A lot of fix-it-up channels on RUclips seem to have devolved into someone looking into the camera and talking about what they did or are going to do (or why they can't do it) while showing very little actual doing. Your channel has avoided this trend. I enjoy the balance of explanation and action in your videos; it makes for a great viewer experience. When you do talk to the camera you always have something relevant and interesting to say. Even with long projects like Preparation H every episode moves the job forward, and the high quality of your work is the icing on the cake. Thank you, and keep up the good work. 👍
6:39 Also, tractors built during the war and the early models would not come with electrical systems from the factory. Black components could have been either dealer installed options or aftermarket kits using new or remanufactured components. We've gotten replacement IH parts from the dealer for more modern stuff in 4 or more different colors: red, white, black, industrial yellow, primer. depends on the plant or the day with replacements.
It takes a lot of effort setting up for real time recording work! I haven't put out a video for some time because of this effort. Getting the area ready. Making sure lighting is okay. Is my microphone going to keep working?
They sure do go together quickly when everything is clean, prepped, and all of the smaller sub-assemblies are already assembled. She's going to look real nice. And I wouldn't worry about any orange peel. It's world's better than it was when it left the factory. Back then, the paint wasn't for looks, it was to keep them from rusting!
Thanks Kenny! The only trouble is that you set the bar pretty high with the ‘41 H, so I gotta be keeping up with the new standard in IH Red paint jobs now lol 👌😎
You made the right decision on the tinwork paint. We perfectionists often struggle to forgive ourselves over things others will never even notice much less appreciate.
In woodworking, there is the 6 ft and 6 inch rule. If it looks good from 6 ft, it's good. If someone has to get 6 inches from the project to see the problem, you don't need them for a friend anyway.
Around here, the big electrical rebuilding outfit always put a coat of grey primer on the starters and generators they rebuilt, figuring the owners would paint it themselves to match the equipment it was going on. So here in West Central Illinois (probably anywhere within an hour of Galesburg, there are tons of machines running around with grey starters and generators.
You have been so concerned about the orange peel on the tins....to be perfectly honest, as a viewer, I can't see what you are seeing...the whole tractor looks beautiful...can't wait to see you driving it around the yard with a big smile on your face
You need to have a picture taken of you and your dad on your tractors. That would be awesome. In fact, you could make a calendar of all your tractors and Cats. I think it would sell like hotcakes. Do I need to put a deposit on my copy.
Leaving the paint staying as is, was a smart choice since the factories didn't really care about some orange peal, fish eyed or overspray. Makes your tractor alot more period correct in my opinion. Love the content, would love to see it in person if i could
You know what it looks far better than it did when you started. Lot of the past mistakes got corrected so the orange peel is probably the very last thing to worry about. I will say your videos are very inspirational.
I was in the color business. No two batches of paint are 100% exact matches 100% of the time. Depending on the testing tolerance, there will be minute variations or significant. When you get a new can, test it. Ideally you would take one piece of metal, prime it and paint the two batches on side by side. The compare in sunlight, shop light, and whatever other light you will be looking at it under.
My grandfather who was a master painter, when doing bigger jobs, would mix all his paint together and return it to the tins (to avoid paint colour variation).
@@geriatricjoe1227 Still best practice in this day and age. I service paint tinting machines. Mis-tints is a recurring complaint. Worst is when I re-calibrate a machine that was out of calibration, because then the color made after is definitely not the same as the one made before
Must agree with @oliverscratch about your detailed explanation about why and what while showing it, perfect video presentation and the fact that you keep your episodes at just the right length (timewise). Your craftmanship is excellent and you do it how you prefer - and "That is the way" as the Mandalorian say it 😉
Awesome job. Enjoy the video. Because of you, I bought an old tractor to fix up. But not going into the detail of paint. But had a blast making it run. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Hey Squatch. If you only have a small amount of paint, it's probably a good idea not to risk sanding enough to get rid of the orange peel and then have to paint the parts in Minneapolis-Moline color because you ran out. 😂 Seriously though, you can still keep an eye out for the right, correct, and proper color to show up on the market again and then remove and repaint any parts that make the left one 👁 twitch too much when you look at them. You take good enough care of your equipment that you probably don't need to worry about sun fading for a while. Keep up the good work, and "Hi" to Senior.
