The Easiest Way To Stop Damp For Good
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- 👇 Materials in this video 👇
Drybase TS-PLUS Tanking Slurry
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Dryzone Hi-Lime Renovation Plaster
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Drybase 3mm Plaster Membrane Mesh
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Thanks to @SafeguardEuropeLtd
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How to Stop Damp in Your Home: A Comprehensive Guide
Damp issues can wreak havoc on homes, particularly in basements and below-ground areas where moisture is most persistent. Addressing dampness effectively requires careful preparation, the right materials, and a thorough application process. This article explores proven strategies to stop damp for good, based on techniques demonstrated in the video, The Easiest Way To Stop Damp For Good.
Step 1: Preparing the Wall Surface
The first step in tackling damp is ensuring a smooth and stable surface. Applying a straightening coat of render is essential to create a flat base. This eliminates any unevenness that could compromise the adhesion of waterproofing materials. For walls with rough brickwork or paint, levelling out the surface is critical to prevent water ingress through gaps or weak points.
Step 2: Applying Polymer-Reinforced Waterproofing
A key innovation in damp-proofing is using polymer-reinforced cementitious coatings, such as Safeguard TS+. These coatings are specially designed for below-ground applications. The polymer binds the cement, prevents micro-cracking, and creates a microporous layer that repels water, allowing the wall to "breathe." This property is crucial for managing trapped moisture and reducing the risk of future damp issues.
The application involves two coats, with 2 to 4 hours of drying between each coat. The colour change from blue to brown indicates readiness for the second coat, ensuring complete coverage and long-term protection.
Step 3: Choosing Advanced Solutions for Severe Cases
In cases of significant water penetration, membrane systems offer an alternative to tanking slurries. These systems create a cavity behind the membrane for moisture to drain into a channel, which can be pumped out. This approach is ideal for basements facing persistent or high-volume water intrusion.
Step 4: Using Breathable Materials for Finishing
For finishing, high lime plaster is an excellent choice. Its breathability allows it to absorb and release condensation, acting as a buffer for moisture. This makes it particularly suitable for damp-prone areas. Additionally, it resists salt ingress, preventing surface deterioration.
Effective damp-proofing requires careful preparation, advanced materials, and the right techniques. Whether using tanking slurries, membrane systems, or breathable plasters, each method addresses specific challenges. Following these steps, homeowners can safeguard their properties and ensure a dry, durable living space.
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Roger, my flat has got a basement which has been completely stressing me out - but the tips you've shared here, and on other videos, have done a lot to help me figure out the steps on how to move forward! Sadly can't just get straight having a sump and membrane installed as I need to add some airbrick ventilation first (and negotiate that with the freeholder - joys of flat ownership) but once that's done, I know the video and channels to refer back to!
Rog, you are a wealth of information . Thank you
I try
Interesting, thank you.
I’m not a builder but am a chemist, it does seem counterintuitive to put a fully permeable lime plaster over an impermeable tanked surface. My instinct would have been to lime plaster and clay paint and let it breathe fully. I’ve tried this on a wet conservatory wall we had and it worked a treat, but I took it back to bare brick first. 5 years later and it’s still perfect.
I think sometimes that being a chemist blinkers your thinking. It is more helpful to think like a builder in these cases.
We don't want water vapour coming in from the outisde because the ground will never be dry so it makes no sense to have a pathway for damp into the building wherther it be vapour or droplets.
The idea of lime is simply that cellars suffer from condensation especially in the summer and a gypsum plaster will deteriorate.
It is also the case that if any tiny amount of moisture came through the membrane (unlikely) the lime plaster would allow it to evaporate and you wouldm't even detect it.
The additional advantage of lime is the buffer effect it provides for condensation.
It is also warmer to the touch than gypsum.
@ Agree that I’m not a builder and you know what you are doing, but from a water diffusion gradient it does feel like putting wet washing in a plastic bag and expecting it to dry.
It's a basement, not a conservatory. The outside wall is rain soaked wet mud. Will never be dry. Also need a good mechanical ventilation system..
@ wouldn’t it make more sense to tank the outside that is in contact with the source of the water, rather than stopping it once it is already in the mortar? Then, to let any remaining water to evaporate out into the basement and mechanically ventilate.
I once had a house that was built into a steep bank (it was brilliant as it kept warm in the winter and cool in the summer), that was tanked from the outside and had drainage, we never had damp walls.
