I agree with the others, best window resealing video out there! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You are a great teacher. Some might know these things but not know how to teach someone. You did great! Thank you!
Great job showing how to use the butyl tape doubled around. But I so need where to buy new rubber gaskets. I'm off to do more searches. Basically my 2002 RV wasn't given much TLC. Left out in mid-west where the elements dried out the gaskets not just shrank them up. Brittle and dry they can't be resoftened up and restretched to work. Turns out it's difficult to locate substitute gaskets let alone original style. My windows have 3 different gaskets so off I go. Great job showing how we need to use the butyl tape however. Well done and thanks for sharing.
Great video! You showed every step. I have watched other repair videos that use foam insulation tape instead of butyl tape and I thought to myself, the foam is going to absorb water. It didn't make sense to me. But butyl tape seals out the water. Nothing is getting in there!
I would love to see some pictures of your Fleetwood, check out some of my other video’s I have done on my rig. I will be doing a video on adding a second fresh water tank under the Kitchen sink area soon and I just finished a video on the solar system I installed.
This is great! I know we are going to have to do this as well. Currently renovating an 86 Toyota odyssey on our channel. Thanks for sharing your journey, definitely saving us time and effort with research. Cheers!
I am renovating a 89' Toyota Odyssey. Doning windows this week! :). I have a different layout than you two and an aluminum frame that I did not know I had! Love Toyotas!
This video is a great resource for my up coming project of taking the window glass apart, cleaning the fog and resealing them. You have some fog in those windows, I’m surprised you didn’t go all the way. Perhaps you have another video on that process? Anyway this video is a great help, much appreciated!
I have my work cut out for me. I have a 2008 Bounder, all windows are fogged. My biggest concern are the two windows used for seeing the mirrors. I am going to give it a go!
Thank you for this demonstration on how to reseal the front window. Any videos on the side sliders with gaskets? That's my source of leak and want to tackle myself. Trying to find a video on those. Any links of your videos or others is greatly appreciated! Thanks
My windows had the rubber gaskets as well, I removed them and applied the butyl tape. The rubber gaskets are not very forgiving when the caulking gets any cracks or holes. Where as the butyl squeezes tight against the rv and the window.
Thank you so much for inspiring video, I did not know how to access this big front window as it is not easily accessible . With you I now know how to repair , reseal and make a scaffold. Thanks for awesome and useful video!
Your welcome 🙏🏽 best of luck with your rv project. Feel free to comment with any questions you may have. I have a background in construction & have renovated many rv’s
My husband and I have a 1988 Jamboree Rallye 3000 by Fleetwood. It’s on a Ford Econoline 350 club wagon XL. It has 86,401 km on the odometer. The motor works great however it has some water damage on the inside. We have had it for five or six years now, and have not used it much. My husband sealed the roof, but we have some window work and interior woodwork to fix. Trying to decide if it is worth fixing. Just discovered your channel and will be checking out your videos. This one on the window repair looks doable!
The thing with water damage is water runs down hill. So if the roof leaked really bad most likely there could be some damage in the walls and floor area’s. When we bought our Motorhome I first looked at new ones and also some newer used ones and in Ontario Canada the prices where a hundred and forty thousand for a new one and most of the used ones where at least $65,000 that where worth buying, the used ones had 150,000 miles on them. So if an older one is fixable and you where able to buy it for a reasonable amount it’s definitely worth fixing. I was able to buy ours for $20,000 with 17,000 miles on it and it was very well looked after and maintained. We spent $10,000 completely remodelling the inside, I completely resealed the roof and outside and updated the electronics adding solar panels, inverters etc. Just one word of advice if you start removing inside walls and such to repair be very slow and precise as these units aren’t built like a house and you can remove framing members that make it hard to rebuild and make it look good or as close to original as possible. Anyhow thanks for watching and good luck if you decide to fix the old girl up. Cheers Rob
@@WATCHLLS that is great advice. I believe the damage is from a window. We are on Prince Edward Island so your Canadian content is also appreciated. The materials you use should be available here. Thanks again.
1)Did I miss where you trimmed the Butyl Tap off??? How to trim the tape , Please. 2)Please educate on which Pro Flex Clear caulking as there are 3 types that I saw on line....A)Acrylic B)Rubber or C) Silicone
The tape comes in different colours, widths & thicknesses. 1/8 “ thick is good, I used Grey & found it best to purchase it from an RV dealer or repair shop. Some tape purchased from like Amazon is dry. Hope this helps. Rob
For the prep and cleaning it seems you relied on your heat gun, metal scraper, Goo Gone, and Simple Green. And I noticed the comment about Brake Cleaner which sounds like a nice option with the absence of residue. Then, its double butyl tape at a 45 degree angle on the outer edge of window frame and tightening the window frame screws like lug nuts on a car’s wheel. Trim the excess. Then the masking, a bead of the Geocel flexible caulking, neatened up with a soapy watery finger. Finished! Huzzah!
Awesome video. Can I ask you what type of caulk would you recommend to seal windows on a painted aluminum trailer? Also,should I do the butyl tape like you did? Thanks in advance.
