you could have a button guarded by dragons, a shark moat, a football field full of punji sticks and all of this at the end of the universe that says 'WARNING: THIS WILL DESTROY THE UNIVERSE, DO NOT PRESS' and someone will still come along and press it to see what happens
Thanks for the info on the Adams driveshaft marks. Very useful knowledge for those who own a Adams. Bleepin Jeep has been very helpful in my journey in maintain my Wrangler. Keep up the great work.
A double cardan joint is basically a short drive shaft with equal angles on both ends. That is how it achieves constant velocity. The centering ball arrangement keeps the joint from flopping around and keep the angle of both U joints the same.
Ok let me get this stright . Say i have a 1980 toyota corolla and instead of lowering it like most , i raise it 4 inches and swap out the two piece driveshaft for a single. Then add a double cardan up front on the teanny yoke , that will take care of the driveline angles ? In other words no vibrations .
Hey Mat, I was always told to keep at least 3 to 4 degrees misalignment at both ends of the drive shafts (not point the pinion directly at the transfer case). Especially on street driven vehicles. The reason is to keep the roller berrings rolling in the ujoint. If they don't roll it will cause premature ujoint failure. On a trail only rig, it wouldn't make a difference because the drive shaft is constantly changing angle anyway. keep the Vids coming I love this channel
I've heard this too. Seems like it would be best to have the rear pinion a few degrees lower than parallel so when the vehicle is driving, the small amount of axle wrap will move the pinion up to parallel with the shaft and actually reduce and vibrations.
Actually you want the joints as parallel as possible but you just want them not on the same plane. And that's a good old school trick when converting truck to 4wd or adding an auxiliary brownie transmission. Just take two very straight 2 or 3 ft pieces of channel iron. Drill and bolt one to the trans (or transfer case) and one to the diff u-joint flange. Spin both flanges so the rods are parallel then measure the end to end difference and turn the trans or tc left or right slightly to get that trans mounting point orientation spot. Any good tape measure will work ok. Then spin both flanges so the channel irons are vertical and measure them end to end. Shim the axle until those two readings are exactly the same. This will give you excellent results without using any angle finder reader. Just make sure the distance from the ground to the axle flange is different than the distance of the trans or tc flange is to the ground. Higher or lower does not matter but they must be different (not on the same plane) otherwise you will quickly destroy the u-joints. Words of wisdom from someone not a mechanic but doing this stuff all his life.
Can you make a video showing installing new rear adjustable on a tj? I need to install new ones and am unsure how to go about it while setting the right pinion angle.
Ahh I see where you have found inspiration 😁👍 love your channel Mr. Brad!! I actually just picked up a '13 JKU! You may or may not have helped influence me to do so! 🤣👍
You should do a video on swapping in an 8.8 and setting up the pinion angle with a front DS used in the back :D That's my next mod and looking to hopefully do it all without using shims or longer shackles (which also change the angle).
Hey Mat, as much as 4 degrees might be a little much. However I've noticed on almost all street vehicles there is a slight misalignment at factory ride hight.
Hey Matt I got a question, I hear a lot of people say ideally the pinion angle should be 2-3 degrees below the angle of the driveshaft on a double cardan shaft. But what is the max tolerable angle you can run?
The reason you would need to find the angle of the pinion, or the angle of the t-case is to ensure they are both Parallel (in the case where you are not running cardigan joints). As you know, setting the incorrect angle will cause more force to be applied to one of the u joints than the other. And in my case, I have a swapped engine, causing the transfer case to slope slightly, when I set my pinion angle (w/o cardigan) I needed to know the angle of the output and pinion to make sure they were parallel and to prevent this problem.
thanks for your videos!! I have a problem with the swap I am doing. It is a 5.3 ls engine and a 4L60 gearbox. my platform is a Jeep CJ The transfer case is an NP 208. The front outlet of the transfer appears to be pointing up as does the front differential. These angles are not parallel. Can the shims be used to direct the differential output downward?
Doesn't the cardan split the angle between the two u joints? Original single was running at 30 deg. , add the cardan, now each of those two is running at 15 deg.?
When setting pinion angle don't go too extreme. you can have the axle rotated at too high of an angle and starve the pinion bearings of oil and shell them out. just a heads up.
