The information is good, the metal corrugated roofs are really popular in OZ & NZ , I think when you see a lot of houses with it on it looks great , I remember speaking to a roofer in NZ who told how good it is and simple it is to install. It made me wonder why do we bother with tiles, our planned house build will def be using a similar method.
Tim thanks for giving a great explanation on your reasoning for choosing this type of roof, and going through they way things will be, keep the videos coming 👍
I’ve used this system on all my outbuildings, even used the pre curved sheets to make a Shepard’s hut type shed for my rude on. One thing up to mention, I had one of the roofs fail, the covering came clean off, but fair play to Accord (I assume that’s who you used?); they identified it as a failure of the mill to apply the primer to the steel roll, apparently is not unusual for them to forget!. Accord replaced the sheets FOC even after 5 years or so. 0.7mm plastisol sheets.
Going to look good mate 👍 me pers3i would use the same stuff you used for the roof to clad the outside of the Building 👍 looking forward to seeing the finished product 😀
You can get vented fillers for under the ridges if you were concerned about birds/insects. Obviously they restrict airflow but should still be breathable
Having lived in tin roofed houses for the last 40+ years from a 1901 bungalow up to a house built in the last 15 years, the sound of rain is really restful. Most of the living space, and some sleeping space, has been like your living area and not having a loft space and certainly a good deal less insulation. You and your family will get used to the sound, even if you find it an intrusion initially.
Yes we agree. We are currently living in a bungalow with a conservatory so have got use to that sound. Viewing it as a comfort rather than an annoyance.
Great video, good to hear the thought process as well. A couple points. Are you going to bend up the troughs of the roofing sheets at the apex to stop wind blown water from getting in at the apex under the capping piece? Second point. With a wood heater at one end, I would think about an air transfer system from the living area to the other end of the build in the space through the trusses. Just to move some warm air down to the other end of the build. I expect that your supply of timber will be cheaper than the electricity... :) Always plenty of options...
We have infill profiles to seal. between ridge trim and sheets so that will seal that bit off. Yes, we have. allowed for a low energy fan to sit above door between living area and. bedroom hall so we could add if needed in the future. Would have been a bit over the top to duct vents to each room but should help even it out.
We've got electric underfloor heating in our dining room, laid on chipboard 'floorboards', with the thin insulation over the top and then the laminate/click flooring. It is very toasty warm and very effective - we've been running the underfloor heating for ~4 hours a day (we're on solar panels too) and it's been great at warming the whole kitchen/dining area and also the rooms above (probably shows we need more insulation). So, I would thoroughly recommend it and will definitely add it again in future houses
This is a question somewhat out of left field and not really on topic. I've noticed that your dog, like a typical puppy and farm dog, I suppose, if often quite wet and muddy (11:02). How do you deal with that? Is she now an outdoor dog? Or does she get bathed daily (I can't imagine you go for that extra work)? How do you handle the mud and the wet and the wet-dog-smell?
Thank you for all the info. Could I ask was there a reason you didn't counter batten in line with rafter then across that on top purlin style. This allows space for any drips to run down the membrane and not catch on the battens, but maybe that is overkill. Loving the build. Thanks
It would be better to counter batten as you describe in the same way as it would on the walls but it just seemed like more timber and weight, plus hopefully no drips anyway! 😬
I put underfloor foil heating in a 15sqm cabin. To warm the room on a cold day takes 3-4hrs realistically and it soon racks up the bill. Underfoot comfort less than that but all said and done can get the same effect from an hours heat off a 2kw heater. Rarely use it any more unfortunately but that’s from a cost perspective - if that’s not an issue it’s a nice luxury to have
Underfloor heating provides comfort even at lower temperatures. At this stage of your build the cost of installing underfloor is not expensive. You have the choice to add spurs so that you can add wall mounted heaters at a later date. This is the ideal opportunity to experiment.
Hi Tim and Jo, been learning from you for years now. Concerning metal roofs and cold bridging, did you get any condensation in the "old" workshop using the metal insulated panels? I would have thought the area at the eaves on the inside was a potential vulnerable point.
No done at all. The walls were insulated too and therefor insulation continues up and over. Of course less moisture produced in a workshop than a house.