Today is the DAY. Applying the double layer of butyl tape today. Everythings super squeaky cleaned and wiped down with alcohol to be sure no residue of any kind remains. How did you remove the squeezed out excess butyl around the window once screwed back into place? I see you are preparing a tape form/frame around the outside window and the wiindow edge to protect it too to apply the caulking. I was wondering if you removed it with a knife like a razor box cutter or does it cut off with just a dull tool that cuts through it. Also can I do this after a couple of days or do I need to do it asap? I do not have quite as much butyl tape ooze out evenly around my window as you did. It's more uneven. My husband said three of our 17 screws that go around the window are stripped out and he'll fix those. I hope to get the bondo wood filler on the water damaged wall tomorrow so we can get that window on by end of week and before our next 90 degree plus temps roll in. Also we think we can get the window above sofa done tomorrow. It shows no sign of leaking but wouldn't be surprised if we did find it was starting. Goo Gone has been most helpful cleaning the windows and the RV window openings too. This is an R-Vision 22 year old Trail-lite 211Ford and from the best I can guess is it's past owners didn't take much interest in her more neglectful than abusive on one hand but their neglect really was a form of abuse we are discovering. Still I'm pretty sure she'll be a great RV with a lot of Vim and Vigor so to speak once we've got her repairs done and she's had inside and outside deep cleaning. I'm still working on completing her upholstery work. But want to wash the fabric ceiling and swap out the now failing ceiling buttons with new once I've got her washed. I could remove some inside cabinet pieces that are covered with the ceiling fabric and try three products to clean it with. I've narrowed it down to one. It doesn't look like anything will white or lighten up the failed adhesive and or yellowing foam that's showing through the white fabric. It looks like this yellowing that shows through randomly throughout the fabric giving it a dingy cast is age related. Cleaning it will help but won't improve this yellowing. It's clear this RV was never garaged or stored inside or even under a cover until I bought her. Thanks for your help and this video is by far my favorite on window repairs. PS I almost ruined my first window today. I pulled off the rubber down to one strip left across the top of the upper fixed window. That glazing just wasn't going to come out. I got a needle nose pliers and went at both ends of this stubborn piece. About this time I'm thinking this isn't just hardened and stuck in glazing maybe it's plastic. I'm then finding aluminum bits exposed and I'm thinking oh no it's plastic with an aluminum core....then I realize it's all aluminum painted black and looks identical to the rubber glazing I'd pulled out right up to it. ????? After calling my husband out to see what a mess I'd made of things we concluded the best action going forward would be to take the window fully apart and replace this metal with the new glazing after reassembling. NO, turns out we couldn't get it apart even after we'd removed all the screws holding it together. There were rivets too. So next idea was since we can't remove it to cut off the ends I damaged and bent out, the best next thing was to file the ends smooth as best we could and my husband then added black paint and you can see it if you look but you do have to know to look. He also had the strength to put the new glazing on too. I clearly did not have the strength in my size small female hands. We didn't want to warm the glazing rubber in hot lightly soapy water because we don't want to stretch it and see it shrink again. I did not use lock tite as some people do including our local window company who said they would reinstall our windows and do the glazing too if found the new glazing materials. Since then we decided we are doing a better job ourselves. Also had not discovered the damaged wall yet. Anyway one window in and two to go. So glad this is a SMALL RV. Thanks for this share on how to install an RV window so it won't leak. YES.
Great jobs guys!!. For removing the butyl tape that squeezes out I run a drywall knife around the window holding it on a bit of an angle inwards so the caulking will have some surface to adhere to as well under the window. As far as putting the screws back in you need to get them lined up with the holes on the window to prevent them from breaking, Sometimes even just using a screwdriver instead of a drill driver. I would love to see some pictures of the job if you can post Them, Cheers Rob
Great video! I have replaced 2 windows in my 2008 Thor Chateau Sport and really need to get after window over the cab. That area has been made into storage bins, which turned out great. Not certain yet if I will replace the window or do the same that you did. I also need to replace the running lights and now I can get up there. I'm very interested in the scaffolding you set up. You mention that you attached the smaller ladder to the wood that is leveling the rig. Would you have tied it the same as you did on the passenger side ladder, had it been taller? I have two ladders, like your, one tall and one small. What is the purpose of the board being held up by the support rods? It may be painfully obvious, just need some guidance. I really want to work on the front of the motor home and safety is a real concern of mine. Thank you!
Hello Can’t sleep so 😊 I placed the ladders on both sides tied them to the mirrors with rope, I placed some screws through the plank into the ladders for some added support. Not good with heights & getting older so also need to ensure I don’t tumble 😊. The board was too lift the cab over main support rail. Sometimes condensation between the bunk cushions can cause the particle board to get wet & mushy so I supported while I put new bolts & washers. I now have spacers under the cushions to eliminate that issue. Hope this explains 😊 cheers Rob
I'm redoing my slide and found a window was leaking, so I took the window out and just caulked it but now that I see about the Butyl tape, I'm going to re-do the window with tape and then caulk it. Nice video. Assuming the butyl tape is pretty waterproof too correct?
Is there a reason you don't seal the inside window frame with butyl? And what do you call the pushy-twist-long expandable poles holding up the cabover?
Hi Sara, the inside of the window meets up with interior finishes and putting the butyl tape there would make it damage the interior finish plus if water did get behind the window from the outside you wouldn’t want to trap it between the window and the walls. Cheers Rob
Hello, yes I did remove the original rubber gasket. I can’t remember if I used 3/4 or 1” butyl, but it wouldn’t matter which one as they would both work. Best of luck with your RV Reno. :)
I was able to successfully follow all of this and got mine back in and tightly sealed. Unfortunately I still am finding water inside after testing a couple days later. Is there a chance it's coming from where the glass seals to window frame? If so is there a fix for that? Can I just silicone caulk that?