This video is pretty old but maybe you'll still be able to answer this for me. On the front which is more important? Pinion angle or caster? Or spilt the difference
hi, I appreciate the video. It's nice when someone can just teach and talk normally without hype or annoying music. However, aren't those new drive shafts assembled incorrectly or upside down? If the double cardon is up high at the transfer case, shouldn't that be where the slip joint should be also? With the slip joint lower at the diff the slip joint is more exposed to water, mud and dirt and with the female part of the slip joint pointing somewhat upward, water that gets in cannot drain out. Just some questions because I'm no mechanic and I'm watching these videos to learn. Thank you.
Bleepinjeep Hey Matt I recently put a tom woods driveshaft in my Cherokee but seems to be just hair to short but I did get it installed just a pain in the a** and I would love to go with Adams after watching this because of how much travel in the slip their is and what would be the best way to keep the splines greased
hello friend of jeeps so my problem is im not trying to buy a new shaft rear 93 xj with sye installed my question is what other trucks and SUVs in the junkyard will have the what i need? oh you rock
Quick question, is the double carbon I think you call it driveshaft offroad reliable? I was told that because of those multiple joints it could break easier from stress when off roading
Is this only for the rear? I have a JKUR with a 6” RC and a vibration at 55. Local shops in Knoxville are kinda giving me the run around. Any advice is appreciated also I love my freedom winch line
Was thinking to myself "I'm going to comment and mention the major Mr. Roger vibes I'm getting" then I immediately see the first comment mentioning the same 🤣👍
I'm running an Adams and a teraflex sye. I'm still confused a little. so for me the rear pinion has to be pointing at the t-case and that's it not like a stock set up where they have to match the angle or is there some crazy math involved? I never new that the Adams was marked to line up like that. good info I should double check that since it fell out once when I was replacing the u joint. want expecting that lol. I love watching your vids. you have helped me a lot over the years.
With a single u joint driveshaft the two angle must be the same, if not the driveshaft will actually wobble on its axis which will make vibrations. Think of the u joints and how they rotate, that’s also why the are timed or clocked a certain way.
The rear pinion with a SYE and CV driveshaft points AT the CASE. The front CANNOT point at the case because when you rotate the front pinion UP, it rotates the steering knuckles DOWN. So up front you cannot point the pinion at the case, unless you cut off your knuckles and weld them back on at the proper castor angle.
Hi Matt. If I am switching from a 2 joint shaft to a CV, you mention turning the pinion up to point and the TC. Do you do this by eye or does it need to be at a specific angle??
Here's a stupid question. How critical is the length measurement when ordering a replacement drive shaft (known dimensions) especially if the new drive shaft has a telescoping slip of 4 "?
Great video, I have a question I recently had a 12" inch BulletProof Suspension kit professionally installed on my 2015 Toyota Tacoma 2wd. along with 37x13.50x22 tires on 22x14 wheels. I notice when driving there's a chattering sound that appears to be coming from the center area underneath the truck maybe the driveshaft. So I was wondering would a one piece driveshaft correct this problem if the chattering is indeed the driveshaft? Your opinion/help is much appreciated.
GREAT VIDOE MATT I HAVE A QUESTION IAM GETTING A 4.5 ROUGHT COUNTRY LIFT. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW OTHER THEN THE LIFTKIT WHAT OTHER PARTS WOULD NEED TO UPGRADE ON MY XJ
5:42 I don't understand how a double cardan driveshaft can be out of phase. Isn't the purpose of the double cardan unit to take care of the phasing and keep the shaft spinning at a consistent RPM (hence the nickname constant velocity driveshaft). I'd guess that the match marks are there to keep the welded on balance weights in the right position.
Its odd most the vehicles I've owned (with rear wheel drive) have had a driveshaft with single U-joints on each end at a angle of about 10-15 degrees (i.e. the pinion is level with the ground and the driveshaft goes up at 10 to 15 degrees to meet the transfer case.) But this video isn't the only place that says you need 30 degrees to run the U-joints properly... My current vehicle I believe is about 25 to 30 degrees for the rear drive shaft (wich is huge btw, probably one of the longest single driveshafts you'll ever see on a 1/2 ton) and the front axle is mounted from a fixed transfer case to a fixed differential via double cardan set up (still to factory specs) into CV axles that are at 22 degrees of angle. Anywho.. my whole point is I think I have it all correct. But its still confusing lol (no odd noises or skipping occur) again rear shaft 25-30 degrees, front cv shafts at 22 degrees.