@@yp77738yp77739 i don't know if you're being serious. Yes it would be better. It would be better to live in Marbella in a £10 million villa.
The point is that this is already built and he is trying to find a solution "after" it has been built.
Your not seriously asking him to drive a moat around the property to tank the basement.
Nice demonstration and it was good to hear mention of the membrane option as this is fully effect as a barrier and also tends to keep the surface temperature above dew point which is a bonus. You can even apply thermal wall board of the membrane and in doing so save energy as well. Always prudent to consider all the available options of course.
Great point!
Roger, national treasure :) hope there are more history lessons on the way!.
Roger I used that stuff in a very bad condensate and dumped wall with that brilliant stuff couple of years ago I back to the property ro do another job and I can tell you its absolutely fantastic.
As usual simply brilliant legend💪💪💪
Thanks for sharing
I have used to brilliant
Used to paint on two coats scud render cement skim paint a few inches out on floor
Nice job Roger 👌🏼🧱👍🏽
My house is 200 years old. I have loads of Salt Peter coming out blowing the new render off. I`m sure it was cement when the house was damp course treated. It`s got a slate damp course. Well I`ll be trying the lime mortar for a change. Looking forward to it. Never used it before.
We have lime plaster but still penetrative damp in some areas. Stormdry very successful so far.
Its similar to a tanking slurry. We used dome tanking slurry on our basement a few years ago. In some places we had to apply a couple of other coats to properly waterproof the whole room.
Another fascinating insight and a top notch job as always. I bet the paint's going to dry lovely on that! Merry Christmas .......
The job is done and it looks great, you can't see the join
Right said Fred,that wall have to come down🧱🎵 with it all down then we went home.,like going to College,no Ice in the Bucket.
If kirk sayes do it his way, Then do it his way it will work!!!!!
Roger has been checking his stats for most trolling/indignation - Plastering and damp proofing. So what better than a video combining the two....lol. Cher-ching.
Great video Roger very informative.
looks like you were struggling a bit with that lime 😉 my tip is not to use metal tools on lime plaster - i use a piece of lumber a bit bigger than a steel float with the corners cut away to form a handle , you will find that it doesn't bring water to the surface and drags a lot less, small circular random massaging type movements really help too
I will try that, maybe a plastic trowel or float
@@SkillBuilder its got to be wood Roger - any old bit of construction timber will do
- good luck
Great video Roger
I cured a damp problem on a very. Old brick house dampness was rising and perishing the lime plaster. We took the old plaster off the wall cleaned the brick as best we could. Going back 30 years. We did not have the products available, now. I got some water based black rubberized liquid. Roofers where using it to coat slate roofs with a fiberglass membrane, Not a good idea, stopped slates slipping but roof could not breath, they don't do this any longer, painted it on throw sand on while still wet course building sand and let dry, once dry sand and cement scratch coat they later float finnish and skim, great job cured problem. still good today,
Did the wall have an original DPC?
@@vistron888 it may have had a slate dcp. I can't. Remember. It had a brick footing built directly. On sand. I remember. Digging in my father's garden . The ground was all sand, but if you went down about 2 foot you needed a pick the sand was so hard and compacted. Slate doc was common in the area. As slate was locally mined and used for roofing.
@@tidyjob1 I'm not a tradesman but ss a DIYer and renovator that has worked on various properties, which all had DPCs, the root to any rising damp was always the ground outside being built too high. Hence bridging it. While you can stop the interior render spoiling by various methods of sealing the water, if you have the typical timber floor with the void, the water builds up in the ground below. Making the air under their very dewy affecting home heating and the floors.
My experience is in London though and we are largely sat on clay. Other parts of the country are on whatever else so that can make a difference.
@@vistron888 The house I was working on would. Have had no dams course under the floor although they had nice tiles in the passageway, but no damp proof under the solid floors. the front rooms often had timber floors on vented sleeper walls with a slate as dpc under the floor joist, with slate flag stones as a floor, in kitchen and scullery areas, the area that we repaired probably had dampness coming in overtime from a damp outside area, the wall where of lime plaster and either sucked the moisture up either from the floor or maybe the old bricks had become more like blotting paper,
whatever Roger does is always interesting to watch
Great video thanks
Excellent. Thank you. I am renovating an ancient barn and the basement walls are old stone and some sort of lime. there are big gaps - especially now after a bit of sand blasting to remove all the loose stuff. should i just prep the wall by building up the lime render in several coats to build up to a flat surface, or is there and better way to prep the surface before the Tanking Slurry?
