Top video. After fecking my way through doing some of this kind of work myself I can add a couple of extra tips. 1.Make sure your bucket is really clean before each new batch or it will set quicker than you get it on the wall. 2. If you have a chase to fill, start from the bottom. It’s a lot more forgiving if you make it a little too wet. 3. If you have some bad brickwork, grab some mortar mix and point up as much as you can behind before you bond. 4. It’s better to mix a bit more than you need than not mix enough because everything has to be clean for a new batch. 5. I use BAL surface primer instead of PVA and I also put a small amount in the plaster. Makes it more workable and sticks like **it to a blanket 😜
One of the best instructional videos I've seen. Your presentation is clear and practical providing relevant information in simple terms that doesn't talk down or patronise watchers. Advise was helpful. Top video presentation, you got it right. Thanks.
Great video, I used this stuff for behind insulated plasterboard on solid lintels that were previously kangoed away(plenty of lintel left for structural strength) but it when off and set it in about 20mins but took weeks to completely dry!... Probably not the stuff to use!
Hi great video, regarding the preparation for drywall, I would like to remove the all plaster up to the bricks, but there is a plug socket, how can I remove safely without damaging the cables?
Love the videos. I tried my first bit of plastering (well, fixing a mess when ripping an old fireplace out) and i put pva on (1:1 though, miss-remembered) and mixed some bonding coat up, did about 15x too much and by the time i went into the living room it had set, so i mixed it back uip with water (alarm bells ringing) got it back to a nice consistency. Plastered over it all, looked lovely for a first time, this morning, it's not adhered at all. Turns out thats and old bag of bonding coat, is that why it's not worked at all? Cheers for the help so far!!
Hi, thank you for your video very usefull, I have removed a sliding door and I ended with this the support metal on the top and cut bricks on the side, how can I plaster that
You can use contact adhesive to attach plasterboard to the metal possibly. As for bricks, you can use plasterboard adhesive to dot and dab the plasterboard to the brick. Then plaster over the plasterboard. I have a vid on how to dot and dab here - ruclips.net/video/EVOgTrg97NU/видео.html
You can sometimes save a bit of delaminated plaster by getting some PVA in the gap behind. Not ideal but i have done this at home and it was rock solid after a few days. Only problem is getting it in which you can do using gravity if possible or by drilling a few select holes and pumping the PVA in behind. Can be a bit messy but can slso save a lot of re-plastering. As I say, it is not a perfect approach but can and does work. If all else fails, you've got to knock it off and get a plasterer or DIY.
Brilliant video, thanks so much! About to tackle some very old walls around a fireplace and this has been, by far, the easiest and most straight forward instructions I've come across. I'm using stop bead up the front sides of the fireplace (as keeping the brick inside exposed) by any chance do you have a suggestion for plastering neatly around the arched top of the fireplace? Thanks!
I did exactly the same around my wood burner. Depending on how steep your arch is, I used thin coat plaster bead (the mesh type, not solid), snipped some of the mesh out every few inches but keeping the bead in one piece, this allowed me to flex it into a curve the shape of my arch. You can then stick this in place with a few blobs of grab adhesive, or cement render. Let that dry in place then hopefully you have a perfect curve bead to render or plaster up to. If you're leaving it brick inside you could try it with stop bead. They also do plastic beads now which flex better. Hope that helps and best of luck with it.
Hi there, I am asking you a question because you seem to answer questions and I am in absolute shock at the minute. I have recently been given a property. A ceiling and 2 walls needed plastering. When they plastered it loads of blisters/bubbles appeared on the work they have done. I have had 3 different guys from the same company have looked at it and said they have never seen nothing like it. Now they have decided to plasterboard the walls and plaster over that. Which wasn’t really a problem in letting them do that but what I am not understanding is they have left a gap between the plasterboard and the solid wall? I believe that the reason why the plaster didn’t take to the wall in the first place is I believe the property was full of damp and mould. I can’t understand why they have left a gap and not put the plasterboard directly against the wall. Is not going to cause problems, it just doesn’t look right to me on what they are doing. If you could answer this comment I would be mighty grateful.
