I can't say enough how lucky the people are to be able to deal with you and Eric. You both are the most genuine and honest techs I've had the pleasure of watching. Two traits that aren't often showed enough in the mechanic field. People want so much to trust their techs and are often dragged over the coals because techs know this and up charge wherever they can You both define "honesty is the best policy"..Thank you for doin what you do,
You need some Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape. Worth it's weight in gold... I moved to Florida 4 or 5 years ago (it's where my wife grew up) and that Super 33+ is the ONLY tape that holds up. When electrical tape gets old it usually gets hard, the adhesive comes off and leaves slime allover, or both. The Super 33+ is extremely bendable when new and stays that way years later, and best of all it doesn't get my wires all slimy after being in 100 degree or higher temperatures 10 months of the year. Oh and it's $4 or so at Wal-Mart, Lowes, and Home Depot. Pretty easy to get ahold of and absolutely worth it. Edit: I've fixed a few crusty electrical connections in my day, and a thin coating of dielectric grease does seem to help make the fix permanent.
*@**3:45* Ivan- once a metal has been "burned" (especially copper) it will become increasingly difficult to conduct electricity. Heating elements in vaporizers, toasters, lighters, incandescent and fluorescent lights etc., are made from metals that can tolerate heat, and still pass current- Kanthal, Nichrome, Titanium, and Tungsten. At home- take a strand (or even braid) of copper wire, hooked to an Ohm meter. Hold the middle of the wire in a small flame; the hotter it gets- the resistance increases. Ok- now BURN the wire, until glowing, without breaking it. Let it cool. It will have a lot of resistance- way more than average wire, forever ruined. IMO- always cut way back- or entirely replace- a "burned" wire and/or terminal.
HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP I just wanted to let you know that these comments are great. kinda like if AvE when he is disassembling a tool and telling all about the type of plastic its case is made of and all about the device's inner workings. my next click is to see if you post videos!
I'm flattered- thank you, but I'm not even in the same room as AvE. I'm just an old, retired Mechanic/Handyman/Tinkerer. I apply simple logic and simple, everyday physics. "Old School" stuff. No college, Trade School, or formal anything.
Heat always changes the structure of metals, along with the rate of heating and cooling. Very sound advice and always pays to error on the side of caution.
Please don't try to teach amateurs anymore bad ideas than the already have. I have 54 years as journeyman electrician, instrumentation technician, supervisor, manager, and certified electrical instructor. I really like your videos on electronic troubleshooting.
Deoxit is very good at cleaning oxidation off contacts. Still nothing beats a good glob of dielectric grease to stop corrosion around the contact points.
I'll just go ahead and do the review for you! Deox-IT D5 is incredible stuff. Dunno what voodoo they're using in that expensive little can, but it's one of those rare products that actually does what it says on the tin. I can't speak to its longevity, but its ability to "renew" connections is measurable, both in voltage drop measurements on higher current circuits, and subjective experience (brighter lights, changes in engine operation, etc.). I've been through the whole spiel of unplugging everything and plugging it back in, measuring, then doing the same with the addition of that Deox-IT stuff, just to rule out the possibility that unplugging and re-plugging connectors makes the difference.
I agree 100% rhkips, Deox-IT D5 is incredible stuff. A hobby of mine is tinkering with vintage stereo equipment and this is by far the best product I have found to get rid of static in the controls. It seems to have good lasting power as well, some other products I tried worked for a short while but the static returned fairly quick. Units that I have cleaned with Deoxit have been trouble free for years.Expensive but it works.
Deoxit D5 is a great product and have been using it for years and when I need to enhance the connection i.e. SRS connections I use Stabilant 22. It's a little expensive but well worth the extra cost! Great video Ivan and I think you'll see a lot of that car in the future for the other issues.
That thing is more complex than von Braun's Saturn V. Scotty is right. Good video but this time I have agree with those that said the wire/terminal repair was lacking. Thank you and God Bless Paul
I’m having the same issue, crank but no start. No power to the fuel pump. The fuse is good, still have to check the relay. In the last video I saw the PA plate so I looked up where you’re located. You’re not far from me at all, I’m in Altoona. Of course with a car that doesn’t run it’s pretty far...
