Common mistakes when installing a tile floor
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- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2024
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Common mistakes when installing a tile floor. A lot of mistakes are made when installing a tile floor over a plywood subfloor, mistakes that can be easily avoided by just knowing what the installation recommendations are before installing a tile project. In this video I talk about some of the most common misconceptions and mistakes that are made by people installing tile without really knowing what the steps need to get a trouble free installation are. Never assume you know, always verify the steps if you see it done on RUclips by someone that claims to be a tile expert, even me. I always do things the right way, but you may not know that so a little research will show you who you can trust to guide your install. Bellow are some of the videos I efrence in this video.
▶ Tile Geeks App, calculate Floor deflection and much more.◀
Google Play
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App Store
itunes.apple.com/us/app/tile-...
▶Tile Leveling System Explained◀
• Tile Leveling systems ...
▶Schluter Ditra explained and how to install it on Plywood.◀
• Schluter Ditra explain...
▶Cheap tile, get what you pay for.◀
• Cheap tile, get what y...
▶Thinset Mortar, ANSI A118.??? Choose the right type.◀
• Thinset Mortar, ANSI A...
▶Cheap tile, get what you pay for.◀
• Cheap tile, get what y...
▶How to select the correct trowel.◀
• How to select the corr...
All tile installed by Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area. This video contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you click on the product link.
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People watching these videos....you don't realize how lucky we are to have a master tile craftsman take time out to show and explain the CORRECT way !! Most ..if not all the tile companies I see send some no English speaking worker that hasn't a clue to what they are doing...
"put.... the bucket.... down!"
lol, thanks Sal!
Great video.
Cheers,
- Eddy
Great stuff Sal. Once again: So nice to see such comprehensive info put out by an actual professional tradesman who has quality standards. Proud to say that none of this was new to me ..... ;-) Funny the number of customers we go to talkin' to who think they really know something about tile setting because of the RUclips "hacks" they've watched and to have them quickly figure out they really didn't know ANYTHING. lol I don't know about you but, sometimes it's stressfull having to repeatedly make people realize they've made poor choices in who they give credibility to.
Great overview. I appreciate the excellent content from your channel.
Excellent information and fantastic videos. Thanks Sal.
Great video!! Always enjoy a professional that takes pride in his trade
Since I’ve been watching your videos, I find mistakes everywhere I go!!!
great overview Sal. Thin-set comment is one conversion I have with a lot of my friends when they do D.I.Y remodels on bathroom.
Every time i lisen to you Sal i learn something fantastic work .
Great video full of awesome information. Thank you for taking the time to do these helpful videos.
Studying Sals videos for 3 months. Learned a ton and i feel pretty confident once i install tile on my concrete basement. Im scared and intimidated, but i think i will do a decent job. And i have nothing but time right now
Thanks for watching my videos, time and patience, take it slow until you get the hang of it.
Your awesome Sal. Your videos are beyond informative.
It's YOU'RE awesome; not your. You're is short for you are.
Great video always look forward to your Saturday video post's
I laughed at the "put the bucket down" comment. I don't laugh out loud very often at RUclips videos Sal, well done sir.
😄👍
Oh, and thanks for all you do, Sal! We all appreciate it so much!
Thanks Sal. Learned a LOT from this one.
I learned a lot! Thanks for your time
I've been cruising through and paying attention to your videos Sal,,,,, If you lived closer I'd have you doing every tile job in every project I work on. you ARE the man! These are seriously informative. Thanks for sharing information and techniques that you have spent a life's career perfecting. Rest your back and knees my friend and open a Tile trade school.
Thanks, for the kind words. 😊
Great video Sal !!👍👍🍻
Lol, I think I know the unnamed RUclipsr you mention in this video. This video is very, very informative and one of the best that I've come across thus far. I've watched several of your videos and your experience and craftmanship are second to none. Your jobs are carefully planned out, from studs to the final grout application. The quality of you work is apparent in details that I look for in a tile job: straight grout lines, lines that align properly and so on. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching my video.
