**Update** I refer to the “pinion angle” a lot in this video, but I miss-used that term. “Pinion Angle” is the angle of the differential to 0° - what I kept calling the pinion angle is actually the driveline angle. So my pinion angle was 12° and adding the shims changed it to 16° So my angles: Drive shaft Angle: 22° Pinion Angle: 16° (after shims) Rear Driveline angle: 6° 2.5” suspension lift, 1” body lift, 35” tires
What I found makes a great center bolt for your spring stack is a nice long allen head cap screw you can get them in serveral lengths and if I remember right 3/8" NF is what I used. The round head goes in the hole in the spring perch and you can tighten them easily with a allen wrench on the headed side and a regular socket on the top side. Most of these are grade 5 so they are a bit stronger then the stock mild steel factory pin anyway. I also used a Nylock nut and lock washer on mine.
LOL, thought the same thing. I get the same vibrations over 45mph. .Just bought new leaf springs (2-1/2” lift) and will try the shims from the get go. Thanks for the videos.
If you have a drive shaft with a single u-joint at each end, you want your pinion angle the same as your transfer case angle, or as close as possible. If you're using a drive shaft with a double cardan joint at the transfer case end, you want your pinion angle as close to zero as possible. Make sure you're measuring angles with the suspension compressed under the weight of the vehicle.don't jack up your vehicles and put jack stands under the frame and let the suspension drop, your angles won't be correct.
I just wanted to add, now that the axle pinion has moved upwards, your driveshaft angle has also decreased. You should remeasure the driveline to see the difference in the angles.
The way I do it with moderate lift and drive shaft with u joints on each end,,I use a digital angle finder,,put it on the face of either the tail shaft or the pinion and zero it out,,then check it on opposite,ther is your degree shim you need to make them parallel
You should get those leaf perches rewelded, so you can get proper pinion angle, that style driveshaft coming off the yolk on the axle should be pointing straight at the transfer case with it set to 0° or 1° difference.
The angle between the driveshaft and rear axle needs to be the same as angle between transmission and driveshaft. Also the angle cant be to steep. Then there should be no vibration couse of angels
What you are reterencing is correct on a "street car" or truck, but lifted 4x4's do not work the same. If the angle is matched at both ends you end up with joint bind on articulation. On lifted off road vehicles we get our pinion pointed directly at the t case outpuf to eliminate vibrations, and also keep it out of harms way when on the trail
Forgive my ignorance as I don’t know an awful lot about differentials. But having the rear pinion angled upward toward the driveshaft- couldn’t an excessive amount of upward tilt starve the pinion of oil?
In a ujoint on each end driveshaft,,the output shaft and pinion needs to b parallel to each other,,as long as you stay in a moderate lift situation,,the way I did it,,was take a digital angle finder,,I zeroed it out on the pinion and then put it on the tail shaft,,boom,,gave me the degree shim to use,,did it visey versy,,boom same thing
Great video! Another common thing is the driveshaft itself is not on the correct spline, causing the universal joints on each end to be “out of step” with each other. With how old all these trucks are I’m sure at some point the driveshaft was incorrectly removed and taking apart
any way an at home mechanic can find the correct orientation without bringing it to a driveline shop? I believe I'm off, my tcase shifts great but the rear has some leaks it looks like from stress; also my ujoints often fail earlier then expected. It's definitely pinion angle AND/OR current orientation.
This is the best video ever I've read so many forums which just confused me. You answered all my qs. Definitely recommending to others. BTW broncos suck lol just kidding awesome rig. (86 k5 3/4)
so you said your final angle was 4* . Did you do the math on both angles again? If you bring the pinion up 4* the driveshaft will move about 2* up and that will equal 6*.
Thanks for still pumping out the content! I have a 2.5 inch suspension lift and never noticed any vibration, so maybe it's not enough to make a difference. However, I added a drop pitman arm last year thinking that I needed it it after lifting it, and man, I have bump-steer now! I'm fighting the steering wheel with every bump in the road. I'm thinking of putting the original pitman arm back on. What do you think?