It's probably a method called dot and dab. They blob lumps of plasterboard adhesive on the wall to stick the board to the wall. This allows you to straighten the walls out. It's probably better if your walls are old as cold and damp is less likely to pass through the wall and the new plasterboard will allow the plaster to take nicely. I can't comment on how they did the work or the quality of the work but it is a recognised practice. I even have a video doing the same here - ruclips.net/video/EVOgTrg97NU/видео.html. Hope that helps.
Top repairs. Funny when I did similar (holes the pro's had missed) for first layer I mixed my own hardwall(?) just like a.mortar. Is there any difference from mortar? Look forward to the next one.
A cement mortar is OK, but hardwall and bonding plaster are just purpose made products that have better properties like their lighter, have less suction, mix quickly etc making them easier to work with. You also only need one product rather than a bag of sand and cement. Thanks for the comment. 👍
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Many thanks for clarifying that. I've spent a long time wondering. They were only small repairs so I didn't want a big bag LOL. Thanks again.
Is it compulsary to pva bonding before its second coat? I want to use bonding for chases and deep cracks on a wall which i would then go over with 2 coats of multifinish? Would that be correct?
You can buy products to make it hold off longer but sounds like you're mixing too thick. Use a bit less powder to water. Also, use a clean bucket and fresh water. If it's hot, it will go off quicker and maybe mix less at a time while you get used to it. Also don't use out of date plaster as it goes off quicker. Thanks for watching and best of luck.
It'll be uploaded soon but when I don't know sorry. If you want more plastering vids go to my plastering playlist, they're all there. Thanks for watching.
Hi! Can you plaster over painted brick, specifically burnt adobe brick? I'd like my walls to be smooth, but also would like to save money and do it myself.
I've just moved into my new (old ) house and stripped the wallpaper and the wall is damaged with a bit of mold from the wallpaper would I need to take it back to brick or would it be OK to plaster over it if I can the walls then pva them
If the plaster underneath is fairly sound, you can patch up holes with filler or bonding plaster, then pva, and plaster over the top. If in doubt, a good plasterer will do the full lot for you. Best of luck with it. Thanks for watching.
Very helpful video! I have formerly exterior stucco walls that were enclosed to make a room between the garage and house. (I live in a desert environment in America.) The stucco is very rough and unpleasant. After watching your video, I plan to paint on a coat of PVA, then use bonding plaster to smooth the rough granular texture in preparation for plastering (after the next PVA coat). Does this sound like it will work? Thanks much!
I don't see why not. When you say stucco you mean cement render or plaster? If its a cement render you could try mixing your own by hand and apply that? Best of luck with it, and thanks for watching.
Hi mate! Great video. I’m just going to attempt my bathroom plastering. May I ask, If I have a slight slope in the wall can I just use a multi finish plaster to straighten it out or must it be a filling plaster? Keep up the great videos mate.
Depends on depth. You should only do few mm of skim coat. If its a significant dip then I'd go bonding plaster like I did on the ceiling but if it's only a few mm difference you should be fine with multifinish. Best of luck with it!
No, just flatten the chase in this situation as I'm skimming the whole wall at a later date which covers everything, paint and chases. Hope that helps.
Another great video mate. Typical fellow Welsh lad calling the vacuum by the brand name "Hoover" haha. Also glad to hear you're doing a follow up vid. In the next vid, will you show what to do with the bonding "splash marks" for lack of better term that landed on the sound plaster work from being scraped flat?
Always a hoover! Covering the splash is just a case of plastering over. It's only thin so the skim coat easily goes over it. You'll see when I eventually get round to uploading it, probably May 2023 🤣
You don't plaster straight onto bare blocks. You can use bonding plaster all over it, then use a finishing plaster (multifinish) over the top, bit I wouldn't do that. You could also render block work with cement render, then plaster over that. Or more commonly indoors, people dot and dab plasterboard to the wall. Then plaster onto the plasterboard. I'll get you a link now.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
When I've been removing blown plaster I find it difficult to know where to stop, thanks for the information, keep up the good work. 👍
It's never an exact science. But from experience careful not to take more off than needed or you have a big job on your hands!! Thanks for watching.