Hi Sal, just want to thank you for the valuable information on this topic. I mean thank God for professional tile setters like you. Also, could you educate us on “travertine” tile, how to install, and the type of thin set mortar to use for this type of tile. I don’t know if you have a video about this.
For any type of natural stone tile it is important to get the correct mortar coverage, 95% and also back butter every tile to fill voids. The tile should be sealed before grouting and they all require a much stronger substrate on floors. these are just a few important points.
Hi Sal, thanks so much for your excellent videos. Pkease what do you mean by fully supported?
Sal, do you have any video with tips on tiling a backsplash wall that is wavy?
I am new to tiling. Retired and trying to be a DYI person. I made sure all the items in your video were done. Decided to use Ditra and have 12 x 12 porcelain tiles. Since I have never used thin set before, I did not do a great job of putting the Ditra down. I have some lumps. They are not big, but my flat floor is no longer as flat as it was. I purchased the leveling system you discussed in one of your video’s, figured I better get all the help I can when I start doing the tile. This is a pretty small area, a 10’ X 12’ kitchen floor. Prior to starting the tiles, am I in trouble because the floor is no longer as flat as it was? Any suggestions, as I’ve probably gone too far to stop now.
I define deflection as the thing that made one of my travertine tiles crack despite adding substructure and an extra layer of half inch plywood.
Had we been told by the tile salesperson of the special requirements for travertine we would have gone with porcelain instead.
But - with your advice Sal I was able to replace the one cracked tile and we’re back in business.
Glad to hear it Tim, 👍😄
Haha Sal I love ya I always tell people to head into any bathroom at most restaurants and you will see some real shady work to funny your always on point maybe some day we will bump into each other me and my dad bathroom remodelers were from Nashua nh area like always awesome video with all correct advice you respect the trade and it shows thanks Sal
I do get around, so you never know, we might bump into each other someday.
Sal, ready to tile a gutted bath. Using hydro ban 4x8 panels in shower you recommend a vapor barrier on walls?
Have you installed delta board? I have an issue where the plasterboard wall was found to be totted out. I replaced the plasterboard wall with new plasterboard. I was advised to pva the plasterboard, let this dry and then apply delta board. What substrate material would you advise on using in a non wet room that has a shower with enclosed screen to keep water within enclosed area. The area outside the enclosed shower area has a chipboard base at present.
I used Ditra over my 3/4" plywood floor in my 6 x 8 bathroom. I demolished the entire floated bathroom. I failed to recognized the hills and depressions in the plywood. The Ditra magnified these flaws. I had to remove everything to include the plywood. I then installed clean sheets of 3/4" plywood and then used self-leveling compound. Smooth as glass now.
Hi Sal! I really appreciate your videos and used them to do all the prep work myself for a shower surround and custom shower in our bathrooms. I wasn't confident enough to do the tile myself and hired a tile company.
However, I didn't choose well. The plumbing for the handheld piece of the shower was tiled over it. They started removing tile to find it. The tiles popped off easily, had little thinset on the back, and the grooves of the trowel were still intact on the wall. I started to inspect the job more closely. I found that I could easily still see the Redgard in the spaces between tile. I asked them to stop working, inspected all the rest of their work, sent them a request to repair/redo where needed. I haven't heard back for weeks. If I have to proceed without them, what would you suggest? Can I have the tiles removed and scrape down the old thinset or do we need to take off everything down to the studs? Thanks for any advice.
Can't possibly know the answer to that, sounds like they spot bonded which is a big mistake. I would suggest you start over, who knows what else is done wrong. You don't want to finish the tile and then find out it leaks or has other major problems.
Dear Sal, Thank you for all your help ! It's good to learn from you how to do the job the right way. You're fantastic !