Oh man - the H is coming to an end - I love seeing that, but will miss seeing it at the same time. It is looking SO GOOD, Toby! And I know that you will actually be using it, that's the best part - it's not destined to be a hanger queen. Good stuff.
I think the tractor looks really good and as said in the comments probably a lot better than when it came out of the factory. If the orange peel is really bugging you I would find a little area where you could try experimenting with colour sanding. Start with say 1500 paper, then 2000 then buff it. I don't think you need to strip it back to bare metal. The paint will be fully hard now so should flat quite well.
I’m sorry, I didn’t read through all the comments. Many times at work we have fixed a peely paint job by scotchbriting the whole things and re clearing with a thinner mix. I can’t remember if you had cleared this paint or not. But that would be a very easy fix, and give you more to wet sand and polish if you don’t get it slick enough for your liking.
Excellent video Squatch 253 (Toby) :) very nice Farmall H going together super and very good on rainy projects to do yes 100% agree! Do remember years when Starter also Generator got painted black from Rebuilt companies and some GM Delco Alternator to or got Chrome paint !
I have a 1950 H Distillate. It starts with gasoline and burns kerosene after it gets hot. It also has the wide set front wheels. I have another H with a seized engine and narrow front wheels, but it has the factory hydraulic system in the transmission housing.
I like how you "hide" those hose clamp screws. I always thought those tower-style clamps were the nicest to look at, but you may have changed my mind by just turning those standard ones around.
About your paint problem.....if you can positively locate a gallon can at a SW store, and have the guy put his hands on it AND send you a picture. Back in the day they used to have something called the "Pony Express"....let us all know where the store is and a contact name. (Maybe on a new separate video) I'm willing to bet that there is a faithful Squatch253 member within a few miles that could pick it up and meet another member at a rest stop on the highway and pass the can on to another member and on and on ....sounds crazy ?
When you got a better finish with the batch where you had added extra reducer, you lowered the viscosity which would make the paint more flowable and better able to level out. You should check out getting a viscosity cup to measure the vis before spraying. They are cheap. The old standard was a Ford cup but there are variations now. I'm sure there are RUclips videos on them.
Thanks for the video Toby! Man it’s great to see Preparation H coming along and one step closer to completion! Looking great! I wouldn’t worry about the paint since it’s worlds better than when it came off the assembly line! Can’t wait for the next video!
Although i wish you well for outside work weather 🌡️ perhaps selfishly some rain 🌧️☔ might bring forward the long awaited start H start up 🤔💪💪👌 great video 👍
In my humble opinion, I think the orange peel on the hood and tank actually matches the paint on the rough castings on the engine block, rear diff, etc.
G'Day Squatch from Australia. If you have little or no base colour left to use on the tin work.... why not clear coat the final coats? Then sand that back to get rid of the orange peel? Colour wouldn't change, and the finish is fixed. Just thinking out loud, mate. Love your work.
Good call on paint! You never know if you will need a touch up later on down the road. If you use all of it now, you won't have any later. Hopefully the paint in the can will last for a couple years until SW restocks it.
I never left, I upload videos every couple of days but sometimes the notifications system gets buggy and quits telling people about the new videos for some reason 🤷🏻♂️
Toby, great progress on the Farmall H. It’s looking awesome. I think the paint on the tin looks awesome too. If there are any imperfections I think you are the only one that can find them. You definitely are a projectionist. I truly admire you for that. Very enjoyable video. Thanks
About your paint situation you should be able to take that particular paint code that you have retrieved from Sherman Williams and you could take it to a Sherman Williams paint store and they should be able to take that code and mix you the exact paint you are looking for if they still have the recipe. Disregard this if you already knew about it.
I've been told by other Farmall guys to use (GASP!) John Deere corn head grease in the steering gears of the letter tractors. I've put some in an A I have and have not had any issues thus far. Have you seen or heard of this being used before? I have a Super A I'm also working on and thinking of putting the same grease in it.
Yes, my Caterpillar track roller grease is a semi-fluid “00” weight grease, exactly the same as cornhead grease. The only issue I have with putting it in this Farmall steering sector is that my Cats have shown how that stuff will seep and creep past any imperfection in the seals, and I’m worried it would make that vertical steering shaft slimy. I did use that “00” grease in the distributor drive housing though 👍
My thought on the paint is.. As long as the paint is out of stock the existing paint job is OK.. If in the future you get more paint you can always wet sand and hit it again.. However if you sand now and get a few thin areas and need to lay it down and don't have enough paint.. That would be a bummer.