Next time try Dryzone Renderguard Gold in the scratch coat, it's waterproofer and salt inhibitor.
I did in in a basement 5 years ago and it still doesn't smell down there
wow boss you are doing amazing jobs, boss i do solve the same problems in my country and i really like to meet you one day for more skill. Isaac from ghana
Thank you : )
Just bought a house that has an inspection pit in the garage. Said pit has a quantity of water present. Not full, but significant. Do you think that this system, applied to the floor and the walls would keep the water out?
These are great videos - very informative and really well produced.
I think it is very likely to work. If the water is coming up from the ground it means the whole thing has to be tanked but if it is coming through the walls you could leave in a floor drain
As an engineer I always overthink things….I get that the polymer stops the damp from entering the room, but what stops the first normal plaster/render layer against the original stonework from separating due to the ever present damp from being underground? Or does it remain bonded to damp stone? Could the hydrostatic pressure ‘pop’ the plaster off a deeper wall? 🤯
Hi Roger just wondered if you new anything about precast houses my sister is having many damp problems, because precast sections have metal in the concrete section would this stay cold so when you put the heating on in the house it causes condensation on the walls inside the house, if so would exterior wall insulation stop the damp or am I flogging a dead horse. Item 3 she has a warm air heating in her house, does this type of heat retain water in air spreading through the house ? Is this type of heating know for producing condensation in the home. Your thoughts would be much appreciated thanks Tony
,,
Great video and well explained and nice finish thanks.
Can you recommend anyone, I can send some photos to, to show my internal damp issue under my front window. Just so I know what I am dealing with. so I can look to get it sorted. Thanks
If you can give a wide open escape route for water on the other side, I would just put RIW bitumen over the wall and down to the dpc. Impermeable, as I want the moisture to go out. My concern is always with water rising above the RIW if there is no route out. Where I have concrete tanks I use a cement and PVA mix and give it all a good rubbing to fill all pinholes, which usually reduces leakage substantially, followed up by a cementiois tanking product. So I was interested to see your thinking on this.
Roger what paint would you recommend and when to put it on.
Great job!
Well done for your service to the next generation. You should be getting a knighthood if people in high office truly valued their subjects.
Thanks for sharing 🙏
I use clay paint good stuff 😊
Hi Roger, I have a damp proof job up in Burnley, does your team cover the area?
Great troweling skills Roger the bodger
Have you heard the adage? If you haven’t got anything nice to say say nothing at all.
csharpe
I think that these videos provide therapy for some plasterers so I am happy to see them realeasing their anger in a safe space.
At my age I am never going to develop my skills to the point where haters stop hating but then again I don't have to earn a living at it or anything else for that matter.
Will you go back next winter to prove that this has indeed worked and hasn't just pushed damp upwards, created a very cold condensating wall and deteriated the masonry beneath?
You are not just asking a question, you are loading it with a prediction but I am happy to do that and I hope you willl be watching. As for the cold wall, the lime plaster is the best thing for that because it is warmer to the touch and absorbs moisture which is will then release again as the wall warms up. This has been in use for thousands of years.
Why would the masonry deteriorate faster? It has been wet for 200 years and brick below ground is perfectly o.k if it is wet. That is why it is still used in footings.
As for 'pushing damp upwards, the 'push is not' water pressure it is evaporation and it may well be that a line appears on that join. If that happens I will have to hack off the wall above it and continue the membrane but let's see what happens after one winter and one summer.
Have used tanking slurry a few times it worked well
I hope I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure you've made a mistake in your approach to this. You've decided on a vapour open tanking slurry but you also used SBR, which is a vapour barrier, preventing the moisture already in the wall from evaporating through the tanking slurry as it was designed to do. The cement render is also not adequately permeable enough, would have been better if you'd used lime. There's a vapour open lime plaster called Rinzaffo MGN that acts as a tanking slurry and is ideal for basements. You may have not even needed the Dryzone TS plus, though they do make some good products.
I have a ceiler which is damp, I had it Tanked a few years ago, it is still damp, would be nice if you could come and give me some advice, have a look. I am in Leicester. 😊Thanks
Brilliant job Roger, really impressed with your plastering skills, cracking job!