The operating angle of the U-joint at the pinion is only half the equation. The operating angle at the transfer case U-joint needs to be taken into account also. A U-joint does not produce a constant velocity is it rotates. However, two U-joints operating equal and opposite can cancel out this velocity variation. Then of course, there is the maximum operating angle of any single U-joint. 10 degrees is a lot of operating angle. A complete fix would include dropping your transfer case and reducing the overall angles.
Im installing a 4” lift on my 91 bronco. For rear using add a leaf and 2” block. I decided im not gonna use the block. Would i still need this even tho im going to run bronco graveyards oem rear spring angle block
Wow I was worried about mine and I’m running a CV. Mine is way closer to zero than that. I think I’ll wait until all the weights back on it and drive it for a while but I was considering shims also.
So now you have 16 degrees at the pinion, but do you have 16 degrees at the transmission? If your front and rear U-joints are too far apart, say pinion is at 16 and transmission is at 2, you will get binding and vibration.
I'm have this issue on a 91 Volvo that I was drifting been drift for years and I've never hit anything I hit the curb once and the car has been down for about a year now it's still runs still moves even though I did remove the support for the carrier bearing to try to angle it out but I think I might have to remove the springs which I don't know how to do I am not a mechanic imma tinkerer I just mess with things and make sure they're tight. I hit a curb the upper torque rod that goes to the top of the differential is dislodged and I can't straighten the differential out from pointing to the bottom of the floor of the car I'm wondering do I unhook the lower torque rod Bolt
Hmmm. The important thing is that your pinion angle matches your transmission output angle. If your trans shaft is pointing down at 3 degrees your pinion should point up 3 degrees. (Measured with the weight on all 4 wheels.)
I’m pretty sure that only applies to standard driveshafts not one with a double cardan. But I’m not positive, I’m here trying learn something. Let me know what you think.
I have you a measurement. 90 f150 w/6inch suspension lift. Drive shaft degree is 16 degrees pinion with Drive shaft removed is 5 degrees. I have 35x12.50x15.. what degrees should I be
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco describe the vibration you were hearing , trying to figure out if it’s the same situation I’m fighting . As long as my foots on the gas I don’t don’t hear it , it’s as soon as I take my foot of the gas and im coasting I heard the god awful screaming vibrations . Was that similar to your issue ? Thanks
Not here to bash your channel but your way off on your approach, the only angles that matter are the transmission/transfer case angle and differential pinion angle and they need to cancel each other out. That being said the more degrees you have the more precise the cancellation needs to be, or go to a CV joint on the transfer case and set the diff pinion at 0 degrees. Also if you have a two piece shaft with worn out splines then your ujoints can become out of phase and also cause a vibration.
Just saw the vid you did with Bronco Garage on the heim steering. Still liking it? Any issues with road manners, squeaks or parts coming loose? Any bump steer? About to make a decision on the crossover setup with heims or the Y link setup with tie rods.
This dealt with driveline angles, and is not correct. There is no debate among driveline professionals, The pinion and the differential and output shaft should be parallel and yokes should be in phase. A very detailed Elaborate explanation is in order like Spicer and Dana have offered. I don’t think you can answer that question within the space of these comments.
during that vibrations your steering wheels shakes.....I don't have a ford Bronco but I do have a Ford 150 with Rough Country 4' lift kit with 33x12.50R24 with -44 offset..
I just watched the vid bc I am about to do a lowered 68 Camaro. Your vid never said if the vibration went away. Also couldnt help notice the drive shaft appears to be installed backwards. Every driveline I have ever seen has the narrow slip joint away from the diff. Perhaps this may cause vibes especially if those splines are worn.
Drive shaft way too short as slip spline will start to wobble. Must be lengthened. Double cardan joint by transmission is fine and proper angled shims should do the trick.
