Please don't ever stop making videos! You explain things in ways that even dummies like me can pick up, understand, and put into practice. I thank you for that.
This was very helpful, thanks. I'd love to see a video on using Lightburn's "step-down" mode, i.e., when cutting acrylic. I'm having a hard time getting it to work.
Great video and very informative. Actually the only and best one I’ve seen on this topic. I’ve been trying to understand the grayscale mode for quite some time. In your video you stated you tried it with your fiber laser, I’ve been trying to get good images on my fiber laser and just can’t. Any suggestions ? Image processing etc.
Absolutely fantastic video…. I can’t wait to use this new knowledge I have of light burn… I had been wondering how people were creating a translucent effect when engraving their mirrors etc… Having literally just started engraving for the first time yesterday my mirrors have all done at the same power basically creating an outline
Thank you for that.... I wish it touched on fiber more, Having a time getting get good contrast or detail on stainless steel with my 60w MOPA. Your power explanation changed how i was thinking about it, Going to experiment now.
I’m running a vector logo with grey, black, and white. I couldn’t figure out why it’s all grey. I will run a couple samples to see if this helps. Thanks for the video.
I would of liked to have seen the process for getting the depth in wood. In your video toward the end you showed like ghosted images like depth maps for using with greyscale mode, how do you make that ghosted imaged/depth map type image?
What I like to do is run a small section of the image, maybe 2" x 2", without doing any edits to see what Im working with. Grayscale mode results can vary wildly based on the material. Once I gauge what it looks like I start tweaking from there. Adding contrast is usually preferable. If its too dark or too light I mess with the gamma correction first. That usually helps out the most in those instances!
Have you had an opportunity since this was published to try a 40w diode laser for depth engraving using grayscale? I've got a 40w s1 on order, and I'd like to give it a shot. Just wondering how much I should tamp down my expectations after watching your video.
The theme of the video is fantastic and mode of explanation is phenomenal. Congratulations. But my english is not the best ( my fault) so, do you advise not to use 0% as min power? To engrave on canvas to do the "material test" of the lightburn is enough to find fine settings or do you advise engrave a section of the photo? I think this is a more realistic method although it forces a test for each job. Thank you in advance.
100% would most likely be overkill for the speed Im running the project. For some stuff, especially photo engraving, slower speed and lower power works better.
I'm still very new to this. I have a diode and a fiber laser. I'm wondering if it's possible to do a grayscale (or dithered) image on something like a chrome, or polished brass zippo with the fiber laser.
Ive been trying to learn that practice on and off for a few months and havent come across anything I really like yet. Every tutorial suggests a completely different software and process.
If you processed in IMAGR first you will never use Grayscale since it has already been dithered. I usually start with Jarvis or Stucki since they are the best in my opinion. From there you have to run tests to see what you like.
Great explanation, i noticed at the end of the video, you Said some modules are compatible some arent. When i try to use grayscale my laser doesnt engrave at a continues speed, it slows down in some áreas and it speeds up on other, is that the compatibility issues you are talking about? If not is there a workaround for this issue? I would like to engrave at a contínuos speed like i do in other engraving options (dithering) using grayscale. I use lightburn latest version with LaserPecker lx1 with the 10w module. Thanks in advance
I did something goofy the other day. I have some pretty good image settings using Jarvis and Stucki. Works great. Yet, in videos I always see people say Jarvis or Stucki. For grins, I did an image with one pass at about half power with Jarvis followed by a second pass with half power using Stucki. It had to be just about the best image burn I've ever made. I'm going to toy around more with it, but it was seriously way better than before and it was good before! Something to think about.
I am very new to photo engraving but not new to laser engraving. Please help clarify this statement. (Anyone here can) The Anodized Grayscale images were done on your diode or fiber laser and not CO2? If so, that’s because CO2 can not reproduce a grayscale image like that, it has to be dithered? I have a 100w CO2 and I believe I have to use a dithered image? Thank you and Happy Holidays. ✌🏼🎄
I have a 30W cloudray QS fiber and I can’t for the life of me get grayscale mode to work. Anybody have any general settings they can share to get the images to look like this in the video? the information in the video is good but even taking THAT into account, my aluminum cards still don’t come out good at all. My laser ends up taking most of the black off the cards and leave like a faint shadow of the image itself. Any help would be appreciated. My brain is going to explode from all my attempts and I’m tired of wasting material lol.