Hello, they are painters poles. www.lowes.ca/product/extension-poles/5-ft-3-in-10-ft-160-cm-305-cm-medium-quick-support-rod-335269?gbraid=0AAAAADiPpoIJ7-0FYMEdpjTGwSCYMm0c2&cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=19746291807&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&&cm_mmc=google-_-19746291807-_--_-&gbraid=0AAAAADiPpoIJ7-0FYMEdpjTGwSCYMm0c2&gclid=CjwKCAjw0N6hBhAUEiwAXab-TU0cEvhILbIPmGI879j8cMZS9JfBNvBlH3jYTSyTxzHd1R8kqtOYeBoC284QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thanks, I used 1/4 thick by 3/4” wide tape (grey colour) don’t buy it from Amazon as the stuff they sell is dry. I bought mine from the local RV dealer. Cheers Rob
Was curious it looks like you used 1" butyl tape? I have 3/4" on hand so wondered if you have a preferred brand. Your roll looked in great shape without dents and misshaped areas due to poor shipping. Just curious. I've got 3 windows to repair. Turns out while I've been searching for a repair shop including a professional Window installer who did repair a friends RV windows 2 years ago they wouldn't touch mine due to the hardened rubber glaze material I need to find first then they would. Also same story from a center calling themselves Everything RV which padded their bill to be more than 3X's what their labor was quoted to me in advance for work. So in the end dang I was worried about the condition of all 3 windows in my RV and sure enough today I am out ripping out old stained carpet under a bench seat to discover the vinyl wall laminate is spongy like just above it and down into it and low and behold the window has to be the culprit. I had removed the canvas cover we protected it with since we bought her in Feb this year in mid April and said we need to cover the windows with plastic until we can get them redone. Hubby was not as sure they were in need. Today as the saying goes..I told you so....is mute. I recall your DIY window video and sure enough found you right away. Our few rural local stores does not carry butyl tape so it's off to Amazon. I can buy Goo Gone Pro local. I'm putting plastic all around the windows today until I can gather all the products needed to do it right. The RV is pretty much mine. It turns out I paid too much though at the time I thought it was spot on. But below freezing hid the water tank spill over damage that had some mildew issues under one seat. I caught a whiff but everyone including husband and neighbor and her son with me buying it never smelled it...but sure enough oh yeah. Seller who was helpful until I told him I located the source and was working on fixing it he cut off from contact then. So he knew. I did take care of that problem and removed the carpet and scraped about 5 cups of wood shavings out of the bay where the water tank fits and sanitized the tank and replaced all hoses and sanitized all water lines too to insure all is good to go. And I went the extra mile and painted the entire box with anti-mold and mildew special paint but before that treated the entire area with Oxine, Odorban lemon and Lysol lemon. The oxine which has little to no scent was the best one of all. I applied a mixture for two days repeating 3 times a day and running fans 24 hours. And then wiped out and sprayed another 3 days with just oxine not activated. Actually no mildew was detected within the 2nd day of the mixtures. But it has a means of creeping back so another 4 days of full treatment I felt wouldn't hurt. Meantime oxine without dilution has a bit of a residue to it so I had to clean that out before 2 layers of the special paint. The plan today 2 weeks since the other work was complete and no mildew had returned I intended to water proof the entire bay compartment under and around the water tank with white tape the kind you use to water proof the edges of your RV roof seams. It has a buytl type of adhesive on the one side and water proof like duct tape on top. Overlapping 4" tape up the entire walls and floor of the bay. All this before I reinstall the tank and it's plumbing plus some electrical boxes that screw to the floor. I intend to add water proof sealing to the new screws too as all old ones removed had rusted badly. I had a bit of paint left over and decided today to remove the carpet from the other bay and spiff it up with the paint just on the partical wood flooring. That's when I discovered the delamination going on in the wall which clearly had not been there a few rain storms before. I did check several times after our first few spring storms and it was dry so I relaxed as hubby suggested. Hind sight is 20/20 as they say. I'm not sure how to poke holes in the vinyl to insure it dries out behind the laminate in the wall but I would rather have to relaminate with vinyl paper than to leave it damp to develop mold. I'll put a fan on it right away. I'm covering the windows with plastic and just cut thick sheet plastic to fit way beyond the windows. I have some removable glue that sticks well to plastic to help get a good seal around it and then will double tape with duct tape around to prevent moisture. I will remove the smaller kitchen window in advance today to get the right rubber gaskets ordered too. My windows need 3 different shapes. I found a company that carries a good supply of rubber shapes. Pelland Enterprises seems to have the best prices and the largest variety of shapes. Wish me luck. I think I understand how some people get over whelmed buying an older RV for the first ever RV they own. Yeah...I'm feeling it. I pride myself on being flexible and dang if I'll give up attitude too. Thank you for your Video so helpful. I was wondering how I could remove even the smaller window by myself. At 5' I'll of course need a solid step ladder but I have several. Your tape solution is spot on. Thank you thank you thank you for your posts.