Jon, Cool to see you back again. It’s always nice when you test the function of the Bronco to include the results of the changes you’ve made prior to releasing an update. I’m left wondering if the wedges eliminated your driveline vibrations?? When I drug my ‘73 bronco from a junkyard, it had a 5 1/2” Wild Horses lift and the rear u-joint was broken off at the diff. I replaced the u-joint and quickly noticed an abnormal binding, did research, called Wild Horses & discovered that the POwner failed to install any wedge shins. I added the 6° wedges and this made a huge difference, but I still have a bit of vibration at 55mph. Perhaps the comment above by Yablo69 referencing a video about unmatched Tcase/driveshaft angle-vs-driveshaft/diff angle is the answer. It gets more complicated, however, since there’s a double cardan joint at the tcase side of driveshaft. Also, How ‘bout the relocation of your fuel pump away from the exhaust on the last vid...did that work to remedy the problem w/ the same pump? Thanks, HYoung
Good info, I'm doing a ground up build on a 72 and just added these shims to my 5.5" leaf springs and have been wondering about my driveline angles? Tom's built me a new complete custom 9" rear end but I can't drive there right now to pick it up, locked down!!
Your pinion angle to drive line changes when you change 1 the other changes. You need to know look at the drive line angle. I bet total it change 6-7 degrees.
Am I the only one that realizes you did this wrong? You had the shim wedge correct the 1st time. To lower the pinion the large end goes toward the front. But you also dont know what correct shim to install because you didn't find the angle of the output on the transfer case
your installation explanation was wrong. ..you could have done another video, edit to remove your mistake ...this is called messing up .. and also no comments on vibration after installation
As long as those two flanges are at the same angle your driveline can be at any angle the steep for the angle the quicker than you joints Well we’re out
**Update** I refer to the “pinion angle” a lot in this video, but I miss-used that term. “Pinion Angle” is the angle of the differential to 0° - what I kept calling the pinion angle is actually the driveline angle. So my pinion angle was 12° and adding the shims changed it to 16°
So my angles:
Drive shaft Angle: 22°
Pinion Angle: 16° (after shims)
Rear Driveline angle: 6°
2.5” suspension lift, 1” body lift, 35” tires
78° ?
What 6° ?
@nashvilleearlybronco DUUUUUDE, dud it fix your vibration tho??
Great video! Your pronunciation is extremely helpfully for me especially because I’m learning English and the same I’m trying to fix my Jeep. Ty
Nice!
What I found makes a great center bolt for your spring stack is a nice long allen head cap screw you can get them in serveral lengths and if I remember right 3/8" NF is what I used. The round head goes in the hole in the spring perch and you can tighten them easily with a allen wrench on the headed side and a regular socket on the top side. Most of these are grade 5 so they are a bit stronger then the stock mild steel factory pin anyway. I also used a Nylock nut and lock washer on mine.
OMG what happened with your vibration issue that's the whole reason I watched this to the end. WTF 😫TRIGGERED ASF
Totally fixed the vibration 🙌🏼
LOL, thought the same thing. I get the same vibrations over 45mph. .Just bought new leaf springs (2-1/2” lift) and will try the shims from the get go. Thanks for the videos.
What about the angle at the transfer case? Can that be an issue? Great vid
My shims arrived from Wild Horses right when your video came up. Great timing!
Haha! That’s amazing
Glad to see you’re putting out more content lately. Keep it up!
Will do!
Tire balance is an even better place to start😜
If you have a drive shaft with a single u-joint at each end, you want your pinion angle the same as your transfer case angle, or as close as possible. If you're using a drive shaft with a double cardan joint at the transfer case end, you want your pinion angle as close to zero as possible. Make sure you're measuring angles with the suspension compressed under the weight of the vehicle.don't jack up your vehicles and put jack stands under the frame and let the suspension drop, your angles won't be correct.
Exactly
Changing the angle of the pinion yoke will also change the angle of the driveshaft
I just wanted to add, now that the axle pinion has moved upwards, your driveshaft angle has also decreased. You should remeasure the driveline to see the difference in the angles.