I get the job done but I have a poor technique. Plasterers hate me and don't shy away from telling me that I will never be a member of their cabal.
I'm a plasterer and I think its a cracking job for what its worth!
Goo shift 👍😊
Before you put the slurry on you went over the wall with something, was it just water?? Was this to make sure the slurry didn't dry too quickly, or maybe to clean off the dust??
yes just to damp it down
It was hot in the room, from the underfloor heating 👍
Thank you very much! Do you think you could explain your comment about Gypsum 9:01 please?
HI
Gypsum will break down in damp conditions and basements are prone to condensation in the summer when warm moist air condenses on the colder walls. Lime will give you a buffer.
wont stop condensation forming on wall surface though , if wall is not insulated properly
You are correct but the humidity levels in the room are much lower because of the underfloor heating and the Limelight plaster is a better insulator and absorbs a certain amount of condensation and realeases it as the wall warms up. Nothing it idea but it is way better than what was there.
Do you have a long time to work with these high lime renovation plasters, like traditional lime plasters?
yes it is the same, you can bring them back the next day.
@ thanks. I’ve been doing this exact sort of work on one side of my cottage, which is effectively built into a hillside. There’s a lot of naysayers regarding tanking, but as you say, what else can you do. I put a French drain in one shallower area but tanking the walls inside is essential. Not come across this polymer based stuff though, hopefully the water based will suffice. I’ve built studs in front of a couple of walls but will try renovation plaster on the others.
Taken me months! On the plus side I can see the tanking has worked.
That is good to know. The Limelite isn't cheap but it works.
What are the similar products made by other manufactures? It would be interesting to compare prices.
None of these products are cheap but the good ones work. The cost is in the labour so I wouldn't be chasing a cheap deal to save youirself £10 per bag.
I am actually researching how to sort out my garage walls and came across this video. I live by the coast, it's wet and windy, I will do a dump-proof membrane and cover the floor with rubber tiles, but I need to do something to the brick walls since it's a thin layer and I am afraid that anything I will store in the garage, especially some electronic stuff, will go bad quickly. Do you have any suggestions, Roger?
Have uou tri3d painting the walls on yhe outside? I'd use stormdry max cream and work it into the wall. Roger has used that before. Ita breathable and water beads on it. I painted some coping stones and the effect is mental.
@@klaeLIFE I haven't yet, I thought that it's best to wait till spring for that so that I don't apply on wet bricks.
excellent again roger,thank you
So is there a dpc at the outside ground level? How does this work?
No there is no dpc but we can put some Dry Rods in there if needed. At present all the issues are low down where you see the dark patches.
How would you tell if the wall has salts in it, am I right in thinking that there would be white deposit stains on the wall?
yes that is exactly right
Its the product I could be looking for BUT, its for two walls that are half below ground but on the corner of the two walls there is a granite rock, so not giving a "flat" surface. The walls are less than "flat either. Is that a problem with this product?
❤
If you're trying to deal with damp I'd recommend getting hold of the book "The Damp House" it's a great resource and explains a lot about the causes of damp and the variety of solutions.
Another option is "Diagnosing Damp" by Ralph Bukinshaw and Mike Parrett as these are two of the lead authorities on the subject.
@alanyoung7532 shame it's nit available on Amazon UK at present. It looks like a RICS title so, hopefully, it will still be available from the RICS book store.
@@davidquirk8097 I've ordered 'the damp house', thanks. I'm a DIYer and fancy trying Roger's approach but it's not quite a cellar, just a damp downstairs chimney breast. Someone closed off the fire with gypsum board which has broken down with the damp despite a vent in it. It's only just above the ground level The chimney doesn't exist any more so I think I should probably brick up the old fireplace and tank out the whole lot with Drybase TS Plus and lime mortar. But I'll have a look at the book first.
SBR+Cement is just as good as it's a polymer and I've done tons of lift shaft bottoms.
ruclips.net/video/ofCrcOydiSA/видео.html
This is exactly the wrong thing to do IMHO. With tanking what you have now managed to do Roger is keep the moisture in the walls so they remain wet. This makes the house cold as well as subjecting the bricks to increased degradation creating a build up which will only get worse. I'm very happy you used lime, but all you needed to do was apply lime to the bricks (no PVC etc) and increase ventilation.