Hello there, thank you for the message. I buy my butyl from an RV dealer as the stuff from Amazon is stiff & dry. You also need to keep it in a ziplock bag as over time it will dry out. If I couldn’t do my own repairs I couldn’t own an RV. These RV repair shops aren’t trades people, well pretty much every one I have meet. You really need to inspect every seem on the roof & around windows etc after each trip, these units basically are shifting & moving constantly well going down the road. Still have to finish reading your full comment as I am out in the driveway adding a second fresh water tank to Miss Molly (named after our late pup) I will answer any other questions when I’m done reading have fun and cheers
@@WATCHLLS Thank you for taking so much time to reply. I'm working on these today. I've discovered more things on this journey about my windows. They are Hehr 22 years old and have a white foam seal where the butyl tape will take it's place. This white rubber had a probable double stick super thin tape that over time failed and helped lead to the window failures. I' hoping the Butyl tape int 2 layers will be enough but wondering if I need 3 because the rubber foam gasket looks to be more than a 1/4 inch thick before compression. I'm so green at owning an RV I've made a few mistakes in products but overall I've got most right. Thank you for your insight and definitely your videos. Really the most helpful to date.
i called an Rv dealership , i'm in canada and told them i need to re-seal a window and what do i need to buy from them ? he said caulking ,brake cleaner and a scraper ? no mention of butyl tape ?
Interesting the brake cleaner, I know that brake cleaner basically removes dirt, crime etc without leaving a residue. Butyl tape is the main defence to keep the water out. If you just caulk around the window and there is a gap or a crack the butyl tape is there to keep the water out. My Motorhome windows had a really thin plastic rubber membrane instead of butyl tape. Lots of different ways to do things. Did the dealership elaborate on why no butyl tape?
Yeah i put my window in after guy cut corners wromg tried to caulk bunch to put first screw in ring on as i put on window to spider the window 95. $ window now trying to see if i can just replace top window with plexy glass im so stressed first window in my life
Take lots of pictures while you’re disassembling that you can look back on when you’re putting it back together. Yes to much caulking can be as bad as not enough. Thanks 🙏🏽 for watching.
I think it's a little bit too much butyl tape. You're supposed to put the tape on the flat part only. There's no need to put it on the angle part. That's why your window won't fit back in
Winnebago just uses silicone on their motorhomes. What do you say to that? So many other groups just tell people to use silicone. Mineral spirits removes it pretty easy, although I use a plastic razor blade to scrape the rv. Amazon sells them, and they don't scratch the rv.
Yes, lots of RV manufacturing companies use silicone on the roofs that build them with fibreglass or aluminium. All I know is from past experience removing silicone is very difficult and can cause damage to the rv trying to scrape it off. Products like Proflex can be pulled off in almost one piece and don’t dry out and crack like silicone. Thanks for watching. Cheers Rob
That'll be a nightmare ever to have to take it out again because you've got tape all the way in where your putty knife or your razor blade won't get to and it's impossible to get it back out
Pounding on the frame with your fist is not a good idea. Glass does not bend at all. You're better off starting all of the screws from the inside. Slowly start snugging the screws down evenly. Minimize the stress on the glass by following a pattern, similar to remounting head bolts or an oil pan on a car engine. This process will take several cycles before they start to get snug. Don't get crazy with over tightening the screws.
![How To Remove & Reseal an RV Window [RV Window Leak Repair]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7Aka0aUGUE0/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Remove & Reseal an RV Window [RV Window Leak Repair]](/img/tr.png)
That window ain’t gonna leak! Not in this century anyway.
And the use masking tape, I wouldn’t have thought of it. Great job!
Thanks 🙏🏽 😊
I have just discovered a huge leak from a window thank goodness I found this video. I will have to wait until all this rain stops
Hooked for the entire video. Exactly what I need!
Thanks, glad it was helpful 😊
I agree with the others, best window resealing video out there! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You are a great teacher. Some might know these things but not know how to teach someone. You did great! Thank you!
I’m am glad I could help 😊👍
great video, need to reseal my windows,
Excellent job and perfect process/presentation for a long time seal 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
This is one of the best window renovations I've seen so far. Thanks for giving us lots of camera angles so we can really see what your doing!
Thank you, cheers Rob
What kind of glass.
great video and the way its supposed to be done if you want it last .thanks for great tips
Thank you 🙏🏽
Well done! Thank you for sharing.
Great job thank you for sharing all your knowledge.
Thank you, cheers Rob
Great job showing how to use the butyl tape doubled around. But I so need where to buy new rubber gaskets. I'm off to do more searches. Basically my 2002 RV wasn't given much TLC. Left out in mid-west where the elements dried out the gaskets not just shrank them up. Brittle and dry they can't be resoftened up and restretched to work. Turns out it's difficult to locate substitute gaskets let alone original style. My windows have 3 different gaskets so off I go. Great job showing how we need to use the butyl tape however. Well done and thanks for sharing.
A rubber gasket used by window & door companies would work. You could probably buy some at Lowe’s or the depot. Cheers Rob
Love the masking tape trick. I really hate caulking, seems like I create a mess, but the tape will help.
Great video! You showed every step. I have watched other repair videos that use foam insulation tape instead of butyl tape and I thought to myself, the foam is going to absorb water. It didn't make sense to me. But butyl tape seals out the water. Nothing is getting in there!
@@lawolfe2707 Thanks 🙏🏽 for watching 😊
Glad I found this video. I'm sealing two windows on a used truck bed shell soon and needed to see the butyl tape work for that.
I am glad I was able to help 😊
Thank You . We are right in the middle of doing one and this was very informative..
Your welcome 🤗
Holy crow I didn't think it would have been that hard to bolt the window back on, burned up two bits but i think its sealed, thanks for the video
You got me myself and I. 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Nice video, I have the same 2000 Fleetwood Class C that I am restoring. This was a great help, thanks.