Top video. After fecking my way through doing some of this kind of work myself I can add a couple of extra tips.
1.Make sure your bucket is really clean before each new batch or it will set quicker than you get it on the wall.
2. If you have a chase to fill, start from the bottom. It’s a lot more forgiving if you make it a little too wet.
3. If you have some bad brickwork, grab some mortar mix and point up as much as you can behind before you bond.
4. It’s better to mix a bit more than you need than not mix enough because everything has to be clean for a new batch.
5. I use BAL surface primer instead of PVA and I also put a small amount in the plaster. Makes it more workable and sticks like **it to a blanket 😜
Thanks for the tips 👍
Just love your videos- straight to the point and no waffle. Thanks a lot 👍
Watched your chase video and this one it gave me confidence to have a got at chasing a new plug socket, can’t thank you enough!
You are A TOP bloke. Thanks so much for sharing all the knowledge that's taken you a long time, through great effort to learn.
Thanks you. Glad to pass on some of what I have learned.
Thank you for this and all your other videos.making jobs look possible for people like me.
No problem, glad to help 👍
Greetings from Scotland thank you mate this is a life saver after lockdown and furlong I am skint this helps mate helps lots of people cheers
Glad to help you out. Thanks for watching!
One of the best instructional videos I've seen. Your presentation is clear and practical providing relevant information in simple terms that doesn't talk down or patronise watchers. Advise was helpful. Top video presentation, you got it right. Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback and the kind words. Glad you found it useful 👍
Best video on the topic i've found so far, diolch boi xox
Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching 👍
Great video, I used this stuff for behind insulated plasterboard on solid lintels that were previously kangoed away(plenty of lintel left for structural strength) but it when off and set it in about 20mins but took weeks to completely dry!... Probably not the stuff to use!
As a total novice I found a 6 inch joint knife a lot easier for chases than the larger trowel, which takes a lot more getting used to.
As long as you get it in the chase and flat that's all the really matters. Thanks for the feedback 👍
Hi great video, regarding the preparation for drywall, I would like to remove the all plaster up to the bricks, but there is a plug socket, how can I remove safely without damaging the cables?
Love the videos. I tried my first bit of plastering (well, fixing a mess when ripping an old fireplace out) and i put pva on (1:1 though, miss-remembered) and mixed some bonding coat up, did about 15x too much and by the time i went into the living room it had set, so i mixed it back uip with water (alarm bells ringing) got it back to a nice consistency. Plastered over it all, looked lovely for a first time, this morning, it's not adhered at all. Turns out thats and old bag of bonding coat, is that why it's not worked at all? Cheers for the help so far!!
Hi, thank you for your video very usefull, I have removed a sliding door and I ended with this the support metal on the top and cut bricks on the side, how can I plaster that
You can use contact adhesive to attach plasterboard to the metal possibly. As for bricks, you can use plasterboard adhesive to dot and dab the plasterboard to the brick. Then plaster over the plasterboard. I have a vid on how to dot and dab here - ruclips.net/video/EVOgTrg97NU/видео.html
Great video and very informative. Only ever don't patch plastering, spent 10 years reburbing sash windows.
I'll give you a shout if I ever need sash windows! Thanks again for watching.
Very good video again pousey. Might even have given me the confidence to get my tools out. Keep up the great videos. Tata. Farewell 👍🏻👍🏻
Give it a go! Thanks for the feedback.
You can sometimes save a bit of delaminated plaster by getting some PVA in the gap behind. Not ideal but i have done this at home and it was rock solid after a few days. Only problem is getting it in which you can do using gravity if possible or by drilling a few select holes and pumping the PVA in behind. Can be a bit messy but can slso save a lot of re-plastering. As I say, it is not a perfect approach but can and does work. If all else fails, you've got to knock it off and get a plasterer or DIY.