👍😊
Hi sal,I hope your fingers aren't raw,or hurt....great Info I'm gunna use dilex eke,on my shluter shower,and rondec,ive been gathering all the bits and pieces,what movement joints do you like,other than caulk, it's almost been a year since I began moms remodel, about to pour concrete 4x9,recessed to accept the presloped floor ,w 2 48inch linear ,under a floating bench,w invsibolts ,I'm using perfect level master,THANKS,FOR EDUCATING
Sal, you crack me up!
"Maybe I'll put a link in the description. Maybe I won't."
"Put down the bucket and walk away."
😂😂😂👍
😊👍
Exactly right do it right from the beginning and it will save you headaches in the long run from doing twice to wasting personal time
These videos have turned me into a psycho. Ill find myself standing in line at wendys counting all the mistakes on the tile work, lol. Great videos, us DIY really appriciate you taking the time Sal. My stuff still isnt as nice as yours, but you help me do nice work.
Just trying to get the info out.
Once you start to learn proper flooring installation you will be examining floors everywhere you go and finding dozens of mistakes in every one. It's kind of a curse!
Love your channel Sal. Building a home in Northwest corner of Connecticut. The 84x26 rectangle home was designed with floor trusses expanded 24 feet with two on foundation. I added a glued and screws 1 1/8 thick Advantech TG subfloor. Rather than 16 on center I added more for 12 on center. I’m concerned with deflection since center of home a wide open space. With the way I beefed up the floor trusses, have you seen problems with long expansion floor trusses?
That is a question for an engineer. Best to consult one and have him calculate the deflection.
Best ever expertise ❤️❤️❤️🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
👍😊
Hey Sal, great videos. any recommendations for tile layout when tiling a tub shower where the end walls are only 3 inches longer then a full tile? (tiles are 10 by 30 tub surround is 33 inches wide) Thanks!
Try several layouts that will give you a balanced end result with cuts as large as possible. Often times starting at the centerpoint with a quarter tile will work.
Hey Sal, I’ve watched almost all your videos preparing for my own DIY bathroom remodel.
Question : I live in Texas and we have concrete foundation. My wife wants 30” x 30” concrete look porcelain tile in our bath. What are your thoughts about level of difficulty and what’s the smallest grout line I can have. Thanks again for all the videos and answering everyone’s questions.
Side note, there is currently 18” x 18” tile installed, about 10 years ago with no cracks.
The bigger the tile, the harder it is to install, grout line will be determined by the tile, but I am going to guess that those tiles are rectified, however I would still not go less than 1/8 for grout line. Make sure your floor is flat, use a large trowel and comb both the substrate and tile and set with lines going in the same direction, do not criss cross. Use a good leveling system. If this is your first attempt at tile, I would not try it.
Sal, i am renovating a 90 year old house and will be tiling a bathroom floor with mosaic porcelain tile. The subfloor is now exposed and appears to be fir 1x6 boards placed on diagonal over 2x8 joists on 16” centers. Boards have ~ 1/16 to 1/8 inch gaps. I was going to use a duroc base over it, but after watching another video of yours, I’m leaning toward an uncoupling membrane instead. If you were in my shoes, would you lay plywood over subfloor, and if so, would 1/4” be okay?
I notice Sal has a triple monitor setup. He has work related stuff on the screens, but I suspect he's a hard core gamer! LOL
Used to be a gamer, those days are gone, but I can't go back to one or even two screens.
@@SalDiBlasi wow, never would thought that of you :)
Is it ever a bad idea to simply place a 1/4" plywood layer over the existing subfloor, then cover with uncoupling membrane, then installing the porcelain tile?
He plays a tile setting simulator after hours. 😂
At around the six minute point you were quoting from the ANSI handbook. At 6:14 I think you mistakenly said "feet", when I think you actually meant inches. If the maximum allowable variation in floor depth for tiles shorter than 15" on the longest side is 1/4" in ten feet, then it would follow that the 1/16" maximum would be for 12 inches, as opposed to twelve feet as you stated in the video.
donkeydump63 That part is very confusing, it also sounds like when he ends it with 24 inches, he means to say 24 feet. However, I think we get the gist, the floor has to be flat!