Squatch, in all probability, it will most likely look more like a factory paint job with the orange peel, I'm sure there wer some from the factory that had blemishes like that, lol, however, I understand that you want things to look their best . This has been a great build series but I'm waiting for the epic X231 build to progress in the future.
I love your channel and all the work you do. I’d like to add, though you didn’t mention anything about torque specs on all those bolts. Now, before all the keyboard commandos start correcting me. I know that Squatch worked as a mechanic for a lot of years, so he probably knows how to tighten things down close to torque specs. I pointed this out, not as a criticism, but as a curiosity.
You explained what I was wondering. Dad used a electric company in New Ulm. Both the 42 M, and the 48 H had black starter, and generator. I assumed it was core. I do know that the time he had them do magneto work we waited for a week. Idk . I'm inclined not to obsess over paint. We never owned a tractor that wasn't field ready, and expected to pay it's share of rent. Takk Skal du ha !
Given how they were painted at the factory, I suspect your paint is as good or better! And having seen the picture in that book of the painting, I think you are about factory correct minus the water overspray catch! Great work and exposition!
I have spoke with 3 different NAPA stores, a sales rep out of Detroit, and a regional sales manager for Martin senour and I can’t get it. I am the same as you, most of the way thru my project, try to buy more and learn it’s impossible . For me, I worked with the Sherwin Williams technical support team over 4 different calls. Finally I have a formula number 100009501. This is for Sherwin Williams K1 series in international harvester red that is supposed to be a very very close match in color to the pcc135ih. It’s plays well with the primer, reducer, and hardner we already have. Recoat times the tech team told me was less than 8 hours , or after 48 hours but less than 14 days. After 14 days you no longer get a chemical bond and you have to sand to create a mechanical bond. I have now used this paint on a super c I am restoring and I cannot tell which was painted with the MS and which was painted with the SW. if there is any difference in the color my eye can’t see it. Best of luck to you
I am starting a C project, the machine I learned to drive on. I am thinking about going the PPG route with Omni or DelFleet as Just a few acres is doing. I have just started down the rabbit hole of painting with something of a bit higher quality than what you can get from a spray can or from a pail from TSC. I also watch JT's Barn and Grill and he is using Axalta Imron but that is hard to find and might need a license to buy. Any paint professional advice on where to get educated on youtube would be helpful to me.
Have you checked Valspar brand? Valspar was purchased by SW. Valspar supplied OEM and repair paints to a good portion of the Ag/Construction biz. Call up customer service and tell them you’re looking for this particular formula for IH red and they may be able to look it up to see if it is packaged under any other brand’s labels. They can dig up that information or they should be able to ask someone. That paint could be in multiple branded cans.
Good to see tge hanging Art disappear😅. Is the radiator cover permanent or will you / did you put the screen material back in behind the grill slates? Oh, to question your comments about the black generator and stater, if the factory just sprayed everywhere and only a few items were masked, what about the black hose joints and worm gear clamps? I seen other engine manufacturers (Massy, Ford, John Deere, Dravid Brown, Oliver) Just Paint every exposed part,.
Talking about “good paint”, we had the exterior of our condo repainted, didn’t use the garage door for a few days, and when I finally did the drive gear sheared off the opener because the paint stuck so hard 😊
I suspect that particular number [GALPCC135IH] won't be coming back on the market as it is the 3.5 VOC formula. The 2,8 VOC formulation has a different part number [GALPCC285IH] and with the push to reduce VOCs seemingly everywhere, might be more likely to be available in the future.
Like the update. Everything looking good. One question, though, No gasket on magneto/distributor drive? Oliver crawlers (Hercules engines) that I am familiar with use a gasket at that location so I assumed other engines did as well.
Excellent! Hope that you get little more shop time and get it finished up so you dont have to work/walk around things any more. Any updates on your radiator for x231?
This question has probably been asked before and may even merit one of your response vids. Paint: surely any competent paint shop can run up a gallon of the paint as a custom blend? The pant should have a Pantone. Failing that, the tech to scan a colour does exist.