Your welcome, really well built Motorhome. Cheers Rob
I would love to see some pictures of your Fleetwood, check out some of my other video’s I have done on my rig. I will be doing a video on adding a second fresh water tank under the Kitchen sink area soon and I just finished a video on the solar system I installed.
This is great! I know we are going to have to do this as well. Currently renovating an 86 Toyota odyssey on our channel. Thanks for sharing your journey, definitely saving us time and effort with research. Cheers!
Hi Joe & Emma,
Looking forward to watching your Reno, cheers Rob
I am renovating a 89' Toyota Odyssey. Doning windows this week! :). I have a different layout than you two and an aluminum frame that I did not know I had! Love Toyotas!
Thank you - Exactly what I was looking for..
Your welcome 😊
This video is a great resource for my up coming project of taking the window glass apart, cleaning the fog and resealing them. You have some fog in those windows, I’m surprised you didn’t go all the way. Perhaps you have another video on that process? Anyway this video is a great help, much appreciated!
Thank you, I didn’t worry about the fog on this window as it’s not really used. The curtain remains closed. Glad the video helped 😊
I have my work cut out for me. I have a 2008 Bounder, all windows are fogged. My biggest concern are the two windows used for seeing the mirrors. I am going to give it a go!
Good stuff.
Thank you for this demonstration on how to reseal the front window. Any videos on the side sliders with gaskets? That's my source of leak and want to tackle myself. Trying to find a video on those. Any links of your videos or others is greatly appreciated! Thanks
My windows had the rubber gaskets as well, I removed them and applied the butyl tape. The rubber gaskets are not very forgiving when the caulking gets any cracks or holes. Where as the butyl squeezes tight against the rv and the window.
Well done sir! This is a good job.
Thank you 🙏🏽
@@WATCHLLS 👍👍👍
and thank you for sharing ! great tips to follow !
Thank you so much for inspiring video, I did not know how to access this big front window as it is not easily accessible . With you I now know how to repair , reseal and make a scaffold. Thanks for awesome and useful video!
Your welcome 🙏🏽 best of luck with your rv project. Feel free to comment with any questions you may have. I have a background in construction & have renovated many rv’s
My husband and I have a 1988 Jamboree Rallye 3000 by Fleetwood. It’s on a Ford Econoline 350 club wagon XL. It has 86,401 km on the odometer. The motor works great however it has some water damage on the inside. We have had it for five or six years now, and have not used it much. My husband sealed the roof, but we have some window work and interior woodwork to fix. Trying to decide if it is worth fixing. Just discovered your channel and will be checking out your videos. This one on the window repair looks doable!
The thing with water damage is water runs down hill. So if the roof leaked really bad most likely there could be some damage in the walls and floor area’s. When we bought our Motorhome I first looked at new ones and also some newer used ones and in Ontario Canada the prices where a hundred and forty thousand for a new one and most of the used ones where at least $65,000 that where worth buying, the used ones had 150,000 miles on them. So if an older one is fixable and you where able to buy it for a reasonable amount it’s definitely worth fixing. I was able to buy ours for $20,000 with 17,000 miles on it and it was very well looked after and maintained. We spent $10,000 completely remodelling the inside, I completely resealed the roof and outside and updated the electronics adding solar panels, inverters etc. Just one word of advice if you start removing inside walls and such to repair be very slow and precise as these units aren’t built like a house and you can remove framing members that make it hard to rebuild and make it look good or as close to original as possible. Anyhow thanks for watching and good luck if you decide to fix the old girl up. Cheers Rob
@@WATCHLLS that is great advice. I believe the damage is from a window. We are on Prince Edward Island so your Canadian content is also appreciated. The materials you use should be available here. Thanks again.
@@DonnaBMacK Your welcome, we are planning a trip in the spring of 2024 to Newfoundland going through PEI, Nova Scotia etc. Cheers Rob
1)Did I miss where you trimmed the Butyl Tap off??? How to trim the tape , Please.
2)Please educate on which Pro Flex Clear caulking as there are 3 types that I saw on line....A)Acrylic B)Rubber or C) Silicone
Hello, after you place the window back in you take your drywall knife & cut the butyl excess that squeezes out off. You use the Acrylic pro flex.
Good stuff
How flexible is the pro flex? The roads these days here in MN are trash. Need some caulk that’ll be watertight and flexible.
Very flexible, you can actually press on it days after installation and it will compress.
@@WATCHLLS Sounds like it’s the best caulk to use?
Great video! Is there a specific butyl tape that should be used?
The tape comes in different colours, widths & thicknesses. 1/8 “ thick is good, I used Grey & found it best to purchase it from an RV dealer or repair shop. Some tape purchased from like Amazon is dry. Hope this helps. Rob
19:50 "And there's a lot of silicon on here and it is a bitch to get off" hahaha
For the prep and cleaning it seems you relied on your heat gun, metal scraper, Goo Gone, and Simple Green. And I noticed the comment about Brake Cleaner which sounds like a nice option with the absence of residue. Then, its double butyl tape at a 45 degree angle on the outer edge of window frame and tightening the window frame screws like lug nuts on a car’s wheel. Trim the excess. Then the masking, a bead of the Geocel flexible caulking, neatened up with a soapy watery finger. Finished! Huzzah!