My xj is 2wd so i lift it 3 inch and a vibration was dwveloped, so i want to hear your advise, can i only turn the rear axle up where the shaft engages to change the angle of the diferential? And delete the vibration?
Good video... my question is I have a lot vibration after installing 4” rough country lift kit.... I done 2 alignment rebalance the tires.... the vibration still there ...
Hi I have a question why is the splined slip joint on the tail shaft longer and thicker than the front shaft slip, (the front you cannot see the splines) thanks!
So my cj5 has a 4.2 straight six, T4 garbage sack, and a Dana 300 transfer case. Like any rational person I want to swap in an ax15 trans. But the trans is so long that even with a S.Y.E. on the D300 my angle would be too tight for the rear drive shaft. Some rumor a CV shaft would fix it, but I don't plan on playing those games. It looks like my only 5 speed option is a T5, but that's not touching my baby anytime soon. It looks like my best option is an SM465 transmission. You think one of these fancy driveshafts and some shims under the rear leaf springs would let me squeeze in an AX15?
Hey Matt so if you're welding a truss on and plan on doing a 4 link suspension does it matter where the truss sits on the axle? or is just flat on top?
I set up my pinion angle myself (DC drive shaft and ford 8.8 rear) and used an angle finder. Although i didnt really know what i was doing to well. I just tried to aim it towards the sye yoke. Im driving now and i have no vibes at least up to 50mph because i haven't hit the highway yet. Does this mean i did everything ok if i have no problems.
Question. If you are changing the pinion angle on the front axle wouldn't that change your castor? So how to you get the right castor and pinion angle on your front axle?
Jared Collins, to get your pinion and caster at optimal angles you'd need an aftermarket axle housing that has that angle built into it. That's the simplest and surest way of achieving it. Another way is to cut your knuckles off and reweld them at proper angles, but who would wanna do that.
just put a 4” short arm lift kit on my 2004 tj rubicon. i dont have the sye problem but do i need double cardon drive shafts? there pricey. as of right now i dont see a problem but i dont want to create one either. suggestions? thx
Hello. Can u help me, please? I didn't undestand. When i use driveshaft with double cardan(like u new), what pinion angle do i need? Such as transfer case angle? My transfer case angle = 7 My pinion angle = 12 But i have driveshaft with double cardan. Thank you, and sorry for my english
I'm having trouble with my 96 XJ it runs just fine but when I shut it off it won't start again for hours. Motor still cranks but no fire. Things I've checked and or replaced (engine temp sensor, distributor assembly, dis cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter are good, good fuel pressure) I've been told it could be a "heat soak" problem which I've personally never heard of but could u do a video of replacing injectors with ones from a dodge neon. That's what I've heard works best but I'm still unforsure
a buddy had this problem for a long time. he always thought it was heat sink... turns out it was the fuel pump... had something to do with fuel pressure.
+BleepinJeep thanks I replaced the ignition coil hoping that was the problem n it wasn't so I'll do fuel pump n filter next. Btw love the videos I'd love to see more projects n see the scorpion out on the trial
Your second whiteboard drawing - the two angles are 15 deg each, not 30 deg. Which is why the double cardan is bitchin'. The other 30 deg is the pumpkin angle. Correct me if I'm wrong....correct yourself if I'm right. ;)
i bought a 2001 Jeep Cherokee sport 10 years ago. It had a new 2" lift on it. I drove it for 10 years, then a bad vibration started. Its horrible. A Jeep mechanic says I need a SYE and Double Cardan drive shaft to fix it. Is this common? Does a vibration just come out of nowhere 10 years after a lift was installed?
Hello, help me please, I want to mount a XJ 2.5 Diesel front shaft on my CJ7 with dana 300 and dana30 front output yoke ZJ fit on front output dana 300?
Matt I know you used to show budget friendly stuff (the "bastard" pack rear leaf lift ) but you didn't mention anything about using a stock front shaft on the rear with an sye ? why not?
Sure it can be done if you have the right length but the last year of the XJ was 2001 so any stock shaft is going to be at least 16 years old by now and most are questionable... not to mention most junkyards bend the shafts when they move the jeeps around with the forklift.
Yep that's how mine was done. a shaft from a 4.0 aw4 jeep does nice. Of course with a monster like yours I would want a better shaft anyways but for my 4.5" on 33"s it's more than strong enough.