I’ve answered this here a few times already this morning, but to recap - I called 4 different Sherwin Williams locations and kept getting passed off to another store location because “We don’t do that here…” until I was looped back to the first place I had called. I’ve also been seeing that in a couple of the other paint stores that I frequent, they’ll sell you what’s already mixed up in a can but if you’re not an actual auto body business, they don’t really want to start doing custom mixes. I did talk to the main Sherwin Williams mixing facility in Illinois, and if I placed a minimum 250 gallon order, they’d mix that red for me right away lol 😂
@@squatch253 250 gallons would certainly excuse your concern. I’m in the U.K. and small batch custom mixes are commonplace: I’d be happy to make some enquiries for you.
Sorry to hear you are having issues getting paint, I’m in process of restoring a MF and Sherwin Williams has been able to match the MF paint I brought them. I’m in Canada though but they match paint all the time. But may be worth checking across the border!
@@squatch253 Strange. Here in Denmark, I am a service technician for paint tinting machines, mostly for decorative and house paint, but I do service a few for industrial paint, including EFA, which sell readymix in various colors, including "IH Red", which they make in 1000 or more liter batches. The machine that I service, however, is used for custom colors down to quarter liter color sample sizes. Have you asked Pete from Just a Few Acres what he does?
This is the same paint that he put on his Farmall Super C, and in a rather recent video (probably 5-6 weeks ago) he said they still had this paint in stock at his local stores, but that’s likely because that region still had enough of it still in circulation to be able to move it around. The NAPA stores will ship paint products WITHIN a distribution region, but for some reason they won’t ship them out to a different region. The region that I’m in is completely out of it, and can’t get more unless the main distributor gets more.
Squatch says thy don't do that anymore in his area. The autopainters use different paint, which is much harder to handle for DIY'ers. Goes on matte and needs clear coat.
they appear to have that paint in stock in my area of oregon but they think its made out of gold. $175 a gallon and they don't ship. in store pickup only. but then i don't normally buy gallons of automotive paint that might be cheap lol.
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A lot of fix-it-up channels on RUclips seem to have devolved into someone looking into the camera and talking about what they did or are going to do (or why they can't do it) while showing very little actual doing. Your channel has avoided this trend. I enjoy the balance of explanation and action in your videos; it makes for a great viewer experience. When you do talk to the camera you always have something relevant and interesting to say. Even with long projects like Preparation H every episode moves the job forward, and the high quality of your work is the icing on the cake. Thank you, and keep up the good work. 👍
You should watch the two Oliver in Snowball Engineering and Bradshaw Joinery
6:39 Also, tractors built during the war and the early models would not come with electrical systems from the factory. Black components could have been either dealer installed options or aftermarket kits using new or remanufactured components. We've gotten replacement IH parts from the dealer for more modern stuff in 4 or more different colors: red, white, black, industrial yellow, primer. depends on the plant or the day with replacements.
@@bchdsailor Thanks! I am already a big fan of Mr. Snowball's channel. I'll give the Joinery one a look.
It takes a lot of effort setting up for real time recording work!
I haven't put out a video for some time because of this effort.
Getting the area ready. Making sure lighting is okay. Is my microphone going to keep working?
please let me know if I can help
They sure do go together quickly when everything is clean, prepped, and all of the smaller sub-assemblies are already assembled. She's going to look real nice. And I wouldn't worry about any orange peel. It's world's better than it was when it left the factory. Back then, the paint wasn't for looks, it was to keep them from rusting!
Thanks Kenny! The only trouble is that you set the bar pretty high with the ‘41 H, so I gotta be keeping up with the new standard in IH Red paint jobs now lol 👌😎
@@squatch253hey up did you consider just using that last bit of paint on the tank as it does get buried
The place we cut our Xmas trees has one of these, really a beautiful face❤
You made the right decision on the tinwork paint. We perfectionists often struggle to forgive ourselves over things others will never even notice much less appreciate.
You would be surprised at how many new cars I've seen with orange peel paint.
looks good from my house
In woodworking, there is the 6 ft and 6 inch rule. If it looks good from 6 ft, it's good. If someone has to get 6 inches from the project to see the problem, you don't need them for a friend anyway.
Around here, the big electrical rebuilding outfit always put a coat of grey primer on the starters and generators they rebuilt, figuring the owners would paint it themselves to match the equipment it was going on. So here in West Central Illinois (probably anywhere within an hour of Galesburg, there are tons of machines running around with grey starters and generators.