Flip your drive shaft around so you slip yoke is on the out put of the transfer case. Sometimes the splines wear and will cause a vibration
The way I do it with moderate lift and drive shaft with u joints on each end,,I use a digital angle finder,,put it on the face of either the tail shaft or the pinion and zero it out,,then check it on opposite,ther is your degree shim you need to make them parallel
You should get those leaf perches rewelded, so you can get proper pinion angle, that style driveshaft coming off the yolk on the axle should be pointing straight at the transfer case with it set to 0° or 1° difference.
Good tip, thank you
The angle between the driveshaft and rear axle needs to be the same as angle between transmission and driveshaft. Also the angle cant be to steep. Then there should be no vibration couse of angels
I know you meant angles, but I really prefer to imagine now that the angels are alleviating the vibrations.
😂😂
English is my second language. If I wrote Angel it was probably couse I was tired 😂. I know its written angle. Glad you understood😁
What you are reterencing is correct on a "street car" or truck, but lifted 4x4's do not work the same. If the angle is matched at both ends you end up with joint bind on articulation. On lifted off road vehicles we get our pinion pointed directly at the t case outpuf to eliminate vibrations, and also keep it out of harms way when on the trail
Forgive my ignorance as I don’t know an awful lot about differentials. But having the rear pinion angled upward toward the driveshaft- couldn’t an excessive amount of upward tilt starve the pinion of oil?
In a ujoint on each end driveshaft,,the output shaft and pinion needs to b parallel to each other,,as long as you stay in a moderate lift situation,,the way I did it,,was take a digital angle finder,,I zeroed it out on the pinion and then put it on the tail shaft,,boom,,gave me the degree shim to use,,did it visey versy,,boom same thing
If you rechecked driveshaft angle that number would have changed too.so you got more than you thought.
Good to know!
Ya think it’s 16* drive line angle now. Are you running a double cardan drive shaft?
Great video! Another common thing is the driveshaft itself is not on the correct spline, causing the universal joints on each end to be “out of step” with each other. With how old all these trucks are I’m sure at some point the driveshaft was incorrectly removed and taking apart
Oh good thinking!
any way an at home mechanic can find the correct orientation without bringing it to a driveline shop? I believe I'm off, my tcase shifts great but the rear has some leaks it looks like from stress; also my ujoints often fail earlier then expected. It's definitely pinion angle AND/OR current orientation.
So, what changed with the vibration? Did the shims help???
This is the best video ever I've read so many forums which just confused me. You answered all my qs. Definitely recommending to others. BTW broncos suck lol just kidding awesome rig. (86 k5 3/4)
Haha! Thanks Cameron
I'm guessing there's vibration you were getting is coming from the driveshaft being to short. That slip yoke is at most 2 in from popping out.
78 scout
Had to change my perch angles
6” lift
37 tires on 20” wheels
why do you need to remove the centering bolt? all you have to do is losen it and spin the shim around
so you said your final angle was 4* . Did you do the math on both angles again? If you bring the pinion up 4* the driveshaft will move about 2* up and that will equal 6*.
You can measure pinion and working pinion angles off of the bolt heads on the pinion on the rear of it as well. Do you have a double cardan?
Great video thank you
Thanks for still pumping out the content! I have a 2.5 inch suspension lift and never noticed any vibration, so maybe it's not enough to make a difference. However, I added a drop pitman arm last year thinking that I needed it it after lifting it, and man, I have bump-steer now! I'm fighting the steering wheel with every bump in the road. I'm thinking of putting the original pitman arm back on. What do you think?
Try it! You’ll never know unless you try it.
You shouldn't need a drop pitman arm with only 2.5 lift.
How about try supporting the vehicle jackstands
Youre not getting differential oil to that bearing thats raised in the air point under the bronco
Never mind the pinion angle..where’d you get the hair cut???
Haha! My wife has some skills
The top probably isn't within regs but it ain't touching his ears!
So did it work?
The operating angle of the U-joint at the pinion is only half the equation. The operating angle at the transfer case U-joint needs to be taken into account also. A U-joint does not produce a constant velocity is it rotates. However, two U-joints operating equal and opposite can cancel out this velocity variation. Then of course, there is the maximum operating angle of any single U-joint. 10 degrees is a lot of operating angle. A complete fix would include dropping your transfer case and reducing the overall angles.