Queso Bob plus its cheaper and if it breaks then u can get a better 1, nosense to spend more then need be , alot of builds r overkill in cost and strength compared to actuall use it will get
i bought a adams driveshaft for my jeep wrangler after i bought the sye and god f...cken dam its a 1nch to long what is my best and chepest way to go about it any ideas
Abel Cerrillo Depends on the length you need. I did a auto trans to manual trans swap I my 84 f250. The driveshaft that came with the manual from the donor truck was two piece, but it was shot. Had a shop custom make a single shaft. I believe they said the longest they could go was 76-78". They made mine out of aluminum, and they had to make it 6" thick to compensate to make it strong enough not to twist, it's pretty insane, even if it cost $850
I like your videos very much. And I hear you and your colleagues ask us, the viewers, to give you thumbs up, checking your links and join your here on RUclips. When we do that, it gives you a lot of advantages, that is also ok, because you make the videos. But then, I also think that you have obligations to answer every single question we ask you. It must go both ways. Please think of that.
How would you correct your caster angle after turning your pinion up like that? I’m swapping a Dana 60 to the front of my tj, and trying to figure it this is going to be a problem or not. Thanks
u~ jont phaizing,,, you used hand motion to discribe,, that,? it should be both ends drive shaft u joints same posision , ( clocked the same ), pinion angle ( single ) should match same degree as out put trans case, yes ?
Adam's doesn't do the boot but Tom Woods driveshafts has that as an option. I'm not sure if you can get a boot for the Adam's or not. Haven't looked. I just grease it after any water fording or 4500 miles with the oil changes and chassis lube work.
I thought this was a good video. I have most of the parts to add the Dana 60's, and NP205 case to my W150 Powerwagon. Making a half ton drive train into a one ton. Don't understand all the thumbs down.
You are the Mr. Rogers of offroading. Great tutorial, thank you.
Or maybe the Bob Ross of off-roading.
I don't know why anyone dislikes these videos.
you could have a button guarded by dragons, a shark moat, a football field full of punji sticks and all of this at the end of the universe that says 'WARNING: THIS WILL DESTROY THE UNIVERSE, DO NOT PRESS' and someone will still come along and press it to see what happens
Thanks for the info on the Adams driveshaft marks. Very useful knowledge for those who own a Adams. Bleepin Jeep has been very helpful in my journey in maintain my Wrangler. Keep up the great work.
Glad I ran into this Matt! This is where I will get my SYE and driveshaft.
Great to hear someone who can help brake this down for me. Thanks a bunch.
i've learned so much from this channel!
A double cardan joint is basically a short drive shaft with equal angles on both ends. That is how it achieves constant velocity. The centering ball arrangement keeps the joint from flopping around and keep the angle of both U joints the same.
Ok let me get this stright .
Say i have a 1980 toyota corolla and instead of lowering it like most , i raise it 4 inches and swap out the two piece driveshaft for a single.
Then add a double cardan up front on the teanny yoke , that will take care of the driveline angles ?
In other words no vibrations .
Matt i love you're videos. They help me out tremendously. Keep up the hard work brother. Many thanks
Hey Mat, I was always told to keep at least 3 to 4 degrees misalignment at both ends of the drive shafts (not point the pinion directly at the transfer case). Especially on street driven vehicles. The reason is to keep the roller berrings rolling in the ujoint. If they don't roll it will cause premature ujoint failure. On a trail only rig, it wouldn't make a difference because the drive shaft is constantly changing angle anyway. keep the Vids coming I love this channel
hmmm, i havent looked into that... would that not cause vibes at highway speeds?
I've heard this too. Seems like it would be best to have the rear pinion a few degrees lower than parallel so when the vehicle is driving, the small amount of axle wrap will move the pinion up to parallel with the shaft and actually reduce and vibrations.
jake32401 makes sense cuz the torque wuld lift it a little
1-2 angles is all that's necessary to achieve that goal, 3-4 is excessive
Actually you want the joints as parallel as possible but you just want them not on the same plane. And that's a good old school trick when converting truck to 4wd or adding an auxiliary brownie transmission. Just take two very straight 2 or 3 ft pieces of channel iron. Drill and bolt one to the trans (or transfer case) and one to the diff u-joint flange.