Squatch I've been looking forward to this for months as you as well know... 00:12...😊
Pro tip for those using those tag rivets or drive screws. They sell a special punch for installation, it leaves the head round too.
You have been so concerned about the orange peel on the tins....to be perfectly honest, as a viewer, I can't see what you are seeing...the whole tractor looks beautiful...can't wait to see you driving it around the yard with a big smile on your face
It’s 10 times the better paint job than it left the factory with.😊
Give it some more cure time and wet sand and polish it should look even better then it currently does.
You need to have a picture taken of you and your dad on your tractors. That would be awesome. In fact, you could make a calendar of all your tractors and Cats. I think it would sell like hotcakes. Do I need to put a deposit on my copy.
Leaving the paint staying as is, was a smart choice since the factories didn't really care about some orange peal, fish eyed or overspray. Makes your tractor alot more period correct in my opinion. Love the content, would love to see it in person if i could
Clear coat it. Then if needed you can wet sand it. It will look better just by spraying clear.
You know what it looks far better than it did when you started. Lot of the past mistakes got corrected so the orange peel is probably the very last thing to worry about. I will say your videos are very inspirational.
I was in the color business. No two batches of paint are 100% exact matches 100% of the time. Depending on the testing tolerance, there will be minute variations or significant. When you get a new can, test it. Ideally you would take one piece of metal, prime it and paint the two batches on side by side. The compare in sunlight, shop light, and whatever other light you will be looking at it under.
That’s also why when it comes to colour there are batch numbers! I doubt a can of the same red will be the exact same next year.
My grandfather who was a master painter, when doing bigger jobs, would mix all his paint together and return it to the tins (to avoid paint colour variation).
@@geriatricjoe1227 Still best practice in this day and age. I service paint tinting machines. Mis-tints is a recurring complaint. Worst is when I re-calibrate a machine that was out of calibration, because then the color made after is definitely not the same as the one made before
Must agree with @oliverscratch about your detailed explanation about why and what while showing it, perfect video presentation and the fact that you keep your episodes at just the right length (timewise). Your craftmanship is excellent and you do it how you prefer - and "That is the way" as the Mandalorian say it 😉
Lookin good Squatch. Don't sweat the paint job, take the billboard painters attitude; 'They'll never see it from the road' !
Awesome job. Enjoy the video. Because of you, I bought an old tractor to fix up. But not going into the detail of paint. But had a blast making it run. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Hey Squatch. If you only have a small amount of paint, it's probably a good idea not to risk sanding enough to get rid of the orange peel and then have to paint the parts in Minneapolis-Moline color because you ran out. 😂
Seriously though, you can still keep an eye out for the right, correct, and proper color to show up on the market again and then remove and repaint any parts that make the left one 👁 twitch too much when you look at them. You take good enough care of your equipment that you probably don't need to worry about sun fading for a while.
Keep up the good work, and "Hi" to Senior.
Thanks for the update, Squatch
That tractor is looking stunning 👍
Oh man - the H is coming to an end - I love seeing that, but will miss seeing it at the same time. It is looking SO GOOD, Toby! And I know that you will actually be using it, that's the best part - it's not destined to be a hanger queen. Good stuff.
I think the tractor looks really good and as said in the comments probably a lot better than when it came out of the factory. If the orange peel is really bugging you I would find a little area where you could try experimenting with colour sanding. Start with say 1500 paper, then 2000 then buff it. I don't think you need to strip it back to bare metal. The paint will be fully hard now so should flat quite well.
I’m sorry, I didn’t read through all the comments. Many times at work we have fixed a peely paint job by scotchbriting the whole things and re clearing with a thinner mix. I can’t remember if you had cleared this paint or not. But that would be a very easy fix, and give you more to wet sand and polish if you don’t get it slick enough for your liking.
Excellent video Squatch 253 (Toby) :) very nice Farmall H going together super and very good on rainy projects to do yes 100% agree! Do remember years when Starter also Generator got painted black from Rebuilt companies and some GM Delco Alternator to or got Chrome paint !
My favourite part of any project, assembly day. so nice to see those perfect parts be assembled like they would be in the factory. beautiful
I have a 1950 H Distillate. It starts with gasoline and burns kerosene after it gets hot. It also has the wide set front wheels. I have another H with a seized engine and narrow front wheels, but it has the factory hydraulic system in the transmission housing.