@@EvilErnie999 getting the same results even at 1% max power, maybe it has something to do with dot timing but i dont have lightburn, my chinese fibre laser can only use ezcad
@@EvilErnie999what dpi are you running and what is the dot width of your laser? when it comes to grayscale images you should start with a low dpi and make your way up. also power as well as frequency is crucial. for anodized cards you could start at around 250 dpi and run a power scale test, from that you can get the min and max power (min should be barely visible or not at all and max should be very visible but close to the "grays" you want) once you find min and max power along with speed you gradually increase dpi untill there is a very thin space between the engrave lines. from my experience, i get better results when going lower than the recommended dpi, this helps preserve image color and contrast. hope this helps! (btw i have no experience with fiber lasers, but from what i have heard, laser frequency is material dependent)
i have a TTS pro 20w i am trying to take a photo and laser engrave it on a metal wallet. for some reason it wont engrave or just burns the whole metal wallet. IF you can help me with maybe changing photo or getting it to the point of burning it in lightburn and the setting, I would pay. happily
@@justinlaser ya i can , But The image is duplicating in some parts of the adonized business card, and I don't know if it's due to the speed, power, or scanning angle , thanks
Please don't ever stop making videos! You explain things in ways that even dummies like me can pick up, understand, and put into practice. I thank you for that.
You knocked it out of the park with this explanation. Appreciate you.
Appreciate it! Thank you.
I constantly learn new things on these machines thanks to videos like this. Awesome job!!
This is an awesome explanation! I have been struggling to comprehend this stuff. Keep bringin' it on J!!
Thanks for this video...first one I've seen on this topic and very well done.
Thank you appreciate it!
Omg I m amazed by the explanation... Great Work...
This will help me quit my dithering and get to it.
Excellent tutorial and clearly explained !
This was very helpful, thanks. I'd love to see a video on using Lightburn's "step-down" mode, i.e., when cutting acrylic. I'm having a hard time getting it to work.
Great video. Very Helpful. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Great video and very informative. Actually the only and best one I’ve seen on this topic. I’ve been trying to understand the grayscale mode for quite some time. In your video you stated you tried it with your fiber laser, I’ve been trying to get good images on my fiber laser and just can’t. Any suggestions ? Image processing etc.
Absolutely fantastic video…. I can’t wait to use this new knowledge I have of light burn… I had been wondering how people were creating a translucent effect when engraving their mirrors etc… Having literally just started engraving for the first time yesterday my mirrors have all done at the same power basically creating an outline
Thank you for that.... I wish it touched on fiber more, Having a time getting get good contrast or detail on stainless steel with my 60w MOPA. Your power explanation changed how i was thinking about it, Going to experiment now.
Hope you will make a video in detail for CO2 specifically engraving an image detailing its settings using Lightburn 🙏🏼
Yes I can do that.
Thank you for this video I have been told to use gray scale for my images and it just burns the wood with no detail this explains a lot
Thanks for watching hope it helps get that resolved!
Thank you , this is so helpful
Great explanations! Thank you.
I’m running a vector logo with grey, black, and white. I couldn’t figure out why it’s all grey. I will run a couple samples to see if this helps. Thanks for the video.
I would of liked to have seen the process for getting the depth in wood. In your video toward the end you showed like ghosted images like depth maps for using with greyscale mode, how do you make that ghosted imaged/depth map type image?
Awesome video. When adjusting in Lightburn (In Grayscale), would you suggest to make Contrast less and White more? Or other? thanks.
What I like to do is run a small section of the image, maybe 2" x 2", without doing any edits to see what Im working with. Grayscale mode results can vary wildly based on the material. Once I gauge what it looks like I start tweaking from there. Adding contrast is usually preferable. If its too dark or too light I mess with the gamma correction first. That usually helps out the most in those instances!
Have you had an opportunity since this was published to try a 40w diode laser for depth engraving using grayscale? I've got a 40w s1 on order, and I'd like to give it a shot. Just wondering how much I should tamp down my expectations after watching your video.
Hello Justin,
do you recommend the settings used at 3:02 for getting sharp results for that specific picture or are those just place-holder numbers?
Thank you. Wonder why i would then use a mode other than grayscale? If grayscale gives best result.
The theme of the video is fantastic and mode of explanation is phenomenal. Congratulations.
But my english is not the best ( my fault) so, do you advise not to use 0% as min power?
To engrave on canvas to do the "material test" of the lightburn is enough to find fine settings or do you advise engrave a section of the photo? I think this is a more realistic method although it forces a test for each job.
Thank you in advance.
Thank you for the video, I am confused about one thing. Why do you set max power to 50% and not 100% or 80%.. Thank you again
100% would most likely be overkill for the speed Im running the project. For some stuff, especially photo engraving, slower speed and lower power works better.
Perfect😮
I'm still very new to this. I have a diode and a fiber laser. I'm wondering if it's possible to do a grayscale (or dithered) image on something like a chrome, or polished brass zippo with the fiber laser.