Hey bro i am facing the same issue with my Mercedes e280cdi 2007 | went to a car wash to give it the clean under body wash and after driving it back to home, it was fine. After a few hours. I tried starting the car, the key isn’t rotating in the ignition. Then I remove the ECU and the clean, the every trace of water droplets after sometime. The car started honking by itself, then I disconnected the horn and then I disconnected battery after 12 hours. I connected the battery and the horns are not honking by itself, and I tried starting my car. It started as usually it starts and after going about 5 km. I went back to my home and then I tried starting my car whenever I put my key in ignition on the last tab where the engine is about to start the radiator fans kick in with the maximum speed and the car is not turning over and then I open the fuse box, cleaned it with the board cleaner. There was a little trace of rust i cleaned it with the toothpick. And I have checked all the fuses and relays, there is not a single fuse. turned bad, but whenever I turn the key to own position, the fan starts at maximum speed, and I haven't applied your method to start the car, but I think you have very vast knowledge about my problem and i hope you will help me in this issue
I have the same thing going on. So this is a 2part question. I disconnected the 4 red cables and not sure which 1 goes where? Was wondering how you know which 1 connects to what since they all look similar.. ? And did you happen to have any diagnostic codes or how did you figure out it was the rear prefuse box (F33)? I was starting to suspect mines may have gone bad. But I'm also leaning more towards the fuel pump since I don't hear it "priming" and today I decided to take some advice and kind of "bypass " the fuel pump by pouring a little bit of Gas into the throttle body. I was then able to start it for a short second. So from a crank no start, no codes. I was thinking maybe rear prefuse (F33) or fuel pump. So maybe a 3rd part to this question is how did you rule out a fuel issue? Since normally it would be that, a crankshaft position sensor or something along those lines. Most people don't even know about the rear prefuse lol. Any information would be really appreciated 🙏🏼
If your ever in the sf bay area with your wife I will let you borrow my CLK convertibleto cruise the coast. Should it break down I'm positive you will be able to make it sing again. Good job tech.
I know this is a very old video but did the module come plug and play? It didn’t need to be reprogrammed at all? I keep hearing all the modules in Mercedes needs to be reprogrammed
I would suggest replacing that section of copper wire, and the heat and corrosion are in the inside where you can't clean...., then use some good heat shrink red color, and some dielectric grease, but good TS and repair.
My only concern is that wire is fused at what 150amps 200amps ? I've seen after a few years electrical tape fall apart. Especially when exposed to water and moisture. With those amperages I would personally prefer a properly insulated wire.
I wonder if the compressor for the airbags is on that circuit and when he had that bad airbag the compressor kept running trying to fill the bad bag and overheated the circuit. Just my initial thinking could be wrong
Just for the fun of it, 200 amps is the rating on my house. But, actually 120v at 19 amps is the same as 209 amps at 12 volts in the car. So I guess we could say the circuit you fixed is similar in power as a 20 amp outlet in a house but in AC. Had me going for a minute there.
I'm just getting in to using a scope I was wondering if you could help me out with a image I took I'm not sure how to send it to you I just recorded it on my phone let me know thanks
hey Ivan which Headlamp are you using. Thinking about buying one. You are the only one I see using one on a regular basis. Do you prefer the single round band or the one with the additional vertical band? and why.
Voltage drop test and replacement of some of that wire to be safe. How does 20 amps melt a 4 gauge wire ? There must be some other loads on that leg. Apply full load and do a voltage drop test !
200 amps on that fuse, not 20 A. Check the part 1 video at around 22:21. Remember, it feeds the SAM module, and any other gizmos around the back of the car - not just the fuel pump.
Yes 200/150 fuse. Only had 20 amp load after repair 21:00. Carbon pile tester n/a, turn on all loads and add some of high draw bulbs AKA headlights. I know Ivan has a test kit full of them. Let it run and see if that wire repair gets hot or the tape melts off .
The problem is that when a copper wire overheats, it turns to copper oxide, which is a pretty good insulator. You need to replace the section of wire that overheated.
Kind of missing the point of the actual overheating occuring at the bolted connection and anything from the crimp up was just collateral damage, which was dealt with.
It still felt strong and flexible at that point, with no snapping strands. I hope the DeoxIT removes the copper oxide, but I;m not a chemist. The copper strands did look shiny after I sprayed it though!
No, that is not correct. The heat was conducted up the wire from the connection. You can see when he strips the wire that a lot of it has already turned to copper oxide because it is dull and stiff, unlike copper which is shiny and ductile.