Your attention to detail is second to none....if it aint broke..don't fix it
I like how you "hide" those hose clamp screws. I always thought those tower-style clamps were the nicest to look at, but you may have changed my mind by just turning those standard ones around.
About your paint problem.....if you can positively locate a gallon can at a SW store, and have the guy put his hands on it AND send you a picture. Back in the day they used to have something called the "Pony Express"....let us all know where the store is and a contact name. (Maybe on a new separate video) I'm willing to bet that there is a faithful Squatch253 member within a few miles that could pick it up and meet another member at a rest stop on the highway and pass the can on to another member and on and on ....sounds crazy ?
When you got a better finish with the batch where you had added extra reducer, you lowered the viscosity which would make the paint more flowable and better able to level out. You should check out getting a viscosity cup to measure the vis before spraying. They are cheap. The old standard was a Ford cup but there are variations now. I'm sure there are RUclips videos on them.
Thanks for the video Toby! Man it’s great to see Preparation H coming along and one step closer to completion! Looking great! I wouldn’t worry about the paint since it’s worlds better than when it came off the assembly line! Can’t wait for the next video!
Aye but it doesn't match the rest so would obviously make an eye twitch after all this work
Although i wish you well for outside work weather 🌡️ perhaps selfishly some rain 🌧️☔ might bring forward the long awaited start H start up 🤔💪💪👌 great video 👍
Beautiful looking result - excelent craftsmanship!
Looking forward to first start and moving everything to the new building. Equipment parade!
In my humble opinion, I think the orange peel on the hood and tank actually matches the paint on the rough castings on the engine block, rear diff, etc.
Squatch. Tractor is looking good.... Squatch. In a future video; Could you give us an update on your Eye's ?
Thank you for another great video! I would enjoy watching the wireing harness installation. Thanks for all you do ✌️
It sure is satisfying to install nice, freshly painted parts-provided they don’t get scratched putting them on. It’s a nail-biter sometimes.
I heard that the Napa in Jacksonville Florida had some of that IH red in stock. If only you knew someone who lived there.
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE the screwdriver you used on the carb!!!!!
So much Red all in one place - love it!
G'Day Squatch from Australia. If you have little or no base colour left to use on the tin work.... why not clear coat the final coats? Then sand that back to get rid of the orange peel? Colour wouldn't change, and the finish is fixed. Just thinking out loud, mate. Love your work.
that looks amazing,well done great work
Good call on paint! You never know if you will need a touch up later on down the road. If you use all of it now, you won't have any later. Hopefully the paint in the can will last for a couple years until SW restocks it.
Glad you’re back!!
I never left, I upload videos every couple of days but sometimes the notifications system gets buggy and quits telling people about the new videos for some reason 🤷🏻♂️
Ditzhlers,(spelling ) fastcut ,it is a polish that will take out the orange peel, 🍊 if it is still around, we used it on our cars back in the 70s ,
Toby, great progress on the Farmall H. It’s looking awesome. I think the paint on the tin looks awesome too. If there are any imperfections I think you are the only one that can find them. You definitely are a projectionist. I truly admire you for that. Very enjoyable video. Thanks
Toby the tin work is fine, it's a tractor and better painted than new. This is going to be a semi working tractor not a concourse
About your paint situation you should be able to take that particular paint code that you have retrieved from Sherman Williams and you could take it to a Sherman Williams paint store and they should be able to take that code and mix you the exact paint you are looking for if they still have the recipe. Disregard this if you already knew about it.
I think going with what you have is the way to go.
I've been told by other Farmall guys to use (GASP!) John Deere corn head grease in the steering gears of the letter tractors. I've put some in an A I have and have not had any issues thus far. Have you seen or heard of this being used before? I have a Super A I'm also working on and thinking of putting the same grease in it.
Yes, my Caterpillar track roller grease is a semi-fluid “00” weight grease, exactly the same as cornhead grease. The only issue I have with putting it in this Farmall steering sector is that my Cats have shown how that stuff will seep and creep past any imperfection in the seals, and I’m worried it would make that vertical steering shaft slimy. I did use that “00” grease in the distributor drive housing though 👍
Good job! She’s gonna be the prettiest princess at the ball! 🥸👍👀✅
My thought on the paint is.. As long as the paint is out of stock the existing paint job is OK.. If in the future you get more paint you can always wet sand and hit it again.. However if you sand now and get a few thin areas and need to lay it down and don't have enough paint.. That would be a bummer.