Exelente video
Thanks :)
Exelente vide
Awesome video. Can I ask you what type of caulk would you recommend to seal windows on a painted aluminum trailer? Also,should I do the butyl tape like you did? Thanks in advance.
Today is the DAY. Applying the double layer of butyl tape today. Everythings super squeaky cleaned and wiped down with alcohol to be sure no residue of any kind remains. How did you remove the squeezed out excess butyl around the window once screwed back into place? I see you are preparing a tape form/frame around the outside window and the wiindow edge to protect it too to apply the caulking. I was wondering if you removed it with a knife like a razor box cutter or does it cut off with just a dull tool that cuts through it. Also can I do this after a couple of days or do I need to do it asap? I do not have quite as much butyl tape ooze out evenly around my window as you did. It's more uneven. My husband said three of our 17 screws that go around the window are stripped out and he'll fix those. I hope to get the bondo wood filler on the water damaged wall tomorrow so we can get that window on by end of week and before our next 90 degree plus temps roll in. Also we think we can get the window above sofa done tomorrow. It shows no sign of leaking but wouldn't be surprised if we did find it was starting. Goo Gone has been most helpful cleaning the windows and the RV window openings too. This is an R-Vision 22 year old Trail-lite 211Ford and from the best I can guess is it's past owners didn't take much interest in her more neglectful than abusive on one hand but their neglect really was a form of abuse we are discovering. Still I'm pretty sure she'll be a great RV with a lot of Vim and Vigor so to speak once we've got her repairs done and she's had inside and outside deep cleaning. I'm still working on completing her upholstery work. But want to wash the fabric ceiling and swap out the now failing ceiling buttons with new once I've got her washed. I could remove some inside cabinet pieces that are covered with the ceiling fabric and try three products to clean it with. I've narrowed it down to one. It doesn't look like anything will white or lighten up the failed adhesive and or yellowing foam that's showing through the white fabric. It looks like this yellowing that shows through randomly throughout the fabric giving it a dingy cast is age related. Cleaning it will help but won't improve this yellowing. It's clear this RV was never garaged or stored inside or even under a cover until I bought her. Thanks for your help and this video is by far my favorite on window repairs. PS I almost ruined my first window today. I pulled off the rubber down to one strip left across the top of the upper fixed window. That glazing just wasn't going to come out. I got a needle nose pliers and went at both ends of this stubborn piece. About this time I'm thinking this isn't just hardened and stuck in glazing maybe it's plastic. I'm then finding aluminum bits exposed and I'm thinking oh no it's plastic with an aluminum core....then I realize it's all aluminum painted black and looks identical to the rubber glazing I'd pulled out right up to it. ????? After calling my husband out to see what a mess I'd made of things we concluded the best action going forward would be to take the window fully apart and replace this metal with the new glazing after reassembling. NO, turns out we couldn't get it apart even after we'd removed all the screws holding it together. There were rivets too. So next idea was since we can't remove it to cut off the ends I damaged and bent out, the best next thing was to file the ends smooth as best we could and my husband then added black paint and you can see it if you look but you do have to know to look. He also had the strength to put the new glazing on too. I clearly did not have the strength in my size small female hands. We didn't want to warm the glazing rubber in hot lightly soapy water because we don't want to stretch it and see it shrink again. I did not use lock tite as some people do including our local window company who said they would reinstall our windows and do the glazing too if found the new glazing materials. Since then we decided we are doing a better job ourselves. Also had not discovered the damaged wall yet. Anyway one window in and two to go. So glad this is a SMALL RV. Thanks for this share on how to install an RV window so it won't leak. YES.
Great jobs guys!!. For removing the butyl tape that squeezes out I run a drywall knife around the window holding it on a bit of an angle inwards so the caulking will have some surface to adhere to as well under the window. As far as putting the screws back in you need to get them lined up with the holes on the window to prevent them from breaking, Sometimes even just using a screwdriver instead of a drill driver. I would love to see some pictures of the job if you can post Them, Cheers Rob
Great video! I have replaced 2 windows in my 2008 Thor Chateau Sport and really need to get after window over the cab. That area has been made into storage bins, which turned out great. Not certain yet if I will replace the window or do the same that you did. I also need to replace the running lights and now I can get up there. I'm very interested in the scaffolding you set up. You mention that you attached the smaller ladder to the wood that is leveling the rig. Would you have tied it the same as you did on the passenger side ladder, had it been taller? I have two ladders, like your, one tall and one small. What is the purpose of the board being held up by the support rods? It may be painfully obvious, just need some guidance. I really want to work on the front of the motor home and safety is a real concern of mine. Thank you!
Hello
Can’t sleep so 😊 I placed the ladders on both sides tied them to the mirrors with rope, I placed some screws through the plank into the ladders for some added support. Not good with heights & getting older so also need to ensure I don’t tumble 😊. The board was too lift the cab over main support rail. Sometimes condensation between the bunk cushions can cause the particle board to get wet & mushy so I supported while I put new bolts & washers. I now have spacers under the cushions to eliminate that issue. Hope this explains 😊 cheers Rob
I'm redoing my slide and found a window was leaking, so I took the window out and just caulked it but now that I see about the Butyl tape, I'm going to re-do the window with tape and then caulk it. Nice video. Assuming the butyl tape is pretty waterproof too correct?
Yes the butyl is but you want to make sure it’s covered with caulking.
Is there a reason you don't seal the inside window frame with butyl? And what do you call the pushy-twist-long expandable poles holding up the cabover?
