consider making a tutorial video on the SRAM force CX1 shifter mechanism? I was having all kinds of problems with the barrel at the end of the cable jumping out of the shifter spool inside the lever. I eventually got it secured using considerable tension, but I don’t think it should be under such considerable tension. Surely it should stay in the spool even if full released when you change a chain or swap the rear derailleur, but my cable end just would not stay in its place. L
Great video, I'm in the process of doing this but the master cylinder is stuck.. even after trying to 'push' it out using pressure through the lever bleed port 🤷
Yeah I’ve seen some really stuck. I keep pressure on it or “shock” it by striking the end of the syringe with the palm on my hand. Sometimes pushing down on it repeatedly while under pressure will break it free. Other times you can put on hydraulic fluid on top of it and let it sit for a while to help break it free.
Thank you for the video! Could you please elaborate more on rubber bladder and it's typical faults (you've mentioned it the video)? I’m running Force22 HydroR levers with Red Monoblock caliper (found on SRAM eTAP 11spd group sets) also referenced as HydroHC.
I’ve tried to bleed according to SRAM manual, with a bleed block the lever feels firm and solid (after removing all bubbles, etc). When I remove syringe from the lever, I see a lot of fluid coming from the port (unlike in all videos when only tiny drop is present). By saying a lot, I mean that it’s like 1/4 of a tea spoon, maybe more.
After removing the block and installing fresh pads, I put back the wheel, do couple of pulls to advance pads in their normal position and the lever goes to the bar. After that, no matter how hard I squeeze (lever goes to the bar), I can still rotate the wheel with my hand. In my understanding, there is not enough fluid in the system to provide necessary pressure (maybe because it escaped after removing syringe from the lever).
If I add more fluid through caliper bleed port (it’s the only place where I can do this w/o spilling it), it advances the pads closer to the rotor and lever feels more solid, but pad gap is minimal and rubbing is very likely.
Moreover, I can see bladder popping through backplate hole when I pull the lever. Is this normal?
PS bleeding blocks are different for typical SRAM brakes (10mm thick) and monoblock (12mm thick). I’m using 12mm, if that matters
Totally save me a huge amount of money. I really appreciate you!!!!
Super useful, thanks!
Never seen someone sweat so much in cyclocross season here in europe though! :)
Great vid and info!
How often do you usually clean the piston?
Mine lasted for about 3 years and now needs replacement. Completely stuck.
sstbrg1 try to push pressure into the system using a bleed syringe on the caliper side to get it un-suck.
I don’t do any preventative - only treat the issue when it comes up. I have not had to re-do the same lever after having done it once like this.
@@PSIMET Will try that before replacing it. Thanks !
Hi, on my Apex model, the plate you manage to remove quite easily to access the piston, is different. It's thicker, and it seem to be attached with a sort of axle or very small screws or pins.. I manage to incline it up, but cant take it out. Any tip for me? cheers and congrats for this video!
Yeah I believe it’s one of the ones that is retained by a tension or roll pin. You can tap it out from the side and still get full access like before.
Nice clear and articulate video. Thank you.
Thanks
What snap ring pliers or other pliers did you use to get the E clip back into place? It was a superb video that sorted out my brakes after 3 bleeds not working before I noticed the sticky piston and found your helpful guide.
Small flat bladed screwdriver works great. Just line the ends of the clip up in the groove for it and slowly push it on using the screwdriver. Back when I was a locksmith we used to have a flat piece of steel that had an arc portion of a circle cut out of it that was perfect for pushing small retaining clips on and off. I just haven't bothered to make one for this yet.
PSIMET thanks! I tried to force it and snapped the clip, would you happen to know what size I’d need as a replacement?
I have pulled the lever apart, and can see the piston, but it is pushed down. I tried pushing it up with presssure from a syringe but no luck, it did not even budge. Any other tips for getting the piston out enough to remove it and replace it?
Drop some brake fluid around the edges of it in an attempt to try and wet the o-ring on the edge. Let it soak for a bit. Then use the syringe to pressurize it again. Sometimes short hard hits to the end of the syringe plunger is enough to shock to it out. Just be aware it could come flying out if so be careful.
Did you manage to get it out @bfrankcolson? I have the same issue
Incredibly useful, thank you very much!
Cant i just put the bike upside down and use dot5.1 as lubricant for the master cylinder? Should be safe for the o-rings and stuff right?
What is the name of the top tube replacement device you are using to attach work stand to? Great video, thank you for putting together.
That's a Hirobel holder. They are now sold by the Silca company out of Indianapolis, Indiana
Thanks for this video, it just saved my bike 🙂
The liquid does not flow incide the handle, what could it be?