Combined with these tips and sticking my tongue out from a previous plastering video I should master it😜.
Great video mate.
Always tongue out! Thanks for watching 👍
Brilliant video, thanks so much! About to tackle some very old walls around a fireplace and this has been, by far, the easiest and most straight forward instructions I've come across. I'm using stop bead up the front sides of the fireplace (as keeping the brick inside exposed) by any chance do you have a suggestion for plastering neatly around the arched top of the fireplace? Thanks!
I did exactly the same around my wood burner. Depending on how steep your arch is, I used thin coat plaster bead (the mesh type, not solid), snipped some of the mesh out every few inches but keeping the bead in one piece, this allowed me to flex it into a curve the shape of my arch. You can then stick this in place with a few blobs of grab adhesive, or cement render. Let that dry in place then hopefully you have a perfect curve bead to render or plaster up to. If you're leaving it brick inside you could try it with stop bead. They also do plastic beads now which flex better. Hope that helps and best of luck with it.
Hi there,
I am asking you a question because you seem to answer questions and I am in absolute shock at the minute.
I have recently been given a property. A ceiling and 2 walls needed plastering. When they plastered it loads of blisters/bubbles appeared on the work they have done. I have had 3 different guys from the same company have looked at it and said they have never seen nothing like it. Now they have decided to plasterboard the walls and plaster over that.
Which wasn’t really a problem in letting them do that but what I am not understanding is they have left a gap between the plasterboard and the solid wall?
I believe that the reason why the plaster didn’t take to the wall in the first place is I believe the property was full of damp and mould.
I can’t understand why they have left a gap and not put the plasterboard directly against the wall.
Is not going to cause problems, it just doesn’t look right to me on what they are doing.
If you could answer this comment I would be mighty grateful.
It's probably a method called dot and dab. They blob lumps of plasterboard adhesive on the wall to stick the board to the wall. This allows you to straighten the walls out. It's probably better if your walls are old as cold and damp is less likely to pass through the wall and the new plasterboard will allow the plaster to take nicely. I can't comment on how they did the work or the quality of the work but it is a recognised practice. I even have a video doing the same here - ruclips.net/video/EVOgTrg97NU/видео.html. Hope that helps.
Top repairs. Funny when I did similar (holes the pro's had missed) for first layer I mixed my own hardwall(?) just like a.mortar. Is there any difference from mortar? Look forward to the next one.
A cement mortar is OK, but hardwall and bonding plaster are just purpose made products that have better properties like their lighter, have less suction, mix quickly etc making them easier to work with. You also only need one product rather than a bag of sand and cement. Thanks for the comment. 👍
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Many thanks for clarifying that. I've spent a long time wondering. They were only small repairs so I didn't want a big bag LOL. Thanks again.
Well explained. New subscriber Keep posting dude👍
Another great little video. Thank you
Any comments on PVA vs SBR for plastering prep?
Is it compulsary to pva bonding before its second coat? I want to use bonding for chases and deep cracks on a wall which i would then go over with 2 coats of multifinish? Would that be correct?
When i use bonding plaster after 2 minutes the mixing bucket is as solid as a brick. How can i make it not go off so quick
You can buy products to make it hold off longer but sounds like you're mixing too thick. Use a bit less powder to water. Also, use a clean bucket and fresh water. If it's hot, it will go off quicker and maybe mix less at a time while you get used to it. Also don't use out of date plaster as it goes off quicker. Thanks for watching and best of luck.
Great video mate! is you plastering the wall video going to follow up?
It'll be uploaded soon but when I don't know sorry. If you want more plastering vids go to my plastering playlist, they're all there. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE nice one mate. do you have any doors to hang? that would make a good video
Hi! Can you plaster over painted brick, specifically burnt adobe brick? I'd like my walls to be smooth, but also would like to save money and do it myself.
Brilliant, thanks for explaining, very useful and educational.