Can I lay tile on top of sealed brick you think? what would be the considerations?
IS IT OK TO DOUBLE UP ON 6MM CEMENT BOARD ON 18 MM PLY SAL
Hi Sal love your videos , can tile go on top of existing tiles on shower floor ?
Depends, if there are no leaks, and you are absolutely sure that the existing tile has no issues at all, because the new tile will only be installed as good as the old, then yes. If you do decide to do it then clean thoroughly, prime with a bond enhancer like Mapei EcoPrimgrip www.mapei.com/US-EN/Tile-&-Stone-Installation-Systems/Bond-Promoting-Primer/ECO-Prim-Grip
For field movement joints with 1/16" grout lines, should you do the joints larger like 1/8" or 1/4" to accommodate the movement? 1/16" is probably too small for movement joints right?
TCNA asks for 1/4"
I think I missed it but once L/360 is calculated how do you determine if the floor meets or exceeds that deflection? Is the center of the floor weighed down with a specified weight and the deflection measured at that point? Thanks Sal appreciate your work!
Link to an app in the description.
Sal - You should give us a tutorial on that computer setup you have and your RUclips editing process flow! What monitors are those?
Nothing special, just three Dell monitors. When you go from on e to two monitors you can never go back to one, same with three, no going back. 😄
Sal's next video: 4 monitors
Thanks
So is it ok for me to use cheap thin set for Ditra and expensive thin set for tiles. And the floor joint 2x10 green treated seem to have a lot of deflection, so how you measure the deflection anyway.
Never use cheap thinset, always a premium type, it is the glue that hold everything together, not the item you want to skimp on. Watch this video, ruclips.net/video/74BDTI67S1M/видео.html a link to the app is in the description of that video
Hi i try to install some concrete cement board on plywood what type of thin set should i use please Modify or un modify thanks
Use a low quality modified thinset, it is there just to give support the the board, not hold it down.
Sal do you use any kind of primer on a plywood floor that is going to get thinset and a cement put on top of it?
Meaning primer on the plywood first?
No, just use the correct mortar.
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!
@ Sal DiBlasi : ) Do you have any videos on Hydronic radiant tile flooring? Or just advice on installing Bekotec panels with the Ditra uncoupling membrane system?
I do not, but contact your schluter rep for advice.
Ok. Recommend anyone in Cincinnati area for that? I'm no longer on the same career path in my trade after a massive spinal injury and hence I don't get out as much to meet anyone as often. So.. if you have a Cincy business to recommend, lmk. Thanks!
@@jackovoltraids5937 Call Schluter, they can help you.
Maestro 👍
I've got a Redgard vs. Ditra question: I live in a flood-prone area and we are looking into finishing our basement. We're thinking about using a large format porcelain tile on our concrete subfloor. I was wondering, how does Redgard compare to Ditra, and do they both serve the same purpose? Which product would be better to use, and why? I noticed that Redgard is significantly cheaper, but is there something that Ditra does that Redgard doesn't do? Where we live in an area prone to flooding, will either product adequately serve our needs? I just want to make sure that, should a flood happen, I won't have to rip out all the tile work due to some underlying issues (if possible). Also, any advice specific to those who are finishing basements in flood-prone areas (materials, etc.)?
So they are two completely different products, Redgard is a liquid applied waterproofing membrane with elastomeric properties, acts as a crack isolation membrane as well as waterproofing. It is applied by painting the surface with two coats at the correct mil thickness to achieve the proper properties of the product, not as easy as you might think. Ditra is a sheet product that uncouples the floor form the tile, it is 1/8" thick, allows for vapor equalization under the ditra can be applied to green concrete, is also a waterproofing membrane when the seams are treated with Kerdi band and is also a crack isolation membrane as well as the uncoupling membrane. The two can not be compared and the ditra is a far superior product. I would not even consider substituting Redgard for ditra.