We have electric ufh in a chalet in Wales with Amtico on top. Both the ufh company and Amtico insisted upon either a thick screed, or what we went for a special wood 'dual overlay'. It adds a lot to the cost along with hassle but worth it for us not eating wall space with radiators. It is very expensive to run though. Another thing we see is it can be a struggle to get up to target temperature as the max floor temperature kicks in before the room warms up - you need to leave it on all the time rather than odd bursts throughout the day.
My brother looked to get electric underfloor heating in one of the bedrooms in his house but found it very difficult to get a sparky to install it. Not sure of the reasons why, but there was a lot of reluctance from the tradespeople. If you do install it, I'd very much look forward to seeing the video and to hear your thoughts about the systems available and how well they work.
Hi Tim been following your channel for many years now. …. Question have hard do you expect it to be to move the cabin when you and all the issues you had in first place when clear trying to level it you …. How you expect to manage with now a house on it to level the chassis up to re align it all again !!!
We would probably use a specialist company to move it when we sell. For now it will likely stay where it is so a. few minor tweaks needed but nothing major,.
These were from Rhino roofing however I got the impression they use another supplier for this profile. We have used others in the past and all have been fine, often over promising lead times but the actual steel and finish is most likely sourced from the same place wherever you buy from.
Hey Love all your videos been a sub for a very long time. I am currently rewatching but have a question. In terms of this video did you include a vapor barrier internally on the OSB walls or did you just screw plasterboard to the OSB? As I like the idea of the wood fibre boards
Maybe it’s because we don’t usually (right now is a climate change exception!) get much rain, we love the sound of rain on the corrugated tin roof. Probably not great to do a RUclips vid, but very reassuring in times of drought. P.S. We fitted underfloor heating in the bathroom around 8 years ago and found the electricity bills went through the roof. Tech may have changed since of course.
Yes we agree. We are currently living in a bungalow with a conservatory so have got use to that sound. Viewing it as a comfort rather than an annoyance. Hard to know about prices at the moment as everything seems ridiculous.
Great information and once again well reasoned advice. Some thoughts on UFH, I would query it’s ability to get up to temperature quickly enough for you from cold when it’s needed, plus it’s generally quite expensive to run as often it needs to be kept on to keep the temperature up. If you find an answer to this I would love to hear how it might work. On the plus side with no need for radiators it can free up wall space for you. I know infra red has been considered in at least one format as you have mentioned earlier but it could work as a supplement for UFH enabling it to run at a lower cost, especially if you are considering solar power at a later stage. 😎👍
I think it will be less of an issue once the wood burner is in, we would then just use UFH for the wake up heating in the morning. Wall space is definitely a consideration. 👍
I’ve got a question about a previous video, the one where your using the kingspan insulated panels, could you give me a rough cost of what you paid as it’s something I’m looking to get ?
My son lives near Melbourne, Australia and his house is built with a corrugated, plastisol coated roof. This is a common choice there and seen as nothing unusual.
Because the house is being built in two halves that require the ability to separate, you've taken great care in abutting the walls and the floors and the ceiling and the roof. But doesn't that still leave enough room for the elements to eventually make their way down between the buildings? Or, is there a plan for when the chassises are in their "permanent" location to put some kind of Ridge Cap?
Figure out how much heat you'll need first, then get the right sized radiators for the living room. Electric underfloor will be a liability if you decide to rent the place out in the future. By far the most sensible solution would be air con, which will provide five times the heat for the same amount of electricity.
1 question Tim,,it might b stupid from a driver not a roofer- because its metal would you not have white to reflect the heat just like houses in Spain ?
It would help in Summer, that said it would also probably blind people passing by! 😂 With insulation and air voids under I hope it won't get too toasty.
@@TheRestorationCouple With the air flow that you will have under the tin, I cant see you having a problem with heat. Its much like a felt roof, it has a gap under it to prevent heat/moisture build up. Thanks for the chat at the end, it allows us to see the possibilities that are around and the stuff that you considered but decided not to use (and the reason why). Thanks for posting
I may have missed it in an earlier video, but why are you building it in two sections and moving it. Why not build it in its final position, which will be where?
I wouldn't think with a log burner and electric rads you would need underfloor heating. The built in underlay on the lvt stops the floor being really cold. Our underfloor heating was a waste of money 💰
Appreciate the time you spend explaining what you are doing. This is why i watch, the animals and family are a bonus!