Hay awesome thanks. But I have a question if I use a diode laser Using gray scale, could I engraved multiple times to get a 3-D effect or depth?
Thank you
Great vid. Hopefully, I can get similar results from my 10W UV. What have you found that works the best in turning a picture into a height map?
Ive been trying to learn that practice on and off for a few months and havent come across anything I really like yet. Every tutorial suggests a completely different software and process.
If importing an image to engrave tile processed by imagr do you choose grayscale? How do you know what settings to use?
If you processed in IMAGR first you will never use Grayscale since it has already been dithered. I usually start with Jarvis or Stucki since they are the best in my opinion. From there you have to run tests to see what you like.
great video !!
Great video
Great explanation, i noticed at the end of the video, you Said some modules are compatible some arent. When i try to use grayscale my laser doesnt engrave at a continues speed, it slows down in some áreas and it speeds up on other, is that the compatibility issues you are talking about? If not is there a workaround for this issue? I would like to engrave at a contínuos speed like i do in other engraving options (dithering) using grayscale.
I use lightburn latest version with LaserPecker lx1 with the 10w module. Thanks in advance
Is the principle the same if I’m using a 30w fiber laser? I’m wanting to place a photo image on a Black medal tumbler. Thank you
I did something goofy the other day. I have some pretty good image settings using Jarvis and Stucki. Works great. Yet, in videos I always see people say Jarvis or Stucki. For grins, I did an image with one pass at about half power with Jarvis followed by a second pass with half power using Stucki. It had to be just about the best image burn I've ever made. I'm going to toy around more with it, but it was seriously way better than before and it was good before! Something to think about.
Do you have a specific wood type for doing a 3D engraving with a Co2 laser? Mine is a 80 watt. I’ve heard Alder and Cedar are great types.
Would a Fiber Mopa 80watt cut 3d in metal with depth mapped images in greyscale?
Yes! The image mode is called "3D Sliced" when you use fiber laser in Lightburn. The settings look a little different but its the same idea.
Very cool man !!! First video earned a sub too can’t wait to check out the channel
Could you make a video on how to make depth map images out of 2D AI created images?
Man Im still figuring that out myself. Keep running into dead ends with the available apps and need to learn more 3D skills.
I am very new to photo engraving but not new to laser engraving. Please help clarify this statement. (Anyone here can) The Anodized Grayscale images were done on your diode or fiber laser and not CO2? If so, that’s because CO2 can not reproduce a grayscale image like that, it has to be dithered?
I have a 100w CO2 and I believe I have to use a dithered image?
Thank you and Happy Holidays. ✌🏼🎄
I have a 30W cloudray QS fiber and I can’t for the life of me get grayscale mode to work. Anybody have any general settings they can share to get the images to look like this in the video? the information in the video is good but even taking THAT into account, my aluminum cards still don’t come out good at all. My laser ends up taking most of the black off the cards and leave like a faint shadow of the image itself. Any help would be appreciated. My brain is going to explode from all my attempts and I’m tired of wasting material lol.
I'm in the exact same situation lol, mostly get white boxes where you have too look very closely to see an incredibly faint image 😂
@@Driftyui yeah it’s like mine has no concept of any gray colors and just takes it all away.
@@EvilErnie999 getting the same results even at 1% max power, maybe it has something to do with dot timing but i dont have lightburn, my chinese fibre laser can only use ezcad
@@EvilErnie999what dpi are you running and what is the dot width of your laser?
when it comes to grayscale images you should start with a low dpi and make your way up.
also power as well as frequency is crucial.
for anodized cards you could start at around 250 dpi and run a power scale test, from that you can get the min and max power (min should be barely visible or not at all and max should be very visible but close to the "grays" you want) once you find min and max power along with speed you gradually increase dpi untill there is a very thin space between the engrave lines.
from my experience, i get better results when going lower than the recommended dpi, this helps preserve image color and contrast.
hope this helps!
(btw i have no experience with fiber lasers, but from what i have heard, laser frequency is material dependent)
i have a TTS pro 20w i am trying to take a photo and laser engrave it on a metal wallet. for some reason it wont engrave or just burns the whole metal wallet. IF you can help me with maybe changing photo or getting it to the point of burning it in lightburn and the setting, I would pay. happily
I know what it said, but I use my diode for variable depth all the time. It isn't fast, but it works fine.
Do you use the 40W? I have a 40W S1 xtool and will be attempting my first 3d illusion engraving.
Can I do it that on atomstack x20 pro
Yes if you can use Lightburn
@@justinlaser ya i can ,
But The image is duplicating in some parts of the adonized business card, and I don't know if it's due to the speed, power, or scanning angle , thanks
@@justinlaser
Or horizontal lines appear along the image.