I have to agree with William Crowell, for sure would have spliced in a section of wire and new terminal. although I have gotten by with soldering the area, if it cleans enough to take solder! ( using nasty chemicals and neutralizing them)
-Fret Not good sir .......a new coupon will be posted around the 2nd 3rd of Dec.....i'll send you a link if i spot it up around then. You may get lucky and it may be like $10 off or something. It always switches up. -But that's great Ivan, i live in Ontario Canada and Moisture & Rust just mess cars up big time here, just as i am sure they do the same in PA. I've come to learn oil spraying them is the best way to keep a car longer & have less repairs. The younger you can get one in the less time rust has to get a foothold on the car. I am gonna assume you are taking the Nissan. - PS a great Christmas Stocking Stuffer = RESQME escape tool, it's the gift that keeps on giving all year round.....THE GIFT OF LIFE! :) ( they have them in Pink!) #Don'tBeLikeJenniferLeeWolfeR.I.P. Direct Videi Link > ruclips.net/video/1eu6lEQ5uYU/видео.html RUclips Video Name > Woman drowns in car during frantic phone call to husband Sold At >>> Amazon , Ace Hardware , Walmart (Online) resqme.com/EN/partners/#retail A RESQME escape tool Demonstration > Direct VIdeo Link > ruclips.net/video/BFU9umk7qEk/видео.html RUclips Video Name > ABC News - 7 On Your Side Test - rescue tool for car accidents ____________________________ Then There was Dorothy Mcreary > www.firstcoastnews.com/news/local/ponte-vedra-grandmother-drowns-on-daughters-birthday/123871013 The San Diego Car Flip > ruclips.net/video/MvMDYiSc1mI/видео.html ( 163 Overturned Car Extrication [Helmet Cam] ) Dumb Woman from Canada who Escapes with a RESQME > ruclips.net/video/yFA54f0ExSE/видео.html I Think You See My Point Ivan .....Time To RESQME up. ( i carry 2 , just in case ;) )
I've been looking for some help on a very similar vehicle...a 2006 CLS55 AMG 5.5L with two issues...not sure anyone here reading can help. First issue is some right bank O2 sensor codes P200C-1 G3/4 Right O2 sensor, before TWC: Aging, correction variale exceeded: Delay time too long (P2096). A P200E-1 G3/6 Right O2 sensor, after TWC: Level is above applicable thrreshold (P1999). And P200 P200E-2 G3/5 Right O2 sensor, after TWC: Level is below applicable threshold (P1999). I have the factory service info and everything in the factory service info pointed to the downstream sensor being the issue so I changed both the upstream and downstream sensors but codes returned. One factory tech told me oil can migrate down the harness from the cam adjusters but this car doesn't have them. Apparently these cars use both sensors for fuel control. Still stumped on that one and looking for someone with some Benz experience to get some tips from. The other is a fairly common C2131 code in the SBC module indicating a faulty Pressure Reservoir on the SBC unit. I have a new reservoir but not sure my Autel DS708 is up to the bleeding task required afterward. Has anyone done this job and possibly even using a DS708 for bleeding?
Thank you for all the incredible knowledge you share. It's litterly priceless. Can you please contact me? Names E R. I have a e350 mercedes that originally started with a sbc issue but now has snowballed into a bunch of other things.
Howdy Ivan,ohhh ok i thought sam module and as you call it prefuse box was one unit together, my mistake sorry. :) ..Thanks for clearing that up for me Ivan.
I had one of these nice little Zukis for 18 years. Their wheels develop unstoppable slow leak after few years. I couldn't permanently cure them ever...
bodgit and leggit garage I felt the same way until I bought a extremely cherry clk 320 cabriolet off of a customer of mine. Fixed a few minor things and now it's one of my favorite cars. But I wouldn't recommend a used European car for people on a budget.
They are unique cars , that is for sure. But coming from Gm for a lot of years, I have learned that they are more expense to fix, but don't break down across the board like domestic vehicles.
Javier Rocha Yeah wait till your cabrio isnt so cherry anymore. Lol. As Scotty Kilmer says, " they all break its just a matter of WHEN". Hope you love it when your brake replacements cost 700 plus USD. And a SAM module craps out costing thousands. Best of luck.
Kenneth White no way 700...i get my parts at world Pac at the shop cost..my own labor...easy. sure it's a bit more than my Hyundai accent but as an experienced tech it's not too bad...i wouldn't be so eager to own it if I wasn't a tech. Besides I got Ivans vids to help me
That is NOT the way I would clean a corroded wire. I recommend using a dremel rotary power tool with wire brush attachment. Then coat the wire with vaseline to stop the corrosion from moisture.
Using a rotary dremmel would be kind of pointless, since you would only clean the outer strands of the fat wire! The deoxit spray actually penetrates the entire wire and cleans the oxidation on the inner strands as well :)
Usually those connections are to a specific torque, often measured in inch-pounds, otherwise you risk stripping the connection, something I learned the hard way. Is this something you check? I agree with the comment on heat destroying the current-carrying capacity of copper wire. Did you check the resistance of the circuit after the repair was completed, or at least feel the taped section to see if it was hotter than normal, or hotter than the other connections? De-Oxit is a miracle product for cleaning connections in anything electronic, like noisy controls in older radios, receivers and electric guitars, as well as any automotive connection, or even light switches filled with drywall dust that cause flickering.
$60 for a fusebox, that's not too bad. But as we ALL know there's only ever one reason a part is cheap: because they make a lot of it, and if they make a lot... then there's a lot breaking.