Yes, Tim is a really good teacher, that way.
The information is good, the metal corrugated roofs are really popular in OZ & NZ , I think when you see a lot of houses with it on it looks great , I remember speaking to a roofer in NZ who told how good it is and simple it is to install. It made me wonder why do we bother with tiles, our planned house build will def be using a similar method.
Tim thanks for giving a great explanation on your reasoning for choosing this type of roof, and going through they way things will be, keep the videos coming 👍
Great video Tim - good to get the in-depth info… keep up the good work 👍
I love the learning you pass on in your videos. Thank guys, always very relavent!
Thank you!
I’ve used this system on all my outbuildings, even used the pre curved sheets to make a Shepard’s hut type shed for my rude on. One thing up to mention, I had one of the roofs fail, the covering came clean off, but fair play to Accord (I assume that’s who you used?); they identified it as a failure of the mill to apply the primer to the steel roll, apparently is not unusual for them to forget!. Accord replaced the sheets FOC even after 5 years or so. 0.7mm plastisol sheets.
Going to look good mate 👍 me pers3i would use the same stuff you used for the roof to clad the outside of the Building 👍 looking forward to seeing the finished product 😀
Yes! Definitely thank you for sharing your thoughts on different materials, the pros and cons and how you choose on top of how you built :-)
You can get vented fillers for under the ridges if you were concerned about birds/insects. Obviously they restrict airflow but should still be breathable
Roof looks great
Underfloor heating is brilliant we have it in every room in our chalet home. Very economical too. 100% recommend it
Love the info, thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Having lived in tin roofed houses for the last 40+ years from a 1901 bungalow up to a house built in the last 15 years, the sound of rain is really restful. Most of the living space, and some sleeping space, has been like your living area and not having a loft space and certainly a good deal less insulation. You and your family will get used to the sound, even if you find it an intrusion initially.
Yes we agree. We are currently living in a bungalow with a conservatory so have got use to that sound. Viewing it as a comfort rather than an annoyance.
So restful.
Thanks for the brief at the end.
Not seen it noted yet but appreciate the opening credits roof flyover in a wee nod to the old house 😊
Ah yes, thankfully quicker than slate! 👍
Great video, good to hear the thought process as well.
A couple points. Are you going to bend up the troughs of the roofing sheets at the apex to stop wind blown water from getting in at the apex under the capping piece?
Second point. With a wood heater at one end, I would think about an air transfer system from the living area to the other end of the build in the space through the trusses. Just to move some warm air down to the other end of the build. I expect that your supply of timber will be cheaper than the electricity... :)
Always plenty of options...
We have infill profiles to seal. between ridge trim and sheets so that will seal that bit off.
Yes, we have. allowed for a low energy fan to sit above door between living area and. bedroom hall so we could add if needed in the future. Would have been a bit over the top to duct vents to each room but should help even it out.
We've got electric underfloor heating in our dining room, laid on chipboard 'floorboards', with the thin insulation over the top and then the laminate/click flooring. It is very toasty warm and very effective - we've been running the underfloor heating for ~4 hours a day (we're on solar panels too) and it's been great at warming the whole kitchen/dining area and also the rooms above (probably shows we need more insulation).
So, I would thoroughly recommend it and will definitely add it again in future houses
Good to know. Any noise from the foil matting as you walk over it? That was my only remaining concern but think we will go for it.
I’ve not heard any noises from it, no
You will get there 👍
This is a question somewhat out of left field and not really on topic. I've noticed that your dog, like a typical puppy and farm dog, I suppose, if often quite wet and muddy (11:02). How do you deal with that? Is she now an outdoor dog? Or does she get bathed daily (I can't imagine you go for that extra work)? How do you handle the mud and the wet and the wet-dog-smell?
What smart radiators are you using? Can they be linked together? Could you post a link of what ones you’ve decided on
Very smart. I was going to say perfect angle for a solar installation. Doh! You have plenty of ground space for a solar installation elsewhere.