Spin both flanges so the rods are parallel then measure the end to end difference and turn the trans or tc left or right slightly to get that trans mounting point orientation spot. Any good tape measure will work ok. Then spin both flanges so the channel irons are vertical and measure them end to end. Shim the axle until those two readings are exactly the same. This will give you excellent results without using any angle finder reader. Just make sure the distance from the ground to the axle flange is different than the distance of the trans or tc flange is to the ground. Higher or lower does not matter but they must be different (not on the same plane) otherwise you will quickly destroy the u-joints. Words of wisdom from someone not a mechanic but doing this stuff all his life.
great video got to make sure you greese them slip joints quite often i do mine every oil change at 10k miles
Best Video for this topic I have seen!
Can you make a video showing installing new rear adjustable on a tj? I need to install new ones and am unsure how to go about it while setting the right pinion angle.
Great knowledge! Thank you!
Ahh I see where you have found inspiration 😁👍 love your channel Mr. Brad!! I actually just picked up a '13 JKU! You may or may not have helped influence me to do so! 🤣👍
You should do a video on swapping in an 8.8 and setting up the pinion angle with a front DS used in the back :D That's my next mod and looking to hopefully do it all without using shims or longer shackles (which also change the angle).
Hey Mat, as much as 4 degrees might be a little much. However I've noticed on almost all street vehicles there is a slight misalignment at factory ride hight.
I also run adams front and rear driveshafts. Excellent customer service!
Can you please do some question answer session. It would be awesome if you enlighten us with some jeep common mechanical issues. Thank you
I'm runnin' Adams driveshafts in my TJ! I came here from MADRAM11
Hey Matt I got a question, I hear a lot of people say ideally the pinion angle should be 2-3 degrees below the angle of the driveshaft on a double cardan shaft. But what is the max tolerable angle you can run?
So with my Wrangler on the ground having a SYE my rear pinion angle should be pointing directly at it with zero degree offset up or down?
The reason you would need to find the angle of the pinion, or the angle of the t-case is to ensure they are both Parallel (in the case where you are not running cardigan joints). As you know, setting the incorrect angle will cause more force to be applied to one of the u joints than the other. And in my case, I have a swapped engine, causing the transfer case to slope slightly, when I set my pinion angle (w/o cardigan) I needed to know the angle of the output and pinion to make sure they were parallel and to prevent this problem.
"cardigan" lol
This is an excellent description. Thanks.
thanks Kevin!
sweet! thanks! it always makes it easier to u understand after seeing and hearing it.
thanks for your videos!! I have a problem with the swap I am doing. It is a 5.3 ls engine and a 4L60 gearbox. my platform is a Jeep CJ The transfer case is an NP 208. The front outlet of the transfer appears to be pointing up as does the front differential. These angles are not parallel. Can the shims be used to direct the differential output downward?
Doesn't the cardan split the angle between the two u joints? Original single was running at 30 deg. , add the cardan, now each of those two is running at 15 deg.?
roger that. lol
Yes
When setting pinion angle don't go too extreme. you can have the axle rotated at too high of an angle and starve the pinion bearings of oil and shell them out. just a heads up.
Thanks for the tips👍
I bought adams and they are great.
This video is pretty old but maybe you'll still be able to answer this for me. On the front which is more important? Pinion angle or caster? Or spilt the difference
You need both to be correct. But I'd say caster
Awesome and helpful video man, cheers!
Do you recommend Adam's driveshafts over Tom Woods?
That's my question!
I run Adam's I have buddies that run Tom Woods no difference both great companies to work with
hi, I appreciate the video. It's nice when someone can just teach and talk normally without hype or annoying music.
However, aren't those new drive shafts assembled incorrectly or upside down? If the double cardon is up high at the transfer case, shouldn't that be where the slip joint should be also? With the slip joint lower at the diff the slip joint is more exposed to water, mud and dirt and with the female part of the slip joint pointing somewhat upward, water that gets in cannot drain out.
Just some questions because I'm no mechanic and I'm watching these videos to learn. Thank you.
madram11 sent me, great how to videos. thanks for introducing me to adams driveshafts. i need new shafts for my LJ.
Nice video, I'm trying my best to take a nice video of our drive shaft.
Great video
Bleepinjeep Hey Matt I recently put a tom woods driveshaft in my Cherokee but seems to be just hair to short but I did get it installed just a pain in the a** and I would love to go with Adams after watching this because of how much travel in the slip their is and what would be the best way to keep the splines greased
Mine has a zerk fitting for a regular grease gun
hello friend of jeeps
so my problem is im not
trying to buy a new shaft
rear 93 xj with sye installed
my question is what other
trucks and SUVs in the junkyard
will have the what i need?
oh you rock
How do you measure the double joint? stick the angle finder on the drive line and again on the pumpkin.