Hi Sara, the inside of the window meets up with interior finishes and putting the butyl tape there would make it damage the interior finish plus if water did get behind the window from the outside you wouldn’t want to trap it between the window and the walls. Cheers Rob
@@WATCHLLS That makes sense-thanks for answering!
Nice video thank you I have to do that as well
This is my job this weekend. It seems we have a leak from the front window. Ty
Your welcome 🙏🏽 have fun
Thanks for this video! Did you use 1” wide butyl? Also did you remove the original rubber gasket they used before applying your butyl? Thanks.
Hello, yes I did remove the original rubber gasket. I can’t remember if I used 3/4 or 1” butyl, but it wouldn’t matter which one as they would both work. Best of luck with your RV Reno. :)
I was able to successfully follow all of this and got mine back in and tightly sealed. Unfortunately I still am finding water inside after testing a couple days later. Is there a chance it's coming from where the glass seals to window frame? If so is there a fix for that? Can I just silicone caulk that?
Great, have you also checked your clearance lights above. Yes you can use a clear silicone like gorilla to seal the window frame seal 😊
Yes. Those are all resealed. I'll try a bead around the window to frame
What did you dip your finger in when smoothening the sealant?
Dish soap
What do you call the expandable poles you're using to help create the scaffolding?
Hello, they are painters poles. www.lowes.ca/product/extension-poles/5-ft-3-in-10-ft-160-cm-305-cm-medium-quick-support-rod-335269?gbraid=0AAAAADiPpoIJ7-0FYMEdpjTGwSCYMm0c2&cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=19746291807&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&&cm_mmc=google-_-19746291807-_--_-&gbraid=0AAAAADiPpoIJ7-0FYMEdpjTGwSCYMm0c2&gclid=CjwKCAjw0N6hBhAUEiwAXab-TU0cEvhILbIPmGI879j8cMZS9JfBNvBlH3jYTSyTxzHd1R8kqtOYeBoC284QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Great video, what butyl tape did you use for this project?
Thanks, I used 1/4 thick by 3/4” wide tape (grey colour) don’t buy it from Amazon as the stuff they sell is dry. I bought mine from the local RV dealer. Cheers Rob
@@WATCHLLS Thanks Rob, Happy Camping
I finally cut my plexiglass to replace top window. . Temp fix but its black window
Specifically what kind of caulk are you using here? Brand and type?
Proflex clear rv caulking
Wondering, are there “weep holes” on bottom of window?
Yes there are, above the caulking on the operational windows but not the fixed windows.
Was curious it looks like you used 1" butyl tape? I have 3/4" on hand so wondered if you have a preferred brand. Your roll looked in great shape without dents and misshaped areas due to poor shipping. Just curious. I've got 3 windows to repair. Turns out while I've been searching for a repair shop including a professional Window installer who did repair a friends RV windows 2 years ago they wouldn't touch mine due to the hardened rubber glaze material I need to find first then they would. Also same story from a center calling themselves Everything RV which padded their bill to be more than 3X's what their labor was quoted to me in advance for work. So in the end dang I was worried about the condition of all 3 windows in my RV and sure enough today I am out ripping out old stained carpet under a bench seat to discover the vinyl wall laminate is spongy like just above it and down into it and low and behold the window has to be the culprit. I had removed the canvas cover we protected it with since we bought her in Feb this year in mid April and said we need to cover the windows with plastic until we can get them redone. Hubby was not as sure they were in need. Today as the saying goes..I told you so....is mute. I recall your DIY window video and sure enough found you right away. Our few rural local stores does not carry butyl tape so it's off to Amazon. I can buy Goo Gone Pro local. I'm putting plastic all around the windows today until I can gather all the products needed to do it right. The RV is pretty much mine. It turns out I paid too much though at the time I thought it was spot on. But below freezing hid the water tank spill over damage that had some mildew issues under one seat. I caught a whiff but everyone including husband and neighbor and her son with me buying it never smelled it...but sure enough oh yeah. Seller who was helpful until I told him I located the source and was working on fixing it he cut off from contact then. So he knew. I did take care of that problem and removed the carpet and scraped about 5 cups of wood shavings out of the bay where the water tank fits and sanitized the tank and replaced all hoses and sanitized all water lines too to insure all is good to go. And I went the extra mile and painted the entire box with anti-mold and mildew special paint but before that treated the entire area with Oxine, Odorban lemon and Lysol lemon. The oxine which has little to no scent was the best one of all. I applied a mixture for two days repeating 3 times a day and running fans 24 hours. And then wiped out and sprayed another 3 days with just oxine not activated. Actually no mildew was detected within the 2nd day of the mixtures. But it has a means of creeping back so another 4 days of full treatment I felt wouldn't hurt. Meantime oxine without dilution has a bit of a residue to it so I had to clean that out before 2 layers of the special paint. The plan today 2 weeks since the other work was complete and no mildew had returned I intended to water proof the entire bay compartment under and around the water tank with white tape the kind you use to water proof the edges of your RV roof seams. It has a buytl type of adhesive on the one side and water proof like duct tape on top. Overlapping 4" tape up the entire walls and floor of the bay. All this before I reinstall the tank and it's plumbing plus some electrical boxes that screw to the floor. I intend to add water proof sealing to the new screws too as all old ones removed had rusted badly. I had a bit of paint left over and decided today to remove the carpet from the other bay and spiff it up with the paint just on the partical wood flooring. That's when I discovered the delamination going on in the wall which clearly had not been there a few rain storms before. I did check several times after our first few spring storms and it was dry so I relaxed as hubby suggested. Hind sight is 20/20 as they say. I'm not sure how to poke holes in the vinyl to insure it dries out behind the laminate in the wall but I would rather have to relaminate with vinyl paper than to leave it damp to develop mold. I'll put a fan on it right away. I'm covering the windows with plastic and just cut thick sheet plastic to fit way beyond the windows. I have some removable glue that sticks well to plastic to help get a good seal around it and then will double tape with duct tape around to prevent moisture. I will remove the smaller kitchen window in advance today to get the right rubber gaskets ordered too. My windows need 3 different shapes. I found a company that carries a good supply of rubber shapes. Pelland Enterprises seems to have the best prices and the largest variety of shapes. Wish me luck. I think I understand how some people get over whelmed buying an older RV for the first ever RV they own. Yeah...I'm feeling it. I pride myself on being flexible and dang if I'll give up attitude too. Thank you for your Video so helpful. I was wondering how I could remove even the smaller window by myself. At 5' I'll of course need a solid step ladder but I have several. Your tape solution is spot on. Thank you thank you thank you for your posts.