Excellent. Thanks for sharing.
Rob, I am having my SRAM Red eTap HRD 11 speed levers not returning at all unless I manually push the lever back. I saw your video and wonder if you have any experience on how to perform the same procedure on the eTap HRD levers. I have taken my bike now to 3 lbs they all told me that the only solution was replacing levers/brakes which are no longer made by SRAM since they have moved to the AXS and that system is not compatible with the 11 speed eTap mening that I would have to replace the entire drivetrain.
Any possibility of showing a return spring repair for the hydraulic calipers? I have found zero online about the subject. Much appreciated!
*Hydraulic Rim Calipers...
Thank you very much sir !!!!!
Tape the lift lever back to the bar. Saves holding it.
Superb video!
Do you have a spec for the small o-ring at the end of the piston? The o-ring on my cylinder has perished. I hope if I replace the o-rings it might stop the pressure loss. Thanks, L
Hi, great explanation. Really precise. Question. Have you ever come across a stripped bleep port thread in a sram caliper? I have one and can't find much in the way of advice. I assume it's just buy a new one. Can you helinox it? Love to hear your thoughts. Thanks
I hate to throw in the towel so to speak but if it’s stripped I would go with a new caliper. I would 100% trust a helicoil (thread repair coil) as the pressures aren’t that high and we use helicoils in all sorts of high stress applications but it’s such a small fastener that doing the repair accurately without damaging any other passages or the seat - just make me side on just picking up a new caliper.
@@PSIMET Thanks for your reply. I’ll do that. Do you happen to know if I can swap in a Force caliper in place of my Rival caliper. It seems like they should work but information is very thin on cross compatibility for SRAM callipers and levers.
@@rohanlancaster depends on generation, etc. formally SRAM will say they aren’t compatible - hydro-R and AXS generations but in application they all seem to work well. In all of the racing applications we have done that in.
@@PSIMET Again, thanks. Super helpful information that I just haven't been able to get anywhere else. Thank you.
I have Apex 1 hydro levers. I need to service the left hand (none shifting rear brake) master cylinder piston. Do you now if the lever pivot pin is held in by a circlip as referred to in your video? I cant seem to see a circlip in mine. I hope the lever is removable and not a non serviceable item.
I did all this and replaced the perished o rings. However when I screwed the holding plate back down the cylinder did not depress. It was stuck fast and so am I!
Thanks for a really helpful video. Sadly my master piston is stuck fast and I can't get it moving with the syringe. Is there another way to remove it please?
Answer: remove the banjo and lever/poke it out from behind with a pick or small screwdriver.
Anyone have a source for the master piston assembly? QBP part number appears to be BR5750, but it's showing as discontinued already. Greasing worked for a bit, but it's returned to its soggy ways.
Did you ever find a replacement?
If my lever (Rival) feels "soft" and barely causes braking anymore, even after several attempts at purging, is this something I should attempt? The lever returns just fine, it just goes all the way in. New brake caliper and new brake pads, so that's definitely not it. Would appreciate any pointers, am at a loss :)
At a minimum do the pistons
brilliant - thanks!
I greased the cylinder etc but when I tried to put it back in place i couldn’t fit the plate back on top of the piston and under the clip, it seemed to be because the silicone O ring at the top was in the way and stopping from being compressed enough. And the O ring was actually fairly loose on the piston (expanded) and I was able to take it off the end. I could put the cylinder in with the plate on top without this o ring, how necessary is it to be there? And can you get a new o ring anywhere or do I need to get a whole Cylinder? Thanks!
Is SRAM dot grease the same as red rubber grease? Can red rubber grease be used for this job?
How do you know if you need to replace the slave cylinder seals?
If I'm reading the comments correctly, it looks like a Gen 2 MP could be used in a Gen 1 lever? If so, any tips on that?
I have an issue where a lever brought to me has the cylinder actually stuck high into the lever. I have taken the hose off and tried to free it from the other side with no luck. Any ideas? I am also not sure where to get the master cylinder replacement if I were drill it out instead.
I have another problem when do the bleed process on my SRAM ETAP HRD. There is no problem when I push the fluid from caliper to shifter, but when I want to push back from shifter to caliper it seems so hard. And this is only happened for left shifter only. Have you an experience about it?
*awesome* thank you
very useful, thank you
16.10 is what my reassembled system isn’t doing. Maybe my spring has lost its spring?
Good Video thanks. At 17min32sec it shows how to put replace the spring. I did the same as in the video but in my opinion it doesn't make sense. The spring push 2 times on the same component so the lever stays in the same position. Anyone else has the same problem or did I make a wrong assembly?
