Nice. For more stabilization after you pull engine out, if moving any distance, spin'r around lift w\ trans towards truck either build a platform to sit it on, or add a couple eyelets to each side of the hoist lift for ratchet strap attachments .
I did a similar thing about a year ago but only mounted it to the front of a 1999 dodge Durango and ran 2 ratchet straps over the top to the rear bumper to lift an engine out of a pickup and then used it to lift the front of a Subaru to move it around the yard to get it out of the way.
2006 I chained my exact same engine hoist into the back of a 6x4 trailer. Same result being able to move things around the yard and heaps faster if you have a small trailer handy. Bugger all but there is upload on vechicle hitch and can use Anything from a small tractor to a sedan to do a job. Was always going to just make a tiny trailer A frame to sit the crane on with 14 inch car rims.
When moving load with lift, put couple tag lines from load to base of lift to stop load from swinging around. This is standard procedure on jobsites to secure loads while moving and keeps people out of pinch points. This was a good idea Hope this helps M L Rogers Pasadena,TX
@@ACDesignsGarage as a small crane operator in plant, this kept people from getting hurt and loads from swinging out of control. Also after you tie taglines to load, then hoist up a little to tighten the lines works best. Thanks Mike
It works but there is enormous (sideways) torque potential on the lift. You definitely need those straps. They help with the torque. The center of mass is 4 feet from the pivot point of the hitch . The potential for twist is enormous from a mass that far from the hitch.
That looks pretty good. You might want to get a load leveling spreader bar to allow you lift things like that engine gearbox combo without the back end of it hanging low. Nice work. Amen Brother. Jesus is Lord.
I built one almost the same way to pull the engine out of my 72 C-10 because I don't have any concrete to use the hoist on. Had my little Ranger sitting on its bump stops with a SBC hanging off the back, but it worked great.
@@ACDesignsGarage Mine is a long bed, but it is interesting that you did the same thing for the same truck. I have a new motor 400sbc that I'm going to put in it. Lots of body work needs done before that though.
@ACDesignsGarage I just mean that the load has a compressive element at the base of the hydraulic ram. This load transfers down to the crossmember. The piece you added does not significantly support at that spot. It just needs an additional support member. The load is not transferred to the frame as it would if on the ground. Check some online stuff on engineering load members. If that piece fails, you might break something expensive or hurt yourself.
Nice. For more stabilization after you pull engine out, if moving any distance, spin'r around lift w\ trans towards truck either build a platform to sit it on, or add a couple eyelets to each side of the hoist lift for ratchet strap attachments
.
Awesome thanks for the tip, I think that would work well!!!
I did this in Automotive and my teacher was impressed
Awesome, thanks for watching!!!
I like it. That would be pretty handy. You could call it the pick and pull.
Hahaha thats a good name, its very helpful, you can even oull up bushes lol. Don't ask how I know lol
I did a similar thing about a year ago but only mounted it to the front of a 1999 dodge Durango and ran 2 ratchet straps over the top to the rear bumper to lift an engine out of a pickup and then used it to lift the front of a Subaru to move it around the yard to get it out of the way.
That is awesome!!!!
2006 I chained my exact same engine hoist into the back of a 6x4 trailer. Same result being able to move things around the yard and heaps faster if you have a small trailer handy. Bugger all but there is upload on vechicle hitch and can use Anything from a small tractor to a sedan to do a job. Was always going to just make a tiny trailer A frame to sit the crane on with 14 inch car rims.
Awesome, it works pretty well!!!
When moving load with lift, put couple tag lines from load to base of lift to stop load from swinging around. This is standard procedure on jobsites to secure loads while moving and keeps people out of pinch points. This was a good idea Hope this helps
M L Rogers Pasadena,TX
Yeah, thanks for the tip!!!!
@@ACDesignsGarage as a small crane operator in plant, this kept people from getting hurt and loads from swinging out of control. Also after you tie taglines to load, then hoist up a little to tighten the lines works best. Thanks
Mike
Inches and feet are cool, but when it comes to preparing cuts & design, it’s much easier to switch to millimeters.
It works but there is enormous (sideways) torque potential on the lift. You definitely need those straps. They help with the torque. The center of mass is 4 feet from the pivot point of the hitch . The potential for twist is enormous from a mass that far from the hitch.
Yeah I agree, thats why I put the ratchet straps on, but its mainly for moving stuff around in the shop.Thanks for watching!!!
That looks pretty good. You might want to get a load leveling spreader bar to allow you lift things like that engine gearbox combo without the back end of it hanging low. Nice work.
Amen Brother. Jesus is Lord.
Thank you for the tip, it needs a little stabilization add to it for sure, Hope you have a Blessed day!!!!!
I cut up an old cherry picker and did about the same thing to my three point hitch on my tractor. I lifted the front of the tractor up pulling post.