@@SalDiBlasi Thanks for the info. Would it then be a bad idea to use both products before installing the tile? Would moisture get trapped between the Redgard and Ditra layers?
SIR: i know you are extremely busy but here is my question in case you don't sleep(!): my underlayment is 3/4 plywood, everything as been done like the Tile Guide & Shluter BUT i have a deflection of 3/8 in the middle of the bathroom. I am installing Ditra-Heat. I think that i should put a self-leveling compound, but don't know which one and can't find EdgeBan around where i live, and also don't know if a primer is obligatory BEFORE pouring the sell-leveling compound. Thank you for all. Have a great 2020 full of tiles.
Primer is always required and any holes or gaps where the self leveler can escape must be plugged. An expansion joint must be left at the walls, you can use foam Sill Seal amzn.to/30XwcZT and then just slice off the high parts after you install your leveler.
Do you have any videos where the base of the floor is mud (not shower stalls)? If not, have you ever done that? Or do the newer modern methods make that wasteful and obsolete?
I used to do large floors in mud, years ago, today the only mud I do is in showers, not obsolete, but not often used in most places.
If you determine that the subfloor has too much deflection and needs to be made more rigid (higher L value), and you decide to add a plywood underlayment, what would be the best and easiest method to use to trim the plywood panel 1/4" along the edges and/or ends to create the perimter joints? Table saw? Or would using my circular saw with a straight edge as a guide work well on the job site since I don't have a table saw? Have a floor job coming up installing LFT and am thinking maybe I should just try to get the 4' x 8' edges pre-cut at the box store.
You need to reword your question, not quite understanding it. 1/4" plywood has no structural value, so it can't be used to for that purpose. 3/8 is the absolute minimum, but 1/2" is much better. If you need to make your floor stiffer, you should consult an engineer to have a suitable plan. Not a tile setters job to design the floor structure, but good practice to see if it is suitable for tile.
Sal, sorry for the poorly worded question: The floor I'm tiling over is just under 8 ft. wide (about 7 ft. 11 in.) I plan to use plywood panels as underlayment to stiffen the 5/8" subfloor. Was wondering what you would use to trim the long edge of a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood so it would fit in this scenario, a table saw or a circ saw with a guide.
I won't use the 1/4" plywood if it has no structural value then. My other question: Is a 1 3/16" difference in finished floor height after I install the tile too much to use a transition reducer trim piece with? After I install the 3/8" ply, the 1/8" Ditra with thinset underneath and on top, plus the 5/16" tile, the final height will be 1 3/16" from a door entrance. Thanks Sal!
To cut the plywood to size I would just use a circular saw, be sure to leave a space at the walls, if you need to have a joint where two pieces of plywood meet, also leave a gap, about 1/8" . At the transition, use whatever works to finish the edge, could be an oak threshold, some kind of metal trim, whatever works and looks good.
Thanks, man!
Hi Sal, Great videos compare! Can you please give me some input? I am installing radiant heat, 1/2" pex tubing on the second floor, 3/4" tongue and groove subfloor. On top of the subfloor I got Tyvek, then 1/4" XPS (extruded polystyrene) rigid insulation panels, on top of the XPS I installed the galvanized diamond mesh. Ever seen this done? This room is over a non-insulated patio. Of course I installed insulation under the subfloor as well. The radiant heat company reccomends the XPS to minimize heat losses to the sub floor. I then embedded the assembly in 1 3/4" mud. Going to install porcelain. You think the XPS will cause the floor to possibly crack? I already layed the mud, this past weekend. Was NOT going to use a decoupling membrane. Maybe I should? What do you think? Grazie Salvo!
Never seen that done, might want to contact the manufacturer to get some input.