Quick question, is the double carbon I think you call it driveshaft offroad reliable? I was told that because of those multiple joints it could break easier from stress when off roading
Is this only for the rear? I have a JKUR with a 6” RC and a vibration at 55. Local shops in Knoxville are kinda giving me the run around. Any advice is appreciated also I love my freedom winch line
Was thinking to myself "I'm going to comment and mention the major Mr. Roger vibes I'm getting" then I immediately see the first comment mentioning the same 🤣👍
I like that axle truss. Whats the link for that?
I'm running an Adams and a teraflex sye. I'm still confused a little. so for me the rear pinion has to be pointing at the t-case and that's it not like a stock set up where they have to match the angle or is there some crazy math involved? I never new that the Adams was marked to line up like that. good info I should double check that since it fell out once when I was replacing the u joint. want expecting that lol. I love watching your vids. you have helped me a lot over the years.
With a single u joint driveshaft the two angle must be the same, if not the driveshaft will actually wobble on its axis which will make vibrations. Think of the u joints and how they rotate, that’s also why the are timed or clocked a certain way.
The rear pinion with a SYE and CV driveshaft points AT the CASE.
The front CANNOT point at the case because when you rotate the front pinion UP, it rotates the steering knuckles DOWN. So up front you cannot point the pinion at the case, unless you cut off your knuckles and weld them back on at the proper castor angle.
Can u do a video on how to measure lift on jeeps. Its seems everyone has a different method that is not clear. Thanks
Measure to the body somewhere to the floor before lifting. Measure to the same spot after lifting!
Hi Matt. If I am switching from a 2 joint shaft to a CV, you mention turning the pinion up to point and the TC. Do you do this by eye or does it need to be at a specific angle??
Will Adams 1310 work fine for medium wheeling on 35s
Here's a stupid question. How critical is the length measurement when ordering a replacement drive shaft (known dimensions) especially if the new drive shaft has a telescoping slip of 4 "?
where do you measure from. do I measure from my transfer case flange to rear cardan ?..
Great video, I have a question I recently had a 12" inch BulletProof Suspension kit professionally installed on my 2015 Toyota Tacoma 2wd. along with 37x13.50x22 tires on 22x14 wheels. I notice when driving there's a chattering sound that appears to be coming from the center area underneath the truck maybe the driveshaft. So I was wondering would a one piece driveshaft correct this problem if the chattering is indeed the driveshaft? Your opinion/help is much appreciated.
GREAT VIDOE MATT I HAVE A QUESTION IAM GETTING A 4.5 ROUGHT COUNTRY LIFT. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW OTHER THEN THE LIFTKIT WHAT OTHER PARTS WOULD NEED TO UPGRADE ON MY XJ
I would watch the zombie build, or maybe the hope floats build playlists.
5:42 I don't understand how a double cardan driveshaft can be out of phase. Isn't the purpose of the double cardan unit to take care of the phasing and keep the shaft spinning at a consistent RPM (hence the nickname constant velocity driveshaft). I'd guess that the match marks are there to keep the welded on balance weights in the right position.
So what's the comparison between these and a CV shaft aside from the coupling- are these stronger or what
This is a CV driveshaft.
Its odd most the vehicles I've owned (with rear wheel drive) have had a driveshaft with single U-joints on each end at a angle of about 10-15 degrees (i.e. the pinion is level with the ground and the driveshaft goes up at 10 to 15 degrees to meet the transfer case.) But this video isn't the only place that says you need 30 degrees to run the U-joints properly... My current vehicle I believe is about 25 to 30 degrees for the rear drive shaft (wich is huge btw, probably one of the longest single driveshafts you'll ever see on a 1/2 ton) and the front axle is mounted from a fixed transfer case to a fixed differential via double cardan set up (still to factory specs) into CV axles that are at 22 degrees of angle. Anywho.. my whole point is I think I have it all correct. But its still confusing lol (no odd noises or skipping occur) again rear shaft 25-30 degrees, front cv shafts at 22 degrees.
My xj is 2wd so i lift it 3 inch and a vibration was dwveloped, so i want to hear your advise, can i only turn the rear axle up where the shaft engages to change the angle of the diferential? And delete the vibration?