Overly complicated money pit if you ask me, got to have a screw loose to own a Mercedes. I used to feel sorry for customers with such vehicles, but not anymore.....
I see that you are not familiar working on MB. Kinda good video but I would really like to see you diagnose a MB that does weird shit due to an uncoded module. Sorry but I had to give the thumbs down on this one. PS, I also notice that E-class has more warning lights on than a Christmas tree. It’s a shame people drive these vehicles and can’t afford the repairs.
You need to talk to an experienced journeyman electrician about this repair job. Good work on finding the problem, but the repair was deficient and not up to your standards. If cutting off bad end of burned wire made it too short, then complete wire and trminals should have been replaced along with the fuse box. You should have had no reason to use deoxit or sandpaper to clean burned wire. it should have been cut off.
I can't say enough how lucky the people are to be able to deal with you and Eric. You both are the most genuine and honest techs I've had the pleasure of watching. Two traits that aren't often showed enough in the mechanic field. People want so much to trust their techs and are often dragged over the coals because techs know this and up charge wherever they can You both define "honesty is the best policy"..Thank you for doin what you do,
I guess if you continued doing that kind of advanced diagnoses videos you will become no.1 on youtube sooner than you think .. keep it up
Like you said, you will definitely be seeing this car in the future.
As Kilmer says, what a money pit!!!!
You need some Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape. Worth it's weight in gold... I moved to Florida 4 or 5 years ago (it's where my wife grew up) and that Super 33+ is the ONLY tape that holds up. When electrical tape gets old it usually gets hard, the adhesive comes off and leaves slime allover, or both. The Super 33+ is extremely bendable when new and stays that way years later, and best of all it doesn't get my wires all slimy after being in 100 degree or higher temperatures 10 months of the year.
Oh and it's $4 or so at Wal-Mart, Lowes, and Home Depot. Pretty easy to get ahold of and absolutely worth it.
Edit: I've fixed a few crusty electrical connections in my day, and a thin coating of dielectric grease does seem to help make the fix permanent.
*@**3:45* Ivan- once a metal has been "burned" (especially copper) it will become increasingly difficult to conduct electricity. Heating elements in vaporizers, toasters, lighters, incandescent and fluorescent lights etc., are made from metals that can tolerate heat, and still pass current- Kanthal, Nichrome, Titanium, and Tungsten. At home- take a strand (or even braid) of copper wire, hooked to an Ohm meter. Hold the middle of the wire in a small flame; the hotter it gets- the resistance increases. Ok- now BURN the wire, until glowing, without breaking it. Let it cool. It will have a lot of resistance- way more than average wire, forever ruined. IMO- always cut way back- or entirely replace- a "burned" wire and/or terminal.
HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP I just wanted to let you know that these comments are great. kinda like if AvE when he is disassembling a tool and telling all about the type of plastic its case is made of and all about the device's inner workings. my next click is to see if you post videos!
Definitely, copper like that is brittle and weak. Perhaps this cable did not get that hot?
I gotta agree, Hubbabubba...and especially on wiring with a _200 amp_ fuse. I sure wouldn't trust that wire again.
I'm flattered- thank you, but I'm not even in the same room as AvE. I'm just an old, retired Mechanic/Handyman/Tinkerer. I apply simple logic and simple, everyday physics. "Old School" stuff. No college, Trade School, or formal anything.
Heat always changes the structure of metals, along with the rate of heating and cooling. Very sound advice and always pays to error on the side of caution.
Nice job Ivan. Jim cracks me up how he hides from the camera.
my boy and I call that Deoxit magic spray, has cleaned up a a lot of switches and keeps them working
Please don't try to teach amateurs anymore bad ideas than the already have. I have 54 years as journeyman electrician, instrumentation technician, supervisor, manager, and certified electrical instructor. I really like your videos on electronic troubleshooting.
Nice to see you work on European Cars! Great job. Solid repair👍
Deoxit is very good at cleaning oxidation off contacts. Still nothing beats a good glob of dielectric grease to stop corrosion around the contact points.
I'll just go ahead and do the review for you!
Deox-IT D5 is incredible stuff. Dunno what voodoo they're using in that expensive little can, but it's one of those rare products that actually does what it says on the tin. I can't speak to its longevity, but its ability to "renew" connections is measurable, both in voltage drop measurements on higher current circuits, and subjective experience (brighter lights, changes in engine operation, etc.). I've been through the whole spiel of unplugging everything and plugging it back in, measuring, then doing the same with the addition of that Deox-IT stuff, just to rule out the possibility that unplugging and re-plugging connectors makes the difference.