Im installing a 4” lift on my 91 bronco. For rear using add a leaf and 2” block. I decided im not gonna use the block.
Would i still need this even tho im going to run bronco graveyards oem rear spring angle block
Omg. Just what I been looking for months.
I have a 2003 Ford F-150 put a 5inch lift with 35s, you think I need those shims? Where can I get them?
Can pinion angle vibration be intermittent at highway speed?
Just putting a TBP 2.5 lift in our 77. Did you have to lengthen your driveshaft as well?
Nope, it all fit back together 👍🏼
Wow I was worried about mine and I’m running a CV. Mine is way closer to zero than that. I think I’ll wait until all the weights back on it and drive it for a while but I was considering shims also.
My pinion angle brought me here.
The length of this 1 piece drive shaft, would it work for a 2008 5.4L F250 🤔
Did the vibration go away??
Yes!
So now you have 16 degrees at the pinion, but do you have 16 degrees at the transmission? If your front and rear U-joints are too far apart, say pinion is at 16 and transmission is at 2, you will get binding and vibration.
Good to mnow
Does a 'how to fix your driveline vibration issue' video... never says if it actually worked or not. Update please?
Sorry, it fixed it! That was my problem with vibration 👍🏼
I'm have this issue on a 91 Volvo that I was drifting been drift for years and I've never hit anything I hit the curb once and the car has been down for about a year now it's still runs still moves even though I did remove the support for the carrier bearing to try to angle it out but I think I might have to remove the springs which I don't know how to do I am not a mechanic imma tinkerer I just mess with things and make sure they're tight. I hit a curb the upper torque rod that goes to the top of the differential is dislodged and I can't straighten the differential out from pointing to the bottom of the floor of the car I'm wondering do I unhook the lower torque rod Bolt
Yikes! Bummer man. I have a 92 Volvo 🤘🏼🤘🏼
So how did it drive?
Yeah really. What's the point of making this video if we don't know if it was a waste of time and money or if it worked.
Drove great! Fixed the probelm 👍🏼👍🏼
I wonder what Banks thinks about angling a diff.
Hmmm.
The important thing is that your pinion angle matches your transmission output angle.
If your trans shaft is pointing down at 3 degrees your pinion should point up 3 degrees.
(Measured with the weight on all 4 wheels.)
I’m pretty sure that only applies to standard driveshafts not one with a double cardan. But I’m not positive, I’m here trying learn something. Let me know what you think.
So I didn't hear the results if it helped or not? I don't want to go buy them if they didn't help the vibration. Thanks.
They did help with my vibration issues 👍🏼
I have you a measurement.
90 f150 w/6inch suspension lift. Drive shaft degree is 16 degrees pinion with Drive shaft removed is 5 degrees. I have 35x12.50x15.. what degrees should I be
So what’s the update how’s it look and feel now?
It fixed it! No more vibration
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco describe the vibration you were hearing , trying to figure out if it’s the same situation I’m fighting . As long as my foots on the gas I don’t don’t hear it , it’s as soon as I take my foot of the gas and im coasting I heard the god awful screaming vibrations . Was that similar to your issue ? Thanks
I think so. Sounds similar
Nice hairpiece 👍🏼
Not here to bash your channel but your way off on your approach, the only angles that matter are the transmission/transfer case angle and differential pinion angle and they need to cancel each other out. That being said the more degrees you have the more precise the cancellation needs to be, or go to a CV joint on the transfer case and set the diff pinion at 0 degrees. Also if you have a two piece shaft with worn out splines then your ujoints can become out of phase and also cause a vibration.
Did it help with the vibration?
It did!
The pinion angle should be parallel to the transmission angle. Thats it. Otherwise you’ll get an oscillating speed at the end.
Just saw the vid you did with Bronco Garage on the heim steering. Still liking it? Any issues with road manners, squeaks or parts coming loose? Any bump steer? About to make a decision on the crossover setup with heims or the Y link setup with tie rods.