Good video... my question is I have a lot vibration after installing 4” rough country lift kit.... I done 2 alignment rebalance the tires.... the vibration still there ...
Pedro Blas it is often recommended to get a Slip yoke eliminator at 4+ inch lift
It could be pinion angle or it could be the driveshaft isn't balanced.
You're amazing! 😁 thanks for the upload
Hi Matt.... what was your coupon code @ Adam's for their shaft??? I lost it..... thank you bro .. you are the man bro
bleepinjeep.com/discounts
Hi I have a question why is the splined slip joint on the tail shaft longer and thicker than the front shaft slip, (the front you cannot see the splines) thanks!
So my cj5 has a 4.2 straight six, T4 garbage sack, and a Dana 300 transfer case. Like any rational person I want to swap in an ax15 trans. But the trans is so long that even with a S.Y.E. on the D300 my angle would be too tight for the rear drive shaft. Some rumor a CV shaft would fix it, but I don't plan on playing those games. It looks like my only 5 speed option is a T5, but that's not touching my baby anytime soon. It looks like my best option is an SM465 transmission. You think one of these fancy driveshafts and some shims under the rear leaf springs would let me squeeze in an AX15?
Hey Matt so if you're welding a truss on and plan on doing a 4 link suspension does it matter where the truss sits on the axle? or is just flat on top?
You make me want to do things to my Explore and I use it as the family minivan lol
MCFuckersGarage Your picture is a full-size Jeep speedo, somewhere ‘68-‘72 if I had to guess. Nice
Hi Matt, thank you buddy!
What if you need to measure the lift as is before you put a lift on ?
I set up my pinion angle myself (DC drive shaft and ford 8.8 rear) and used an angle finder. Although i didnt really know what i was doing to well. I just tried to aim it towards the sye yoke. Im driving now and i have no vibes at least up to 50mph because i haven't hit the highway yet. Does this mean i did everything ok if i have no problems.
How’d it go?
Question. If you are changing the pinion angle on the front axle wouldn't that change your castor? So how to you get the right castor and pinion angle on your front axle?
jared collins take it in for an alignment...lol
Generally you can't have both. Pinion angle trumps castor. But most find that a compromise, somewhere in between, there's a nice spot.
Jared Collins, to get your pinion and caster at optimal angles you'd need an aftermarket axle housing that has that angle built into it. That's the simplest and surest way of achieving it. Another way is to cut your knuckles off and reweld them at proper angles, but who would wanna do that.
just put a 4” short arm lift kit on my 2004 tj rubicon. i dont have the sye problem but do i need double cardon drive shafts? there pricey. as of right now i dont see a problem but i dont want to create one either. suggestions? thx
If I have a super short drive shaft (18”) what would be good joint section to use.
Hi Matt,
My Jeep tj has movement in the part that slides. If I grab it with my hand I can move it up and down. Is this normal?
Thanks.
What size CV shafts are those? 1350?
Nice Shafts
Hello.
Can u help me, please? I didn't undestand. When i use driveshaft with double cardan(like u new), what pinion angle do i need? Such as transfer case angle?
My transfer case angle = 7
My pinion angle = 12
But i have driveshaft with double cardan.
Thank you, and sorry for my english
what about front and rear double cardan's on drive shafts ? over kill ?
Do you mean on the front axle and rear axle? If so then yes, that’s pretty standard.
I'm having trouble with my 96 XJ it runs just fine but when I shut it off it won't start again for hours. Motor still cranks but no fire. Things I've checked and or replaced (engine temp sensor, distributor assembly, dis cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter are good, good fuel pressure) I've been told it could be a "heat soak" problem which I've personally never heard of but could u do a video of replacing injectors with ones from a dodge neon. That's what I've heard works best but I'm still unforsure
a buddy had this problem for a long time. he always thought it was heat sink... turns out it was the fuel pump... had something to do with fuel pressure.
+BleepinJeep thanks I replaced the ignition coil hoping that was the problem n it wasn't so I'll do fuel pump n filter next. Btw love the videos I'd love to see more projects n see the scorpion out on the trial
yall should do a video for fuel cells
ruclips.net/video/VBUuZloALsE/видео.html
+BleepinJeep thanks! I've seen most of yall's videos lol not sure how I missed it
Where you purchase those driveshaft
Your second whiteboard drawing - the two angles are 15 deg each, not 30 deg. Which is why the double cardan is bitchin'. The other 30 deg is the pumpkin angle. Correct me if I'm wrong....correct yourself if I'm right. ;)
slip yoke eliminateor for CV style
cherokee xj 2.5 rear drive shaft
No 38 inches?