@@SalDiBlasi Thanks for the reply. On exterior installations, where I am installing over a ground contact concrete slab, they reccomend a minimum of 2" rigid XPS panels a top the slab, then 2 1/2" wire reinforced mortar bed over the XPS. The radiant tubing is in the bed with regular thin set tile over the top. Otherwise any heat is lost to the environment. Alternatively, the original slab should have been poured over the XPS to begin with, which its too late for that. The XPS isolates the heat to the overlying slab.
Brilliant
😊👍
Glad I saw Sal.
😊👍
Hi I will install porcelain tile on the floor, 1 feet by 2 feet can you help me what kind of thin-set to buy at Lowe's Thanks
Yes, go elsewhere I have no clue what they have there. thi should help. ruclips.net/video/BJoPHGtukqo/видео.html
Do you have any videos where u install tile baseboard
You have any videos on the use of self-leveling compound?
Sorry, I do not, since I usually work alone, and self leveler is very time sensitive, it is not easy to oth install and film at the same time.
Sal DiBlasi ok. Thank you
Solid
Do you have a tool for checking deflection in floors
Link to an app in the description, "Tile Geeks" app.
Should construction adhesive be used between the plywood panels in addition to using screws or ring shank nails to fasten them?
No
Thank you for the lightning-quick reply. I've found one source that recommends it, but only one. All others I've consulted online (so far) do not. My guess is that it was given as a practical tip to hold the panels in position until screwed down.
The construction adhesive is actually a bad idea, you want the plywood to have full contact, adding a bead of adhesive can create small gaps. Also there are very specific instructions on how the top layer of plywoid should be installed to do it properly
Got it. It's my understanding that one of the most overlooked steps is correctly offsetting the ends of the top layer with respect to the ends of the bottom one.
This is a good reference for the plywood installation. It is the Ditra Handbook, but Page 21 deals with how to install the plywood. s3.amazonaws.com/scclegacy/media/ditra-handbook_eng.pdf?v=201507140600
Love how Sal is rocking triples and a RGB keyboard/mouse. "It's paarfect." #TileOG
Don’t ask the salesperson at the big box store. SO TRUE!
Hey Sal, I can't find a T-Lock leveling system with 3/16" clips. I checked dibsmart and others and they all seem to come with 1/16" or 1/8" size clips. I'm installing long planks, non-rectified, and am concerned about warpage and variance, that's why I want to play it safe with a slightly larger grout line than 1/8".
Don't come in 3/16, but you can use them with another spacer to keep your grout line.
Thanks for your guidance, Sal. I need to get my hands on one of these systems and try it out.
Will these 1/16" spacers work? dibsmart.com/product/reusable-spacers-1-3mm-132-18-100-pack/
Thank you for the information, very useful. What floor tile should I use if I don't want any grout line, I want the edges of the tiles touching together. I heard that ceramic tiles are not of exact measurement, so butting them together wont't work. Any suggestions? Many thanks.
Minimum grout joint is 1/16" no exceptions. if you want tight fit, you will have to use something other than tile.
Thank you for your prompt response. How about the tile dimensions, which ones are most accurately machined? Many thanks again.
Is it ever a bad idea to cover the existing subfloor with 1/4" plywood, then installing the uncoupling membrane, then installing the porcelain tile?
Minimum thickness of plywood in any tile assembly is 3/8" the 1/4 plywood has no structural value and will deform and cause loose tiles when it absorbs moisture from the thinset.
@@SalDiBlasi thanks, Sal. Great vids. So helpful.
we need more videos of you goin "on and on"!
Tape seams? You talking on wallboard? We do not tape a seams on wooden underlayment do we? Thanks for all your video's.
listen to this man
👍
What are your thoughts about tiling over hardwood flooring? I have 3/4 oak prefinished floors with the beveled edges so popular 20yrs ago.