Good to hear! Hopefully the fix is permanent then :)
I agree 100% rhkips, Deox-IT D5 is incredible stuff. A hobby of mine is tinkering with vintage stereo equipment and this is by far the best product I have found to get rid of static in the controls. It seems to have good lasting power as well, some other products I tried worked for a short while but the static returned fairly quick. Units that I have cleaned with Deoxit have been trouble free for years.Expensive but it works.
We use Deoxit D100 spray on things like high resistance in connectors for air bags, seatbelt pretensioners, etc. Works every time.
Deoxit D5 is a great product and have been using it for years and when I need to enhance the connection i.e. SRS connections I use Stabilant 22. It's a little expensive but well worth the extra cost! Great video Ivan and I think you'll see a lot of that car in the future for the other issues.
*@**20:05* Sync of DTC mem and KB Config are *Drive Cycle* codes (it needs driven).
Iven plse remount the green fuse with the light coloured wire it now sits around the blank tube, that was'nt before. Good luck.
I have replaced a couple of these located on the top of VW batteries. Same melted connections at the large fuses.
It's a German trademark it seems lol
VW the Dodge of German cars, lol.
Yea usaly the cooling fan circuit
It's all sorted!!! now 😁😁😁 great job Ivan
DeoxIT is AMAZING stuff!!! I use it daily working on commercial aircraft.
That thing is more complex than von Braun's Saturn V. Scotty is right. Good video but this time I have agree with those that said the wire/terminal repair was lacking.
Thank you and God Bless
Paul
One thing is for sure, Scotty says don't buy a Benz. He finally got one right. lol Nice fix Ivan!
I’m having the same issue, crank but no start. No power to the fuel pump. The fuse is good, still have to check the relay.
In the last video I saw the PA plate so I looked up where you’re located. You’re not far from me at all, I’m in Altoona. Of course with a car that doesn’t run it’s pretty far...
Thanx Ivan, for sharing the vital information needed after the job !!
Nice work Ivan !!!! Looking forward to you making some videos from your trip to Staten Island University!!!!
Me too!
Good repair Ivan. Enjoy Thanksgiving with your family and friends.
Take care,
Bill
Hey bro i am facing the same issue with my Mercedes e280cdi 2007 | went to a car wash to give it the clean under body wash and after driving it back to home, it was fine. After a few hours. I tried starting the car, the key isn’t rotating in the ignition. Then I remove the ECU and the clean, the every trace of water droplets after sometime. The car started honking by itself, then I disconnected the horn and then I disconnected battery after 12 hours. I connected the battery and the horns are not honking by itself, and I tried starting my car. It started as usually it starts and after going about 5 km. I went back to my home and then I tried starting my car whenever I put my key in ignition on the last tab where the engine is about to start the radiator fans kick in with the maximum speed and the car is not turning over and then I open the fuse box, cleaned it with the board cleaner.
There was a little trace of rust i cleaned it with the toothpick. And I have checked all the fuses and relays, there is not a single fuse. turned bad, but whenever I turn the key to own position, the fan starts at maximum speed, and I haven't applied your method to start the car, but I think you have very vast knowledge about my problem and i hope you will help me in this issue
I have the same thing going on. So this is a 2part question. I disconnected the 4 red cables and not sure which 1 goes where? Was wondering how you know which 1 connects to what since they all look similar.. ? And did you happen to have any diagnostic codes or how did you figure out it was the rear prefuse box (F33)? I was starting to suspect mines may have gone bad. But I'm also leaning more towards the fuel pump since I don't hear it "priming" and today I decided to take some advice and kind of "bypass " the fuel pump by pouring a little bit of Gas into the throttle body. I was then able to start it for a short second. So from a crank no start, no codes. I was thinking maybe rear prefuse (F33) or fuel pump. So maybe a 3rd part to this question is how did you rule out a fuel issue? Since normally it would be that, a crankshaft position sensor or something along those lines. Most people don't even know about the rear prefuse lol. Any information would be really appreciated 🙏🏼
Another over-engineered German vehicle lives to see another day! :)
If your ever in the sf bay area with your wife I will let you borrow my CLK convertibleto cruise the coast. Should it break down I'm positive you will be able to make it sing again. Good job tech.
Ooh Javier, that sounds amazing!
Amanda Temnykh extremely lovely drive..
I know this is a very old video but did the module come plug and play? It didn’t need to be reprogrammed at all? I keep hearing all the modules in Mercedes needs to be reprogrammed
What's the "don't forget me" tag on the tool for?
I would suggest replacing that section of copper wire, and the heat and corrosion are in the inside where you can't clean...., then use some good heat shrink red color, and some dielectric grease, but good TS and repair.
Those connectors are tin plated. The tin plating prevents the copper connectors from corrosion.
My only concern is that wire is fused at what 150amps 200amps ? I've seen after a few years electrical tape fall apart. Especially when exposed to water and moisture. With those amperages I would personally prefer a properly insulated wire.