Thank you for all the info. Could I ask was there a reason you didn't counter batten in line with rafter then across that on top purlin style. This allows space for any drips to run down the membrane and not catch on the battens, but maybe that is overkill. Loving the build. Thanks
It would be better to counter batten as you describe in the same way as it would on the walls but it just seemed like more timber and weight, plus hopefully no drips anyway! 😬
I put underfloor foil heating in a 15sqm cabin. To warm the room on a cold day takes 3-4hrs realistically and it soon racks up the bill. Underfoot comfort less than that but all said and done can get the same effect from an hours heat off a 2kw heater. Rarely use it any more unfortunately but that’s from a cost perspective - if that’s not an issue it’s a nice luxury to have
Very informative as normal 👏
Underfloor heating provides comfort even at lower temperatures. At this stage of your build the cost of installing underfloor is not expensive. You have the choice to add spurs so that you can add wall mounted heaters at a later date. This is the ideal opportunity to experiment.
Hi Tim and Jo, been learning from you for years now. Concerning metal roofs and cold bridging, did you get any condensation in the "old" workshop using the metal insulated panels? I would have thought the area at the eaves on the inside was a potential vulnerable point.
No done at all. The walls were insulated too and therefor insulation continues up and over. Of course less moisture produced in a workshop than a house.
Love in this build
Thank you Jo. We are enjoying it too. Feels a bit never ending at the moment.
We have electric ufh in a chalet in Wales with Amtico on top. Both the ufh company and Amtico insisted upon either a thick screed, or what we went for a special wood 'dual overlay'. It adds a lot to the cost along with hassle but worth it for us not eating wall space with radiators. It is very expensive to run though. Another thing we see is it can be a struggle to get up to target temperature as the max floor temperature kicks in before the room warms up - you need to leave it on all the time rather than odd bursts throughout the day.
What are you using as an eave filler (the gap between top of fascia to sheet?
We will need to retrofit an eaves comb type filler I think as we need to leave it well vented so can't use the foam inserts.
have you considered using a mini-split heating and cooling system for the kitchen and living room area.
We have looked at them but it would be nice to have something more discreet! Not ruled it out though.
Have you considerd usimg infrared heating?
Yes that was the original plan but the system we were planning on using needed a full skim as it was embedded in the ceiling plaster.
My brother looked to get electric underfloor heating in one of the bedrooms in his house but found it very difficult to get a sparky to install it. Not sure of the reasons why, but there was a lot of reluctance from the tradespeople. If you do install it, I'd very much look forward to seeing the video and to hear your thoughts about the systems available and how well they work.
It’s good to have the cabin to test out products like this before we do it on the big house. 😉
I've found a lot of tradespeople are comfortable with the way they've done things for ever. Building science moves slow.
Hi Tim been following your channel for many years now. …. Question have hard do you expect it to be to move the cabin when you and all the issues you had in first place when clear trying to level it you …. How you expect to manage with now a house on it to level the chassis up to re align it all again !!!
We would probably use a specialist company to move it when we sell. For now it will likely stay where it is so a. few minor tweaks needed but nothing major,.
@@TheRestorationCouple thought you planned to move to another location on farm mate ...keep up great content
Hi Tim, would it be possible to tell us where you got the roofing sheets from please?
These were from Rhino roofing however I got the impression they use another supplier for this profile. We have used others in the past and all have been fine, often over promising lead times but the actual steel and finish is most likely sourced from the same place wherever you buy from.
@@TheRestorationCouple In Devon we use Cladco.
Hey Love all your videos been a sub for a very long time. I am currently rewatching but have a question. In terms of this video did you include a vapor barrier internally on the OSB walls or did you just screw plasterboard to the OSB? As I like the idea of the wood fibre boards
No vapour barrier on the breathable walls just for the ceilings. OSB then battens then PB . Going same route with the new house build.
Maybe it’s because we don’t usually (right now is a climate change exception!) get much rain, we love the sound of rain on the corrugated tin roof. Probably not great to do a RUclips vid, but very reassuring in times of drought. P.S. We fitted underfloor heating in the bathroom around 8 years ago and found the electricity bills went through the roof. Tech may have changed since of course.
Yes we agree. We are currently living in a bungalow with a conservatory so have got use to that sound. Viewing it as a comfort rather than an annoyance. Hard to know about prices at the moment as everything seems ridiculous.