This chap ain't got a clue with old houses
I live in a flat on 2nd floor. I have damp and/or mould beneath the living room (north facing) window. Where is this coming from and is it damp or condensation? What is the difference? Thank you for sharing.
Probably the window leaking or condensation running down the glass on cold nights
Condensation is when humid air hits a cold surface and condenses to water droplets. Damp usually comes from outside, either rain penetrating through the walls or ground water. Because you're on the 2nd floor I would suspect condensation or rainwater making it's way in through cracks or loose pointing
@@mrali5196 Thank you for this information it's much appreciated there are cracks in the outside windowsill.
@@feestuart2499 get them sealed up, allow the wall to dry and coat with damp proof paint.
well done roger i use tanking with all my damp proofing and its faultless never had a call back
Part of the marketing team? 😉
@@bxlbxlbxlify 🤣🤣
Always a skeptic?
@@bxlbxlbxlify no actually nob head i run my owns property company
roger i have used ka tanking for many years and its much cheaper at £22 each for 20 bought Total £440 delivered from amazon than drybase i use a cement sprayer for full houses and this combination is faultless well done to you for making this video it works never had a call back ever to date
Thanks for the video Roger. Do you think this might work in an air raid shelter? I have one in my garden and unfortunately over the years debris and mud fell into the wall cavity in post war cut window opening.. I have done my best to remove this but a good amount still remains and it's evident the wall just absorbs rain water.
It's a bit of an odd predicament as not a common scenario, the shelter is half above ground so I've likened it to a cellar so will a drain across the wall, maybe removing a couple more bricks to clear soil bridging gap, and then rendering the inner wall and using this product could do it🫠
I think it will work well.
Got this issue at home, house is circa 1830 builder put some sovereign stuff on the wall but it's come back after 5 years. The house is direct onto the pavement then the road. the builder wont honour the gaurentee so i'm in need of some tech know how.
Hi Keith
Send some pictures, inside and out to www.skill-builder.uk/send
Big problem if it's a suspected leaking pipe from neighbouring building who won't play ball
Shocking
There is something not right here, when you look on their website it says mix with water, no mention of this magic polymer liquid stuff. I rang and they confirmed this.
Also, i'm not understanding how something being 'breathable' is of use if and when the outside wall is underground? Where is it going to transfer vapour to when it's wet on the other side?
What's to stop water vapour coming from the outside in?
Dehumidifier, how do we chose one and based on what?
Just get an electric desiccant one . Compressor ones only good in warm countries .
@@arcadia1701e don't even joke like this. The compressor one is THE one to get, the efficiency is unmatched and absolutely sufficient for home use. Nothing beats turning heating on every now and then, but it makes a great complement along with airing the house. Warm countries rarely need dehumidifiers at all, unless being in Patagonia. ;)
2,50 mins in what are you putting on that wall? 4 mins in, what are you threatening that wall with? ts plus tanking slurry 1st layer at 4 mins? 9 mins in what are you slapping that poor old wall with? Is that the second layer of ts plus tanking slurry? 10 and a half minutes the plaster? what are you mixing in the buckets each time? ts plus bag and what polymer? adding water and how much? plaster and polymer?
14:16 Ok a bit sleepy here what would a limewash on a lime render do?
It is like a thick paint and closes up the gritty surface.
It's all well and good but lime plaster is supposed to breeze, your customers are going to paint that surface at some point, with tanking behind, is there a risk if moisture gets in there from above, it'll be trapped and paint starts chalking or flaking off? Good job Roger and look after your knees!
That is why I said, don't use vinyl paint. An ordinary emulsion is fine. I have never had a problem with it
I didn’t realise you could use emotion online walls that’s brilliant thanks. Some of the specialist paints are so expensive.
@@csharpe5787emulsion is just the word for many paints, you have vinyl emulsion, lime emulsion, clay emulsion. The word emulsion comes from the principle of suspending pigment particles in a water based binder, which is all paints
Is it an “acho “ drain outside ?
The correct pronunciation, not the commonly used one.
Aco drain, it ia brand name
If you don't dpm the floors with expoy it will keep goin up the walls
Roger, I'm jealous of your thick hair
Most of it is now on the barber's floor
What is the echo drain ? Please garage wall is permanently damp along one side and needs something like that
Aco Drain
@@SkillBuilder Thanks and another great video.
My company was tanking with Sika 1 render in the 80s which are still dry today.