Bob Reikowski
I’m not a tile-man by trade but I am a carpenter/ tradesman in kitchen remodeling. I highly DO NOT recommend tiling directly onto hardwood floors! It’s probably one of the worse things you can do and I’m sure Sal would agree.
Bad news! You can't tile over a solid hardwood floor.
Gar Mar Even with ditra?
Hardwood floors expand and contract way too much to support a tile install. The hardwood will need to be removed, possibly a layer of ply put down, then your tile substrate (i.e. Ditra) then the tile. That's only if you want to do the job once.
No. Brian A. has good advice :)
"...you might as well get a little hammer and chip all your edges so it looks like you meant to do it." *chuckle*
I had a customer argue with me that he wanted stone put down and the deflection was 400. I told him I can get an architect in to stiffen the floor, make it stronger, he told me where to go, he got someone else to lay the stone and 2 years later part of the floor collapsed and the tiles tented.
Well what do you know, ignore the requirements, suffer the failure. Good thing you did not do it, or you would be paying to fix it.
If the minimum grout line is 1/16” why do you carry 1/32” t-lock clips in your store?
Sorry, 1/16 is the minimum no matter what.
Actually sell very few 1mm but some people also use them in conjunction with a spacer of their choice.
19:53 haha, I know who he’s talking about. That other guy has some non conventional approaches. While he can do whatever he wants for his customers it’s not a good idea to show these techniques to inexperienced people.
21:00 I usually use Mapei thinset, like the stuff. The plastic bag makes it easy to handle. Had to get a bag of some other brand from Home Depot and hated it, the paper bag made it a pain to handle and pour.
You can see the actual moment of pain when Sal has to think about that certain someone at 19:53 haha
Direct me to the channel he is talking about. I want to see lol
SAL is my tile GOD!!!!!
And yes, they installed it right thru the kitchen to include under the fridge and dish washer.
Mastic is my worst enemy. No one wants to listen even though I tell every customer in 95% of cases you do not want to be using mastic. PUT THE BUCKET DOWN!
I also just checked out a tile installation less than 6 months old that exploded, they thought there was a sinkhole or small earthquake. Tenting doesn't even cover this they blew up like grenades. No expansion joints and grouted right up to the baseboard. Expansion joints are SUPER IMPORTANT!! Exploding tile is dangerous.
My best advise: if your dealing with someone at a store or a contractor: ask where their TCNA handbook is. Blank stare, move on. I have my schluter 2018 copies at my desk at work, and another at home. Not every big box store aassociate/specialist is clueless btw :) ASTM F-710 is another important standard for flooring to ask about (though TCNA standards are even more strict).
Oh, get over yourself.
Hell Yhea these the thing my old Armenia bosss wouldn’t wanna say in english
😊👍
My mom had a contractor put tile in the bathroom. He put the tile down right on top of the plywood subfloor. It failed within a year, now the tile is all cracked. I now live in the house, and now I have to fix it somehow.
Unfortunately the best & most effective way to fix your failing ft. Floor is a complete tare out & follow Sals steps for a fail proof floor
Yes, I fully expect I'm going to be tearing it out, since most of the tiles are cracked and ruined. I'm debating whether to put in a vinyl floor in place of the tiles.
@@Aelanna that is entirely up to you but, tile if installed correctly can last a life time & is more durable than vinyl.
I'm not sure I have the skills to tile myself, but I know I can put down vinyl. ;)
Plastec wire mesh 5 to 1 mix sand and cement slurry bang in, no other system is as versatile or reliable. Glue companies well Point towards failures but you know what you are doing I just say Pompeii is my guarantee
The damn ply-wood costs more than the frikin' tile! I went to look at the ply-wood at Home Depot and next thing ya' know the manager has me sitting at a desk asking me "what do we gotta do to get you to leave with that ply-wood today".
Lower the price.
Put video on 1.75 speed.
You can't correct an unlevel plywood subfloor. The only method that works is using self leveler.