Have you ever taken apart the main reservoir on the brake/shifter handle? I have a feeling that may be introducing air into my system thanks!
Ryan Kearney was just cruising through comments and saw this. Sorry for the late reply but yes I have seen that. I have seen on one occasion the bladder was installed wrong and was pinching. I have had reports of 3-4 others finding the same thing. So this goes into my “common problem” file. They do make a bladder repair replacement kit with new screws, bladder and lid.
Do you think spreading dot fluid will help?
Can anyone tell me who the "Q" distributor is in the US?
Tim White QBP or Quality Bicycle Products. Since publishing this video they have removed the master cylinder assembly from their catalog. Pulling apart a newer lever has shown that SRaM has changed the lube/ used a metric ton of it in the master cylinder and has used a captured roll pin in a new die cast plate-cover that makes the lever appear as though it can not be serviced.
They appear to want to dissuade anyone from working on them. You still can though it’s just that replacement parts are now nowhere. I usually buy or keep trashed levers for useable parts.
@@PSIMETWould the one in this link work? It is slightly different than the one in the video. This one has a white plastic piece at the top of the Master Piston, the one in the video does not.
Also, is it possible to buy just the spring and not the entire assembly?
www.treefortbikes.com/SRAM-HRD-HRR-Hydraulic-Brake-Master-Piston-Assembly?adpos=&scid=scplp33322243786826457&sc_intid=33322243786826457&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt4X8BRCPARIsABmcnOoaIKwAcfu93QDQDoLAHJMZ-jdInlYwHdZFTvRz-OGeZbLwaXxFMnEaAk-cEALw_wcB
Rob...The shift paddle on my Rear SRAM Force Hydraulic lever is getting snagged on the brake lever assembly just above the pivot point. I can push it towards the brake lever but it's causing problems with rouge shifts on rough sections and such. The levers are only a year hold with maybe 20-30 rides. Any idea what the problem could be. I can send a video if that would help. Thanks for the great repair videos. Danny D.
Sorry - just saw this. Usually there is an adjustment you can make on the reach of that shift level. When I have run into this I have had to adjust that reach to make the levers separate form each other. Sucks because then it opens itself up to snagging long finger gloves in between the levers while in use. I have also been known to shim that lever out using whatever method or material seems best for each situation.
@@PSIMET Thanks Rob...I ended up putting a 1mm shim on the inside of the housing to stop the rear shift paddle returning all the way to the right. Now I can adjust my brake lever out for easy One-Finger braking. Thanks again for the video. DannyD.
I have Apex1 brakes and need to do this. Is there a part I can buy now or should I just try to re grease everything and reassemble. I don’t want the issue to return. If there is a replacement part, can someone give me the link? Thanks!
No parts available anymore. Just disassemble and grease. Nothing to lose.
@@PSIMET thank you so much
Thanks for the video, unfortunately, I have had to come back to it time and time again as the piston keeps getting stuck. Is the only solution to get a new master piston assembly? I can't imagine the wear rate on the MP is anything significant, would a new one really fix it? I am sick and tired of having to dismantle my shifter every few months of use. This is now the 3rd time.
Joey Halloran they have redesigned it and now have a different lube in there and it’s captured so that people don’t get into it.
In your situation I might suggest either replacing it and seeing if that works or just calling them and having it replaced
@@PSIMET thanks for replying so soon! By different lube do you mean inside the master piston? So buying a new one now will presumably be the new design?
Thanks again, so helpful and this video has saved me so much money. My LBS just said "yeah, its broken"
Joey Halloran to my knowledge it’s a running change. I ran into them in the fall when I went to salvage some parts out of a brand new lever that had been cracked in a crash. They replace the steel plate with a cast one and it’s captured with a roll pin that is easy to remove. The lube inside is now like a clear silicone style lube almost like a clear silicone grease. They have tons of it in there. I believe this is in direct response to these problems. As others have mentioned the master cylinder assembly seems to have possibly changed as well - changing to a longer spring. I do know that I can no longer source replacement piston assemblies in the aftermarket anymore.
Does anybody have a good idea how dislodge the piston from the lever? Mine is really stuck! Syringes keep popping out, hooked my floor pump to one end and it doesn't move at all...
What about sticking in heat? Lever stiffens and feels locked, brake on.
I haven’t heard of them sticking in the heat. If you’ve serviced the pistons and master cylinder and it’s sticking then I would hazard a guess OEM fluid wasn’t used and you may have a seal swelling issue.