Thanks for the feedback Sean. 👍
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE explain s why some of our diy fixes just don't stick or cut it :)
I've just moved into my new (old ) house and stripped the wallpaper and the wall is damaged with a bit of mold from the wallpaper would I need to take it back to brick or would it be OK to plaster over it if I can the walls then pva them
If the plaster underneath is fairly sound, you can patch up holes with filler or bonding plaster, then pva, and plaster over the top. If in doubt, a good plasterer will do the full lot for you. Best of luck with it. Thanks for watching.
What plaster would i need to use on exposed brike work on s chimney breast?
Thanks
Very helpful video! I have formerly exterior stucco walls that were enclosed to make a room between the garage and house. (I live in a desert environment in America.) The stucco is very rough and unpleasant. After watching your video, I plan to paint on a coat of PVA, then use bonding plaster to smooth the rough granular texture in preparation for plastering (after the next PVA coat). Does this sound like it will work? Thanks much!
I don't see why not. When you say stucco you mean cement render or plaster? If its a cement render you could try mixing your own by hand and apply that? Best of luck with it, and thanks for watching.
Yes, cement render. Thank you for the fast response!
Great video pal
Hi mate! Great video. I’m just going to attempt my bathroom plastering. May I ask, If I have a slight slope in the wall can I just use a multi finish plaster to straighten it out or must it be a filling plaster? Keep up the great videos mate.
Depends on depth. You should only do few mm of skim coat. If its a significant dip then I'd go bonding plaster like I did on the ceiling but if it's only a few mm difference you should be fine with multifinish. Best of luck with it!
So you dont cut back inside the chase to finish flush, or do you skim onto the painted wall ?
No, just flatten the chase in this situation as I'm skimming the whole wall at a later date which covers everything, paint and chases. Hope that helps.
Great video Pouse.. top info 👍🏾
Thanks for the feedback.
Would you need to use PVA on plasterboard?
Not on fresh plasterboard. Try this video:
How to plaster a plasterboard wall - ruclips.net/video/N7EEVK7CzF8/видео.html
Very good information 👍
Thanks for the feedback.
Hi is it OK to plaster over paint or does it need to be removed?
Yes as long as you do a few coats of pva. Watch this, it's all explained - ruclips.net/video/d9fhFEWhvHo/видео.html
Thanks for that
PVA or SBR?
Another great video mate. Typical fellow Welsh lad calling the vacuum by the brand name "Hoover" haha. Also glad to hear you're doing a follow up vid.
In the next vid, will you show what to do with the bonding "splash marks" for lack of better term that landed on the sound plaster work from being scraped flat?
Always a hoover! Covering the splash is just a case of plastering over. It's only thin so the skim coat easily goes over it. You'll see when I eventually get round to uploading it, probably May 2023 🤣
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I’ll still be subbed then buddy 🤣👍🏼
Good vid as always 👍🏻
Thank you.
Fabulous! 👌👌👌
Glad you liked it 👍
Very useful thank you.
Legend mate thanks
Not watched the video but I’m sure it’s great. 👍
Thanks, you've wrongly put faith in me!!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I agree but in for a penny in for a pound. Plus I need something to help me sleep so will as this to to the watch list. 😍
Great channel
Thank you!
Parabéns 👏👏👏 Brazil
Your name is pouse ?
My nick name yes.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE do you have a facebook ?
@@omarnaja508 no I don't sorry. I barely have time to manage youtube!
💯👍👍
None of these guides start with bare blocks.
You don't plaster straight onto bare blocks. You can use bonding plaster all over it, then use a finishing plaster (multifinish) over the top, bit I wouldn't do that. You could also render block work with cement render, then plaster over that. Or more commonly indoors, people dot and dab plasterboard to the wall. Then plaster onto the plasterboard. I'll get you a link now.
Here's link to dot and dab video - ruclips.net/video/EVOgTrg97NU/видео.htmlsi=59Bl7T60VCx4NzWn
you don't need pva to plaster over bonding
Milky white PVA in a “ milk bottle “. Better keep the cornflakes at a good distance……
Rough as fuck lol
Yes, really dreadful! Thanks for watching.
You haven't a clue
Is this supposed to be a comedy ??
I don't know, did you find it funny?