Sal!!! We're you cheatin.... Useing red gard?!?! Hahaha
Installed some of the cheap stuff this week. 🙄🤪
Hey son, come here and let's have a talk. Instead of you spending 4 years meandering through college and then afterwards trying to get a $30,000 per year "marketing" job with a $60,000+ education loan around your neck we have another option. We are sending you up North to work with Mr. DiBlasi to become a tile man. During the time you are there you will do exactly what he says and exactly how he says to do it. When you do finally come back here you will be able to land jobs immediately because of your excellent work. That, in addition to some night courses that will teach you how to grow and manage your business, will enable you to make a nice living, provide for your family, and become a respected man in your community. When people talk about you they will use phrases like, "best tile man I know." And you will know it was because you were trained by Mr. DiBlasi. Now, go pack a bag. Your bus leaves in 30 minutes.
😆 Not that far off from reality, plenty of well paid careers in the trades.
He is saying dye lot! I thought it sounded like dialogue. Haha.
I encourage my own customers to ask
2 “yes-or-no” questions of bidding tilesetters.
These questions aren’t meant to replace or supersede other means of sorting through contractor’s qualifications.
1) Can you reference the most recent TCNA Handbook?
It you get a response like, “What book”?, seriously consider “showing them the door.”!
2) Can you show me the cell phone number of a manufacturers’ rep of the setting materials that you use?
Does the contractor have any appreciation whatsoever for efforts that companies make toward establishing quality?
-If so, have they even once reached out to a manufacturer’s rep?
-If so, did they add the rep’s cell phone to their cellphone’s phone book?
So … the 2nd question CAN BE effective!
Make hiring the “best tilesetter” your goal.
The materials are innocent.
It’s the workmanship that matters.
(Setting materials are the mortar, self levelers, membranes, grouts, etc…
that are used to install tile.
Companies that make mortar, etc ….
have reps in the field that are willing to educate contractors.)
So…… Is this contractor humble enough to ask pertinent questions of a person representing the materials that they use?
Have they repeatedly asked pertinent questions over the years?
And how well does this rep know the contractor?
-Each occasion a lesson is learned …..
the closer to using safe practices the contractor will be.
-The true valid safety that they experience, will, in turn, encourage them to ask even more questions toward quality, and to ask those questions for right reasons.
Now, I would disagree about one particular point that Sal made.
Yes, problems can compound, but just one serious problem can, by itself, fail an installation.
I know that Sal knows this.
My goal is to eventually agree with Sal.
1) lack of movement accommodation.
Sal addressed this close to the end of the video.
2) NOT breaking the “surface tension” of a self leveler, if required, and at the proper time, can cause a large amount of tile to not be properly considered set at all.
This is all apart of surface rep.
3) failing to use a primer, when one is called for, can definitely cause massive failure.
4) not respecting temperature requirements, can be a huge cause of failures.
5) Search for a RUclips video called, “Trowel & Error”.
It describes how to get proper coverage below or behind the tile.
Sal’s accommodating and allowing for the cause of even one failure CAN be uhhhhh semi-correct, but is mostly wrong, based on the lack of experience of this particular audience.
His reasoning seems to allow for xyz amount of failure, and not with quality as a goal.
You want good tile work?
1) reduce the scope of the project, and
2) know who to hire.
-I have seen thousands of failed tile installations, and
-interpreted the results by use of the NTCA Reference Manual and,
-especially so, having been in dialogue with manuf’r reps, where I actually listened.
The NTCA Reference manual can be purchased by anyone.
DIy’ers, ….. seriously consider visiting
tile-assn.com, and then go on to order a TCNA Handbook AND an NTCA Reference Manual.
I use the later daily.
And my cell phone to call reps.
Both organizations use the same letters.
You aren’t dyslexic.
TCNA: Tile Council of North America.
NTCA: National Tile Contractor’s Assn.
You do not need to be an engineer to tell people how to strengthen a floor. You can use cement board, you can cross member under floor between trusses.