I wonder if the compressor for the airbags is on that circuit and when he had that bad airbag the compressor kept running trying to fill the bad bag and overheated the circuit. Just my initial thinking could be wrong
Points for that! That could be it. And if the nut was a bit loose, that would explain why the box did not melt until now.
Brilliant! Would have to look at a power distribution diagram to be sure. That air pump probably draws some serious amps!
tone of codes for bad fuse ...nice job
I'm have similar issues.I need a jump every morning.Car drives anywhere but when I stop more than hour I have to jump it again to start it.
You are so patient and calm and a great inspiration to learn. Great job ! I learn so much from you !! What would you charge for a call on this ?
Thanks for the comment Lyle! I always charge double for "Eurotrash" haha
How much new unit cost from dealer?
Just for the fun of it, 200 amps is the rating on my house. But, actually 120v at 19 amps is the same as 209 amps at 12 volts in the car. So I guess we could say the circuit you fixed is similar in power as a 20 amp outlet in a house but in AC. Had me going for a minute there.
Amps are amps. You cant use smaller wire at 200 amps
Is it possible to replace only the Fuse Link with new 200 AMP?
Would like to see what Mercedes would have charged for the fix. Good stuff Ivan.
Jim M yeah me too. Over 1,000 USD easy.
Solid fix. Great stuff Ivan.
I'm just getting in to using a scope I was wondering if you could help me out with a image I took I'm not sure how to send it to you I just recorded it on my phone let me know thanks
Happy Thanksgiving my friend. Be safe and enjoy this day.
Good job Ivan!
Did the best I could...the repair should outlast the car at this point lol
The last scanner was slower.. why isnt it possible to clear all modules at once?
Because Mercedes.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics thought ze Germans were all about efficiency?
Ok- in your HO what caused this? Is it a common fault? Preventable?
hey Ivan which Headlamp are you using. Thinking about buying one. You are the only one I see using one on a regular basis. Do you prefer the single round band or the one with the additional vertical band? and why.
Ivan, you should have used adhesive lined heat shrink tubing on that termination repair
And put some dielectric grease on the studs.
Voltage drop test and replacement of some of that wire to be safe. How does 20 amps melt a 4 gauge wire ? There must be some other loads on that leg. Apply full load and do a voltage drop test !
200 amps on that fuse, not 20 A. Check the part 1 video at around 22:21. Remember, it feeds the SAM module, and any other gizmos around the back of the car - not just the fuel pump.
Not a bad idea. Would need a carbon pyle tester for that kind of load test!
Yes 200/150 fuse. Only had 20 amp load after repair 21:00. Carbon pile tester n/a, turn on all loads and add some of high draw bulbs AKA headlights. I know Ivan has a test kit full of them. Let it run and see if that wire repair gets hot or the tape melts off .
Wish you were in Houston
Not sure what that De-Oxit is but if it's anything like the De-Oxidine we get over here, it's basically ACID!!!
Two words Ivan - Heat Shrink!
(to clear and reset alarm DTC) Exit vehicle, arm system. Wait one minute, unlock drivers door with KEY (not FOB).
Nice Job Ivan
Try silicone tape. Most hardware stores carry it. Self fuses to itself, and will not peel off with age.
Hmm never heard of silicone tape....but sounds like a great idea. I will look this up, thanks for the tip :)
The problem is that when a copper wire overheats, it turns to copper oxide, which is a pretty good insulator. You need to replace the section of wire that overheated.
Kind of missing the point of the actual overheating occuring at the bolted connection and anything from the crimp up was just collateral damage, which was dealt with.
It still felt strong and flexible at that point, with no snapping strands. I hope the DeoxIT removes the copper oxide, but I;m not a chemist. The copper strands did look shiny after I sprayed it though!
No, that is not correct. The heat was conducted up the wire from the connection. You can see when he strips the wire that a lot of it has already turned to copper oxide because it is dull and stiff, unlike copper which is shiny and ductile.
It definitely looked cleaner after you sprayed it. Noticed that right away.
I have to agree with William Crowell, for sure would have spliced in a section of wire and new terminal. although I have gotten by with soldering the area, if it cleans enough to take solder! ( using nasty chemicals and neutralizing them)
20 amps on the fuel pump circuit? Huh. Thanks Ivan!
It was under 10A on the fuel pump, but keep in mind that fat wire feeds the entire SAM module and whatever other fancy gizmos that powers :)
Yes, many gizmos in that thing!
11:16 - :( i was hoping you were gonna put Krown T40 on those contacts (#NONconductive) :(
(or maybe Fluid Film , also NonConductive)
* Krown T40 >>> www.krown.com/products/aerosol-products/rust-protection-and-lubricant/
IVAN if you do go to Krown , don't forget to Print off The COUPON > >> www.krown.com/coupons/
Dang, my appointment is December 12th, and coupon expires this month!