Thats awesome
I built one almost the same way to pull the engine out of my 72 C-10 because I don't have any concrete to use the hoist on. Had my little Ranger sitting on its bump stops with a SBC hanging off the back, but it worked great.
Thats so awesome, that motor came out of my short bed 72 c10 also lol
@@ACDesignsGarage Mine is a long bed, but it is interesting that you did the same thing for the same truck. I have a new motor 400sbc that I'm going to put in it. Lots of body work needs done before that though.
You did a awfully great job I like it very much it will work find great video friend keep them coming....
Thank you very much for your kindness!!!
Very cool idea
Thanks Josh!!!!!
Nice! I will convert mine also.
It works great
Nice work!
Thank you!!!
Use the speedsquare for measurements
You could turn your removable part sideways and slide it into the lift and use the truck hole to secure it with the pin on the lift.
Thank you for the tips!!!!!! Ill try that.
I just would've held the 2" tube up there and traced around it, so much simpler.
It would be cool if you could put a swivel at the top to rotate the load to go inside the truck bed.
That would be awesome
Just put a red flag on it on it and running down the freeway looks like a great setup🤔
Hahahaha not sure id take her on the Rd. Lol
I always thought about putting one up in bed and connect to frame with a rear sling to pulling smaller vechilce
That would be cool
Why use the receiver, when you could have run the 2" all the way?
To remove the bar when not in use. I world use 2 in, od all the way though
@@rockyloccgarage2040 Yes makes more sense. I agree
Awesome idea!!! 💪🏼
Thanks!!!!!
A guy in the john deere 110 facebook group had that same set up on the back of his garden tractor, and a huge weight box on the front. Works good.
This is a real help around the shop!!!
Nice - but I'd be worried about tongue loads on that receiver. Why not bolt the hoist into the bed of the pickup and take the gate off?
You could, just didn't want to mount anything in the bed.
Do you think you can drive down the street with an engine dangling on the back of your pickup without getting a ticket?
No lol, it's mainly for around the yard, and it works great to pull shrubs to lol
You need some structural support at the load point, which is not where the weld was done ...
It works for moving stuff around the yard, if it gets to heavy I add straps to the top. Thanks for watching 👍
@ACDesignsGarage
I just mean that the load has a compressive element at the base of the hydraulic ram.
This load transfers down to the crossmember. The piece you added does not significantly support at that spot. It just needs an additional support member.
The load is not transferred to the frame as it would if on the ground.
Check some online stuff on engineering load members. If that piece fails, you might break something expensive or hurt yourself.
You need a highest amphour battery You can get for metal
I agree, them are pricy
I'm gonna buy a hitch crane for this exact use. I've got an engine I need to swap in my 02 chev 1500 2wd and my engine hoist is not nearly tall enough
That will be awesome
Had this 20 years ago
I saw some other guys using this. I'm thing about adding big casters to run on the ground to support it!
get longer tie downs and don't rely on the hooks to hold on the lift...that looks sketchy. Long strap tie downs and wrap all the way around the boom.
I did that 20 years ago 🤪
Awesome 👌
Cool but it is gonna bend your hitch.. I added a wheeled outrigger setup to mine. After I bent mine..
Ill have to try that!!!
Back and decker was the first manufacturer of consumer grade drills. Oddly they own DeWalt but black and decker as a brand has almost zero clout.
I have some black and deckers from the 70s!!
B&D is consumer grade. Typical branding. Every Cadillac could be a Chevrolet and vice-versa.
Nice job but lots of overkill ?
Oh yeah lol
diameter refers to circles
Seen that almost 20 years ago
Dale say s. Yep
Hahahahaha
😂 I'm 83 and have one speed drills older than you, they still work. Air drills and cutting tools are more for aviation.
Hahaha I do to, I have a bunch of my dads aluminum bodied craftsman drills them things will brake your arm if you dont watch it lol
Tongue weight limit should not be exceeded for highway use.
Agreed I would never use it on the road, just for yard moving!!!
Using a level while drilling the holes seems to be a moot point because you didn’t have the frame leveled.
It was level
@@ACDesignsGarage
I do think you did a good job on the hitch lift. Didn’t mean to come across as mr. negative.
@willyd1127 no worries I didn't think that, I remember leveling it but couldnt remember if I filmed it hahahaha thanks for watching 😄
Now put a swivel on the head and lets talk!
Dang thats a great idea!!!
Call mini mater
Hahahaha forsure
Low ah batterys
The cut-off wheel needs more rpm-dude , glazed over is just talking shite
Just show how.
Ok
dont dtill so fast on metal.
Na speed it way up if it ain't glowing you ain't going. 😂
Why don't you just call it towster
That would be a good name!!!
BAD IDIA..