In-depth How to Replace a Brake Chamber or Brake Can on an Air Brake System
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Sometimes they come right off and go right back together. Sometimes they fight you every step of the way. 1 being easy and 10 being the hardest I would give this job a 6.5/10 for difficulty. When the studs spin in the can and the diaphragm won’t hold any air or you’re out in the sticks without all of your tools the difficulty level gets closer to 10.
The part number on these double acting cans is 3030. Any truck dealership and most Napa auto part stores carry these.
I did forget to show how to change the clocking on the front (where the rod comes out) part of the brake can. It can be kinda dangerous. You have to either cage the brake or you can shoot compressed air into the parking brake(back) port. Then loosen the band clamp bolts and then rotate the front where it needs to be and tighten the bolts back up. If your can has 2 band clamps (front and rear) do not take the back clamp off ever. The big spring in there is a widow-maker and you don’t want any part of it. Only loosen the front clamp and then grab it and turn it. You can use a rubber mallet to beat on the studs if it’s fighting you.
Many quick and clean can swap videos on RUclips where everything goes perfectly. This video will show you a more difficult can swap where not everything goes as smooth as I’d prefer. I show you the core basics of how a can functions and how to overcome some seemingly difficult obstacles.
I’d never call any repair the 10/10(hardest) because Murphy’s law would prove me wrong and there would be a harder one yet to come to prove otherwise.
That parking brake spring is no joke and is pushing nearly 1700# when compressed. Keep your fingers clear of pinch points and when in doubt back the slack adjuster off.
Cage them if you feel so inclined but the caging tool and the receiving part in the can are just as likely to fail as the air line holding it back. Probably more likely to fail as you can’t see that the tool is seated properly nor the condition of the seat after 100k miles of salt and corrosion.
Feel free to comment any questions or find me on Instagram and you can IM me any questions you may have. Thanks again!
#bendix resource:
• Bendix Tech Talk: Air ...
Unbelievably great video on the process of installing the chambers. I'm heading to the shop to replace an axle and this is a great fine tuned video to help. Thank you
If you get hung up and need any pointers let me know. Be careful with the big spring.
Decent video, however it can be done easier. 1st, cage the brake chamber until pressure is released on the pins, remove pines. 2nd, remove air lines. 3rd, remove the two bits holding chamber on. Repeat in revers order to install.
I have a question, before you start to loosen the nuts on the chamber do u release the parking brake with the wheels blocked?
but this is an international and they hate their customers.. lmao
A vice would make life easier.. Less smaked fingers
How come none of these clowns ever use WD-40 penetrating oil on all the rusty-dirty nuts and bolts before trying to unbolt those bad boys? Make life easier fools!
You can’t call people clowns and fools and then call WD-40 a penetrating oil in the same comment James. WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil. It’s a corrosion inhibitor that evaporates. It is completely useless in a real shop. We don’t even buy it or have any in the shop. It doesn’t penetrate at all. It will lubricate exposed threads momentarily but does not penetrate or leach like an actual oil. We use JB80, liquid wrench, pb blaster hell I’d rather use motor oil than WD-40 and I have used motor oil on stubborn bolts. Actual penetrating oil makes some parts of the job easier but it is also very messy and causes dust and grime to stick to everything it touches including my hands. When I’m filming and periodically adjusting my camera/phone I don’t want penetrating oil and grime getting all over it and my tripod.
What was the green clip for when adjusting the brakes?
It holds the lock out pin out momentarily. Not all new adjusters come with one. A flat head screw driver will do the same thing.
I'm a mechanic. Great video. Much respect.
Thank you sir.
Lots of mistakes this video needs to be re-edited
Name 3.
Now it makes since if you are limping it back to the yard, got to do what you got do
Remember you got a gold mine of knowledge and that truck that you have is not a truck that a lot of people have
I’ll keep making them as long as people keep watching. I fear the day that a certified mechanic finds my channel and picks me apart. But that’s part of the game I guess.
Great video, but you just installed a short stoke brake pot which is identify by the ports. Round Port is Standard Stoke and the Square Port is a Long Stoke. Hope this helps someone that might be changing out brake pots.
I did know it was a short throw. It was on a Friday and we’re a good bit from town. I had to use it so I could move the truck until we got the long throws in. Long throws usually come pre cut and welded. I wanted to show how to measure and cut on the fly if needed.
1/4 turn on steers, 1/2 turn on drives.
Question. If the spring in the old chamber is good then measuring the rod would be done with the chamber caged? And then the new chamber caged as well when cut?
You want the measurement when the can is uncaged (rod out). When the spring is broken and mashed over inside it can be hard to get a proper measurement. Usually you can fish a coat hanger or piece of straight wire down between the rod and the opening down to the base of the rod. Mark the wire with a pen or something at the end of the rod by the threads and measure the wire. Or just set the wire on the rod of your new can and transfer the mark.
@@MikesMischief Thanks. I appreciate it !
id like to see more videos on that kenworth
She’s here in my yard in North Dakota. Kind of a defunct partnership at the moment and waiting to see how that pans out before I run it again or sell it. I will make some more ciders with it in the warmer months.
That's hard work.
I love it. I just wish there was a way to not get so filthy working on these. I can’t do coveralls because I can’t get the range of motion I need. My cheeseburger addiction doesn’t help either.
hows the bakken going for owner ops
I haven’t been looking too much lately honestly. I’ve been staying local in Minot trying to have a little bit of a life. You still up this way?
@@MikesMischief
Nah I've been Regional with my own truck and trailer Pennsylvania georgia-tennessee pretty much the southern area
@@MikesMischief I'm thinking about coming back to the Bakken to haul tanker as an owner op already got a vac pump on my truck all I need is a tanker
@@MikesMischief I've been talking to tanker monkey about it for a while now
I went out for a bit. DOT didn’t like that old KW too much. Had a falling out with a partner. It’s been steady. Not sure on the o/o stuff. Mostly sandbox adds that never respond to me. Nice being home more anyway.
And what year is that Kenworth
It’s a 1990. Has a first gen 12.7L Detroit. 13 speed Eaton/Roadranger. Has a mass port vac pump.
@@MikesMischief that's RUclips content and videos for years to come
Yeah I’ll be getting a mechanics lien on it for unpaid storage fees at some point in the future. Then I will maybe do some local hauling with it. But nothing across state lines. I want to have a deadman installed in my yard so I can tie appliances to it and to the truck and see which is stronger. That kind of my plan for the summer.
@@MikesMischief ha 😅😅😅
@@JPTV3000 if you’re ever back this way your welcome to come shoot a video on it. It’s a beautiful old KW W900B. I had her on some of the raunchiest muddy hilly lease roads out there. South of the lake up by twin buttes. Those roller coaster roads back in there and it pulled like no one’s business for a 30 year old rig.