-Fret Not good sir .......a new coupon will be posted around the 2nd 3rd of Dec.....i'll send you a link if i spot it up around then.
You may get lucky and it may be like $10 off or something. It always switches up.
-But that's great Ivan, i live in Ontario Canada and Moisture & Rust just mess cars up big time here, just as i am sure they do the same in PA.
I've come to learn oil spraying them is the best way to keep a car longer & have less repairs.
The younger you can get one in the less time rust has to get a foothold on the car. I am gonna assume you are taking the Nissan.
- PS a great Christmas Stocking Stuffer = RESQME escape tool, it's the gift that keeps on giving all year round.....THE GIFT OF LIFE! :)
( they have them in Pink!)
#Don'tBeLikeJenniferLeeWolfeR.I.P.
Direct Videi Link > ruclips.net/video/1eu6lEQ5uYU/видео.html
RUclips Video Name > Woman drowns in car during frantic phone call to husband
Sold At >>> Amazon , Ace Hardware , Walmart (Online) resqme.com/EN/partners/#retail
A RESQME escape tool Demonstration >
Direct VIdeo Link > ruclips.net/video/BFU9umk7qEk/видео.html
RUclips Video Name > ABC News - 7 On Your Side Test - rescue tool for car accidents
____________________________
Then There was Dorothy Mcreary > www.firstcoastnews.com/news/local/ponte-vedra-grandmother-drowns-on-daughters-birthday/123871013
The San Diego Car Flip > ruclips.net/video/MvMDYiSc1mI/видео.html ( 163 Overturned Car Extrication [Helmet Cam] )
Dumb Woman from Canada who Escapes with a RESQME > ruclips.net/video/yFA54f0ExSE/видео.html
I Think You See My Point Ivan .....Time To RESQME up. ( i carry 2 , just in case ;) )
When it involves Mercedes expect so many modules and codes that your scan tool crashes trying to do get a report on them all.
I've been looking for some help on a very similar vehicle...a 2006 CLS55 AMG 5.5L with two issues...not sure anyone here reading can help.
First issue is some right bank O2 sensor codes P200C-1 G3/4 Right O2 sensor, before TWC: Aging, correction variale exceeded: Delay time too long (P2096). A P200E-1 G3/6 Right O2 sensor, after TWC: Level is above applicable thrreshold (P1999). And P200 P200E-2 G3/5 Right O2 sensor, after TWC: Level is below applicable threshold (P1999). I have the factory service info and everything in the factory service info pointed to the downstream sensor being the issue so I changed both the upstream and downstream sensors but codes returned. One factory tech told me oil can migrate down the harness from the cam adjusters but this car doesn't have them. Apparently these cars use both sensors for fuel control. Still stumped on that one and looking for someone with some Benz experience to get some tips from.
The other is a fairly common C2131 code in the SBC module indicating a faulty Pressure Reservoir on the SBC unit. I have a new reservoir but not sure my Autel DS708 is up to the bleeding task required afterward. Has anyone done this job and possibly even using a DS708 for bleeding?
Can I email you a waveform a took and tell me what you think thanks
I'm not a fan of electrical tape where shrink tubing should go. But whatever.
nice repair. Well Done
Thank you for all the incredible knowledge you share. It's litterly priceless. Can you please contact me? Names E R. I have a e350 mercedes that originally started with a sbc issue but now has snowballed into a bunch of other things.
If you had sent that nut to MyMechanics it would have come back with chamfered holes, rechased threads, rounded edges, and a mirror finish.
It would have been nice to see a voltage drop test to confirm the fix.
👍👍👍👍
Cool, another benz SAM i am module bites the dust, Kaching at dealers
Module was fine...
Hi ivan, was it not a sam module you changed because of the burns and fuse section that fell apart or was that a fuse box of some sort.?
Didn't touch the SAM module. We just replaces the "rear prefuse box" :)
Howdy Ivan,ohhh ok i thought sam module and as you call it prefuse box was one unit together, my mistake sorry. :) ..Thanks for clearing that up for me Ivan.
6:25 I would've used heat shrink.
Should have used some Dielectric grease on that contacts.
Hey, Ivan- *@**20:41* your LR tire is low. Physician- heal thyself...
I had one of these nice little Zukis for 18 years. Their wheels develop unstoppable slow leak after few years. I couldn't permanently cure them ever...
Everybody moans about German cars yes I would never buy one but I certainly like them coming in you always know there's something wrong with them lol
bodgit and leggit garage I felt the same way until I bought a extremely cherry clk 320 cabriolet off of a customer of mine. Fixed a few minor things and now it's one of my favorite cars. But I wouldn't recommend a used European car for people on a budget.