It's like raptor liner. Pickup bed liner sorta finish.
Great information and once again well reasoned advice. Some thoughts on UFH, I would query it’s ability to get up to temperature quickly enough for you from cold when it’s needed, plus it’s generally quite expensive to run as often it needs to be kept on to keep the temperature up. If you find an answer to this I would love to hear how it might work. On the plus side with no need for radiators it can free up wall space for you. I know infra red has been considered in at least one format as you have mentioned earlier but it could work as a supplement for UFH enabling it to run at a lower cost, especially if you are considering solar power at a later stage. 😎👍
I think it will be less of an issue once the wood burner is in, we would then just use UFH for the wake up heating in the morning. Wall space is definitely a consideration. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple plus some circulation of heat from the wood burner through to the bedrooms perhaps 🤔👍
Please forgive me if you've already covered it and I've missed it. Since the building sections can be separated, how will you weather-proof the ridge?
A 400mm ridge trim spans join and is screwed to both sides. This would be removed prior to splitting. .
I’ve got a question about a previous video, the one where your using the kingspan insulated panels, could you give me a rough cost of what you paid as it’s something I’m looking to get ?
£20 m2 if you shop around, or at least it was at the time.
Could I ask if possible a link to the company that supplied the roofing please.
This lot was Rhino roofing, Birmingham way I think.
@@TheRestorationCouple thank you for that 😊
My son lives near Melbourne, Australia and his house is built with a corrugated, plastisol coated roof. This is a common choice there and seen as nothing unusual.
Because the house is being built in two halves that require the ability to separate, you've taken great care in abutting the walls and the floors and the ceiling and the roof. But doesn't that still leave enough room for the elements to eventually make their way down between the buildings? Or, is there a plan for when the chassises are in their "permanent" location to put some kind of Ridge Cap?
Did you think about ashphalt shingles, the kind they use in Canada and the states?.
Briefly, but by the time you sheath the roof out first its heavier and a longer install.
Figure out how much heat you'll need first, then get the right sized radiators for the living room. Electric underfloor will be a liability if you decide to rent the place out in the future. By far the most sensible solution would be air con, which will provide five times the heat for the same amount of electricity.
Why such a shallow pitch?
Fairly standard for a mobile home. It could go higher as limit is internal height however it does still need to be road legal on a lorry.
@@TheRestorationCouple So you intend to move it over the roadway?
@@donscotuslives Yes they plan to sell it after they have built their forever home.
Have you considered air to air heat pump for the heating? Aka an air conditioner.
Stupid efficient and not too expensive to buy.
1 question Tim,,it might b stupid from a driver not a roofer- because its metal would you not have white to reflect the heat just like houses in Spain ?
With all the insulation in the ceiling, I wouldnt have thought the heat would get through.
It would help in Summer, that said it would also probably blind people passing by! 😂 With insulation and air voids under I hope it won't get too toasty.
@@TheRestorationCouple With the air flow that you will have under the tin, I cant see you having a problem with heat. Its much like a felt roof, it has a gap under it to prevent heat/moisture build up. Thanks for the chat at the end, it allows us to see the possibilities that are around and the stuff that you considered but decided not to use (and the reason why). Thanks for posting
I may have missed it in an earlier video, but why are you building it in two sections and moving it. Why not build it in its final position, which will be where?
It's build where it is for convenience. It has to be movable to avoid needing planning permission.
What All the Gear said. 👍 also it’s on hand standing so no worry of it sinking on the field.
Should really bend each flute up at the ridgeline to prevent water ingress
I wouldn't think with a log burner and electric rads you would need underfloor heating. The built in underlay on the lvt stops the floor being really cold. Our underfloor heating was a waste of money 💰
have you allowed for cat cable runs I dont remember you mentioning it before
I put a dab of silicone under the caps, PITA but stay the course.
Good shout. Think I will do this when I get a chance to go back up.
Screws you used what you had, or not exist matching colour ?🤔
Colour matched caps to fit still
I don’t think you will need electric UFH. With a wood burner on you won’t need anything else with the insulation you have.
plumbing for a fridge freezer :/
Wood burners: Polluting, dirty, smelly, unhealthy. Radiators: Inefficient, expensive, and slow to heat a room. Why not put in a heat pump?