Thanks. I'm the original owner, but haven't serviced/bled the brakes as it's not used often. I'll have to start with your guide on cleaning and greasing.
@@MrSpeeeeeedy ah… then yes. They are sticking because they’ve been sitting. Lube or drop some fluid on the piston seals and stroke the pistons. Should be fine. Follow the video for the pistons part. I believe SRAM has a video showing how to do it as well finally.
I can't get the god damn e clip off, any tips please it is driving me mad!
It's tricky for sure. If you don't have a pick use a small jewelers screwdriver (like you'd use on your eye glasses). I also found a headlamp to be helpful so I could see the detail of the clip and know when I was hooking it. Best of luck!
Hello. What can I do if the lever master piston does not come out? Is stuck inside and will not move.
Did you manage to get it out and how?
@@rowenmackie4082 I did manage to do it. I used a floor pump to make pressure inside the lever. I also needed the connector used to make the brake lever bleed to be able to attach the pump. It took a while, but after several pumps it came off.
Hey. Do ye have a fix for lever rattle in the left hand shifter on SRAM rival 1x. Brand new bike and the shop told me I had to just live with it. It's because theres no gear shifter on that side?!
glarley this fix would do it. Honestly most shops just don’t really know how to fix problems like this. They usually just replace.
The rattle is because the master cylinder is sticking and not returning fully after every stroke.
Should i replace the o ring seal if it has leak on caliper?
Yes. there used to be a piston kit that comes with seals and new pistons. If you have a leak then pull the whole caliper and do s piston and seal replacement
Advice needed: Sram Force AXS lever (right rear) slowly drifts to the handlebars after 2-3 seconds from initial pull. I can brake the bike but have to pump the lever to regain pressure. The other side (left/front) does not drop pressure if I keep pulling the lever even after 10sec. Any suggestions?
Yes - you need to bleed the right lever. As long as you don't show any leaks of fluid from anywhere in the system (connections, lever seals, around the pistons, etc) then you have air in the system. Do a really thorough bleed. Be sure to change the orientation of the lever and caliper to help air bleed out. Make sure your bleed system has a good seal and isn't letting air in as you are bleeding it.
@@PSIMET Will do! There is no leakage of fluid anywhere.
@@PSIMET Must be bad seal inside master cylinder. Performed the bleed, no air in the system. Lever still slowly travels to handlebar. While the other side lever holds pressure and does not move towards the handlebar. Video here: ruclips.net/video/a4mDHPE5se0/видео.html
respect :)
9:12 look closely how it pops out
Does anyone know the size of the e-clip? I lost mine due to a crash :/
you may just pull out the pin and bring it when you buy the clip for sample.
Can you use silicon grease instead of that sram grease?
Sorry for the late reply - I would stick with the SRAM grease. It's going to come in contact with your brake fluid and the seals in the system and there's no telling what other additives could be in another grease and how they would interact with your seals. Again - not worried about the silicone as it's a silicone fluid system but rather the additives that may be in the other grease.
I used Syl-Glide from the auto parts store because I was impatient to mail-order SRAM grease. It’s specifically designed for lubricating O-rings and seals in automotive DOT-based braking systems so I figured it should work. So far, so good, however we will see how it lasts.
@@WordupG Thanks!
Anyone have advice on how to get the master cylinder out?
I believe I cover it in the video but putting pressure on the system using a syringe at the caliper should pop the master cylinder out.
@@PSIMET thanks for the mega fast reply. Yep, you mentioned it but I didn't understand how to do it as I wasn't sure where to add the syringe ... Now it's clear that's it's the caliper. Much appreciated. Thanks
It’s an absolute travesty that SRAM won’t make these essential repair parts available for purchase anymore. My expensive brifters (two pairs) are completely useless and are essentially garbage now. One little o-ring kit would give them a new lease on life and years of additional service! Shame, shame, same on you SRAM. I will not be buying SRAM hydraulic components ever again if this is how they treat their loyal customers.
Like a dantist!!! Great 👍🏻
Hey cool video, if you can find an assistant who doesn't suffer from palsy and has the forebrain function to work a viewfinder that would be cool, too!
I just put the bike upside down and sprayed it in with WD-40, did the trick
That did it? Did it last long and did not cause any problems?
Hi, first thanks for vids !
I have same pb with RED Etap HDR. I wrote a notice to repair it . Sorry, in French drive.google.com/open?id=198a53bFz8vJtrG-Gf0KKHICxCru8_Nyo
Do you know size of piston seals of Hydro-R ...perhaps it will be same as Red HRD...so I can buy a piston kit and repair my HRD. thanks for Help