They are unique cars , that is for sure. But coming from Gm for a lot of years, I have learned that they are more expense to fix, but don't break down across the board like domestic vehicles.
Kelly R I do agree with that..but when one does go awry watch out. 10 plus failure codes is common just like this one Ivan worked on.
Javier Rocha Yeah wait till your cabrio isnt so cherry anymore. Lol. As Scotty Kilmer says, " they all break its just a matter of WHEN". Hope you love it when your brake replacements cost 700 plus USD. And a SAM module craps out costing thousands. Best of luck.
Kenneth White no way 700...i get my parts at world Pac at the shop cost..my own labor...easy. sure it's a bit more than my Hyundai accent but as an experienced tech it's not too bad...i wouldn't be so eager to own it if I wasn't a tech. Besides I got Ivans vids to help me
No review necessary Deoxit is the stuff ................
That is NOT the way I would clean a corroded wire. I recommend using a dremel rotary power tool with wire brush attachment. Then coat the wire with vaseline to stop the corrosion from moisture.
Using a rotary dremmel would be kind of pointless, since you would only clean the outer strands of the fat wire! The deoxit spray actually penetrates the entire wire and cleans the oxidation on the inner strands as well :)
Jake Gmail n
Questioning the talents of Ivan are nothing but sinful.....
Deoxit D5 is definitely better than a wire brush and if using Stabilant 22 is like soldering the connection it is a contact enhancer.
Should have put DexeIt on the inside of nut. Great stuff, nothing matches it.
Thanks,
👍
it's a mercedes...it'll be back!!
Heat shrink tubing would be nice on this cable - where the insulation was compromised. Great work anyway.
lucky there wasen't a dead body in the trunk , the guy that sold them this rolling money pit! HAHA
Usually those connections are to a specific torque, often measured in inch-pounds, otherwise you risk stripping the connection, something I learned the hard way. Is this something you check? I agree with the comment on heat destroying the current-carrying capacity of copper wire. Did you check the resistance of the circuit after the repair was completed, or at least feel the taped section to see if it was hotter than normal, or hotter than the other connections? De-Oxit is a miracle product for cleaning connections in anything electronic, like noisy controls in older radios, receivers and electric guitars, as well as any automotive connection, or even light switches filled with drywall dust that cause flickering.
a friend of mine had a Mercedes, he told me the last time he had his in , the dealership charged him 900 bucks for an oil change!
They must have found some other things wrong because an A service is about $225.
Should have soldered that connection and used shrink tubing, not tape.
2004? Looks newer or maybe I just drive older vehicles lol
Mercedes was innovative for their time :)
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics bahwaha funny Ivan 😂
Should take your wedding ring off when working around the battery.
Yea but why is it in the damn trunk? 😆🤦♂️
Lol, your friend reminds me of Joe Pesci.. 🤦🏽♀️😂🤣
$60 for a fusebox, that's not too bad. But as we ALL know there's only ever one reason a part is cheap: because they make a lot of it, and if they make a lot... then there's a lot breaking.
That overheated copper wire should be cut off and removed back to good wire. Copper overheated and brittle like that is no good.
YEA, FIRST COMMENT!! WTF- I'M THE 25TH VIEWER, AND 2ND THUMBS UP? WE GOTTA BUNCH OF TIRE KICKERS IN HERE.
Abunch of Kilmer fans... lets replace a fuse with a bigger fuse... Like the video he did 4-5 days ago ahahahaha
A proper repair would have been to replace the damaged wire and connectors too. This looks a little too shade tree mechanicish to me.
You would have had to pull the new wire all the way from the next connector. No need.
Overly complicated money pit if you ask me, got to have a screw loose to own a Mercedes.
I used to feel sorry for customers with such vehicles, but not anymore.....
I like our GL, tows like a monster and haven't had any problems with it. It rides nice, has tons of power, and better brakes than the Lexus LX.
Jack S just give it time my friend. Give it time. Lol
You should have cut wire back and replaced wire and terminal . Shame on you .
I see that you are not familiar working on MB. Kinda good video but I would really like to see you diagnose a MB that does weird shit due to an uncoded module.
Sorry but I had to give the thumbs down on this one.
PS, I also notice that E-class has more warning lights on than a Christmas tree. It’s a shame people drive these vehicles and can’t afford the repairs.
You have to go slower to go fast!
You need to talk to an experienced journeyman electrician about this repair job. Good work on finding the problem, but the repair was deficient and not up to your standards. If cutting off bad end of burned wire made it too short, then complete wire and trminals should have been replaced along with the fuse box. You should have had no reason to use deoxit or sandpaper to clean burned wire. it should have been cut off.