Sika 1 is good but it won't stop salts
Yep sika tanking will last years. Used up in London vaulted banks.
Sika are the best
Would an air brick be advisable. Might be cheaper. Damp and moisture are the same thing just in different forms.
Where would the airbrick go?
Good job. £50 for a bag of lime plaster though!
Yes why not use the cheaper plaster at less than £10.00 and see it fail.
The biggest cost here is my labour and the chocolate biscuits
@ only trying to point out this isn’t cheap to fix. So anyone trying to sort it this way better be able to afford.
@@muzahmad2104 how much do you value your health though? Vacation or a new car can wait.
So, You're going to trap the damp in the wall ? maybe try and find the cause of the damp in the first place ? My cottage is damp and it's because there is excess water under the house and I've got to find out what's causing it.
Ivan
I can tell you what is causing it, rain.
This wall is below the ground. How do you propose to dry the garden out?
We showed you the Aco drain which stops water running down the wall but unless you are going to dig all the way along that wall and install a membrane and drain you are not going to do much.
If you can cure damp from the outside, do it but if not do it on the inside.
Why didn’t you open the windows before you started?
Because it was blowing the dust in not out and we wanted to keep the dust in that area and not all over the house
Great product, but only for buildings actually underground.
Not you living room that’s damp
How do you protect the window sills and lower frames? Also the idea that damp only rises a metre is one of those industry mantras with no scientific evidence. I’ve seen buildings that are not even basements where the damp is evident 2m above floor level. The drained membrane only works if you have a completely sealed system, which is very difficult to achieve, otherwise the permanent humidity behind the membrane encourages all kind of mould and fungus with long term health implications. A company like safeguard if consulted will always recommend two systems for residential basements - waterproofing slurry first then drained membrane. They will then step back and tell you to use an approved installer, who will go out of business a year after the work. In short there’s no easy DIY method for waterproofing your basement.
I agree, there should not be ANY use of synthetic near the natural materials! Dehumidifier could be the best choice..I have relative that has a house built on sloope rock on one side..uses dehumidifier 24/7 & it is always dry in the basement with no smell or damp...
Without injecting a silica dpc and including a sika waterproof mix in two coats of rener, this will not work, the liquid dpc injection should be done on both sides of the wall
You are completely wrong. You cannot waterproof a below ground wall with silicone injection. It cannot work.
You need a membrane and that is what we have here. It has worked very well and we will revisit in on one year
I was taught to put in a damp proof course to ensure the dampness does not rise.
interesting product. 👍looks like similar to Webertec.930
Erm, isn’t it a load of debris sandwiched inside the wall cavity? The house I had with troubles, it was never fixed, we spent and wasted, thousands of pounds on what is a nonsense fix - injection. The first and maybe only step I should have taken, was to either from inside or outside, remove a couple of the sandstones, or a few bricks, and reach in and claw out the gooey mess of fallen sand that a failed edging to the roof, with water ingress, had caused over decades. The stuff you spend money on, thinking you are getting a proper job done, shocking. Anyway, people who have done the brick removal/clawing-out method, and built the bricks back in, report excellent fix to the damp issues. Fact is, there’s many terraces best be knocked down in the UK. The damp smell meets you at the door, the lower floors are riddled with it, the residents and their clothing smells of it, and as a former resident of such a terraced house, I confirm the heating is impossible. The bills are huge and you can never warm the place. We need wholesale rebuilding in the UK, some housing stock is not worth saving. Just my opinion…of course, if done properly, the damp problems can be solved, but the wooden joists for floors is likely god-awfully ruined too, it just goes on and on.
There is no wall cavity. This house is 200 years old.
Smelly houses do NOT have propper ventilation! 🤷 EVERY room should have vents near the cealing, (called "mechanical ventilation", a square outage through the wall to the outside, with mesh & adjustable shutters from inside for adjustment accorðng to the season. Protective shutter in metal on the outside of the house.). Some inside walls in the rooms have vents that are connected to the pipes/canals, that are leading air out trough the roof....all to prevent mold & damp! Also important to eliminate everything near the house that makes ground damp & walls wet...all plastic/synthetic membranes are not that good, since the damp from the inside doesn't come out / never dry..use of dehumidiier is best to keep basement dry & house healthy...