That’s where I’m at with it too - if I could buy more paint, the respray would be an easy decision to make 👍
Excellent video the Farmall looks really nice the parts look better on the tractor then hanging on the garage door track. Keep up the great videos
Fantastic job. Can't wait for the startup!
Have a gallon of PCC135IH on shelf.
Squatch, in all probability, it will most likely look more like a factory paint job with the orange peel, I'm sure there wer some from the factory that had blemishes like that, lol, however, I understand that you want things to look their best . This has been a great build series but I'm waiting for the epic X231 build to progress in the future.
I love your channel and all the work you do. I’d like to add, though you didn’t mention anything about torque specs on all those bolts.
Now, before all the keyboard commandos start correcting me. I know that Squatch worked as a mechanic for a lot of years, so he probably knows how to tighten things down close to torque specs.
I pointed this out, not as a criticism, but as a curiosity.
Finally, the "soothing relief" i've been looking for today.
You explained what I was wondering. Dad used a electric company in New Ulm. Both the 42 M, and the 48 H had black starter, and generator.
I assumed it was core.
I do know that the time he had them do magneto work we waited for a week.
Idk . I'm inclined not to obsess over paint. We never owned a tractor that wasn't field ready, and expected to pay it's share of rent. Takk Skal du ha !
The H is looking good, I'm waiting for you to do the W4, any idea when that will be. Thanks & keep up the good work.
Given how they were painted at the factory, I suspect your paint is as good or better! And having seen the picture in that book of the painting, I think you are about factory correct minus the water overspray catch! Great work and exposition!
Good progress was made! I had my H out for a spin yesterday.
I'm on the edge of my seat waiting to watch you cruise on that beauty.
I have spoke with 3 different NAPA stores, a sales rep out of Detroit, and a regional sales manager for Martin senour and I can’t get it. I am the same as you, most of the way thru my project, try to buy more and learn it’s impossible .
For me, I worked with the Sherwin Williams technical support team over 4 different calls. Finally I have a formula number 100009501. This is for Sherwin Williams K1 series in international harvester red that is supposed to be a very very close match in color to the pcc135ih. It’s plays well with the primer, reducer, and hardner we already have. Recoat times the tech team told me was less than 8 hours , or after 48 hours but less than 14 days. After 14 days you no longer get a chemical bond and you have to sand to create a mechanical bond.
I have now used this paint on a super c I am restoring and I cannot tell which was painted with the MS and which was painted with the SW. if there is any difference in the color my eye can’t see it.
Best of luck to you
I am starting a C project, the machine I learned to drive on. I am thinking about going the PPG route with Omni or DelFleet as Just a few acres is doing. I have just started down the rabbit hole of painting with something of a bit higher quality than what you can get from a spray can or from a pail from TSC. I also watch JT's Barn and Grill and he is using Axalta Imron but that is hard to find and might need a license to buy. Any paint professional advice on where to get educated on youtube would be helpful to me.
Good job Squatch looks really good
I have about a quart of that paint left over from a project if you get into a bind.
great stuff toby.....heat index in alabama was 118 today
Do you think it would be possible to do a light color sanding and reshoot the sheet metal with clear for a smoother finish?
Have you checked Valspar brand? Valspar was purchased by SW. Valspar supplied OEM and repair paints to a good portion of the Ag/Construction biz. Call up customer service and tell them you’re looking for this particular formula for IH red and they may be able to look it up to see if it is packaged under any other brand’s labels. They can dig up that information or they should be able to ask someone. That paint could be in multiple branded cans.
PPG bought out a whole lot of companies over the years, so there are very few actual paint manufacturers left.
Fantastic work! It’s beautiful! 😊
That sure is a beautiful restoration! I wonder if an auto body supply shop might be able to color match the paint for you.
You could clear coat the hood,tank,grill and fenders 🤷♂️ might add a little extra durability. Call it OEM+
Killing it dude. Currently splitting my C due to oil slinger issues
If you really want to keep the contrast between the brass fittings and the red carburetor you could clear lacquer coat the brass. 😅😅
Looking so nice Tobie
Good to see tge hanging Art disappear😅.
Is the radiator cover permanent or will you / did you put the screen material back in behind the grill slates?