Love it! No squeaks, and handles great
Just make sure the pinion flange is the same angle as the flange on your transmission for your transfer case
Did the shims fix your vibration?🤷♂️
Grabbing Gears Garage I still haven’t driven it yet 😬😬
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco 🤖🔫
This dealt with driveline angles, and is not correct. There is no debate among driveline professionals, The pinion and the differential and output shaft should be parallel and yokes should be in phase. A very detailed Elaborate explanation is in order like Spicer and Dana have offered. I don’t think you can answer that question within the space of these comments.
during that vibrations your steering wheels shakes.....I don't have a ford Bronco but I do have a Ford 150 with Rough Country 4' lift kit with 33x12.50R24 with -44 offset..
Steering wheel shakes are probably a wheel balance problem. A driveshaft problem will be felt in the floorboards and seats
I just watched the vid bc I am about to do a lowered 68 Camaro. Your vid never said if the vibration went away. Also couldnt help notice the drive shaft appears to be installed backwards. Every driveline I have ever seen has the narrow slip joint away from the diff. Perhaps this may cause vibes especially if those splines are worn.
The vibration went away 🙌🏼 not sure about it being installed backwards
Drive shaft way too short as slip spline will start to wobble. Must be lengthened. Double cardan joint by transmission is fine and proper angled shims should do the trick.
Jon,
Cool to see you back again.
It’s always nice when you test the function of the Bronco to include the results of the changes you’ve made prior to releasing an update.
I’m left wondering if the wedges eliminated your driveline vibrations??
When I drug my ‘73 bronco from a junkyard, it had a 5 1/2” Wild Horses lift and the rear u-joint was broken off at the diff. I replaced the u-joint and quickly noticed an abnormal binding, did research, called Wild Horses & discovered that the POwner failed to install any wedge shins. I added the 6° wedges and this made a huge difference, but I still have a bit of vibration at 55mph.
Perhaps the comment above by Yablo69 referencing a video about unmatched Tcase/driveshaft angle-vs-driveshaft/diff angle is the answer.
It gets more complicated, however, since there’s a double cardan joint at the tcase side of driveshaft.
Also, How ‘bout the relocation of your fuel pump away from the exhaust on the last vid...did that work to remedy the problem w/ the same pump?
Thanks,
HYoung
Good info, I'm doing a ground up build on a 72 and just added these shims to my 5.5" leaf springs and have been wondering about my driveline angles? Tom's built me a new complete custom 9" rear end but I can't drive there right now to pick it up, locked down!!
Bummer! Hope you get it soon
Your pinion angle to drive line changes when you change 1 the other changes. You need to know look at the drive line angle. I bet total it change 6-7 degrees.
Question
Does it matter if the yokes on opposite ends are lined up? I was told it helps with vibration🤷🏻♂️
Am I the only one that realizes you did this wrong?
You had the shim wedge correct the 1st time. To lower the pinion the large end goes toward the front.
But you also dont know what correct shim to install because you didn't find the angle of the output on the transfer case
Yes indeed, WRONG !!! now take it apart and turn the shims around.
5:20 try an impact on that to break it loose with out having to back it up
Shouldn’t it be the same angle and pinion angle as the flange on the transmission both of those should be the same angle to get rid of vibration
Wtf did it work or not?? No drive video??
your installation explanation was wrong. ..you could have done another video, edit to remove your mistake ...this is called messing up .. and also no comments on vibration after installation
As long as those two flanges are at the same angle your driveline can be at any angle the steep for the angle the quicker than you joints Well we’re out
Sounds to me is you're Bronco curious 😏
But it increase the height of the back though
Did the vibration stop? Thx
It did!
This actually makes me want to go check mine haha...but it's on the lift😐
Haha! Get it down and drive it!
Lucky he wasn't an incline when he released a driveshaft because the truck would I just rolled backwards
If you were lucky you just needed to rebalance the tires that’s where I always start and most of the time it works
This is still wrong
that driveline is way to short lol that could of caused vibration also.
Way to much pinion angle. Under a load will kick up even more.SMH
8 degrees max
Typical 2 minutes of intro and talking in circles.