And very odd behaviour that I have noticed: people turn off heating while not at home during the day, then turn it on when get home...it takes a lot of energy to warm up the house...constant warming, even at a bit lower temp's, keeps house dry all the time...
I clicked this video deliberately but RUclips flashed up a "product placement warning".
It was correct to do that
Get Kweir starmer round with his hairdryer
Yep it's a big one to go with his ego.
I see you are right handed so you work from right to left evs plasterer for 54 years
I am told that you plaster left to right but render right to left.
Damp? Use a hair dryer....Keir Starmer gave us the tip!!!
Membrane.. this is honestly the worst way i have seen to get a room dry.
so tell us how to do it rather than just chucking out negative vibes. People will like you a lot more if you break that habit and do something constructive with your time and energy. Thank me later
@SkillBuilder find the source and try to sort it, probably cheaper in the short term than the expense of the tanking and equipment plus the redecorating you will have afterwards , in a short video like this you didn't mention all the drainaige issues, perhaps you might have to build a alarmed sump/pump to warn you if it fails and you might lose some room heigh as you build in the membrane and sump in the floor and create a gap at the bottom.
Overall the membrane solution seem to me a major pain and not that reliable.
If you happen to have sockets on the wall too your going to be cutting in to the membrane too, making failure / ingress more likely.
What was the mix for render?
6 sand, 1 cement, 1 lime.
@gdfggggg he mentioned SBR, does that go in mix or painted on wall?
I painted the wall with SBR and put some in the mix.
@@TeeTee-zm2re I’m not sure how Roger has done this here. Sbr is waterproof but the lime is breathable. He may done a 50/50 water sbr mix on the bare brick, then rendered on that with sbr as a plasticiser/waterproofer mix in sand/cement, which will give a nice flat surface to tank on.
If there is any chance of moisture getting through, the top coat will let it breath.
@@SkillBuilder ahh, there you go.
How’s your knees ? 😂
Fine thanks, never better since I stopped praying
Where’s your knee protection Roger, those pads in the trousers aren’t good enough.
I have loads of knee pads in the van.
open the windows G
Roge - can we have a vid on tax evasion please.
Sbr in the render? Why not waterproofer 3_1 mix 😂😂😂 nothing coming through that,
Waterproofer is not an adhesive or binder. SBR does the job and the TS+ does the waterproofing.
That's what I did in my cellar, primed the bricks with 1:1:1 Sand Cement SBR, rendered with 5:1 S&C with SikaProof, then 2 coats of everbuild waterproof. Although I think I messed up insulating it, as I've seen some evidence of sweat (water droplets leaking at the bottom) - Perhaps should have left a cavity, or lime rendered like Roger did.
If that's a basement it should be floor to ceiling and a meter up on ground floor level.
All wrong
Yes , floor and walls tanked with radius between floor and walls to allow the correct depth.
Please do not do this you can aplay all shit on the inside but the water comes from outside and the bricks will drink upp all the ground moist. Platon karpet on the outside and the problem is gone
You are completely wrong. Go back to Ancient Rome and you will see bricks that have been below ground fot 2000 years. Once a brick is wet it is wet. It is always better to apply a membrane on the outside but it is not always possible. We live in the real world, try visiting it some time.
@@SkillBuilder The soil in Rome are different to UK wet soil and you need to hinder the moist to enter not build on a lot of layers i dont think i am wrong sorry
@@SkillBuilder ruclips.net/video/bDiT7T1x8G8/видео.html
Lime plaster over a vapour impermeable surface what a joker
It is clear from your comment that you don't understand the science. We are not lookng to encourage water from the outside to come in, which is why we damp proof it.What we want is a plaster that is moisture tolerant because basements are very prone to condensation, esepecially in the summer. That is why I said to keep gypsum out of basements. The lime plaster acts as a buffer. I hope that helps you understand. I know some of this can be challenging for people who are not technically minded.
What ever happened to Damp Sam?
Never heard of him
@SkillBuilder 😂
Lol
B
Never render to the floor, ever ever. Have injections done before any thoughts of rendering anything. Dont watch this rubbish
The real rubbish here is your comment. This floor has a membrane and the tanking meets it. To say 'never render to the floor' is just nonsense. In some cases that is exactly what you need to do. The tanking meets the membrane.
painful to watch. you can talk, i will give you that, the cost of all that gear must be out of control. real plasterers could have sorted that job faster and better. who customer? ray charles.
First