Oh, to question your comments about the black generator and stater, if the factory just sprayed everywhere and only a few items were masked, what about the black hose joints and worm gear clamps?
I seen other engine manufacturers (Massy, Ford, John Deere, Dravid Brown, Oliver)
Just
Paint every exposed part,.
Hey Toby,,,great to see the H getting some love.
Looks great from here. If it helps Im from Michigan and there os a Sherwinn Williams store in Adrian, Michigan. Maybe they would have paint you need.
Looks great! Can't wait to hear it run.
Starting to come together! I hope you can get the paint issue worked out.
Good to see some progress on the tractor
Tractor sure does look good, right decision on wet sanding.
Talking about “good paint”, we had the exterior of our condo repainted, didn’t use the garage door for a few days, and when I finally did the drive gear sheared off the opener because the paint stuck so hard 😊
Great to see some progress! Thanks for the video!
She is beautiful. Great job sir as usual.
The distributor tip also goes for the Allis-Chalmers B,C,CA install.
Just incredible.
What would the total cost be for the restoration ? .
Great video, looks good 👍
The fun part after all that hard work! Would the paint have passed the QC inspection at the factory ?
I suspect that particular number [GALPCC135IH] won't be coming back on the market as it is the 3.5 VOC formula. The 2,8 VOC formulation has a different part number [GALPCC285IH] and with the push to reduce VOCs seemingly everywhere, might be more likely to be available in the future.
For that oil line you should check the pictures you took with your phone before disassembly.
so enjoyable seeing the parts being refitted!
Like the update. Everything looking good. One question, though, No gasket on magneto/distributor drive? Oliver crawlers (Hercules engines) that I am familiar with use a gasket at that location so I assumed other engines did as well.
Excellent! Hope that you get little more shop time and get it finished up so you dont have to work/walk around things any more.
Any updates on your radiator for x231?
This question has probably been asked before and may even merit one of your response vids.
Paint: surely any competent paint shop can run up a gallon of the paint as a custom blend? The pant should have a Pantone. Failing that, the tech to scan a colour does exist.
I’ve answered this here a few times already this morning, but to recap - I called 4 different Sherwin Williams locations and kept getting passed off to another store location because “We don’t do that here…” until I was looped back to the first place I had called. I’ve also been seeing that in a couple of the other paint stores that I frequent, they’ll sell you what’s already mixed up in a can but if you’re not an actual auto body business, they don’t really want to start doing custom mixes. I did talk to the main Sherwin Williams mixing facility in Illinois, and if I placed a minimum 250 gallon order, they’d mix that red for me right away lol 😂
@@squatch253 250 gallons would certainly excuse your concern. I’m in the U.K. and small batch custom mixes are commonplace: I’d be happy to make some enquiries for you.
Sorry to hear you are having issues getting paint, I’m in process of restoring a MF and Sherwin Williams has been able to match the MF paint I brought them. I’m in Canada though but they match paint all the time. But may be worth checking across the border!
@@squatch253 Strange. Here in Denmark, I am a service technician for paint tinting machines, mostly for decorative and house paint, but I do service a few for industrial paint, including EFA, which sell readymix in various colors, including "IH Red", which they make in 1000 or more liter batches. The machine that I service, however, is used for custom colors down to quarter liter color sample sizes.
Have you asked Pete from Just a Few Acres what he does?
This is the same paint that he put on his Farmall Super C, and in a rather recent video (probably 5-6 weeks ago) he said they still had this paint in stock at his local stores, but that’s likely because that region still had enough of it still in circulation to be able to move it around. The NAPA stores will ship paint products WITHIN a distribution region, but for some reason they won’t ship them out to a different region. The region that I’m in is completely out of it, and can’t get more unless the main distributor gets more.
Great video!!! Nice progress on the H… thx for sharing!!!
Excellent thanks
Looking good. 👍👍👍👍👍
Could you get someone at a paint shop to use one of the color reading cameras that will print out the color measurements and have custom mix made?
Squatch says thy don't do that anymore in his area. The autopainters use different paint, which is much harder to handle for DIY'ers. Goes on matte and needs clear coat.
they appear to have that paint in stock in my area of oregon but they think its made out of gold. $175 a gallon and they don't ship. in store pickup only. but then i don't normally buy gallons of automotive paint that might be cheap lol.
IH Red in Denmark is $85/US Gallon
It will be fun to see it going again!