Matt can they make them with CV style
Does it matter if you change differential gears?
Gears have nothing to do with pinion angle.
I need both driveshafts? price?
Hey Matt what kind of paint did you use on that axle?
TSC black gloss tractor paint
I always said adam has a real nice shaft. I prefer toms shaft it's a little vieny er &shit
i bought a 2001 Jeep Cherokee sport 10 years ago. It had a new 2" lift on it. I drove it for 10 years, then a bad vibration started. Its horrible. A Jeep mechanic says I need a SYE and Double Cardan drive shaft to fix it. Is this common? Does a vibration just come out of nowhere 10 years after a lift was installed?
If it was fine before, then that's not the issue, watch my two videos on death wobble, it will be in there.
thanks man, i will
the Adam shafts r standard stuff NOW & should b from factory on jeeps/trucks 2/2/2021' every1 is using these type shafts after market.
Hello, help me please, I want to mount a XJ 2.5 Diesel front shaft on my CJ7 with dana 300 and dana30
front output yoke ZJ fit on front output dana 300?
www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/cheap-double-cardan-drive-shaft-14450/
What type of paint did you use on that axle?
TSC tractor paint gloss black with a brush
Matt I know you used to show budget friendly stuff (the "bastard" pack rear leaf lift ) but you didn't mention anything about using a stock front shaft on the rear with an sye ? why not?
Sure it can be done if you have the right length but the last year of the XJ was 2001 so any stock shaft is going to be at least 16 years old by now and most are questionable... not to mention most junkyards bend the shafts when they move the jeeps around with the forklift.
Yep that's how mine was done. a shaft from a 4.0 aw4 jeep does nice. Of course with a monster like yours I would want a better shaft anyways but for my 4.5" on 33"s it's more than strong enough.
Queso Bob plus its cheaper and if it breaks then u can get a better 1, nosense to spend more then need be , alot of builds r overkill in cost and strength compared to actuall use it will get
i bought a adams driveshaft for my jeep wrangler after i bought the sye and god f...cken dam its a 1nch to long what is my best and chepest way to go about it any ideas
I subscribed to rough country
Do you know a company or anyone that can shave down a Dana 44 from a Ford to fit a zj using stock zj brakes and knuckles
I didn't even know u could shave an axle
can i switch out my 2 pc drive shaft for one pc drive shaft on my dodge pick up ?
Abel Cerrillo Depends on the length you need. I did a auto trans to manual trans swap I my 84 f250. The driveshaft that came with the manual from the donor truck was two piece, but it was shot. Had a shop custom make a single shaft. I believe they said the longest they could go was 76-78". They made mine out of aluminum, and they had to make it 6" thick to compensate to make it strong enough not to twist, it's pretty insane, even if it cost $850
It's a 2piece for a reason, the lenght
I like your videos very much. And I hear you and your colleagues ask us, the viewers, to give you thumbs up, checking your links and join your here on RUclips. When we do that, it gives you a lot of advantages, that is also ok, because you make the videos. But then, I also think that you have obligations to answer every single question we ask you. It must go both ways. Please think of that.
How would you correct your caster angle after turning your pinion up like that? I’m swapping a Dana 60 to the front of my tj, and trying to figure it this is going to be a problem or not. Thanks
Well if its really bad then offset balljoints or rewelding the C's.
more scorpion crawler
Can i us drievshaft center ????
eta on the finished crawler?
ASAP
+BleepinJeep too real
u~ jont phaizing,,, you used hand motion to discribe,, that,? it should be both ends drive shaft u joints same posision , ( clocked the same ), pinion angle ( single ) should match same degree as out put trans case, yes ?
Don't you wan ta boot over the splined, slip joint area?
Adam's doesn't do the boot but Tom Woods driveshafts has that as an option. I'm not sure if you can get a boot for the Adam's or not. Haven't looked. I just grease it after any water fording or 4500 miles with the oil changes and chassis lube work.
Looks more like a gourd than a pumpkin to me.
I thought this was a good video. I have most of the parts to add the Dana 60's, and NP205 case to my W150 Powerwagon. Making a half ton drive train into a one ton. Don't understand all the thumbs down.