Hello there, thank you for the message. I buy my butyl from an RV dealer as the stuff from Amazon is stiff & dry. You also need to keep it in a ziplock bag as over time it will dry out. If I couldn’t do my own repairs I couldn’t own an RV. These RV repair shops aren’t trades people, well pretty much every one I have meet. You really need to inspect every seem on the roof & around windows etc after each trip, these units basically are shifting & moving constantly well going down the road. Still have to finish reading your full comment as I am out in the driveway adding a second fresh water tank to Miss Molly (named after our late pup) I will answer any other questions when I’m done reading have fun and cheers
@@WATCHLLS Thank you for taking so much time to reply. I'm working on these today. I've discovered more things on this journey about my windows. They are Hehr 22 years old and have a white foam seal where the butyl tape will take it's place. This white rubber had a probable double stick super thin tape that over time failed and helped lead to the window failures. I' hoping the Butyl tape int 2 layers will be enough but wondering if I need 3 because the rubber foam gasket looks to be more than a 1/4 inch thick before compression. I'm so green at owning an RV I've made a few mistakes in products but overall I've got most right. Thank you for your insight and definitely your videos. Really the most helpful to date.
Are you doing 2 layers of butyl tape on the window? Like double-sided tape
Yes I did 2 layers so when the window was screwed back in it’s squeezes out and fills all the voids.
i called an Rv dealership , i'm in canada and told them i need to re-seal a window and what do i need to buy from them ? he said caulking ,brake cleaner and a scraper ? no mention of butyl tape ?
Interesting the brake cleaner, I know that brake cleaner basically removes dirt, crime etc without leaving a residue. Butyl tape is the main defence to keep the water out. If you just caulk around the window and there is a gap or a crack the butyl tape is there to keep the water out. My Motorhome windows had a really thin plastic rubber membrane instead of butyl tape. Lots of different ways to do things. Did the dealership elaborate on why no butyl tape?
Yeah i put my window in after guy cut corners wromg tried to caulk bunch to put first screw in ring on as i put on window to spider the window 95. $ window now trying to see if i can just replace top window with plexy glass im so stressed first window in my life
Take lots of pictures while you’re disassembling that you can look back on when you’re putting it back together. Yes to much caulking can be as bad as not enough. Thanks 🙏🏽 for watching.
So here we go
I think it's a little bit too much butyl tape. You're supposed to put the tape on the flat part only. There's no need to put it on the angle part. That's why your window won't fit back in
Googone rocks ..
Glad it’s working for you 😊👍
Winnebago just uses silicone on their motorhomes. What do you say to that? So many other groups just tell people to use silicone. Mineral spirits removes it pretty easy, although I use a plastic razor blade to scrape the rv. Amazon sells them, and they don't scratch the rv.
Yes, lots of RV manufacturing companies use silicone on the roofs that build them with fibreglass or aluminium. All I know is from past experience removing silicone is very difficult and can cause damage to the rv trying to scrape it off. Products like Proflex can be pulled off in almost one piece and don’t dry out and crack like silicone. Thanks for watching. Cheers Rob
Why didn't you do something to make it openable ? Wind is good for ventilation
We have the windows on both sides. Nice breeze from them 😊
@@WATCHLLS well I'm doing that to mine so I was hoping for a video on how to do it 🤣
Always looking for your RV repair and restoration comments, lets talk RV
That'll be a nightmare ever to have to take it out again because you've got tape all the way in where your putty knife or your razor blade won't get to and it's impossible to get it back out
@@guttermastersplus5613 Shouldn’t have to ever take it out again. Plus I am too old to worry about it. :)
Can I use eternabond tape ?
Hello
How would you like to use it?
Pounding on the frame with your fist is not a good idea. Glass does not bend at all. You're better off starting all of the screws from the inside. Slowly start snugging the screws down evenly. Minimize the stress on the glass by following a pattern, similar to remounting head bolts or an oil pan on a car engine. This process will take several cycles before they start to get snug. Don't get crazy with over tightening the screws.
Thanks for the suggestions, much appreciated!
All was well till you brought in music!
Way too much tape and if you use a heat gun your butyl will be a lot easier and a lot softer and won't go in there a lot easier
Great suggestions, thanks!